Thanks for stopping by and watching the channel! If you are new here, please hit the SUBSCRIBE button! If you want to support the channel, you can check out our merch site here: yerkit-racing.myspreadshop.com/ Let me know in the comments what you are working on and any ideas you might have for future videos you would like to see...
This is by far the quickest, simplest and most pain free method! Only seen one other video like this. You can get distracted, take a break or what ever and you just never get lost or forget which cylinder you were working on. Thumbs up!!
So I just tried running 1.6 Sa scorpion rockers with my stock heads on my 95 LT1 and all the intake rocker tips were touching the retainers and locks due to the valve not sitting high enough above locks and retainers.. I'm going with 1.6 NSA COMP GOLDS ULTRA now. Are you running stock heads and valves?? I am using tick 650 dual springs with nsa valve locks.. I have a video on my page of what I'm talking about...
I was running these same 1.7 rockers on stock valves without any issues hitting retainers or locks. This time around I ported the heads and put in longer stainless valves to get proper install height and a little spring pressure. I have a couple videos up on the channel going over the setup on the valves and install heights one these heads... you can check it out here - ruclips.net/video/C0ijrNFE8GA/видео.html
I'm thinking about changing the valve springs in my car. Valves seem to float above 5800rpms No matter what we do we can't get it above 5800 without horrible cackling noises it goes pig rich and drops off. We gained 20hp just in tuning but can't break that 5800 wall. Why would my engine builder use 1.6 rockers on the intake and 1.5 on the exhaust? I can run 1.6 on all of them if I want to. I’m just not sure why he did what he did. He’s a hard guy to get ahold of or I would ask him. He built me a 383 stroker running “according to his Dyno” 500hp 520tq Cam 234/242 Intake cam lobe 374 with 1.6 rocker = 598 lift Exhaust cam lobe 382 with 1.5 rocker = 573 lift The heads have 205 intake 160 exhaust valve. Brodix Racerite 200 runner heads Using a comp roller cam and comp short travel hydraulic lifters. According to Comp the springs he used are too weak and that why my valves a floating at above 5800rmps So I’m planning on installing the right springs and a stud girdle and installing those ultra pro magnum roller rockers. Just not sure if I should change that set up from 1.6/1.5 to 1.6/1.6 my cam card recommends 1.5 all the way across. Oh and the heads “according to Brodix” are good for a 640 lift. Any explanation for that set up?
There are a few reasons I can think of at the moment... Springs won't allow for over .600 lift. Exhaust would be .611 with 1.6 rockers. If brodix is saying they are good to .640 then they should be good.... Another thing could be valve to piston clearance on the exhaust side. May have been too tight with 1.6 rr.... Could have done it in an attempt to "even" out the camshaft since its a split lift/duration with larger exhaust side. Really need to try and reach the builder for him to let you know why he decided to go that route.
These are not stock pushrods. They are one piece chromoly Trick Flow 7.100. I believe stock length is 7.200. When it was cam only stock length was good. Still have a set of chromoly 7.200 rods here too... I had to go to 7.100 to get the geometry right last time with the 1.7 ratio scorpion rockers. 7.070 rods would put it about perfect but I think these will be fine.
@@YerkitRacingChannel one question. I did mine with empty lifters…meaning no oil. Now that I’ve primed the oil system (oil comes out of every rocket arm) there is still ability to press into lifter 1/8 inch followed by recoil. Is this expected?
@@Se7enthsonSSIts normal for the lifters to bleed oil off when motor is cut off/oil pump stops spinning. That would let you be able to press the piston further down in the lifter. Are you able to push them down with oil pressure in the motor or did you try it after you stopped priming? Also what psi did you see while priming the motor?
@@YerkitRacingChannel no can’t press them at all with oil pressure. I had a lifter that wasn’t getting oil I’m the priming until I turned the crank over a few times. Once I did that everything was harder to press and rebounded well
Lifters should be fine then assuming the bodies weren't worn too bad and the bore clearance was within spec.. Sounds like the oil is just bleeding down once the oil pump isn't spinning... As long as all the pistons moved freely up and down in the lifter bodies. As far as oil getting through to the top slower than the rest may have been some slight build up in the lifter passages... I did a video on rebuilding my lifters as about half the pistons were stuck in the top of the bodies when I pulled them out the motor. On most of them it was hard to even tell what was binding them up. Doesn't take much trash at all to really bind the pistons and make them stop plunging or restrict the oil flow through them.
My theory when checking zero lash is twisting or up and down makes no difference. At the end of the day you have 40-60 thousands of hydraulic adjustment and the couple of thou difference in zero lash is undetectable to the engine operation. My preference is using up and down until I get the lash out then make the final by twisting with a very light grip. As soon as the oil squeezes out I can feel a definite drag. The biggest caution is making sure your socket isn't pushing down on the rocker ball or fulcrum to fool you. I learned the hard way and see people do this all of the time. Everyone can do what they want. Just saying how I do it and what I watch out for.
Thanks for stopping by and watching the channel! If you are new here, please hit the SUBSCRIBE button! If you want to support the channel, you can check out our merch site here: yerkit-racing.myspreadshop.com/
Let me know in the comments what you are working on and any ideas you might have for future videos you would like to see...
This is by far the quickest, simplest and most pain free method! Only seen one other video like this. You can get distracted, take a break or what ever and you just never get lost or forget which cylinder you were working on. Thumbs up!!
It really is nice to be able to leave it and come back to it without having to start over! Appreciate you watching and liking it!
@@YerkitRacingChannel does it have to be at tdc ?
@@devotedanaheim1575 valve just has to be closed. TDC is not required
Nice job man! I see where I messed up, your going to have me go back and redo mine.
Thanks man! Glad it helped you figure it out. I've used other the methods in the past too but this is just so simple
This is how I was taught to do it as well. Works everytime.
Yea, I did I the other way for so long... ishocksd at how simple this was.
Nice work!!! It's coming together and looking good!
Thanks Glenn! Appreciate the support!
Getting closer man! Them 3D printed blocks looking good too
Looking real nice man! I know a guy that does some pretty good work with a printer!
Those blocks do look awesome.
Fo sho!
We're your lifters dry? (Not soaked in oil)
Also where did you get the head studs I've been looking and I cannot find any
Just lightly oiled the lifters but not pumped. The head studs I used are speedmaster. ARP makes some too. Probably better but $$$.
So I just tried running 1.6 Sa scorpion rockers with my stock heads on my 95 LT1 and all the intake rocker tips were touching the retainers and locks due to the valve not sitting high enough above locks and retainers.. I'm going with 1.6 NSA COMP GOLDS ULTRA now. Are you running stock heads and valves?? I am using tick 650 dual springs with nsa valve locks.. I have a video on my page of what I'm talking about...
I was running these same 1.7 rockers on stock valves without any issues hitting retainers or locks. This time around I ported the heads and put in longer stainless valves to get proper install height and a little spring pressure. I have a couple videos up on the channel going over the setup on the valves and install heights one these heads... you can check it out here - ruclips.net/video/C0ijrNFE8GA/видео.html
I'm thinking about changing the valve springs in my car.
Valves seem to float above 5800rpms
No matter what we do we can't get it above 5800 without horrible cackling noises it goes pig rich and drops off.
We gained 20hp just in tuning but can't break that 5800 wall.
Why would my engine builder use 1.6 rockers on the intake and 1.5 on the exhaust?
I can run 1.6 on all of them if I want to.
I’m just not sure why he did what he did.
He’s a hard guy to get ahold of or I would ask him.
He built me a 383 stroker running “according to his Dyno” 500hp 520tq
Cam 234/242
Intake cam lobe 374 with 1.6 rocker = 598 lift
Exhaust cam lobe 382 with 1.5 rocker = 573 lift
The heads have 205 intake 160 exhaust valve.
Brodix Racerite 200 runner heads
Using a comp roller cam and comp short travel hydraulic lifters.
According to Comp the springs he used are too weak and that why my valves a floating at above 5800rmps
So I’m planning on installing the right springs and a stud girdle and installing those ultra pro magnum roller rockers.
Just not sure if I should change that set up from 1.6/1.5 to 1.6/1.6 my cam card recommends 1.5 all the way across.
Oh and the heads “according to Brodix” are good for a 640 lift.
Any explanation for that set up?
There are a few reasons I can think of at the moment... Springs won't allow for over .600 lift. Exhaust would be .611 with 1.6 rockers. If brodix is saying they are good to .640 then they should be good.... Another thing could be valve to piston clearance on the exhaust side. May have been too tight with 1.6 rr.... Could have done it in an attempt to "even" out the camshaft since its a split lift/duration with larger exhaust side. Really need to try and reach the builder for him to let you know why he decided to go that route.
So you are using stock push rods??? What consists of your build?
These are not stock pushrods. They are one piece chromoly Trick Flow 7.100. I believe stock length is 7.200.
When it was cam only stock length was good. Still have a set of chromoly 7.200 rods here too...
I had to go to 7.100 to get the geometry right last time with the 1.7 ratio scorpion rockers. 7.070 rods would put it about perfect but I think these will be fine.
Does it have to be at tdc? Before you get them to 0 lash?
No, the valve just has to be closed
Does this work on the big block w motors 348/409
Yeah, should work on all pushrod V8s with hydraulic lifters
This works perfect. EOIC takes forever and a day. If intake is off definitely this
Definitely saves a ton of time! Especially if you have to leave it and come back
@@YerkitRacingChannel one question. I did mine with empty lifters…meaning no oil. Now that I’ve primed the oil system (oil comes out of every rocket arm) there is still ability to press into lifter 1/8 inch followed by recoil. Is this expected?
@@Se7enthsonSSIts normal for the lifters to bleed oil off when motor is cut off/oil pump stops spinning. That would let you be able to press the piston further down in the lifter. Are you able to push them down with oil pressure in the motor or did you try it after you stopped priming? Also what psi did you see while priming the motor?
@@YerkitRacingChannel no can’t press them at all with oil pressure. I had a lifter that wasn’t getting oil I’m the priming until I turned the crank over a few times. Once I did that everything was harder to press and rebounded well
Lifters should be fine then assuming the bodies weren't worn too bad and the bore clearance was within spec.. Sounds like the oil is just bleeding down once the oil pump isn't spinning... As long as all the pistons moved freely up and down in the lifter bodies. As far as oil getting through to the top slower than the rest may have been some slight build up in the lifter passages... I did a video on rebuilding my lifters as about half the pistons were stuck in the top of the bodies when I pulled them out the motor. On most of them it was hard to even tell what was binding them up. Doesn't take much trash at all to really bind the pistons and make them stop plunging or restrict the oil flow through them.
Your engine looks like some beyblade colors 😅
haha
You were fitting to get a phone call about not at least double checking pushrod length 🤣 things coming on together.
😂 Needed to be done for sure lol Hopefully I'll have it licked up soon!
My theory when checking zero lash is twisting or up and down makes no difference. At the end of the day you have 40-60 thousands of hydraulic adjustment and the couple of thou difference in zero lash is undetectable to the engine operation. My preference is using up and down until I get the lash out then make the final by twisting with a very light grip. As soon as the oil squeezes out I can feel a definite drag. The biggest caution is making sure your socket isn't pushing down on the rocker ball or fulcrum to fool you. I learned the hard way and see people do this all of the time. Everyone can do what they want. Just saying how I do it and what I watch out for.
Thanks for watching and sharing your methods! definitely some good stuff to watch for