Best carburetor cleaner ever!
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- Sorry!, for the mirrored image, was done on my phone. How to clean your Holley or any other aluminum carburetor with 33% Muriatic acid without spending a ton of money with great results. This process is NOT compatible with all carbs. Do a small test piece first to make sure your carb is compatible with this method. Note: This process will not work with pot metal! (It will turn black) Make sure that when you rebuild your carb after this process you spray a little WD-40 on all the bolts, threads and steel parts before installing them. Good luck! I will be posting up my L79 (327) .030 over SBC 11:03.1 CR 331 CI build soon, using this rebuilt Holley 750. Please hit the like and subscribe button, Thanks!
Safety notes:
1. Eye protection
2. Rubber gloves
3. Well ventilated area
4. Dispose of the used acid solution in the toilet, keeps the pipes clean.
This is one of those RUclips videos that show what RUclips SHOULD be. Video - EXTREMELY helpful, clear, easy, lists what you will need, a great explanation. PERFECT.
Wow, thanks!
Ronnie, I tried your water and acid ....mixed it as you said and my carburetor ended up developing black gray scale....I’m not impressed
@@stevenbowers1513 was it hot or cold water?
@@HeatherWelk Cold
I agree only if they were all this well explained, very nice video
I am on the east coast of Canada so know all about cold and dreary. I am on my way tomorrow for a jug of muriatic acid. I rebuild and restore old outboards and some Tecumseh and Briggs engines. I have a sonic cleaner and have tried MANY so called cleaners...THAT carb looks GREAT. Great vid Ron.
Thanks!
Excellent Ronnie love it no music blaring no intro logos just the simple facts thank you!
Glad you liked it
Very cool Process! I would only worry about the inside gaskets, the rubber in the accelerator pump and the secondary vacuum diaphragms. I have the exact same carb on my 67 big block Mustang. Probably wont get in there, but I will remove them to be on safe side. Thanks for Posting.
Total disassembly before the dip in the acid. Correct!
@@ronniehenson4122 Thank you for your reply Ronnie! And yes, disassembly makes good sense. Navy Vet cheers from Motown!
Thanks Brother , I restore old motorcycles I have been struggling with this for Years , now I will try Your method .
Best of luck
@@ronniehenson4122 woud you take the time to manually scrub off any dirt, gunk, on the carb before dipping it in the acid or just save yourself the trouble and drop it straight in off a bike thats been sitting for 10 years?
Need to rebuild the carbs on my '83 Goldwing. Gonna try this method.
Appreciate your time doing this!!
Good luck!
Very interesting, in California Everything is illegal as. Far as EPA goes, so we don't have strong carburetor cleaner anymore. The Berryman carburetor cleaner if you leave the carburetor in to long turns it almost black. Great Video, 😃😃😃 Thanks
Excellent video. Next I recommend you anodized them when done. It's easy and you get corrosion resistance.
Loved your video need to find video on fuel regulator now bought a 73 Pontiac 350 engine car set for years the guy that started building it put electric fuel pump back by the tank ran when I bought it now started flooding pouring gas out the primary tube so took off to rebuild found out pump was putting out 9 lb pressure figured that's what caused it going to rebuild carb and put regulator on it but going to find out what pump is on it and see if it has an adjustment for pressure really enjoyed your video thanks
Thank you so much for video. Very clever and interesting
Looks brand new
Ronnie thank you for the video from another Okie but from the eastern part of our great state. I have been cleaning carbs in citrus water I made up
with citrus powder I got off Amazon that works very well also. But I plan to try your way also. I use to use Muriatic acid for cleaning cylinder walls
of racing kart engines that had stuck a piston when running to lean. It took the aluminum off the cast iron cylinder great. Just had to do it out side
or you found every thing rusting in my shop from the fumes it gave off.
White vinegar works great
Thanks for the tip!
Never use Acid on die cast. The body /bowls/metering block/metering plate/pump cover/pump nozzle are all Die Cast. Die Cast is a mixture of mostly Zinc and some Aluminum and other additives manufactures put in to make it flow and cure with out porosity (Zamak 3). Acid will eat Die cast. It will eat the small threads for the needle seat in the bowls. It will eat away the material around all your pressed in air bleeds and the will fall out. You said you tested a base plate. The base plate is Aluminum not Die Cast. I have been restoring carburetors for over 30 years. Plus acid will not degrease parts. I use a light caustic solution at 180 deg to degrease. Berrymans is a good degreaser. It works better when warmed up about 150 deg. Also my clean tank agitates the parts to rinse away the loose stuff. To get the die cast to take zinc plating or chromate conversion coating after it is degreased use a # 10 glass bead in a blast cabinet.
You want to rebuild my carb on my boat? It goes on a 2.5L mercruiser.
You are very correct !
And if you do manage not hurt any of the ports or other parts, you will have ongoing corrosion issues for the rest of the carbs existence. Ask me how I know !
Do yourselves a favor and find some Hydroseal to soak them in. And yes, I neutralized the acid after dipping.
The brown stain finish for non ferrous metal is called an, Iridite finish.
I believe new Holley carbs used to have a green dichromate finish
Remember: "Add acid to water, just like you otter!" This is an important thing to remember and a good phrase to help remember. Doing it the other way can actually cause the acid to explode outward, and it's very nasty stuff.
Tech for 50 years- 38 as a shop owner. If you have a carb that the air adjustment(s) do not change the mixture try this.
Old school way is to use a mixture of white vinigar and water (approx 30/70) and put the disassembled parts in a slow cooker on low over night. Works especially good at disolving the salts created by moisture in the fuel more especially by ethanol that carb cleaners won't touch.
Clean the as much grime and gunk as much as possible before the soak.
A little baking soda in the cleaning water will neutralize the acid on the carb. Great tip. Hello from the "east side of Oklahoma".
thanks for the extra info
Don't ever think a gunk up carburetor is junk. I've never seen one that couldn't be cleaned and restored to perfect Working order.
When walking down a hard packed oil soaked dirt driveway into a car collectors backyard, I Look down and recognise the corner of a Carter afb that had been completely buried into the driveway and had been used as pavement for years.
My friends laughed at me as I dug it out of the dirt gave him 5 bucks, cleaned it and the only thing I replaced was the leather or rubber accelerator pump plunger. I even used the old top half gasket.
Worked absolutely flawless.
Today so many people are blinded by shiny and sparkly things, they don't have a sound understanding of what makes something work. As long as all the internal passages are clean, it's going to work like new.
Thank you for sharing. I'm a contractor and my hobby is rebuilding old cars and trucks. I have used muratic acid to clean away oil and grease from concrete with really good results before painting with epoxy. The epoxy run about 100 bucks a gallon so you need good results or it's going to get expensive. And my customers won't be giving me a good referral. I will definitely give this a try. And thank you for your service. Our Son gave all.
Have you tried staining concrete with iron sulphate which is cheap and typical fertiliser?
Google it and look at the examples it's pretty impressive with some people have done.
No preparation is actually a requirement, as over cleaning in etching it doesn't work as well.
It's way cheaper easier and looks good, Especially for low budget job
Great tip, Ronnie! I'm a long time automotive and power-sports tech,and this is the ONLY way to properly clean a badly "gummed up" carb, irregardless of what it is on,once the fuel in it has begun to evaporate and thicken.A bad carb clean can have bad results. I use a Safety Clean commercial product,pretty strong,and have both accidentally AND purposely left metal only parts in this solution for as many as four days with no noticeable damage to the castings,but this may cause some pitting on softer metal welsh plugs,and it can etch brass .Only do these longer dips for carbs that CANNOT be replaced,or the carb cleaner/air method has little effect on dried up fuel,(and if you are an experienced,capable technician). And again,as you pointed out,metal and plastic parts only in acid,it will compromise rubber,I.E throttle shaft seals,bowl gaskets,etc.One important thing to remember,though,(users pay attention,you can save yourselves a lot of downtime,money and aggravation),is that a DRY carburetor or fuel system will NEVER need much,if any cleaning after any length of storage.Always drain a fuel system DRY for long term storage,and you will NEVER reach the point of needing this kind of service. IF you have a steel tank,you must keep it wet to prevent rust,but plastic will always be better off dry. I have made a large amount of money cleaning carbs and fuel systems over a long span of time that wouldn't have been necessary by using proper equipment and fuel storage methods.This applies for anything using any hydrocarbon fuel, (gasoline,diesel fuel,alcohol),that will be subjected to long periods of storage or non-use.Don't let the fuel evaporate!
New subscriber here. Old time carburetor guy (I'm 71 years old). Today both of my vehicles are fuel injection.
That carb looks new. Nice job. I don't know what a new carb costs today. Back in the day they were $60/70 dollars. In the 60's that is...
Enjoy your no BS video, and waiting for more. Thanks, from warm Florida.
Thanks for the sub!
Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work..
Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru.
You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes.
I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense. BTW.... Great videos.
Thank you for your service to our country. And, thanks for explaining as you did - without any of that coarse language that embarrasses. I appreciate you.
Much appreciated
Great info. Knew all that just never thought to apply to carbs. I use it on rusted tools and firearm parts. One additional step would be a baking soda/h2O dip to neutralize any remaining acid.
I’ve used denatured alcohol to neutralize acid with good results. As well. No powder residue.
I will have to try it on rusted tools, thank you for the advice 😊
Stunning work and info! Hydrochloric acid (Muratic/stomach acid) does remove everything. But it is very bad for iron, because it causes rapid rusting of the iron after it removes the rust. You can use Phosphoric acid after cleaning steel to remove the invisible rust and seal the metal by creating a thin layer of black iron on the metal, which prevents rapid rusting. Phosphoric acid must be used instead of Muratic acid, on iron parts, unless there is no other way to clean the rust. Evaporust works very well too, the liquid, and it removes rust very well without causing rapid rusting afterwards. Citric acid and Acetic acid also passivate and seal iron, instead of creating rapid rusting like Muratic acid. If you don't have anything, using vinegar (acetic acid) is good for iron parts and won't cause long term rusting and damage. Phosphoric acid/citric acid/acetic acid lightly passivate iron and protect it from rusting. You can also use these acids on stainless steel, with Phosphoric acid and Citric acid being the best for stainless, they passivate the stainless. Muratic acid, does not passviate steel or stainless steel, so it will rust or stain later when exposed to light moisture. This carburetor looks absolutely amazing! I'm only sharing this information because it may be relevant for people trying to clean steel parts.
Mr Ritalie I work in the metal machining and grinding case harden steels, we temper etch (Nital Etch steels) for burns,(Over Temper or re hardening), the trick is, clean with hydrochloric an water or alcohol, alcohol is preferred over water, it does not cause a condition called hydrogen embrittlement in harden steel, or it can be baked after etching to prevent embrittlement,
after etching in acid requires a solution of sodium carbonate (Baking soda) to neutralize the acid, and prevent surface deterioration from the improper neutralization.
then clean in hot water , then dip in oil to prevent corrosion. (rust) there more to this but for cleaning the above is all that is needed. any thing etched has to be neutralized then water rinsed and then dipped into a corrosion prevention. cast iron is a weird animal since it is high carbon, and will react different and detrimental. God Bless
You are exactly right! Muriatic acid is for idiots! Use phosphoric acid.
I've used vinegar for years. Cheap and easy provide you're patient.
@@rexmericle5068 hey Rex does the vinegar clean out the varnished gas in the tiny passages? Will overnight be enough? How about warming it slightly on the stove? Thanks
@@daveg2199 hi Dave it depends on how bad the build up is. What I generally do is disassemble the carb and leave it in vinegar for about two days. If you have heavy varnish I suggest pushing some carb cleaner through the various ports with all the brass parts out. It's always worked for me. I would think warming up the vinegar to soften up the varnish is a good idea. I have to tell you that the carbs I've worked on over the last 10 years are motorcycle carbs which are VERY "finicky" by comparison. Nice about vinegar, you can strain it through a coffee filter and reuse it and when it gets dark you can just pour it out on the ground.
Hi Ronnie. Great Video!! I'm a shop owner & have been looking for a good carb cleaner for years. We used to have great cleaners in this industry until the EPA killed them all. Always wondered about acid but never tried it. Now I will! This is a Great Help Thanks for spending the time to bring this to all of us!
First thanks for serving in the military and second thanks for sharing this tip. I have been very dissatisfied with the over the counter carburetor cleaner gallon can and baskets out there. They are not what they used to be. Thanks!
I had a 350 bord .080 over
And the younger boys say, What's a carburetor? I like the soda idea.
LOL!
Huh
@@ronniehenson4122 aasaaaa
LMAO when one of the wet behind the ears brigade calls it a carbonator!!! It has nothing to do with soft drinks!!
Muriatic Acid will eat aluminum so be careful, don't make the concentration too strong and don't leave something you care about unattended. That said, when it's diluted correctly it's a great cleaning tool. Thanks for the video.
P.S. Use it outside and avoid breathing the fumes....don't learn the hard way.
Also make sure your parts are completely submerged because anything above the surface of the acid will likely turn black or flash rust.
Once the Aniline dye is removed though, the carburetor is bare zinc and can corrode and get ugly pretty fast. I would not do this unless I had the dye to redo it. The steel parts, throttle lever, etc. are Cadmium plated, then Cadmium Chromate dipped - for corrosion resistance, I would be really careful to not remove it or you're going to have a bunch of rusty parts once the carb is out in the real world.
Instablaster
I always dip the parts in soda water to neutralize the acid when I'm done. Works good but I have mixed it too strong and left it overnight. Ate a hole right through the bowl. So be careful.
Great Video would love to see it done practically
Thats called sodium dichromate conversion coating it was put on there to help fight corrosion because some mixtures of air and moisture caused corrosion on metal parts. When the Rochester Quatrajet first debuted there was no conversation coating and no green teflon parts, Gm noticed this and now you know why the green came about.for the coating it didnt come around till the late 50s.this coating was first introduced to steel bolts to fight corrosion in air planes.cause most are aluminum.because aluminum and steel dont agree with temps very good. You did it backwards but if it worked then so be it. I use a heated sonic tank (I know most cant afford that and your way is good too) for my carbs first in kerosene and mineral spirits.for about hr.then they get blown out and rinsed off then they get soda blasted in my blast cabinet.(again I know most cant afford it.) Sometimes I replate these parts with a plating prosess but it doesnt have to have this plating . Then if I choose to then I can dichromate it.but this also doesn't need to applied for the DIYer I own DennisCarb here in ohio.and I get it the small guy needs to know that theres cheaper ways to DIY stuff. I'm known here for the 40 dollar rebuilds and the lifetime warranties.GREAT CHANNEL IM SUBSCRIBED. 6 to 600hp
This is extremely extremely extremely helpful
I’m a machinist, thanks for the great video, right to the point! muriatic acid can be used to remove broken taps, drills, screws etc from aluminum. It won’t hurt the aluminum, but will literally rust out the offending tap. All you need to do is build a wall around the hole to pour in the acid, use modeling clay, not play dough! Or silicone caulking like the stuff you use to fix your fish tank. Once it’s dry, pour in the acid, it will bubble as it eats the tap, when it stops, poke it with a paper clip to get it working again. This process might take a day depending how much steel you need burned out. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES!!!
I use muriatic acid to eat aluminum from seized pistons off the steel liner of motorcycle and ATV cylinders because it will dissolve the aluminum without damaging the steel/cast iron - it will remove broken taps and such by eating the aluminum/zink (white metal) away from broken steel. It will cause rust on steel, but only surface rust.
Come on, guys, ph doesn't get much lower so it likes anything metallic.
Hydrochloric Acid 37%
MATERIAL COMPATIBILITY
Aluminum D - Poor
Bronze D - Poor
Carbon Steel D - Poor
Carpenter 20 D - Poor
Cast iron D - Poor
Copper D - Poor
Nylon D - Poor
Polycarbonate D - Poor
Polyurethane D - Poor
PPS (Ryton®) D - Poor
stainless steel - 304 D - Poor
stainless steel - 316 D - Poor
Titanium D - Poor
Once it gets through the oxide layer, it's off to the races. ruclips.net/video/ZLz4bSXcuYY/видео.html
Very helpful, much appreciated 👍🏾
That’s fucking cool
Wonder if it will hurt brass? I’ve got a Honda carb with a compression brass inlet and seat that Honda doesn’t make replacements for….
Be EXTREMELY careful if You plan to do this to an old motorcycle carburetor. They are cast in a totally different material, and can easily dissolve if left in there without attention. It doesn't take much time either. Find a scrap carburetor You aren't going to use, and find out how strong the solution can be, and for how long You can dip the carburetor in there. Just wanted to warn You. Thanks!
Absolutely great info Ronnie....Thanks much, very well made video also sir.
Thank you!
Thanks for your information... I have cleaned carburetors before...but not with mur....acid! Maybe the next one I will try it!
Thanks!
Glad you posted this & I appreciate it. Very good video; direct to the point with no stupid background noise or unnecessary and unrelated conversation. Thanks, great job.
I appreciate that!
I AM A BOAT GUY...Use sulfuric sold at home depot..in the tile dept...don't need to carry acid mixed....Mix as you use it ....
Muriatic acid comes in a very broad variety of concentrations, it will be listed right on the label of the container you have. It would be nice if you included the concentration in your description below the video. Too high a concentration could acid etch the metal. I'm a retired chemical salesman and this is important information.
Read all my the description and you will see 33%......js!
Ford penetrating fluid, comes in a spray can
It's the only thing that dissolves the green lacquer
works instantly
Gm and dodge makes one we use
paint remover will remove the green lacquer
Thank you Brother for saving me time and money. I'm up in the Kansas City area was getting frustrated looking for alternatives to the good carburetor cleaners that were available in the 70's & 80's. Thx to your video, I liked & subscribed and will look no further!👍🙏
Very cool. Several of my projects require carburetor cleaning and rebuild which I have been dreading. Working with the usual highly volatile solvents is not so good for your health to put it lightly. This idea revitalizes my enthusiasm for tackling the carburetor conundrum. Thank you Ronnie. Your propensity for detail kept me glued to the screen. Keep up the good work sir thank you for your service.
Thank you!
Never thought about acid ...looks good ...coil cleaner ...ufuric acid ...will do bang up job too ...but don't leave it in the acid overnite..
Bad ass ain't no denying it thanks for your service to our country and the carburator cleaner video
Thanks for doing this video. I am going to follow your instructions, and do this for my 1977 Suzuki DS100C & 1980 RM125T Carbs. The 77 looks pretty crusty inside and out, the RM just needs a general on the outside.
Something worth mentioning; well ventilated area and respirator are great. Inhalation of hydrochloric acid vapors and mists produces nose, throat, and laryngeal burning, and irritation, pain and inflammation, coughing, sneezing, choking sensation, shortness of breath, hoarseness, laryngeal spasms, upper respiratory tract edema, bronchial constriction, bronchitis, chest pains, as well has headache, and palpitations. Tile man, 22 years, and have had to "acid wash" a few old tile jobs. Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid.
Muriatic acid is "diluted" hydrochloric acid. Anyone can read safety precautions. Did you know gasoline is flammable and deadly? But you put it in your car all the time but do you use gloves and a respirator? Your comment was not only unhelpful but ignorant to this video but thanks for sharing.
@@djrowe10 I am genuinely perplexed as to why you would reply to good advice in the fashion that you did. When I was younger I thought only ninnies worried about safety. My good lady is a nurse and sees a lot of these tough guys after they are given a prognosis of months or weeks. You know what a guy rotting from the inside out looks like? Yeah we all giggle about “safely third” but the fact is, if your messing with chemical, don’t be stupid. The damage may be down before your know it’s happening. “Well read the label!” A lot guys don’t read safety warnings. It’s sour that reiterating. Your reply is not only unhelpful, it’s irresponsible. Shame on you.
PS - comparing filling a car with full at a gas station and potentially working in an unventilated area over a vat of acid is incandescently stupid.
@@koch5000 Thank you for commenting on his ignorance; I'm sure, when he read the label on the HCL bottle saying 35%, he thought it was diluted. In reality, 35-37% HCL is considered concentrate.
Will be giving this a try, but please remember your typical Holley Carburetor is 80% zinc
Thanks for the info Dukes city Carburetors
"do as you oughta, add acid to water"...never forgot from science class in grade school! Great vid, Great idea!
Then, how can we add water to our batteries when we need to???
Battery acid already has water added to it. The rule is for the laboratory or if you do not know the concentration of the acid. Adding a couple of drops of water to some pure acids will cause the water to boil(turn to a gas)
Hey, I'll try it! I've got a couple old Holley 94's I can try it on. I'm tired of the mediocre results. I've got from the weak NAPA cleaners and not really interested in spending a ton of money for the high-end professional stuff.
Just make sure that the carb is not Magnesium. I put a VW beetle carb in full strength muriatic acid and within minutes all that was left was the brass and steel parts
Interesting. I may try this on some MC carbs today. Gonna go watch your follow up video now. Thanks.
I found that aluminum wheel cleaner works wonders. It’s acidic for break dust which does the job on gunk but safe on aluminum finishes.
Muriatic acid DOES attack aluminum, albeit slowly. Do not use this on a concours restoration part, we *can* tell. For 99% of carbs this is probally fine but can eat away at the balls that seal passages in some carbs and other embedded ferrics. I would start with ultrasonic and/or heat and a mild acid like 50/50 vinegar mix before resorting to the nuke mthod like this. Problem is it gets trapped in pits and continues to degrade the part. Do a LONG HOT water bath with a bit of bicarbonate and rinse afterward.
I use vinegar,,, I brought a 30 year old triumph motorcycle tank back to new with a 24 hour soak,,,and you don't have to worry about hurt any metal
Just a matter of time - your's be the slow way.
I was given a lawnmower by a lady who lived next door to some people having a yard sale. Free is always worth the price. Anyway, I got it home and took off the fuel cap, finding the tank extraordinarily rusty. It's the steel can that doubles as a "float bowl". Well, I decided to try some de-rusting agents to clean it out. Naval Jelly was first. Totally useless in the case of the fur lined tank. Next was Limeaway. A tiny bit better, but I didn't have a couple weeks to deal with it. Finally, I went with a drain cleaner that had been recommended by a local hardware store employee for a bad clog. It is called Bulldozer drain cleaner. I didn't have anything to lose, so I put the mower out in the yard and poured in a few ounces of Bulldozer. It started bubbling and fuming, so I retreated to the porch and used the solid stream nozzle on the hose, blasting out the tank from about fifteen feet away. I tipped out the water and saw shining metal in the tank. Two more treatments, and the interior was spotless. I used compressed air to dry out the tank. Sprayed the carburetor with some aerosol brake cleaner and gave it a go. Fresh gas and oil and a quick clean of the plug. One pull of the rope and it lit right up. Amazing. I used it a few times, and then a friend needed to borrow it. As far as I know, it's still in service.
I used some vinegar once on some rusted iron. It did a good job. I then put some very rusted brake discs in. I was shocked, it was dissolving the discs. SO, try a small piece of the same metal that you are wanting to clean.
Good morning Ronnie! I’m trying out the muriatic acid right now. I got a bike carburetor that needs cleaned. Thanks for the tip.
You earned my subscription with your straight forward information
Thank you for taking the time
Would like to see a video of you soda blasting and set up
Just pulled a 1barrel 1904 Holley from my 1961 Scout. The inside is full of "lacquer". Will let you know how it turns out.
Great video. Thats what we need, more people like you willing to share these things to save a few bucks - an expensive hobby old classics. Thanks - subbed.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video! Thanks for sharing! I have a small Japanese Made Outboard carb with clogged internal passages. Already tried boiling in lime juice with no luck. Think this will do better? Thanks.
Great instructions and step by step explanations. Been doing this for years on various auto parts. My only suggestion is to add a couple of rounded tablespoons of baking soda to your rinse water to neutralize the acid.
I have a couple of Holly's one is a 650 Doble pumper it has 2" secondarily butterflys and all my other carbs has 1 to 11/4 and it's a 750 can I mix the body's to get the bigger rear butterflys with the dual feed
You sir are a true inspiration,
Thank you for you sharing your knowledge, if you ever come down under you can see the same results, I followed your steps. Couldn’t be happier
Thanks!
My local Home Depot only carries the Kleen Strip Green muriatic acid. I have found that the mixture recommended in the video does not produce results anywhere near Ronnie's. After 3 ten minutes soaks it barely loosens the original dichromate finish. Apparenetly the "green" has a much lower percentage of acid. Even after adding another 6 oz. to the solution the results are disappointing. I don't recommend using this brand. Maybe buy something from a pool supply.
Dang! the vid is backwards, or am i drunk? Good vid.
LOL!
it's a right hand drive holley.
Yer drunk! I will also be in a few hours. I'll come back and see what it looks like.
Muriatic acid is an old name for Hydrochloric Acid. It has a multitude of uses, but is dangerous to misuse. In dangerous concentrations (30% or so) it will give you acid burns on your skin, in your airway, and in your eyes. Use a full face respirator with the right filters, the right gloves, and good ventilation.
Learn how to mix for a low concentration (1-2%) to start with. More might not be better because it will dissolve aluminum and zinc. The bubbles you see coming up are hydrogen as your carb is being turned into aluminum chloride. It will quit reacting when all the acid has been depleted. But yes, I imagine it would clean a carb very well.
First off, Thank You For Your Service SIr.
Second, this is an absolute PERFECT video. Thanks for this valuable information.
Glad it was helpful!
Well, I am back. My situation is a little different now. I have purchased a glass bead blaster cabinet and have set it up for the big event. During the last six months I have looked at all possibilities to not do a rebuild on my carburetor. Your find this strange but true. The state issued me a new title for my Fiat in 2015 and spelled Fiat wrong. They spelled it FIXT. believe it or not, I have been working to get that fixed before I get the car running again. Yes, I am still working on that.
I will be completely restoring my carburetors. Yes, I said carburetors, I have two. Over the years that I was working on the car, I kept parts I though some day I would need. I will be rebuilding both at the same time. Now that I am getting setup, it does not take much longer to do two instead of one. Material cost wise the cost is insignificant. I believe that you had contacted me about following my journey to rebuild these carburetors. I have been doing a lot of research, that's what I do. I am a self-taught electrical engineer. I am a principal designer for transmission substation protection and control systems. I work for the largest utility in the US. I will be sixty-seven this March and will retire. I have silver plated copper a lot during my career. I have also plated aluminum with silver. Aluminum is not as easy as copper but can be done. You need to copper plate aluminum before you can silver plate it. Yes, you can copper plate an aluminum carburetor body. It would look great but would quickly tarnish. I will be zinc plating the body of the carburetor and all the steel parts including the screws. I will then be putting a yellow chromate coating on the steel parts. Sorry I have lost it; send me an email and I will keep you in the loop. I have tried the ultrasonic cleaner and parts tumbler. I am not sure that they will be as much help as I thought.
Just what I needed to clean my carbs, thank you and thanks for your service Sir!
Thank you!
Great info. If someone was to wants a yellow look after the soda blast submarine aluminum in chem film. Leave it it Alodine for 10-15 minute.
Be sure to do this in a place with ventilation and no open flame (like pilot lights on furnaces or water heaters) - the bubbles are pure hydrogen and are flammable.
Bam!
great video ... I also use a mild 14k Gold testing acid to clean jets, emulsion tubes etc on lawn mower carbs....
Ronnie! You did a great job presenting and explaining the video. I'm going to try it on my next rebuild.
Glad it helped
Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) should NEVER be used on pot metal, or aluminum, ever. It eats away the metal and enlarges the orifices. One thing you do not need is to be changing any orifices sizes.
What a great tip. I'm not happy with the carb cleaners out there and this looks like the answer I've been looking for. Thanks for sharing.
Glad to help, thank you!
Awesome Video brotha, thanks! Showing love from OKC with a sub!
Thank you for this cleaner I’m going to tell my friend he has 5of them that are frozen with gunk!!
Glad to help
thanks for proportions for acid and water. i use phosphoric acid all the time for rust removal and have use muriatic acid to clean bricks and fireplaces. but never on a carb. I just bought an 84 Goldwing gl1200 at an estate not started in over 15 years cant even open throttles will try this if my carb cleaner doesn't work. i did the bike fuel tank in frame with electrolysis, it went from extremely rusty to spick and span, and just about ate up a 3/8" ready rod i had as my sacrificial electrode. enjoyed your video thanks.
Thanks for publishing this. I've been working on motorcycles for the last 50 years. I use Sulfuric acid (20:80 water) to achieve the same result.
Glad i came across this video, have a autolite 2100 carb I’m cleaning that’s a mess and chem dib isn’t cutting it. But was wondering what ya used to wash it after the acid dip. Just use regular chem spray afterwards?
Muriatic acid strips the chromate and zinc plating off of steel faster than nobody’s business. If you have any steel parts on the carb that are originally rust protected with zinc plating/zinc chromate (the yellow stuff)....that is gone in a millisecond. Muriatic acid takes steel to base metal....and rust will follow very quickly. If you plan to clean any steel parts this way, you will need to replate the them to prevent rust (if you are worried about rust). Any zinc is gone after it hits the acid.
I ALWAYS USE LAQUER THINNER IT WILL DISSOLVE VARNISH AND GUNK IN ALL THE TINY PASSAGES, I JUST FINISHED REBUILDING MY MOTORCYCLE CARBS AND THEY LOOKED LIKE NEW.
I've had good luck soaking parts in old diesel and then rinsing it white vinegar water solution.... retaining the luster and protection of the parts is important to me.
Super video thank ypu ! Good-bye to 45.00 chem dip
Ronnie, enjoyed the video. Have you tried or considered a baking soda solution to help neutralizing the acid dip on the parts along with with your water rinse? Appreciate your safety notes. Like your soda blast finish, well presented video!
No, that would be a good idea tho. I'll try it on the next one. Thanks!
Vinegar would be better.
Very good video, thank you!!! I would've liked to see the carb before the work you did to it, jJust to see how bad it really was!!
Also this trick can be used for removing zinc from steel before welding. It completely removes all zinc and anything else on steel, works awesome.
Awesome, The cleaner you get at the dollar store, Awesome.
@@340rps Does that do the same thing?
Well done sir really appreciate your sharing your knowledge thank you
Watched this three years ago worked so well I'm back 3 years later to make sure I'm doing it right again haha
Thanks!
I use gun wash from the auto body paint shops. It’s a lot like carb cleaner. I get a 5 gal pale and it last me a long time. It cost me about $25.00 and I can either pour it onto a rag or in. A pump sprayer made for chemicals. Leaves no residue and cleans just like carb cleaner just not with the high cost.
Would your idea work for an aluminum intake manifold? I have a new one I used for mock ups and it got some gas stains on it and looks ugly. I need to clean it up.
This is great! I remember in the 80's building small blocks and Holley and Carter Carbs were what we used. I remember using lots of carb clean, wish I knew about this then, but then again all we had back then was Chiltons no You Tube!
Great point!
Yes Haynes and Chiltton manuals my early teacher.
@@oakcliffpride They were good teachers, that and experience.
I second that! Knowledge is power and performance.
I have used all sorts of different stuff to clean carbs. While not ideal I have used dishwashing liquid! Though first wash all the excess crap off in the parts washer. Heavy squirt into the sonic cleaner. Then after that to get some sort of finish I use proper acid mag cleaner then blast off everthing with the pressure washer.
Not near as good as yours! At times on real grungy ones I have used glass bead in the blast cabinet.
Though be very carefull or you may end up with sand where it should not be.
I have seen several 'replated' carbs. Generally too blingy and it blocks up those fine passages in the main body and metering block.
Love the old Craftsman box you have. Perhaps a tool box tour ?
Might just do that. Thanks!
Thank you, brother, this was an amazing video and is just exactly what we wanted to find for how to do it at home, have worked on a lot of machinery but have a 360. My son just purchased and want to make it pretty so this was excellent information. Keep it up.
Great Info., Great way to clean intake manifold. Thanks for your service.
Thanks for watching!
I wish you would have provided a before photo as well. Nice job, though.
I have been using muriatic acid on lawnmower engines carbs for 20 years. I used it full strength, maybe I was wrong. I now use it on my water filtration system for cleaning. It works great on iron staining.
Nice one my man!! I'm off to attack the Yamaha Outboard & Holden Carbs 👍
He's 100 per cent right. I ve done many Amal motorcycle carbs that way , makes them run like brand new
HEY where can I get kits for my 850 Norton I just picked up . Please ...
You can get carb kits and almost everything else you need for that bike from us , Morgan Cycle in Winnipeg Manitoba. Ph# 204 691 7983