I just did the Liberty rear disc brake swap, but got new Powerstop rotors, shoes, snd calipers rated for towing. Crown makes parking brake cables for 1984-1996 disc brake conversions that are a drop in fit (it’s intended for their upgrade kit but works with ZJ or Liberty rear disc brakes on XJ as well). Mounted the ZJ hose brakes on one of the leaf spring bolts. I am stunned by the increased stop speed on these. And the parking brake grabs so much better than the drum brake - only need to pull handle maybe 1/2 way, and it’s solid grab even on steep hill. Wow. Rear disc brakes are awesome for Cherokee!!
Experience talking here: When you do this, the zero dollar option after the install is to find your proportioning valve (next to or under M/C), remove the stud from the front, pull off the o-ring and reinstall the stud. This gives full pressure to the rear disk brakes. Failure to do this reduces the pressure to drum brake levels and therefore doesn't really improve the brakes. Of course an adjustable proportioning valve (Ebay, etc.) is also a great option.
I did this swap on my 94 2 door. Definitely worth while. Hard part was getting the e brake cable mounted. I used a cable clamp u bolt and drilled a couple holes in the arm where the cable needs to hook up. Not much room but an option if you cant do the adapter pieces.
@@tortron I went to Harbor Freight and got a one and a half ton aluminum jack for mine because those little trolley jacks are so damn dangerous be careful with that thing they're really unstable I'm a master tech and I've seen a lot of those things tip over That's another good idea though The jack handle would be the perfect size it's about a half inch inside diameter that will compress all three of those little springs
The Liberty parts are a direct bolt on. No backing plate grinding needed and use the backing plate studs from the Liberty. Also, the front XJ wheel studs fit the rear axle and are the correct length for the disc brake rotor.
i did the conversion last year on my 8.25, but i used a kit. Only reason why, is by time i got done finding the parts i needed from junk yard and then new calipers and parking brake shoes and other random stuff to do it. for a few hunded bucks more give or take. I could just do the kit, and it already came with everything.
I know this is an old video, But when your trying to get that ebrake cable off. slide the box end of a wrench over the clip, Usually a 13mm and the cable clip will come out super easy.
Jeep has a way of making things so simple but every now and again you'll find some clip or bolt that looks like it was designed in a different universe. Lol like that e brake clip and the 2 bolts at the top of the bell housing that take an "E" socket like e35 I think
I got the G2 DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT FROM 4wheelparts was a direct fit. Didn't have to change the stud. No grinding was easy install. Its pricey and it Didn't come with emergency brake cables. I have 95 jeep cherokee xj with 8.25. With out ABS
@@motownXJdad9565 its the same thing you just dont have to grind out the backing plate to make it fit, I think you get ZJ brake lines instead of the liberty but if you put them on the backing plate before you pay they probably wont charge you for them
I did basically the same thing but didn't bother with the proportioning valve. WJ front brakes and KJ rears. I still need to try it on glare ice to see how the brakes perform, but its not looking like it is going to be a problem. Add a spare tire carrier with a 33" on it, and with that alone, you'll probably want the more rear brake bias.
when you scavenge your parts either from a ZJ or the KJ 8.25 for your swap, remove the 4 studs from the housing that hold the backing plate on so you can re-use them on your housing so your studs arent too short. remove the plate, put the 4 nuts back on so you dont booger up the threafs on the stud before you pound them out with a hammer
Well done I’m going to save this one. I’m thinking it is probably best to do this at the same time one would install a Torq locker, which sounds like a future project. And I assume that locker is still preforming well and was a good choice for the XJ. BTW in the warnings that you placed you did forget to include to mention California prop 65 🧐 Maybe next time, I actually have to include that silly warning with the XJ bags I make.
I have a 1998 XJ Classic 4x4. Getting ready to do brakes all around then seen your swap video. Does my model year fit the process you’ve explained here? Thx
I would try to get the emergency brake cable well away from the leaf springs. The movement from the leaf springs won't take long to rub through the emergency brake cable... Just an idea.
I wonder if you take 2 XJ body's cut them in half forward of the C pillar weld the 2 halves together make an "overland" trailer. replace one of the fuel tanks and use it for water. the other tank for spare gas tank.
I squirm every time I see a video with what I think might be harbor freight jack stands. If they're # 56371, 61196, or 61197, please google the recall and don't use them. Well made video! Thanks
What did u do about the brake proportioning valve in the standard master cylinder did u replace whole thing replace valve or u running it with drum brake pressure on disc and pad
All you recommending using liberty park brake cables you must have no lift cuz none of the Ford or liberty or grand cherokee cables are long enough with my lift. Also flop shop doesn't make the 8.8 cable adapter any more. So Im fabricating my own adapters using the long cables that are with the 8.25 drums.
I did the liberty disk swap, I even put in a HD brake booster to replace my old stock one. It still seems like I have the same braking power. I did forget to change out the spring/valve. Could that small part make the difference if I forgot that part??? Btw I’m trying to stop 35s still feels like stick brakes.
My 01 Sport has the 15 inch OEM steel wheels. It looks like the the XJs had 16 inch wheels at least. Would I be in for a tires and wheels investment to make this upgrade work, or will the XJ parts still fit?
You only need 3 threads for full bolt strengh. You could cut those down to half way down into the nut and as long as they are torqued its all gravy. I have my u bolts cut to 3 threads showing above the nut way easier to deal with then the way those long winded bastards are from the factory.
Quick question, what is that little contraption in front of the master cylinder with the hose that goes to the firewall? Do you have a video explaining what that is by chance?
With the axle out it would have been the perfect time to replace that short wheel stud.... And if it has a lot of miles on it I might have replaced the wheel bearing too.
Hey Bleep(lol) I just bought my first jeep(2000 4.0 straight six 4wd Jeep Cherokee) I don’t know anything about Jeep but I’ve always wanted one. Think you can answer some questions on how I can get it started?
Do you have to use the E break pads for the swap? because I cut mine off because I didn’t want it... Could you assemble it was just a rotor and backing plate and caliper?
You could, the parking brake shoes are just along for the ride until the cable is pulled. However even on a trail rig a mechanical brake is not only safer (what happens if you rip off a hydraulic brake line and then get into a steep descent?) but I often use mine to help cut a sharp turn or just provide some drag if needed on a crawl
89 is probably not a Chrysler 8.25 axle but a Dana 35. 8.25 out of a 96+ is an easy bolt in swap (grab the drive shaft too if you can, or do an SYE and new driveshaft) or you can do the Ford 8.8 swap which can be found with 4.10 gears, LSD, and disc brakes already, but will require new leaf spring perches and some other mods. It just depends on your location for what’s available at what cost, and skill set for which one is best for you.
I wish it would have explained the brake line situation a little better. I'm a little lost on how to adapt the stock brake line in the rear to the caliper. Sure it's easy, I just like to be thorough
First step is to mount the hose to the axle tube. You don't have to do it exactly as I did if you don't have a welder, just make sure it isn't going to contact anything and rub through. Then you need to shorten and bend the brake tube slightly to properly reach the ZJ hose.
@@DRTJon oh I see. So you just cut and replaced the existing brake line to meet up with the caliper line? Also what year zj can I pull this stuff off of?
@@slightlymodded1 correct it's cut just a few inches. Any ZJ with the V8 will definitely have the D44A rear that had disc brakes, I believe this was available in all production years of the ZJ
Get rid of crappy ABS? LOL. Many ZJs had ABS, I believe if you get the parts from one with it you’ll have wheel sensors that will work for your XJ but I can’t guarantee it since I have not done that
To me it's right where I want it. Haven't locked up the rears but they are definitely putting in work, I don't feel a strong dive on hard braking, it's well balanced.
@@DRTJon something I just thought about is what about in the snow from your experience with it the same question apply’s. I live in Michigan so ice and snow is a thing also. Thanks.
@@mishooter4774 haven't had any snow with them but I like to cruise gravel roads a lot and carry some decent speed at times. I haven't had any sketchy moments braking
Only way I know how to get one is at the junk yard or get a whole proportioning valve from a ZJ and you can just swap the spring in. I chose to swap in the spring because the ZJ valve, though it is the same dimensions and design, mounts differently. Far easier to change the spring than to undo all the lines and re-bleed the front brakes and everything. I found I did not have to bleed the front brakes doing it this way but YMMV
They bolt up, but with how the bearing retainer is on the end of the axle tube, you need a custom spacer (which presses on to the axle shaft when replacing the bearing) so with the thicker caliper bracket, the retainer is still putting the correct pressure on the bearing. If that sounds complicated, it’s not...it would just be a lot more involved than this pretty quick bolt on swap is
I just did the Liberty rear disc brake swap, but got new Powerstop rotors, shoes, snd calipers rated for towing. Crown makes parking brake cables for 1984-1996 disc brake conversions that are a drop in fit (it’s intended for their upgrade kit but works with ZJ or Liberty rear disc brakes on XJ as well). Mounted the ZJ hose brakes on one of the leaf spring bolts. I am stunned by the increased stop speed on these. And the parking brake grabs so much better than the drum brake - only need to pull handle maybe 1/2 way, and it’s solid grab even on steep hill. Wow. Rear disc brakes are awesome for Cherokee!!
Experience talking here: When you do this, the zero dollar option after the install is to find your proportioning valve (next to or under M/C), remove the stud from the front, pull off the o-ring and reinstall the stud. This gives full pressure to the rear disk brakes. Failure to do this reduces the pressure to drum brake levels and therefore doesn't really improve the brakes. Of course an adjustable proportioning valve (Ebay, etc.) is also a great option.
Bet ya 10 bucks only 30 percent of people do this; I wouldn’t have known.
Thank you.
Use liberty backing plates and calipers. No grinding needed, they slide right on. And 90s ford explorer parking brake cables.
Yes. Also can use KJ parking brake cables too. That's what I did.
What year of liberty?
@@cameronwebb3959 02-07
@Anders Briar yup, I've been watching on InstaFlixxer for months myself :)
People use the parking brake?😆
if you have the C8.25 rear axle use the rear brakes off a liberty as its a c8.25
To remove that parking brake cable, use a 1/2" or 13mm box wrench, slip it over cable end, over the lock clip and the cable will release.
Thanks for the tip!
My preference is a 1/2" drive 13mm socket. But to each their own
Loosely installing a small hose clamp does the same as well
i did the same thing years ago, but I used Liberty brakes and proportioning valve. Worked great!
I did one of these conversions 5 years ago and had quite the headache figuring out the e-brake situation so those tabs are really neat.
Right? Super simple straight forward, the best kind of work-around!
I did this swap on my 94 2 door. Definitely worth while. Hard part was getting the e brake cable mounted. I used a cable clamp u bolt and drilled a couple holes in the arm where the cable needs to hook up. Not much room but an option if you cant do the adapter pieces.
Great idea 💡
Cool, just bought a parts ZJ, for my son's grand cherokee, I was eyeballing the rear disc setup for my daughter's XJ! Now I know!
For my parking break I welded the KJ cable ends to my XJ cable ends. Works great.
@2:50 a 13mm (if I remember correctly) box end wrench will slide right over the tabs and close them in
Thanks! As I was editing I realized "I bet a box wrench or deep socket would work" DOH!
I was just going to add that 13 mm or 1/2-in wrench box then does work well that is the best tool for that cable Good call
@@DRTJon haha yea, I fought with mine with the screw driver for approximately 7 seconds before I went and found the wrench.
I use a bit of pipe. My jack hand e was about the right size
@@tortron I went to Harbor Freight and got a one and a half ton aluminum jack for mine because those little trolley jacks are so damn dangerous be careful with that thing they're really unstable I'm a master tech and I've seen a lot of those things tip over That's another good idea though The jack handle would be the perfect size it's about a half inch inside diameter that will compress all three of those little springs
The Liberty parts are a direct bolt on. No backing plate grinding needed and use the backing plate studs from the Liberty. Also, the front XJ wheel studs fit the rear axle and are the correct length for the disc brake rotor.
What year for liberty?
@@prestonbarrett5336 I used parts from an ‘04
i did the conversion last year on my 8.25, but i used a kit. Only reason why, is by time i got done finding the parts i needed from junk yard and then new calipers and parking brake shoes and other random stuff to do it. for a few hunded bucks more give or take. I could just do the kit, and it already came with everything.
@minegun3 where did you get the kit from?
??? How much was it
WOW! Just found this, i wish i had before i did my drum to disc brake swap. But am now on the "ZBLEEPINJEEP WAGON" keep making great video guys🎉🎉🎉
Thank for the link to those adapters John.I like that better than cutting and splicing....
I have always used a small hose clamp to get out the parking brake cable. 1/2" box end wrench works also
1/2 inch wrench works great to remove the parking brake cable from the backing plate.
I know this is an old video, But when your trying to get that ebrake cable off. slide the box end of a wrench over the clip, Usually a 13mm and the cable clip will come out super easy.
parking break cable release from backing plate can usualy be done by slipping a open end wrench onver it to compress the tabs
Box ended side works much better
I don’t even own a Jeep, yet still watched the whole video.
Thank you, that comes as a major compliment 🤘🏻
next step will be tha rear rotor and brake parts from WK, there will be more contakt surface between rotor and pads.
Jeep has a way of making things so simple but every now and again you'll find some clip or bolt that looks like it was designed in a different universe. Lol like that e brake clip and the 2 bolts at the top of the bell housing that take an "E" socket like e35 I think
I got the G2 DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT FROM 4wheelparts was a direct fit. Didn't have to change the stud. No grinding was easy install. Its pricey and it Didn't come with emergency brake cables. I have 95 jeep cherokee xj with 8.25. With out ABS
liberty brake backing plates go on a little bit easier but same swap. been planning on doing this when my drums need to be serviced again
yeah the KJ Liberty seemsto be an easier swap and easier to find in the junkyads
@@motownXJdad9565 its the same thing you just dont have to grind out the backing plate to make it fit, I think you get ZJ brake lines instead of the liberty but if you put them on the backing plate before you pay they probably wont charge you for them
When pulling the emergency brake if you get the proper size line wrench you can push it over there and it will push all the pins and at the same time
..Or, just get a ZJ ! Sorry I lost mine - rear-ended by a Peterbuilt and totaled. 19 years and 300K on it b4 that. Nice video and good work!
Those adapters are cool. I wish I had those when I did mine.
1/2 inch box wrench over the clips of the parking cable compresses the clips to remove it.
I did basically the same thing but didn't bother with the proportioning valve. WJ front brakes and KJ rears. I still need to try it on glare ice to see how the brakes perform, but its not looking like it is going to be a problem. Add a spare tire carrier with a 33" on it, and with that alone, you'll probably want the more rear brake bias.
when you scavenge your parts either from a ZJ or the KJ 8.25 for your swap, remove the 4 studs from the housing that hold the backing plate on so you can re-use them on your housing so your studs arent too short. remove the plate, put the 4 nuts back on so you dont booger up the threafs on the stud before you pound them out with a hammer
Ok this is going to be a dumnb question you sad ZJ or the KJ what jeeps are them going to a junk yard to get the parts.thanks
@@robertwilliams2623 ZJ is 93-98 grand cherokee, and KJ is a jeep liberty
@@motownXJdad9565 thanks for the info
Apparently a 13 mm wrench works in compressing brake cable from backing plTe
Well done I’m going to save this one. I’m thinking it is probably best to do this at the same time one would install a Torq locker, which sounds like a future project. And I assume that locker is still preforming well and was a good choice for the XJ.
BTW in the warnings that you placed you did forget to include to mention California prop 65 🧐 Maybe next time, I actually have to include that silly warning with the XJ bags I make.
When you remove the drum and all the parts fall out. Jeep life 😂😂
I have a 1998 XJ Classic 4x4. Getting ready to do brakes all around then seen your swap video. Does my model year fit the process you’ve explained here? Thx
Yes
Anytime you have to bust out the welder, it is more than a “simple” project.
I would try to get the emergency brake cable well away from the leaf springs. The movement from the leaf springs won't take long to rub through the emergency brake cable... Just an idea.
Matt even had a tip to use a 13mm wrench for the e brake, fuel line clips and stuff like that also works
If I ever get an XJ, and the brakes need replacement, I will do it.
For now, I have a pretty sweet ZJ and it has ZJ brakes.
Awesome tutorial. Insert obligatory Harbor Freight Jack Stand recall notice here. Cheers. 😂
yep swapped out my recalled models
@@DRTJon Nice.
Thank you.
All, any idea whether this will also work with the TJ, or what modifications are necessary?
Yellow 😍
I wonder if you take 2 XJ body's cut them in half forward of the C pillar weld the 2 halves together make an "overland" trailer. replace one of the fuel tanks and use it for water. the other tank for spare gas tank.
The rental car joke made me chuckle
Discy brakes make the better stoppy stops😎👍
Helpful video
i find a ring spanner that fits over the e brake cable to remove it !
Definitely doing this next time thanks!
Will this work on a TJ??
Whats the deal with the springs? I was confused about what that was used for? Please explain
Next time on the brake cable. Use the boxed end wrench. 13mm. It closes all the ends together.
when upgrading, will the zj master cyl bolt in to the xj. I need to replace my MC anyway. it would save me having to change the proportioning spring.
Please do a video on how you built your front bumper or where you got it
The best way to remove the brake hose would be to put the flare wrench on the nut and the vise grips on over top.
Solid suggestion
Since I don’t have a rear locker I may install second calipers for cutting brakes
I squirm every time I see a video with what I think might be harbor freight jack stands. If they're # 56371, 61196, or 61197, please google the recall and don't use them.
Well made video! Thanks
Awesome DIY.... Thx
What did u do about the brake proportioning valve in the standard master cylinder did u replace whole thing replace valve or u running it with drum brake pressure on disc and pad
I’m confused lol.. I thought to do this conversion you have to drain the rear diff fluid and remove the cover and rear axels ??
I’m trying to do a propportion value spring swap, but having an issue. Seems like the spring doesn’t fit correctly. 95 xj and parts frm a 98 zj.
All you recommending using liberty park brake cables you must have no lift cuz none of the Ford or liberty or grand cherokee cables are long enough with my lift. Also flop shop doesn't make the 8.8 cable adapter any more. So Im fabricating my own adapters using the long cables that are with the 8.25 drums.
I did the liberty disk swap, I even put in a HD brake booster to replace my old stock one. It still seems like I have the same braking power. I did forget to change out the spring/valve. Could that small part make the difference if I forgot that part??? Btw I’m trying to stop 35s still feels like stick brakes.
Hose clamp to remove emergency brakes cable
My 01 Sport has the 15 inch OEM steel wheels. It looks like the the XJs had 16 inch wheels at least. Would I be in for a tires and wheels investment to make this upgrade work, or will the XJ parts still fit?
Great video! Those u-bolt cuts look dangerous tho. They're cut really short; wouldn't want them to loosen up because they'd come off real quick.
You only need 3 threads for full bolt strengh. You could cut those down to half way down into the nut and as long as they are torqued its all gravy. I have my u bolts cut to 3 threads showing above the nut way easier to deal with then the way those long winded bastards are from the factory.
Quick question, what is that little contraption in front of the master cylinder with the hose that goes to the firewall? Do you have a video explaining what that is by chance?
Air filter. The intake is in the wiper cowling. Raises the intake without a snorkel.
Could u plse tell me where to get the adaptor brackets for the er rake cables
A box end wrench is the easy way to release the break cables.
I'm curious about your air filter housing. I can't quite make out the brand to search for it.
Unique Metal Products. Keep in mind I’m running that because. Of the TDI swap, it will absolutely not fit in there with a 4.0
@@DRTJon hahaha. Spotted the random cowl filter housing but totally missed the TDI swap! Thanks anyway
With the axle out it would have been the perfect time to replace that short wheel stud.... And if it has a lot of miles on it I might have replaced the wheel bearing too.
What about maintaining abs?
Why did they install drums if everyone hates them? What are the pros and cons of each?
Hey Bleep(lol) I just bought my first jeep(2000 4.0 straight six 4wd Jeep Cherokee) I don’t know anything about Jeep but I’ve always wanted one. Think you can answer some questions on how I can get it started?
Do you have to use the E break pads for the swap? because I cut mine off because I didn’t want it... Could you assemble it was just a rotor and backing plate and caliper?
You could, the parking brake shoes are just along for the ride until the cable is pulled. However even on a trail rig a mechanical brake is not only safer (what happens if you rip off a hydraulic brake line and then get into a steep descent?) but I often use mine to help cut a sharp turn or just provide some drag if needed on a crawl
Yeah big upgrade from your blasted drum brakes lol.
I have a 1994 XJ with the police package for the drum brakes. Any idea if this mod will work on mine?
in 94 they did not have the 8.25 axle. You can easily swap one in, which would almost certainly be an upgrade. The 94 I had came with a Dana 35 axle
@@DRTJon purchased my 2dr 2wd sport ax-15 brand new it came with an 8.25, pushing 416k miles on it with a gear swap from 3.07 to 3.55
Can you give me some info on those wheels please?
Let me ask you a question. When you did the front brake upgrade, did you weld the spacers or just bolt them on??
I welded them
What size wheels are your running? Do you know if 15 inch wheels will still work after the upgrade?
I have 17” but these aren’t huge brakes I don’t see a problem with fitting 15”
Should have used a 13mm or 12 mm wrench for that E brake cable holder thingy
Is the Renault 2.1 td?
Would this work the same on a 2wd MJ Comanche?
This is not the banana you are looking for
😂😂🍌🍌🍌🍌
Just did this last weekend. Ha. Used liberty plates.
My XJ is an 89, yours looks a little newer. Same brake setup?
89 is probably not a Chrysler 8.25 axle but a Dana 35. 8.25 out of a 96+ is an easy bolt in swap (grab the drive shaft too if you can, or do an SYE and new driveshaft) or you can do the Ford 8.8 swap which can be found with 4.10 gears, LSD, and disc brakes already, but will require new leaf spring perches and some other mods. It just depends on your location for what’s available at what cost, and skill set for which one is best for you.
Which rock sliders are those?
What rotor did you use?
Hey need to pick your brain can i use the disc brakes off a 99 grand Cherokee for mine 93 Cherokee thank you
Where’d you buy the rotor from?
It’s just a ZJ rotor from any parts store
I wish it would have explained the brake line situation a little better. I'm a little lost on how to adapt the stock brake line in the rear to the caliper. Sure it's easy, I just like to be thorough
First step is to mount the hose to the axle tube. You don't have to do it exactly as I did if you don't have a welder, just make sure it isn't going to contact anything and rub through. Then you need to shorten and bend the brake tube slightly to properly reach the ZJ hose.
@@DRTJon oh I see. So you just cut and replaced the existing brake line to meet up with the caliper line? Also what year zj can I pull this stuff off of?
@@slightlymodded1 correct it's cut just a few inches. Any ZJ with the V8 will definitely have the D44A rear that had disc brakes, I believe this was available in all production years of the ZJ
Hey Matt where do you ride in the east Tennessee area (Loudon)
Mostly they’re at Windrock
@@DRTJon that's definitely good riding i would like to ride with you guys
Come to the fan ride at a Windrock weekend of 10/8!
@@DRTJon ok I'll keep that's in mind👍
I'm interested what's under the hood
7 episodes about it my man, TDI swap
What do you do about ABS sensor?
Get rid of crappy ABS? LOL. Many ZJs had ABS, I believe if you get the parts from one with it you’ll have wheel sensors that will work for your XJ but I can’t guarantee it since I have not done that
How’s the brake bias now compared to stock?
To me it's right where I want it. Haven't locked up the rears but they are definitely putting in work, I don't feel a strong dive on hard braking, it's well balanced.
@@DRTJon something I just thought about is what about in the snow from your experience with it the same question apply’s. I live in Michigan so ice and snow is a thing also. Thanks.
@@mishooter4774 haven't had any snow with them but I like to cruise gravel roads a lot and carry some decent speed at times. I haven't had any sketchy moments braking
Could you do this with ABS on the rear
I believe so, just get your parts from a ZJ with ABS
Use a socket to remove your parking brake clip
Can anyone recommend a soup-to-nuts kit that has all included components, without the need to hunt around?
I have the Dana 44 in the back. Anyone know the cheap Jeep way to get rear disk?
Can I get that spring separate?
Only way I know how to get one is at the junk yard or get a whole proportioning valve from a ZJ and you can just swap the spring in. I chose to swap in the spring because the ZJ valve, though it is the same dimensions and design, mounts differently. Far easier to change the spring than to undo all the lines and re-bleed the front brakes and everything. I found I did not have to bleed the front brakes doing it this way but YMMV
will this work on an 1989 with Dana 44?
They bolt up, but with how the bearing retainer is on the end of the axle tube, you need a custom spacer (which presses on to the axle shaft when replacing the bearing) so with the thicker caliper bracket, the retainer is still putting the correct pressure on the bearing. If that sounds complicated, it’s not...it would just be a lot more involved than this pretty quick bolt on swap is
@@DRTJon Thanks, I am finding that a single diaphragm brake booster with drum brakes and 35 inch tires make stopping a bit slow.
👍🏻