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Greetings, guys. Lets say that my PC power supply is 1200W and I want the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD which is 1500VA / 1000W. ¿Is it a good choice or I need another UPS that matches the Wattage of my PC power supply? I got a RTX 4090 and Ryzen 9 7950X not sure if a 1000W power supply can handle both. Awaiting answer. Thank you.
The spec of the UPS of course needs to be greater than you computer PSU wattage, otherwise it won't be able to handle the load. So ask yourself, do you really need a 1200w PSU? Nvidia says that 850w will be fine for an RTX 4090. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Got it, that clears my mind about the UPS and PSU needed. The thing is, I’ve paired my 4090 with a Ryzen 9 7950X. Gigabyte recommends a 1000W PSU minimum for the 4090 modelo I own. And aside of that, the CPU needs some extra wattage. That’s why I think I need a 1200W PSU. I’ve read that’s needed to power the system and the other components. ¿Is it right or a 1000W will be enough?
A 4090 official spec has a max of 450 watts, the 7950x has a max of 170 watts. However if you're doing overclocking, 600 watts is the max for a 4090. Combined with the CPU, still under 800 watts. Up to you 😅
Very good review. Additional information: @6:03 "There are two types of UPS" There are three types. The one not mentioned is an "on-line" or "dual conversion" (different names for the same type of UPS). Both a "Standby" and a "Line Interactive" UPS pass power, from your wall's outlet, to your connected equipment. An on-line UPS never does that. Instead, it inverts the wall's AC power to DC power, and then it rectifies that DC power back to AC power. It is that rectified AC power that gets fed to your connected equipment. The above means that your connected equipment never sees any power issues that entered your home. Brand new power is being generated, 100% of the time. Your connected equipment will always be fed that new, clean power. Also, the other types of UPS units take time to switch from wall power to battery power (in the event of an outage). An on-line UPS takes zero time. The UPS models that need to switch do so extremely fast, such that nearly no equipment will have an issue. But nothing beats eliminating having to switch, like an on-line UPS. An on-line UPS will be more expensive (much more expensive). it will also consume a fair amount of electricity, because it takes power for it to do its dual conversion (AC to DC, and DC to AC). It will also make some noise. Chances are, the noise will be quiet. But they are not silent. It will likely not bother you, assuming you could even hear it. Next, note that surge suppression ratings are for new units. As the units remain connected to the public power grid, their metal oxide varistors (MOV) wear out. It is the MOV that absorbs the power surge. Given enough time, the MOV becomes inaffective, and you will not know when (you will get no warning). Depending on its quality, and how often you get hit with surges, it will last between months and years. A $13 power strip from Home Depot, that reads that it protects from power surges, will not do so for long. CyberPower will likely include much beefier MOVs, especially as you move up their line of UPS offerings. Lastly, all batteries eventually die; eventually can no longer be recharged; will no longer hold a charge (consider your smart phone, and how the battery lasts less and less over time). Not all UPS units are designed to have its batteries replaced. The unit (@7:13) might not have a battery replacement option. If that is the case, then in 3 or so years, when the built-in batteries croak, you will have a fancy power strip (it will no longer power any equipment if you have an outage). Whatever UPS you are considering, make sure that it has user-replaceable batteries. @15:23, that 2 hours and 49 minutes is with new batteries. In 2 or 3 years, it will probably be 65% of that time. Maybe more. Maybe less. But a quality UPS should factor in the age of its batteries (or do a proper, automated self test every so often), and allow you to see the run time (so you will be able to see how long your batteries will run your gear on day 1, and after a few years, etc).
Lightning once hit the power pole right behind my house servicing me and 3 other neighbors. Destroyed my internet router. 12 hours of conversation in the dark with my 87 year old mom (with alzheimers) was enough for me to look into getting a ups.
I think the issue was he'd had this conversation many times previously, and now he had at least 11 more of the same. Alzheimers is rough on all family, don't judge.
@@GameGamesGaming-tc8ur Yeah 11.5 hours of my mom asking why the lights are out every 3 minutes because she can't remember asking the same question 3 minutes ago. I've taken care of her for 11 years now. She does much better with the TV and the lights ON. When the house goes dark and silent she's confused and scared. She's not used to a dim house full of candles.
Cheers thanks for that! We worked hard to do all our research and testing, hope it helped you! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Hi and thank you very much for the video! I have really big problems with electric power where I live, it's going off and on for a few seconds and this happens about 3-4 times each day. So I've just ordered a Cyberpower CP1500EPFCLCD and can't wait to use it. Thanks again for this great video! I've never used a UPS before and I like how you have explained here about them😀
Thanks man, this video took about 3 months to put together as we worked with Cyberpower to get a range of UPS units in the studio for testing so we could present some useful info to everyone. Glad it did the job!! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
It have the 1500 and its kicked in during outages 3 times in the last 2 years, flawlessly every time. It also kicks on when the power isn't stable and keeps my stuff working.
Good to hear a positive experience! Usually UPSes are only talked about in disaster scenarios. Our 1000 has kicked on a number of times to smooth out current for us also. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Yeah it is pretty nice got one from Costco the only problem is the lead acid battery it drops from 100% to about 64% in under a minute and then levels off lasts about 40 minutes
13:18 - The RB1280X2B replacement battery you've shown is meant to be used in the original CP1500PFCLCD unit. The replacement battery to use in the redesigned CP1500PFCLCDa unit showcased in this video is the RB1290X2 battery. Take it from someone who owned the original CP1500PFCLCD and currently owns a GX1500U, the latter which is almost identical to the CP1500PFCLCDa.
Ahhhhh that explains the dual battery listing on the page. Wish CP could've made a note for users to find, that would be helpful! Check our Twitter for our current contest giveaway! Don't forget to subscribe and thanks for your support!
been a minute since this comment but im looking into getting a psu from cyberpower. i've narrowed it down to the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD or the CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD3. I plan on using it for my NVR, custom gaming PC, server, and fiber modem, which would you recommend?
First, simulated sine wave UPS's don't work with ALL power supplies, but most of them. I'd actually buy one single AVR UPS first, and see if all your devices work properly when running connected. (1000w in the video is a good starting point). Second, you shouldn't plan to run all those devices on one UPS. One UPS for gaming PC + monitor alone. 'Server' could be anything from a NUC to a standing rack, so if it's big, it should have it's own UPS. If the power draw is small, the server, NVR and modem (and router?) might go on one UPS. Test the power draw on this second UPS, and see if you need a third if the draw is high/runtime is low. I run a 5950x + RTX 3080 and if I'm gaming and my NAS server is on (idling) then my 1000w UPS goes into alarm as I'm pulling too much juice through it. You're looking at 1500w; but maintenance after +5yrs will be ~double, I'd grab 2-3 1000w UPS's for all your equipment. Don't forget- when power goes out, devices on the 'surge only' side will lose power. The more devices hooked into the "battery backup" side will dramatically lower your UPS runtime... by 1/3, 1/2 or more. Choose only the essentials in case of power out, "What is mission critical for my setup?" Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Good effort to give a nice technical review. I wish UPS's were rated in watt/hours like batteries are. Would give us a better feel for how much power it can deliver over time.
Answered in video: ruclips.net/user/liveQoye8hwlXcQ?si=krkipZzjFXaHqoTH&t=4011 UPS batteries are different as they generally use liquid filled batteries unlike Lithium Ion (Li-ion) batteries used in power banks. UPS's also have a decrease in capacity over time after you start using them, and the time they spend sitting on a warehouse shelf before sale is also a factor. So it's unortunately not as easy to quantify performance directly, more of a 'range' of performance. Hope this helps. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Thanks for editing description and responding to earlier comments about how, when and why Pure Sine Wave (instead of simulated Sine Wave) based UPS should be used.
Glad we helped- just don't forget the beep beep sound is telling you there's an issue, either a brownout, overcurrent, or you're pulling too much power through the unit, and I'd resolve that first! Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Hi team, I have had a ton of issues with my power. I have a ryzen 9 7900x that i likely have left undercooled for a while. Well unfortunately that may have come back to haunt me as i am now in the process of trying to get it replaced under warranty for the second time after dying from a random power outage. Normally we only get them in bad weather but this time was nothing like that. How fun!
I just built a sit stand desk and while I was looking at one of these, it would be a pain in the ass to secure it to the bottom of my desk so I'll just go with a nice surge protector.
You're aware they sell 9ft power cables... Right? Super easy solution. My colleague just did this with his standing desk. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
I just bought the CyberPower model LX1500GU. It is 1500VA with 900w, I bought it from Best Buy. It is 2021 Best Buy has a habit of selling discontinued items
While I understand the frustration, UPS devices don't have the same turnover that other components do. However, I'd check manufacture date; batteries have a finite life span so a three year old battery unused won't have the same runtime as a 2020/2021 model. Might wanna think about swapping it for a current model. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Great video! That said, I purchased the CyberPower EC850LCD for my cpu, router, modem, switches. We have a Generac whole home generator. When we lost power recently and the generator kicked on the CyberPower unit turned off. I called CyberPower, could hardly understand the technician, he did say this unit is not compatible with a generator. I also purchased two APC UPS 450VA Battery Backup Surge Protector, BN350M Backup Battery Power Supply for our two TVs. The APC units remained on when the generator turned on. I don't understand this at all.
Sorry to hear about that... I do know that some UPS's are sensitive to generator power, not sure what happened there. These units should kick on in the event you lose power. With the generator working and delivering power to your outlets, these should then turn off. If your generator runs out of fuel and stops delivering power, then the UPS should then start delivering power again. Or perhaps I'm missing something...? It's a bit challenging to figure out what's happening on your side without actually seeing it, but I hope my reply may prove helpful in some way 😅 Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Thank you for this video. It helped me a lot in choosing for a Cyberpower UPS. I would have love to support your channel by using your affiliate links but its cost is more than my local online store.
Thank you both for making this one! You answered all of my questions. I ordered the CP1000AVRLC using your link, liked and subscribed. The main thing I'll be protecting is an old Synology DS211J NAS I bought used recently.
Cool, we did good then! Ya, I have an old DS209 that may still be functioning... need to check haha. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Just did! The thing is I bought a ps5 through a shipping company and it came and kept turning off when there's a small drop in voltage (the ps4 doesn't) so I suspect it requires a certain amount of power
Yeah those brown outs can cause problems, with the potential for corruption or damage too. Having a UPS is great for stability, and protects against brownouts/dips and also surges when the power comes back. Hope this solves the issue for ya!
Don't get the super short/small one. I'd go for the 1000VA model- won't break the bank, decent run time, and maintenance is possible and not as expensive as the larger models.
I would love one but in 12 years of living here, I've had maybe 4 outages. Can't justify the premium just to save maybe 5 minutes of work since that's all you need to do, turn on auto-save every 5 minutes for any project you are working on...
When the power goes out and comes back on, there are dangerous conditions for electronics such as brown-outs (undervoltage) and spikes which UPS devices generally protect against with surge-protection built-in. If your SSD or HDD is being written to when the power goes out, you can also have data corruption, so better have multiple saves handy. For a casual user, data loss isn't great, but for SOHO or small business, this becomes much more relevant. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Well, it has surge protection, so if you want just to store it, you really should by a battery. ups is a battery that protect against power outrage/failure.
The unit stays plugged in, and protects your equipment from surges and dropouts. You shouldn't disconnect power to your PC while running, by pulling it out, or if your electrical grid drops. The unit will help you shut down safely- reasons are in the vid. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
great video... i ordered the 1500VA/1000W model, it looks like it was first introduced on Amazon in 2010. i am surprised theres nothing more new ?? Also the 1500VA/900W model was introduced in 2003, that's crazy there's nothing more new that doesn't cost $1K+? Guess not big enough of a market?
Not sure about the other manufacturers and release dates, but important to note the manufacturer date-batteries do die over time. UPS boxes don't have a lot of tech upgrades except for LCD displays and small improvements in circuitry, so it's not the normal pump and dump model of the tech industry, these boxes are made for the long road. There are much more expensive models for rack mount and server usage though! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
finally i understand this UPS device can really understand it when i search it on google all i saw doesn't answer my question that is, does it protect your computer if there's a voltage spike because of old fridge and you said it.
Answered in video: ruclips.net/video/tpHOv4Nny88/видео.htmlsi=mj_FJz1kqKwFtLLd&t=833 It's important to be clear that no device can protect you 100% from voltage spikes, because large spikes from microwaves and especially condensers like in fridges may damage sensitive electronics like your PC, monitors and TVs. Even over time, I wouldn't trust a UPS to take all those hits without eventually letting some through. The best thing you can do is replace older fridges and freezers with new energy saving ones, or move the PC to a different circuit. And no UPS can mitigate a direct lightning strike. I pull out all my power strips when there's lightning overhead. 😉
I have been using UPS for 25 years and I have never had a small UPS last more then 7-10 min 1500va on power , I have seen my small synology nas batter last for 45 min only because it draws so little wall power The numbers that your giving is from the CO and need to do a real tested your self like system that is running behind you see how long that small ups keeps running
Did you at least watch the TLDR 2:50 before commenting? We ran all our own tests to get these numbers, including what setup/equipment we had hooked up and mentioned that these numbers, of course, decrease over time. UPS devices have come a long way in 25 years, I also remember a 5 minute backup time 20 years ago. Newer devices use their stored energy more efficiently, and PSUs and CPUs have come a long way in power efficiency. Watch and learn! 😃 Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Yeah according to the stamina tests you should get a couple hours minimum out of it, depending what's drawing power. Note that if your neighborhood goes out, and your internet provider's area hub also goes down, that will result in no internet, we mentioned this in the video too.
Love the video, really answers a lot of questions other videos don't! Just curious about picking one, like say you have an 850W PSU and a 50W monitor, would you need to get a 1000W UPS or could you manage with a 500W one with less runtime. Really comparing the wattage of a PSU and UPS can get a bit confusing lol.
Something we found in testing was that the bigger Wattage UPS tend to scale better, in that they will run longer, so 30% more watts appears to last 40% longer. Depends on manufacturer and unit tho. You could certainly get away with a smaller UPS but the runtime will be cut down. Excellent question! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I really liked the video and other than your acoustics (maybe your mic?) It was pretty good production values especially for a small channel. And the info was good too. I do have a serious question though. At the end of all your replies in the comments when you say "dont forget to subscribe and tell your friends, thanks for your support" it's typed exactly the same with punctuation and all. Do you have that on a macro so you don't have to retype it on every reply?
Thanks for the compliments- as for audio, our studio is a smallish concrete box because, Asia, and our next big purchase will be some proper acoustic blankets, many suggest using a Lav mic but we need shotgun mics in our production process. As for your question, we try to answer most questions and this takes up a lot of time, so yes, on Android I use 'Frequent Phrases' with Microsoft SwiftKey, and on desktop I use a Autohotkey combo. And you, please do subscribe to us, too! 😀
The smaller model is probably suitable for your use case. They make the larger ones for more capacity, but also so you can replace the battery-you can't with the smaller version. Please subscribe!
Great video and ton of info. i have 2 concerns .. what would you recommend just for a modem / Router combo and a routing switch - when the power shuts off and second would be for desktop , 2 monitors and hard drive !!
We covered a modem/router combo, a switch won't add much to that, so you can work off the times we did minus about 20% or so, a 600-700w UPS would serve you well. PC side, everything extra you add to a UPS battery backup decreases runtime, so only backup your primary monitor. Runtime, depending on your monitor/PC power draw should be in-line with our results in video. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
1st question: Smart PSU with Active PFC ? How about normal active pfc ? Is seasonic focus gx750 a smart psu with active pfc ? I'm not mocking. I have no idea what a smart psu is. 2nd question: What is a legitimate question to why manufacturers use tiny fans in ups ? Especially online ups ? Is there a law against bigger than 8cm fan ?
they very good i said change battery used deep cycle battery 100A and put cooling fan in usp i have ups 350 wich am testing with deep cycle battery 30A FUSED AND MY DEEP CYCLE BATTERY 12VOLT 100A 30A FUSED
Sounds like a problem there? Pretty sure you can't just swap out parts or kitbash without issues.... Hey, using periods when writing sentences is a skill too ;) Hope you get it sorted. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Well, batteries do run a number of cycles before they die even with daily drains, realistically even car batteries last 1-2 years, though the drain is vastly different. Sorry to hear about your power issues though. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Excellent question! On standby, which is 99% of the time, they're silent. When the power goes out and it kicks on, there's noise as the voltage converter gets used, believe there's a fan for cooling. It's not too noisy, but it's noticeable. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Thank you so much for the fast reply. I'm in Europe and currently trying to get one now, thanks to your video. They have a 780w one here with Pure sine wave, voltage regulation and with my regions plugs and then a few IEC connections. I'm badly in need of one as there are things in my house that cause the power to trip and I work with sensitive data. Thanks again.
I bought two CP 1500s. Didn't have any power outtages for about 6 months, and then as soon as the power flickered, they both cut out, just, off... so I'm not sure what the problem is as these units had never actually been used... really disappointed in this brand...
The key part is you got a brownout, and part of a brownout (lower power) is that the power comes back up, which can cause a spike, or maybe lightning or a spike as grid usage went up. The UPS's may have well saved your connected equipment from getting toasted from a surge. Talk to CyberPower CS, maybe they can help you since it affected two units...? You didn't say if they're dead- if they still work, I'd ask: Were they grounded properly? Need proper grounding to function. Was the wiring correct? Wall->UPS->devices Did you test to make sure they worked? Device on, plugged into charged UPS, pull UPS power from wall, device remains on as UPS takes over JJ, hope this issue doesn't delay your latest podcast of the Bugle. I'll let you know if I spot that wall-crawling menace! Please subscribe!
i have 1500 watts inverter 110V 60Hz 15A 12V inveter i have 4 12V battery 3 are 18A and 1 20A I can run two days with out charger and run 4laptop lol 2 days or more
I would say.... a UPS. A UPS can make sure you stay up, as long as you plug into the the battery backup side of the device. Hope this helps. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Great video! One aspect that wasn't covered is the noise. Are these UPS making any noise? I'm looking at replacing an old APC that's constantly making noise even if it's not using the battery which is highly distracting when working. Are these UPS adding noise when working without relying on battery power? Since these are compact models mean to be close to the computer, I would appreciate to buy one of these units as long as they are not noisy.
These were are dead silent on charging (normal) mode; when operating during a power loss, they do make noise as the DC/AC converter kicks on and generates heat, requiring a fan to cool. Good question. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Great reviews, but i have some questions. I live in a house with 900VA electricity and i'm planning to build a RTX 3060 PC with 650w PSU. what kind of UPS you guys recommend? should i get the 850va or will the 1000va UPS work with my current electricity?
House electricity is rated at 120v or 240v usually. Not sure how you're getting this number...? We'd recommend the 1000VA for reasons we already outlined in the review- decent runtime and replaceable battery etc. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
blog.tripplite.com/what-are-surge-protector-joules-and-how-many-do-i-need And now you know! Obviously we're not talking about a direct strike to equipment. However, a strike to your building or say, the transformer outside can put a big surge on the line. This is how it applies to the situation. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
So far no issues from our testing on in usage, we still have two. Customers need to have realistic expectations, primarily, if you cheap out, you'll get poor runtime/performance. Second, they are rechargeable batteries, and if you know a friend with a motorcycle, they'll tell you you gotta change them after a few years, they don't work well in the cold, and other physical limitations of liquid filled batteries. Any issues we have will be added to our techspinreview.com post and the description here; apart from the power LED issue we mentioned in video, nothing else so far. Good question! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
We've reached out to CyberPower letting them know of consumer issues on the reviews on AmazonUS, so we hope they can address some of these concerns and improve their response to warranty claims. Thanks for bringing this to our attention! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I know this is a bit late and this question may have already been asked and answered but here goes - I think most UPS models are still using SLA batteries. I don't have much experience with UPS units but my experience with SLA batteries is that they really don't like deep discharge too much so I'm thinking that if you did have a power failure and you ran the battery down to the point to where the unit shuts off, that wouldn't be a very happy battery. So I'm curious if your runtime tests were performed more than once (or even twice) and if so, were the results repeatable? IOW, was there significant degradation of the batteries after such a deep discharge? I know the goal is to prevent damage or data loss (that could be costly) but in some cases, replacing these batteries can also add up.
Yes correct, draining the batteries down to zero is not great for this type of battery- this is not the intended purpose for a UPS, which is to allow you to safely shut down your PC and save your work if your house has a power loss. This video already took a month to organize and several days testing and script writing to deliver the important buying points concisely, so apart from multiple tests on the 1000VA model which lives here, we didn't have access to do more. We didn't see noticeable degradation but the nature of Windows means each session will have mildly different power loads. Also; this is how our units performed, your units will perform slightly differently, and the runtime will of course decline as the battery gets older, as is typical with SLA. Indeed, battery replacement is a factor after around 3-5 years deoending in use, which is why we recommend the 1000VA model as its sufficient, user serviceable and has only a single battery to eventually replace. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
The Voltage regulation in your video shows the low-limit to 100V and high limit to 136V, for your tested CP1000AVRLVDa. Was that the tightest band you could choose, and did you see a different range for the CP1500PFCLCD ? I just received my CP1000PFCLCD yesterday, only to find that the model is an older one than advertised (Not the USB charging ports or colored display in front), and in the PowerPanel Voltage settings I can only Choose the lower-limit at max 88 volts and higher-limit at minimum 136 volts. One of my reasons for getting this is also that the mains power here is high, at 130-132 VAC input, and I expected the AVR in this unit to stabilize it to 120 VAC, but so far it seems like when running connected it will just replicate the input (or worse) giving 133V output, and only when pulling the plug for battery will it regulate down to 120VAC.. Is this normal behaviour for all PFC and AVR models, and all UPS in general? ..Do I have to get a separate regulator to put between the mains power and the UPS to achieve a stable 120VAC for my equipment?
If the model is not correct I'd suggest to return it-they should ship you the same one as in the picture. I think you'll need a voltage regulator to change voltages, but have not tested that with a UPS. I'd do a little research first to see if anyone had issues hooking it up like this.
@@Techspin Yes, possibly need to combine with a regular regulator, if they will even regulate down constant high voltages... I thought the line-interactive topologi and the AVR (automatic voltage regulation) of the CP1000PFCLCD (both the old I received and newer version) should mean it actually voltage regulates to the 120V output that it otherwise gives on Battery..
@@Techspin Yes I'm getting it returned. Apparently (according to Costco's supplier) they don't have the newer version in Mexico (so no idea why they market that on their website). Still, I'm confused why also this older ~2017 version does not trigger the AVR when the power is fluctuatig between 127V (mostly 131) and up to 139V.. Only thing when mains goes above 136V (or whichever limit I set, it will trigger the battery function), but with power remaining above 136V for hours at a time that's no solution either. I would expect the Line interactive with "automatic voltage regulation (AVR)" to actually automatically voltage regulate. The Power Panel software also shows the battery having been triggered several times in the last week, but the AVR is never 'triggered'.. weird. Think I might have to go for online/double conversion in this unstable voltage area.
@@Techspin Thanks. Yes my frustration is mainly with CyberPower proclaiming AVR functionality, which it seems their unit does not activate - at least not the model I received. I get the same out as input until it reaches the level for battery. But this is what CyberPower claim on their own website: "Automatic Voltage Regulation Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) in line interactive UPS systems stabilizes the incoming AC signal to maintain output power at a nominal 120 volts by controlling high and low voltages without resorting to battery power. This significantly increases battery life and lessens the likelihood of data loss, memory freezes, and system crashes."
Thanks for this guys, you had me at tips 3&4 :) Hoping this unit is still relevant today and if you'd answer a question. Sitting here, still unopened, is the CP1500PFCLCD I bought for a brand new gaming desktop PC. The PC only required a 750 watt PSU but my parts options at nzxt's custom build was limited - so i got a MSI 1000watt Gold PSU. Did i buy the right size UPS for that PC? I ask bc 'after' I'd already purchased this model, i get a late reply from Cyberpower for a support email i'd sent in. Guess what? They told me I'd need this other model that costs over $600!!! Now, I'm hoping they were just trying to up-sale me and the CP1500PFCLCD will be perfect for my PC. Will it indeed be okay? Thanks guys
While the "VA" is 1500, actual wattage is 1000W. So even with your PC maxing at about 750W, this should be fine. By the way, that's TOTAL wattage... I have a 1000VA/600W model so the alarm went off when my GPU ramped up in Fortnite. By the TOTAL wattage, that's ALL devices plugged into the UPS... so only use this for the PC and a single monitor. Everything else should be plugged somewhere else, not into the unit (even the non-battery protected side). Hope this helps. Please subscribe!
@@Techspin then the man breathed a sigh of relief. I get you on just the PC and monitor on the battery side but why not use the surge only side for modem speakers, etc.? Seems a shame to waste the other outputs. Regardless, i feel secure now about using it for pc and display, thank you very much!
@KingdomUploader For your unit, 1000W is the total power handling of the entire unit, the total draw on ALL sockets. Yeah agreed, a waste of sockets. Spent a good hour rewiring and cable managing under my desk after my home built NAS kept tripping the UPS alarm during gaming.
A computer just playing RUclips runs anywhere from 60-80 watts draw, and a large TV is roughly similar, a little less. Based on the tests we ran, you can expect slightly more time, but not much. Keep in mind these are day one tests, and in the future the running time will get shorter due to battery age and recharge cycle capacity getting smaller. Also to maximize run time, you'd need a separate UPS to power whatever device is feeding the TV, whether it's a modem/router and gaming console or such. Please subscribe!
Yes it's designed to also clean the power, also handling surges and droops in the power which can damage electronics. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Very interesting video. Which type of electronics are sensitive to simulated/pure sine waves. Do gaming consoles reduce their life expectancy if they are powered by simulated sine waves?
Computers are more complicated and susceptible to issues, yes? So having game consoles protected shouldn't reduce life at all. As mentioned in the video, audio production equipment is most likely to experience a whine or noise with simulated sine waves, should be zero with pure sine waves. We listened to our PCs carefully during testing and didn't hear any whine/noise through audio though. Excellent question. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Wow, yeah, this is correct. Most general power supplies don't have PFC, but newer 'Smart' PSU's offer active PFC. We did a TON of research and testing for this video, but this did slip through our net. Updating video description and techspinreview.com post with this information. For those interested, the PFC Sinewave page on Cyberpower also states this is needed here: www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/pfc-sinewave/
The 1500AVRLCD cannot be used if the mains power is not present (?) So in the event of a mains power failure the UPS cannot be used to run you computer because it cannot be turned on
Incorrect. If installed properly, it will remain charged and automatically switch over to backup power. In case of an outage, when mains power fails. We tested it, and yes it works. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Thank you for replying. It seems I may having missed something. I will have another look my new UPS and double check that I know what I’m doing ! Thanks….
Computer and monitor plugged into "Battery+surge" side of the UPS. "Surge" alone does NOT provide battery backup in case of a power out. Then connect UPS to a grounded outlet. Hope this helps
@@Techspin I have retested the Cyberpower UPS. This time it did work with no mains input. I plugged in some small devices into the battery backed up outlets and the was able to turn on the UPS and run the devices. Backup time was only 450 minutes !! ( very pleased ) I do intend to use the unit disconnected from the mains mains from time to time in an out building. Should I provide a earth connection via a ground spike ?
If you watch the video, we cover this point. Appliances especially ones with compressors like AC, fridges should not be plugged in. That's a quick way to kill a UPS. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
YES to all accept the air conditioner because they draw so much power. An AC would probably run just fine for about a minute on the true sine wave (1500) version. The true sine wave ups will run fans and other things with high-voltage motors perfectly on battery until it dies. As far as all other high-end equipment, (TVs, home theater, wifi, etc.) using the 1500, I was able to run my whole system (at normal volume) on battery for over an hour before full discharge. I love it.
I have a pc gaming need 700W & I have ps5 with tv which ups is good for me for all of that in same time I play on of them in one time ! Which ups is good to me ❤
Since the gaming PC is 700w, you'll need two units as the PC + PS5 + TV will likely cause an alarm on the UPS as it'll trigger protection due to too much current draw. The same one we recommended in the episode, the 1000W version, will be suitable for this. Hope this helps. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Hi! If my computer PSU and monitor consumes around 790watts..What is the advisable VA of the UPS that should be considered? Thanks Or since im not into the back up battery, would a simple AVR without UPS suffice?
It's on standby until the power goes out. You can test if it's working properly by powering up your PC, then pulling the power cable to the UPS. If wired properly, the UPS will immediately switch and start powering your PC. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
CP1500EPFCLCD has Pure Sine wave output which you may need for audio equipment and USB charging. VP1600ELCD is 'generator compatible (?) as well as having a slightly bigger battery. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I need a UPS which would provide my computer a healthy pure-sine wave. What terms do I have to look for when buying me a UPS ? Do all UPSs provide pure-sine wave or is it only the case for line interactive UPS ? What are double- conversion UPS ? Please help me out, I'd really appreciate it
We cover all that in the video except for double conversion UPS devices. Have a watch and a Google! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Hi, I’m not tech savvy on this but I would very much like some advice on a problem I have. Whenever I get the slightest power glitch in my house I lose my wi fi signal. This glitch may only last for a split second. Sometimes it takes a while to get things re connected back to wi fi. I’m thinking I only need a backup for my AT and T modem/Router and a separate Nighthawk Router. Would the backup keep the modem and routers going through this very fast glitch? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks
A UPS should mitigate power fluctuations so should help with this problem IF it's being caused by the power fluctuating. If you see your wifi network disappear (not available in the list) then most likely yes. If your network remains bit there's no connection, the upchannel (provider's cable to your area) may be losing power for a moment and stopping communication, nothing you can do about that in your home but can contact them to complain and get that fixed.
TV yes, appliances generally no, though if you have a DC-type fan, you might get away with it if it's on low setting. An AC fan draws a lot of power, usually 25w or so on low but the motor sends spikes on the current. A DC fan can run as low as 5w to 15w and less spiky for power draw. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Hello, I bought a new rig (I’m a 3D artist) with 3 x 4090, Threadripper 5997wx and 256 ram. The tech that build the rig recommended me 2 x 1500 va and told me the following: “Just let them know full power draw on each 1600 w psu is around 1000w” I should be good with 2 of these cyber power 1500va? I also readed that are online and offline ups, bit lost here and want to protect the new rig as much as possible, spent 15k on it. Thanks!
Note the "VA" is not the same as wattage so you'd need to carefully research the output of a few higher end models, and consider brand alternates also like APC. I have a built NAS and a gaming PC (5950X, 3080) on one CP 1000VA- when gaming, it trips the alarm and triggers the UPS to run. So probably figure one extra, small UPS for a monitor and accessories. With that kind of power draw, the batteries will deplete quickly so if power goes out, expect to stop your render and safely shut down until power comes back up. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Great video guys! Ive been looking for a comprehensive review on these. I'll be getting the small one for my network and you think it's advisable to just go all out for my laptop and monitor for maximum uptime incase of an outage (for work not gaming so it's mostly video calls and stuff)? There's a 1500VA 900w model in my area
The bigger the battery, the longer uptime you'll get. Another thing is batteries lose life over time, so a couple years down the road, the bigger battery is still better than the now really short lifespan smaller one. That being said, replacement costs are also an issue, and it depends how often you get brown or blackouts in your area. We use a 1000VA, it's a good balance between all values, especially since you're using a laptop, a lot less power draw. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Already did my man and thanks for the advise and yes speaking of battery everything degrades in time,with that said it is expected for batteries to last 2 yeard if you get 3 or more then youre fortunate. By that time though I dont think there might be a replacement battery for the ups or it might be cheaper to get a new. Id rather get a new one if that is the case and thanks man,will be getting one soon! Looking forward to your next reviews!
you buy a 2000 watts inverter for 209.00 off amazon deep cycle battery 12 volt 75 amp 900 watts it run very long hour love your video but i would spend money on something that will last you long times light out for like a day
You forgot the "ask you to come over to assemble it" part, plus the donor power strip with surge protection, additional extension cord wiring and solder+gun. And time. 😅 Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
We also learned a tremendous amount while researching and making this video too. Glad it was educational! 😁 Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
If power outage time exceeds battery capacity and unit shuts down and power comes back on some time later, the unit does not power back on automatically right?
Had to check the script to refresh my memory- while we didn't say it in video, to the best of my memory, when the unit is drained and off and starts receiving power again, it *should* come back on and start charging again. If the USB is connected to your PC, it likely won't come back on as the USB sends a command to shut down instead of (without a UPS) the power simply being cut- if the power is cut it can trigger the BIOS "resume from power loss". This won't happen with a UPS + USB connected though, and you really do want shutdown to happen to protect your data. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I'm a home user running 2 4 bay NAS ( one QNAP and a Synology ) that I want to protect. I'm still trying to figure out what the "Intelligent" model Cyberpower UPS's offer and would the average home user need one. Certainly one of the best videos on this subject and this brand. Many thanks.
Love the thought put into the comments on this vid, really inspiring! Yeah the options/offerings can be a bit overwhelming, especially with the 100s of models listed on CP's website. Basically, the latest UPS devices have some USB information they can pass to your PC or NAS, where you can control some of the shutdown options. We touch on the Windows app PowerPanel Personal in the video, but for a Synology or QNAP box, you'll need to see what's available/how each system handles a connected UPS. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
ive been looking at these for a while but every single one i find in the uk have "kettle plugs" (as we call them here, the shape of what the psu plug sockets are) rather then standard uk plugs which is a pain to work with as means special cables and convertors for monitors internet router etc - only ones that use UK outlets are the basic ones that maybe give you 10 minutes of backup.
It might be worth an email to CyberPower CS, maybe they're missing an opportunity here. I'd try to explain it but even after looking at a YT vid on different British plugs, not sure what the issue is. *big fan of all things British, Monty Python, Top Gear etc hehe
All these can support high draw electronics, you're spending basically on time. The 1000w is a good trade between time and battery, and costs less than the larger model to service. If you're gaming, backup just the TV and console so you can save. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Thought we gave recommendations in the episode! Go with those. Bigger batteries won't die as quickly/easily in average as smaller ones, will last longer (stamina) over time. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I noticed during the video you mentioned adapters you could buy. I live in Denmark so I have to use adaptors from European schuko to Danish plugs, can I use any adapter or do I have to use Cyberpower?
I mentioned extensions, just lengthen wire runs or make it easier to plug in large adapters side by side that wouldn't fit directly plugged into the UPS. Any brand extension will be okay as long as it's rated for the load; I just buy the thickest (lowest AWG) possible so I don't have to worry. Hope this helps. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
excuse me,i'm not going to use my pc 24hrs..i run my pc mostly from 8am to 12pm at night..so do i need to just turn off everything from the wall socket or just shut down my pc? thanks in advance..
UPS devices are designed to be directly connected to the wall. From APC's website: "Plugging your UPS into a surge protector: In order for your UPS to get the best power available, you should plug your UPS directly into the wall receptacle. Plugging your UPS into a surge protector may cause the UPS to go to battery often when it normally should remain online." Even though the source is old, the basics of how a UPS functions still apply. Hope this helps. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
1) No all caps please. 2) It depends on how much time you need to shut down your PC safely, and of course, if you have a normal or high end PC. If you just need a few minutes to save your work, most UPS devices will do that for you. If you have a higher end PC or intend to work for longer off of battery, consider a higher capacity UPS. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I still do ESL teaching too 😀 That will be plenty for an iPad, though likely you'll be powering a home router yes? If it's just those two things, should have it covered, check our network duration tests for an idea of what to expect. More items plugged into the battery side (turn on, drawing power) will cut down the runtime though. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Yes, always connected in a chain: Power comes from the wall into the UPS, where you plug in the PC or device you want protected. They're designed to guard against power surges and drops this way. There's very little power consumed on standby, and makes sure you can shutdown safely, avoiding loss of work or OS corruption. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I'd actually suggest a more mid-tier 1000VA or so model- you get protection, run-time, and it doesn't cost as much up front or with eventual maintenance. It should allow you enough time to finish/save your game, unless you're doing Fortnite or something online. In that case you'd need to backup your modem/router too, but still have the chance of going offline if the neighborhood Upchannel loses power. Hope this helps, please subscribe!
I'm looking into a UPS because I have a NAS. You mentioned software to can used to shutdown equipment. Do you have more videos on how to set something like that up? Can you program to start the shutdown once the battery drops below a certain threshold? Do any of these UPS have the ability to email or have a outage to notify an event while your away?
That free software is Power Panel Personal, has a few settings to allow adjustment. You can download it and play around with the interface without a UPS connected. I see an email notification area in the software... We don't have plans to make a video on this at the current time, views for such a video would be very low, albeit helpful to a few! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Not sure if the charging circuit is suitable for that charging requirement. Sounds dangerous IMHO. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Uključivali smo uređaje u UPS. Pomislili biste da bismo mogli pokazati kako je UPS priključen na strujnu traku; ne biste trebali koristiti power bar, već priključite UPS izravno u zid. Mogli smo ipak pokazati priključenje UPS-a na zid! Ne zaboravite se pretplatiti i reći svojim prijateljima da nam pomognu rasti! Hvala na podršci! 🙂 Croatian viewer, he wanted to show us connecting the 'chain'. We showed connecting devices to the UPS. You should NOT connect a UPS to a power strip, plug the UPS directly into the wall. However, we could show plugging the UPS into the wall, I guess!
It's covered in the review, have a watch 😉 but yes, that, and data corruption and protection from power surges are some of the features. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Hi, your video is great but i have a question. Currently i have the Cyberpower 750 which has run just fine. However, I recently upgraded my PC to a 4080 and a 1000 W psu. The current UPS still works on the whole set up, including when im gaming, and streaming. The issue comes when I want to crank up the graphics to utilize the GPU and then it gives me a really long beep (which im guessing is its way of telling me that im drawing to much power). I have to quickly tune all the graphics back down to get it to stop. What I'm hoping is that if I upgrade to the 1500 model and run only the PC off that, and then all my proliffials off the 750 will I be able to crank up my graphics without it triggering the alarm and auto shut down? I'm aware that the battery backup part of this will only give me somewhere between 1-2 minutes to shut down, Thats the big reason I got the 750 originally, and that has saved my PC several times over the last year. So I'm not hoping for more battery time as 2 mins is enough time for me to properly shut down, but i do need the UPS to not trigger its saftey features for intensive gaming (otherwise i bought all these upgrades...for no reason.)
Yeah plan to get a UPS over the total PSU wattage, and run everything else from another UPS or outlet, that sounds correct. As for the spec of 1500w UPS for a 1000w PSU, it's over by 33% and should be fine BUT we haven't tested this. My best guess is should be fine, but you may want to contact CS if in doubt. Hope it works! Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
You heard half of what we said, but it's still a great question! You shouldn't use compressor units or big heaters/hairdryers on a UPS unit due to the spike sent through the line when the unit kicks on. PCs are sensitive equipment, and they generally ramp up and down fairly smoothly, without the spikes that compressors usually generate when they turn on. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin ok that makes a lot more sense now! thank you for explaining to me :) I'm new to UPS' and I am doing some research into them before buying them. I had a power cut recently and it took multiple repeats of unplugging my PC and holding the power button for 30 seconds before it would load past the post beep
Occasionally if the power drops suddenly, the motherboard can get caught in a POST loop. Strangely, we've often found removing and reinserting the RAM (with power disconnected) often works. Hope everything is running well now for ya!
Depends on how many watts the TV pulls, and unless you're playing off a USB or maybe a laptop, nothing else will work. Best to see our estimates, figure a half-way result, and minus 10% from that, that should give a good estimate. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@Techspin if my PSU is 1000 watts, but my PC build's parts only totals around 550-600 watts usage. Would I need 1000 Watts UPS or 600 Watts UPS? For those wondering why I bought a 1000 Watts PSU, I got for the same price as a 650 Watt version.
You need one minimum 10% higher, as sometimes the GPU will spike then settle at 100% draw. Also, don't forget your monitor will add another 30~50w of draw. I'd say go for the larger model, it'll also provide longer run time, which gets shortened with battery life. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Would you say a CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W is enough or too much? I've been telling my friends about your videos. Thank you. 🙂
Depends on how long you need it to run for, really. The CP1000 model should be plenty, PFC is not really needed but nice to have, though for longer runtime the CP1500 is better-however the 4-5 year maintenance is more costly. Thanks for the sub and shares!
My computer's 1000w power supply just died yesterday, buying those UPS here will be like 4 times the cost in Canada or USA, now I'm wishing I lived in either Canada or USA. Just searched about them and realized that I'm in big trouble. I ignored a UPS for so long and now I just have to pay the price.
Well if you're running an office PC, you could easily get away with a 450w PSU, even gaming is 750w to 850w max, those can still be somewhat affordable if you shop around. Amazon generally has decent shipping rates... Or find a friend to import one for you! Wishing you luck. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
which catch fire and which dont, which will cut power from random errors, which will make annoying buzzing sound with time, and which actually make a true useable sinewave?? lol
The modem should use more like 0.5 to 1 amp in normal usage, and this should be less than your generator's charging. You could try connecting it for a day and monitoring the generator's charge, of course if your gen's manual says running devices off of it long term is okay. I'd monitor charge usage over a week or month, and you'll have your answer. Nice question! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
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Greetings, guys. Lets say that my PC power supply is 1200W and I want the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD which is 1500VA / 1000W. ¿Is it a good choice or I need another UPS that matches the Wattage of my PC power supply? I got a RTX 4090 and Ryzen 9 7950X not sure if a 1000W power supply can handle both. Awaiting answer. Thank you.
The spec of the UPS of course needs to be greater than you computer PSU wattage, otherwise it won't be able to handle the load. So ask yourself, do you really need a 1200w PSU? Nvidia says that 850w will be fine for an RTX 4090. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Got it, that clears my mind about the UPS and PSU needed. The thing is, I’ve paired my 4090 with a Ryzen 9 7950X. Gigabyte recommends a 1000W PSU minimum for the 4090 modelo I own. And aside of that, the CPU needs some extra wattage. That’s why I think I need a 1200W PSU. I’ve read that’s needed to power the system and the other components. ¿Is it right or a 1000W will be enough?
A 4090 official spec has a max of 450 watts, the 7950x has a max of 170 watts. However if you're doing overclocking, 600 watts is the max for a 4090. Combined with the CPU, still under 800 watts. Up to you 😅
Very good review.
Additional information:
@6:03 "There are two types of UPS"
There are three types. The one not mentioned is an "on-line" or "dual conversion" (different names for the same type of UPS).
Both a "Standby" and a "Line Interactive" UPS pass power, from your wall's outlet, to your connected equipment.
An on-line UPS never does that. Instead, it inverts the wall's AC power to DC power, and then it rectifies that DC power back to AC power. It is that rectified AC power that gets fed to your connected equipment.
The above means that your connected equipment never sees any power issues that entered your home. Brand new power is being generated, 100% of the time. Your connected equipment will always be fed that new, clean power.
Also, the other types of UPS units take time to switch from wall power to battery power (in the event of an outage). An on-line UPS takes zero time.
The UPS models that need to switch do so extremely fast, such that nearly no equipment will have an issue. But nothing beats eliminating having to switch, like an on-line UPS.
An on-line UPS will be more expensive (much more expensive). it will also consume a fair amount of electricity, because it takes power for it to do its dual conversion (AC to DC, and DC to AC).
It will also make some noise. Chances are, the noise will be quiet. But they are not silent. It will likely not bother you, assuming you could even hear it.
Next, note that surge suppression ratings are for new units. As the units remain connected to the public power grid, their metal oxide varistors (MOV) wear out. It is the MOV that absorbs the power surge. Given enough time, the MOV becomes inaffective, and you will not know when (you will get no warning). Depending on its quality, and how often you get hit with surges, it will last between months and years.
A $13 power strip from Home Depot, that reads that it protects from power surges, will not do so for long. CyberPower will likely include much beefier MOVs, especially as you move up their line of UPS offerings.
Lastly, all batteries eventually die; eventually can no longer be recharged; will no longer hold a charge (consider your smart phone, and how the battery lasts less and less over time).
Not all UPS units are designed to have its batteries replaced.
The unit (@7:13) might not have a battery replacement option. If that is the case, then in 3 or so years, when the built-in batteries croak, you will have a fancy power strip (it will no longer power any equipment if you have an outage). Whatever UPS you are considering, make sure that it has user-replaceable batteries.
@15:23, that 2 hours and 49 minutes is with new batteries. In 2 or 3 years, it will probably be 65% of that time. Maybe more. Maybe less. But a quality UPS should factor in the age of its batteries (or do a proper, automated self test every so often), and allow you to see the run time (so you will be able to see how long your batteries will run your gear on day 1, and after a few years, etc).
Lightning once hit the power pole right behind my house servicing me and 3 other neighbors. Destroyed my internet router. 12 hours of conversation in the dark with my 87 year old mom (with alzheimers) was enough for me to look into getting a ups.
So you'd have 11.5 hours of conversation in the dark with the woman who gave you life?
I think the issue was he'd had this conversation many times previously, and now he had at least 11 more of the same. Alzheimers is rough on all family, don't judge.
@@GameGamesGaming-tc8ur Yeah 11.5 hours of my mom asking why the lights are out every 3 minutes because she can't remember asking the same question 3 minutes ago. I've taken care of her for 11 years now. She does much better with the TV and the lights ON. When the house goes dark and silent she's confused and scared. She's not used to a dim house full of candles.
@@TechspinExactly 💯
This is the only review needed for these products
Cheers thanks for that! We worked hard to do all our research and testing, hope it helped you! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Hi and thank you very much for the video! I have really big problems with electric power where I live, it's going off and on for a few seconds and this happens about 3-4 times each day. So I've just ordered a Cyberpower CP1500EPFCLCD and can't wait to use it. Thanks again for this great video! I've never used a UPS before and I like how you have explained here about them😀
Thanks man, this video took about 3 months to put together as we worked with Cyberpower to get a range of UPS units in the studio for testing so we could present some useful info to everyone. Glad it did the job!! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Best UPS basics video on RUclips!!
Cheers for that, we really wanted to cover all the bases. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
It have the 1500 and its kicked in during outages 3 times in the last 2 years, flawlessly every time. It also kicks on when the power isn't stable and keeps my stuff working.
Good to hear a positive experience! Usually UPSes are only talked about in disaster scenarios. Our 1000 has kicked on a number of times to smooth out current for us also. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Yeah it is pretty nice got one from Costco the only problem is the lead acid battery it drops from 100% to about 64% in under a minute and then levels off lasts about 40 minutes
Important to limit the items you have on the battery backup side so it will stay on longer in case of a power failure.
@@Techspin Of course
13:18 - The RB1280X2B replacement battery you've shown is meant to be used in the original CP1500PFCLCD unit. The replacement battery to use in the redesigned CP1500PFCLCDa unit showcased in this video is the RB1290X2 battery. Take it from someone who owned the original CP1500PFCLCD and currently owns a GX1500U, the latter which is almost identical to the CP1500PFCLCDa.
Ahhhhh that explains the dual battery listing on the page. Wish CP could've made a note for users to find, that would be helpful! Check our Twitter for our current contest giveaway! Don't forget to subscribe and thanks for your support!
been a minute since this comment but im looking into getting a psu from cyberpower. i've narrowed it down to the CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD or the CyberPower CP1500AVRLCD3. I plan on using it for my NVR, custom gaming PC, server, and fiber modem, which would you recommend?
First, simulated sine wave UPS's don't work with ALL power supplies, but most of them. I'd actually buy one single AVR UPS first, and see if all your devices work properly when running connected. (1000w in the video is a good starting point).
Second, you shouldn't plan to run all those devices on one UPS. One UPS for gaming PC + monitor alone. 'Server' could be anything from a NUC to a standing rack, so if it's big, it should have it's own UPS. If the power draw is small, the server, NVR and modem (and router?) might go on one UPS. Test the power draw on this second UPS, and see if you need a third if the draw is high/runtime is low.
I run a 5950x + RTX 3080 and if I'm gaming and my NAS server is on (idling) then my 1000w UPS goes into alarm as I'm pulling too much juice through it. You're looking at 1500w; but maintenance after +5yrs will be ~double, I'd grab 2-3 1000w UPS's for all your equipment.
Don't forget- when power goes out, devices on the 'surge only' side will lose power. The more devices hooked into the "battery backup" side will dramatically lower your UPS runtime... by 1/3, 1/2 or more. Choose only the essentials in case of power out, "What is mission critical for my setup?" Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Wow, that was the best explanation for a UPS i ever saw. Thank you
Glad to be of service. 😊
Good effort to give a nice technical review. I wish UPS's were rated in watt/hours like batteries are. Would give us a better feel for how much power it can deliver over time.
Answered in video: ruclips.net/user/liveQoye8hwlXcQ?si=krkipZzjFXaHqoTH&t=4011
UPS batteries are different as they generally use liquid filled batteries unlike Lithium Ion (Li-ion) batteries used in power banks. UPS's also have a decrease in capacity over time after you start using them, and the time they spend sitting on a warehouse shelf before sale is also a factor. So it's unortunately not as easy to quantify performance directly, more of a 'range' of performance. Hope this helps. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Thanks for editing description and responding to earlier comments about how, when and why Pure Sine Wave (instead of simulated Sine Wave) based UPS should be used.
Yeah, we thought we covered it okay in the video, but sometimes it helps to be really specific, and we do our best to be helpful 😉
Thank you so much for your help! I was able to turn off that annoying beep beep sound
Glad we helped- just don't forget the beep beep sound is telling you there's an issue, either a brownout, overcurrent, or you're pulling too much power through the unit, and I'd resolve that first! Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Hi team, I have had a ton of issues with my power. I have a ryzen 9 7900x that i likely have left undercooled for a while. Well unfortunately that may have come back to haunt me as i am now in the process of trying to get it replaced under warranty for the second time after dying from a random power outage. Normally we only get them in bad weather but this time was nothing like that. How fun!
I just built a sit stand desk and while I was looking at one of these, it would be a pain in the ass to secure it to the bottom of my desk so I'll just go with a nice surge protector.
You're aware they sell 9ft power cables... Right? Super easy solution. My colleague just did this with his standing desk. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
I just bought the CyberPower model LX1500GU. It is 1500VA with 900w, I bought it from Best Buy. It is 2021 Best Buy has a habit of selling discontinued items
While I understand the frustration, UPS devices don't have the same turnover that other components do. However, I'd check manufacture date; batteries have a finite life span so a three year old battery unused won't have the same runtime as a 2020/2021 model. Might wanna think about swapping it for a current model. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Good video fellas. Appreciate your in-depth analysis
Thanks, we did a bunch of research, hope it helps you! Please subscribe!
Great video! That said, I purchased the CyberPower EC850LCD for my cpu, router, modem, switches. We have a Generac whole home generator. When we lost power recently and the generator kicked on the CyberPower unit turned off. I called CyberPower, could hardly understand the technician, he did say this unit is not compatible with a generator. I also purchased two APC UPS 450VA Battery Backup Surge Protector, BN350M Backup Battery Power Supply for our two TVs. The APC units remained on when the generator turned on. I don't understand this at all.
Sorry to hear about that... I do know that some UPS's are sensitive to generator power, not sure what happened there. These units should kick on in the event you lose power. With the generator working and delivering power to your outlets, these should then turn off. If your generator runs out of fuel and stops delivering power, then the UPS should then start delivering power again. Or perhaps I'm missing something...?
It's a bit challenging to figure out what's happening on your side without actually seeing it, but I hope my reply may prove helpful in some way 😅 Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Thank you for this video. It helped me a lot in choosing for a Cyberpower UPS. I would have love to support your channel by using your affiliate links but its cost is more than my local online store.
Glad we could help, and hope you got the UPS you need! No problem, I'm first a consumer myself so I understand. 🙂 Please support us with a subscribe!
You used pure sine wave inverter 1000 or 500 watts with 2 12V lithium battery 50A or 100A and run much longer than those
Very informative thanks sir. Any recommendation for a 75inch 4k tv? What is recommended va for this?
Thank you both for making this one! You answered all of my questions. I ordered the CP1000AVRLC using your link, liked and subscribed. The main thing I'll be protecting is an old Synology DS211J NAS I bought used recently.
Cool, we did good then! Ya, I have an old DS209 that may still be functioning... need to check haha. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Best UPS guide EVER!!!!!!!!
Glad you found it helpful! Please do subscribe!
Just did!
The thing is I bought a ps5 through a shipping company and it came and kept turning off when there's a small drop in voltage (the ps4 doesn't) so I suspect it requires a certain amount of power
Yeah those brown outs can cause problems, with the potential for corruption or damage too. Having a UPS is great for stability, and protects against brownouts/dips and also surges when the power comes back. Hope this solves the issue for ya!
I'm contemplating on which to purchase
Don't get the super short/small one. I'd go for the 1000VA model- won't break the bank, decent run time, and maintenance is possible and not as expensive as the larger models.
I would love one but in 12 years of living here, I've had maybe 4 outages. Can't justify the premium just to save maybe 5 minutes of work since that's all you need to do, turn on auto-save every 5 minutes for any project you are working on...
When the power goes out and comes back on, there are dangerous conditions for electronics such as brown-outs (undervoltage) and spikes which UPS devices generally protect against with surge-protection built-in. If your SSD or HDD is being written to when the power goes out, you can also have data corruption, so better have multiple saves handy. For a casual user, data loss isn't great, but for SOHO or small business, this becomes much more relevant. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Great video, well explained. Do you keep the UPS plugged in daily? Or, can it be stored away, fully charged, until it's ready for use?
Well, it has surge protection, so if you want just to store it, you really should by a battery. ups is a battery that protect against power outrage/failure.
The unit stays plugged in, and protects your equipment from surges and dropouts. You shouldn't disconnect power to your PC while running, by pulling it out, or if your electrical grid drops. The unit will help you shut down safely- reasons are in the vid. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
great video... i ordered the 1500VA/1000W model, it looks like it was first introduced on Amazon in 2010. i am surprised theres nothing more new ?? Also the 1500VA/900W model was introduced in 2003, that's crazy there's nothing more new that doesn't cost $1K+? Guess not big enough of a market?
Not sure about the other manufacturers and release dates, but important to note the manufacturer date-batteries do die over time. UPS boxes don't have a lot of tech upgrades except for LCD displays and small improvements in circuitry, so it's not the normal pump and dump model of the tech industry, these boxes are made for the long road. There are much more expensive models for rack mount and server usage though! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
finally i understand this UPS device can really understand it when i search it on google all i saw doesn't answer my question that is, does it protect your computer if there's a voltage spike because of old fridge and you said it.
Answered in video: ruclips.net/video/tpHOv4Nny88/видео.htmlsi=mj_FJz1kqKwFtLLd&t=833
It's important to be clear that no device can protect you 100% from voltage spikes, because large spikes from microwaves and especially condensers like in fridges may damage sensitive electronics like your PC, monitors and TVs. Even over time, I wouldn't trust a UPS to take all those hits without eventually letting some through. The best thing you can do is replace older fridges and freezers with new energy saving ones, or move the PC to a different circuit. And no UPS can mitigate a direct lightning strike. I pull out all my power strips when there's lightning overhead. 😉
I have been using UPS for 25 years and I have never had a small UPS last more then 7-10 min 1500va on power , I have seen my small synology nas batter last for 45 min only because it draws so little wall power The numbers that your giving is from the CO and need to do a real tested your self like system that is running behind you see how long that small ups keeps running
Did you at least watch the TLDR 2:50 before commenting? We ran all our own tests to get these numbers, including what setup/equipment we had hooked up and mentioned that these numbers, of course, decrease over time. UPS devices have come a long way in 25 years, I also remember a 5 minute backup time 20 years ago. Newer devices use their stored energy more efficiently, and PSUs and CPUs have come a long way in power efficiency. Watch and learn! 😃 Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I have the 850 VA. I wonder if that’s enough. My husband says it would buy me enough time for him to fire up his generator. 🤷♀️
Yeah according to the stamina tests you should get a couple hours minimum out of it, depending what's drawing power. Note that if your neighborhood goes out, and your internet provider's area hub also goes down, that will result in no internet, we mentioned this in the video too.
Love the video, really answers a lot of questions other videos don't! Just curious about picking one, like say you have an 850W PSU and a 50W monitor, would you need to get a 1000W UPS or could you manage with a 500W one with less runtime. Really comparing the wattage of a PSU and UPS can get a bit confusing lol.
Something we found in testing was that the bigger Wattage UPS tend to scale better, in that they will run longer, so 30% more watts appears to last 40% longer. Depends on manufacturer and unit tho. You could certainly get away with a smaller UPS but the runtime will be cut down. Excellent question! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I really liked the video and other than your acoustics (maybe your mic?) It was pretty good production values especially for a small channel. And the info was good too. I do have a serious question though. At the end of all your replies in the comments when you say "dont forget to subscribe and tell your friends, thanks for your support" it's typed exactly the same with punctuation and all. Do you have that on a macro so you don't have to retype it on every reply?
Thanks for the compliments- as for audio, our studio is a smallish concrete box because, Asia, and our next big purchase will be some proper acoustic blankets, many suggest using a Lav mic but we need shotgun mics in our production process. As for your question, we try to answer most questions and this takes up a lot of time, so yes, on Android I use 'Frequent Phrases' with Microsoft SwiftKey, and on desktop I use a Autohotkey combo. And you, please do subscribe to us, too! 😀
Why are they all so bulky? I just need a small one for my nas drive to properly shut down when there's a power outage.
The smaller model is probably suitable for your use case. They make the larger ones for more capacity, but also so you can replace the battery-you can't with the smaller version. Please subscribe!
Great video and ton of info. i have 2 concerns .. what would you recommend just for a modem / Router combo and a routing switch - when the power shuts off and second would be for desktop , 2 monitors and hard drive !!
We covered a modem/router combo, a switch won't add much to that, so you can work off the times we did minus about 20% or so, a 600-700w UPS would serve you well. PC side, everything extra you add to a UPS battery backup decreases runtime, so only backup your primary monitor. Runtime, depending on your monitor/PC power draw should be in-line with our results in video. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
1st question: Smart PSU with Active PFC ? How about normal active pfc ? Is seasonic focus gx750 a smart psu with active pfc ? I'm not mocking. I have no idea what a smart psu is.
2nd question: What is a legitimate question to why manufacturers use tiny fans in ups ? Especially online ups ? Is there a law against bigger than 8cm fan ?
they very good i said change battery used deep cycle battery 100A and put cooling fan in usp i have ups 350 wich am testing with deep cycle battery 30A FUSED AND MY DEEP CYCLE BATTERY 12VOLT 100A 30A FUSED
Sounds like a problem there? Pretty sure you can't just swap out parts or kitbash without issues.... Hey, using periods when writing sentences is a skill too ;) Hope you get it sorted. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
If. U. Live in south Africa a ups battery set last 1 year if u r lucky. 2hrs of cuts per day
Well, batteries do run a number of cycles before they die even with daily drains, realistically even car batteries last 1-2 years, though the drain is vastly different. Sorry to hear about your power issues though. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Thanks so much for this. I will watch the whole video but how loud are they
Excellent question! On standby, which is 99% of the time, they're silent. When the power goes out and it kicks on, there's noise as the voltage converter gets used, believe there's a fan for cooling. It's not too noisy, but it's noticeable. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Thank you so much for the fast reply. I'm in Europe and currently trying to get one now, thanks to your video. They have a 780w one here with Pure sine wave, voltage regulation and with my regions plugs and then a few IEC connections. I'm badly in need of one as there are things in my house that cause the power to trip and I work with sensitive data. Thanks again.
Sure no problem! Happy to help 😀
I bought two CP 1500s. Didn't have any power outtages for about 6 months, and then as soon as the power flickered, they both cut out, just, off... so I'm not sure what the problem is as these units had never actually been used... really disappointed in this brand...
The key part is you got a brownout, and part of a brownout (lower power) is that the power comes back up, which can cause a spike, or maybe lightning or a spike as grid usage went up. The UPS's may have well saved your connected equipment from getting toasted from a surge. Talk to CyberPower CS, maybe they can help you since it affected two units...?
You didn't say if they're dead- if they still work, I'd ask:
Were they grounded properly? Need proper grounding to function.
Was the wiring correct? Wall->UPS->devices
Did you test to make sure they worked? Device on, plugged into charged UPS, pull UPS power from wall, device remains on as UPS takes over
JJ, hope this issue doesn't delay your latest podcast of the Bugle. I'll let you know if I spot that wall-crawling menace! Please subscribe!
Got the 1500 - excellent
i have 1500 watts inverter 110V 60Hz 15A 12V inveter i have 4 12V battery 3 are 18A and 1 20A I can run two days with out charger and run 4laptop lol 2 days or more
wow are you in Taiwan? I saw the router
Yes, we're based here in Taipei. Are you here also, or...?
In my area we have power cuts for 1 second 3-5 times a day. I lose my save files on PS4. What ups do i need so that i never EVER lose power?
I would say.... a UPS. A UPS can make sure you stay up, as long as you plug into the the battery backup side of the device. Hope this helps. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Great video! One aspect that wasn't covered is the noise. Are these UPS making any noise? I'm looking at replacing an old APC that's constantly making noise even if it's not using the battery which is highly distracting when working.
Are these UPS adding noise when working without relying on battery power? Since these are compact models mean to be close to the computer, I would appreciate to buy one of these units as long as they are not noisy.
These were are dead silent on charging (normal) mode; when operating during a power loss, they do make noise as the DC/AC converter kicks on and generates heat, requiring a fan to cool. Good question. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Cheers glad we could help! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Great reviews, but i have some questions. I live in a house with 900VA electricity and i'm planning to build a RTX 3060 PC with 650w PSU.
what kind of UPS you guys recommend? should i get the 850va or will the 1000va UPS work with my current electricity?
House electricity is rated at 120v or 240v usually. Not sure how you're getting this number...? We'd recommend the 1000VA for reasons we already outlined in the review- decent runtime and replaceable battery etc. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
i dont think joule rating on surge protectors has anything to do with lightning strikes, that would be an auto circuit breaker feature or something
blog.tripplite.com/what-are-surge-protector-joules-and-how-many-do-i-need
And now you know! Obviously we're not talking about a direct strike to equipment. However, a strike to your building or say, the transformer outside can put a big surge on the line. This is how it applies to the situation. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
There are a lot of negative comments about these units on Amazon. Should I lesten to them?
So far no issues from our testing on in usage, we still have two. Customers need to have realistic expectations, primarily, if you cheap out, you'll get poor runtime/performance. Second, they are rechargeable batteries, and if you know a friend with a motorcycle, they'll tell you you gotta change them after a few years, they don't work well in the cold, and other physical limitations of liquid filled batteries. Any issues we have will be added to our techspinreview.com post and the description here; apart from the power LED issue we mentioned in video, nothing else so far. Good question! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I really wanna get the Cp1500PFCLCD but the customer service experiences on amazon are scaring me. Ahh what to do what to do. Great review tho!
We've reached out to CyberPower letting them know of consumer issues on the reviews on AmazonUS, so we hope they can address some of these concerns and improve their response to warranty claims. Thanks for bringing this to our attention! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I know this is a bit late and this question may have already been asked and answered but here goes - I think most UPS models are still using SLA batteries. I don't have much experience with UPS units but my experience with SLA batteries is that they really don't like deep discharge too much so I'm thinking that if you did have a power failure and you ran the battery down to the point to where the unit shuts off, that wouldn't be a very happy battery.
So I'm curious if your runtime tests were performed more than once (or even twice) and if so, were the results repeatable? IOW, was there significant degradation of the batteries after such a deep discharge? I know the goal is to prevent damage or data loss (that could be costly) but in some cases, replacing these batteries can also add up.
Yes correct, draining the batteries down to zero is not great for this type of battery- this is not the intended purpose for a UPS, which is to allow you to safely shut down your PC and save your work if your house has a power loss.
This video already took a month to organize and several days testing and script writing to deliver the important buying points concisely, so apart from multiple tests on the 1000VA model which lives here, we didn't have access to do more. We didn't see noticeable degradation but the nature of Windows means each session will have mildly different power loads. Also; this is how our units performed, your units will perform slightly differently, and the runtime will of course decline as the battery gets older, as is typical with SLA.
Indeed, battery replacement is a factor after around 3-5 years deoending in use, which is why we recommend the 1000VA model as its sufficient, user serviceable and has only a single battery to eventually replace. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
why arent you linking products to Amazon ? So you can get credit for referral ?
Were you looking at the description? Thanks, I edited it so the links appear above the "More..." now. Helpful!
The Voltage regulation in your video shows the low-limit to 100V and high limit to 136V, for your tested CP1000AVRLVDa.
Was that the tightest band you could choose, and did you see a different range for the CP1500PFCLCD ?
I just received my CP1000PFCLCD yesterday, only to find that the model is an older one than advertised (Not the USB charging ports or colored display in front), and in the PowerPanel Voltage settings I can only Choose the lower-limit at max 88 volts and higher-limit at minimum 136 volts.
One of my reasons for getting this is also that the mains power here is high, at 130-132 VAC input, and I expected the AVR in this unit to stabilize it to 120 VAC, but so far it seems like when running connected it will just replicate the input (or worse) giving 133V output, and only when pulling the plug for battery will it regulate down to 120VAC.. Is this normal behaviour for all PFC and AVR models, and all UPS in general? ..Do I have to get a separate regulator to put between the mains power and the UPS to achieve a stable 120VAC for my equipment?
If the model is not correct I'd suggest to return it-they should ship you the same one as in the picture. I think you'll need a voltage regulator to change voltages, but have not tested that with a UPS. I'd do a little research first to see if anyone had issues hooking it up like this.
@@Techspin Yes, possibly need to combine with a regular regulator, if they will even regulate down constant high voltages... I thought the line-interactive topologi and the AVR (automatic voltage regulation) of the CP1000PFCLCD (both the old I received and newer version) should mean it actually voltage regulates to the 120V output that it otherwise gives on Battery..
@@Techspin Yes I'm getting it returned. Apparently (according to Costco's supplier) they don't have the newer version in Mexico (so no idea why they market that on their website).
Still, I'm confused why also this older ~2017 version does not trigger the AVR when the power is fluctuatig between 127V (mostly 131) and up to 139V.. Only thing when mains goes above 136V (or whichever limit I set, it will trigger the battery function), but with power remaining above 136V for hours at a time that's no solution either. I would expect the Line interactive with "automatic voltage regulation (AVR)" to actually automatically voltage regulate. The Power Panel software also shows the battery having been triggered several times in the last week, but the AVR is never 'triggered'.. weird. Think I might have to go for online/double conversion in this unstable voltage area.
Wow yeah 136v is a bit high! Hope you can get a solution that's not too expensive. Good luck!
@@Techspin Thanks. Yes my frustration is mainly with CyberPower proclaiming AVR functionality, which it seems their unit does not activate - at least not the model I received. I get the same out as input until it reaches the level for battery.
But this is what CyberPower claim on their own website:
"Automatic Voltage Regulation
Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) in line interactive UPS systems stabilizes the incoming AC signal to maintain output power at a nominal 120 volts by controlling high and low voltages without resorting to battery power. This significantly increases battery life and lessens the likelihood of data loss, memory freezes, and system crashes."
Thanks for this guys, you had me at tips 3&4 :) Hoping this unit is still relevant today and if you'd answer a question.
Sitting here, still unopened, is the CP1500PFCLCD I bought for a brand new gaming desktop PC. The PC only required a 750 watt PSU but my parts options at nzxt's custom build was limited - so i got a MSI 1000watt Gold PSU.
Did i buy the right size UPS for that PC? I ask bc 'after' I'd already purchased this model, i get a late reply from Cyberpower for a support email i'd sent in. Guess what? They told me I'd need this other model that costs over $600!!! Now, I'm hoping they were just trying to up-sale me and the CP1500PFCLCD will be perfect for my PC. Will it indeed be okay?
Thanks guys
While the "VA" is 1500, actual wattage is 1000W. So even with your PC maxing at about 750W, this should be fine. By the way, that's TOTAL wattage... I have a 1000VA/600W model so the alarm went off when my GPU ramped up in Fortnite. By the TOTAL wattage, that's ALL devices plugged into the UPS... so only use this for the PC and a single monitor. Everything else should be plugged somewhere else, not into the unit (even the non-battery protected side). Hope this helps. Please subscribe!
@@Techspin then the man breathed a sigh of relief. I get you on just the PC and monitor on the battery side but why not use the surge only side for modem speakers, etc.? Seems a shame to waste the other outputs.
Regardless, i feel secure now about using it for pc and display, thank you very much!
@KingdomUploader For your unit, 1000W is the total power handling of the entire unit, the total draw on ALL sockets. Yeah agreed, a waste of sockets. Spent a good hour rewiring and cable managing under my desk after my home built NAS kept tripping the UPS alarm during gaming.
@@Techspin Thank you for suffering that so that now i won't have to :) Take care
sooo, what if i just wanted to plug a TV in to a UPS on a mobile stand?
think a TV would last 3+ hours??
A computer just playing RUclips runs anywhere from 60-80 watts draw, and a large TV is roughly similar, a little less. Based on the tests we ran, you can expect slightly more time, but not much. Keep in mind these are day one tests, and in the future the running time will get shorter due to battery age and recharge cycle capacity getting smaller.
Also to maximize run time, you'd need a separate UPS to power whatever device is feeding the TV, whether it's a modem/router and gaming console or such. Please subscribe!
The cp1500 can fix eletricity issues aswell even when theres is no blackout? Like, Voltage irregularities and other eletrical problems?
Yes it's designed to also clean the power, also handling surges and droops in the power which can damage electronics. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin tyy aprreciate the answer. Subscribed already :D
I have another question. Whats the difference between this model and the 1300?
Less power, check the number of outlets it lists also.
Very interesting video. Which type of electronics are sensitive to simulated/pure sine waves. Do gaming consoles reduce their life expectancy if they are powered by simulated sine waves?
Computers are more complicated and susceptible to issues, yes? So having game consoles protected shouldn't reduce life at all. As mentioned in the video, audio production equipment is most likely to experience a whine or noise with simulated sine waves, should be zero with pure sine waves. We listened to our PCs carefully during testing and didn't hear any whine/noise through audio though. Excellent question. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Wow, yeah, this is correct. Most general power supplies don't have PFC, but newer 'Smart' PSU's offer active PFC. We did a TON of research and testing for this video, but this did slip through our net. Updating video description and techspinreview.com post with this information. For those interested, the PFC Sinewave page on Cyberpower also states this is needed here: www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/ups/pfc-sinewave/
Thanks and great find for the important info!
Very informative thank you
Glad to help! Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
The 1500AVRLCD cannot be used if the mains power is not present (?) So in the event of a mains power failure the UPS cannot be used to run you computer because it cannot be turned on
Incorrect. If installed properly, it will remain charged and automatically switch over to backup power. In case of an outage, when mains power fails. We tested it, and yes it works. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Thank you for replying. It seems I may having missed something. I will have another look my new UPS and double check that I know what I’m doing ! Thanks….
Computer and monitor plugged into "Battery+surge" side of the UPS. "Surge" alone does NOT provide battery backup in case of a power out. Then connect UPS to a grounded outlet. Hope this helps
@@Techspin I have retested the Cyberpower UPS. This time it did work with no mains input. I plugged in some small devices into the battery backed up outlets and the was able to turn on the UPS and run the devices. Backup time was only 450 minutes !! ( very pleased ) I do intend to use the unit disconnected from the mains mains from time to time in an out building. Should I provide a earth connection via a ground spike ?
Great review!!
Thanks for that! :D
Which cyberpowet ups model has a removable battery?
Mid tier up, usually. Check the specs pages for what's available I your area to confirm. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Dang how many numbers and stuff are there in those things
I know, right? The tech jargon is hard sometimes hehe
@@Techspin yessir
Can I plug in my air conditioning, audio system, TV, and wifi at the same time?
If you watch the video, we cover this point. Appliances especially ones with compressors like AC, fridges should not be plugged in. That's a quick way to kill a UPS. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
YES to all accept the air conditioner because they draw so much power. An AC would probably run just fine for about a minute on the true sine wave (1500) version. The true sine wave ups will run fans and other things with high-voltage motors perfectly on battery until it dies.
As far as all other high-end equipment, (TVs, home theater, wifi, etc.) using the 1500, I was able to run my whole system (at normal volume) on battery for over an hour before full discharge. I love it.
good info thank you
I have a pc gaming need 700W & I have ps5 with tv which ups is good for me for all of that in same time I play on of them in one time ! Which ups is good to me ❤
Since the gaming PC is 700w, you'll need two units as the PC + PS5 + TV will likely cause an alarm on the UPS as it'll trigger protection due to too much current draw. The same one we recommended in the episode, the 1000W version, will be suitable for this. Hope this helps. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
i will build my own power station that last me 3 days on battery wich i did
Hi! If my computer PSU and monitor consumes around 790watts..What is the advisable VA of the UPS that should be considered? Thanks
Or since im not into the back up battery, would a simple AVR without UPS suffice?
Just got mine it's not turning on..just lights up after pressing the button then just turns off the light again..help...
It's on standby until the power goes out. You can test if it's working properly by powering up your PC, then pulling the power cable to the UPS. If wired properly, the UPS will immediately switch and start powering your PC. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Bro please what is the difference between the CyberPower CP1500EPFCLCD vs CyberPower VP1600ELCD
CP1500EPFCLCD has Pure Sine wave output which you may need for audio equipment and USB charging. VP1600ELCD is 'generator compatible (?) as well as having a slightly bigger battery. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I need a UPS which would provide my computer a healthy pure-sine wave.
What terms do I have to look for when buying me a UPS ?
Do all UPSs provide pure-sine wave or is it only the case for line interactive UPS ?
What are double- conversion UPS ?
Please help me out, I'd really appreciate it
We cover all that in the video except for double conversion UPS devices. Have a watch and a Google! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
great video
Thanks! The encouragement is truly appreciated 😀 Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Hi, I’m not tech savvy on this but I would very much like some advice on a problem I have. Whenever I get the slightest power glitch in my house I lose my wi fi signal. This glitch may only last for a split second. Sometimes it takes a while to get things re connected back to wi fi. I’m thinking I only need a backup for my AT and T modem/Router and a separate Nighthawk Router. Would the backup keep the modem and routers going through this very fast glitch? Any advice would be greatly appreciated, Thanks
A UPS should mitigate power fluctuations so should help with this problem IF it's being caused by the power fluctuating. If you see your wifi network disappear (not available in the list) then most likely yes. If your network remains bit there's no connection, the upchannel (provider's cable to your area) may be losing power for a moment and stopping communication, nothing you can do about that in your home but can contact them to complain and get that fixed.
@@Techspin Thanks
I wonder how well they communicate with an iMac.
Hmm, that would be interesting to see... Let us know if you try it out! Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Got the CP1500AVRLCD3 and it seems to be working fine. The app is really user friendly.
Is it good keeping fan and TV on
TV yes, appliances generally no, though if you have a DC-type fan, you might get away with it if it's on low setting. An AC fan draws a lot of power, usually 25w or so on low but the motor sends spikes on the current. A DC fan can run as low as 5w to 15w and less spiky for power draw. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Hello,
I bought a new rig (I’m a 3D artist) with 3 x 4090, Threadripper 5997wx and 256 ram.
The tech that build the rig recommended me 2 x 1500 va and told me the following:
“Just let them know full power draw on each 1600 w psu is around 1000w”
I should be good with 2 of these cyber power 1500va? I also readed that are online and offline ups, bit lost here and want to protect the new rig as much as possible, spent 15k on it.
Thanks!
Note the "VA" is not the same as wattage so you'd need to carefully research the output of a few higher end models, and consider brand alternates also like APC. I have a built NAS and a gaming PC (5950X, 3080) on one CP 1000VA- when gaming, it trips the alarm and triggers the UPS to run. So probably figure one extra, small UPS for a monitor and accessories.
With that kind of power draw, the batteries will deplete quickly so if power goes out, expect to stop your render and safely shut down until power comes back up. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
Costco has the big one for $99 now 8/24
Great video guys! Ive been looking for a comprehensive review on these. I'll be getting the small one for my network and you think it's advisable to just go all out for my laptop and monitor for maximum uptime incase of an outage (for work not gaming so it's mostly video calls and stuff)? There's a 1500VA 900w model in my area
The bigger the battery, the longer uptime you'll get. Another thing is batteries lose life over time, so a couple years down the road, the bigger battery is still better than the now really short lifespan smaller one. That being said, replacement costs are also an issue, and it depends how often you get brown or blackouts in your area. We use a 1000VA, it's a good balance between all values, especially since you're using a laptop, a lot less power draw. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Already did my man and thanks for the advise and yes speaking of battery everything degrades in time,with that said it is expected for batteries to last 2 yeard if you get 3 or more then youre fortunate. By that time though I dont think there might be a replacement battery for the ups or it might be cheaper to get a new. Id rather get a new one if that is the case and thanks man,will be getting one soon! Looking forward to your next reviews!
Cheers!
you buy a 2000 watts inverter for 209.00 off amazon deep cycle battery 12 volt 75 amp 900 watts it run very long hour love your video but i would spend money on something that will last you long times light out for like a day
You forgot the "ask you to come over to assemble it" part, plus the donor power strip with surge protection, additional extension cord wiring and solder+gun. And time. 😅 Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
This was a really good video. Thought I knew about UPS but I learned a few things.
We also learned a tremendous amount while researching and making this video too. Glad it was educational! 😁 Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
If power outage time exceeds battery capacity and unit shuts down and power comes back on some time later, the unit does not power back on automatically right?
Had to check the script to refresh my memory- while we didn't say it in video, to the best of my memory, when the unit is drained and off and starts receiving power again, it *should* come back on and start charging again. If the USB is connected to your PC, it likely won't come back on as the USB sends a command to shut down instead of (without a UPS) the power simply being cut- if the power is cut it can trigger the BIOS "resume from power loss". This won't happen with a UPS + USB connected though, and you really do want shutdown to happen to protect your data. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I'm a home user running 2 4 bay NAS ( one QNAP and a Synology ) that I want to protect. I'm still trying to figure out what the "Intelligent" model Cyberpower UPS's offer and would the average home user need one.
Certainly one of the best videos on this subject and this brand. Many thanks.
Love the thought put into the comments on this vid, really inspiring! Yeah the options/offerings can be a bit overwhelming, especially with the 100s of models listed on CP's website. Basically, the latest UPS devices have some USB information they can pass to your PC or NAS, where you can control some of the shutdown options. We touch on the Windows app PowerPanel Personal in the video, but for a Synology or QNAP box, you'll need to see what's available/how each system handles a connected UPS. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
ive been looking at these for a while but every single one i find in the uk have "kettle plugs" (as we call them here, the shape of what the psu plug sockets are) rather then standard uk plugs which is a pain to work with as means special cables and convertors for monitors internet router etc - only ones that use UK outlets are the basic ones that maybe give you 10 minutes of backup.
It might be worth an email to CyberPower CS, maybe they're missing an opportunity here. I'd try to explain it but even after looking at a YT vid on different British plugs, not sure what the issue is.
*big fan of all things British, Monty Python, Top Gear etc hehe
What would you recommend for a 65inch TV with bose 700 sound system?
All these can support high draw electronics, you're spending basically on time. The 1000w is a good trade between time and battery, and costs less than the larger model to service. If you're gaming, backup just the TV and console so you can save. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Should i follow the recommended ups VA or should i go higher? My recommended is 900 VA. Should i go with the 1000 VA or 1350VA?
Thought we gave recommendations in the episode! Go with those. Bigger batteries won't die as quickly/easily in average as smaller ones, will last longer (stamina) over time. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Where do I plug my pc and monitors again? Surge + battery or just surge?
We tell you in the video 😉
I noticed during the video you mentioned adapters you could buy. I live in Denmark so I have to use adaptors from European schuko to Danish plugs, can I use any adapter or do I have to use Cyberpower?
I mentioned extensions, just lengthen wire runs or make it easier to plug in large adapters side by side that wouldn't fit directly plugged into the UPS. Any brand extension will be okay as long as it's rated for the load; I just buy the thickest (lowest AWG) possible so I don't have to worry. Hope this helps. Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
I have a 1300w psu should i get a 1300w ups as well or will a 1000w ups work just fine?
excuse me,i'm not going to use my pc 24hrs..i run my pc mostly from 8am to 12pm at night..so do i need to just turn off everything from the wall socket or just shut down my pc? thanks in advance..
The UPS stays plugged in, just shut down your PC.
Will this work for a refrigerator I keep blowing out my refrigerator when the power goes out?
No not at all. You need a generator. The compressor on the fridge will kill this super fast. Please subscribe!
Can I plug the UPS into surge protector?
Wall outlet > surge protector > UPS > pc?
UPS devices are designed to be directly connected to the wall. From APC's website:
"Plugging your UPS into a surge protector: In order for your UPS to get the best power available, you should plug your UPS directly into the wall receptacle. Plugging your UPS into a surge protector may cause the UPS to go to battery often when it normally should remain online."
Even though the source is old, the basics of how a UPS functions still apply. Hope this helps. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Thanks!
Glad it helped! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
HOW DO YOU KNOW WHAT SIZE UNIT TO BUY FOR A PERSONAL COMPUTER?(BATTERY BACK UP POWER W/ SURGE PROTECTION)
1) No all caps please. 2) It depends on how much time you need to shut down your PC safely, and of course, if you have a normal or high end PC. If you just need a few minutes to save your work, most UPS devices will do that for you. If you have a higher end PC or intend to work for longer off of battery, consider a higher capacity UPS. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I am an online ESL teacher. Which of these do you recommend for a potential power outage? I teach 2-4 hours each morning with an iPad.
I still do ESL teaching too 😀 That will be plenty for an iPad, though likely you'll be powering a home router yes? If it's just those two things, should have it covered, check our network duration tests for an idea of what to expect. More items plugged into the battery side (turn on, drawing power) will cut down the runtime though. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
I have a question for the cp15000, they have to be always connect to the power or not
Yes, always connected in a chain: Power comes from the wall into the UPS, where you plug in the PC or device you want protected. They're designed to guard against power surges and drops this way. There's very little power consumed on standby, and makes sure you can shutdown safely, avoiding loss of work or OS corruption. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Will the 1500 work good for PS4 Pro?
I'd actually suggest a more mid-tier 1000VA or so model- you get protection, run-time, and it doesn't cost as much up front or with eventual maintenance. It should allow you enough time to finish/save your game, unless you're doing Fortnite or something online. In that case you'd need to backup your modem/router too, but still have the chance of going offline if the neighborhood Upchannel loses power. Hope this helps, please subscribe!
I'm looking into a UPS because I have a NAS. You mentioned software to can used to shutdown equipment. Do you have more videos on how to set something like that up? Can you program to start the shutdown once the battery drops below a certain threshold? Do any of these UPS have the ability to email or have a outage to notify an event while your away?
That free software is Power Panel Personal, has a few settings to allow adjustment. You can download it and play around with the interface without a UPS connected. I see an email notification area in the software... We don't have plans to make a video on this at the current time, views for such a video would be very low, albeit helpful to a few! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Would it matter if I replace my lead acid batteries that come with the system with the new lithium po4
Not sure if the charging circuit is suitable for that charging requirement. Sounds dangerous IMHO. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
5.48 da li je ikom jasno sta si radio ?
Uključivali smo uređaje u UPS. Pomislili biste da bismo mogli pokazati kako je UPS priključen na strujnu traku; ne biste trebali koristiti power bar, već priključite UPS izravno u zid. Mogli smo ipak pokazati priključenje UPS-a na zid! Ne zaboravite se pretplatiti i reći svojim prijateljima da nam pomognu rasti! Hvala na podršci! 🙂 Croatian viewer, he wanted to show us connecting the 'chain'. We showed connecting devices to the UPS. You should NOT connect a UPS to a power strip, plug the UPS directly into the wall. However, we could show plugging the UPS into the wall, I guess!
is this to give you time to manually shut down your PC?....im new to these
It's covered in the review, have a watch 😉 but yes, that, and data corruption and protection from power surges are some of the features. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
Hi, your video is great but i have a question.
Currently i have the Cyberpower 750 which has run just fine. However, I recently upgraded my PC to a 4080 and a 1000 W psu. The current UPS still works on the whole set up, including when im gaming, and streaming. The issue comes when I want to crank up the graphics to utilize the GPU and then it gives me a really long beep (which im guessing is its way of telling me that im drawing to much power). I have to quickly tune all the graphics back down to get it to stop.
What I'm hoping is that if I upgrade to the 1500 model and run only the PC off that, and then all my proliffials off the 750 will I be able to crank up my graphics without it triggering the alarm and auto shut down? I'm aware that the battery backup part of this will only give me somewhere between 1-2 minutes to shut down, Thats the big reason I got the 750 originally, and that has saved my PC several times over the last year. So I'm not hoping for more battery time as 2 mins is enough time for me to properly shut down, but i do need the UPS to not trigger its saftey features for intensive gaming (otherwise i bought all these upgrades...for no reason.)
Yeah plan to get a UPS over the total PSU wattage, and run everything else from another UPS or outlet, that sounds correct. As for the spec of 1500w UPS for a 1000w PSU, it's over by 33% and should be fine BUT we haven't tested this. My best guess is should be fine, but you may want to contact CS if in doubt. Hope it works! Please subscribe, thanks for your support!
pcs are heavy demanding items, yet you cannot use heavy demanding items?
You heard half of what we said, but it's still a great question! You shouldn't use compressor units or big heaters/hairdryers on a UPS unit due to the spike sent through the line when the unit kicks on. PCs are sensitive equipment, and they generally ramp up and down fairly smoothly, without the spikes that compressors usually generate when they turn on. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin ok that makes a lot more sense now! thank you for explaining to me :) I'm new to UPS' and I am doing some research into them before buying them. I had a power cut recently and it took multiple repeats of unplugging my PC and holding the power button for 30 seconds before it would load past the post beep
Occasionally if the power drops suddenly, the motherboard can get caught in a POST loop. Strangely, we've often found removing and reinserting the RAM (with power disconnected) often works. Hope everything is running well now for ya!
approximately how long will a 900 watt ups power a 65 inch flat screen tv? just the tv will be plugged into the battery part of the ups
Depends on how many watts the TV pulls, and unless you're playing off a USB or maybe a laptop, nothing else will work. Best to see our estimates, figure a half-way result, and minus 10% from that, that should give a good estimate. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@Techspin if my PSU is 1000 watts, but my PC build's parts only totals around 550-600 watts usage. Would I need 1000 Watts UPS or 600 Watts UPS?
For those wondering why I bought a 1000 Watts PSU, I got for the same price as a 650 Watt version.
You need one minimum 10% higher, as sometimes the GPU will spike then settle at 100% draw. Also, don't forget your monitor will add another 30~50w of draw. I'd say go for the larger model, it'll also provide longer run time, which gets shortened with battery life. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Would you say a CyberPower CP1500PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 1500VA/1000W is enough or too much? I've been telling my friends about your videos. Thank you. 🙂
Depends on how long you need it to run for, really. The CP1000 model should be plenty, PFC is not really needed but nice to have, though for longer runtime the CP1500 is better-however the 4-5 year maintenance is more costly. Thanks for the sub and shares!
@@Techspin Much appreciate your help. 🙂No problem
My computer's 1000w power supply just died yesterday, buying those UPS here will be like 4 times the cost in Canada or USA, now I'm wishing I lived in either Canada or USA. Just searched about them and realized that I'm in big trouble.
I ignored a UPS for so long and now I just have to pay the price.
Well if you're running an office PC, you could easily get away with a 450w PSU, even gaming is 750w to 850w max, those can still be somewhat affordable if you shop around. Amazon generally has decent shipping rates... Or find a friend to import one for you! Wishing you luck. Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!
@@Techspin Thank you for the advice,going to consider importing from UAE as that's the cheapest option in regards to my location.
which catch fire and which dont, which will cut power from random errors, which will make annoying buzzing sound with time, and which actually make a true useable sinewave?? lol
Ours continue to work fine without issues.... So far. *knocks on wood*
I have a Rockpals 300 watt solar generator that charges off my solar panel. could I power my modem 24/7 with it? the modem is 12 volt 3 amps
The modem should use more like 0.5 to 1 amp in normal usage, and this should be less than your generator's charging. You could try connecting it for a day and monitoring the generator's charge, of course if your gen's manual says running devices off of it long term is okay. I'd monitor charge usage over a week or month, and you'll have your answer. Nice question! Don't forget to subscribe and tell your friends to help us grow! Thanks for your support!