I live in PHX and my 1994 F150 V8 5.8 just started to shift hard in all gears. It's summertime at 115 and some humidity. Just started to happen. I let the engine cool down and started in the morning (underground parking 86) and 1st to second shifted hard right out of the gate. Lots of heat lightning as well. Air Conditioners dual capacitors pop this time of year as well. Since this truck is over 27 years old and an original AZ truck (Heat will Crack Plastic) I'm going to change the (1) Throttle Position Sensor (2) Neutral Safety Switch on Transmission Housing (3) VSS on the rear differential. Parts were about $130. (Yet to install) I think static electricity has something to do with it, but can not be for sure. In any case for $130 I'm ruling out all three of those sensors (which could have been electrically zapped) or cracked plastic housing. I hope it is not the solenoid pack in the E40D transmission - that would be my 4th and last step. (Transmission fluid is light pink, with a very tiny amount of bubbles on the dip (tested after 45 minutes of driving). What I'm I missing? I tested every fuse under the hood - all good.
Whenever I got stumped, here's what worked a good portion of the time: Go around and clean EVERY ground you can find. I didn't know what the ground may have been for, but cleaning it often helped and sure couldn't have hurt. Even if it looked good, I cleaned it and either fixed the problem I was having, or prevented another problem from popping up. Best of luck!
@@IdahoLife Thanks CM. I think because I live in AZ we don't really get a lot of rust and this is not on the top of my mind. I'll check that out. I may have found a couple reasons my shifting in/from all gears is the issue. MAP Sensor (I know really!) and Transmission Neutral Safty Switch. I'm going to swap them out and see what happens. (Being 27 year old truck probably will need it sometime 130K miles).
My 96 f250 7.3 does the same thing. At first the speedometer stopped working and shifting was hard. I replaced the sensor on the rear end and it fixed it. Now the overdrive off light blinks when the motor get warm and shifting is haywire. Cant even take the truck out of town. I wish I knew it the transmission switch that this guy is replacing fixed the problem. Im also going to replace the blade fuses. I read that there may be a malfunctioning fuse causing the problem.
I agree. The guy tells everybody they are stupid of they forget to check the wheels, then does his shade tree repair and never does any follow up to say if the problem was solved.
Good job straightforward with working on the truck so nobody gets hurt keep up the good work I got a 1994 f250 I just got always had GM trucks but this truck's okay like the way it sets up high nice suspension good luck with truck
My scan tool would not perform tests due to it saying vehicle not in park or natural when it was in park position the entire time. Doing research now to see what I need to do next. Also got a CEL for a P1742 TCC solenoid failed on.
Funny. I think I just got a spanking that I'm not good enough to talk the wheels or bolt it in and hook up the wires. Thanks for the video it was informative only critique shoot the video where the light is coming at you instead of from behind you. Difficult to see what you're showing us.
I’m having the same problem but it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or not but very random when it happens, I can shut it off and crank it back up and it’s fine. Please let me know if it fixed it.
Mike Middlebrook unfortunately, no...it didnt fix my issue. Only a new transmission fixed my problem. Gotta try the easy stuff first though, right? Good luck!
Thanks. Unfortunately I've had the problem for a bit now..before my trans rebuild and since the build more often. Changed the diff fluid, the vss sensor, and now the psom. Haven't had any driving time on the psom yet. Hoping it cures it. Thanks again.
Any progress on your issues after the psom fix? Thanks...p.s. also having the same issues...some before rebuild and now much more after...new vss and pigtail only so far.
I had the same problem as described in this video. I changed my MLPS but it did not fix the problem. I took my truck on a 6 hour trip with my Gear Vendors OVER/UNDER drive engaged. I stopped for gas around 150 miles in and there was sizable puddle of ATF under the transmission. I lost around .5 a quart and started back home in hopes to not having to use a AAA tow. I checked under my truck every 5 miles for 20 miles and the trans leak went away entirely. I decided to continue with my trip and turned around to my original destination. I was driving my truck in limp mode for around 100 miles before I had stopped for gas. The overdrive light did not flash until I had almost reached my destination, but there was not leak at this time. I have now returned form my trip with the overdrive light flashing twice on the return trip around 200 miles in and 250 miles in. The overdrive light flashing indicates limp mode. Now my truck is getting a new transmission. The problem according to a world class ford mechanic is that my torque converter is slipping. This mechanic has my exact truck except with the 7.3 (I have the 7.5) We both have Banks exhaust, gear vendors, and he specializes with these old fords. We are putting a Jasper E40D up and i'm glad to finally be getting rid of this limp mode problem. My truck has been going into limp mode since December of 2015 here and there, but recently every time I take the truck out it will go into limp mode at some point in the trip. Otherwise it shifts fine. Thanks for taking the time to read this. I hope this helps someone out there with their E4OD.
I had a car that would go in limp mode. turn out to be a short on the blower motor resistor ...the higher the you turn up the fan the faster it would drain the battery... even with a good alternator it would drop below 12 volts.. used a cigarette lighter adapter with volt meter to check voltage. hope that helps someone out..
No expert, but on some f150s there is a speed sensor on the transmission, or on the transfer case if 4wd, AND there is a speed sensor on rear differential. I think on post 91 f150s they just use the rear diff, but on some pre 91s they use both. Kinda weird.
Ihave the same truck with the same issue I am pulling the mlps can't get the weird nut off for the shift lever any ideas for what size that is I have a 9/16 and a 14mm it is somewhere in between though
@@IdahoLife New MSLP fixed the issue, also re-pinned a new connector, these connectors are supposed to have a locking tab on them, apparently, well it was broken off disallowing for a connection to the sensors for VSS and MSLP
@@chipsutphintv8452 monstertransmission.com. Absolute garbage. Terrible customer service. I would never use them again for anything to include directions to the nearest gas station.
@@IdahoLife Heard a lot of comments concerning MT Found a local shop that was expert in E4OD's put shift kit and rebuild with special heavy duty parts that he had never used before. Not orderable in regular parts rebuild kits. Everything was better design with frictions, bearings, pump and different torque convertor for towing in greater than 8700# GVW I think the parts cost increase was about 300 bucks. rebuild cost the same for labor as std. rebuild. has been two years still pulling great also installed used deep oil pan from a diesel E4OD filter is with long fitting neck.
I live in PHX and my 1994 F150 V8 5.8 just started to shift hard in all gears. It's summertime at 115 and some humidity. Just started to happen. I let the engine cool down and started in the morning (underground parking 86) and 1st to second shifted hard right out of the gate. Lots of heat lightning as well. Air Conditioners dual capacitors pop this time of year as well.
Since this truck is over 27 years old and an original AZ truck (Heat will Crack Plastic) I'm going to change the (1) Throttle Position Sensor (2) Neutral Safety Switch on Transmission Housing (3) VSS on the rear differential. Parts were about $130. (Yet to install)
I think static electricity has something to do with it, but can not be for sure. In any case for $130 I'm ruling out all three of those sensors (which could have been electrically zapped) or cracked plastic housing.
I hope it is not the solenoid pack in the E40D transmission - that would be my 4th and last step. (Transmission fluid is light pink, with a very tiny amount of bubbles on the dip (tested after 45 minutes of driving).
What I'm I missing? I tested every fuse under the hood - all good.
Whenever I got stumped, here's what worked a good portion of the time: Go around and clean EVERY ground you can find. I didn't know what the ground may have been for, but cleaning it often helped and sure couldn't have hurt. Even if it looked good, I cleaned it and either fixed the problem I was having, or prevented another problem from popping up. Best of luck!
@@IdahoLife Thanks CM. I think because I live in AZ we don't really get a lot of rust and this is not on the top of my mind. I'll check that out. I may have found a couple reasons my shifting in/from all gears is the issue. MAP Sensor (I know really!) and Transmission Neutral Safty Switch. I'm going to swap them out and see what happens. (Being 27 year old truck probably will need it sometime 130K miles).
@@azwb did you solve your problem and if so can u provide an update? Thanks!
My 96 f250 7.3 does the same thing. At first the speedometer stopped working and shifting was hard. I replaced the sensor on the rear end and it fixed it. Now the overdrive off light blinks when the motor get warm and shifting is haywire. Cant even take the truck out of town. I wish I knew it the transmission switch that this guy is replacing fixed the problem. Im also going to replace the blade fuses. I read that there may be a malfunctioning fuse causing the problem.
I agree. The guy tells everybody they are stupid of they forget to check the wheels, then does his shade tree repair and never does any follow up to say if the problem was solved.
Me too!
The third brake light, try that.
So, did it fix it? I appreciate the videos, but the lack of closure on so many of these videos is a bit frustrating.
Would like to know what fixed the problem...
@@SchlongVelez yes please what fixed the problem. TIA
Good job straightforward with working on the truck so nobody gets hurt keep up the good work I got a 1994 f250 I just got always had GM trucks but this truck's okay like the way it sets up high nice suspension good luck with truck
My scan tool would not perform tests due to it saying vehicle not in park or natural when it was in park position the entire time. Doing research now to see what I need to do next. Also got a CEL for a P1742 TCC solenoid failed on.
I have the same truck same color. But I have the 7.3 powerstroke.. if your on the fuel it shifts hard.
Funny. I think I just got a spanking that I'm not good enough to talk the wheels or bolt it in and hook up the wires. Thanks for the video it was informative only critique shoot the video where the light is coming at you instead of from behind you. Difficult to see what you're showing us.
I’m having the same problem but it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or not but very random when it happens, I can shut it off and crank it back up and it’s fine. Please let me know if it fixed it.
Hi - Any updates? Did this fix your problem. I'm having a similar issue on my 97. Thanks
Mike Middlebrook unfortunately, no...it didnt fix my issue. Only a new transmission fixed my problem. Gotta try the easy stuff first though, right? Good luck!
Thanks. Unfortunately I've had the problem for a bit now..before my trans rebuild and since the build more often. Changed the diff fluid, the vss sensor, and now the psom. Haven't had any driving time on the psom yet. Hoping it cures it. Thanks again.
Any progress on your issues after the psom fix? Thanks...p.s. also having the same issues...some before rebuild and now much more after...new vss and pigtail only so far.
I had the same problem as described in this video. I changed my MLPS but it did not fix the problem. I took my truck on a 6 hour trip with my Gear Vendors OVER/UNDER drive engaged. I stopped for gas around 150 miles in and there was sizable puddle of ATF under the transmission. I lost around .5 a quart and started back home in hopes to not having to use a AAA tow. I checked under my truck every 5 miles for 20 miles and the trans leak went away entirely. I decided to continue with my trip and turned around to my original destination. I was driving my truck in limp mode for around 100 miles before I had stopped for gas. The overdrive light did not flash until I had almost reached my destination, but there was not leak at this time. I have now returned form my trip with the overdrive light flashing twice on the return trip around 200 miles in and 250 miles in. The overdrive light flashing indicates limp mode. Now my truck is getting a new transmission. The problem according to a world class ford mechanic is that my torque converter is slipping. This mechanic has my exact truck except with the 7.3 (I have the 7.5) We both have Banks exhaust, gear vendors, and he specializes with these old fords. We are putting a Jasper E40D up and i'm glad to finally be getting rid of this limp mode problem. My truck has been going into limp mode since December of 2015 here and there, but recently every time I take the truck out it will go into limp mode at some point in the trip. Otherwise it shifts fine. Thanks for taking the time to read this. I hope this helps someone out there with their E4OD.
There's a valve body kit, around 70 bucks, I'm gonna do that and see if that will fix hard shifting in all gears.
I think it is your map sender passenger side needs changing that should make your truck run better?
I thought this too on my 1992 f150. Didn't fix my problem.
Ty. Did it work?? I have same prob with my bronco!!
Ty 91 2wd e4od had me stranded stuck in 2nd shut it off and went away thinking the same thing here
Would be better if ya wasn’t the free video dark
That was 5 years ago, did it work??
I had a car that would go in limp mode. turn out to be a short on the blower motor resistor ...the higher the you turn up the fan the faster it would drain the battery... even with a good alternator it would drop below 12 volts.. used a cigarette lighter adapter with volt meter to check voltage. hope that helps someone out..
I think it is the speech sensor on the rear axle.
Speech sensor? Try speed sensor
No expert, but on some f150s there is a speed sensor on the transmission, or on the transfer case if 4wd, AND there is a speed sensor on rear differential. I think on post 91 f150s they just use the rear diff, but on some pre 91s they use both. Kinda weird.
Ihave the same truck with the same issue I am pulling the mlps can't get the weird nut off for the shift lever any ideas for what size that is I have a 9/16 and a 14mm it is somewhere in between though
Sorry, I don't recall and I've since sold the truck.
@@IdahoLife New MSLP fixed the issue, also re-pinned a new connector, these connectors are supposed to have a locking tab on them, apparently, well it was broken off disallowing for a connection to the sensors for VSS and MSLP
Did it work?
Sounds like a forward clutch seal.
Did it fix it ?
Nope. A new transmission fixed it, unfortunately.
@@IdahoLife Where did the first new one come from? I'm having this issue again on a new trans.
@@chipsutphintv8452 monstertransmission.com. Absolute garbage. Terrible customer service. I would never use them again for anything to include directions to the nearest gas station.
@@IdahoLife Heard a lot of comments concerning MT
Found a local shop that was expert in E4OD's put shift kit and rebuild with special heavy duty parts that he had never used before. Not orderable in regular parts rebuild kits. Everything was better design with frictions, bearings, pump and different torque convertor for towing in greater than 8700# GVW I think the parts cost increase was about 300 bucks. rebuild cost the same for labor as std. rebuild. has been two years still pulling great also installed used deep oil pan from a diesel E4OD filter is with long fitting neck.
@@mongomay1 how much the rebuild cost u?