I'm in the midst of despair. Trying to get to the top of the driver front and need penetrating oil to all of them. First one I've attempted. Has not broken yet, but spun the cage . . . now I'm screwed. Spent more time watching videos trying to solve than wrenching. What a Sunday July 2... argghh. Any tips appreciated. Wondering if jacking the body slightly would take pressure off the bolts to make easier to undo? Not break, not jack the cage?
Any ideas on the front two, I have a 2010 F250 and have replaced the back 4. The front two cage nuts are spinning so I’m thinking someone put an impact other and spun the cages ? Thanks
Good video. I have 2012 F250 4 door long bed. Did you have to get inside and pull any interior parts? How much heat did you use? Not cherry red but about 200f or so?
Thanks for watching, I don’t believe I had to remove any interior parts, but it might be different for the supercrew. I did use some heat, you’ll know when the old bushings start smoking it’s probably good to break loose. Use a breaker bar not an impact.
lets say that if your cab stills need's to be 1/2 inch - higher; is there any thicker bushing or can spacers be used? I actually don't know yet, but just asking . 2002 250 powerstroke extenda cab "" thank you ""rbrt callis USA
Thanks for your question Rob, I don’t know for sure if they sell thicker bushing. But if your Bushings are worn they might have worn uneven which could possibly cause that 1/2” offset. And replacing them could bring it back up or they have a 3” body lift kit for your truck if you want to go that direction. Hope this was helpful, thanks again.
Two years later, How are they holding up? I bought the full set for my 2012 and about to tackle it. The full set shouldn't have the sizing issues since the shells and bottom pieces are all part of the kit, so will see. As far as ride, it's a 1 ton truck, how much worse can it be? LOL
I haven’t gone underneath and looked at the physical condition of the bushings. But they feel fine and there’s still not that slamming body to frame action.
Great video. Both informative and entertaining. Thank you for sharing. I assume you did the mounts in front (position 1) that support radiator. How difficult were those? I did my body mounts but the radiator mounts bolts are seized up. I intend to cut them off with Sawzall.
I’m not going to lie it’s been a couple of moons but if your having trouble I would suggest tapping with a rubber or brass mallet. If you don’t have that a 2x4 and a Hammer should make it easier.
Crowbar and wd40 worked for me. Just completed the change out with S&B filters new silicone bodymounts and man are they worth it. Exact fit and lifetime warranty by the way.
Great video, I couldn't of done mine without this video,thank you. I installed mine and I torqued everything correctly but I don't know if it's suspension noise but after I installed the daystar bushings and I run over a railroad track or do some light off roading I hear a slight clunk here and there and I was wondering if you're experiencing any noise from these bushings? Again thank you for the video bud. 👍
Awsome, Glad I could help. I would recheck the torque settings. I hadn’t felt any clunking. If you can repeat it, try looking in your mirrors to see if you can see any major movement compared to the bed.
Thanks for the video man! Great job! So I am currently in the process of pricing out bushings myself but I've looked at the reviews for daystar half of them are good the other half are majority that the diameter sizes do not match up and are prone to slip through. Thoughts?? Experience?? Any input would greatly be appreciated and will help this replacement
Thanks Buddy. The diameters of the DayStar Bushings are smaller than the factory but I didn’t have a problem with them slipping through. I think there were 2 or 3 different size Bushings in the kit and as long as you pay attention to the bushing part no., it’s matching pair (top and bottom) And it’s specified location you’ll be fine. If you have any other questions let me know.
@@RoelDayMoon acknowledged! Thank you bro! I'll let you know how it turned out. Have a great weekend! Oh btw.... Anyone ever told you you look like Phil Ansemo, vocalist of Pantera?. Haha Later bro!
Good day to you sir from Houston. Yes everything is still good I haven’t had any issues yet. (But to be honest I don’t own the truck anymore but it’s still in the family) If you plan on doing this yourself just be sure the body of the truck is stable while it’s off of the chassis. Don’t want any piggies going to the market for good. Good luck and be safe brother.
Was able to change them with the exception the front ones. They are probably rusted together. Ordered some dormans so I can have the new hardware. I am going to have to cut the front ones off. Was a straight forward job. The only issue I have is the new daystar poly bushings squeak like a mofo..
@@ANGST97B2P if you haven't already David, take them back off and grease them up with high temp grease, from the inside of retainer on top all around the polyurethane bushings, to the bottom of the bolt. The polyurethane will keep squealing like a muther if you don't. 👍👍
Excellent video! Questions: What year is your FORD? I am in the process of choosing a brand of bushings ... What do you recommend to me and why? Greetings from Costa Rica!
Thanks Buddy! I have a 2011 4x4 F-250. The kit says it works for 99-17 F-250’s. I only have experience with the DayStar Bushings for this application and so far so good. I personally wouldn’t go back to the factory Ford Bushings. Thanks for your questions I hope this helped. Best of luck from Texas!
Honestly I don’t remember. But compared to the worn out Bushings and the body banging on the frame they’re great. They Maybe be a little stiffer but I couldn’t see spending the amount of money for factory Bushings for the to fail in another 100k miles.
Hi Roy really appreciate the informative video. Question: do you think it would matter if these were changed at different times? Mine are in really bad shape I have the replacement set just don't have enough time to do it all at once
Thank you for your services
Thanks for watching, I hope I was able to help.
Nice camera work on the video! Thanks for the help too!!
Thanks Man! Glad I could help!
I feel your pain. Did mine on my 93 ranger. Also cool motto
Thanks buddy. Ya the 94 ranger will also be getting new body mounts soon.
Hey ! - how the heck did you keep the white ''T' so white ! !
Hey thanks for the video it was very informative cuz I was just guessing how hard it would be
Did you film part of bolts inside truck or did u just work from under truck,I have 07 f350 single cab?
I’ll ask ya...what did ya use to jack up the cab from frame? I was thinking about using just my farm jack.
Well I DIDN’T use a floor jack and a 2’ 4x4 because that would be plain dumb and unsafe.
Gotcha brother! Lol.
Be sure to place something in between the body and frame while you have your hands in there ie: 2x4. Just Incase whatever you use slips off.
@@RoelDayMoon ...Thanks brother
I'm in the midst of despair. Trying to get to the top of the driver front and need penetrating oil to all of them. First one I've attempted. Has not broken yet, but spun the cage . . . now I'm screwed. Spent more time watching videos trying to solve than wrenching. What a Sunday July 2... argghh. Any tips appreciated.
Wondering if jacking the body slightly would take pressure off the bolts to make easier to undo? Not break, not jack the cage?
Any ideas on the front two, I have a 2010 F250 and have replaced the back 4. The front two cage nuts are spinning so I’m thinking someone put an impact other and spun the cages ? Thanks
Good video. I have 2012 F250 4 door long bed. Did you have to get inside and pull any interior parts? How much heat did you use? Not cherry red but about 200f or so?
Thanks for watching, I don’t believe I had to remove any interior parts, but it might be different for the supercrew. I did use some heat, you’ll know when the old bushings start smoking it’s probably good to break loose. Use a breaker bar not an impact.
Good vid! Mine are in need of change.
Some people say the polyurethane bushings squeak. If so how bad is it? What's the 3yr review?
Thanks man! For this application noise isn’t noticeable.
lets say that if your cab stills need's to be 1/2 inch - higher; is there any thicker bushing or can spacers be used? I actually don't know yet, but just asking . 2002 250 powerstroke extenda cab "" thank you ""rbrt callis USA
Thanks for your question Rob, I don’t know for sure if they sell thicker bushing. But if your Bushings are worn they might have worn uneven which could possibly cause that 1/2” offset. And replacing them could bring it back up or they have a 3” body lift kit for your truck if you want to go that direction. Hope this was helpful, thanks again.
Just go a head and say you want a 6" body to frame lift kit....LOL
Two years later, How are they holding up? I bought the full set for my 2012 and about to tackle it. The full set shouldn't have the sizing issues since the shells and bottom pieces are all part of the kit, so will see. As far as ride, it's a 1 ton truck, how much worse can it be? LOL
I haven’t gone underneath and looked at the physical condition of the bushings. But they feel fine and there’s still not that slamming body to frame action.
Great video. Both informative and entertaining. Thank you for sharing. I assume you did the mounts in front (position 1) that support radiator. How difficult were those? I did my body mounts but the radiator mounts bolts are seized up. I intend to cut them off with Sawzall.
Thank you sir. The fronts weren’t any harder to install. But being seized up may add to a little more aggravation
The factory puts on blue lock tight. Did you use lock tight when installing? Did you replace the bolts?
Thank you.
I didn’t use lock tight and I reused the old bolts, but it’s not a bad idea to use lock tight and new bolts.
From Tokyo drift to youtube 😂💀
How'd you go about separating the sleeves?
I’m not going to lie it’s been a couple of moons but if your having trouble I would suggest tapping with a rubber or brass mallet. If you don’t have that a 2x4 and a Hammer should make it easier.
Crowbar and wd40 worked for me. Just completed the change out with S&B filters new silicone bodymounts and man are they worth it. Exact fit and lifetime warranty by the way.
Great video, I couldn't of done mine without this video,thank you. I installed mine and I torqued everything correctly but I don't know if it's suspension noise but after I installed the daystar bushings and I run over a railroad track or do some light off roading I hear a slight clunk here and there and I was wondering if you're experiencing any noise from these bushings? Again thank you for the video bud. 👍
Awsome, Glad I could help. I would recheck the torque settings. I hadn’t felt any clunking. If you can repeat it, try looking in your mirrors to see if you can see any major movement compared to the bed.
Thanks for the video man! Great job!
So I am currently in the process of pricing out bushings myself but I've looked at the reviews for daystar half of them are good the other half are majority that the diameter sizes do not match up and are prone to slip through.
Thoughts?? Experience??
Any input would greatly be appreciated and will help this replacement
Thanks Buddy. The diameters of the DayStar Bushings are smaller than the factory but I didn’t have a problem with them slipping through. I think there were 2 or 3 different size Bushings in the kit and as long as you pay attention to the bushing part no., it’s matching pair (top and bottom) And it’s specified location you’ll be fine. If you have any other questions let me know.
@@RoelDayMoon acknowledged!
Thank you bro! I'll let you know how it turned out. Have a great weekend!
Oh btw.... Anyone ever told you you look like Phil Ansemo, vocalist of Pantera?. Haha
Later bro!
Good morning from Hunstville, Texas.. everything still good with the change? No issues? About get this done..
Good day to you sir from Houston. Yes everything is still good I haven’t had any issues yet. (But to be honest I don’t own the truck anymore but it’s still in the family) If you plan on doing this yourself just be sure the body of the truck is stable while it’s off of the chassis. Don’t want any piggies going to the market for good. Good luck and be safe brother.
Was able to change them with the exception the front ones. They are probably rusted together. Ordered some dormans so I can have the new hardware. I am going to have to cut the front ones off. Was a straight forward job. The only issue I have is the new daystar poly bushings squeak like a mofo..
@@ANGST97B2P if you haven't already David, take them back off and grease them up with high temp grease, from the inside of retainer on top all around the polyurethane bushings, to the bottom of the bolt. The polyurethane will keep squealing like a muther if you don't. 👍👍
I have a 99 ex cab f350, the bolt heads are inside the cab,
Bro @ 1:41 I thought that was part of the song! Thought it sounded badass lol
Excellent video! Questions: What year is your FORD? I am in the process of choosing a brand of bushings ... What do you recommend to me and why? Greetings from Costa Rica!
Thanks Buddy! I have a 2011 4x4 F-250. The kit says it works for 99-17 F-250’s. I only have experience with the DayStar Bushings for this application and so far so good. I personally wouldn’t go back to the factory Ford Bushings. Thanks for your questions I hope this helped. Best of luck from Texas!
How is the ride compared to when the factory rubber ones were good. Some say the ride is rougher
Honestly I don’t remember. But compared to the worn out Bushings and the body banging on the frame they’re great. They Maybe be a little stiffer but I couldn’t see spending the amount of money for factory Bushings for the to fail in another 100k miles.
Nobody shows the front 2 on the Frame? How do those come out?
Take off the grill should be able to pull them out from the front..ive got a 2013 f250 that was the only way.
@@Mostunwelcomed DO THE REST OF THE CAB BOLTS NEED TO BE LOOSE TO DO THE FRONT?
@@brianhicks4767 yes 👍
Good video! Thanks.
Thanks man!
Did you have to remove the rear seat?
Not in my supercab, I’m not sure if you would need to in the supercrew, but if you did it should only be a few torx bolts.
So installing a 3 inch body lift should be the same just lift it higher.. no bad
Yes Sir.
thank you
Thanks for watching!
Kind of odd, my bolts go in through the top.
Interesting, what year?
@@RoelDayMoon The bolts started going up through the bottom in 2008.
Hi Roy really appreciate the informative video. Question: do you think it would matter if these were changed at different times? Mine are in really bad shape I have the replacement set just don't have enough time to do it all at once
Removed old bushings, when I attempted to install new ones after torquing them down they wiggle. Wth
Did you get them tightened up? Sounds like a cage nut failure. I'm curious, I am about to tackle this job.
Just finished this Job. It was not fun
You are the instructions but the volume in this video is awful