Thanks for watching and for al the comments! Sorry to not respond tonight. Busy watching the Avs game and celebrating their Stanley Cup win! Back to work, life, hot rods, and RUclips tomorrow. Go Avs!
Agree with ya. Go Avs. Great game. Congrats Avs. So great to see Kadri finally succeed. This was a great video with a lot of info. Look forward to more on the Montana Garage '57. Yes I think it needs to be renamed.....it's been almost a year after all. Be safe and stay well.
Glad to see you've been able to enjoy this car for a while... Working in them is fun, but you need that win as a reward. Looks like you're finally on that side of it.
Geeze Brad, I probably will need to do this later, but thank you for the tutorial, much needed on my end, sorry you didn't make it to the races too, Aloha brother
Have you checked the resistance between the sender body and the car body to see if it is grounded well? You can also put your ohmmeter from ground to the sender terminal to check if the sender is open circuit
I did not check resistance from sender body to car body, so I will do that. Thanks! I did do sender terminal to ground, and it is not open, but gives me an ohm reading. That is why it seems weird to me that the sender is bad? I'll pull it out once I run the fuel down a bit and investigate further. Thanks for the help!
Good to see you wrenching on the DD Speed Shop '57 again. Dan has a tendency to band-aid things a bit when pressed for time. So you may find a few other gremlins hiding in there. 😉
Yes he does. Informed that fuel line on bottom of frame was not a good place, (others agreed) but he blew me off. I stop falling him then. Hope you work out the bugs. Like why the high beam indicator light goes on with the key. Also gave this info to him that an early sixties ing switch that fits the dash that uses the right lock cyl so looks like it should be there with AUX. Would be a good touch. My dayley driver is 57 sportcoupe. No not stock :-)
Thanks Jim. I think we all band-aid things at times. I know I do, and it's a '57 Chevy that sat for a while, so there will be gremlins. I'll sort 'em out as time and funds allow. I appreciate you watching!
Thanks Verne. Yep, those items you mentioned need addressed. Hopefully I'll get to 'em one day., but until that day I'll still enjoy it! I appreciate you watching!
@@MontanaGarage I know what you mean about funds, had my sean 1983 still not done. hee hee but close needs paint again and I dislike sanding so maybe someday.. Yes like you I enjoy driving it.
I went though two new ones just to get it working on the wagon biggest tip hook it up before you install it into your gas tank just use the Alligator clip wire to ground it
Thanks David. That is part of what kinda baffles me. I did test it when I had it out of the car and it seemed to work. Hmmm. I'll pull it again once I run a bit more fuel outta there, Keep Mobbin!
Some great troubleshooting tips there. The temp gauge on my ‘57 hasn’t worked since I got the car. I tested the sender, seemed to be fine. I got a spare gauge cluster (my speedo was bad too, would only give me a ballpark speed between 20 and 50 and was completely useless above or below that range), and I tested the temp gauge on that one and it was working, so I did the swap. Speedo works great now but still no joy on the temp gauge. Went ahead and replaced the sender, still nothing, so it’s gotta be a wiring issue. For now I just keep an infrared temperature gun in the glove box. She doesn’t really run hot anyway, but it’s nice to be able to check it every now and then.
You guys might try adding a ground wire , under one of the gauge mounting screws to under the nut on the mounting stud that have nuts on then holding in the dash. Good for the lights too.
I had a stock 55 gas gauge in my car working just till a few years back. I replaced the original sender first.The long copper band on the sender was cracked in two making intermittent readings. Replaced the sender & then the original gauge went after that within a short time after figures. Thanks to a lady friend she bought me a new gauge as a present and it work again .Only thing is some repro gauges are pegged to the right with the key off. It reads correct when key is on. You can get both kinds according to Chris from IronHead Garage. I would of preferred the off position to the left but I didnt know at the time .Thinking of changing over to one..So if you ever buy a gauge keep that in mind ..Glenn
GEEEEE u checked every thing for sure, if Google says probably the sender yep as u said u going to try. me and Google has become real good friends help me on some crazy stuff lol. Keep it going bud.
I had the same thing happen when my 57 sat I had a low battery even with a new alternator. Turns out the stock amp alt was just not enough to fully charge the battery. Upgraded to a 100 amp and have not had any battery problems since. Just my sharing my issue for possibl3 solution.
Thanks for the info. I just put a 100 amp alternator on it last fall and it seems to be charging good so I think in my case it is just an old, weak battery. So far it's still hanging in there though...
Mine is a 67 G10 van. # of years ago I changed the send unit and the gage would swing when driving. Not so bad now but gage is pegged when full and runs dry at 1/3 tank. Sound like I need a new send unit in your opinion. .? Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply. I would agree sending unit OR something in the wiring between sender and gauge. If it goes to full when given power, than the gauge itself should be working. Good luck!
The guy Dan bought the car from was bracket racing it so that welded rear panel in trunk is his blacksmith work not Dan's. Good to see the car driving again.AL B.
When you order a sending unit, buy a new set of screws and a CORK gasket. The sender will come with a rubber gasket. They aren't worth a crap. A few people have claimed they seal but most didn't. The screws must have the copper sealing washers. H&H has everything you need. Probably cheaper too. You do have all three grounds on the car right? Body, chassis, and engine? I'm excited to see your dads car.
Thanks man. I'll check out H&H, as I've never purchased from them before. Yep, I have good grounds, as that was part of the FiTech problem chasing last summer. I hope to have some content of my Dad's car soon.
That's one of my pet peeves. Why do they put a rubber gasket in the kit when they know good and well they are prone to leak? A fuel leak in a enclosed space like a attached garage is a recipe for disaster!
Did you try moving the float arm in the tank? It's like its upside down.. reading full like that... Moving the float arm should move the gas guage.. Unless its stuck or bad..
I never did get that fuel gage working right. I believe the sender wasn't working right, even though I was getting an ohm reading. I never got around to changing it to test my theory. Someone else's problem now... Thanks for watching!
Hi Brad gauge in dash is good. If you are certain that the tank cender unit is grounded to the body with an extra wire then the tank unit has failed again. Get a new tank unit.
I have not done resistance from sender body to car body, so I'll check that out. Thanks! I did do ground to sender wire, and it is not open, but gives me an ohm reading. This is why it kinda doesn't make sense to me that the sender is bad. I'm gonna pull it out when I run the fuel down a bit and investigate further.
@@MontanaGarage on my charger it the fuel gauge clicks on and off. Give a check engine so hard to sell the car. Think it’s a crack in the circuit board dash solder. Think I fixed that. Maybe wire got pinched. Same thing send 5 to rank what comes back tell the level. 5 full 0 empty
You say you replaced the sending unit, remember the 57 uses a 0-30 ohm, ( watch a touch more of video and yes you got the 0-30 ;-) great) if a difference range of ohm could give the false reading. The ground wire under one of the mounting screws to frame ground should bypass any of the sealing stuff you used.
Try to drive a VW Beetle in a Minnesota winter! You need three hands, steer, shift, scrape, repeat... You know the defrost is not doing anything, if you're really skilled and learn to hold the scraper in your teeth!
Come on guys ! Not rocket science one wire - resistor- grd. Take one out of other tank and hook up to gauge move float and see how it works. Float makes contact with resistor.
Thanks John. I'll check out the vid. I did test this one last summer when I had it out, and it seemed to work. I'll pull it gain when i get rid of some of the fuel.
I am not sure that teaching you how is going to help as your efforts are jumpy at best... the wire leading to the gauge at the back of the car... haven't you got another sender in a tank known to be good? A known sending unit can be held in hand, and with all wires hooked to it, and the sender grounded properly as in a wire jumper or what ever, lift the arm up and down, hold it still as this is not a really quick response system... let the gauge catch up as in like a half tank spot, even if its laying on the floor of the shop, if the wires are hooked proper, it should read a half tank. Of course if you can get this shit tank to work an not have to spend money on it, wait till the tank fails pouring fuel on the hot exhaust and burns the car to the ground.... problem fixed cause of being cheap... a half ass job gives half ass results every time and thats a guarantee that never changes. Now I remember why I quit watching as you are always thinking of a cheaper way to get by just like the previous owner
Thanks for trying to teach me, but I'll probably never learn with my jumpy half ass efforts. If I had a sender known to be good, I'd be using it, don't you think? Even I am smart enough for that. I guess the only right way to fix things is buy new things? I'll try and remember that next time. So far, the car hasn't burned to the ground. Maybe tomorrow? I'll keep you posted. Perhaps you'll remember to quit watching again? Or, even better, maybe continue watching, but try and be a bit less negative, and we can all learn together. Perfect.
Thanks for watching and for al the comments! Sorry to not respond tonight. Busy watching the Avs game and celebrating their Stanley Cup win! Back to work, life, hot rods, and RUclips tomorrow. Go Avs!
Well I think you are on the right track. Keep up the good work 👏. Wiring is always fun and frustrating. Have a great evening 👍🏻
Thank you. I'm not sure about fun, but frustrating for sure...
Agree with ya. Go Avs. Great game. Congrats Avs. So great to see Kadri finally succeed.
This was a great video with a lot of info. Look forward to more on the Montana Garage '57. Yes I think it needs to be renamed.....it's been almost a year after all. Be safe and stay well.
Thanks Brian. Sooo cool to see the Avs pull it off. They were making me nervous.
Glad to see you've been able to enjoy this car for a while... Working in them is fun, but you need that win as a reward. Looks like you're finally on that side of it.
Yes sir. Been driving here a ton and it's super fun to cruise in this old thing. Thanks for watching the channel!
Where is located the fuel gauge ground cable ? Thanks
You can just run a ground from one of the sending unit screws to your frame or other suitable area. Thanks for watching!
great troubleshooting content. someone out there in youtube land will really appreciate this video.
Thanks Randy. I hope it helps someone.
Geeze Brad, I probably will need to do this later, but thank you for the tutorial, much needed on my end, sorry you didn't make it to the races too, Aloha brother
Thanks man. Maybe next year for the races. I appreciate you watching.
Love the spray foam and pink panther insulation. Every classic should be built like that. Dang
Haha I don't know if every classic should be built like that, but plenty of them seem to be! Thanks for watching.
Have you checked the resistance between the sender body and the car body to see if it is grounded well? You can also put your ohmmeter from ground to the sender terminal to check if the sender is open circuit
I did not check resistance from sender body to car body, so I will do that. Thanks! I did do sender terminal to ground, and it is not open, but gives me an ohm reading. That is why it seems weird to me that the sender is bad? I'll pull it out once I run the fuel down a bit and investigate further. Thanks for the help!
Good to see you wrenching on the DD Speed Shop '57 again. Dan has a tendency to band-aid things a bit when pressed for time. So you may find a few other gremlins hiding in there. 😉
Yes he does. Informed that fuel line on bottom of frame was not a good place, (others agreed) but he blew me off. I stop falling him then. Hope you work out the bugs. Like why the high beam indicator light goes on with the key. Also gave this info to him that an early sixties ing switch that fits the dash that uses the right lock cyl so looks like it should be there with AUX. Would be a good touch. My dayley driver is 57 sportcoupe. No not stock :-)
Thanks Jim. I think we all band-aid things at times. I know I do, and it's a '57 Chevy that sat for a while, so there will be gremlins. I'll sort 'em out as time and funds allow. I appreciate you watching!
Thanks Verne. Yep, those items you mentioned need addressed. Hopefully I'll get to 'em one day., but until that day I'll still enjoy it! I appreciate you watching!
@@MontanaGarage I know what you mean about funds, had my sean 1983 still not done. hee hee but close needs paint again and I dislike sanding so maybe someday.. Yes like you I enjoy driving it.
@@vernebrown4441 Nice. Drive the wheels off of it!
I went though two new ones just to get it working on the wagon biggest tip hook it up before you install it into your gas tank just use the Alligator clip wire to ground it
Thanks David. That is part of what kinda baffles me. I did test it when I had it out of the car and it seemed to work. Hmmm. I'll pull it again once I run a bit more fuel outta there, Keep Mobbin!
Your Avalanche have won the Stanley Cup!
Hell yeah they did. They were making me a bit nervous, but they pulled it off. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks for sharing Sounds like a lot of fun
Thank you. It is a lot of fun, at least most times....
Gotta be the sender. Good luck 🤞
I think so too, Tim. Guess I'll find out soon enough. Thanks for watching.
Maybe a tank too. Better than doing it twice when you have so much to do. Keep all the good work up.
Probably a solid idea...
Great video Brad. I hate doing electrical stuff myself. I hope it works when you get the sending unit. Keep up the good work Buddy
Thank you Mike. I hope it works too!
Good video
Thanks for the kind word Robert. Much appreciated! Tell a friend and help us grow...
Some great troubleshooting tips there. The temp gauge on my ‘57 hasn’t worked since I got the car. I tested the sender, seemed to be fine. I got a spare gauge cluster (my speedo was bad too, would only give me a ballpark speed between 20 and 50 and was completely useless above or below that range), and I tested the temp gauge on that one and it was working, so I did the swap. Speedo works great now but still no joy on the temp gauge. Went ahead and replaced the sender, still nothing, so it’s gotta be a wiring issue. For now I just keep an infrared temperature gun in the glove box. She doesn’t really run hot anyway, but it’s nice to be able to check it every now and then.
Dang gauges and wiring! Sounds like you have come up with a good work around since it doesn't work. Thanks for watching and Keep Mobbin!
You guys might try adding a ground wire , under one of the gauge mounting screws to under the nut on the mounting stud that have nuts on then holding in the dash. Good for the lights too.
I had a stock 55 gas gauge in my car working just till a few years back. I replaced the original sender first.The long copper band on the sender was cracked in two making intermittent readings. Replaced the sender & then the original gauge went after that within a short time after figures. Thanks to a lady friend she bought me a new gauge as a present and it work again .Only thing is some repro gauges are pegged to the right with the key off. It reads correct when key is on. You can get both kinds according to Chris from IronHead Garage. I would of preferred the off position to the left but I didnt know at the time .Thinking of changing over to one..So if you ever buy a gauge keep that in mind ..Glenn
Thanks for the info Glenn. Thanks for watching!
Great video 👍
Thanks for saying so Stanley. Much appreciated. Do me a favor and tell a friend so we can grow a bit!
GEEEEE u checked every thing for sure, if Google says probably the sender yep as u said u going to try. me and Google has become real good friends help me on some crazy stuff lol. Keep it going bud.
How the hell did we ever figure anything out before Google? Somehow we managed I guess, but I'm sure glad we have it now. Thanks as always Lonnie!
I had the same thing happen when my 57 sat I had a low battery even with a new alternator. Turns out the stock amp alt was just not enough to fully charge the battery. Upgraded to a 100 amp and have not had any battery problems since. Just my sharing my issue for possibl3 solution.
Thanks for the info. I just put a 100 amp alternator on it last fall and it seems to be charging good so I think in my case it is just an old, weak battery. So far it's still hanging in there though...
Mine is a 67 G10 van. # of years ago I changed the send unit and the gage would swing when driving. Not so bad now but gage is pegged when full and runs dry at 1/3 tank. Sound like I need a new send unit in your opinion. .? Thanks.
Sorry for the late reply. I would agree sending unit OR something in the wiring between sender and gauge. If it goes to full when given power, than the gauge itself should be working. Good luck!
Wondered what happened to this 👌👌👌
Still got her,. Hopefully more DDSS '57 content coming son so stay tuned! Thanks!
The guy Dan bought the car from was bracket racing it so that welded rear panel in trunk is his blacksmith work not Dan's. Good to see the car driving again.AL B.
Thanks. Yeah, I assumed that was installed prior to Dan. I've been driving here a ton, super fun car. Thanks for watching!
Return to sender, address unknown. Looks like a new sender will do the trick. Better than replacing the gas tank too. Cheers!! 😎
Haha thanks Paul!
When you order a sending unit, buy a new set of screws and a CORK gasket. The sender will come with a rubber gasket. They aren't worth a crap. A few people have claimed they seal but most didn't. The screws must have the copper sealing washers. H&H has everything you need. Probably cheaper too. You do have all three grounds on the car right? Body, chassis, and engine? I'm excited to see your dads car.
Thanks man. I'll check out H&H, as I've never purchased from them before. Yep, I have good grounds, as that was part of the FiTech problem chasing last summer. I hope to have some content of my Dad's car soon.
That's one of my pet peeves. Why do they put a rubber gasket in the kit when they know good and well they are prone to leak? A fuel leak in a enclosed space like a attached garage is a recipe for disaster!
Did you try moving the float arm in the tank? It's like its upside down.. reading full like that... Moving the float arm should move the gas guage.. Unless its stuck or bad..
I messed with the arm when I had it out, and it seemed to work, so that's what puzzles me a bit. Thanks for watching.
Yeaah!
Hell yeah. Thanks Johnny!
JUST COUROUS DID YOU FIND THE PROBLEM..BY THE WAY GREAT VIDEO
I never did get that fuel gage working right. I believe the sender wasn't working right, even though I was getting an ohm reading. I never got around to changing it to test my theory. Someone else's problem now... Thanks for watching!
Power wire that is going to tank is not making good connection had the same problem I was missing the rubber boot so it was dirty.
Thanks for the tip Hunter. In my case, I do have a good connection there. I appreciate you watching and trying to help.
Hi Brad gauge in dash is good. If you are certain that the tank cender unit is grounded to the body with an extra wire then the tank unit has failed again. Get a new tank unit.
Thanks for the advice Stew. I think that is the plan. Now if I can just get around to ordering the dang thing...
I would take the sender out and move it with your hand and see if the gauge moves,
Exactly what I would have said
Thanks guys. I will do that once I burn some of the fuel. Much appreciated!
Ground the cluster as well
Thanks for the tip. I did do that, but no change to the fuel gage. I appreciate you watching and commenting!
Having these types of problems on the hydraulics on my dump truck.
I have not done resistance from sender body to car body, so I'll check that out. Thanks! I did do ground to sender wire, and it is not open, but gives me an ohm reading. This is why it kinda doesn't make sense to me that the sender is bad. I'm gonna pull it out when I run the fuel down a bit and investigate further.
@@MontanaGarage on my charger it the fuel gauge clicks on and off. Give a check engine so hard to sell the car. Think it’s a crack in the circuit board dash solder. Think I fixed that. Maybe wire got pinched. Same thing send 5 to rank what comes back tell the level. 5 full 0 empty
Take it easy on the brain box..Ouch!!!
Sorry man. Mine hurts too!
Well I'm still confused. Did you try tapping on the gauge? 🤣
That was step number one, sorry I left that out but figured everyone already knew that part of the process. Haha thanks Gorni!
Cork gasket with copper screws.
Thanks for the tips. I've heard that is the way to go, so that's what I'll do. I appreciate you watching Brad!
You say you replaced the sending unit, remember the 57 uses a 0-30 ohm, ( watch a touch more of video and yes you got the 0-30 ;-) great) if a difference range of ohm could give the false reading. The ground wire under one of the mounting screws to frame ground should bypass any of the sealing stuff you used.
Thanks for watching Verne. I actually did not replace it yet...
Problem is .... all these aftermarket parts are made in China! Got the same issue on my 59, I'm praying for you Brad.
Thanks man. I need all the help and prayers I can get!
The only good gas tank sealer is made by Caswell. It works and the others fail. Look it up and do a little research. You will be glad you did
Thanks for the tip Mark. I will check it out!
wiggle the wires on the back of the gauge in the dash
Oh they've been wiggled, switched, pulled off, new ends, wiggled more, etc so I don't think that is the issue. Thanks for watching.
Try to drive a VW Beetle in a Minnesota winter! You need three hands, steer, shift, scrape, repeat... You know the defrost is not doing anything, if you're really skilled and learn to hold the scraper in your teeth!
Haha sounds fun, and hard on your teeth! Thanks for watching.
Come on guys ! Not rocket science one wire - resistor- grd. Take one out of other tank and hook up to gauge move float and see how it works. Float makes contact with resistor.
Thanks for the tips Joe.
You got to test it out of the car check this video out my friend.
ruclips.net/video/435kwVAANxU/видео.html
Thanks John. I'll check out the vid. I did test this one last summer when I had it out, and it seemed to work. I'll pull it gain when i get rid of some of the fuel.
I am not sure that teaching you how is going to help as your efforts are jumpy at best... the wire leading to the gauge at the back of the car... haven't you got another sender in a tank known to be good? A known sending unit can be held in hand, and with all wires hooked to it, and the sender grounded properly as in a wire jumper or what ever, lift the arm up and down, hold it still as this is not a really quick response system... let the gauge catch up as in like a half tank spot, even if its laying on the floor of the shop, if the wires are hooked proper, it should read a half tank. Of course if you can get this shit tank to work an not have to spend money on it, wait till the tank fails pouring fuel on the hot exhaust and burns the car to the ground.... problem fixed cause of being cheap... a half ass job gives half ass results every time and thats a guarantee that never changes. Now I remember why I quit watching as you are always thinking of a cheaper way to get by just like the previous owner
Thanks for trying to teach me, but I'll probably never learn with my jumpy half ass efforts. If I had a sender known to be good, I'd be using it, don't you think? Even I am smart enough for that. I guess the only right way to fix things is buy new things? I'll try and remember that next time. So far, the car hasn't burned to the ground. Maybe tomorrow? I'll keep you posted. Perhaps you'll remember to quit watching again? Or, even better, maybe continue watching, but try and be a bit less negative, and we can all learn together. Perfect.
@@MontanaGarage Well noted!
Time 2 turn it into a 2 Door...
Passed time. Still looking for doors somewhere close to me, but no luck yet. Thanks for watching!