Rotating the engine twice ensures that zero lash is found by eventually tightening on the camshafts base circle. I can see how this technique is useful in a shop where distractions occur as well as the DIYer enthusiast at home in his or her garage were interruptions are likely. This procedure works for flat as well as hydraulic roller camshafts with stamped or roller rockers with or without lock nuts. Two thumb up.
This is Awesome! I saw this method on another video for a 350 hydraulic lifters non roller cam. I tried did it and wow engine fired right up first round; it made a believer out of me 😎
I love how you factored in the "getting interrupted" moment. I don’t recall ever building an engine start to finish, without being interrupted unless it’s on Christmas morning.
Good video. I'll be running my rockers after my freshly rebuilt big block started to choke and back fire a bit after only a few hours after the rebuild.
Getting ready to open up a pair of Gen 6 HP500 carbed motors to inspect lifters/springs. Do the lifter need to be dry or primed to use this method? By the way, that is a slick way to do it vs. the messy running motor oil going everywhere method LOL!
I've got a 351w where i did the valve adj. with the firing order, set the tdc on and on and now i can't even get the engine to idle...Very frustrating since I just spent a grand having timing set. Very frustrating for me...and it's always something for sure...
What keeps the adjuster nut from backing off and.. do you have a video for establishing push rod length? Building a 460 with aftermarket heads and I need some help with pushrod length. Thank you
There is an allen screw in the top of the adjustment nut he tightened. You just hold the adjustment nut in place and tighten the allen screw. Then you can put on the valve covers.
Not everyone uses poly locks, they might have a jam nut like in a stamped steel rocker arm. I left that out, I figure if you are buying roller rockers with a polly lock nut, you will lock them down!
I've got a 500 inch stroker bbc in my 70 chevelle it has Rhodes lifters in it and always has noise it drives me insane iv had 2 different people do a lash and still clicks and clacks gotta be something up !
What if the lifters still have oil in them cause you're just doing valve seals or something, not building or rebuilding an engine can this or other methods still be applied?
There is no need to tighten until the pushrod stops spinning right? I’ve noticed a lot of people doing that here on RUclips when doing 0 lash adjustment . I tried that method and it didn’t work .
That is correct. Only bring the jam nut down until there is zero up and down movement on the push rod. You will still be able to rotate the pushrod with your fingers.
I have one question, if you do not soak the lifters over night and it's a new built engine.. is it OK to start the the engine up with the lifters dry once all adjustments are made?
I'm sure this would work with a solid lifter cam by just using the feeler gauge and adjusting to your proper lash instead of zero someone chime in if you know thats correct?
In mine I just roll the rotor in the distributer around to just after the # cylinder firing and then did both intake and exhaust on that cylinder and just go through the firing order. I figure if it's supposed to fire at that spot the lifters have to be on the back side of the cam. With a motor on a stand like his I would do what he did but start at #1 and go around a quarter turn of the crank at a time doing each cylinder's lash until you get to all 8.
I adjusted all to half turn but still have 1 lifter on cylinder 1 that needs 1 1/2 turns in order for it to not knock. Builder says it's okay but I want to believe it's bad lifter
@@midmomarineservicesllc7187 ok. Thanks for replying. Now to figure out why we keep bending intake pushrods and there's no coil bind and has correct roller tip engagement.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all petrol stations to only one state operated central gas station per city. From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.
@@axleratio Not even close I own a classic car and wont be able to drive because these green chinese influenced pseudo save the climate morons here in Germany try to force me in electric
Germany has seen politicians get out of hand before. They must be reminded that they are supposed to represent the peoples opinion, not that their opinion is representative of the people. Big difference.
Rotating the engine twice ensures that zero lash is found by eventually tightening on the camshafts base circle. I can see how this technique is useful in a shop where distractions occur as well as the DIYer enthusiast at home in his or her garage were interruptions are likely. This procedure works for flat as well as hydraulic roller camshafts with stamped or roller rockers with or without lock nuts. Two thumb up.
Great method. I just did this on my big block C10 this morning. Worked like a champ and way easier than any method I’ve used in this past.
Glad it helped
This is Awesome! I saw this method on another video for a 350 hydraulic lifters non roller cam. I tried did it and wow engine fired right up first round; it made a believer out of me 😎
I love how you factored in the "getting interrupted" moment. I don’t recall ever building an engine start to finish, without being interrupted unless it’s on Christmas morning.
Does this work with any engine other than a marine engine? Also do you use the lock Allen nut to lock all of the nuts? I didn’t see you lock them.
Hi ..
Thanks 👍🏽 just did my valves on my BBC sound good ✌🏽
Good video. I'll be running my rockers after my freshly rebuilt big block started to choke and back fire a bit after only a few hours after the rebuild.
Thanks for the video and explanation!
Getting ready to open up a pair of Gen 6 HP500 carbed motors to inspect lifters/springs. Do the lifter need to be dry or primed to use this method? By the way, that is a slick way to do it vs. the messy running motor oil going everywhere method LOL!
This worked great on my bbc s10! Can I use this same method on a sbc?
Can this procedure be done if I have already soaked my hydraulic lifters in oil overnight?
Is that with roller lifters
Did you start at tdc or just where the engine happened to be?
The way he did it, I’d guess it wouldn’t matter too much but conditioning the first 2 valves he started with were closed I’d guess he started at tdc
You do not have to start at TDC but that's where I always start
Are the push rods supposed to spin when your done?
What if you forget to put the half turn and then prime engine. Can you go back and add half turn
Lock the poly locks!
I've got a 351w where i did the valve adj. with the firing order, set the tdc on and on and now i can't even get the engine to idle...Very frustrating since I just spent a grand having timing set. Very frustrating for me...and it's always something for sure...
What keeps the adjuster nut from backing off and.. do you have a video for establishing push rod length? Building a 460 with aftermarket heads and I need some help with pushrod length.
Thank you
I also don’t get that he said now you can fit the covers. There must be a locknut or grub screw to lock the adjuster in place.
There is an allen screw in the top of the adjustment nut he tightened. You just hold the adjustment nut in place and tighten the allen screw. Then you can put on the valve covers.
So my lifters were already ran on the engine. I just upgraded from stamped to full roller rockers. Does that change my preload
What about a locking nut?
Not everyone uses poly locks, they might have a jam nut like in a stamped steel rocker arm. I left that out, I figure if you are buying roller rockers with a polly lock nut, you will lock them down!
What happens if you turn a motor over and some of the rockets are too tight you loosen them back up a little bit
I've got a 500 inch stroker bbc in my 70 chevelle it has Rhodes lifters in it and always has noise it drives me insane iv had 2 different people do a lash and still clicks and clacks gotta be something up !
What if the lifters still have oil in them cause you're just doing valve seals or something, not building or rebuilding an engine can this or other methods still be applied?
you can still do it this way
I just did a head gasket can I used that same procedure
Yep
Must of got interrupted !
How do you plunge them in ??
Will this work if your running solid lifters?
No, you need to use feeler gauges and adjust to correct lash.
There is no need to tighten until the pushrod stops spinning right? I’ve noticed a lot of people doing that here on RUclips when doing 0 lash adjustment . I tried that method and it didn’t work .
That is correct. Only bring the jam nut down until there is zero up and down movement on the push rod. You will still be able to rotate the pushrod with your fingers.
@@midmomarineservicesllc7187 you didn't mentio the set screws... Do you have those tight before you start or do it at the end?
Will those rockers fit under stock valve covers
They will under stock Mercury Marine valve covers. The rockers are Crane gold series.
Of course. They're the old rockers. Never mind using new ones. That's how you do it when you've got a tackle box for a tool box.
If your using howard's max effort hydraulic roller lifters a 1/2 turn is to much about a 1/8 to 1/4 turn no more or valves will hang open .
I always go 1/4
What about on A solid roller cam shaft
You need know your hot and cold lash for your cam, this will not work.
Can this method be used on a used motor? Say if you’re upgrading rockers or springs?
problem there is if the lifters are pumped up with oil this really only works when there is no oil in the lifter
Can this adjustment procedure still work after the engine has run? The hydraulic lifters probably have oil in them already. Thanks
Yes preload is still the same
would be nice to know if you started at top dead center
You can start anywhere, but I like to start at TDC
I have one question, if you do not soak the lifters over night and it's a new built engine.. is it OK to start the the engine up with the lifters dry once all adjustments are made?
Yes, you are good!
Thanks for the question.
I needed that answer.
I would not fire up a newly built engine with it not being primed as running with no lubricant can do damage
What if you have roller lifters ?
I'm sure this would work with a solid lifter cam by just using the feeler gauge and adjusting to your proper lash instead of zero someone chime in if you know thats correct?
In mine I just roll the rotor in the distributer around to just after the # cylinder firing and then did both intake and exhaust on that cylinder and just go through the firing order. I figure if it's supposed to fire at that spot the lifters have to be on the back side of the cam. With a motor on a stand like his I would do what he did but start at #1 and go around a quarter turn of the crank at a time doing each cylinder's lash until you get to all 8.
Excellent
Thank you
I adjusted all to half turn but still have 1 lifter on cylinder 1 that needs 1 1/2 turns in order for it to not knock. Builder says it's okay but I want to believe it's bad lifter
Check your parts, push rod length is there deflection, is the rocker okay
Question
What if someone already let the lifters sit in oil overnight and installed cam. Is the adjustment any different?
If they just sat in oil and they were not "pumped up" It should be fine. You could always clean them up and get the oil out of them!
@@midmomarineservicesllc7187 ok. Thanks for replying. Now to figure out why we keep bending intake pushrods and there's no coil bind and has correct roller tip engagement.
@@juliodiaz8280 check your piston to valve clearance?
good info
Does this apply to hydraulic lifters with roller rockers installed
If you look closely, you will see that the engine he is using for demonstration is equipped with roller lifters and roller rockers.
HOW YOU DO IT WITH INTAKE ON ??
If they were solid lifters all you have to do is backem out the amount of lash and lockem down.
You forgot to lockem.
good call!
If that is a roller Cam You need to use a feeler gauge 24 on the intake and 26 on the Exhaust
Feeler gauges are not used when using hydraulic lifters , only when using solid lifters . It appears to be a roller cam but it's hydraulic .
By the way, what springs and lifters are you using in todays cheap imported world?
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025
on by reducing all petrol stations to only one state operated central gas
station per city. From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be
banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine
and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027
on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any
longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.
You must live next door to Greta
@@axleratio Not even close I own a classic car and wont be able to drive because these green chinese influenced pseudo save the climate morons here in Germany try to force me in electric
@@Schlipperschlopper I feel for you man. I drive one too.
Germany has seen politicians get out of hand before. They must be reminded that they are supposed to represent the peoples opinion, not that their opinion is representative of the people. Big difference.