Chuck, this has to be the best video you’ve done to date! Extremely easy to understand, complete information from beginning to end, and a great topic! Keep up the awesome work!
I thought the same while watching the video. Smart, complete testing. Excellent editing of the video to keep it flowing smoothly, and ultimately an unbiased conclusion. I regularly recommend CHEP's channel for Ender users. His videos are great for laymen or advanced users. Great work. Keep it up!
@@FilamentFriday I have seen a lot of reviews on this and similar extruders saying that the gear starts to eat into the alumina frame. Have you seen this happen?
I realize you made this video 3 years ago but I just needed to add a comment. I got my Creality Ender 3 Pro a year and a half ago. I was having minor issues with filament slippage a few weeks ago so I re-watched a few of your videos and decided to order the dual gear extruder. A few days later I replaced my bowden tube and bumped the temp up a few degrees and that took care of most of my issues. But today I received and installed the dual gear unit and it is great. I printed a CHEP cube that rivals or betters any I have done before. Thanks for all you do for the 3D printing community.
I know this is an older video CHEP, but this video saved me yesterday right before starting my longest print yet. I bought the upgrade before my Ender 3 v2 came and yesterday (only had the printer 3 weeks) the arm failed. I upgraded the extruder in no time flat because of this video. Thanks for all your videos.
Glad to see you reviewing this Chuck. I put one of these on my Enders recently to improve reliability. I ran into a problem with it, similar to your comment about the metal shavings near the gear. I noticed the screw on my idler gear was not very tight. I tightened it a little and got a lot of metal dust below the gear. When I took it apart, I realized that I had tightened it enough that the gear opening was squeezed together (apparently not very strong). I ended up filing the bottom part where the gear set to get clearance again. Then I put in some grease into the gear for the single roller bearing and a little below it. Then when I reassembled everything, I used a little bit of thread sealant on the screw. That way it wasn't too tight and wouldn't come loose. It's been working well since then.
Have had one of these sitting on a shelf for about 6 months. Finally got to fit it over the weekend along with some silicone spring replacements. Everything looked ok till I printed some small test items. The filament was all stringy and not fused together. A quick check on RUclips brought me back to this video which I'd watched before buying the extruder. E-Steps reset as per Chep's suggestion. All working fine now!! Cracking Video!
With that dual gear one you should have no slippage at all, maybe adjust the tension on the spring? Also note that the lever sleeve is often a bit too long, causing the arm to twist slightly, causing the motor to miss steps because of gear misalignment. Buffing the gears with very fine abrasive can also help a lot. The problem with any kind of slippage or missed steps is that you have no control over where or whether it happens, so when you try to overcompensate but are suddenly in an area where the filament flows very freely you overextrude. It might make sense to experiment with linear advance as it tends to keep the peek pressure of the filament in the bowden tube lower, causing much less occasions where the necessary force is too much.
I have found that the CHEP videos are the only way to go. I recommend them whenever I can. I have had 4 different printers and in each I have followed his videos. I love Chuck's very articulate and to the point videos. I just did this extruder and it was perfect. Thanks!
Hey Chuck, I have to credit you with helping me figure out how to assemble this extruder - thank you! I have been using mine extensively for 3 months now, but it recently started making a terrible grinding noise, and after pulling off the lever (which you show at 4:39) I identified a MAJOR design flaw in this extruder (at least the version I have), which is that the two idler bearings (which are type K030507 and inside the idler) are rolling on a standard M3 screw thread with all the force exerted by the lever. This will destroy both the bearing and the screw thread and is both really bad and easy to fix. The screw holding the bearing inside the lever (as shown at 4:39) should be a half-thread, so that the bearing is rolling over a smooth surface on the screw, rather than rolling over screw thread. I cut off a longer half-thread M3 bolt to fit, however my bearing is knackered and needs replacing (but at least it is now no longer making the terrible grinding noise). There also should be lubrication in here, when there doesn't appear to be any applied in the factory-assembled piece. I would recommend you check this screw and ensure that it is indeed a half-thread rather than a full-thread, or you will end up killing that bearing.
Unfortunately, this particular dual gear extruder (I got one also for my JGMAKER MAGIC) has needle bearings in the idler gear. That is good EXCEPT they ride against the threads of that long screw!!! They will be eaten in short order To fix that, I took a 4mm screw of the same length, put it in my mini-lathe and cut off the threads except for 3mm of length at the screw head. I polished it and then drilled and tapped the top of the lever arm for 4mm and drilled out the bottom hole for 3mm clearance. Now those needle bearings, well greased, ride on a smooth shaft. Also, I filed down the bottom surface of that arm to allow a washer under the idler gear so that it doesn't chew the arm to bits. Those are two huge problems with the extruder that you chose. Hope this helps some of you. :)
Tom Is there a better double gear metal extruder that you know of and could recommend for the Ender 3 pro? I bought a single gear metal extruder and it is chewing up my PLA at the meeting of the gear and the entrance to the bowden tube . I would like to get the machine back in action as I have a project to do but don't want to get another metal extruder with problems if possible. Thanks for any help!.
Thank you CHEP. This is the best video I've seen about how to calibrate this kind of extruder. Very easy to understand even for non english people. Greetings from France. Keep doing these amazing videos, you're made for this.
Thanks, Chep! I purchased this a couple of weeks ago, and installed it tonight with your guidance. AWESOME!! With your help, the extruder calibration is near-perfect, and I'm back up and printing. Pretty easy install and calibration process with your tutorial as a guide!
Just dropped this extruder in my Ender 3 V2, I could hear the stock plastic one skipping every now and then. Adjusting my e-step to 143 gets me a perfect 100mm through the hot end. Thanks for the video.
If I were you I will leave the estep calibrated with the “open” air method and then compensate with the flow multiplier. I write down the printing temp and flow multiplier on each filament roll. You will be surprised that rolls of the same brand but different color they have different flow multiplier even though they use the same printing temperature
Actually I do that. You might have noticed my machine was calibrated originally that way as I do adjust in the slicer. But I often get people commenting to adjust eSteps so I can’t win.
really love your channel I brought this extruder because my printer is now 8 months old and the plastic extruder started giving bad prints so I replaced but did not know that I have to calibrate also after a lot of fixing ( from nozzle to hot end, bowden tube coupling ,spool holder) I fixed everything but still got under extrusion but finally my printer is now printing fabulous thanks!!
Note that this dual gear no long fit for the Ender 3 Pro (2021) due to the stepper motor shaft is shorter and the wheel gear is pressed on to the shaft.
Chuck, Ive been having extruder issues for months now. After 30 mins of using my new dual gear extruder all of my under extrusion issues are solved. Thank you so much for doing the video!!! Ive now subbed and got something from your links. You're on my watch list. Thank you so much.
After I've installed this dual drive gear, I started to experience clicking sounds comming from the extruder motor. Reading about it online I figured this is a problems where the stepper motor of the extruder is skipping and this could be causes by a blockage in one of the parts that lead the filament to the nozzle/hot-end. After a lot of cleaning of hot-end and all the parts that leads the filament to the nozzle without any success and after looking at a lot of videos online. I came up with the assumption that the spring in this dual drive, presses on the motor pivot too much. I've replaced the yellowish sprint that came with this kit with the old silvery spring that came with the ender 3. The original spring is softer. This seems to solve the clicking issue. I hope this helps someone that is dealing with this same issue.
Oldy but a goody. Thanks for this. I just bought a WinSinn and your video was great for helping to get it all setup. A couple notes for folks that necro this video. 1) there is an extra spring in the kit. I think it's just a less stiff spring in case you want that. 2) when aligning the teeth, leave the one on the extruder a little loose and then put the arm in with the other pully. match the teeth up through the old. or better yet, just assemble it out of the system and match the teeth. 3) I was in the 138 estep range from a old step of 93, so about the same as the video. 4)If i had it to do over again, I would take the time to measure out the full load and unload length. If forgot to do this. you can do it later, but it's just easy when it's all apart. That length will help if you have a plugin for doing filament swaps. One button to remove and reset. Anyway, great video and a huge thanks!
Some of the newer ender 3 pros have a gear pressed stepper so you can’t remove it. Could you do a video on how to remove the gear pressed ones and how to install this extruder on them, or recommend a new stepper that has a screw like the one in your video? Thanks!
Chuck my friend you save my bacon tonight! I've been having trouble with my Andrew three after I switched to the metal gear stepper motor and I haven't had the same quality. your advice on calibrating the e steps was exactly the medicine my ender needed! I've been having anxiety over this thing for the last 2 months and finally it works! Thank you man keep up the great content!
The issue you were experiencing at 08:00 isn't caused by slippage, it is caused by the motor not having sufficient torque to push the filament through, itself a combination of a hot end not able to melt filament fast enough and insufficient drive current to the motor. When you increased the esteps to compensate for the 6mm, it meant that now your printer will over extrude when extruding a smaller volume of filament such as when printing slowly or low layer heights, and maybe extrude the correct amount when printing at a load exactly equal to what it would see if the filament consumption was exactly the same as the manual feed speed. If it was printing a tall layer height quickly such as when doing infill, it would under extrude again (flow required higher than default manual move speed) and then over extrude on outside perimeters (flow would be below the manual move speed you've "calibrated" it to). I think your testing method is very good but you can clearly see the motor snap back at the end of the 100mm move when it is unable to hold the torque. No amount of filament grip is going to fix that, you need to increase the current drive to the extruder, put a bigger motor in or upgrade to a better hot end.
The motor would slip not snap back based on your description. I can see slight slippage in the filament. It’s plastic vs metal teeth. Plastic loses. There were no over extrusions in the prints including the ones I showed. Even on the small 3Dbenchy details were fine. So my adjustments appear to be just fine.
Hi Chuck, Just installed this dual gear extruder kit from Banggood.... Used your video and even your e-steps.... perfect right out of the gate. Best Calibration Cube I've made yet!
I like the new dual gear extruder but I miss the 3d printer knob I had on the older one. Are there any designs for a knob on the dual gear extruder somehow? Thanks for the great content!
@@johnwhiteanderson1 nope, and I don't think it's actually possible. the dual extruder was designed on a way that doesn't leave enough space on the stepper axis to connect any kind of knob.
This was the first thing I did to my ender on day one. To fix the gear grinding issue, I did two things. 1: the screw that holds the gear in is the wrong type. Its uses the needle bearing onto threads, that will cause premature wear on the bearing. I replaced the screw with a longer screw that had a smooth section near the head (3x40 maybe?) and cut off the extra threads. This gives the bearing a smooth surface to ride on. 2: I grabbed some 3mm shims from the local hobby shop, and used a Dremel to create enough clearance to add the shims top and bottom of the gear. I've been printing with this setup for 10 months now, and showing zero wear!
It's a very interesting comparison of both systems! But consider that during a normal print you never extrude a length of 100mm at once, so the pressure is not so strong. My CR10 runs 24/7 since 2 years with it's original cheap plastic extruder and it's fine ;-)
@@FilamentFriday Which part wears out of the extruder? The input hole or gear? To avoid damaging the input hole the filament must pass it without any angle.
@@stephan.scharf input hole usually goes first, when I got my ender 3 I was printing lots of glow in the dark filaments and the filament actually cut all the way through the plastic lever in a few weeks of use.
@@stephan.scharf input definitely is a wear item. i'd rather scratch my filament slightly with aluminium than wear through the extruder over the course of a few months. my gantry changes heights so the entry is rarely straight and i'd rather not hang the rolls off of the gantry
@@MrOsmodeus I attached a castor to the x gantry in height of the filament hole and the spool holder on top. So the filament goes straight into the hole independly of z height.
Be aware that you should check your motor before purchasing this thing. If it has a pressed on gear (the brass thing that feeds the filament line), you can't replace it as shown in this video unless you get a new motor as well.
Thanks for that great video! I've had the upgrade sitting in a drawer for about a year now, thinking "yeah I'll get to it one day...". Finally did it, super easy just like the video shows, and calibrated in no time! I literally got the same 6mm at 186 deg!! 205 deg was spot on, so I'm happy with it! Thanks again!!
This kit won't work properly on newer Ender 3 Pros, they started press fitting the gears so they are difficult to remove. The shaft on mine doesn't even have a flat spot.
Thanks for this guide, just put this extruder on my CR10S5 which came with the same extruder as the Ender 3, I also have a 0.8mm nozzle and a 5kg spool.. So now I have my esteps dialed in 100% thanks to you, looks like my under extrusion issues are a thing of the past.
Thanks Chep. The old one broke off from the idler wheel, the whole section snapped. It wasnt obvious at first because it didnt fall off or anything, it just wasnt extruding anymore. I went ahead and got the package that included the motor and it was pretty easy to setup, your video helped on the e-steps. Only small issue so far is the hole scrapes the filament, hopefully it will wear down with usage, it seems it already has started to with just one small print.
Same for me. I also bought a new motor,.because the gear was fixed on the old motor and the shaft of the okd motor did not have the dent for the new gear.
The orange spring that comes with the extruder is the wrong type for this extruder, I've had this extruder for awhile and I'm currently using it as direct drive. Works great but comes with the wrong parts The spring tension adjustment doesn't work because the spring is the wrong type. You need to use the spring from the original extruder. That's also why the arm is grinding into the base. And you had an issue with slipping. The orange spring puts alot of unnecessary load on the motor and is not good for it in my opinion. Just use the original spring and use the tension adjustment.
@@martingerken7094 Yeah unfortunately no one seems to have noticed the issue or cared. Its actually a fantastic extruder upgrade but you need to use the right parts.
Just wanted to say that your videos are amazing! I go straight to your channel whenever I need a solution, or want to find out what's new in the 3d printing world. Keep up the amazing work!
The gear on the lever eventually ground through the bottom plate and fell out of alignment. Can't complain too much. It held up for 3 years, so a few thousand hours of printing. Thanks for all the beautiful prints Chep.
Can confirm, the new ender 3 pros have a press fit gear on them. Also, the shaft length was shortened to 12mm instead of the standard 20, requiring you to buy a new motor in order to install the dual gear drive. If the press fit gear is at the very top of the shaft, then it is a 12mm shaft. Learnt this the hard way after sawing off the press fit gear on mine. Thankfully, I was able to use the new gear pushed all the way down with the spring compressed all the way (and tuning the esteps way up to compensate for the smaller circumference) while I wait for a new motor to arrive. :/
I had the same problem, they say you can heat up the gear then pull it off with the use of a tool and a large quantity of pulling strength. But, I just ended up buying a new motor and gear.
You can not mount the Dual Drive Gear Extruder on the motor with pressed mounted gear, the motor axe is too short. You have to buy new motor with long axe.
Hi. Another Great Video, Just upgraded ender 3 Max, with this Extruder, Worked fine, Only had to Print a 15mm spacer for under the Filament sensor with longer bolts. to keep it inline.
Don't waste time or money on this trash "upgrade". The 2nd drive gear is poorly designed and does not ride on a real bearing like the stock equipment. It shifts around on the screw that holds it and grinds on the aluminum arm. It dose not add anything to print quality and referring to it as an upgrade is false advertisement. Its a down grade from the plastic one Creality sends as stock.
CHEP, thank you for this video. I had followed some of your other video guides to print flexible filaments but didn't have any success with the printed extruder mod. I installed the dual gear drive extruder and went back and used your slicer settings and have successfully printed the octopus.
@@cxvxcbcxn true, I have a new Ender 3 (not v2) and the 42-40 stepper motor has a shorter shaft and a pressed on gear... while I got the gear off (by destroying it) the shaft is too short for the new gear...now my main printer is down
@@acidnine Same situation, but Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.2. I struggled for a while and then remember I had a gear puller for RC car motors I picked up on Scamazon for 8 bucks and it popped right off.
Great upgrade video, Chuck! I've been getting under-extrusion since I got my Ender 3 and am slowly zeroing it in to perfection with your help! You, Teaching Tech, Maker's Muse, CNC Kitchen and some others that I'm forgetting at the moment have been incredibly awesome in tuning this great machine! Thank you!
Esteps came out perfectly the first time. Thank you! In the process off printing the first Benchy from my brand new, but heavily modified Ender 3 pro. Dual Gear, direct drive, SKR 1.4 Turbo, Hero me fan mod. My goal was to get as close to a Prusa without spending Prusa money. I think I might have succeeded! Watched your assembly video as well.
How funny. I was just on Amazon to order another extuder for my CR10 mini. This was the first time I've seen a dual gear extruder so I ordered it to give it a try. Then I popped on RUclips and seen you had just done a video on it. Another awesome video my friend.
Really informative! I came for an upgraded extruder review, but it also helped me understand the E-steps calibration process. I really like the more-edited tutorial format with a voiceover recorded afterwards.
As a new and dedicated follower. I wanted a better extruder, hard to choose when there are always so many negative reviews (even down the comments here). However, you do tend to find this with people at home with different skill levels. When considering how reasonably priced these units are and how easy it would be to replace I can't understand sometimes "why so negative". Followed you through to the end, no mucking about with the numbers as you worked them out.. Rocking! I did find that I had to do some fine-tuning of the bed "again" but am back to pretty decent prints. Congratulations on being the best and most informative "goto" guy. You have made my hobby a lot more enjoyable.
thank you Chep, I just replaced my motherboard after an extruder driver failure on my ender3 pro and I forgot how to calculate the e steps for this duel gear extruder but remembered u had the go-to video on how to do it thanks again
Ahh Chuck, this really helped me solve my flow problem, with that extruder on running on a 42/40 stepper motor on Ender 3 v2, my setting came out at 137.9. It worked perfectly, thank you for posting and sharing! :D
I've used your instructions and a print that turned out misrebly with the old extruder, but is going fantastic with the new one, thank you for making it so much esyer for me.
I threw in the towel on this upgrade. Worked like a charm for about 2 weeks before you could just tell it was tearing itself apart. Switched to an EZstruder, which is very smooth! If you do the same, you may need to tune the extruder stepper motor current, just FYI.
Chuck an excellent video as always. I installed one of these yesterday as my extruder is probably the only thing giving me issues at the moment. I upgraded to a standard aluminium version of the Creality extruder about a year ago which has been fine for the most part, but still skips more than I'd like. This new Dual Gear extruder seems to be a lot better and after calibrating the E-Steps puts the correct amount of filament through to about 0.4mm accuracy with 100mm of filament. One thing to note. Anyone with a standard Ender 3 or CR10 should change their retraction settings after fitting this. The standard settings in Cura for the old extruder is 7mm retraction distance and 70mm retraction speed. I usually got good results from that, but since this extruder is very different in design this setting is far too harsh and can grind filament and even cause skipping of the motor. To get the correct default retraction settings for this extruder I simply added a CR10S Pro into Cura on printers then checked the default standard profile for the retraction settings in there. This is set to 5mm retraction distance and 45mm retraction speed. It makes sense to add that as your starting point, then tweak up or down depending on what you're printing and if you're getting stringing or not, with the aim of getting it as low as possible without stringing. This might also be very different if you have Linear Advance setup correctly and in some cases can mean you need little or no retraction. Hope this helps
Hey Chuck, has anyone ever told you that you sound a lot like Ed O'neill? On a more serious note I just wanted to thank you for all your hard work. Just about every question I've had getting into 3D printing has been answered here on your RUclips channel. Your videos are concise, well executed, and you make the information easily digestible to those who are just getting started. Thanks again, and keep up the great work!
I should have watched this before I changed my extruder over! 1. I have the exact one you've demonstrated, and 2. the other video made no mention of recalibrating eSteps, so I had severe underextrusion all day before light dawned.... and now I know how to mount the spring properly too.....
I did this upgrade for both Ender 3 Pro and Ender 5. Re-calibrating was definitely necessary. I have maybe 5-60 hours on both extruders now and so far so good! I did as you suggest and use grease around steel/aluminum joins and also a drop of oil on the inner finger bearings.
Thank you very much for this fantastic video which is, even for newcomers, very easy to follow and understand! Changed the Drive Gear and adjusted the filament flow, awesome!
I just got one of those extruders for my Ender 3 V2. The plastic one was cracked and constantly slipped. I have had the printer for about a year and never calibrated the e- steps before. This is a simple, easy to follow video and I'll finally get it done before my next print.
Great video! Thank you! My OEM extruder has been clicking for a long time, and yesterday gave up the ghost. I'm ordering this one and will be sure to calibrate it! Thanks, again!
I just got this Today! so stoked to try it! I bought it on impulse. maybe should of watched this first. but, ill watch it now!.. CHEP plz keep ur content rolling. luv it!
I will be installing this on my ender pro tomorrow. My original one cracked causing bad prints. I picked it up on Amazon for 15 bucks. Thanks chep for the video !
Thanks for this, I just found that my Ender 3 was soooo way off when it comes to Esteps. No wonder I had to keep making the flow set to 155 every time I start a print. Adjusted Esteps to 237.50 mm and now I just print without any changes in configuration anymore. Great video!
U adjusted estepd to 237? U sure that plastic housing of extruder isnt broken? Had the same prob. But, when I had a lot of retractions. There was no filament coming out.
this double geared extruded worked wonders for me on my CR10 mini, i didn't have to do any other modifications to be able to print tpu and i was very happy about it, after 3-4 months i started to notice some metal dust at the base of the gear and i didn't think too much about it because it was still printing great, unfortunately after another couple months i started to get tpu filament jammed at every print, in the end turns out that the "movable" gear (the one mounted on the spring arm) had indeed dug itself into the metal at the point that the two gears weren't at the same height anymore...maybe a washer could prevent this?too late for me anyway...I'm switching to a bondtech and see how things will go... waiting for your video about cura 4.5!!! thank you for all the help and the great content you provide us
Hey Chep Thanks for the video so i just replaced my motherboard with the silent board and I also installed the duel drive extruder and with a 3d printed direct-drive bracket i modified for the new duel gear extruder and i used a 2 1/2 inch piece of Capricorn tubing and calibrated my esteps the way u showed in this video and i have to thank u big time my ender 3 pro has always printed great but now it's printing on a new level of clean i love this set up thanks for the videos and all the tip and trick you share
The reason you probably didnt see even better print quality is because both were presumably printed at the same print speed. With a more consistent flow you should be able to increase print speed and still get the same quality as you did before. The main issue i seem to have with slippage is either when the roll is getting closer to empty and it is struggling a bit more to turn the spool, and also when printing infill at a high speed.
Thank You very much for Your work. This video contains all the info needed when looking for a dual-gear extruder on ender 3. Very helpful. Best video on the subject I found so far. Thanks a lot. :)
Biggest improvement people will see with this upgrade is faster print speeds where a lot of filament needs to be pushed through but also with smaller diameter nozzles since they require precise pressure control and you can't get that with stock which slips a lot. Also smaller gears meaning more turning meaning more precision for same filament length.
Hi Chuck - thanks for the review. I've also purchased a dual drive because I thought it might help with jams and tangles on the filament roll, although there's a point where the filament will break, there are times where it should get past a tangle. In reference to the driven gear cutting into the base, I see that others have also experienced this. And, that a manufacture has reduced the thickness of the base and inserted a washer between the base and the gear. This isn't a bad idea since the gear is steel and and the base is AL, but I think a thrust bearing would be the ideal solution. I have a lathe, so I just removed the enough material from the gear teeth to prevent them from cutting into the base - I still have the other options if needed. Thanks for all the useful information that you provide.
This is a great video and very insightful. My gear screws stripped and I think I'll go with this dual gear extruder just for piece of mind, reliability and consistency.
There is one other thing about this feed head* that you never mentioned. It's the reason I bought the same one before even seeing your video. The spot where the filament comes out of the dual gears and enters the hole in the aluminum leading to the PTFE fitting is a nearly true 'v' with no gap. This is the first aluminum extruder I have seen with that full V so I bought it more for the V than I did for the dual gears. (most other aluminum extruders 'flat top' the V creating a small gap between where the filament comes out of the gears to where it goes into the hole in the aluminum) About a year ago, I bought a direct drive for my Ender 3 and chose one specifically because it came with an aluminum feed head. I had the silver-chrome branded feed head but didn't want to mess it up. I was getting the direct drive to do flexible filament without buckling in the bowden tube and to prevent that buckling from knuckling the filament coming out of the gear. But many recommendations also said to use a feed head with a 'v' that butts right up against the gear with little or no gap. There are models that can be printed on thingiverse, but at the time all I had was PLA and a no-name role of ABS that I still can't get to print right to this day. (too brittle and layer separates constantly) What I found instead was a suggestion of using an aluminum feed head and drilling a hole through it for a piece of Capricorn PTFE tubing that has the 'v' cut on the end of it. I've been using that set-up with the aluminum feed head that came with my direct drive mounting bracket for close to a year. But I recently tried printing some 80A filament and find that it's too soft for even that setup. So I ordered one of these feed heads and I'm going to give it a try as soon as my current 18hour print finishes up with the 80A filament to see how it does. The aluminum 'v' (as opposed to just a piece of capricorn PTFE) should fill the entire gap between the two gears and I'm hoping will prevent this squishy filament from finding a hole out through the side of the gears. And the addition of the pressure fitting should mean there is a more solid channel for half the distance to my hot-end rather than the full distance being nothing but the PTFE. *crosses fingers* I'll report back after I mount it and try some of the 80A and 85A to comment on my results with this feed head. (I've had no problems printing 90A and above with the PTFE through a standard aluminum feed head btw) * (I don't like to call them 'extruders' because that gets confusing when you also talk with people about 'extruding' their own filament. I don't really think of it as 'extruding' because it's simply moving the filament along, not necessarily forcing it down the bowden tube. Yeah, it "extrudes" at the hot end nozzle, but that would make the nozzle the "extruder")
initial response. It doesn't fit my direct drive mount. The one I bought is bent in a 'z' type shape to offset the stepper motor with the feed head on the back and there is a hole through the flat section bent outward that you feed the pressure fitting and short piece of PTFE through to the hotend. It would need about 9mm more on the bend due to the slightly increased height of this feed head. I shot a support question to Printermods to see if their mount will work with this dual gear setup. Someone posed the same question on their amazon page and they said they would be posting something to their website to print an additional spacer to fit. Their's uses the same type configuration, but rather than bending the metal to create a mount for the stepper motor, they use offsets and a second piece of metal for the stepper and feed head to mount to. However, by looking at what comes with the kit, the spacers are made for the standard height aluminum heads. I couldn't find a reference to a printable spacer on their website, thus I shot the question to their support.
unfortunately, I could fabricate all but the two posts that stick out to screw the hotend too. or I would just make another version of the one I have. I may look at it again when I get home after the weekend if the printermods version won't work. Otherwise, I suppose my only choice is the micro swiss setup
Chuck, this has to be the best video you’ve done to date! Extremely easy to understand, complete information from beginning to end, and a great topic! Keep up the awesome work!
Thanks Jim.
I thought the same while watching the video. Smart, complete testing. Excellent editing of the video to keep it flowing smoothly, and ultimately an unbiased conclusion. I regularly recommend CHEP's channel for Ender users. His videos are great for laymen or advanced users. Great work. Keep it up!
@@randomrat6421 yeah great video! love the conclusion! did it work? well no. should you buy one? sure you should
Too bad it's a terrible design where the gear grinds into the base.
@@FilamentFriday I have seen a lot of reviews on this and similar extruders saying that the gear starts to eat into the alumina frame. Have you seen this happen?
I realize you made this video 3 years ago but I just needed to add a comment. I got my Creality Ender 3 Pro a year and a half ago. I was having minor issues with filament slippage a few weeks ago so I re-watched a few of your videos and decided to order the dual gear extruder. A few days later I replaced my bowden tube and bumped the temp up a few degrees and that took care of most of my issues. But today I received and installed the dual gear unit and it is great. I printed a CHEP cube that rivals or betters any I have done before. Thanks for all you do for the 3D printing community.
I love your no-nonsense, to the point videos. Quick, informative, and easy to understand!
TH3mrBROWN - Thanks.
I agree, I’m buying my first machine and don’t want to mess around with garbage “upgrades”
80% of videos I looked up are garbage clickbait
Chuck... killing it
Haha...thanks.
I know this is an older video CHEP, but this video saved me yesterday right before starting my longest print yet. I bought the upgrade before my Ender 3 v2 came and yesterday (only had the printer 3 weeks) the arm failed. I upgraded the extruder in no time flat because of this video. Thanks for all your videos.
Glad to see you reviewing this Chuck. I put one of these on my Enders recently to improve reliability. I ran into a problem with it, similar to your comment about the metal shavings near the gear. I noticed the screw on my idler gear was not very tight. I tightened it a little and got a lot of metal dust below the gear. When I took it apart, I realized that I had tightened it enough that the gear opening was squeezed together (apparently not very strong). I ended up filing the bottom part where the gear set to get clearance again. Then I put in some grease into the gear for the single roller bearing and a little below it. Then when I reassembled everything, I used a little bit of thread sealant on the screw. That way it wasn't too tight and wouldn't come loose. It's been working well since then.
I've learned to type CHEP in front of any of my 3D printing queries. Best results.
This video is absolute gold. Easy to understand even for a newbie like me. The estep calibration is a big plus. Can't thank you enough. Awesome work.
Thanks Chuck, as a newbie at 3d printing your videos have been invaluable 👍👍👍
Have had one of these sitting on a shelf for about 6 months. Finally got to fit it over the weekend along with some silicone spring replacements. Everything looked ok till I printed some small test items. The filament was all stringy and not fused together. A quick check on RUclips brought me back to this video which I'd watched before buying the extruder. E-Steps reset as per Chep's suggestion. All working fine now!! Cracking Video!
With that dual gear one you should have no slippage at all, maybe adjust the tension on the spring? Also note that the lever sleeve is often a bit too long, causing the arm to twist slightly, causing the motor to miss steps because of gear misalignment. Buffing the gears with very fine abrasive can also help a lot.
The problem with any kind of slippage or missed steps is that you have no control over where or whether it happens, so when you try to overcompensate but are suddenly in an area where the filament flows very freely you overextrude.
It might make sense to experiment with linear advance as it tends to keep the peek pressure of the filament in the bowden tube lower, causing much less occasions where the necessary force is too much.
I have found that the CHEP videos are the only way to go. I recommend them whenever I can. I have had 4 different printers and in each I have followed his videos. I love Chuck's very articulate and to the point videos. I just did this extruder and it was perfect. Thanks!
Saved my bacon this video did. Thanks for the e steps, works 100% on a 100mm stretch and thanks for the install instructions.
Hey Chuck, I have to credit you with helping me figure out how to assemble this extruder - thank you!
I have been using mine extensively for 3 months now, but it recently started making a terrible grinding noise, and after pulling off the lever (which you show at 4:39) I identified a MAJOR design flaw in this extruder (at least the version I have), which is that the two idler bearings (which are type K030507 and inside the idler) are rolling on a standard M3 screw thread with all the force exerted by the lever. This will destroy both the bearing and the screw thread and is both really bad and easy to fix.
The screw holding the bearing inside the lever (as shown at 4:39) should be a half-thread, so that the bearing is rolling over a smooth surface on the screw, rather than rolling over screw thread. I cut off a longer half-thread M3 bolt to fit, however my bearing is knackered and needs replacing (but at least it is now no longer making the terrible grinding noise). There also should be lubrication in here, when there doesn't appear to be any applied in the factory-assembled piece. I would recommend you check this screw and ensure that it is indeed a half-thread rather than a full-thread, or you will end up killing that bearing.
Unfortunately, this particular dual gear extruder (I got one also for my JGMAKER MAGIC) has needle bearings in the idler gear. That is good EXCEPT they ride against the threads of that long screw!!! They will be eaten in short order To fix that, I took a 4mm screw of the same length, put it in my mini-lathe and cut off the threads except for 3mm of length at the screw head. I polished it and then drilled and tapped the top of the lever arm for 4mm and drilled out the bottom hole for 3mm clearance. Now those needle bearings, well greased, ride on a smooth shaft. Also, I filed down the bottom surface of that arm to allow a washer under the idler gear so that it doesn't chew the arm to bits. Those are two huge problems with the extruder that you chose.
Hope this helps some of you. :)
Tom Is there a better double gear metal extruder that you know of and could recommend for the Ender 3 pro? I bought a single gear metal extruder and it is chewing up my PLA at the meeting of the gear and the entrance to the bowden tube . I would like to get the machine back in action as I have a project to do but don't want to get another metal extruder with problems if possible. Thanks for any help!.
@@terry2346 Any Bondtech or many Bondtech clones will work. That's what I have now.
Thank you CHEP. This is the best video I've seen about how to calibrate this kind of extruder. Very easy to understand even for non english people. Greetings from France. Keep doing these amazing videos, you're made for this.
I don't even have a 3d printer and I found this fascinating.
Thanks, Chep! I purchased this a couple of weeks ago, and installed it tonight with your guidance. AWESOME!! With your help, the extruder calibration is near-perfect, and I'm back up and printing. Pretty easy install and calibration process with your tutorial as a guide!
Thanks. It would be nice to see also how well it handles flexible filament.
I did that on my CR-10s Pro review. It handles flexible except for the very flexible Ninjaflex.
@@FilamentFriday oh, perfect, thank you - I'll check it out
Just dropped this extruder in my Ender 3 V2, I could hear the stock plastic one skipping every now and then. Adjusting my e-step to 143 gets me a perfect 100mm through the hot end. Thanks for the video.
If I were you I will leave the estep calibrated with the “open” air method and then compensate with the flow multiplier. I write down the printing temp and flow multiplier on each filament roll. You will be surprised that rolls of the same brand but different color they have different flow multiplier even though they use the same printing temperature
Actually I do that. You might have noticed my machine was calibrated originally that way as I do adjust in the slicer. But I often get people commenting to adjust eSteps so I can’t win.
@@FilamentFriday could you please do a video on this process? That would be super helpful.
really love your channel
I brought this extruder because my printer is now 8 months old and the plastic extruder started giving bad prints so I replaced but did not know that I have to calibrate also
after a lot of fixing ( from nozzle to hot end, bowden tube coupling ,spool holder) I fixed everything but still got under extrusion but finally my printer is now printing fabulous
thanks!!
Note that this dual gear no long fit for the Ender 3 Pro (2021) due to the stepper motor shaft is shorter and the wheel gear is pressed on to the shaft.
Ordered my E3 Pro and Dual gear at the same time and came to this vid hoping to figure out how to get that gear off ;n;
Just replace the stepper motor with the correct one
@@kharmastreams8319 do you know what the correct one would be?
Chuck, Ive been having extruder issues for months now. After 30 mins of using my new dual gear extruder all of my under extrusion issues are solved. Thank you so much for doing the video!!! Ive now subbed and got something from your links. You're on my watch list. Thank you so much.
Thanks. Glad I could help.
After I've installed this dual drive gear, I started to experience clicking sounds comming from the extruder motor. Reading about it online I figured this is a problems where the stepper motor of the extruder is skipping and this could be causes by a blockage in one of the parts that lead the filament to the nozzle/hot-end. After a lot of cleaning of hot-end and all the parts that leads the filament to the nozzle without any success and after looking at a lot of videos online. I came up with the assumption that the spring in this dual drive, presses on the motor pivot too much. I've replaced the yellowish sprint that came with this kit with the old silvery spring that came with the ender 3. The original spring is softer. This seems to solve the clicking issue.
I hope this helps someone that is dealing with this same issue.
Oldy but a goody. Thanks for this. I just bought a WinSinn and your video was great for helping to get it all setup. A couple notes for folks that necro this video. 1) there is an extra spring in the kit. I think it's just a less stiff spring in case you want that. 2) when aligning the teeth, leave the one on the extruder a little loose and then put the arm in with the other pully. match the teeth up through the old. or better yet, just assemble it out of the system and match the teeth. 3) I was in the 138 estep range from a old step of 93, so about the same as the video. 4)If i had it to do over again, I would take the time to measure out the full load and unload length. If forgot to do this. you can do it later, but it's just easy when it's all apart. That length will help if you have a plugin for doing filament swaps. One button to remove and reset. Anyway, great video and a huge thanks!
Some of the newer ender 3 pros have a gear pressed stepper so you can’t remove it. Could you do a video on how to remove the gear pressed ones and how to install this extruder on them, or recommend a new stepper that has a screw like the one in your video? Thanks!
The press-on does not have a flat spot on the shaft.
Best solution is to replace the stepper motor with a better one
Chuck my friend you save my bacon tonight! I've been having trouble with my Andrew three after I switched to the metal gear stepper motor and I haven't had the same quality. your advice on calibrating the e steps was exactly the medicine my ender needed! I've been having anxiety over this thing for the last 2 months and finally it works! Thank you man keep up the great content!
The issue you were experiencing at 08:00 isn't caused by slippage, it is caused by the motor not having sufficient torque to push the filament through, itself a combination of a hot end not able to melt filament fast enough and insufficient drive current to the motor. When you increased the esteps to compensate for the 6mm, it meant that now your printer will over extrude when extruding a smaller volume of filament such as when printing slowly or low layer heights, and maybe extrude the correct amount when printing at a load exactly equal to what it would see if the filament consumption was exactly the same as the manual feed speed. If it was printing a tall layer height quickly such as when doing infill, it would under extrude again (flow required higher than default manual move speed) and then over extrude on outside perimeters (flow would be below the manual move speed you've "calibrated" it to).
I think your testing method is very good but you can clearly see the motor snap back at the end of the 100mm move when it is unable to hold the torque. No amount of filament grip is going to fix that, you need to increase the current drive to the extruder, put a bigger motor in or upgrade to a better hot end.
The motor would slip not snap back based on your description. I can see slight slippage in the filament. It’s plastic vs metal teeth. Plastic loses.
There were no over extrusions in the prints including the ones I showed. Even on the small 3Dbenchy details were fine.
So my adjustments appear to be just fine.
Chuck, thank you very much for taking the time to explain and demonstrate this procedure. Your video was VERY helpful to me. Very nice job!
I was literally opening the bag when he said but is it worth it. I just stopped lmao 😂 still gotta watch the video tho
Hi Chuck, Just installed this dual gear extruder kit from Banggood.... Used your video and even your e-steps.... perfect right out of the gate. Best Calibration Cube I've made yet!
I like the new dual gear extruder but I miss the 3d printer knob I had on the older one. Are there any designs for a knob on the dual gear extruder somehow? Thanks for the great content!
Did you ever have any luck finding a knob? I'd love to know where
@@johnwhiteanderson1 nope, and I don't think it's actually possible. the dual extruder was designed on a way that doesn't leave enough space on the stepper axis to connect any kind of knob.
This was the first thing I did to my ender on day one. To fix the gear grinding issue, I did two things.
1: the screw that holds the gear in is the wrong type. Its uses the needle bearing onto threads, that will cause premature wear on the bearing. I replaced the screw with a longer screw that had a smooth section near the head (3x40 maybe?) and cut off the extra threads. This gives the bearing a smooth surface to ride on.
2: I grabbed some 3mm shims from the local hobby shop, and used a Dremel to create enough clearance to add the shims top and bottom of the gear. I've been printing with this setup for 10 months now, and showing zero wear!
It's a very interesting comparison of both systems!
But consider that during a normal print you never extrude a length of 100mm at once, so the pressure is not so strong. My CR10 runs 24/7 since 2 years with it's original cheap plastic extruder and it's fine ;-)
So does mine in my print farm. But they sometimes do wear out and many people want to know about options to replace it.
@@FilamentFriday Which part wears out of the extruder? The input hole or gear? To avoid damaging the input hole the filament must pass it without any angle.
@@stephan.scharf input hole usually goes first, when I got my ender 3 I was printing lots of glow in the dark filaments and the filament actually cut all the way through the plastic lever in a few weeks of use.
@@stephan.scharf input definitely is a wear item. i'd rather scratch my filament slightly with aluminium than wear through the extruder over the course of a few months. my gantry changes heights so the entry is rarely straight and i'd rather not hang the rolls off of the gantry
@@MrOsmodeus I attached a castor to the x gantry in height of the filament hole and the spool holder on top. So the filament goes straight into the hole independly of z height.
Brilliant informative video as always. For $15 this is a no brainer upgrade over the stock plastic extruder. Thanks just purchased one.
Thanks
Be aware that you should check your motor before purchasing this thing. If it has a pressed on gear (the brass thing that feeds the filament line), you can't replace it as shown in this video unless you get a new motor as well.
I wish I had read this before
@@fg2873 me too...
Thanks for that great video! I've had the upgrade sitting in a drawer for about a year now, thinking "yeah I'll get to it one day...". Finally did it, super easy just like the video shows, and calibrated in no time! I literally got the same 6mm at 186 deg!! 205 deg was spot on, so I'm happy with it! Thanks again!!
This kit won't work properly on newer Ender 3 Pros, they started press fitting the gears so they are difficult to remove. The shaft on mine doesn't even have a flat spot.
Did you get it to work. I have installed my kit but the extruder wont feed the filament
@@medvus750 I haven't bought the kit. Does your ender have the pressed gear or were you able to swap to the Kit's gear.
You can buy a new motor for about 10 dollars
@@imapotato5927 True, Adafruit stocks them at $14
Thanks for this guide, just put this extruder on my CR10S5 which came with the same extruder as the Ender 3, I also have a 0.8mm nozzle and a 5kg spool.. So now I have my esteps dialed in 100% thanks to you, looks like my under extrusion issues are a thing of the past.
I am curios, did you notice any diferences in print quality 1 year later after some adjustments and thinkgs like that?
Thanks Chep.
The old one broke off from the idler wheel, the whole section snapped. It wasnt obvious at first because it didnt fall off or anything, it just wasnt extruding anymore.
I went ahead and got the package that included the motor and it was pretty easy to setup, your video helped on the e-steps.
Only small issue so far is the hole scrapes the filament, hopefully it will wear down with usage, it seems it already has started to with just one small print.
Same for me. I also bought a new motor,.because the gear was fixed on the old motor and the shaft of the okd motor did not have the dent for the new gear.
The orange spring that comes with the extruder is the wrong type for this extruder, I've had this extruder for awhile and I'm currently using it as direct drive. Works great but comes with the wrong parts
The spring tension adjustment doesn't work because the spring is the wrong type. You need to use the spring from the original extruder. That's also why the arm is grinding into the base. And you had an issue with slipping. The orange spring puts alot of unnecessary load on the motor and is not good for it in my opinion. Just use the original spring and use the tension adjustment.
Mine just came with this wrong spring, too. I've just used the old one
@@martingerken7094 Yeah unfortunately no one seems to have noticed the issue or cared. Its actually a fantastic extruder upgrade but you need to use the right parts.
Just wanted to say that your videos are amazing! I go straight to your channel whenever I need a solution, or want to find out what's new in the 3d printing world. Keep up the amazing work!
Thank You
So frustrated that I just bought this and have the wrong motor, I don’t even know which motor to buy.
What Printer do you have? Any markings on the motor?
The gear on the lever eventually ground through the bottom plate and fell out of alignment. Can't complain too much. It held up for 3 years, so a few thousand hours of printing. Thanks for all the beautiful prints Chep.
Hi Chep.
The newer ender 3 pro printers have a press fit gear on them now.
What should I do?
I have the same kit.
I'm having this same problem
Not sure. I’m going to look into it.
I wonder if a gear puller would work? Did you find a solution?
Can confirm, the new ender 3 pros have a press fit gear on them. Also, the shaft length was shortened to 12mm instead of the standard 20, requiring you to buy a new motor in order to install the dual gear drive. If the press fit gear is at the very top of the shaft, then it is a 12mm shaft. Learnt this the hard way after sawing off the press fit gear on mine. Thankfully, I was able to use the new gear pushed all the way down with the spring compressed all the way (and tuning the esteps way up to compensate for the smaller circumference) while I wait for a new motor to arrive. :/
Where did you buy it from?
My Ender 3X Pro from Banggood.com came with the removable gear.
Thanks!
I have a regular Ender 3, how would you take the gear off the motor because there are no screws in it
I had the same problem, they say you can heat up the gear then pull it off with the use of a tool and a large quantity of pulling strength. But, I just ended up buying a new motor and gear.
You can not mount the Dual Drive Gear Extruder on the motor with pressed mounted gear, the motor axe is too short. You have to buy new motor with long axe.
@@yurik.3865 What motor did you buy?
@@loganhobbs6910 just look for motor 42-40 mm . I can not write here where to buy- any such comments deleting by tube.
Motor without the gear.
Hi.
Another Great Video,
Just upgraded ender 3 Max, with this Extruder, Worked fine, Only had to Print a 15mm spacer for under the Filament sensor with longer bolts. to keep it inline.
Don't waste time or money on this trash "upgrade". The 2nd drive gear is poorly designed and does not ride on a real bearing like the stock equipment. It shifts around on the screw that holds it and grinds on the aluminum arm. It dose not add anything to print quality and referring to it as an upgrade is false advertisement. Its a down grade from the plastic one Creality sends as stock.
Except the stock plastic ones tend to crack...
CHEP, thank you for this video. I had followed some of your other video guides to print flexible filaments but didn't have any success with the printed extruder mod. I installed the dual gear drive extruder and went back and used your slicer settings and have successfully printed the octopus.
I love how people say ender 3, not ender 3 v2.... thanks for the misinformation
This video is 3 years old...V2 didn't even exist at that time...
@@cxvxcbcxn true, I have a new Ender 3 (not v2) and the 42-40 stepper motor has a shorter shaft and a pressed on gear... while I got the gear off (by destroying it) the shaft is too short for the new gear...now my main printer is down
@@acidnine Same situation, but Ender 3 Pro with 4.2.2. I struggled for a while and then remember I had a gear puller for RC car motors I picked up on Scamazon for 8 bucks and it popped right off.
Great upgrade video, Chuck! I've been getting under-extrusion since I got my Ender 3 and am slowly zeroing it in to perfection with your help! You, Teaching Tech, Maker's Muse, CNC Kitchen and some others that I'm forgetting at the moment have been incredibly awesome in tuning this great machine! Thank you!
That’s great company to be part of. Glad I could help.
Just brought this dual gear extruder based on this video. Have used your other videos for help before. Keep up the good work.
Esteps came out perfectly the first time. Thank you! In the process off printing the first Benchy from my brand new, but heavily modified Ender 3 pro. Dual Gear, direct drive, SKR 1.4 Turbo, Hero me fan mod. My goal was to get as close to a Prusa without spending Prusa money. I think I might have succeeded! Watched your assembly video as well.
How funny. I was just on Amazon to order another extuder for my CR10 mini. This was the first time I've seen a dual gear extruder so I ordered it to give it a try. Then I popped on RUclips and seen you had just done a video on it. Another awesome video my friend.
Great timing
Another thorough and quality video, clearing up FUD as usual... Thanks!!
Really informative! I came for an upgraded extruder review, but it also helped me understand the E-steps calibration process.
I really like the more-edited tutorial format with a voiceover recorded afterwards.
That final estep value was just about what I got with this extruder.
As a new and dedicated follower. I wanted a better extruder, hard to choose when there are always so many negative reviews (even down the comments here). However, you do tend to find this with people at home with different skill levels. When considering how reasonably priced these units are and how easy it would be to replace I can't understand sometimes "why so negative". Followed you through to the end, no mucking about with the numbers as you worked them out.. Rocking! I did find that I had to do some fine-tuning of the bed "again" but am back to pretty decent prints. Congratulations on being the best and most informative "goto" guy. You have made my hobby a lot more enjoyable.
chep i love you, even when i think its impossible that you have the exact same solution that i need here you are, what a rock star!
thank you Chep, I just replaced my motherboard after an extruder driver failure on my ender3 pro and I forgot how to calculate the e steps for this duel gear extruder but remembered u had the go-to video on how to do it thanks again
one of the best upgrades you can do, no more slipping of e-steps
Ahh Chuck, this really helped me solve my flow problem, with that extruder on running on a 42/40 stepper motor on Ender 3 v2, my setting came out at 137.9. It worked perfectly, thank you for posting and sharing! :D
I've used your instructions and a print that turned out misrebly with the old extruder, but is going fantastic with the new one, thank you for making it so much esyer for me.
Glad I could help.
I threw in the towel on this upgrade. Worked like a charm for about 2 weeks before you could just tell it was tearing itself apart. Switched to an EZstruder, which is very smooth! If you do the same, you may need to tune the extruder stepper motor current, just FYI.
If you don't do any other upgrade, do this one it made all the difference to the quality of my ENDER3 MANY THANKS CHUCK great info as usual
Just got my kit today Chuck. You da' man. Thanks for all you do for the hobby.
Excellent tutorial, just got my Ender 3. It was stopping 6mm short, I recalibrated and now its spot on! Thanks!
Chuck an excellent video as always. I installed one of these yesterday as my extruder is probably the only thing giving me issues at the moment. I upgraded to a standard aluminium version of the Creality extruder about a year ago which has been fine for the most part, but still skips more than I'd like. This new Dual Gear extruder seems to be a lot better and after calibrating the E-Steps puts the correct amount of filament through to about 0.4mm accuracy with 100mm of filament.
One thing to note. Anyone with a standard Ender 3 or CR10 should change their retraction settings after fitting this. The standard settings in Cura for the old extruder is 7mm retraction distance and 70mm retraction speed. I usually got good results from that, but since this extruder is very different in design this setting is far too harsh and can grind filament and even cause skipping of the motor.
To get the correct default retraction settings for this extruder I simply added a CR10S Pro into Cura on printers then checked the default standard profile for the retraction settings in there. This is set to 5mm retraction distance and 45mm retraction speed. It makes sense to add that as your starting point, then tweak up or down depending on what you're printing and if you're getting stringing or not, with the aim of getting it as low as possible without stringing. This might also be very different if you have Linear Advance setup correctly and in some cases can mean you need little or no retraction.
Hope this helps
You have a lot of truly excellent videos. To me, this part will be one of those upgrades you do when the OE piece wears out.
Hey Chuck, has anyone ever told you that you sound a lot like Ed O'neill? On a more serious note I just wanted to thank you for all your hard work. Just about every question I've had getting into 3D printing has been answered here on your RUclips channel. Your videos are concise, well executed, and you make the information easily digestible to those who are just getting started. Thanks again, and keep up the great work!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad I could help.
I should have watched this before I changed my extruder over! 1. I have the exact one you've demonstrated, and 2. the other video made no mention of recalibrating eSteps, so I had severe underextrusion all day before light dawned.... and now I know how to mount the spring properly too.....
Great Video! I have had my printer for a couple days now, and was able to upgrade my extruder no problem.
Finally got around to installing this extruder and your video really helped. Thank you very much especially for that e-step formula
I love your videos they are full of details and you explain them clearly so I thank you for your time you give to share them.
I did this upgrade for both Ender 3 Pro and Ender 5. Re-calibrating was definitely necessary. I have maybe 5-60 hours on both extruders now and so far so good! I did as you suggest and use grease around steel/aluminum joins and also a drop of oil on the inner finger bearings.
Thank you very much for this fantastic video which is, even for newcomers, very easy to follow and understand! Changed the Drive Gear and adjusted the filament flow, awesome!
I just got one of those extruders for my Ender 3 V2. The plastic one was cracked and constantly slipped.
I have had the printer for about a year and never calibrated the e- steps before. This is a simple, easy to follow video and I'll finally get it done before my next print.
Ok so just went through this. My e steps were 40mm short. So not even in the same ballpark. Your calculation got it pretty much prefect first try.
Great video! Thank you! My OEM extruder has been clicking for a long time, and yesterday gave up the ghost. I'm ordering this one and will be sure to calibrate it! Thanks, again!
I just got this Today! so stoked to try it! I bought it on impulse. maybe should of watched this first. but, ill watch it now!.. CHEP plz keep ur content rolling. luv it!
This guide is perfect, everytime i have to upgrade an ender 3 i forgot something. So faster to watch this movie than write it up :)
I will be installing this on my ender pro tomorrow. My original one cracked causing bad prints. I picked it up on Amazon for 15 bucks. Thanks chep for the video !
Great video! Do it like this and it will work. Chuck, you should become a teacher, good teaching skill are rare. Thanks.
A true OG, thank you so much for putting this information out there! You make it so clear and simple!
Thanks for this, I just found that my Ender 3 was soooo way off when it comes to Esteps. No wonder I had to keep making the flow set to 155 every time I start a print. Adjusted Esteps to 237.50 mm and now I just print without any changes in configuration anymore. Great video!
U adjusted estepd to 237? U sure that plastic housing of extruder isnt broken?
Had the same prob. But, when I had a lot of retractions. There was no filament coming out.
this double geared extruded worked wonders for me on my CR10 mini, i didn't have to do any other modifications to be able to print tpu and i was very happy about it,
after 3-4 months i started to notice some metal dust at the base of the gear and i didn't think too much about it because it was still printing great, unfortunately after another couple months i started to get tpu filament jammed at every print, in the end turns out that the "movable" gear (the one mounted on the spring arm) had indeed dug itself into the metal at the point that the two gears weren't at the same height anymore...maybe a washer could prevent this?too late for me anyway...I'm switching to a bondtech and see how things will go...
waiting for your video about cura 4.5!!!
thank you for all the help and the great content you provide us
Hey Chep Thanks for the video so i just replaced my motherboard with the silent board and I also installed the duel drive extruder and with a 3d printed direct-drive bracket i modified for the new duel gear extruder and i used a 2 1/2 inch piece of Capricorn tubing and calibrated my esteps the way u showed in this video and i have to thank u big time my ender 3 pro has always printed great but now it's printing on a new level of clean i love this set up thanks for the videos and all the tip and trick you share
The reason you probably didnt see even better print quality is because both were presumably printed at the same print speed. With a more consistent flow you should be able to increase print speed and still get the same quality as you did before. The main issue i seem to have with slippage is either when the roll is getting closer to empty and it is struggling a bit more to turn the spool, and also when printing infill at a high speed.
Great video. I got about 6 months of heavy use from my stock driver on the ender 3 before the slippage got out of hand. Time to upgrade.
Thank you so much for making this video!!! You really helped me with my extrusion issues!!!
Thank You very much for Your work. This video contains all the info needed when looking for a dual-gear extruder on ender 3. Very helpful. Best video on the subject I found so far. Thanks a lot. :)
Biggest improvement people will see with this upgrade is faster print speeds where a lot of filament needs to be pushed through but also with smaller diameter nozzles since they require precise pressure control and you can't get that with stock which slips a lot. Also smaller gears meaning more turning meaning more precision for same filament length.
Hi Chuck - thanks for the review. I've also purchased a dual drive because I thought it might help with jams and tangles on the filament roll, although there's a point where the filament will break, there are times where it should get past a tangle.
In reference to the driven gear cutting into the base, I see that others have also experienced this. And, that a manufacture has reduced the thickness of the base and inserted a washer between the base and the gear. This isn't a bad idea since the gear is steel and and the base is AL, but I think a thrust bearing would be the ideal solution.
I have a lathe, so I just removed the enough material from the gear teeth to prevent them from cutting into the base - I still have the other options if needed.
Thanks for all the useful information that you provide.
This is a great video and very insightful. My gear screws stripped and I think I'll go with this dual gear extruder just for piece of mind, reliability and consistency.
Excellent video. I now understand E-steps. Would be nice to see this same test done with the EZR extruder.
Wasn’t this same test but I covered the EZR in this video: ruclips.net/video/1GNDxvxpWr8/видео.html
Thanks Ceph, your a lifesaver as usual!
This was really helpful, very well laid out and now my extruder is properly extruding
There is one other thing about this feed head* that you never mentioned. It's the reason I bought the same one before even seeing your video. The spot where the filament comes out of the dual gears and enters the hole in the aluminum leading to the PTFE fitting is a nearly true 'v' with no gap. This is the first aluminum extruder I have seen with that full V so I bought it more for the V than I did for the dual gears. (most other aluminum extruders 'flat top' the V creating a small gap between where the filament comes out of the gears to where it goes into the hole in the aluminum)
About a year ago, I bought a direct drive for my Ender 3 and chose one specifically because it came with an aluminum feed head. I had the silver-chrome branded feed head but didn't want to mess it up. I was getting the direct drive to do flexible filament without buckling in the bowden tube and to prevent that buckling from knuckling the filament coming out of the gear. But many recommendations also said to use a feed head with a 'v' that butts right up against the gear with little or no gap. There are models that can be printed on thingiverse, but at the time all I had was PLA and a no-name role of ABS that I still can't get to print right to this day. (too brittle and layer separates constantly)
What I found instead was a suggestion of using an aluminum feed head and drilling a hole through it for a piece of Capricorn PTFE tubing that has the 'v' cut on the end of it.
I've been using that set-up with the aluminum feed head that came with my direct drive mounting bracket for close to a year. But I recently tried printing some 80A filament and find that it's too soft for even that setup. So I ordered one of these feed heads and I'm going to give it a try as soon as my current 18hour print finishes up with the 80A filament to see how it does.
The aluminum 'v' (as opposed to just a piece of capricorn PTFE) should fill the entire gap between the two gears and I'm hoping will prevent this squishy filament from finding a hole out through the side of the gears. And the addition of the pressure fitting should mean there is a more solid channel for half the distance to my hot-end rather than the full distance being nothing but the PTFE. *crosses fingers*
I'll report back after I mount it and try some of the 80A and 85A to comment on my results with this feed head. (I've had no problems printing 90A and above with the PTFE through a standard aluminum feed head btw)
* (I don't like to call them 'extruders' because that gets confusing when you also talk with people about 'extruding' their own filament. I don't really think of it as 'extruding' because it's simply moving the filament along, not necessarily forcing it down the bowden tube. Yeah, it "extrudes" at the hot end nozzle, but that would make the nozzle the "extruder")
initial response. It doesn't fit my direct drive mount. The one I bought is bent in a 'z' type shape to offset the stepper motor with the feed head on the back and there is a hole through the flat section bent outward that you feed the pressure fitting and short piece of PTFE through to the hotend. It would need about 9mm more on the bend due to the slightly increased height of this feed head. I shot a support question to Printermods to see if their mount will work with this dual gear setup. Someone posed the same question on their amazon page and they said they would be posting something to their website to print an additional spacer to fit. Their's uses the same type configuration, but rather than bending the metal to create a mount for the stepper motor, they use offsets and a second piece of metal for the stepper and feed head to mount to. However, by looking at what comes with the kit, the spacers are made for the standard height aluminum heads. I couldn't find a reference to a printable spacer on their website, thus I shot the question to their support.
unfortunately, I could fabricate all but the two posts that stick out to screw the hotend too. or I would just make another version of the one I have. I may look at it again when I get home after the weekend if the printermods version won't work. Otherwise, I suppose my only choice is the micro swiss setup