I Built my Real Life RC Crawler Chassis with 4 Bar Suspension Links!
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- Опубликовано: 10 фев 2025
- Welcome back to more Gearblocks! In this episode we are looking at the crawler chassis of my SCX24 remote control car and a recreated version in game! What truly amazes me about this game is how we can recreate real life chassis setups and have similar results in the virtual environment that matches how the real life version would behave!
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Hey guys one of my first times trying to record RC stuff on purpose for RUclips. I have to work on my camera settings cuz it was sort of out of focus. Let me know if you want to see more RC footage and I'll try to improve my filming techniques.
I like RC cars
Also you guys like my Supra? :P
what happened to the scrap mechanic piston engines?
Is that a scx24 or the 10?
Also really nice supra dude what scale is that
Kan, when i saw the motion range of thw suspension, i saw that the camber of the wheels changed a lot.
So i thought of a way to mix the double wishbone and these 4 linkage suspension
Basically, yo have the sway bar from the 4 linkage suspension conected to a double wishbone via the "chassis" mounts of the double wishbone. And the wheels can connect to the differential through a cv joint
Loved seeing the D5 drifting with the SCX on the hood 😂
It was glorious 🤣
To answer to the 7:00 question, yes it is used in real life.
Crawlers and Trophy trucks usually use 4 links suspensions like the ones in the vid(2 lower links and 2 higher at an angle to stop the axle from swinging side to side) and the axle in the middle), or 3 links (2 lower links + one in diagonal to make way for the axle when it comes from the side, bc there is no space in the engine bay for example, + a panhard bar to stop it from swinging).
The suspensions are either placed angled to the side to give it as much twisting as possible on crawlers, or on the lower arms to give it more suspension amplitude (like a lever) on trophy trucks.
It is not flimsy because the axle, the links and the differential and all are really strong and reinforced, not like in the game where 1 block is sufficient to make it.
Drag cars also use 4 link
Slip joint driveshafts.....case closed.
@@glenjamindle 4 link on drag cars keep the rear end from moving, and pull the front down by use of the chassis.
Not the same system as off-road, or rock crawlers, as that system links the mid chassis point and alow for twist of the drive line.
@thibault_4705 A 4 link wont keep the rear end from moving sideways, that is a pan-hard bar that does that.
@@ducewags a brain. Finally
We need more RC content from you.
12:00 From my experience in this game, although making extending drive shafts is great for improving suspension travel, they almost all tend to suffer from exploding physics when they are either at max extension or under a great deal of torque. If you were to lock that sliding joint on your drive shafts it should fix that issue.
Edit: also, to fix the shuddering when trying to move forward while fully steering in either direction, you can connect only the front drive shaft to one of the ring gear clutches as they allow a little bit of slip that would stop the front axle from binding. This would also have the added bonus of allowing you to switch from 4WD to 2WD.
Yes, this here is true. I've done a formidable amount of "tinkering" in Gearblocks, and have found that if you use the CV style joint at the ends of the driveshafts, that usually gives enough "extension" room for most suspensions.
A way ive found to fix that issue is to double up the driveshaft
So i have a T piece on either end and connect with 2 bars instead of 1
It lets me keep the extending driveshaft without bugging out
But it does take slightly more space
For those wondering I haven't watched the video yet so maybe he mentioned it, but the crawler he has is the Axial Scx24th scale, one of the best cheaper crawlers (it'll still run you a hundred bucks) thes crawlers are amazing for new and experienced drivers, some more expensive crawlers from traxxas mainly have 2 differences, one traxxas crawlers generally have locking differentials however Axial's diffs are always locked, and some Traxxas crawlers have different speed settings (different gearings that you can switch to), Axial is a brand I highly recommend, i have the axial wraith 1.9 a 1/10 scale truck, and these things rip, my current profile picture show cases wraith covered in mud.
Annoying thing about my Traxxas 2021 Bronco (1/10th), she’s really top heavy lol. That’s the one annoying thing about the “lift kit” it has on it from factory. Two speed is really nice, definitely not as fast as a slash or 4tec Hotrod Pickup I have, but better than driving it around in first gear all the time. Locking front and rear diffs are also so awesome, along with portal hubs. Can easily flip it in second speed by doing donuts.😂🤣 I gotta see about getting those custom brass hubs/wheel weights to try and keep it more planted and lower that center of gravity.
But you know, other bad thing is that Traxxas name price tag too.🙃
The wraith is sweet I’ve got one
And I'd love to see more IRL RC stuff !!
In the SCX-24’s differential pumpkin, it’s actually a worm gear system to add torque to such a tiny 88T motor. I thought that was kinda cool about these tiny crawlers! 🙂
It's very cool to see RC content from you! I have a Traxxas TRX-4 Blazer and it's cool to see you are also into crawling. It's fun to see that you built it in gearblox, but I would also be interested in some pure RC content and having some discussions in the comment section between you and other RC people!
One thing to note that I didn't see in any other comments yet: Look at the SCX24 again and notice that the four rods (I usually see them called links in off-roading. "4-link suspension") are NOT parallel. you'll note that the two that are close together on the axle are mounted wide apart on the chassis, and the two that are close together on the chassis are wide apart n the axle. This is "triangulated" 4-link. the two opposing triangles make it so the axle cannot move from side to side in the real trucks.. I don't know if you couldn't do that due to a limitation of the came or if it just slipped your attention, so I thought I would point it out.
The upper links(2 front/2 rear) need to be farther out to the sides on the frame end and lowers farther out on axle end. That's what stops the axles from moving side to side under the body.
Dont know if that would help with exploding, but it would help a bit with body roll.
Great build👍
I was about to comment on the same issue. The 4 links all look almost exactly straight. And the straighter they are, the more the sideways forces on the axles are amplified into push/pull forces through those links.
Node-grabbing the top link over by 1 block has the problem of pulling the top of the axles inwards (forwards/backwards towards the center), which the drive shaft surely can't appreciate. Instead it might make more sense to stay on the build grid and use a (3+ long) block at right angles to both parts of the bar instead of a cylinder in line with it. (Yes, this can "twist around" since it's only connected with ball joints on either end. But that can be fixed by using a CV joint on one end or by just ensuring it has the clearance to do a full rotation.)
Or you could even "cheat" a bit and connect the two top bars on a side into a "Y" or "U" and link it into a single ball joint on the axle.
I went frame-by-frame through the "explosions". I think you are suspecting the wrong axle.
11:48 is the front axle exploding. 11:18 is the front axle suddenly "tilting up". In both events everything seems to go fine without the rear axle visually deflecting and the front axle is only in a wrong position for a single frame before the reset is triggered.
12:02 originates from the front axle "pitching up" and then travels to the rear axle and then spreads to both axles.
This theory would also fit better with the smaller "hicups" happening on the front axle. 3:49 for example.
6:35 for your question it is used in real life. The one on your rc car is a triangulated 4 link, each pair of links(upper and lower) make opposing triangles that hold the axle at the correct distance, pinion angle, and laterally within the frame. In the game you mentioned instability ( 7:00 ) this is because you are almost running a parallel 4link cause your angles in the top-down view are too straight. In a parallel 4link you need a pan hard bar or a watts link to keep the axle centered laterally. At 12:50 you mention the wheel hop 4x4's get when turning on pavement. All 4x4's do this even with open diffs and it has to do with the front and rear axles being solidly connected but they travel different arcs and distances through a turn. Similar to having a locked rear diff or front diff but more pronounced. If you put a diff between the front and rear axles you wouldn't get or get less wheel hop. Now that I think about it 🤔 your physics issues could be a combination of the two issues above. Your triangulated 4 link is not trianglely enough to handle the extra stress between axles due to 4x4 wheel hop while turning
Mad props for building crawlers kan, I'm glad ya ended up trying Rc crawling, I know you and Cosmo love drifting, but crawling is just as addictive man. Got few 24th scale, few 1/10th scales, and just got a ryft kit. Keep it up brother.
12:25 real solid/straight axel trucks and jeeps have the same axel binding problem it’s just the way they work my truck (2001 f250 crew cab long box if you wanted to look it up for reference) does it really bad I’ve actually broke parts starting from a stop a full angle on my steering. (my 37” mud tires and stock U-joints probably had something to do with it as well)
This is an awesome creation, would love to see it used more like you suggested on another map or track. Coincidentally, I've been thinking about getting into rc crawlers lately, so I'd enjoy the irl content as well.
Finally another rc vid also keep the crash lander vids going I love those
Definitely what type of stuff I wanted to see lol. Just needs an actual diff with lockers (if you can even get it to work). Really want to see a full on Baja/trophy truck with solid rear axle, and front independent and see how much abuse you can put it though. Or maybe play around with how the rear suspensions work on the RZR/Camam SxS’s. They’re funky setups with trailing arms and weirdly mounted sway bars that they have to do.
Definitely want to see more RC stuff imo. I have the 1/10th scale Traxxas 2021 Bronco and the either 3 or 4tec 35’ Hotrod Pickup, and they’re so fun. Definitely expensive, and top heavy though. But otherwise the 2 speed, portal hubs, lift kit, front/rear diff lock makes it so beastly. If I ever have the money I want to get the big scale XDR, thing looks wild.
You should get the crew together and have a rc event with the bros
I've been waiting for this for so long as a fellow rc enthusiast, however I am by far more focused on crawlers, have a redcat gen 8 v2 myself
The links aren't as triangulated as they perhaps should be. One set (either top or bottom) should be mounted as wide as possible on the axle and as narrow as possible on the chassis, and vice versa for the other set. Or for semi-triangulated, you make one set parallel (usually the bottom set, and this one is also mounted wide on the axle) and the other set highly triangulated, with it mounted narrow on the axle.
Also, if you want to eliminate the chassis torque twist, look into building a de-dion axle. De-dion is basically a solid axle connecting the hubs, but the hubs are driven by CV axles that are powered via a chassis-mounted differential. Benefits of solid axle geometry AND the low unsprung weight of independent suspension. You can even run inboard brakes with such a setup for even lower unsprung weight.
Like what i did see in your RC crawler. how about put more down gearing to those end of drive axles (i always forgot names) so there is more rpm and much less torgue to mess with the long axles. :)
My 4WD zoomy car has a problem steering without downforce, so I made downforce at home by having the drive shaft connect to propellers in the front and back via pulleys. It works, but it bottoms out the suspension, letting the frame scrape the ground, which actually helps until I hit a good old terrain bounce and get sent into orbit...
This is awesome
Yeeees dude. I know we were blood brothers haha FINALLY! ALL THE CRAWLER CONTENT PLEASE
Knowing Kan has various rc cars makes a lot of sense considering what he makes in games
your lack of power issue with this is mainly due to the sleeves being plastic. make em steel to add weight and extend the amount of slip available for more weight after the slip joint. make the 4link joints wider out side to side to help with the side to side movement on the axels and also the physics constraint accuracy in the world settings. (O, Q, tab 2, raise the calc rate to 3, raise the accuracy to 3.4)
1:03 you just have a locked differential, the power needs to make that split somehow. (Although its probably a bevel box on something that small)
It's actually a worm gear.
@@Grunk-ik9os that would be so Weird
@deltacx1059 It is. I have the same RC and have rebuilt the front end. It's not mechanically realistic but it's not designed to go fast
I reckon it would be sick to see you mod the crawler. There is such a good aftermarket for scx24s.
Awesome awesome awesome 1/24 scale fun stuff man
Great to see your enthusiasm into suspension, you might want to look into a game called dream car builder.
Dude that is so sick! I've tried to make stuff in gearblocks but I have no hope haha but you should definitely make more videos of your irl RC'S into gearblocks.
0:38 flawless channel switch
Great design one thing you could it would be a Panhard bar
would be cool to try and make something like the TRX-4 drop axles aswell, with gears in the hubs to give more ground clearance.
I would like to see more rc content and If have bigger triangles in the bars It would be less flimsy
super fast mat made a video explaining how the suspension on a crawler works when he was making one for his own car.
Show the drift track plz. We need to see you hitting it. Drifting is everything. Also, You should look into the trophy truck suspension more.
Are you able to stack the shocks to get more travel and flex?
Id love to see a proper trophy truck suspension set up with the damping and bump stops they have also with the independent front suspension
Maybe workshop hunters but with viewer's RC cars? Like a reaction video to our real life builds?
I believe many rock bouncers have this same suspension. Insane little trucks that just throw themselves at a cliff and somehow end up on top of it. And then just jump right back down. Them and monster trucks are the only things I can think of that I've seen with a solid front axle
Finally, more building videos!
A purely Rc channel would be amazing
Kan you are the perfect person
The scx 24 are my favorite crawlers I have 3 of them
I build a lot of custom 1:10 scale crawlers. So cool to see 4 link suspension in a game. I tried to do it in scrap mechanic with no luck. Just curious if its possible in gear blocks to space the links out? Like the lower links typically go from inside of frame to outside of axle and the opposite on the uppers. May help with torque steer and the crawler crashing in game as the suspension is likely mobing in ways it shouldn"t causing the physics errors.
I love rc vids keep it up.
I do some of this in trailmakers with trailer hinges
Good one!
Love your videos Kan ❤
would be fun to see that kinda of suspension on scrap mechanic
When you play scrap mechanic so much you build your IRL fixture & fittings from a destructible block.
Gearblox dev doing the real life equivalent of:
if (about_to_explode) {
don't
}
I have the same scx24 jeep it's really helpful wen you have more weight to the front and to the wheels but it is super fun and is really cool to upgrade
Look up Cape Crawlers on here. He can make those SCXs really flex.
I'd like to see you build an IRL life sized version of that RC car lol. would be interesting. maybe getting hyce involved.
Little did you know, it's the one guy that made Scrap Mechanic work in the first place, but the rest of the team wanted to go in a different direction, so he left and said 'I'll just make my own darn game' lmao. That'd be funny. (Not a true story, only a funny head canon thing)
Try putting a clutch in the middle of the rear axle, and make a 'carrier bearing'. Attach the housing to the upper bars, with veritcal slides so the axle can still articulate correctly. Just lock the clutch up at all times, so it's just a 'member' instead of a clutch.
The camera when kAN was filming the crawler suspension: "Imma ignore that big thing and focus on the car in the background"
You need more triangulation of your bars, or you need to add a Panhard bar. Your torquing and physics explosion is probably more a problem with wind-up in the drivetrain with each wheel wanting to travel ti's own unique distance around a corner. Happens in real 4x4's and will break transfercases and even CV's if your traction is too high between surface and tires.
Lol I got the yellow version of this crawler!!
With the new engines you can make it better
Scx24 has worm gears in the diff so it doesnt have a drag brake but it's close to a recreation lol jokes aside I build my Redcat Gen 8 in the game even had the panhard setup with the chassis mounted steering servo. Ended up moving the servo to the axle as well as the motor due to game physics not liking it. If you want to see it let me know. Though i doubt you'd have time to see it.
:30
Is that a... SUPRA
ok yes 8 months old but.. its called a long arm buggy suspension and the extra frame work on a trophy truck is a gusset or brace because axle tubes tend to bend
We need a "kan builds rc car irl" video
That binding when turning may be from the front and rear axles being locked. Although the u joints do so that too. That's why I'm changing mine to cv joints
I'm mostly re doing my stock TJ 5 link suspension. I should do a vid for ya. Very much same principle.
Idk if the game has it but the scx24 uses a worm drive In the differentials for better torque at low speed.
make a rc car with everything u learned/built for example, rc car with 4 bar linkage and the 4speed gearbox etc etc.
instead of using angle 180 as connectors you can use cylinders
It's been awhile since this video came out but I just realized he left the panhard rod out
Give him, the DIFF on the front and back, would be Cool.
I put a whole bunch of time into a large offroad chassis with triangulated 4 link suspention, a complex steering system that doesn't take interfering from susoention geometry, a custom limited slip diffential on each axle with locking capabilities and hi-N-low 2/4wd transfer case that can be switched between a locked or open connection between front and rear axles... just for it to explode whenever you let off the throttle. Tried turning off collisions, messing with world physics settings, etc, but nothing improves. Gave up after that
And yes that is used in real life those are triangular links or tri links I have been in the off-roading community for most of my life and I'm still a teenager but if you have steering nickels and maby widen the tri links out more and it should be like your scx
Kan on his way to make a Jenk rotary piston engine with the worst vibration possible in Gearblocks to prestige from scrap mechanic
07:00 I believe monster trucks use a similar suspension setup.
Hey Kan, do you think, you could recreate a soviet BTR-60/70/80? It's 8x8 but with a twist, it has every axle powered by an independent shaft from GB with a diff-lock, meaning, even if it lost multiple wheels, it was able to move. Plus one of the versions, had independent suspension for each wheel.
maybe if you did 3 link or 2 link it would make it not glitch out while still giving it the ability to crawl
That suspension is the same I have in my car. Triangulated 4-bar, the geometry essential to keep the pinion angle and alignment correct.
ive posted pics of the crawler chassis ive built in the gearblox discord. it has triangulated 4-link as well and all the flex in the world
is that a, IS THAT A SUPRA!!!
i frikin tried node bridging and i couldnt get it to work. id love a video on it, please!
Hey Kan! I had no idea you did radio control! I have done rc cars for several years and have quite the collection, which includes a gasoline powered one, drag racer, rock crawlers (1/10 and 1/18 scale) always cool to see someone who enjoys this hobby too!
Awesome
I don't have an axial 24th scale but I do have the Kyosho mini-z 4x4 with a three link setup. I wonder if the three link is more stable as it won't be pushing the limits as much.
Really cool, I wonder how long it's going to be before there's tire deformation.
you should try to build this in scrap mechanic
The links need to have some triangulation, the top links should be close together on the axle and farther apart on the chassis and the bottom should be the opposite, also the bottom links are usually longer than the top and they should be farther apart overall.
Would be terrible IRL, but I'm curious, as this is a game, if instead of fixed length 4 bars, make them sliding and the axle fixed, so the wheelbase literally changes length to keep the driveline constant length... LOL
The rc crawler uses a corkscrew gear for the "diff"
Kan, have you ever seen the axial smt10, it’s similar to the scx24, but is built to be a monster truck
Needs a sway bar or a pan hard bar
This is the same suspension as my micro rc crawler I'm building I just need to find a micro receiver and then I can do the wiring and do a few test drives and adjustments then I can finally use it
We need the tutorial vid. 👍
kAN RC channel when 😳
wait KAN has a life?. JK kan love you
can you do a tutorial for cassis build and suspention?
Are you going to add everything you developed into a one design one day?
You should check out crawling in beamNG 👌
When we getting more terra tech worlds?