WOW! Im sure we all appreciate your intention. But you went on and on about obvious things, for so long that I skipped forward. and then I skipped again. then again. Because of this it looked to me like you were just changing the shower head the way anybody with half a DIY brain could do... but you EXPLAINED it all like we were stupid.. Which we are so thanks. cut out EVERYTHING except the 15 seconds that are pertinent and you'd have been more helpful to us. I did go back and watch the whole thing, to see where the heck was the parts that I was looking for and found that nugget. well possible nugget if you are in a motel in CA.
Excellent explanations. There are governors on many things because we, in general and as a culture, tend to be very wasteful of precious resources, especially potable water and the energy to heat same. Just my two cents: always a good idea to place a couple of old towels, pile of rags, or an old fluffy blanket at the bottom of the tub or shower floor, to protect it from those wrench drops, scratches from shoes/boots etc. while doing repairs. And, I was taught that when using any tools to loosen or tighten any fitting, especially ones that are threaded and/or "tight quarters" -- place a thin, clean rag over the pipe and/or accessory BEFORE placing the slightly larger wrench, or pliers/channel locks jaws, around the connection, to keep from scratching, gouging [or worse]. This is especially important since 'modern' plumbing fixtures such shower heads and accessories are not strong metals as they have been for centuries, but rather thin, brittle or flimsy plastics, with even more shoddily coated finishes [often to make them fool the eye and appear to have a metal finish] and they are not very scratch resistant at all. Yes, it is always a good protocol to use 'Teflon' type thread tape, and only do "fingertip tight" initially when attaching a threaded component. And this is meant as stereotypical housewife [of which I am one] strength, not contractor strength, nor Ah-nold Schwarzenegger strength. Then, only tighten slightly in small increments until it holds a seal; no more. Have a silly story that this video reminded me of from long ago, as it involved my working for a doctor who did weightlifting/body building as a hobby [and yes, did look very much like Arnold - even his coloring, jawbones, massive muscles; all but the accent. The similar haircut was not intentional, but he did cause many double-takes when out in public. I was assembling a new cart to support some physical therapy machinery. I had gotten the skeletal structure put together, had only started the connections, and had not yet tightened any of the hardware, when I was interrupted for clinic business. When I returned to continue, the doctor had come in, thought he'd "help" me, and was in the middle of putting one of his mighty hand-tightenings onto the hardware -- just as I began to say "DON'T overtighen...!" when we both heard the shelf crack. Actually, with his patients [and animals, outside the practice], he was as gentle as could be; but with hardware, he did not know his own strength. He was embarrassed; I was exasperated. We did get a good laugh out of it shortly after that, but how could such a genius of a man do such a silly thing with his 'Konan'-like hands? Shaking my head - sigh... By the way, do you have any close-up videos showing how to install interior door locks such as for closet doors or interior room doors? These have actual keys, not the push-to-lock button, nor the twist-the little-thumb-latch to lock/unlock. If I have to hire a locksmith to do all these, it will cost a fortune - at least where I live; the complication: significant vision loss that is not correctable via different glasses nor a magnifying glass. Can't see 'normal' size printed material nor detail work, and have zero support. Any recommendations? Thank you in advance.
I watched this video unfortunately the frist part didn't work for you but did for me while I was youtubring my dad was stressing about it lol I came in and fixed it in second ty so much
You really need to change the name to “How to take a shower head off and put it right back on” there was no point to this whatsoever since it didn’t have the part you were wanting to show .
Im confused, I never saw what this dude did to correct the water pressure? Adding a chlorine filter? I re wound this twice..but honestly didnt sit through everything so maybe I missed it? So the first shower head is ditched (eco). Then he went to show how to install the new one (new tape) and then it went to a chlorine extra add on?? Where is the tip to remove the filter or water saver??? What type of shower head is to be used? Dont get this at all. Seems to me a plug for an unnecessary add on (maybe it does work, who knows) but to me adding an extra gadget to clean the water is only hampering the water flow more. Ugh. Useless video
Since we're advertising multibillion dollar industries, thoroughly chewed Bazooka Joe bubble gum works great as a substitute for plumbers tape. Shower Power! I kid... Thank you for the video. 😎👍
Do you have any hints on how to clean out a dryer vent and hose that is 20+ feet long? My gas dryer only heats for 10 minutes and then the heat cuts off, but the dryer continues to run.
hmmm, 1st thing that comes to mind would be a bendable object with a duster on the end and just ram it up there, or if possible to detach the house and take it outside and clean it that way. hopefully someone will see our comments and help us out:)
Cricket, is the 20- ft all in one continuous run? I rather doubt it as most of the flex dryer vent hoses are not THAT long continuously in residential settings that I've seen at the big-box stores, but I could be very wrong. Long flex hoses [in particular the white vinyl/plastic ones or the "JiffyPop Popcorn" thin aluminum foil style] on a dryer, are not the fire-safest, either, even if cleaned or replaced occasionally. They are against current code where I live. Does this 20 ft. vent hose stay all on one one floor, or perhaps go from basement to a ground level exit, or higher? Or a 2nd story bedroom or bathroom, to a ground level exit? True, there are vent brushes made, that are about the same diameter as a standard flex vent hose [4" ?] their bristles attached to a long metal flexible rod-like handle, that is either used manually, for shorter runs, or can be attached like a drill bit to a drill, and used to "roto-clean" out somewhat longer flex vents. Do you have anyone who can verify where the entire 20 ft. length runs, and in how many sections? I've watched This Old House fellows use a "thermal gun" to detect within walls where heat sources [or lack of them] are, just by pointing the 'gun' at a certain direction, and the screen glows different colors to detect air leaks, hot/cold spots, etc. That would be helpful to detect "invisible" symptoms. Do you have any HVAC/electrician/plumbing relatives or friends that would take some "temperature readings" for you? You're wise at getting this solved because it is a serious safety issue, not just an appliance or utility expense one. First consider the dryer itself. Here's my troubleshooting hat perspective. * Do the same symptoms apply no matter which dryer settings are used? Test dry the identical or very similar load of wet things, using EACH dryer setting, and note the symptoms associated. Are the symptoms the same, or different? If the dryer heats throughout the same size/type load of wet laundry on OTHER dry cycle settings, until the end, I'm guessing it is NOT an airflow problem, but something with your dryer -- such as the thermostat [trying to go out on THAT particular setting] and/or the moisture sensor, if your dryer has one. * If it heats each time at least for awhile, on at least one setting, it is probably NOT the heating element itself gone out. I've changed those on an electric dryer; not difficult - but getting access to it, is a total P.I.A. Especially without a second pair of hands to help. LOL *If the symptoms repeat on all possible dryer settings, then you might have an air flow problem, caused either by an obstruction, usually lint buildup, or "another thing" found its way into the ductwork or a break in the length of same that got in there but did not leave, if you get my drift. No bad smells? Probably just lint, or other errant 'objects' that got vented out, or crawled into the vent, down the line between the back of the dryer and the outside exit, if there was a disconnection in the vent somewhere. The "usual suspect" is at the bottom of the dryer, where the vent/duct first exits the dryer; then at every bend/turn of the dryer duct/hose. Those can become dislodged for several reasons and must be reconnected; it's a good time/opportunity to clean those segments, or replace them [ might be easier/no more expensive overall to replace than cleanor no more expensive ] -- depending... Now if you test the same or similar wet laundry and the dryer has different symptoms, it may be the thermostat [and/or component that does the moisture detector, if it has one] causing problems, and may need replacing, and may not be an air flow issue, although YES it is VERY important to keep all vents and ducts free from obstructions, ESPECIALLY LINT [huge fire hazard] !!!.
Its funny my cuzzin came over to my apartment last week and he took a shower and was amazed by my pressure, i have a standard 2.0gpm $10 showerhead, and i took out the RESTRICTOR, and my pressure increased 5x fold... But he will never know
*You told people to wind the teflon tape the WRONG WAY !! You ALWAYS wrap the tape Clockwise facing the pipe... If you wrap it to the left it can unravel and leak and bunch up when screwing on the shower head! Please dont make videos if you dont know what your doing... This is why Plumbers are Licensed...*
So... whole purpose of video and no real example. Fail. Maybe check before you make the video considering this is a 1 minute check inside the shower head and plumbing. Lol
maybe just like save water since we’re running out? like just deal with having a little weak water pressure? no? it was put there for a reason lol why do humans have to be so wasteful
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WOW! Im sure we all appreciate your intention. But you went on and on about obvious things, for so long that I skipped forward. and then I skipped again. then again. Because of this it looked to me like you were just changing the shower head the way anybody with half a DIY brain could do... but you EXPLAINED it all like we were stupid.. Which we are so thanks. cut out EVERYTHING except the 15 seconds that are pertinent and you'd have been more helpful to us. I did go back and watch the whole thing, to see where the heck was the parts that I was looking for and found that nugget. well possible nugget if you are in a motel in CA.
When using Teflon thread tape you really don't want to wrap more then a half overlap, more of a single wrap around, too much can actually cause leaks.
the teflon tape varies in thickness extremely from roll to roll, so overlap #s change significantly
Excellent explanations. There are governors on many things because we, in general and as a culture, tend to be very wasteful of precious resources, especially potable water and the energy to heat same.
Just my two cents: always a good idea to place a couple of old towels, pile of rags, or an old fluffy blanket at the bottom of the tub or shower floor, to protect it from those wrench drops, scratches from shoes/boots etc. while doing repairs.
And, I was taught that when using any tools to loosen or tighten any fitting, especially ones that are threaded and/or "tight quarters" -- place a thin, clean rag over the pipe and/or accessory BEFORE placing the slightly larger wrench, or pliers/channel locks jaws, around the connection, to keep from scratching, gouging [or worse]. This is especially important since 'modern' plumbing fixtures such shower heads and accessories are not strong metals as they have been for centuries, but rather thin, brittle or flimsy plastics, with even more shoddily coated finishes [often to make them fool the eye and appear to have a metal finish] and they are not very scratch resistant at all.
Yes, it is always a good protocol to use 'Teflon' type thread tape, and only do "fingertip tight" initially when attaching a threaded component. And this is meant as stereotypical housewife [of which I am one] strength, not contractor strength, nor Ah-nold Schwarzenegger strength. Then, only tighten slightly in small increments until it holds a seal; no more.
Have a silly story that this video reminded me of from long ago, as it involved my working for a doctor who did weightlifting/body building as a hobby [and yes, did look very much like Arnold - even his coloring, jawbones, massive muscles; all but the accent. The similar haircut was not intentional, but he did cause many double-takes when out in public.
I was assembling a new cart to support some physical therapy machinery. I had gotten the skeletal structure put together, had only started the connections, and had not yet tightened any of the hardware, when I was interrupted for clinic business. When I returned to continue, the doctor had come in, thought he'd "help" me, and was in the middle of putting one of his mighty hand-tightenings onto the hardware -- just as I began to say "DON'T overtighen...!" when we both heard the shelf crack. Actually, with his patients [and animals, outside the practice], he was as gentle as could be; but with hardware, he did not know his own strength. He was embarrassed; I was exasperated. We did get a good laugh out of it shortly after that, but how could such a genius of a man do such a silly thing with his 'Konan'-like hands? Shaking my head - sigh...
By the way, do you have any close-up videos showing how to install interior door locks such as for closet doors or interior room doors? These have actual keys, not the push-to-lock button, nor the twist-the little-thumb-latch to lock/unlock. If I have to hire a locksmith to do all these, it will cost a fortune - at least where I live; the complication: significant vision loss that is not correctable via different glasses nor a magnifying glass. Can't see 'normal' size printed material nor detail work, and have zero support. Any recommendations? Thank you in advance.
awesome info thank you:)
The water filter thingy that you speak of is an aerator and it is always on the shower head jagoff...
If I had that pressure you showed at the start I would be very happy. Nothing wrong with that.
You win the most uninformative video of the day away 🏆
I watched this video unfortunately the frist part didn't work for you but did for me while I was youtubring my dad was stressing about it lol I came in and fixed it in second ty so much
You really need to change the name to “How to take a shower head off and put it right back on” there was no point to this whatsoever since it didn’t have the part you were wanting to show .
Your first before water pressure was very strong already!!!
I have the Sprite filter, single user after only a month of use I have NO water pressure!!!! What do I need to do?!?!?!
So, change your shower head? Thanks.
Im confused, I never saw what this dude did to correct the water pressure? Adding a chlorine filter? I re wound this twice..but honestly didnt sit through everything so maybe I missed it? So the first shower head is ditched (eco). Then he went to show how to install the new one (new tape) and then it went to a chlorine extra add on?? Where is the tip to remove the filter or water saver??? What type of shower head is to be used? Dont get this at all. Seems to me a plug for an unnecessary add on (maybe it does work, who knows) but to me adding an extra gadget to clean the water is only hampering the water flow more. Ugh. Useless video
100K views. He's an expert!!!
So if your shower head does have a filter it’s an eco performance head, therefore dump it and buy a new one
Karen Luce he basically just said change your shower head...
Doesn't the chlorine filter reduce the water pressure?
Yes, it does.
Since we're advertising multibillion dollar industries, thoroughly chewed Bazooka Joe bubble gum works great as a substitute for plumbers tape. Shower Power!
I kid... Thank you for the video. 😎👍
Do you have any hints on how to clean out a dryer vent and hose that is 20+ feet long? My gas dryer only heats for 10 minutes and then the heat cuts off, but the dryer continues to run.
hmmm, 1st thing that comes to mind would be a bendable object with a duster on the end and just ram it up there, or if possible to detach the house and take it outside and clean it that way. hopefully someone will see our comments and help us out:)
Cricket, is the 20- ft all in one continuous run? I rather doubt it as most of the flex dryer vent hoses are not THAT long continuously in residential settings that I've seen at the big-box stores, but I could be very wrong.
Long flex hoses [in particular the white vinyl/plastic ones or the "JiffyPop Popcorn" thin aluminum foil style] on a dryer, are not the fire-safest, either, even if cleaned or replaced occasionally. They are against current code where I live.
Does this 20 ft. vent hose stay all on one one floor, or perhaps go from basement to a ground level exit, or higher? Or a 2nd story bedroom or bathroom, to a ground level exit?
True, there are vent brushes made, that are about the same diameter as a standard flex vent hose [4" ?] their bristles attached to a long metal flexible rod-like handle, that is either used manually, for shorter runs, or can be attached like a drill bit to a drill, and used to "roto-clean" out somewhat longer flex vents.
Do you have anyone who can verify where the entire 20 ft. length runs, and in how many sections?
I've watched This Old House fellows use a "thermal gun" to detect within walls where heat sources [or lack of them] are, just by pointing the 'gun' at a certain direction, and the screen glows different colors to detect air leaks, hot/cold spots, etc. That would be helpful to detect "invisible" symptoms.
Do you have any HVAC/electrician/plumbing relatives or friends that would take some "temperature readings" for you?
You're wise at getting this solved because it is a serious safety issue, not just an appliance or utility expense one.
First consider the dryer itself. Here's my troubleshooting hat perspective.
* Do the same symptoms apply no matter which dryer settings are used?
Test dry the identical or very similar load of wet things, using EACH dryer setting, and note the symptoms associated. Are the symptoms the same, or different?
If the dryer heats throughout the same size/type load of wet laundry on OTHER dry cycle settings, until the end, I'm guessing it is NOT an airflow problem, but something with your dryer -- such as the thermostat [trying to go out on THAT particular setting] and/or the moisture sensor, if your dryer has one.
* If it heats each time at least for awhile, on at least one setting, it is probably NOT the heating element itself gone out. I've changed those on an electric dryer; not difficult - but getting access to it, is a total P.I.A. Especially without a second pair of hands to help. LOL
*If the symptoms repeat on all possible dryer settings, then you might have an air flow problem, caused either by an obstruction, usually lint buildup, or "another thing" found its way into the ductwork or a break in the length of same that got in there but did not leave, if you get my drift.
No bad smells? Probably just lint, or other errant 'objects' that got vented out, or crawled into the vent, down the line between the back of the dryer and the outside exit, if there was a disconnection in the vent somewhere.
The "usual suspect" is at the bottom of the dryer, where the vent/duct first exits the dryer; then at every bend/turn of the dryer duct/hose. Those can become dislodged for several reasons and must be reconnected; it's a good time/opportunity to clean those segments, or replace them [ might be easier/no more expensive overall to replace than cleanor no more expensive ] -- depending...
Now if you test the same or similar wet laundry and the dryer has different symptoms, it may be the thermostat [and/or component that does the moisture detector, if it has one] causing problems, and may need replacing, and may not be an air flow issue, although YES it is VERY important to keep all vents and ducts free from obstructions, ESPECIALLY LINT [huge fire hazard] !!!.
This is pretty old, but a plumber's snake is your best best
Its funny my cuzzin came over to my apartment last week and he took a shower and was amazed by my pressure, i have a standard 2.0gpm $10 showerhead, and i took out the RESTRICTOR, and my pressure increased 5x fold... But he will never know
Didn’t help after took that out
What is the neme of this shower ? How i can get it?
dat moment when the low pressure is highere than your higher pressure so you are screwed
Wow what an underrated channel, great video.
Isn't Castile soap inherently vegan?
Thanks for the informative video. Great job.
It's pronounced moe en like Moe from the three stooges and then en Moen - moe en. it's a name not an acronym....
Plays with tap for 3/4 of the movie... skips to finished shower changes.. wut..
Um.... Wouldn't it better to just remove the water flow restricter valves?!
😒
You didn't really show anything you just replace the shower head
Too longwinded my goodness
That would be MOEN not MOEH fool.
Video would have been better if he was taking a shower while explaining.
So long winded...gosh
*You told people to wind the teflon tape the WRONG WAY !! You ALWAYS wrap the tape Clockwise facing the pipe... If you wrap it to the left it can unravel and leak and bunch up when screwing on the shower head! Please dont make videos if you dont know what your doing... This is why Plumbers are Licensed...*
Not sure what you're smoking but minute mark 4:59 clearly shows him installing the teflon tape correctly.
So... whole purpose of video and no real example. Fail. Maybe check before you make the video considering this is a 1 minute check inside the shower head and plumbing. Lol
How To Increase Your Shower Water Pressure!! .... install a water pump!!!!
Wasted time. Nothing done here outside of replacing the head.
Monkey pliers🤔
25 mill little big but I’ll continue using it, but probably a 24 mill🤦🏼♂️
Tf is wrong with this guy?
Oh and the plumbers tape...🙄
что это такое?
You really talk to much omg
Too much talking for such an easy job
You lost me at vegan soap
Sucks
Poor video
M-O-E-H really? You can’t read? Or edit your video? Or stay on topic?
Ths is a Waster of time. Thumbs down. If you are going to make a video to INCREASE shower pressure, then make a useful video, not crap like this.
After he didn't even know it's MOEN I had to quit watching this garbage
maybe just like save water since we’re running out? like just deal with having a little weak water pressure? no? it was put there for a reason lol why do humans have to be so wasteful