How to make 3D Printed LED Letters sign (ft. BambuLab A1 Mini)
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- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- In this video, i'll be showing you guys how to make personalized 3D printed LED sign. You could print your name or even your own logo!
LED Strips:
RGB LED strip (30LEDs/m or 9 LEDs/ft): amzn.to/4dUHp2L
RGB LED strip !!ONLY Strip!! (60LEDs/m or 18LEDs/ft): amzn.to/3V0jLdp or amzn.to/3WDnqPK
Filaments used in this video:
Blue (base): amzn.to/3xhIgdd
White (caps): amzn.to/45nw5Id
Download links:
LED "Like" Sign: makerworld.com...
Subscribe Sign: makerworld.com...
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🎵Music Credits:
“Too Cool” Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 Licensecreativecommons... 
Развлечения
You don't need to export every body individually. Right-Click on the project name in the browser tree, save as mesh and then select One File per Body under structure.
that‘s a great tip! Thanks for sharing
Wish I read this comment about 10 minutes ago...
show it in a video :)
@@gregeezy lool
Use the slower speed in the video settings. I usually change it to 2x
You don't need anything like as much sketch geometry or operations to do this.
Extrude the caps as a solid body
To create the 0.1mm clearance use Offset Face
To make them hollow, use Modify > Shell, and select the bottom face
To create the cavity and the ridges in the base, again use the Offset Face command
When using Offset Face, it will generally be quicker to select the whole body, then de-select the faces you don't want to offset (ie the top / bottom faces). This will leave you with all the walls selected
Also, all of the Offset Face operations can be done on all the letters at the same time
These techniques will save TONS of time
You are absolutely correct. You can also use Press Pull to create the 0.1 mm clearance.
When i first started, i watched tutorials where they used those operations and i ruined my model. troubleshooting took so much time.
So i made the tutorial using a slightly different method, almost a fail-safe way for beginners, in hoping that they wouldn‘t be having the same problem like i had back then.
I understand the shell command, it's the offset I am struggling with. When I have the outer walls at 30mm high and then select them with the offset command it is only allowing me to make the walls thicker. Are we not mentioning a step here to make the inner wall a little thicker and 10mm shorter with offset?
I once made a similar sign a few years ago when I first started with 3D printing, only I made it so that the back was open so that it was easier for me to stick the LED's into, and I made it so I can put these offset hanging pegs into the sign so not only did the letters light up, but it illuminated the wall around it too a bit!
Ahh, i was so creative back then. What happened? LOL
Best Tutorial I've watched, Thank you!
thank you so much!
I really appreciate these types of tutorials. But I wish people would go slower when they're showing how they do these projects. Most people just fly through the process like they normally would. But they often forget they are showing people how to do something. Something that people obviously have no clue or they wouldn't have clicked on the video to begin with.
i mean you can pause, rewind, or watch in a slower speed if you really need. and google is free for any small questions you have as well
I didnt want the video to be too long, so i understand that it felt a bit rushed. You can try to slow down the video abit in the settings. I hope that helps.
Then watch an in depth tutorial? You're obviously not going to learn Fusion AND how to 3D print AND how to design a working item in a ten minute video. These are more for people who have a decent skill set in the topics covered. I personally can just look at the videos thumbnail and recreate it. Which I might, they look great and are a good idea.
Pause button. Scrub backwards. Read transcript.
RUclips you can slow down the speed :D
very helpful, I'm making my own, currently printing them. thank you
your welcome, and good luck with your project!
Great tutorial! I'm a relative beginner with Fusion and this was very easy to follow. I used a kinda curvy font, so took some extra work figuring out how to clean that up and get everything constrained, but now I'm good to go! Started printing the first parts on my P1P. Thanks!
Thank you, im glad that it helped!
Excelent. Another way is use "thin extrude". For the caps for example, just extrude 1mm, extrude again 0.2mm in the oposite direction for tolerance, and again thin extrude the walls.
WOW, this is such a good explanation! Can't wait for more tutorials
thank you! glad that it helped
for anyone complaining about how fast theyre going, go to the cudeo settings and change the playback speed to .75 it wont distort the sound as much. but you obviously can do the slower speeds as well if youre struggling
If you convert the parts into respective components, then you can export the entire project with all the files you want being exposed at the time od the export, putting them all into 1 .step file.
Their quality will also be better as a .step over .stl
Great looking result and seemingly easy tutorial to follow. Can't wait to try this out.
thank you, and good luck!
This was good and can be quickened with some insight into expedition with fusion 360.
Great video!!
Though, 1 suggestion.
@ 7:27
You could instead have done just the single 0.1mm offset, extruded, then used the shell command on the desired face with your specified thickness.
This keeps your files cleaner.
Less bloat helps the project stay snapper. 😁👍
thats a great tip, thank you for sharing!
Awesome sign, and great tutorial on the modeling 👍
thanks so much!
Great tutorial, very detailed but kinda fast for this newbie. It’s ok. Ill just have to watch it 20 more times then on the 21st time i will pause at each step and make that sign 5 times until i can make my own sign.
thanks for the comment! Yes it‘s a bit rushed because i didn‘t want to stretch the video too long.
If it‘s a little too fast, would it be helpful if you slow down the video? (you can do this in the settings)
@@Lukis3D I felt the same way, a bit fast in certain areas for a total pleb like myself, but overall it was really informative and instructional.
Thanks a lot - very helpful 💯
your welcome!
Thank for the Great and easy tutorial . I was wondering is there an easy way to estimate the length of the LED strip needed ? Can fusion calculate the perimeter of each letter ?
Awesome!! You made this so easy to understand, thank you!!
your welcome and have fun creating!
Thanks! Now I can print a sign for my business 😊
your welcome, and good luck with your sign!
Very helpful. Thank you very much. I have a question. If I want to create a yellow sign, can I use a combination of yellow filament and white LED light?
your welcome! hmm ive never tried the color combination before, but i think the wall thickness of the base is thick enough that the light won‘t shine through.🤞🏼🤞🏼
Hi I have never used Fusion before and I am trying to follow your tutorial. I get to the same point where you try to create a rectangle. The on screen dimensions go from 0 to 75, you did some magic and expanded it. I have been guessing but no luck :(
hi there! when you draw a rectangle right after clicking a point, before clicking for a second time, you can type in the width or the length and it will be resized automatically. to switch between length and width, just hit the tab key on your keyboard.
Nice tutorial. Have you experimented with different types of infill patterns for the base model? Wondering what's the most efficent one while still maintaining decent strength.
thank you! no i havent, i used grid infill in this video, but gyroid seems to be quite popular in the community for strength.
Very good! Thank you very much for uploading it and for your time explaining it! You already have a new subscriber, thank you!!!
Your welcome! And thanks for subscribing🫶🏻
i must have something set up incorrectly in Fusion. Everytime i follow along with one of these videos, the presenter always uses negative numbers for offsets to draw an outer offset, but i have to use positive numbers to achieve the same thing. Anyone know why? Thanks!
very cool
thank you!
Thanks for this! I recently created a desk lamp using your tutorial, however I used a 12v LED strip and the lights became increasingly hot. I think I can circumvent any material deformation using ABS instead of PLA. But I was wondering if you had any advice concerning LED lights and the heat generated. Thank you!
This is fucking awesome! A plugin for this would be crazy! Thanks for showing this!
thanks so much!
@@Lukis3D You know if there is a plugin to automate this? want to do some for all 3 of my nephews rooms/setups
Suggestions on what to search for on LED strips with more lights per meter? Not sure what the correct word is to search for other than "brighter" led strip which doesnt seem to work too well lol
you can search for 60LED/m or 18LED/ft (if youre buying 5 m strip, then it should have 300 LEDs, or somewhere around 240LEDs for a 13ft strip)
@@Lukis3D Thank you! I did a little bit more research and it seems the best type of LED you can get for this imo is a COB (controller on board) LED light strip. You can't see the individual LEDs on the strip
👏 bravo dude. looks amazing.
thanks so much!
@@Lukis3D Now u say something nice about me
As soon as I press Offset 3:29 , the whole thing crashes. Cant get past this part
My first self made model ever was a similar led sign, where i followed a similar tutorial by Duke Docs on yt, but it was prette difficult to follow as the commentary is in Portuguese. You used a few methods that is easier. For example, the way he showed it, i had to use Inkscape to create the text as svgs, and then import them, but using the text tool in fusion, and unlocking them is so much simpler. I love the look of these led signs, but i dont have any text I wanna have a sign of, as i dont want just random words all over my wall😄 one thing I thought could be better with your led sign is if the led strip didn't follow the letters around the inside like that, but the letter bases was more of a box shape, and the strip would sit in a straight line in the top and bottom, shining in towards the middle. Would also use less led strip, and reduce the risk of the adhesion letting go over time, as a few of my signs did. Nice video, ill check your other vids now.
thanks for your comment! Yes i too, initially tried to use Photoshop to create the text as SVG when i realized that there's a better and a simpler way.
I think i know what you mean by the box shape, like my other design, the 16 segment display LED sign: ruclips.net/video/GzjDQleAKGM/видео.htmlsi=cRJjb9cK-Lx64d03
what font did you use for the Japanese letterings?
It‘s Noto Sans Japanese. You can download it for free on Google Fonts👍🏼
So usefull , thanks a lot ;)
your welcome!
Awesome tutorial. Subscribed ❤
Thanks for the sub!
what type of filament is used on the white extruded part?
i used PLA filament from SUNLU
Love the tutorial! Well done video
Thanks so much!
This is amazing.. I have watched many times, and actually made notes to try duplicating it.. but I am having a problem at the first offset - as soon as the offset it big enough to overlap, the offset disappears from the middle letter (I'm trying with a 3 letter word). Any ideas?
Started over using the word "LIKE" and it works... Why would the letters matter? Using same font - Tried using "OGR"
@@rctoyguy Hi there, i tried to offset the OGR and it seems like if you offset it in the positive direction, the middle one disappears. Try to offset it in a negative direction, e.g. -10 mm, i tried it and it works. Sometimes you have to play around with the direction a little bit if it doesn't do what you want.
at 7:11 it will not let me select the outer line , when I double click the outer line to make the 0.1mm offset to just goes the the inner line
you don’t need to double click it though, just one-click is fine. And make sure to select the line of the original letter. You can’t offset the offset line.
Thank you very much your video was very helpful
Glad it helped!
This is awesome and I want to give it a shot as it seems very practical. You wouldn't happen to know what font you used for the Japanese Hiragana?
thank you! of course, it’s Noto Sans Japanese which you can download for free on Google Fonts (it is also copyright free).
very nice video. explained very well.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video
thanks you!
Great tutorial ❤
thank you so much!
Excellent tutorial.
thanks so much!
Do you mind me asking how you'd do this from say a PNG or a SVG? I'm struggling to bad haha, I have the files ready but i'm so damn new to Fusion 360 I wouldn't know how to use those steps. Aside from my issues, brilliant tutorial!
no problem, in fact, the thumbs up icon i made in this video was using an SVG file. You can‘t use PNG though, u need to convert it to SVG first. Just follow the steps where i inserted the thumbs up icon, then the process is similar
I normally watch stuff at 2x, but had to slow you down to 1.5 to get the detail. I think what would really help convey your ideas is first going over the design using section views.
Also, why is you cap top and wall thickness not the same? Normally I do two or three nozzles diameters to keep the light diffusion consistent.
thanks for your comment.
I made the wall abit thicker to add stability since i didnt want them to be too flimsy.
Hi, I am at the point where I just exploded the letters and they are green. I click on constraints and I get the lock symbol but I can not figure out how to select everything. Is there a special key I need to press?
hi there, you can also select everything first, then click the lock icon. It also works. Then click it again to deactivate it
@@Lukis3D Thank you :)
Nice video! What filament did you use for the white caps?
hey man thank you so much! i used SUNLU PLA+
nice video. but PLEASE export it as step
thank you! oh is exporting as step better?
What type of fillement can i use for outdoor?
then its ASA. But you need an enclosed printer to print it
@@Lukis3D oh OK, thank you
nice video. many thx
thank you, glad you liked it!
Oh yeah by the way, next video can you zoom in on each mouse click location and enlarge your mouse so i can see what and where your clicking on so I don’t have to guess finding it even though you said what your clicking on, i still have to find it, by then your already 5 steps away then I’m lost and have to rewind or re watch. But you did get a sub for as detailed and is was already
that‘s a great idea, will do that in the next tutorial videos.
And thank you so much for subbing!
Is your use of Autodesk Fusion non-commercial here? I am interested since I may do the same kind of thing myself (making tutorial videos that may get monetized).
Hi there, yes if you’re generating
I'm struggling at the @7:21 mark. I'm not able select just the boarders. I am only able to select the space not the line boarders. Any advice for this?
I’m not sure what do you mean by line borders. At 7:21, i selected the space, right?
This is probably because the letter has an open line. While editing sketch, turn on ''points'' and look for white one... the white one means it is not connected
Nice Vidoe, but i dont understand why you would need to enable the support setting. Since your overhangs are completely straight, your printer will easily bridge these gaps, thus making supports unnecessary
thanks for your comment. The last time i didnt use support for straight roof overhangs, the filament just drooped down.
I supposed it wouldnt be that big of a deal since you wouldnt see it on the model anyway, but at least i had a peace of mind😄
Or jsut use gimp and tinkercad
What filaments are good for making the light bright enough?
any white filament would do. If you want it to be brighter i suppose you can get an LED light strip that has 60LEDs or more per meter.
In the video i used a 30LEDs/m light strip and it‘s good enough for me.
amazing Help !!!!...thanks
your welcome
Is it possible to make this on a resin printer? Great explanation!
thank you! I never owned a resin printer before, so i‘m not really sure
3:50 deleting lines for me generates 103494592345 more lines, each telling me the mm width of each shape, so it's overwhelmingly confusing. How do you get rid of that sudden explosion of measurement lines?
just uncheck "dimensions“ in the Sketch Palette window (that box in the right). You can also uncheck anything that you don‘t wanna see. Hope that helps!
amazing.
thank you!
What is the model pf your 3d printer?
its the A1 Mini from BambuLab
Does the AMS lite really holds up the abrasive Matte PLA?
i‘ve no isses so far👍🏼👍🏼
Hi Lukis. I´m from Brazil and want to get into the 3D world. What model of 3D printer do you recommend on a budget? Not too expensive? But good enough?
this A1 Mini is definitely a very good beginner friendly 3D printer. You won’t be dissapointed with it! You don’t even need the AMS Lite if you don’t plan to print in multicolor.
are you by anychance from indonesia?
What software is used?
its Fusion360
which filament did you use? Is it a simple white filament so that it shines through so diffusely?
Yes, its a simple white Sunlu PLA+ filament. the key is that the thickness of the wall has to be thin enough so the light shines through.
In this case, its 0.4mm.
What thickness did you print?Thanks for the explanation!
@@d.g.7253 sorry, i just saw your message. the face of the caps has a thickness of 0.4mm (thin enough for the light to shine through and thick enough that it won‘t break) . I print everything in 0.2mm layer height.
Is this all printed from PLA ?
yup, all SUNLU PLA+ filaments
@@Lukis3D Thank you :) I wish you all the best 🙌
Thanks for this. I just bought a A1 Mini and was wondering if I could do anything cool like this. What Bambu slicer settings do you use to make your prints come out good? Or do you just enable supports?
Also if I have a R or D in my word do I need to do anything to make the hole for the middle of the D and R
i find the default settings in the bambu slicer are very good already and perfect for beginners as you can pretty much print things like this without having to worry too much about the settings. You always want to enable supports if the design has critical overhang, like the holes you see for the LIKE sign. You don't want your printer to print in the air.
Is this your first printer? If this is your first, then you'll gonna love it as much as i do! It's so much fun to print with it!
@@Lukis3D It is my first and I am loving it. One more thing. I am having trouble getting the caps to be hollowed out, they are printing as solid letters. Any help is appreciated! The bases came out perfect though!
@@TruDadGaming is the STL design of the caps hollowed? Then it should also print it hollowed. Just make sure that when importing it in your slicer, rotate the model so the face of the letters touch the plate- you want the hollowed part to point upward, so there’s no support needed.
@@Lukis3D I don't think its hollowed in the design. I was following along but for some reason it didn't come out correctly
FUSION 360 ISN'T WORKING ON MY LAPTOP CAN I TRY SOILD WORD BUT IS THE STEPS DIFFRINTE?
sorry, i‘ve never used solid before so im not really sure.
@@Lukis3D what about autocad?
You could try Shapr3D
@@Lukis3D Is The steps similar in onshape ?
How long did it take to print and how many grams of plastic?
for the LIKE sign, it was 10 hours in total, and about 330g of PLA
@Lukis3D thanks 😊
Sub'd.
thank you man💪🏼
Disculpe que equipo de apple tienes?
i have an iMac which is from year 2017😁
Muchas gracias @@Lukis3D
Только закончил вывеску
Do you have a link for that printer?
sure, you can get it from the official Bambu Lab store: store.bambulab.com/products/a1-mini?skr=yes&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItcKL_qbghAMVBmlBAh2nxQWBEAQYASABEgLTDvD_BwE&variant=47355264467292
@@Lukis3D thank you! Subbed!
How long did this take to make?
the print itself takes about 10 hours in total.
Great tutorial, but you are going EXTREMELY too fast.
thank you! yeah i didnt wanna stretch the video too long
@@Lukis3D I understand. There is a lot to cover. I'm just going crazy trying to keep up. :)
How do you deal with letters with holes such as A, B, or D?
for the holes, use the same principle, just that the offsets of the holes have to be outside of the original line.
Terrible way to teach something.. OMG I have to pause the video and backforward more than 10x and its 3minutes passed... :(
sorry😅 Will it help to slow down the video abit? You can change the speed in the settings.
Bruh you gotta teach people how to use the software first before you try to run through a gauntlet of information on how to do this a lot of people are going to be lost the second you start after downloading the software 🤦🏽
I made the tutorial so that if you follow exactly what i‘m doing in the video, you‘ll be able to create the model.
i know it seems abit rushed, but if i would talk about the software, and what each feature does, it would be super long. I didnt want this video to be a Fusion360 tutorial. But i might make a tutorial about that in the future!
The tutorial was pretty good, even for someone with limited CAD experience 🤷♂️
Dude, go watch some tutorials on the software. You can watch 24 hours worth of videos and still not know everything. It's a very intricate software to use. With just the tools he used, you're looking at a video of at least an hour to teach people with no experience what the tools he used did.
10:09 Ahhh fire! 🔥🧯🚒