Good call also you don't get all that scorching from excessive flame one other thing why aren't they leaving them bolts partially threaded in so the threads don't distort when they cool down???
I recommend to never use an air hammer gun. Use a braker bar and a long handled ratchet. But if you can get in on that cage nut and heat it up like that get a flux coted brazing rod and put a little brass on it. Dont for get to put a little quality spray primer on it. That will help in stopping rust were you hit it with all that heat. It will sure help for the next time you have to remove the cab or replace the cab mounts. But I used to work on old VW and brazing those cage nuts is the best thing ever
This gentleman knows his stuff. Keep a water hose with a quick on off nozzle right next to your torch. Five year old Flaming Hot Cheetos will burn, like crazy
My bolts that are under the floor broke off in the nut on both sides. You think I'll be able to go through the hole under the carpet and break the captive bolt welds and just use washers and a new nut?
Hey wanted to say thanks for all the content I have learned a lot about Fords here since I got my 2020 explorer. I’m curious what your opinion of the 2.3 ecoboost is? Thanks
Add tension to the lift and keep it front end up 1 or 2 inches higher. Add propane torch heat to the bolt heads for 40 seconds, 50 seconds with cold temps. Start at front and "peel" cab off frame. Prepare customer that the 2 front bolts will most likely be cut out or damaged upon removal. Also remove grille and headlight assemblies IF the cage nut spins. But we've even gotten better at that. If the cage nut spins on removal, we've even seen it tighten back without pulling the carpet back and holding backup. The crazy thing is, the 3rd row with real rubber mounts require no specific attention. IDK why I decided to comment. I've only been Engine Master Certified and been removing cabs to do my job since 2008.
@@trollingdirty8910nope just not afraid to call out someone who is so brand loyal that they fail to see their shortcomings. I’ve owned Chevy trucks all my life and anything after the 90’s are complete junk! Displacement on demand, failing lifters, early frame rot, shall I go on? Don’t get me wrong, they ALL have problems, but when GM took that huge government bail out, and did nothing to improve their product, that was the final straw. Shouldn’t go bashing anyone for their choice of vehicle ownership when you don’t want to look at your own choice with a clear view. You do you, but stop trying to shame others for their choices.
Bro, it's just a little Loctite 242 on those bolts! Your shop needs a bolt heater if you're constantly taking cabs off, especially if you're trying to save those mounts. 30 seconds with the induction heater, ratchet loose, zip off with a regular drill and 3/8 drive socket. You're down south with too much experience, get that oxy acetylene torch out of there man! Kids up north are going to be destroying their plastic and melting their carpet trying to get their rusty broken mounts out! No excuse... 🤨
Man carpets in a work truck. Honestly in anything it’s stupid. I guess that’s my Canadian slush/snow/salt roads speaking. All the time to get weather tek mats and shit. Rubber floors. Just pressure wash them bitches 😂
Flying Wrenches TV. Someone give this man his own tv show. I would watch the premiers and the reruns. Keep up the educational and entertaining videos. Have A Good and Productive Week! 🛻🚜🛵🛺
Bolt Buster induction heater works wonders as well!
Good call also you don't get all that scorching from excessive flame one other thing why aren't they leaving them bolts partially threaded in so the threads don't distort when they cool down???
I recommend to never use an air hammer gun. Use a braker bar and a long handled ratchet. But if you can get in on that cage nut and heat it up like that get a flux coted brazing rod and put a little brass on it. Dont for get to put a little quality spray primer on it. That will help in stopping rust were you hit it with all that heat. It will sure help for the next time you have to remove the cab or replace the cab mounts. But I used to work on old VW and brazing those cage nuts is the best thing ever
Should charge extra for bringing a dirty ass vehicle.
I use the torch with brazing tip on it to heat the bolt heads, and that heat softens the thread locker. No need to disassemble the truck.
Also, Bro... That’s waaay too many empty PBR’s on the floorboard.
Looks like a work truck as well... no bueno
@BlancoLobo yup.
Liquid breakfast for the work day ahead.
And a relaxer on the way home or to happy hour heaven
Missing the empty baggies 😂
What happened to the coil heater to heat those bolts.
This gentleman knows his stuff. Keep a water hose with a quick on off nozzle right next to your torch. Five year old Flaming Hot Cheetos will burn, like crazy
I just did this on my 87 F-250. Reciprocating saw works too 👍🏼
Ok. Cut the bolt. Then how do you remove whats remaining in the caged nut? Its shit engineering.
the pinch weld thing is a good thing to keep in mind, when I installed a body lift on my frontier I ended up crumpling the weld zone
Just seems crazy that we are at the point of it easier to remove the cab to work on the motor.
I just heat up the bolt head a bit with propane heater. Heat travels up the bolt and loosens the loctite
Nice… I may have to remove my cab one day. Great tutorial!!!
You need an induction bolt heater
Been doing that since 2006 the heat coil works awesome too!!
Heat coil look like impossible to get those bolts. Torch seems to be a lot easier and faster. Retired Catapiller Heavy Equipment Mechanic
I hate when a mofo has the nastiest dam cars to work on! 🙃
Crazy when removing the cab is like clockwork
HOW MANY BEERS WAS THAT?? GET THIS MAN OFF THE ROOOOOAD
Ford couldn’t put a dab of anti-seize on those bolts before assembly?
My bolts that are under the floor broke off in the nut on both sides. You think I'll be able to go through the hole under the carpet and break the captive bolt welds and just use washers and a new nut?
Good stuff, as always
I store my 6.7 truck would it hurt to add sum oil in the fuel for extra lube. Thanks Curt
I can't believe they left that truck so dirty inside for you to work on
Nut buster induction heater.... No torch
Havent talked to ya in a while. I wish ya luck player
I’m currently doing a frame swap on a 450 how do you recommend lifting the engine off the frame
Hey wanted to say thanks for all the content I have learned a lot about Fords here since I got my 2020 explorer. I’m curious what your opinion of the 2.3 ecoboost is?
Thanks
Add tension to the lift and keep it front end up 1 or 2 inches higher. Add propane torch heat to the bolt heads for 40 seconds, 50 seconds with cold temps. Start at front and "peel" cab off frame. Prepare customer that the 2 front bolts will most likely be cut out or damaged upon removal. Also remove grille and headlight assemblies IF the cage nut spins. But we've even gotten better at that. If the cage nut spins on removal, we've even seen it tighten back without pulling the carpet back and holding backup. The crazy thing is, the 3rd row with real rubber mounts require no specific attention.
IDK why I decided to comment. I've only been Engine Master Certified and been removing cabs to do my job since 2008.
They really couldn't pick the trash up before dropping off their vehicle 😂😂😂😂
I’ve found that tannerite works on all Fords.
Takes a lot less to destroy a Chevy.
@@dm7097 Well, we know who drives the Queen Ranch, now.
@@trollingdirty8910nope just not afraid to call out someone who is so brand loyal that they fail to see their shortcomings. I’ve owned Chevy trucks all my life and anything after the 90’s are complete junk! Displacement on demand, failing lifters, early frame rot, shall I go on?
Don’t get me wrong, they ALL have problems, but when GM took that huge government bail out, and did nothing to improve their product, that was the final straw.
Shouldn’t go bashing anyone for their choice of vehicle ownership when you don’t want to look at your own choice with a clear view. You do you, but stop trying to shame others for their choices.
@@dm7097 😚
Lol love the beer 🍺 cans
Wow and I thought I had a messy car.
P.S. Donut sent me.
PBR FTW
Venom mini ductor
Bro, it's just a little Loctite 242 on those bolts! Your shop needs a bolt heater if you're constantly taking cabs off, especially if you're trying to save those mounts. 30 seconds with the induction heater, ratchet loose, zip off with a regular drill and 3/8 drive socket. You're down south with too much experience, get that oxy acetylene torch out of there man! Kids up north are going to be destroying their plastic and melting their carpet trying to get their rusty broken mounts out! No excuse... 🤨
Man carpets in a work truck. Honestly in anything it’s stupid.
I guess that’s my Canadian slush/snow/salt roads speaking.
All the time to get weather tek mats and shit. Rubber floors.
Just pressure wash them bitches 😂
A good tack weld works wayyyyyyyyy better and less likely to catch the truck on dayum fire ya goon 😂
Good old Chinese hot wrench!
Ugga dugga
Flying Wrenches TV. Someone give this man his own tv show. I would watch the premiers and the reruns. Keep up the educational and entertaining videos. Have A Good and Productive Week! 🛻🚜🛵🛺
Use an induction heater on the bolt head.
------------------------------- fun visit