Thanks for watching! Feel free to leave a comment or question that you may have about Log Homes. Thanks again for watching and please Subscribe to this channel!
What I've done is fill the cracks and then smooth them out with a putty knife and then sand the caulk. Get a sandable caulk I did a complete renovation on mine. I sanded the log smooth and then caulked all my checks smooth out the caulk as I went and went over it with 120 grit sandpaper after letting the caulk cure for a week
Just bought a log cabin in Lawrenceburg, KY, that has about 15 years of TLC to catch up on for the exterior. Needs attention to all kinds of checks, some rotted areas of logs on the back, a bay window that has a rotted base, replacing four deck supports, and the framing around the French doors in the basement have fallen victim to some type of wood-boring insect... Just came across your channel and it's just what I needed to figure out how to teach myself some of the basics of log home maintenance. Gonna try and knock out whatever I can by myself, but if/when the time comes that I need to bring in a professional - make sure your crew at On Track Repairs & Renos keeps their bags packed!
Awesome! Good luck on the projects Brad. Check out the videos in the Log Cabin playlist. Thanks again for watching and please Subscribe! Again, good luck on your projects, you got this!🍀
Very informative video. I have a cedar log home and want to fill checks but I'm concerned about color matching to the existing stain as I don't intend to stain or paint after just fill checks... that's it. When these caulk products dry and I've found a caulk that is as close to the stain I have does the stain dry darker in color or the same as when it's wet. What brands of backer rod do you recommend? Thank you. Gilda
I have 2 clients that have log cabins that have several areas of checking, it seems pretty labor intensive for the foam insert, so how would you price addressing the checking before re staining the log cabin? I advised most likely fixing checking would be time and materials on top of the cost to restain the cabin.
In the wide and deep checks (cracks). Stuff Backer Rod into the check and use log caulk to fill the check. If checks are larger than 1/2, I would use chinking caulk. Good luck, thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Hello, I am looking at a log home in NE Georgia and while we were touring the home we noticed light coming from the outside in the corning of the living room. This was a vertical gap and not horizontal. Is this normal/fixable?
Yes, the logs will expand and contract with the weather, that is why using the right Log Caulk is a must. Obviously I would inspect the home before you purchase, looking for rought or bad logs. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Just found your channel. Great info. Quick question. We have 6x8 D logs. Our manufacturer said to only caulk the tops of the d log checks and leave the bottom checks open so if any water gets in it will not be trapped. Thoughts.
Thanks for watching. You want to keep water out all together. If water runs in the middle of the log, the log will act like a sponge and soak up most of the water before any runs out. I've never heard that advice and would not advise it. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe.
Question.. I’m currently under contract to buy a log home in WV. During the home inspection it was noted the the exterior and interior need some caulking repair. The current owners are saying the interior on the logs do not require caulking. Can you please confirm? Thank you 🙏🏻
Yes and no. It's typical to see the inside logs not caulked. However, it is extremely beneficial to have them caulked. Especially the corners, large gaps between the logs and butt joints. Not so much for the inside checks in the logs. The inside caulking helps keep bugs out and is more energy efficient. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Any tips on filling in carpenter bee holes? Do I need to fill in the entire length of the tunnel with caulk, or just the entry (after ensuring the bees are gone, of course)? Thanks for the videos!
I just fill the holes full of caulk but the bees have to be gone because they will and can pull the caulk back out😲😁. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
My suggestion would actually be to buy wood working "plug cutters," drill out the bee holes and glue a plug in place, saw the plug off with a flush-cut saw, and then refinish. The bee holes are about 3/8" in diameter, so a 1/2" or 5/8" plug should do it.
I barely have gaps in between my logs, almost so small I can barely fit a backer in between the logs. I was wondering if in cases like this, would just adding energy seal be the right way to go about it? Thanks
the smallest backer rod I've seen is 1/4 inch. If I can stuff it in a gap, I do. If not, I don't. On upward facing checks that won't fit backer rod, I fill with caulk. On the downward facing ones, I just try to get my top coat in there deep.
@@TheSawDustDude Great tip on the tape. I've never done that but it looks like it would help a lot on rough logs. On smooth ones I put the rod then the caulk. I smoosh it in then squirt a little rubbing alcohol mixed with water on top and scrape over the check with a bondo scraper. It's a bendable soft plastic putty scraper and it takes the excess off and leaves the caulk in the crack. Some caulk gets wasted but the less time I am up on a ladder with a bunch of tools, the better. Also, don't forget to run your 5 in 1 tool or some kind of tiny round brush in the check first to clean it out. Otherwise the caulk sticks to the dirt and pollen and not the wood. Log Builder is another good caulk, similar to Big Stretch. I've had good luck with both and I've gone through 20 tubes this summer alone. Be sure to let the caulk dry for MANY days before you put oil based top coat. The oils and stain can soak into the log and prevent the caulk from binding if it isn't fully set, and it takes a long time to cure inside the check even though the outer surface feels dry.
Not familiar with that brand. I would certainly give them a call. Also, see how their reviews are online too. Good luck with your project. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Use Perma Chink caulk or Big Stretch caulk. Both are great caulk just use a color that is close to the color of your stain. Caulk before you stain. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
I sent you a msg on your other video. I sent my personal number maybe you will get in touch so i can have a little guidance in taking a niche in just concentrating refinishing log cabins in my area since there isn't anyone around who does there are a few companies that build them but no one to call to repair and upkeep. One thing I need to ask is it better to seal after staining or before? What do you think is best
I use backer rod then caulk with log builder then I either use a sponge brush or sponge wet and clean it but my logs are sanded smooth. Also anything permachink is garbage at least in my experience in wyoming!!!!
The only time I tape is when it is brand new logs. Make sure you get off all excess stain that is outside of the check. If the logs are already stained caulk, then with a damp rag wipe off excess caulk. Hopefully this is what you want to know. Good luck with the project. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Kay, you can you the principles you learn in my life home videos but you are right-Older log homes are very unique in how you care for them. Good luck on your projects 🍀🍺. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe!
Thanks for watching! Feel free to leave a comment or question that you may have about Log Homes. Thanks again for watching and please Subscribe to this channel!
Getting ready to refinish my home for the 1st time. One big learning curve.....Im starting to worry about time. Thanks for all the info.
Good luck on your project. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
What I've done is fill the cracks and then smooth them out with a putty knife and then sand the caulk. Get a sandable caulk I did a complete renovation on mine. I sanded the log smooth and then caulked all my checks smooth out the caulk as I went and went over it with 120 grit sandpaper after letting the caulk cure for a week
Just bought a log cabin in Lawrenceburg, KY, that has about 15 years of TLC to catch up on for the exterior. Needs attention to all kinds of checks, some rotted areas of logs on the back, a bay window that has a rotted base, replacing four deck supports, and the framing around the French doors in the basement have fallen victim to some type of wood-boring insect... Just came across your channel and it's just what I needed to figure out how to teach myself some of the basics of log home maintenance. Gonna try and knock out whatever I can by myself, but if/when the time comes that I need to bring in a professional - make sure your crew at On Track Repairs & Renos keeps their bags packed!
Awesome! Good luck on the projects Brad. Check out the videos in the Log Cabin playlist. Thanks again for watching and please Subscribe! Again, good luck on your projects, you got this!🍀
For this style of logs (flat logs), do you have to caulk between the logs? (Horizontal). Thank you and great video.
Very informative video. I have a cedar log home and want to fill checks but I'm concerned about color matching to the existing stain as I don't intend to stain or paint after just fill checks... that's it. When these caulk products dry and I've found a caulk that is as close to the stain I have does the stain dry darker in color or the same as when it's wet. What brands of backer rod do you recommend? Thank you. Gilda
I have 2 clients that have log cabins that have several areas of checking, it seems pretty labor intensive for the foam insert, so how would you price addressing the checking before re staining the log cabin?
I advised most likely fixing checking would be time and materials on top of the cost to restain the cabin.
what do you fill in your logs that have a really deep and wide crack?
In the wide and deep checks (cracks). Stuff Backer Rod into the check and use log caulk to fill the check. If checks are larger than 1/2, I would use chinking caulk. Good luck, thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Hello, I am looking at a log home in NE Georgia and while we were touring the home we noticed light coming from the outside in the corning of the living room. This was a vertical gap and not horizontal. Is this normal/fixable?
Yes, the logs will expand and contract with the weather, that is why using the right Log Caulk is a must. Obviously I would inspect the home before you purchase, looking for rought or bad logs. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Hey~ love the videos! Are you using 1/4 inch backer rod?
Yes, 1/4 backer rod. Checks that are 1/8 or less, caulk may or may not stay in. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe
Just found your channel. Great info. Quick question. We have 6x8 D logs. Our manufacturer said to only caulk the tops of the d log checks and leave the bottom checks open so if any water gets in it will not be trapped. Thoughts.
Thanks for watching. You want to keep water out all together. If water runs in the middle of the log, the log will act like a sponge and soak up most of the water before any runs out. I've never heard that advice and would not advise it. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe.
Question.. I’m currently under contract to buy a log home in WV. During the home inspection it was noted the the exterior and interior need some caulking repair. The current owners are saying the interior on the logs do not require caulking. Can you please confirm? Thank you 🙏🏻
Yes and no. It's typical to see the inside logs not caulked. However, it is extremely beneficial to have them caulked. Especially the corners, large gaps between the logs and butt joints. Not so much for the inside checks in the logs. The inside caulking helps keep bugs out and is more energy efficient. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Any tips on filling in carpenter bee holes? Do I need to fill in the entire length of the tunnel with caulk, or just the entry (after ensuring the bees are gone, of course)? Thanks for the videos!
I just fill the holes full of caulk but the bees have to be gone because they will and can pull the caulk back out😲😁. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
My suggestion would actually be to buy wood working "plug cutters," drill out the bee holes and glue a plug in place, saw the plug off with a flush-cut saw, and then refinish. The bee holes are about 3/8" in diameter, so a 1/2" or 5/8" plug should do it.
Super helpful. Thanks!
Awesome, good luck on your project 🍀🍺. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 👍
I barely have gaps in between my logs, almost so small I can barely fit a backer in between the logs. I was wondering if in cases like this, would just adding energy seal be the right way to go about it? Thanks
Sounds like you are on the right track. Stuff with Backer rod if possible, then caulk. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
the smallest backer rod I've seen is 1/4 inch. If I can stuff it in a gap, I do. If not, I don't. On upward facing checks that won't fit backer rod, I fill with caulk. On the downward facing ones, I just try to get my top coat in there deep.
@@TheSawDustDude
Great tip on the tape. I've never done that but it looks like it would help a lot on rough logs.
On smooth ones I put the rod then the caulk. I smoosh it in then squirt a little rubbing alcohol mixed with water on top and scrape over the check with a bondo scraper. It's a bendable soft plastic putty scraper and it takes the excess off and leaves the caulk in the crack. Some caulk gets wasted but the less time I am up on a ladder with a bunch of tools, the better.
Also, don't forget to run your 5 in 1 tool or some kind of tiny round brush in the check first to clean it out. Otherwise the caulk sticks to the dirt and pollen and not the wood.
Log Builder is another good caulk, similar to Big Stretch.
I've had good luck with both and I've gone through 20 tubes this summer alone.
Be sure to let the caulk dry for MANY days before you put oil based top coat.
The oils and stain can soak into the log and prevent the caulk from binding if it isn't fully set, and it takes a long time to cure inside the check even though the outer surface feels dry.
How about log builder for caulking? They have a wood tone color I am looking to purchase. Would that brand also accept the stain?
Not familiar with that brand. I would certainly give them a call. Also, see how their reviews are online too. Good luck with your project. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
I use twp stain on all my buildings at home. It’s an oil base stain. Which caulk should I use?
Use Perma Chink caulk or Big Stretch caulk. Both are great caulk just use a color that is close to the color of your stain. Caulk before you stain. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
What kind of cocking did you use in this video?
I use one of two products, Energy Seal from Perma Chink or Big Stretch caulk. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Thanks helped alot
Good luck on your project. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Is the Backer rod able to compress?
Dan it's a closed cell foam rod, it will compress into small cracks but will not soak up water. 🍺
@@TheSawDustDude ordered it 3/4 inch Thanks!
I sent you a msg on your other video. I sent my personal number maybe you will get in touch so i can have a little guidance in taking a niche in just concentrating refinishing log cabins in my area since there isn't anyone around who does there are a few companies that build them but no one to call to repair and upkeep. One thing I need to ask is it better to seal after staining or before? What do you think is best
I use backer rod then caulk with log builder then I either use a sponge brush or sponge wet and clean it but my logs are sanded smooth. Also anything permachink is garbage at least in my experience in wyoming!!!!
Thanks for sharing 👍
Tha ks so much
Do all caulking then stain no need for tape
The only time I tape is when it is brand new logs. Make sure you get off all excess stain that is outside of the check. If the logs are already stained caulk, then with a damp rag wipe off excess caulk. Hopefully this is what you want to know. Good luck with the project. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe 🍀🍺
Very helpful but I can't possible use this method on my 1800's log cabins. Wow
Kay, you can you the principles you learn in my life home videos but you are right-Older log homes are very unique in how you care for them. Good luck on your projects 🍀🍺. Thanks for watching and please Subscribe!
big stretch
Yes, it's a great Log Home Caulk! Thanks for watching and please Subscribe!
The taping method looks too time consuming a wet T shirt would be satisfactory for me.