After making this video, I went back into my shop to find a very innocent looking snap ring sitting in the workbench. I left out one of the bearing retention snap rings. I guess I know what I'll be doing today 😢
@@nefariousyawn i have a 250 ft lbs torque wrench i paid like $50 for.. i use it only on my lug nuts for my wheels, otherwise proper torque is just tighten it till feel safe then sug it up a bit more for extra safeness...
"I'm very proficient at replacing wheel bearings by now." Two sentences later: "I forgot to reinstall the disk break shield :(" ...I love this channel. A lesser man would have just hid the mistake by fixing it off camera. Not Aging Wheels though, no no. Here we're treated to a very real response of basically, 'I wish I'd remembered to do that, but screw it, this wheel will have no disc break shield.'
Also, “I’m very proficient at replacing wheel bearings now” then proceeds to press the outer race into the hub carrier, by pressing on the inner race ... 🙄
Some poor sap who owns this car 10 years from now: "I didn't know why the brakes kept failing, but apparently it's missing this brake disc shield! I had no idea this existed, it just came in a bucket of parts that came with a different car."
They are actually not needed as long as you don't offroad. I had an 03 outback with completely rotted disk brake shields. Wasn't worth taking the knuckles apart to fix so my Subaru mechanic at the time just broke them off because they were so thin from rust they bent and contacted the rotors. Never had issues with something getting stuck and never caused wear that shouldn't happen.
And apparently Wesley Snipes too... ;-) I can believe Dank Pods watches though, I get the impression he's into much more than MP3 players and headphones.
I messaged Wade on Patreon a while back and told him that his rusty nuggets need screentime, and he said that Ol' Mate Mercedes and the others will eventually get their time to bask in the limelight.
I dunno. have you seen the way they heat and cool the HV pack? pretty overengineered to me . . but it also works. my 10 year old 50+k coda pack only lost 5-8% of its range it had new.
Everything about your content is pleasing and we thank you for all the filming and editing. You brighten my day and I'm sure many others can say the same. Thanks! 👍
Yet another example of dev being the common denominator of all the cool tech channels. It would probably save me a lot of time by just copying the list of all the channels he follows
I love how you're sticking with weird, mostly affordable vehicles when most of the other automotive RUclipsrs have gone with Italian exotics. Don't change a thing!!
I’ve been working on my $3k BMW on my channel, so there are many of us (just not very popular). Also, I’ve been subscribed to your channel since you just moved to that townhouse by the ski lift!
If you want to look at it in a certain way this is an Italian exotic, because the gas-powered car that the coda is based off was designed by an Italian design firm
You shouldn't press bearings in by pressing on the inner race. Press on the outer race. When dismantling and re-assembling tripod CV joints it is better to ensure that the legs of the joint go back into the same channels that they came out of. You could have reinstalled the shield by cutting away the small bit between the bolt holes and slipping it over.
Came here to say the same thing about the bearings. never press em in by the inner race, high chance of damaging the bearings. Also you can usually tell if the bearing is shielded by the part number followed by "2RS" or various other letters
Right after you said "I'm quite proficient at replacing wheel bearings now", you pressed the assembly into the knuckle on the inner bearing sleeve. You ruined the new bearings immediately. Wheel bearings need to be pressed into the knuckle using the housing and the hub pressed in with the sleeve supported, or the rollers press into the race and create imprints.
5:28 NOOOOOOOOOOO You are pressing the outer race into the hub by pressing the inner race with the press. Do you see something wrong with that? That's "how to destroy bearings 101" You need to press on the outer race with the proper round tool.
@@Vaasref Same problem. Bearings are not made to be pressed that way either as tools or directly.
3 года назад+2
@@freddyrosenberg9288 But the outer race of the old bearing is pushing on the outer race of the new bearing. No harm done. The old bearing is going to be discarded anyway.
I did the exact same mistake, but with the front fork bearings on a bicycle. Turns out the spacer below the handlebars are kinda important if you enjoy the activity of not having a horrible bike crash.
I love the sound the hydraulic presses make when they retract, they sound happy to have done all that heavy pressing. *“I did a good job smashing that bearing in, didn’t I?! Fweeeeeeee!”*
Id say if you didnt want to disassemble everything to put the brake shield back on, maybe can cut a slit between the two bolt holes and contort the shield back on and over. Then when you bolt it back up the bolts will clamp down and hold the shield back and wont worry about that split in it.
I actually winced when Robert stuck his finger in the snap ring before he got it all the way off. Been there, done that and nearly regretted it. I freaking hate snap rings!
Some possible causes of "rumbling/vibrating on acceleration" are damaged inner CV joint (good odds, especially if you have either a cheap joint or drove the ripped boot joint for long enough to let most of the grease out, which appears the case. Wear has happened). bad engine/motor mounts (I had terrible acceleration, shifting, and idle with bad engine mounts. No clue how it would affect an electric via CVT car though) unbalanced tires (super unlikely as you mentioned "on acceleration". that issue tends to manifest at 30+ mph)
my man! never press a bearing in using the inner race! always press the outer race in using the outer race! you will destroy the bearings if you dont. anyways, enjoying your content! - City Bus Mechanic
Going to need a couple bearings to get around the block. Damn Chinese cars why must they be so reliable. I had to basically keep a trunk full of bearings for my Mercedes.
The preload on tapered bearings should be very little, in every case of wheel hub use such as trailers that I’ve ever seen, there should actually be a “perceived” feel of free play when rocking the tire. Not a huge clunking like when you started, but just a little movement that can be felt when rocking the tire. Over tight tapered bearings will burn up and 150 pounds it too much. Ball bearings can take pressure from all sides and are great for front wheel bearings where an axle goes through the hub and the nut needs to be torqued to 150, most modern front drive vehicles use a pair of roller bearings in one wide housing. I’d change those to sealed ball bearings that fit inside the knuckle and through the hub.
"I have become very proficient at replacing wheel bearings!" >very next shot shows him pressing the bearing in via the inner race< Me: Keep practicing!
I feel your pain with the brake shield. But I have a helpful tip: You shouldn't really press on the inner race of a press-fit bearing if the outer race is what seats. You're also pressing the bearings into the races if you do that, you should only press on the outer. Also I fitted my engine coolant pump today. Twice. Had to take it back off again as there was no way to refit one of the hose clamps unless it was already on the hose, waiting to be moved up and secured, I had it waiting on the pipe, expecting to move it down - and a bloody bastard bolt ended up in the way. So yeah, me too!
I once sent off a really old Mazda 323, with my first-time wheel bearing replacement. The only problem was the spacer/shim that I hadn’t seen, lying on our workbench... the nice lady who owned the vehicle, had an awesome experience on the motorway - at speed!
Fair warning those stainless steel zip ties do not apply enough clumping Force and you need the actual crimp on clamps I have done this many a Time also making sure the CV joints have plenty of Grease will help with any noise
Next time you replace the bearings use a bearing puller/installer kit like Astro Pneumatic 78825. Pressing the bearing into the knuckle by putting pressure only on the outer race is really, really good for longevity.
Damn I love that editing on the removal of the hub. Just enough to show everything that happened, including the goof-ups (we all make 'em), and the length is perfect so as to not feel drawn out. Such a treat!
What a crappy front end design. Nothing wrong with tapered roller bearigns in this application though, as long as the setup is designed properly. What my '85 F150 uses and the bearings last decades in there.
This might be an interesting fact for someone. If you remove the brake shield on a SAAB 9000 you'll get the same problem with loose bearings. It took me a while (three bearing replacements and a ton of forum searching) to realise why it was eating wheel bearings for breakfast, I thought maybe it had something to do with wheel offset, size, tire width, ride height, amount of horsepower/torque output since it's modified and stage 3 tuned, but nope! It was the shield that acts as a spacer! And the shields rust pretty badly over time so when you change wheel bearing you have to buy new shield as well, at least if it's high milage or in an area with salted roads. The 9000 uses shielded angular contact hub bearings if you're wondering. I could only find two other people online talking about it and I've had several 9000s myself (thought I knew them inside and out) and gone to auto mechanics school and still had no idea... So it might have something to do with bearings and cv joints from different manufacturers varying just a fraction from the original design which means you'll get tiny bit of play without the shield, but buying original isn't really an option for an old car from a brand that went bankrupt and if you get hold of proper OEM parts they're often way too expensive anyways!
Didnt you get a 3d printer? I wonder if you can print replacement gears for the rear windows. Interesting video for sure, what use is the brake shield that you left out? What impact over time would not having that in there cause?
I wonder what the thought process was for Coda to use unshielded bearings in the first place. Anyway looks like you got the wheel bearing replacement process down to a science.
When you get to those rear windows Honda shin etsu silicone grease is the best stuff to lubricate the window tracks. Found out about it from the Miata forums but have been using it forever on all my cars. It lasts far longer than anything else and hardly attracts any dirt. Way better than any other car manufacturers factory grease and I've never had to re-grease a window I did with it - even 15 years later.
Hey Roberts. I am worried about your two post lift because @0:25 it seemed to drop down a little and I am no expert, but I assume this i s not normal. Stay safe!
When you took the CV joint apart to replace the boot, did you put the bearing assembly back on so that it is in phase with the one at the other end of the shaft ? Unless that assembly has a blind spline it is very easy to put that unit back together out of phase which can cause your rumble feel on acceleration.
@@lustfulvengance no problem just saying that some of the CV style joints have three bearings/ balls inside and if the other end is similar they can be installed out of phase
You know... you could notch out that missing shield plate so it slips right in there. The key of course would be not to remove any part of the shield directly related to fastening it in place.
Why would you cut the original boot clamps off? They are designed to be removed. I don’t know man, I’ve just simply removed mine, New boot, fresh grease and reused them
"I didn't show it on camera, but I did properly torque down the axel nut in the middle to 150 pound feet of torque. I had no idea what to torque it to, so I just picked a number. And I picked that number, because that's as high as my torque wrench would go." OMG! LMFAO!
I just torqued it to 150 bc thats as high as my torque wrench would go. Same but since everyone said it needed 180 ft lbs on my car I went 40 degrees passed 150 and broke my torque wrench...
Why? Part of it, It sat for a long time, and where you didn't add in the missing part it fucked the new ones right quick. Sitting is REALLY BAD on cars and can even screw with replacement parts if they're not done well or if other parts damaged by sitting aren't replaced, especially in the case of bearings and whatnot where if one part is broken it'll mess with everything else in the assembly. The bad CV axles could've had something to do with the bearings failing, too, if they had lost enough lubricant. Interesting to see how everything goes together on these. They look cheaper than cheap. Like the bad kind of third party.
Man I'm so glad I'm not the only one that struggles with those bloody drive shaft clips! VW use things that look like circlips but they don't have the holes in them.
Wait til the kingpin goes on your Robin... makes it like an out of control shopping trolley castor lol And its a crappy job to fix too :( I had the joys of dealing with Morris Marina door internals today, the rod from interior handle popped off the arm in the lock so gave the whole door a service, greased up the window mechanism, oiled the door hinges and locks, put bigger self tappers to hold the door card on and permanently converted my Robin into a van removing the ultra rare 65 rear Connolly leather seats in the striking red piped 2 tone grey thick leather.
After making this video, I went back into my shop to find a very innocent looking snap ring sitting in the workbench. I left out one of the bearing retention snap rings. I guess I know what I'll be doing today 😢
I was almost too early to see this. 😲
It's side with the brake shield...
Murphy said so.
Oh no! Good luck!
Oh snap!
That'll teach ya to celebrate 8:40 how easy that one snap ring went back on.
"I torqued it down to a number that sounded high enough to instill a false sense of security in my mechanical acumen."
Someone buy this guy a higher range torque wrench!
That's exactly how engineers decide torque values in machines they design.
@@nefariousyawn i have a 250 ft lbs torque wrench i paid like $50 for.. i use it only on my lug nuts for my wheels, otherwise proper torque is just tighten it till feel safe then sug it up a bit more for extra safeness...
@@Honeypot-x9s but most lug nuts spec 90 ft-lbs (~120 NM)
I mostly use one elbow length of "ughn" on wheel nuts.
"I'm very proficient at replacing wheel bearings by now." Two sentences later: "I forgot to reinstall the disk break shield :(" ...I love this channel. A lesser man would have just hid the mistake by fixing it off camera. Not Aging Wheels though, no no. Here we're treated to a very real response of basically, 'I wish I'd remembered to do that, but screw it, this wheel will have no disc break shield.'
And in these comments his admitted to missing a snap ring too! He's people just like me!
Well, discovering that loose snap ring means he'll get a chance to forget that brake shield again :P
He did say wheel bearings. He didn't say anything about disc shields.
That was the wrong bolt, pretend that didn't happen
Also, “I’m very proficient at replacing wheel bearings now” then proceeds to press the outer race into the hub carrier, by pressing on the inner race ... 🙄
Some poor sap who owns this car 10 years from now:
"I didn't know why the brakes kept failing, but apparently it's missing this brake disc shield! I had no idea this existed, it just came in a bucket of parts that came with a different car."
They are actually not needed as long as you don't offroad. I had an 03 outback with completely rotted disk brake shields. Wasn't worth taking the knuckles apart to fix so my Subaru mechanic at the time just broke them off because they were so thin from rust they bent and contacted the rotors. Never had issues with something getting stuck and never caused wear that shouldn't happen.
Bruh. Dank Pods is one of your Patreon supporters?!?!?!?!?!? Epic crossover.
And apparently Wesley Snipes too... ;-) I can believe Dank Pods watches though, I get the impression he's into much more than MP3 players and headphones.
@@christhesnaildriver he drives a nugget and mentioned doing engine swaps and engine work. He's what I want to become.
I messaged Wade on Patreon a while back and told him that his rusty nuggets need screentime, and he said that Ol' Mate Mercedes and the others will eventually get their time to bask in the limelight.
IT'S BECAUSE THEY'RE BOTH GAYLORD PEOPLE!!!!
W H A T
"Wish I had remembered that"
Buddy we all tell ourselves that at least once a day
I love how he does not think the coda will last 25 thousand miles famous last words just incase it does lol
That bearing is going to be loaded up with brake dust.
@@tarstarkusz lol. not
@ Why do you think the shield is there in the first place? Brake dust WILL get in those bearings.
Exactly, we all do stupid stuff and regret it later/
That Koda really has some fast-Aging Wheels, doesn't it now? heh... heh heh heh... yeah I'll get off the stage now
i spent the last 1/2 hour trying to figure this out, u are right about getting off the stage though
Ahhhhh! How many children do you have? Because with perfect dad jokes like that, I'm sure you have! 😂
(standing ovation)
..
get out
You forgot your jacket.
You didn't forget the disc brake shield, you were lightening the car for performance and racing speed... :P
Weight reduction bro
@@Ideal1980 good thing that it is a disc brake shield and not a heat shield then.
"Simplify, and add lightness!"
Removed unsprung weight!
"Overengineered" - a term nobody, ever, applied to any aspect of this car.
It is overengineered, hey could have just slapped in a diesel engine and call it a day :P
@@ravenouself4181 That is actually way more complex.
I dunno. have you seen the way they heat and cool the HV pack? pretty overengineered to me . . but it also works. my 10 year old 50+k coda pack only lost 5-8% of its range it had new.
11:36 DankPods? Oh man. You've really made it now.
King of the nuggets!
Yeah i also noticed it a few videos ago. WE NEED A CROSSOVER EPISODE SOMETIME AFTER RONA
@@ffturbo Mr Dank did say he had a collection of cars and might be working on them.. So maybe just maybe
It's nice to see at least 10 of us have a good sense of quality programming.
@@ffturbo I wonder if the sound system in the Coda is iPod-aware...
Everything about your content is pleasing and we thank you for all the filming and editing. You brighten my day and I'm sure many others can say the same. Thanks! 👍
Oh Hey Deviant! Didn't expect to see you here!
@@ale6242 I snuck in without authorization. :-)
Yet another example of dev being the common denominator of all the cool tech channels. It would probably save me a lot of time by just copying the list of all the channels he follows
Oh hey! My favorite almost criminal is here!
@@Destined4gr8nes 😉
I love how you're sticking with weird, mostly affordable vehicles when most of the other automotive RUclipsrs have gone with Italian exotics. Don't change a thing!!
I’ve been working on my $3k BMW on my channel, so there are many of us (just not very popular). Also, I’ve been subscribed to your channel since you just moved to that townhouse by the ski lift!
Seriously?!? I watch your channel quite often!
HEY HOWS IT GOING!
If you want to look at it in a certain way this is an Italian exotic, because the gas-powered car that the coda is based off was designed by an Italian design firm
Careful with your new ratchet. Your ryobi tools might gang up on you.
If Project Farm's testing is any indicator, the ratchet should be able to defend itself well enough.
that's fine tti makes Milwaukee as well
@@ShadowBurn680 The Milwaukee bros I know get so butthurt at the very mention of TTI's existence. It's entertaining.
Question: Does the disc brake dust cover also act as a spacer in the same way as the other spacer?
Oh no.. ..
Not familiar with this particular vehicle, but generally they bolt on to the nuckle. So not a spacer.
Spacing things out is very important. That's what I learned.
I've learned the same thing
From my parents divorce
I bet the Coda will break in a strange way due to either the disk break shield or the snap ring missing, causing C O N T E N T to happen
Do you even A L G O R I T H M
I suppose forgetting the disc brake shield meant the job was "Under Dunn"? Sorry, couldn't resist. Nice work!! Cheers!!
You shouldn't press bearings in by pressing on the inner race. Press on the outer race. When dismantling and re-assembling tripod CV joints it is better to ensure that the legs of the joint go back into the same channels that they came out of. You could have reinstalled the shield by cutting away the small bit between the bolt holes and slipping it over.
Came here to say the same thing about the bearings. never press em in by the inner race, high chance of damaging the bearings. Also you can usually tell if the bearing is shielded by the part number followed by "2RS" or various other letters
He was pressing them in using an old bearing. The new bearing would only be pressed against by the outer race with this bearing design.
I see the Yugo is on rollers, you cant hide your projects from me
Right after you said "I'm quite proficient at replacing wheel bearings now", you pressed the assembly into the knuckle on the inner bearing sleeve. You ruined the new bearings immediately. Wheel bearings need to be pressed into the knuckle using the housing and the hub pressed in with the sleeve supported, or the rollers press into the race and create imprints.
Came to the comments to say exactly this
@@warmowed Same here.
5:28 NOOOOOOOOOOO You are pressing the outer race into the hub by pressing the inner race with the press. Do you see something wrong with that? That's "how to destroy bearings 101" You need to press on the outer race with the proper round tool.
I winced so hard when I saw that. Ouch
He uses the old bearing to press the new in.
@@Vaasref Same problem. Bearings are not made to be pressed that way either as tools or directly.
@@freddyrosenberg9288 But the outer race of the old bearing is pushing on the outer race of the new bearing. No harm done. The old bearing is going to be discarded anyway.
@ Wrong logic. Think about it. The old bearing is not a solid piece of steel, it gives.
My chosen torque value was a bit les than the previous time when I sheared off the bolt. Worked like a charm
Something else that adds to wheel bearing longevity: pressing in your new bearings with the outer race. Never the inner.
YES, that was cringe to see, when he pressed those in 🤥
I was looking for this comment! Poor double row bearing has no chance
Look closer: he's using the old bearing as a tool...
@ still, pressing in the middle. Especially with the old bearings, which were loose anyway - so all pressure will go down in the middlesection.
@@horstwinterscheid4927 But I think the old bearing and new bearing are only touching by their outer races, so the new one will not get damaged.
As ChrisFix would say, “use some soapy wooder”
(pulls out a spray bottle with "soapy wooder" written on it)
I did the exact same mistake, but with the front fork bearings on a bicycle. Turns out the spacer below the handlebars are kinda important if you enjoy the activity of not having a horrible bike crash.
I love the sound the hydraulic presses make when they retract, they sound happy to have done all that heavy pressing.
*“I did a good job smashing that bearing in, didn’t I?! Fweeeeeeee!”*
Will you buy the caravan made for the trabant and do a road trip with it one day?
Hat tip to the person who chose the Patreon codename AARGH! No hat tip to the designer of that goofy bearing retention system.
What I have learned today is that you would do a mean Swedish Chef impersonation
All he needs to do is start throwing things randomly around.
Id say if you didnt want to disassemble everything to put the brake shield back on, maybe can cut a slit between the two bolt holes and contort the shield back on and over. Then when you bolt it back up the bolts will clamp down and hold the shield back and wont worry about that split in it.
I actually winced when Robert stuck his finger in the snap ring before he got it all the way off. Been there, done that and nearly regretted it. I freaking hate snap rings!
Some possible causes of "rumbling/vibrating on acceleration" are
damaged inner CV joint (good odds, especially if you have either a cheap joint or drove the ripped boot joint for long enough to let most of the grease out, which appears the case. Wear has happened).
bad engine/motor mounts (I had terrible acceleration, shifting, and idle with bad engine mounts. No clue how it would affect an electric via CVT car though)
unbalanced tires (super unlikely as you mentioned "on acceleration". that issue tends to manifest at 30+ mph)
my man! never press a bearing in using the inner race! always press the outer race in using the outer race! you will destroy the bearings if you dont. anyways, enjoying your content!
- City Bus Mechanic
It's only so he can practice replacing them again (and reinstall the brake shield)
Yes, that was hard to watch!
He was pressing it in with the old bearing.
0.5-mile wheel bearing replacement interval is kinda ridiculous ngl
Going to need a couple bearings to get around the block. Damn Chinese cars why must they be so reliable. I had to basically keep a trunk full of bearings for my Mercedes.
Pressing the new bearings in using the inner race? 😳
I got confused too at that moment. I was thinking really hard where the inner fit to.
You're gonna want that disc brake shield sooner than later on Missouri's roads, sir.
Always wear your SAFETY GLASSES when working with any tool.
The preload on tapered bearings should be very little, in every case of wheel hub use such as trailers that I’ve ever seen, there should actually be a “perceived” feel of free play when rocking the tire. Not a huge clunking like when you started, but just a little movement that can be felt when rocking the tire. Over tight tapered bearings will burn up and 150 pounds it too much. Ball bearings can take pressure from all sides and are great for front wheel bearings where an axle goes through the hub and the nut needs to be torqued to 150, most modern front drive vehicles use a pair of roller bearings in one wide housing. I’d change those to sealed ball bearings that fit inside the knuckle and through the hub.
I was gonna say "someone forgot the dust shield," then you noticed. I have missed them a bunch and boy does it suck.😂
@@Ideal1980 I promise you, in the service manuals, it is a dust shield.
Great video as always! ❤️
Join us fans on the Aging Wheels DunnPosting Facebook fan group, everyone! 😀
How does it feel to know that you are the only coda mechanic in the entire world?
You make it look so easy. (The lift helps I'm sure)
I sometimes wonder if having a lift is worth it, and then I think about what jobs like this would be like without a lift
@@agingwheels no kidding! Just rotating the tires is a real job without a lift. Love your stuff man! Oh! How about a chicken update soon? :^)
I wish samcrac reads this.
@@bebereyes5514 His chickens won't let him have a lift.
@@agingwheels Truth. I'm dealing with an oil pan removal right now, and a lift would be *amazing*, but all I have are some ramps in the driveway.
"I have become very proficient at replacing wheel bearings!" >very next shot shows him pressing the bearing in via the inner race<
Me: Keep practicing!
I forgot my brake shield once... cut off saw fixed that problem.
That is what I would do since it is just a “shield”.
I feel your pain with the brake shield. But I have a helpful tip: You shouldn't really press on the inner race of a press-fit bearing if the outer race is what seats. You're also pressing the bearings into the races if you do that, you should only press on the outer. Also I fitted my engine coolant pump today. Twice. Had to take it back off again as there was no way to refit one of the hose clamps unless it was already on the hose, waiting to be moved up and secured, I had it waiting on the pipe, expecting to move it down - and a bloody bastard bolt ended up in the way. So yeah, me too!
I once sent off a really old Mazda 323, with my first-time wheel bearing replacement. The only problem was the spacer/shim that I hadn’t seen, lying on our workbench... the nice lady who owned the vehicle, had an awesome experience on the motorway - at speed!
5:28 the immense effort was probably worth it just for the sounds
Going to do a video on that metal lathe in the background?
If this video came out yesterday I might've remembered my dust shield when I changed my bearing.
Fair warning those stainless steel zip ties do not apply enough clumping Force and you need the actual crimp on clamps I have done this many a Time also making sure the CV joints have plenty of Grease will help with any noise
Customer States:
"Vehicle sounds like the end of a "Rick and Morty" story arc when driving..."
Next time you replace the bearings use a bearing puller/installer kit like Astro Pneumatic 78825. Pressing the bearing into the knuckle by putting pressure only on the outer race is really, really good for longevity.
or just a bit of 1/4inch plate the same size as the outer race... don't need to get fancy with it
Advice from a professional 3/4-asser; cut the shield in half, shove it in, weld it to itself in place. Spray with off-black flat paint.
Some come in two pieces, use one of the spares car to create a two piece one.
Damn I love that editing on the removal of the hub. Just enough to show everything that happened, including the goof-ups (we all make 'em), and the length is perfect so as to not feel drawn out. Such a treat!
What a crappy front end design. Nothing wrong with tapered roller bearigns in this application though, as long as the setup is designed properly. What my '85 F150 uses and the bearings last decades in there.
This might be an interesting fact for someone.
If you remove the brake shield on a SAAB 9000 you'll get the same problem with loose bearings. It took me a while (three bearing replacements and a ton of forum searching) to realise why it was eating wheel bearings for breakfast, I thought maybe it had something to do with wheel offset, size, tire width, ride height, amount of horsepower/torque output since it's modified and stage 3 tuned, but nope! It was the shield that acts as a spacer! And the shields rust pretty badly over time so when you change wheel bearing you have to buy new shield as well, at least if it's high milage or in an area with salted roads.
The 9000 uses shielded angular contact hub bearings if you're wondering.
I could only find two other people online talking about it and I've had several 9000s myself (thought I knew them inside and out) and gone to auto mechanics school and still had no idea... So it might have something to do with bearings and cv joints from different manufacturers varying just a fraction from the original design which means you'll get tiny bit of play without the shield, but buying original isn't really an option for an old car from a brand that went bankrupt and if you get hold of proper OEM parts they're often way too expensive anyways!
Didnt you get a 3d printer? I wonder if you can print replacement gears for the rear windows. Interesting video for sure, what use is the brake shield that you left out? What impact over time would not having that in there cause?
I changed my rear bearings and 2km later one of them welded itself together. Drove home 7km with one bearing spinning inside the brake drum.
So coda's wheels could just fall off over time?... So c.o.d.a. actually stands for "could of died again"
I wonder what the thought process was for Coda to use unshielded bearings in the first place. Anyway looks like you got the wheel bearing replacement process down to a science.
When you get to those rear windows Honda shin etsu silicone grease is the best stuff to lubricate the window tracks. Found out about it from the Miata forums but have been using it forever on all my cars. It lasts far longer than anything else and hardly attracts any dirt. Way better than any other car manufacturers factory grease and I've never had to re-grease a window I did with it - even 15 years later.
It may use some CV shaft from some early 2000s toyota or other japanese brand, and even generic toyota spare would be much better than original part
how does the bearing get greased? I saw nothing about packing the bearings. If the bearings don't have grease they will fail in no time flat.
Hey Roberts. I am worried about your two post lift because @0:25 it seemed to drop down a little and I am no expert, but I assume this i s not normal.
Stay safe!
Dude. Just cut the disc brake shield with a Dremel so you can put it over the wheel hub one side at a time, and bolt it into place.
That hydraulic gear puller was sweet! I want one
nice job bro. Great video. What the hell is a coda?
C'mon, people. It's spelt brake, not break.
I wonder what life would be like if Tesla was the one who went bankrupt and Coda went on to become the multimillion dollar company
We are waiting for a new video, we need you man. Im worried, seeing you less and less. Much Love!
Pro tip: Cut a small slit in the shield, and you can put it back on without pulling the bearing apart.
When pushing bearings into a hub, you push on the outer side or your wheel bearings will fail quite soon.
When you took the CV joint apart to replace the boot, did you put the bearing assembly back on so that it is in phase with the one at the other end of the shaft ? Unless that assembly has a blind spline it is very easy to put that unit back together out of phase which can cause your rumble feel on acceleration.
The joint at the other end is completely different from the inner joint, there is no "phasing" like with u joints
@@lustfulvengance no problem just saying that some of the CV style joints have three bearings/ balls inside and if the other end is similar they can be installed out of phase
you set your bearings right, this time.
Saw a Coda in person for the first time yesterday!!
I actually cringed when i saw that you pressed the bearings in by pushing on the inner ring...
Video idea: Going over all of your ryobi tools and saying what ones are garbage and what ones are worth it.
Judging from your shop speak during the assembly of the CV Boot we may have another AvE in the making
I actually saw someone driving a Coda EV in Boulder Colorado, and I thought of this channel immediately lol
I thoroughly enjoy the fact that DankPods watches aging wheels.
You know... you could notch out that missing shield plate so it slips right in there. The key of course would be not to remove any part of the shield directly related to fastening it in place.
0:48 Is Robert cheating on Ryobi with Milwaukee? *Gasp*
Excellent and highly entertaining as ever.
Just a thought: won't the aluminium deform over time allowing the bearing slop to join the party again?
Holy crap you got a ryobi zero turn mower. I hope you review it!!!!
are the motor mounts good you could get a nasty noise on acceleration from that
The DANK PODS in the patreon list is that DANK PODS???
Min 11:36
Without bearing seals...you'll be changing them bearings as often as your oil...
Snap rings prove the existence of an angry and vengeful god
I suspect you already thought of this, but can you just cut the disk brake shield in half, install it, and then tack it back together with the welder?
Would love to see a compact wood bed Coda pickup conversion. Channel crossover idea?!
Key to repairing a Coda? Own three of them.
Why would you cut the original boot clamps off? They are designed to be removed. I don’t know man, I’ve just simply removed mine, New boot, fresh grease and reused them
Can't see the large one clearly, but the small one is an Oetiker clamp, which is secured by crimping the ear and is not reusable.
@@awd42 fully reusable. You just need a special tool for removal and recrimping, or to take your time with various pliers
Ruining bearings in a mile, that sounds like me repairing my old Saturn.
Whatever you do it’s still a Saturn.
"I didn't show it on camera, but I did properly torque down the axel nut in the middle to 150 pound feet of torque. I had no idea what to torque it to, so I just picked a number. And I picked that number, because that's as high as my torque wrench would go." OMG! LMFAO!
ah nothin like an Aging Wheels video to go with your morning coffee, other drinks are available
Piss poor skills, no one use these vids as a how to
I just torqued it to 150 bc thats as high as my torque wrench would go. Same but since everyone said it needed 180 ft lbs on my car I went 40 degrees passed 150 and broke my torque wrench...
maybe you can slot the disk brake dust cover and slide it over?
Why? Part of it, It sat for a long time, and where you didn't add in the missing part it fucked the new ones right quick. Sitting is REALLY BAD on cars and can even screw with replacement parts if they're not done well or if other parts damaged by sitting aren't replaced, especially in the case of bearings and whatnot where if one part is broken it'll mess with everything else in the assembly. The bad CV axles could've had something to do with the bearings failing, too, if they had lost enough lubricant.
Interesting to see how everything goes together on these. They look cheaper than cheap. Like the bad kind of third party.
Man I'm so glad I'm not the only one that struggles with those bloody drive shaft clips! VW use things that look like circlips but they don't have the holes in them.
Wait til the kingpin goes on your Robin... makes it like an out of control shopping trolley castor lol And its a crappy job to fix too :( I had the joys of dealing with Morris Marina door internals today, the rod from interior handle popped off the arm in the lock so gave the whole door a service, greased up the window mechanism, oiled the door hinges and locks, put bigger self tappers to hold the door card on and permanently converted my Robin into a van removing the ultra rare 65 rear Connolly leather seats in the striking red piped 2 tone grey thick leather.