Just found this video, and must say the process is very much like what I followed for my LY9B Brilliant Black 1996 Audi B5 1.8T which had many small paint chips and scratches, hundreds of chips were on the side skirts. After wax and grease removal, and fine sanding inside the scratches to get a key. Using a fine brush and a fine syringe, patiently adding coats and letting each dry overnight, until raised above the surrounding area, before levelling. I used a slightly different tool for levelling. Tungsten-Carbide-Denibbing-Blade-Tool The final coat I mixed clear coat with the black. Waited a week or more before buffing. Small dents were repaired using PDR techniques, learned from numerous RUclips presentations. Following now 👍 saved!
You must have good patience and skill. I have an A3 in black is terrible paint condition, bird poo damage has etched the top coat in numerous places and one place has been badly rubbed down to the metal, also one side has been keyed and badly touched up. I got lots to do to save this paint and I'm not affording a full repaint.
@Pure-Luck447 I think the stone chips in the clear are the source of delamination, as water can freeze, much like "onion-skin" weathering of stone. When the clear top coat paint has become powdery white, begun to peel and delaminate, it's time to sand back to the base coat and begin again with a complete paint system. Solid colours are much easier than metallics, that's for sure. Black is probably one of the most challenging colours, because it reflects much like a mirror.
I bought this today after watching your videos. I redid my paint dabber work with your squeegee technique and couldn't believe how well it worked. for some reason a bondo spreader would pull it up after but the razor worked like a charm. I like this technique because I have very little clear to work with (I already burned through in a few spots so it's not gonna be perfect by any means) but I figured I could learn on this and save what I have left. Eventually I'll respray the car but for now this will look great.
I stared detailing at 14 I'm 60 now keep up the good work. For some times its hard to gat a customer to under stand this takes time LOL. "why cant I have it at end of day?" """" We are not a scratch and shin if you wont that go down the street"""""
sve jasno,,postavio sam ti pitanje u vezi miješanja boje i hertera s lakom,,sad vidim kako si to uradio!! Hvala na videu i mirnoj ruci te iznad svega strpljivosti bez koje nema uspjeha! Sve se vidiš može i bitno je sačuvati tvornički lak makar popravak koštao i cijenu lakiranja,,sretno
I’m a newcomer to your channel here. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. So very helpful and informative! I’ve already purchased a Mini-File for a couple of projects I have. Major props on the extremely high quality camera work btw!
I use Festool Spot Repair Scraper from 3M, i can shave the excess touch up paint to be level. I sand it, everything looks perfect, but after polishing i can see, that the touch up paint is lower than the original paint. It looks like while i polish it (maybe from the heat) it shrinks. I don't know. I use of course 2K paint with 2 days drying time.
Same. Very frustrating cuz on a horizontal panel like a door, I either have to leave a slight edge to the paint so that I dont diminish the paint within the cavity, or I level it flush and seemingly always leave a slight divot in the touch up after polishing. Very frustrating
@@poleypops I think this is because 2 days is not enough for a single deep paint application to dry correctly. The paint is much deeper when doing a scratch repair than the original application. I think it needs to dry much longer, or use multiple thinner layers to make it dry quicker.
Why can you not use soapy water when using file ?. Great result you achieved. I'd like to try this out but I get nervous and feel I might stuff up. Graeme in OZ
Pure skill. Great channel. I am not to the point where I could use that file, but I am pretty good with a small piece of 800. I can hold it to the round of my finger and can feel the ridge as I am knocking it down. I might try this file.
Very much enjoy your scratch fixing because it's unfortunately such a common occurrence these days. That's why I only buy white cars, to see the scratches less, but people still can key them. I bought a Mika fine scraper to try out. My dad suffered for years with a huge scratch that he self painted on his new MB. You could've saved it, but he finally let some 3rd rate shop repaint it and it was awful. I never forgot how much he hated it. Thank you.
I made a bunch of scratches with it, it's really hard to use on concave parts of a car. Even convex parts are hard... I hope I'll be able to remove most of them with polish compound.
I am totally amazed at your work. I got the Mirka file and the other tools I need. Please tell me, after the 2000 grit sanding, what compound level did you use to polish? thank you so much
Exactly my thoughts. After he had tidied up with the 4000g sandpaper he most likely used a medium compound/polish and a soft buffing cloth to bring up the shine and remove any burs or hazing.
Great video and excellent presentation of the whole process! You now have another fan and follower! I learned a lot from this video and I would say it is very helpful for people like me without experience and knowledge. Thank you for having you! I don't have any experience with this and as an enthusiast, I have made a lot of messes on the bonnet of my car ,trying to fix the numerous paint chips. I bought light blue sapphire paint from a specialized store, which was prepared for me according to the manufacturer's paint number, but the paint is lighter than the original color of the car, which is normal and there is a big and visible difference. My question is what color should I add and use to adjust the lightness of the new paint to match the new and old as best as possible? From the information in your video and looking for the logic, the color that should work is black. Surely you know better than I me, and I'd appreciate it if you could help me sort out my own mess! Thank you again and all the best!
all light colors are difficult to do so that they are not noticed, dark colors are done 90 percent all light colors when applied by hand turn dark and then you have a difference in shade, so I don't work on those colors because it's impossible to do them without being visible
Hi. I would like to ask you why you use a Mirka mini file not to a "shark tooth"? Is it better or easier to use? I want to buy one of them but I'm an amateur. So it is good to have an advise from sobebody who use this.
Hello, my friend, do not be bored, can I ask what is the best alternative to Mirka Mini to remove extra edges, which means what tool can be used instead of Mirka Mini?
@ Amd detailing - Hope you don't mind me asking but what happens if you don't apply hardener? Can you still mix clear coat and base coat together only?
Is the basecoat waterborne or solvent? Whenever i use "scratches happen" paint and mix it in with 2k clear it seems to break up and not incorporate how it should...
Great stuff.. One question please Here you used silver to get the blue lighter What Colour would you use for say green.. Black.. Red... Grey?.. Some paints you used hardener only.. Here you used both clear and hardener.. Please explain Again wonderful work
you should light your paint with the silver or pearl that is used to mix the color, ask the person who sold/mixed you paint. acrylic coat uses hardener and doesnt need clear coat, but (I think) only possible with solic colors (non metallic or pearl) base coat, naturally doesnt use hardener, but he puts into clear coat, then it needs hardener. I hope I could help you, my english is just terrible
With this tool you only take off the excess paint and don't touch the good paint. With sandpaper you take off paint from the surrounding area so sometimes you can burn through.
Baš sam je naručio danas radi ovog videa 😁 da pitam, jel bi mi bilo bolje stavit krep traku s obje strane 1cm od ogrebotine da izbjegnem ulaženje u zdravi lak?
I don´t get it, what kind of base coat is this? I guess it´s solvent paint? But i never know you could get solvent base coat with metallics? Or is this really waterborne paint mixed with clearcoat??? I´m confused :D From what brand do you buy your Paint? Sikkens,PPG, Glasurit? thx
Wait, why did you stop? Did you remove the paint with the little tool then yo switch to regular sandpaper? And what about other rights? The coat, the polish
Great technical video, but your narrator is very patronizing infantile and not very good at his job. I think he’s trying to be a comedian and I think he’ll do a great job as a comedian.
skipped the entire polishing process. dont believe it. theres a reason metallic basecoats and clearcoat are applied separately as the metallics sink to the bottom and sit on the wrong flip,hense u get touch up bottles of colour and clear separately. also as a professional painter for the last 30 years as sein on my channel, i could have prepped the scratch and the rest of the doors in about 15 minutes,blended and baked in about another 15 minutes to a showroom condition. not the above process in unsanded,unprepared paint.people will just be wasting there time with this.
Yea let's just do a half ass job respraying and panels on a brand new Porsche without removing any of the trim or mouldings, handles, etc... so that a month down the road not only has your brand new car had thr whole side resprayed with tape lines on everything, but it now shows the bonus flaking of Clearcoat on all the edges! Sounds way better to me then just touching it up to hide it...... 😆 I hate seeing and having to work on nice almost brand new cars come in with half ass paint work done on them, and having to go over it. It's a nightmare. Now since let's say thr door got dented or something and a real shop was fixing it, we would remove everything like you're supposed to. However, since head RUclips painter decided to quickly paint the car taping it off, we now have to sand and feather the edges that were created by doing so. Which usually ends up in burning thru some spots and having to spay basecoat to cover those spots now. Now we have way more time and money trying to fix the previous job and will have baseoat in a bunch of spots where it should have never needed to be worrying about the color matching as well! I think I'll go with touching it up to hide it instead
@@1bugeyedrex yeh ok mate🤣 in an ideal world you would strip away… unless you are gonna charge the customer to strip there car to bits in time and labour then that’s fine. Can guarantee you, a professional painter has no tape lines or any of the above nonsense ur talking about. Not where I come from anyway. What your basically saying is every smart repair guy out there is a cowboy because that’s exactly what they do!! Not only that they blend clearcoat out mid panel. Am sure you will also have something to say about that? That’s because whoever has done it has done a shit job of it.. again,not in my world. Waste your time with this if you like.
Just found this video, and must say the process is very much like what I followed for my LY9B Brilliant Black 1996 Audi B5 1.8T which had many small paint chips and scratches, hundreds of chips were on the side skirts. After wax and grease removal, and fine sanding inside the scratches to get a key. Using a fine brush and a fine syringe, patiently adding coats and letting each dry overnight, until raised above the surrounding area, before levelling. I used a slightly different tool for levelling. Tungsten-Carbide-Denibbing-Blade-Tool The final coat I mixed clear coat with the black. Waited a week or more before buffing. Small dents were repaired using PDR techniques, learned from numerous RUclips presentations. Following now 👍 saved!
I'm glad you solved your problem
You must have good patience and skill. I have an A3 in black is terrible paint condition, bird poo damage has etched the top coat in numerous places and one place has been badly rubbed down to the metal, also one side has been keyed and badly touched up. I got lots to do to save this paint and I'm not affording a full repaint.
@Pure-Luck447 I think the stone chips in the clear are the source of delamination, as water can freeze, much like "onion-skin" weathering of stone. When the clear top coat paint has become powdery white, begun to peel and delaminate, it's time to sand back to the base coat and begin again with a complete paint system. Solid colours are much easier than metallics, that's for sure. Black is probably one of the most challenging colours, because it reflects much like a mirror.
@@DirkOz appreciate the feedback 🙏 keep learning.
Vw gang 2000 passat wagon im rippin
I bought this today after watching your videos. I redid my paint dabber work with your squeegee technique and couldn't believe how well it worked. for some reason a bondo spreader would pull it up after but the razor worked like a charm. I like this technique because I have very little clear to work with (I already burned through in a few spots so it's not gonna be perfect by any means) but I figured I could learn on this and save what I have left. Eventually I'll respray the car but for now this will look great.
@@30YearOldBunta painting cars properly is a long meticulous and expensive process so learning to save paint is very valuable
I stared detailing at 14 I'm 60 now keep up the good work. For some times its hard to gat a customer to under stand this takes time LOL. "why cant I have it at end of day?" """" We are not a scratch and shin if you wont that go down the street"""""
yes you are right, but again be satisfied because they painted the entire panel and preserved the original color
Actually did it myself like this and results are great. Only tricky thing is matching the colors of metallics
sve jasno,,postavio sam ti pitanje u vezi miješanja boje i hertera s lakom,,sad vidim kako si to uradio!! Hvala na videu i mirnoj ruci te iznad svega strpljivosti bez koje nema uspjeha! Sve se vidiš može i bitno je sačuvati tvornički lak makar popravak koštao i cijenu lakiranja,,sretno
I’m a newcomer to your channel here. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. So very helpful and informative! I’ve already purchased a Mini-File for a couple of projects I have. Major props on the extremely high quality camera work btw!
Tnx my friend end enjoy
Amazing job... As a beginner in detailing i've learnt so much from you. Thank you, best wishes.
Tnx,subscribe and enjoy😉
@@Amddetailingwas that acrylic pant an hardener an gloss that u used for the repair
*13:45** Can you do a tape mask around the repair to lessen those issues?*
Yes and no. Tape is around 0.002 thick, so you're not getting the full benefit of the tool.
Some people who think they can damage a car because they cannot afford one how simple minded are they.Great clip
Amazing job and excellent video. Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge with the world. 👍
Tnx and enjoy
bravo brate merak mi je gledati tvoja videa samo napred
Hvala
I use Festool Spot Repair Scraper from 3M, i can shave the excess touch up paint to be level. I sand it, everything looks perfect, but after polishing i can see, that the touch up paint is lower than the original paint. It looks like while i polish it (maybe from the heat) it shrinks. I don't know. I use of course 2K paint with 2 days drying time.
Same. Very frustrating cuz on a horizontal panel like a door, I either have to leave a slight edge to the paint so that I dont diminish the paint within the cavity, or I level it flush and seemingly always leave a slight divot in the touch up after polishing. Very frustrating
Did you find out how to avoid this?
@@poleypops I think this is because 2 days is not enough for a single deep paint application to dry correctly. The paint is much deeper when doing a scratch repair than the original application. I think it needs to dry much longer, or use multiple thinner layers to make it dry quicker.
@@laszlorogacs1925 what grit did you use to sand it down?
Why can you not use soapy water when using file ?.
Great result you achieved.
I'd like to try this out but I get nervous and feel I might stuff up.
Graeme in OZ
Pure skill. Great channel. I am not to the point where I could use that file, but I am pretty good with a small piece of 800. I can hold it to the round of my finger and can feel the ridge as I am knocking it down. I might try this file.
try my friend is the best tool
This Mirka tool is quite expensive so i just cut one of my file with fine grade and works great.
the tool is never expensive because it brings you profit
Every time is pleasure to see and learn from you,your job is miracle
Tnx friend and enjoy
Very much enjoy your scratch fixing because it's unfortunately such a common occurrence these days. That's why I only buy white cars, to see the scratches less, but people still can key them. I bought a Mika fine scraper to try out. My dad suffered for years with a huge scratch that he self painted on his new MB. You could've saved it, but he finally let some 3rd rate shop repaint it and it was awful. I never forgot how much he hated it. Thank you.
Tnx friend
Hi, great job. Anycase, it would be great to get a list of all stuff you use to use case by case, and were to buy it. Thank you!
Awesome job mate 👍
I made a bunch of scratches with it, it's really hard to use on concave parts of a car. Even convex parts are hard...
I hope I'll be able to remove most of them with polish compound.
Попробуй каттер Festool, будет меньше царапин
@@ghjfgvvnhh7658 Guy said it in english why you talk ur language piderast?!
@@ghjfgvvnhh7658 tell me more please
AMAZING job ……again 👏👏👏🤩🤩
Tnx my friend
@@Amddetailing What was the total hours it took for you to put it right ?
what if we taped the surroundings before we use the file?
Another great how-to video! Thanks.
wonderful video.. BUT... You're singing... oh dear... 😂. Thanks for posting this video... excellent stuff.!
Hahahahah tnx you and enjoy
Which silver did you take for metallic effect?
is the paint and clear coat from the same manufacturer? or does it not matter? color normal basecoat?
Great question. Also I want to add if that UVclear works with any paint? Thanks.
Yes ,work any paint
Truly awesome 👏
Super travail cher confrère 😉 et merci pour le partage 👍
I am totally amazed at your work. I got the Mirka file and the other tools I need. Please tell me, after the 2000 grit sanding, what compound level did you use to polish? thank you so much
I use Ewocar product
What is better the mirla mini file or the festoon carbide blade. Thanks.
Both are good depending on the need
There is missing gap between afyer sanding with 2000 grit and suddenly everything complete
Can u explain the clear coat, polish, etc process?
Exactly my thoughts. After he had tidied up with the 4000g sandpaper he most likely used a medium compound/polish and a soft buffing cloth to bring up the shine and remove any burs or hazing.
Great video and excellent presentation of the whole process!
You now have another fan and follower!
I learned a lot from this video and I would say it is very helpful for people like me without experience and knowledge.
Thank you for having you!
I don't have any experience with this and as an enthusiast,
I have made a lot of messes on the bonnet of my car ,trying to fix the numerous paint chips.
I bought light blue sapphire paint from a specialized store, which was prepared for me according to the manufacturer's paint number, but the paint is lighter than the original color of the car, which is normal and there is a big and visible difference.
My question is what color should I add and use to adjust the lightness of the new paint to match the new and old as best as possible?
From the information in your video and looking for the logic, the color that should work is black.
Surely you know better than I me, and I'd appreciate it if you could help me sort out my own mess!
Thank you again and all the best!
all light colors are difficult to do so that they are not noticed, dark colors are done 90 percent
all light colors when applied by hand turn dark and then you have a difference in shade, so I don't work on those colors because it's impossible to do them without being visible
How does this compare with something like the POWER-TEC file?
With silver cars it svery hard to use this method.
Good job sir
Hi. I would like to ask you why you use a Mirka mini file not to a "shark tooth"? Is it better or easier to use? I want to buy one of them but I'm an amateur. So it is good to have an advise from sobebody who use this.
it is a very good tool but also very dangerous for the paint, a little carelessness and you can damage the bodywork on the vehicle
@@Amddetailing You mean the shark tooth. Right? So I understand for garage works this mini file is better.
awesome job
✨👌🏻🔥🔥🔥 svaka cast!
You are a master! 😎
Tnx my friend
Hello, my friend, do not be bored, can I ask what is the best alternative to Mirka Mini to remove extra edges, which means what tool can be used instead of Mirka Mini?
Hi thank you again for these videos. Let me ask you again when you should use the Shark Blade or the Festool carbide blade. Which is better?
both serve their purpose and both are ok if you know how to use them
Thank you so much! What grade sandpaper did you use at the end? Please let me know. Your video is gratefully helping me out.
2000 grid
wow awesome job. Do you a video on paint chips?
Can you use the file on a bumper with touch up paint?
Попробуй UV лак от Car System и работай каттером Festool.
Hi there! I need to light my paint, what kind of silver do I have to buy?
@ Amd detailing - Hope you don't mind me asking but what happens if you don't apply hardener? Can you still mix clear coat and base coat together only?
it can't do without hardener, just the name tells you, it will never harden without it
Understood, thank you!@@Amddetailing
Good job 👍
How does this compare to the Mirka shark blade?
Have you ever tried using that metal block with water. ?
The only think I have differently with is mixing the paint, clear coat and or the hardner. I have a apline white bmw.
Great job.
Jel se dobije isti rezultat ako umjesto Mirka proizvoda sa brus papirom P1000 brusis visak boje ? Lp
Ne dobije
Onde comprar essa ferramenta no Brasil ?
Which product u show after the colour?before the hardener?
Thanks a loot
Clearcoat
Is the basecoat waterborne or solvent? Whenever i use "scratches happen" paint and mix it in with 2k clear it seems to break up and not incorporate how it should...
Always use solvent base for minor repairs bro.
Great stuff..
One question please
Here you used silver to get the blue lighter
What Colour would you use for say green.. Black.. Red... Grey?..
Some paints you used hardener only.. Here you used both clear and hardener..
Please explain
Again wonderful work
you should light your paint with the silver or pearl that is used to mix the color, ask the person who sold/mixed you paint.
acrylic coat uses hardener and doesnt need clear coat, but (I think) only possible with solic colors (non metallic or pearl)
base coat, naturally doesnt use hardener, but he puts into clear coat, then it needs hardener.
I hope I could help you, my english is just terrible
@@Czaf182 .thank you for the kind response
Yes .most appreciated
Great Job but why is it better to use this file instead of sandpaper? Thanks
With this tool you only take off the excess paint and don't touch the good paint. With sandpaper you take off paint from the surrounding area so sometimes you can burn through.
exactly😉😉😉
because if you use only 2000 grit paper, you can be sure, you will sand through the clearcoat while you try to sand off the touch up paint "mountain".
Sounds good, thanks for the good content !!
You have an explanation in some of the previous videos
gr8 video, thanks
what polishing compound did u use please?
Ewocar
@@Amddetailing thanks
great video
Where do you find the tool used to fill the scratch with paint? Or how did you make it?
ebay
@@Amddetailing thank you and what did you call it ?
Hello,
What is the syringe/needle where he puts on the paint on called?
Kind regards,
Jasper
Omg amazing
Tnx bro
"Drippy thingy" is called an eye dropper.
Baš sam je naručio danas radi ovog videa 😁 da pitam, jel bi mi bilo bolje stavit krep traku s obje strane 1cm od ogrebotine da izbjegnem ulaženje u zdravi lak?
Sa ovim tesko da mozes dirnuti fabricki lak
I don´t get it, what kind of base coat is this? I guess it´s solvent paint? But i never know you could get solvent base coat with metallics? Or is this really waterborne paint mixed with clearcoat??? I´m confused :D From what brand do you buy your Paint? Sikkens,PPG, Glasurit? thx
Amazing
Whats the proper way to use the file so it doesn't scratch? You didn't say. Is it a lubricant?
why didn't you get a colour matched paint...?
Amazing job bro 🤩👍👌💪
Tnx my friend
What is the paint code?
Wait, why did you stop? Did you remove the paint with the little tool then yo switch to regular sandpaper? And what about other rights? The coat, the polish
you have a lot of different videos on my channel about filling key scratches and different methods are shown as in this video
Just wow, as usual !
Tnx my friend
hi, thanks for the video, has anyone found the same entry-level accessory (Chinese)? on aliexpress or other
that would be great
THANKS
try on ebay
grea t job
I'm hook on your channel 😂. Question is your base color just simple base without clear and hardener ? I ask cause I see you always mix it together
Mix together is beter
So when I buy the paint for the car with the code add additional the hardener and clear in it ?
Was the base paint in bottle just base alone before you started mixing ? Or was it already mix and you added additional hardener and clear ?
is it water-based paint with 2k clear coat??? in theory it is not compatible
someone was lying to you😉
Drippy-thingy is called a Pipette.
I blew it off, and now we're engaged.
Mirka mini file A1
1:43 "Ribbed" lol.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
😘😘😘
U did not show all processes
you have other videos on the channel in which there is a step by step
Why did you skip the polishing process?
Hate bustards like that who scratch cars like that.
Mine were vandalised like this few times.
too mush tark too mush time x2 speed and still tooooooooooooo longggggggg
Preparation and planning prevents a piss poor performance.... rehearse and check your delivery before you publish...
Great technical video, but your narrator is very patronizing infantile and not very good at his job. I think he’s trying to be a comedian and I think he’ll do a great job as a comedian.
is any girl here? 😂
skipped the entire polishing process. dont believe it. theres a reason metallic basecoats and clearcoat are applied separately as the metallics sink to the bottom and sit on the wrong flip,hense u get touch up bottles of colour and clear separately. also as a professional painter for the last 30 years as sein on my channel, i could have prepped the scratch and the rest of the doors in about 15 minutes,blended and baked in about another 15 minutes to a showroom condition. not the above process in unsanded,unprepared paint.people will just be wasting there time with this.
Yea let's just do a half ass job respraying and panels on a brand new Porsche without removing any of the trim or mouldings, handles, etc... so that a month down the road not only has your brand new car had thr whole side resprayed with tape lines on everything, but it now shows the bonus flaking of Clearcoat on all the edges! Sounds way better to me then just touching it up to hide it...... 😆
I hate seeing and having to work on nice almost brand new cars come in with half ass paint work done on them, and having to go over it. It's a nightmare. Now since let's say thr door got dented or something and a real shop was fixing it, we would remove everything like you're supposed to. However, since head RUclips painter decided to quickly paint the car taping it off, we now have to sand and feather the edges that were created by doing so. Which usually ends up in burning thru some spots and having to spay basecoat to cover those spots now. Now we have way more time and money trying to fix the previous job and will have baseoat in a bunch of spots where it should have never needed to be worrying about the color matching as well!
I think I'll go with touching it up to hide it instead
@@1bugeyedrex yeh ok mate🤣 in an ideal world you would strip away… unless you are gonna charge the customer to strip there car to bits in time and labour then that’s fine. Can guarantee you, a professional painter has no tape lines or any of the above nonsense ur talking about. Not where I come from anyway. What your basically saying is every smart repair guy out there is a cowboy because that’s exactly what they do!! Not only that they blend clearcoat out mid panel. Am sure you will also have something to say about that? That’s because whoever has done it has done a shit job of it.. again,not in my world. Waste your time with this if you like.
Oh good peeling clear on top of other messes yall are doing lmao
I’m a painter as well. The whole point is to keep the car original without repainting. The customer would love it too.
He’s also using enamel. Clear is in it already.