Wow...I had a lightbox project but I didn't know at all how to proceed and I was struggling in Fusion 360...I didn't know yet that we could do that, from SVG in Bambu Studio...life changer, thank you so much!
@@ashleys3dprintshop I made my first lightbox thanks to you. I fell like it's a bit tricky though and very demanding to have a good result but at the end, I love the result.
You can also add Aluminum tape to the inside that will reflect the light inwards and block light leaks from unwanted areas. Just takes a bit of trimming with a razor knife to get the shape one needs.
Thanks, appreciate it. I've actually been trying new, to me at least, techniques for light boxes that I will be sharing along with other stuff. Stayed tuned!
Your tutorials are seriously helpful! I was wondering, is there a way to put an offset on one of them to give it a shadow line so light doesnt escape through the middle?
Yes you can! It's a bit trickier because you have to color the entire part. The SVG file can do some interesting things when you color it. You can watch the full video or go to this part ruclips.net/video/3zYdqUtVa3I/видео.html
Yes there is. it's diifers a bit from what we typically use. Negatives do not work. You would actually use a modifier and take out the infill and walls top and bottom. It creates hole but around that hole will be walls and such, so you would want to make it close to the top or bottom of the light box. The reason being the walls will start printing in midair so try to have it touch the bottom.
@@ashleys3dprintshop Thank you very much I have done it , thanks for all your videos . I im now making my own light boxs because of your help . Thank you .
not sure if you have a video on making the back plate that seems to be the harder part to figure out making a back plate that interlocks with a negative offset wall.
Hey hey. So my dowels were in a specific place. I split my equally in half. 65mm in z cut in half to 32.5mm the dowels were 30mm going into the top and bottom. So top 32.5mm and dowel 30mm of that. If you are making the cut in a different place you have to account for that. Also there will beparts printed in mid air for a few layers before it catches. So make sure they dowel holes are very close to the walls. I will be releasing an alternative/better way to make the back half. (it will take some time though)
Hello. So those lights last a good long time but I have never ran until the batteries drained. It uses 3AAA per bulb and 2 AAA for the remotes. I liked them because they can be turned off with the remote. There are a ton of options for led light strips though and some can be run on battery banks or power outlets. If you dont need to make it as wide as mine I would use strips. If you are kinda recreating what I did then you could almost do it step for step but move the placement of the pegs.
Thank you for this video. Question...when I make the top layer and infill 0 and slice it all looks right but my colored parts disappear and only show up as wall outlines that increase or decrease as I change wall thickness. Your video the bullet graphics are fine?
The slicer will look at anything touching the build plate as bottom and the opposite as the top. At some point on the video I flipped the model to face the build plate. Is your colored side touching the build plate? I colored the top, then flipped it over. Set top layer and infill to zero.
Hello, thank you for the question. I would recommend making the parts touching the build area a few layers thicker Assuming .2mm layer height. I typically Make the bottom layers 3 (.6mm)or greater. Theoretically you can go above this at the expense of light penetration depending on your colors, transparent filament works best. So try with 5 bottom layers(or 1 mm thick) Or you can stick with 3 layers and use a simple infill but it will show in the lighted print by using a height modifier.
That's a exactly what i was looking for! But i ran into some issues with this model. The connectors would not adhere that much and would break off. Increasing the layers seems to work but now the white layer is too thick and light doesn't go through it that much. Any ideas if i can selectively choose to have fewer layers of the white color and kore on the black? I would think that i have to make the kodel from scratch, but maybe you gues know a workaround. Thanks for the awesome vid once again!
I would make the holes/connectors deeper and closer to the outer (5 ) walls. My model was about 65mm in z height and the holes were 30mm up and 30mm down. . Plenty of chances for the holes to "hook" to the walls. The holes don't actually touch the top or bottom. There are ways to make other types of connectors, work but this was a fast and simpler way in slicer. Thick connectors and deep holes. If you make the connectors too shallow in my example it fails or does not have enough strength for the dowels. After the print I shortened the connectors to about 40mm in height. *Make sure you clone a dowel, and work on the clone to make adjustments. If you modify the original dowels they will modify the whole print. * ruclips.net/video/9UrBKPkj8CI/видео.html But the latest update has a "dovetail" option but I havent had time to see if we can incorporate in this project. And there are ways to modify sections of a print to use fewer layers with the "modifier" option.
The website is interesting to say the least. I tried to stay away from discussing all of the features they have because at some point they will not longer be in beta(Free). And I like to keep things simple if possible. I may make a video on how to adjust the settings. But I usually recommend simple graphics. (black and white) and no photos.
Incredible again! I would have tried forever to recreate this lamp housing with onshape. …but how cool does it work , with this slicer and such a perfect teacher. Thanks for all 👌
You are too kind. I think everyone asking questions is the biggest motivator I have been forcing myself to use the slicer almost exclusively. Thank you.😁
I'm having a bit of an issue when it comes to making a hole on the side for a LED plug to come out of. I thought I could just make a negative cube part and scale it to the diminsions I need but instead of making the hole it just pushes the walls in. I think it treats it as if it still had infil even though it doesn't. Do you have any suggestions for hole making inside of the slicer?
Hello. I should be able assist (a bit) 1. make a clone of whatever you are working on since the clone will be experimented on. 2. Right click your model and "add modifier" If you already created the negative just go to objects process right click on the negative part you created and make it a modifier 3. You will need to be in objects process and the modifier will be called "generic [shape you chose] 4. Move modifier into position, use move tool (M keyboard shortcut) if it helps 5. In objects process click on the modifier part, go to" strength"and remove top and bottom shell and infill. Depending on if the modifier is overlapping the side walls it will create negative in the outer wall. There are some caveats. 1. The modifier is a part, and depending on your Global process it will create walls around that modifier. So while it will make a hole on the side it will create a part on the inside of the light box. You could theoretically make this to your advantage and have a recess for a light switch 2. If you're following all of my steps part of that modifier will be printing in air so try to make it close to the bottom of the light box or intersecting 2 walls may help. So don't make it too large. SVG are unique and do not act like normal stl files so there is some experimentation that still needs to be done. SVG file type ruclips.net/video/3zYdqUtVa3I/видео.html
Thank you for that information. I hate to ask you more but I am a bit confused on placing the holes. They start to print in mid air. I seen someone else in the comments mention this and I think, from what I understand, you need to place the holes so they are attached to the walls and let the walls carry them up? I also noticed that I cannot make my depth ratio half of my models actual height, which is what causes the issue to start with. For example if my model was 40mm, i'd want my depth ratio for my holes to be 20mm but the slicer forces them to be 13.33mm. Again thank you for the help and the video, it's opening up a lot of new possibilities. @@ashleys3dprintshop
Sorry about the delay. Vectorizer is out of beta so no longer free and my answer changes a bit. There are a few reasons why Studio locks up though 1. The SVG is to large. I have seen around 1MB+ files cause problems. 2. The SVG is too detailed. Photos that are converted to SVG are notorious for this but it could also be images that are "busy" or many small parts. There are a few ways to mitigate this 1. No photos, line art or simple graphics 2. Reduce the number of "colors" to 2 or 3 3. Use a different conversion program/site A lot of this is trial and error but I'll try to make a video at some point once the dust settles from the Vectorizer leaving beta and I find a decent(free) alternative.
Just a thought - could you make a lightbox in two halves just by making the lower section smaller than the top, so the top drops over it like a lid. That way there would be no light loss through a seam. Or is that not possible?
Yes there are no major limitations on how you make the back. If you don't color it in its just a flat piece with no image outline. There may be some trial and error on sizing if your are trying to press fit the back though. You have to take into account the number of walls for the main piece and size accordingly.
when i tried to do this with a png file i have with 4 colors, convert to svg with multiple different converts an it worked better with some than other but it was like there was walls on the inside of the model an im not sure how to fix it. ive only had the p1s for about a week so bambu studio is new to me but im coming from cura with going on 6 yrs of experience using a bunch of different types of machines but this is the first time ive tried to make a light box like this, ive always made lithophanes an made boxes that held them but this is completely different. part of me feels like it might be the svg file since if differs from converter to convert but im not sure what to do, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
While I won't be coming after you this particular image is a well known and owned by the big *N* I would highly recommend caution and use something different if you were making items for sale. I am not a lawyer and this isnt legal advice but this particular company sometimes allows derivative works but they tend to take a hard stance against sales. Now if you are making your own original stuff for sale then there shouldn't be an issue. I hope that helps.
I’ve been having troubles with printing the strokes in an SVG file. Many svg’s have wide strokes and for one painting them is a pain but it’s hard not to get any bleed from black outlines into the colored areas.
Hello. My general rule in painting if I cannot get into small areas is to use the fill tool or enlarge the model a few hundred %. I would then paint then size it back down to its normal size.
@@ashleys3dprintshop have you tried to adjust layer heights above the stroke lines. We have been doing a lot of cake toppers and in the past have made them with a laser cutter. Now we are doing some with a P1S and it has been a learning curve with the svg’s. Mainly the problem with black strokes bleeding into lighter colors. I have downloaded some stl files of diff characters etc and they didn’t have stroke but the diff objects had diff layer heights to break up the colors. I’ve tried removing strokes but that just makes individual objects when you import to bambu. It’s a learning curve for sure. Thanks for great videos. I’ve learned a lot about svg’s and Bambu.
@@christopherdial So I go about it a few different ways depending on the project. If i am starting with an svg file and import it in studio( assuming a 10mm height) I can adjust part heights a few ways. If using an SVG this video may help as you can separate the parts height even by a single layer. ruclips.net/video/IeEX6vkzP4Y/видео.html Occasionally I will separate the parts into objects if I have a clean SVG file.(no gaps or errors) and group parts together and paint. ruclips.net/video/ZIZg7RPCsn0/видео.html Since vectorizer site went out of beta I personally went back to the desktop version "vector magic" to make my SVG. I am kicking myself for not making a full tutorial when it was in beta as it can help those that still wanted to use the subscription. Every time I tried to revisit an alternative (free) site it wasn't consistent. This may not be a full answer but If you dont have any issues sending the png, jpg,jpeg,bmp,tif,static gif,psd,jp2,pcx,ppm,tga etc over to my email I can see if I can clean it up. As for STL files they can be a whole different scenario depending on the model
@@ashleys3dprintshop we use Inkscape and trace bitmap usually. We have used Vectorizer as well. Really only having an issue when printing a flat top layer. I think I can scale the colored regions taller and leave the strokes lower. Another issue I’ve had is if ironing a top layer sometimes if the last color was darker it will smear color on lighter colored parts of the print. It’s an experiment. I just hate printing some of these designs 5 times trying to get it right.
Hola. Typically sell things local. (work friends, family, craft fairs, ) I should probably branch out online. Lol. Are you selling your models anywhere?
@ashleys3dprintshop ooh ok. I've only been selling a piece I made for work on etsy. I've thought about doing Facebook marketplace for other stuff but haven't done it yet. I think you should def branch out online with all this cool stuff you've been making!
@@rache5399 That is great. I have an (empty) etsy shop but admittededly get stuck on analysis paralysis. So many options and choices I end up doing little with it and just push out videos here. So... Many... Topics... To.... Cover... 😭 So little time.
@ashleys3dprintshop totally understand that. Keep at it tho, youtube has the potential to be very $rewarding$ and with more and more people getting into 3d printing it can only get better!
@@rache5399 Thank you for the boost of confidence. I guess I can start loading small things on etsy, get a website going on top of the YT channel. Money is a great motivator but it is only part of it. So many people assisted in this journey so it would only be right to give back. 😁
I am evaluating a few sites that do conversions for free but generally there is some weird glitch with the end product. There are ways to create SVG with some (free) programs though. I will keep looking for a free and simple one.
What an I doing wrong with the dowels? The holes for the dowels go all the way through the model when I slice it, leaving holes in the bottom an top layers.
In the cut tool and "add connectors section make sure the "depth ratio" and "tolerance" next to it do not exceed the model. In my example I took a 65mm high model and split it equally in half. So it's 32.5mm per side. Do not make the holes the entire length of the whole model. 4:00 I made my holes/dowels 30mm with roughly 2.5mm in wiggle room. The dowels I printed separately but there is a trick to it. In my "back to basics" video It shows you have to "clone" at least one of them then make adjustments on the cloned one. If you modify them directly it will affect the model too which could be an issue. ruclips.net/video/9UrBKPkj8CI/видео.html If you are still having issues let me know.
@@ashleys3dprintshop Thank you for the explanation. It finally made sense that the dowel is 30mm on each side (so 60mm total). With 2.5mm "wiggle room" on each side. Initially I used half the height of the total model. Thus the entire dowel is the entire height of the model. When I reduce it, the holes start printing in the air. So had to do some math to come up with: 3 bottom layers @ 0.2mm = 0.6mm. Then take total model Z height and divide by 2. Then subtract the 0.6mm. For example 65mm /2 = 32.5mm, minus 0.6mm = 31.9mm. Maybe you just used supports or I missed something else??
@@FrancoisStrydom-v1z I didnt make any major adjustments or supports. Since my holes did not touch the top or bottom they started in mid air but supported by the walls. They are long enough to correct for any potential issues. What I may not have mentioned was how to modify the dowels as I did shorten them by a 3rd. You would clone the dowel first then adjust them. ruclips.net/video/9UrBKPkj8CI/видео.html There are a few ways to make the model hollow. Modifiers, negative parts etc. I like to keep these types of videos simple to show folks they dont need to go into full fledge CAD programs to make things. Sorry about the late response your message was stuck in limbo on my side. Thank you for your question and resolution.
Hello. That particular filament is a transparent type for the bullet bill. But simple white will work just lower the number of walls (2 or lower) and you should be fine.
@@ashleys3dprintshop thanks. Because i Just downloaded a model for a lamp similar to yours, but the "top cover" is all black underneath i dont have the white colors.like you did that's what i meant for "transparent". I can't find the settings on bambù studio to print directly the colors on the plate and not having a black underline beneath it
So when I go to ‘Add Connectors’, it splits, but doesn’t turn black like yours does. Then when I add the dowels, they are flush with the piece, no matter the size of them. After I confirm them and make the cut, I’m unable to Split again to paint it.
Huge bummer. there are a bunch of free sites out there but typically there is some issues on another that crops up. There is a manually way to make it with the free program inkscape but it does require some effort.
Hello guys, I managed to reach the end but though the inside is hollow as top layer and infill is 0, the arm and the eyes build themselves with the outside walls. How can I get the whole body flat so only the walls and connectors show? What did I do wrong? Many thanks
Sorry about the delay. This is just one way to make the back but it is very situational. I uploaded a newer option for the back. It is a culmination of several techniques but the steps are straight forward. No dowels needed. ruclips.net/video/B3OWFiMjORk/видео.html
@ashleys3dprintshop Thank you ever so much for taking the time to reply to my message. After your second video, everything is solved. Really appreciated!
@@whimsygift watch how you paint the svg. Do not paint by numbers. Just the paint tool and only paint the outside. SVG files have a weird effect of you create a hole, modifier penetrating from the sides. You would have to make a hole/modifier from the top or bottom. I really need to revisit that type of svg light box as there are some "rules" one must follow but there are some neat things you can do too.
@@ashleys3dprintshop I used the bucket fill option to paint. So you're saying if I did it manually, it would only paint the outer layer and would eliminate the inside walls?
@@whimsygift you painted it correctly. There's a few way to eliminate the inner walls but the fast and dirty way is to go to global settings and remove the infill. Set info to 0% but you can set the outer walls to whatever you like
@@ashleys3dprintshop I did remove the infill. There is no infill - just walls that go through the lightbox in the areas of one color. I wish I could add a pic and show you. I also tried setting inner walls to 0 to no avail.
The dowels were a kludge method that needs to be really close to the walls. They also need to be deep in both ends of the model so the walls hook them. I have another method coming out in my next set of videos.
@@brianmichaelbrown I'm glad I can help. Also for extra insurance try to add enough walls to include the dowel holes. In my example I choose 5 walls but my holes and dowels were on the large side. If you have any other questions or concerns I am here to help.
Yeah. You have to cut first or it will remove all the painting. @ 3:32 There are a few things that wipe out your colors. Cutting, Repairing, mesh boolean. So you have to make the cut or changes then color afterwards.
I followed every step but when I get to hollowing out it does it but leaves lots of stuff in the middle, walls and pegs if that makes sense…. Help please.
Funny you mention that. The latest Bambu studio update added some new connector options. Dovetail and snap connectors. I have to test to see if they could simplify/enhance the connections. 🙂
I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Every time I try to cut and place pegs, it cuts holes all the way through the object. Can't really make a light box with holes everywhere lol
I really need to make a follow up to this video for a better back/joining option. The pegs were a clunky solution at the time. The model was I believe 60mm it was split in half. The pegs/holes were slightly less than 25mm on either end. so they would not penetrate the top and bottom.
Yes you should be able to add a hole, but it's a little different from what you would be used to. Adding a negative part doesn't work. You would have to add a primitive part, and convert it to a modifier and lower the infill, walls
@@ashleys3dprintshop can you explain why adding a negative cylinder wouldn't work? That's what I will try to do now that I've watched your awesome tutorial. I'm afraid your way to do it doesn't make sense like adding a negative cylinder would so I am worried I'm going to fail (won't remember) like I would if I understood their logic behind it. No worries if not, I'll go poke around and learn by trying. Thanks for the great start, I'm so excited to try.
Hey hey. When you are at the cut phase adding the dowels the cut starts exactly at the middle. (unless you move it.) my example I almost ran the length of the model. I will be showing another option outside of the dowels in the next set of videos.
A great tutorial but this isn’t working for me. I got the image. When through the Vectorizer AI route. When I download and try to send to slicer, I get a block. No image. I can't split then. Can't get past that step. Note: The split option on the slicer doesn't show as available. (I'm on a Mac if that helps).
Let me check, I may need to dust off my iMac but do you see an "outline" of your image at all? I never got to of into a full tutorial for vectorizer AI due to the "free while in beta" but all of the other free services are hit or miss with effectiveness. So I may bite the bullet and subscribe. Which version of Studio are you using? As a side note if you are using *Orca Slicer* it forked SVG compatibility from Prusa slicer which is kinda borked right now.
@@Ggoodnight35 excellent! Right as I was about to respond. Lol. I think around late last year the svg compatibility broke separated between the two. This was also around the time prusa slicer added their version of svg support. So orca is pulling features from both(Bambu and prusa) and also added their own implementations.
When I try to make this in bambu studio the dowels seem to go all the way through. No matter what height i set them to they still turn out to be the same height as the model and the holes go all the way
Hmm. I have a few questions. What is the full height of your model? Z height in mm What is the height of the dowels? So if your model height is 50 and you if you split it in the middle it cannot be over 25mm If your split is not in the middle you have to leave some room for the side walls to "hook" into the peg holes. I will be releasing an alternative method that does not use the dowels if you are just doing the backs of the light box.
Vectorizer was free while in beta last year. There are a few ways to create an svg file both free and paid. Also you can grab SVG files from online too. Be aware some files are to detailed to work in the slicer however.
Service used is outdated, cost money and does not work. Tried with 4 separate photos including the same one he uses. Video is sadly not reliable anymore
Yeah, it's been a small journey finding a decent "free" jpeg to svg service. There are a few out there like adobe and one other websites but they all seem to introduce errors of some sort. The alternative is to make the SVG manually with a photo editor, pay the service, or find the SVG directly. You can email me as well and I can see if I can make an SVG as long as it isnt too complicated. high detailed photos do not work well in the conversion or the slicer so keep that in mind.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Amazing tutorial, thank you! I guess I make lightboxes now... Top notch tutorial, easy to follow and understand.
Skill acquired! 😁 thank you for watching and commenting.
It was late when I responded but thank you again for asking for this specific project.
A lot of great tips in there - I didn't even know you *could* use an SVG directly in the slicer like that!
Thank you. I am still learning as I go and found so many new things by accident.
Wow...I had a lightbox project but I didn't know at all how to proceed and I was struggling in Fusion 360...I didn't know yet that we could do that, from SVG in Bambu Studio...life changer, thank you so much!
I've been forcing myself to use the slicer for most things and even my hacked method worked out. Thank you for watching and commenting
@@ashleys3dprintshop I made my first lightbox thanks to you. I fell like it's a bit tricky though and very demanding to have a good result but at the end, I love the result.
You’re tutorials are fantastic. Thank you!
Thank you very much, These words of encouragement means a lot.
I allready made some lightboxes in Fusion, but i never thought that this would be possible with the slicer so easily! I Love your channel!
With each passing week I and learning more and more. The slicer has some very simple but powerful tools. Thank you for the kind words.
This is exactly what I wanted in a tutorial, cannot wait to get home and start building my own LED lightboxes! Thank you!
I'm glad you found it helpful, happy building!
I learned about adding wall loops to keep that light from escaping unwanted areas
Small changes can make have some big results.
You can also add Aluminum tape to the inside that will reflect the light inwards and block light leaks from unwanted areas. Just takes a bit of trimming with a razor knife to get the shape one needs.
This is exactly the tutorial I was looking for; great content, looking forward to watching more of your videos!! Thanks for sharing
Thanks, appreciate it. I've actually been trying new, to me at least, techniques for light boxes that I will be sharing along with other stuff. Stayed tuned!
🤘BITCHIN🤘 Get out of my HEAD!!! 😂 You always seem to cover exactly what im curious about each week! You must be a member of the Psychic Network!!
That is awesome. lol.
Woo. Best way to make lightbox ever!
Thank you. 😍😍
Thank you very much. 😁 I hope that was easy to follow and implement
Do you have a link to that lightbulb? super handy...
I just left the link in the description. Thank you for the question.
Thank you for the tutorial.
You have a great voice, really nice and clear thanks
Thank you kindly! 😁
Is there a way to do something like this in the slicer except make the rear side flat and thinner to reduce printing time and filament
A superb tutorial, with lots of useful information. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
With the vectorizer ai page is no longer in Beta, do you have a different website you suggest?
Thanks for the tutorial! Going to try this out.
Hey hey thank you. There are some other options as well. 😁
This is a great tutorial, thank you!
Thank you very much. 😁
Much easier process. Thanks for that.
I knew there had to be a simpler way. Lol Thank you for commenting.
Your tutorials are seriously helpful! I was wondering, is there a way to put an offset on one of them to give it a shadow line so light doesnt escape through the middle?
Yes you can! It's a bit trickier because you have to color the entire part.
The SVG file can do some interesting things when you color it.
You can watch the full video or go to this part
ruclips.net/video/3zYdqUtVa3I/видео.html
Thank you so much for this tutorial. This has been very helpful!
Hey hey. Thank you very much.
what are the loops do again?
Hello. The loops were there to add walls to the model. It serves 2 purposes. 1 to block light on the side. 2 to hook the dowel holes during the print.
Anyway to make a hole for the power lead in the slicer ?
Yes there is. it's diifers a bit from what we typically use. Negatives do not work.
You would actually use a modifier and take out the infill and walls top and bottom. It creates hole but around that hole will be walls and such, so you would want to make it close to the top or bottom of the light box. The reason being the walls will start printing in midair so try to have it touch the bottom.
@@ashleys3dprintshop Thank you very much I have done it , thanks for all your videos . I im now making my own light boxs because of your help . Thank you .
not sure if you have a video on making the back plate that seems to be the harder part to figure out making a back plate that interlocks with a negative offset wall.
I haven't gone over that specific technique, as I thing I have a slightly different option with the latest update.
I'm wondering what i did wrong, my connectors are showing through my first layer on my Harley shield lightbox?
Hey hey. So my dowels were in a specific place.
I split my equally in half.
65mm in z cut in half to 32.5mm
the dowels were 30mm going into the top and bottom.
So top 32.5mm and dowel 30mm of that.
If you are making the cut in a different place you have to account for that.
Also there will beparts printed in mid air for a few layers before it catches. So make sure they dowel holes are very close to the walls.
I will be releasing an alternative/better way to make the back half. (it will take some time though)
Hey Ashley! Im curious how the batteries in these bulbs hold up? Making my brother a RUclips lightbox and can't decide on what lighting to use.
Hello. So those lights last a good long time but I have never ran until the batteries drained. It uses 3AAA per bulb and 2 AAA for the remotes.
I liked them because they can be turned off with the remote. There are a ton of options for led light strips though and some can be run on battery banks or power outlets.
If you dont need to make it as wide as mine I would use strips. If you are kinda recreating what I did then you could almost do it step for step but move the placement of the pegs.
@ashleys3dprintshop yeah I think for this project I'm gonna try the remote ones as well. I may look for a plug in option in the future. Thanks!
@@rache5399
HI, What AI tool did you use to make the INTRO logo?
Thank you for this video. Question...when I make the top layer and infill 0 and slice it all looks right but my colored parts disappear and only show up as wall outlines that increase or decrease as I change wall thickness. Your video the bullet graphics are fine?
The slicer will look at anything touching the build plate as bottom and the opposite as the top. At some point on the video I flipped the model to face the build plate. Is your colored side touching the build plate?
I colored the top, then flipped it over.
Set top layer and infill to zero.
Thanks for the video. Do you have any tips to stop the letters or graphics popping out of the prints with slightest pressure?
Hello, thank you for the question. I would recommend making the parts touching the build area a few layers thicker
Assuming .2mm layer height.
I typically Make the bottom layers 3 (.6mm)or greater. Theoretically you can go above this at the expense of light penetration depending on your colors, transparent filament works best.
So try with 5 bottom layers(or 1 mm thick)
Or you can stick with 3 layers and use a simple infill but it will show in the lighted print by using a height modifier.
@@ashleys3dprintshop I have a print with PLA Matte, 0.2, 1mm. Just black box white print.
Awesome video. Thank you.
Thank you very much for watching snf commenting. It means a lot. 👍
That's a exactly what i was looking for! But i ran into some issues with this model. The connectors would not adhere that much and would break off. Increasing the layers seems to work but now the white layer is too thick and light doesn't go through it that much. Any ideas if i can selectively choose to have fewer layers of the white color and kore on the black? I would think that i have to make the kodel from scratch, but maybe you gues know a workaround. Thanks for the awesome vid once again!
I would make the holes/connectors deeper and closer to the outer (5 ) walls. My model was about 65mm in z height and the holes were 30mm up and 30mm down. . Plenty of chances for the holes to "hook" to the walls. The holes don't actually touch the top or bottom.
There are ways to make other types of connectors, work but this was a fast and simpler way in slicer. Thick connectors and deep holes. If you make the connectors too shallow in my example it fails or does not have enough strength for the dowels. After the print I shortened the connectors to about 40mm in height.
*Make sure you clone a dowel, and work on the clone to make adjustments. If you modify the original dowels they will modify the whole print. *
ruclips.net/video/9UrBKPkj8CI/видео.html
But the latest update has a "dovetail" option but I havent had time to see if we can incorporate in this project.
And there are ways to modify sections of a print to use fewer layers with the "modifier" option.
@@ashleys3dprintshop Thanks a lot for the info. Will definitely look into it :D
Why is it that when i use vectorize ai it creates like 200 parts am i doing something wrong? Any settings i should change
The website is interesting to say the least. I tried to stay away from discussing all of the features they have because at some point they will not longer be in beta(Free). And I like to keep things simple if possible.
I may make a video on how to adjust the settings. But I usually recommend simple graphics. (black and white) and no photos.
Hello again. pushed out a new video that may help reduce the number of parts. Perhaps it can help.
ruclips.net/video/ZIZg7RPCsn0/видео.html
Incredible again!
I would have tried forever to recreate this lamp housing with onshape.
…but how cool does it work , with this slicer and such a perfect teacher.
Thanks for all 👌
You are too kind. I think everyone asking questions is the biggest motivator I have been forcing myself to use the slicer almost exclusively. Thank you.😁
I'm having a bit of an issue when it comes to making a hole on the side for a LED plug to come out of. I thought I could just make a negative cube part and scale it to the diminsions I need but instead of making the hole it just pushes the walls in. I think it treats it as if it still had infil even though it doesn't. Do you have any suggestions for hole making inside of the slicer?
Hello. I should be able assist (a bit)
1. make a clone of whatever you are working on since the clone will be experimented on.
2. Right click your model and "add modifier"
If you already created the negative just go to objects process right click on the negative part you created and make it a modifier
3. You will need to be in objects process and the modifier will be called "generic [shape you chose]
4. Move modifier into position, use move tool (M keyboard shortcut) if it helps
5. In objects process click on the modifier part, go to" strength"and remove top and bottom shell and infill.
Depending on if the modifier is overlapping the side walls it will create negative in the outer wall.
There are some caveats.
1. The modifier is a part, and depending on your Global process it will create walls around that modifier. So while it will make a hole on the side it will create a part on the inside of the light box. You could theoretically make this to your advantage and have a recess for a light switch
2. If you're following all of my steps part of that modifier will be printing in air so try to make it close to the bottom of the light box or intersecting 2 walls may help. So don't make it too large.
SVG are unique and do not act like normal stl files so there is some experimentation that still needs to be done.
SVG file type
ruclips.net/video/3zYdqUtVa3I/видео.html
Thank you for that information. I hate to ask you more but I am a bit confused on placing the holes. They start to print in mid air. I seen someone else in the comments mention this and I think, from what I understand, you need to place the holes so they are attached to the walls and let the walls carry them up? I also noticed that I cannot make my depth ratio half of my models actual height, which is what causes the issue to start with. For example if my model was 40mm, i'd want my depth ratio for my holes to be 20mm but the slicer forces them to be 13.33mm. Again thank you for the help and the video, it's opening up a lot of new possibilities. @@ashleys3dprintshop
I convert the png in the Vectorized, my Bambu Studio does not respond when i upload the svg. Any ideas why? Thanks for the tutorial!
I have the same issue
Sorry about the delay. Vectorizer is out of beta so no longer free and my answer changes a bit. There are a few reasons why Studio locks up though
1. The SVG is to large. I have seen around 1MB+ files cause problems.
2. The SVG is too detailed. Photos that are converted to SVG are notorious for this but it could also be images that are "busy" or many small parts.
There are a few ways to mitigate this
1. No photos, line art or simple graphics
2. Reduce the number of "colors" to 2 or 3
3. Use a different conversion program/site
A lot of this is trial and error but I'll try to make a video at some point once the dust settles from the Vectorizer leaving beta and I find a decent(free) alternative.
Nice One well done sir:)
Thank you very much 😁
I cant seem to find a good free option for the SVG. Adobe has one but every file I try end up with uneven lines and weird lines. Any ideas?
Just a thought - could you make a lightbox in two halves just by making the lower section smaller than the top, so the top drops over it like a lid. That way there would be no light loss through a seam. Or is that not possible?
Yes there are no major limitations on how you make the back. If you don't color it in its just a flat piece with no image outline.
There may be some trial and error on sizing if your are trying to press fit the back though.
You have to take into account the number of walls for the main piece and size accordingly.
nicely done :D
Thanks! 😄
when i tried to do this with a png file i have with 4 colors, convert to svg with multiple different converts an it worked better with some than other but it was like there was walls on the inside of the model an im not sure how to fix it. ive only had the p1s for about a week so bambu studio is new to me but im coming from cura with going on 6 yrs of experience using a bunch of different types of machines but this is the first time ive tried to make a light box like this, ive always made lithophanes an made boxes that held them but this is completely different. part of me feels like it might be the svg file since if differs from converter to convert but im not sure what to do, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Hi, I'm having the same issue. Did you find the solution?
Hello i have a question, can we sell the lights after their creation or do we have to respect some rules or normes ?
While I won't be coming after you this particular image is a well known and owned by the big *N*
I would highly recommend caution and use something different if you were making items for sale.
I am not a lawyer and this isnt legal advice but this particular company sometimes allows derivative works but they tend to take a hard stance against sales.
Now if you are making your own original stuff for sale then there shouldn't be an issue.
I hope that helps.
Thank you very much of coors I will not use this image with licence, it is Just thé fact of selling artisanal object. Thanks
I’ve been having troubles with printing the strokes in an SVG file. Many svg’s have wide strokes and for one painting them is a pain but it’s hard not to get any bleed from black outlines into the colored areas.
Hello. My general rule in painting if I cannot get into small areas is to use the fill tool or enlarge the model a few hundred %. I would then paint then size it back down to its normal size.
@@ashleys3dprintshop have you tried to adjust layer heights above the stroke lines. We have been doing a lot of cake toppers and in the past have made them with a laser cutter. Now we are doing some with a P1S and it has been a learning curve with the svg’s. Mainly the problem with black strokes bleeding into lighter colors. I have downloaded some stl files of diff characters etc and they didn’t have stroke but the diff objects had diff layer heights to break up the colors. I’ve tried removing strokes but that just makes individual objects when you import to bambu. It’s a learning curve for sure. Thanks for great videos. I’ve learned a lot about svg’s and Bambu.
@@christopherdial So I go about it a few different ways depending on the project.
If i am starting with an svg file and import it in studio( assuming a 10mm height) I can adjust part heights a few ways.
If using an SVG this video may help as you can separate the parts height even by a single layer.
ruclips.net/video/IeEX6vkzP4Y/видео.html
Occasionally I will separate the parts into objects if I have a clean SVG file.(no gaps or errors) and group parts together and paint.
ruclips.net/video/ZIZg7RPCsn0/видео.html
Since vectorizer site went out of beta I personally went back to the desktop version "vector magic" to make my SVG. I am kicking myself for not making a full tutorial when it was in beta as it can help those that still wanted to use the subscription. Every time I tried to revisit an alternative (free) site it wasn't consistent.
This may not be a full answer but If you dont have any issues sending the png, jpg,jpeg,bmp,tif,static gif,psd,jp2,pcx,ppm,tga etc over to my email I can see if I can clean it up.
As for STL files they can be a whole different scenario depending on the model
@@ashleys3dprintshop we use Inkscape and trace bitmap usually. We have used Vectorizer as well. Really only having an issue when printing a flat top layer. I think I can scale the colored regions taller and leave the strokes lower. Another issue I’ve had is if ironing a top layer sometimes if the last color was darker it will smear color on lighter colored parts of the print. It’s an experiment. I just hate printing some of these designs 5 times trying to get it right.
Those are cool! Do you sell your prints somewhere?
Hola. Typically sell things local. (work friends, family, craft fairs, ) I should probably branch out online. Lol. Are you selling your models anywhere?
@ashleys3dprintshop ooh ok. I've only been selling a piece I made for work on etsy. I've thought about doing Facebook marketplace for other stuff but haven't done it yet. I think you should def branch out online with all this cool stuff you've been making!
@@rache5399 That is great. I have an (empty) etsy shop but admittededly get stuck on analysis paralysis. So many options and choices I end up doing little with it and just push out videos here. So... Many... Topics... To.... Cover... 😭 So little time.
@ashleys3dprintshop totally understand that. Keep at it tho, youtube has the potential to be very $rewarding$ and with more and more people getting into 3d printing it can only get better!
@@rache5399 Thank you for the boost of confidence. I guess I can start loading small things on etsy, get a website going on top of the YT channel.
Money is a great motivator but it is only part of it. So many people assisted in this journey so it would only be right to give back. 😁
Vectorizer is now charging, what other svg converter would you recommend?
I am evaluating a few sites that do conversions for free but generally there is some weird glitch with the end product. There are ways to create SVG with some (free) programs though.
I will keep looking for a free and simple one.
What an I doing wrong with the dowels? The holes for the dowels go all the way through the model when I slice it, leaving holes in the bottom an top layers.
In the cut tool and "add connectors section make sure the "depth ratio" and "tolerance" next to it do not exceed the model.
In my example I took a 65mm high model and split it equally in half. So it's 32.5mm per side. Do not make the holes the entire length of the whole model. 4:00
I made my holes/dowels 30mm with roughly 2.5mm in wiggle room.
The dowels I printed separately but there is a trick to it.
In my "back to basics" video It shows you have to "clone" at least one of them then make adjustments on the cloned one. If you modify them directly it will affect the model too which could be an issue.
ruclips.net/video/9UrBKPkj8CI/видео.html
If you are still having issues let me know.
@@ashleys3dprintshop Thank you for the explanation. It finally made sense that the dowel is 30mm on each side (so 60mm total). With 2.5mm "wiggle room" on each side. Initially I used half the height of the total model. Thus the entire dowel is the entire height of the model. When I reduce it, the holes start printing in the air. So had to do some math to come up with: 3 bottom layers @ 0.2mm = 0.6mm. Then take total model Z height and divide by 2. Then subtract the 0.6mm. For example 65mm /2 = 32.5mm, minus 0.6mm = 31.9mm. Maybe you just used supports or I missed something else??
@@FrancoisStrydom-v1z I didnt make any major adjustments or supports. Since my holes did not touch the top or bottom they started in mid air but supported by the walls. They are long enough to correct for any potential issues. What I may not have mentioned was how to modify the dowels as I did shorten them by a 3rd.
You would clone the dowel first then adjust them.
ruclips.net/video/9UrBKPkj8CI/видео.html
There are a few ways to make the model hollow. Modifiers, negative parts etc.
I like to keep these types of videos simple to show folks they dont need to go into full fledge CAD programs to make things.
Sorry about the late response your message was stuck in limbo on my side. Thank you for your question and resolution.
how do you manage to print the white part as "transparent"?
Hello. That particular filament is a transparent type for the bullet bill. But simple white will work just lower the number of walls (2 or lower) and you should be fine.
@@ashleys3dprintshop thanks. Because i Just downloaded a model for a lamp similar to yours, but the "top cover" is all black underneath i dont have the white colors.like you did that's what i meant for "transparent". I can't find the settings on bambù studio to print directly the colors on the plate and not having a black underline beneath it
So when I go to ‘Add Connectors’, it splits, but doesn’t turn black like yours does. Then when I add the dowels, they are flush with the piece, no matter the size of them. After I confirm them and make the cut, I’m unable to Split again to paint it.
yeah, me too. How did you solve this? I'm hoping you did :)
aww man its not beta anymore is there another way? =(
Huge bummer. there are a bunch of free sites out there but typically there is some issues on another that crops up.
There is a manually way to make it with the free program inkscape but it does require some effort.
Hello guys, I managed to reach the end but though the inside is hollow as top layer and infill is 0, the arm and the eyes build themselves with the outside walls. How can I get the whole body flat so only the walls and connectors show? What did I do wrong? Many thanks
Sorry about the delay. This is just one way to make the back but it is very situational.
I uploaded a newer option for the back. It is a culmination of several techniques but the steps are straight forward. No dowels needed.
ruclips.net/video/B3OWFiMjORk/видео.html
@ashleys3dprintshop Thank you ever so much for taking the time to reply to my message. After your second video, everything is solved. Really appreciated!
I've completed the steps, but the inside of my light box has inner walls. How can I remove those to make it hollow on the inside?
@@whimsygift watch how you paint the svg. Do not paint by numbers. Just the paint tool and only paint the outside.
SVG files have a weird effect of you create a hole, modifier penetrating from the sides.
You would have to make a hole/modifier from the top or bottom.
I really need to revisit that type of svg light box as there are some "rules" one must follow but there are some neat things you can do too.
@@ashleys3dprintshop I used the bucket fill option to paint. So you're saying if I did it manually, it would only paint the outer layer and would eliminate the inside walls?
@@whimsygift you painted it correctly. There's a few way to eliminate the inner walls but the fast and dirty way is to go to global settings and remove the infill. Set info to 0% but you can set the outer walls to whatever you like
@@ashleys3dprintshop I did remove the infill. There is no infill - just walls that go through the lightbox in the areas of one color. I wish I could add a pic and show you. I also tried setting inner walls to 0 to no avail.
@@whimsygift you can email me, you can also send the 3mf file if you'd like
Adobe actually has a online tool that is free and does all kinds of conversions between SVG and png ect
I think we should stack all the svg conversion tools in out toolkit. Thank you for the heads up.
Thanks, that is the only one that did not crash my program
great video
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it😊
My dowel holes are not printing, I'm guess it's because they are going across multiple colors? That's the only thing I think it could be.
The dowels were a kludge method that needs to be really close to the walls. They also need to be deep in both ends of the model so the walls hook them.
I have another method coming out in my next set of videos.
@@ashleys3dprintshop they aren't close to the walls. That was probably it, thanks for the follow-up
@@brianmichaelbrown I'm glad I can help. Also for extra insurance try to add enough walls to include the dowel holes. In my example I choose 5 walls but my holes and dowels were on the large side.
If you have any other questions or concerns I am here to help.
Nice
Thank you😁
Why is bambu combining all the colors/parts as one solid model after the cut? I'm not sure what I did wrong 🙈
Yeah. You have to cut first or it will remove all the painting. @ 3:32
There are a few things that wipe out your colors.
Cutting, Repairing, mesh boolean. So you have to make the cut or changes then color afterwards.
I followed every step but when I get to hollowing out it does it but leaves lots of stuff in the middle, walls and pegs if that makes sense…. Help please.
I’ve sent an email with picture in hopes you can help… thanks
Hello. Just sent you an email that should help.
Do you make printable file for people? How can we contact for pricing info.
Of course everything depends on what you need. My email is in my about page. Or ashleys3dprintshop@gmail.com
can you show how to make an overlapping joint between the top and bottom so there are no light leaks? Is that possible in BBL Studio?
Funny you mention that. The latest Bambu studio update added some new connector options. Dovetail and snap connectors. I have to test to see if they could simplify/enhance the connections. 🙂
I just tried to do this and you now have to pay for that website to convert the file
I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong. Every time I try to cut and place pegs, it cuts holes all the way through the object. Can't really make a light box with holes everywhere lol
I really need to make a follow up to this video for a better back/joining option.
The pegs were a clunky solution at the time.
The model was I believe 60mm it was split in half. The pegs/holes were slightly less than 25mm on either end. so they would not penetrate the top and bottom.
Are you able to add a hole for wired set up?
Yes you should be able to add a hole, but it's a little different from what you would be used to. Adding a negative part doesn't work. You would have to add a primitive part, and convert it to a modifier and lower the infill, walls
@@ashleys3dprintshop can you explain why adding a negative cylinder wouldn't work? That's what I will try to do now that I've watched your awesome tutorial. I'm afraid your way to do it doesn't make sense like adding a negative cylinder would so I am worried I'm going to fail (won't remember) like I would if I understood their logic behind it. No worries if not, I'll go poke around and learn by trying. Thanks for the great start, I'm so excited to try.
My dowels start printing at layer 15 not layer 4 , can anyone help thanks .
Hey hey. When you are at the cut phase adding the dowels the cut starts exactly at the middle. (unless you move it.) my example I almost ran the length of the model.
I will be showing another option outside of the dowels in the next set of videos.
@@ashleys3dprintshop Thank you for all your hard work and help , Top Guy Thanks.
A great tutorial but this isn’t working for me. I got the image. When through the Vectorizer AI route. When I download and try to send to slicer, I get a block. No image. I can't
split then. Can't get past that step. Note: The split option on the slicer doesn't show as available. (I'm on a Mac if that helps).
Let me check, I may need to dust off my iMac but do you see an "outline" of your image at all?
I never got to of into a full tutorial for vectorizer AI due to the "free while in beta" but all of the other free services are hit or miss with effectiveness. So I may bite the bullet and subscribe.
Which version of Studio are you using?
As a side note if you are using *Orca Slicer* it forked SVG compatibility from Prusa slicer which is kinda borked right now.
I’m on the latest of studio but I use Orcaslicer. I see nothing except a block.
It is a slicer thing. I switched from Orca to Bambu and bam! All good. Thanks so much. Love your stuff!!
@@Ggoodnight35 excellent! Right as I was about to respond. Lol. I think around late last year the svg compatibility broke separated between the two. This was also around the time prusa slicer added their version of svg support. So orca is pulling features from both(Bambu and prusa) and also added their own implementations.
thanx helped out.
Glad it helped. Thank you for the watch and comment.
how would i do this with no ams
It would be a bit tricker. Changing colors happen At layers but theoretically it's possible but would require some extra work.
i remember being able to do it on my ender 3 using z hop, but have no idea how to use it on my bambu.
@@ashleys3dprintshop
now its different slighty and it wont stop generating walls on the writing
Did you find the solution? Mine is generating internal walls, too.
@@whimsygift never did. been trying for weeks....
getting really tired...
Hello thanks for your vidéo who help me very much ! I want to do a different back can you help me ? Can i send you a picture of what i want ?
When I try to make this in bambu studio the dowels seem to go all the way through. No matter what height i set them to they still turn out to be the same height as the model and the holes go all the way
Hmm. I have a few questions. What is the full height of your model? Z height in mm
What is the height of the dowels?
So if your model height is 50 and you if you split it in the middle it cannot be over 25mm
If your split is not in the middle you have to leave some room for the side walls to "hook" into the peg holes.
I will be releasing an alternative method that does not use the dowels if you are just doing the backs of the light box.
White would have looked 10x better
Definitely. When got that spool in and wondered how it would look with a light behind it but white would be in keeping with the actual model
vectorize ISNT FREE. you dont mention this
Vectorizer was free while in beta last year. There are a few ways to create an svg file both free and paid.
Also you can grab SVG files from online too. Be aware some files are to detailed to work in the slicer however.
You have more quality of light with led strip.
🙂 Definitely would look best with led strips. . I don't make many light boxes so the only light I had on hand was the bulb.
LOL.... Did you really use a full-size light bulb? ahaha.
🤣
Service used is outdated, cost money and does not work. Tried with 4 separate photos including the same one he uses. Video is sadly not reliable anymore
Yeah, it's been a small journey finding a decent "free" jpeg to svg service. There are a few out there like adobe and one other websites but they all seem to introduce errors of some sort.
The alternative is to make the SVG manually with a photo editor, pay the service, or find the SVG directly.
You can email me as well and I can see if I can make an SVG as long as it isnt too complicated. high detailed photos do not work well in the conversion or the slicer so keep that in mind.
There are million websites out there that are free. Don’t often puff over one website, not working.
I use inkscape