Serious pack build Hands down the best video on the topic. Great method for durable bonding and agree with the copper buss and soldering technique you employ. Hard to get the Samsung 30Q 3000mAh Got to choose from what isn't sold out. And as with everything post pandemic they are more than before. Certainly in Aug 2023 you are looking at ~$900 USD for 84V 20A alone. I would buy an 84v 23S 10P pack off the shelf but it is a fools game. No BMS and no idea as to brand of 18650. I have to give serious thought to replacing the lead acid batts in my Damak Eagle
I’m curious as to how this is a 220A max cont pack when 14 cells in parallel is 210A which each cell having a max cont of 15A , 15A x 14 in parallel is 210A and how does that then have 300A peak discharge can someone elaborate?
I want to build a 24 V -500 Watt battery, for a stroller for a child with locomotor handicap. I don't know how to assemble them, nor how many batteries I need, if you have a sketch, a technical drawing please. thank you very much
I can definitely help design this battery pack and provide some technical drawing. please feel free to book a session on my calendy calendly.com/gaiusgarage/30-min-consult
Hi mate great video I am looking to build the 20s battry but with only 6p I got 120 Samsung 40t, 21700 cells my controller is sabvoton 100a and I think 6p is good enough for my need now I need help with battry configuration is there any advice or software by the way my frame is stealth Bomber same as yours
I am doing the same in a stealth bomber. I have 200 iam trying to do 20s10p. I am waiting on the battery cells to arrive this week. I feel like this 4 module rectangle should fit. With less sells it should fit easy and with a big control inside.
Are the multiple wires from the bms on both positive and negative just to spread the amps over 4 wires ? Is it best to solder them like you did in different places along the mains pos and neg area of the 72v battery or does it not matter ?
@@cajab7407 yeah it's just to distribute the amps over several smaller wires vs. using a very think wire - generally you would do this to make it more flexible and easier to solder. if you have the option it's better to spread out where they're soldered
Hi, Did wraping the battery in hear restant foam cause any heating or overheating or slow cooling issues? I want to wrap the battery i am building in foam as well for decrease vibration but am hesitant about overheating issues. Great built.
No, I never had any issues with overheating. heat is not really an issue unless you're really pushing a battery pack to it's limits. in this case, I would only run it at max discharge for short periods of time (when accelerating hard) but most of the time the demand was much more moderate. so overheating was not an issue even when wrapped and placed somewhere with little airflow
20X14 =280 batteries x ~ $4.75 per battery = 1,330.00 for the batteries and maybe 100.00 for the BMS and of course you need a spot welder + ~140.00 depending on which one you get. So 1,570.00 ish
please book a project consult with me on Calendly. It's $25 but cost will be applied to your build if you decide to move forward. If I can't help, I will refund you the full amount. calendly.com/gaiusgarage/15-minute-consult
Excellent work. Very nice build. I cant find the 220 continuos 300A max discharge BMS. The ones available are 240A continuous but 550A max. Im usisng 14P sony VTC6 cells so I have max 420A discharge. Should I go for a lower continuos discharge? Let's say 170 continuous 425A.. Thank you.
Know what ?? I will use a 550 watt soldering iron to solder the copper strips !! Fast job ! My original idea is to melt things to hell with this thing . Also , that you have said for 220 amps , that can easily output about 800amps if needed , or that is what I would let it do . Well if you think where the heck did I get the idea of doing destruction with this beast , have a look at the channel named : COLIN FURZE !!! He is an absolute beast !! This channel too is amazing ! Nice videos ! Keep it up ! Hope you get a sponsored soon !
Everything seems to be well thought of. However, the 8 AWG wire going into the EC8 connector threw me off. Isn't that gauge rated for maximum 45A? what am I missing?
that rating pertains mostly to residential wiring. you can run pretty much any current through any wire, with the factors being voltage drop, length of wire, time the current is applied. for short runs (pretty much anything on an ebike or battery pack) the voltage drop is miniscule even at 200A. if you look up what gauge wire is "rated" for 200A, I would have to use zero gauge, which would be ridiculous
How many amps would be this config......??Quick question, I just got a 72v battery pack 20s and believe is 6p, have 120 cells in it (liitokala 5000) but not sure how much amps really is as it doesn't have any labels.
With the prices of batteries, debating dipping my toes into trying to build a pack. I need a larger AH battery, the options are just too expensive though. Thank you for showing me the basics.
THAT IS THE MOST SEXY BATTERY BANK IV EVER SEEN ! I don’t know what it is about 18650 batteries but there so dam nice looking when built up! Very nice build buddy. Loved ya video. Thanks for sharing. 🌟SUBSCRIBED🌟 👍👍👍👍👍THUMBS UP👍👍👍👍👍
I would like to attempt to build that exact same battery but at this moment in my life I would like to buy that battery is there any chance I could pay you to build one for me
I have seen videos of rion and they use a custom made machine to spot weld copper directly into battery cells, like this wouldn't you be unable to ever swap cells if needed, rendering the entire battery useless if lets say there is a critical imbalance between cells or some cells get damaged... couldn't you use just the nickel strips?
Hello sír,I like tó make a consultation but paypal can't allow ME inside ,can we discuss I send you the Cost with other method if IT possible ,just help ME please im a delivery driver
I'm sure you heard about the sur ron X ! Did you think this battery can fit in the battery caps of the sur ron and it's possible to work with sur ron motor and bac 4000 Controlor ?
Brilliant stuff, I'd have watched this if it was normal speed the whole build. If possible, could you release an unedited build showing every moment, like you did here but without speeding up or doing cuts. Either way this was the best battery video for powerful ebikes I've found from months of looking
thank you! I actually don't have the raw footage anymore but even if I did it would be hours of footage. is there anything you wanted to see more closely in particular?
@@GaiusGarage oh belive me I know it would be hours haha and it was more interest toward the techniques used throughout the process, this video covers everything in wonderful detail, I was just thinking if you're doing the battery build anyways filming the workspace even without talking much would show the nuance detail. Again this video is easily great enough for using as a building manual. I just really enjoyed this build and if a future one is ridiculously long I would just watch it in sittings a few times over before going about building my own powerful battery. Just something to throw out there if you were looking for any ideas. All the best mate 👍
Can an escooter's controller use 14s6p 52v 20ah battery when original battery is 48v 20ah 13s6p battery? Or must series and parallels be same or something?
only the voltage is important. 13s & 14s is close enough that it should work without issues. but you should check the specs on the controller to make sure you're not exceeding the max operating voltage. Keep in mind 14s fully charged is 58.8V so if the controller can handle ~60V you should be good
Really nice job and great battery pack, but I belive that you shouldn't trim bms balance wires, it introduces resistance difference in wires and could interfere with the bms readings
thank you! interesting thought on the balance wires - to my understanding the BMS is measuring the voltage potentials only from the balance wires, in which case the current (dependent upon resistance) wouldn't matter. but if the BMS performs some other functions that depends on measuring current in the balance wires with some high degree of precision, then their length might play a role
you must not divide the current carried by the number of cells because the nickel connecting them will see the entire load of all 14 cells put together in the group. now the load for each battery cell in the group will be divvied between them, but the nickel connecting them will see the entire load of all the cells in the group
Thank you! The charger I use is custom made - just a 1500W power supply connected to a boost converter. This is the cheapest option to charge at >10A - chargers for sale at >10A tend to get in the hundreds of dollars. Here's an example of what I'm describing but at 100V (so current is lower). ruclips.net/video/tSj76sVALwg/видео.html
I got another question: I already finished my project and everything seems to work fine. I connected the battery to a 6kw QS motor. When the battery reaches 60% discharge while using it... suddenly the voltage goes to cero and the battery discharges empty.... so sad...@@GaiusGarage
@@romanominghi2990 not sure. maybe BMS is misconfigured - impossible to determine given the info provided. please feel free to book a consult and I can try and dig into the details calendly.com/gaiusgarage/30-min-consult
The foam between layers of the pack is a bad idea. You either want the cells to be in direct contact with each other so that heat from cells at the center of the pack can be conducted outward, or you want to have aiflow through the pack. Having neither, you increase sag as the inner cells heat up.
Ive used 100% in a day - but it takes a lot of riding at full throttle. 45 min to recharge at 25A but I usually charge at 10A to ensure longevity - so about 2 hours give or take
Absolutely superb in depth video.So well explained and filmed put. Like many here, I’d love to see this on the bike that its been made for and demonstrated 😊 👍
ditto to the above comment by jonnyswlk4674, i canna say anything more, this is the best instructional video i ever saw, alas i don't understand much of it lol.
@@GaiusGarage Hi hello sir, may I allow to ask a question and please help reply with your expertise on ebike battery. Yesterday when I was paddle my ebike at home with the parking stand mount on the floor, for testing the ebike speed, then suddenly my mother was talking to me, instead of I need to press the hand brake to stop the spining ebike, I turned off the ignition key, THEN I heard a "pop" sound (the motorhub was still in high speed spinning) I don't know the "pop" sound was came from the battery or came from the controller. Sir, may I ask in most of the cases, let say, if a person paddle the ebike halfway through, when the battery still on going supplying the energy into the controller, and the controller still on going supplying the power into the motorhub, and the motorhub still drawing power spinning at fast speed, then he turn off the ignition key OUT OF SUDDEN to cut off the ON GOING power supply intake from the battery, in this case what will happen to my battery? Sir, please help me, then I unpluged the ebike power plug from the battery, then I turn on the key ignition to purposely release the electric in the controller, then I plug the ebike power plug into the battery and heard a as usual spark sound. My concern now is, how do I know I already wound, injury, or damage my battery or not sir. Hope you understand my question, trillion thanks if you would please reply sir.
@@GaiusGarage it's ok to charge from the main output connection on these batteries? my EUC battery has two pairs of smaller black and red wires coming out that don't indicate any voltage
Hi, I am a highschool student and for a fun project I decided to build an electric pit bike, as well as building a custom battery to fit the spacing required. I custom built a 52v 28.8ah (14s12p) battery with samsung cells and before I put the bms (50a 14s Daly BMS) on, I tested the pack with a voltmeter and it read around 58.6 volts, which was perfect. However, when I soldered the bms wires on, and put on the connector, it read 14.5 volts. That was around a month ago, and now when I test it the voltmeter reads around 9.5 volts. I checked all of the bms wires and they were fine, so I don’t understand how I am getting that voltage. I saw online that sometimes a BMS can be “asleep” and that you can wake it up by charging, so I tried that and it didn’t even charge. I am now feeling very frustrated and defeated, because everything went so well until the BMS part. Everything in terms of the nickel strips and batteries is good, but it is just something with the BMS. I wasn’t able to get a very good solder on the main positive wire, so that could be the issue. This is all for an electric pit bike project that I’m doing, and I just feel very defeated now, which is why I’m seeking external help. Sorry for the very long email, but this is just the problem that I am facing. Do you know a possible fix or any way I can contact you for you to provide further help. Thanks in advance.
I've also experienced this and haven't yet found a solution. I ended up using a different BMS, making sure to use flux and minimal heat when soldering the leads. I also had the balance wires unplugged when soldering the first BMS so I'm not sure if plugging them in and soldering the cells in order made a difference. My best guess is that a protection circuit has been triggered or one of the cells isn't being registered making the BMS shut down due to low voltage. I hope you find a solution.
I can help you debug over zoom - please feel free to book a 30 min session on my Calendy. you would need at least a multi-meter to do some testing. If I cant help I will refund the cost calendly.com/gaiusgarage
@@NaTe4825 Oh ok thanks. I had the balance wires unplugged from the main connector when I did it so that’s possible to make a difference. I’m going to see if there are any wires without a strong connection or something. Thanks for the help and the wishes, I appreciate it
@@GaiusGarage Ok that sounds good. And for you refunding me if you don’t help, does that mean if you can’t help me get the battery working or just if you can’t help me at all. I have a multimeter. I do have a question about the multimeter if you know though. When I first read the voltage and it read 14.5, I decided to switch around to the different multimeter settings. On of them, which reads uA (macro amps) I got a reading of 54.6. Do you know how I could have gotten an amp rating out of it?
How much would you charge for a battery like this set up for the 5000w electro & co razor bikr kits? Their batteries are 72v 10ah and cost around $1000. Which im sure is around the price you spent to build this much better battery.
yes, you are correct! About $1k to build this. Would probably charge $500 for labor. So total price would be whatever the cost of materials + $500 + shipping. Would only be able to ship within US
the motor rating does not matter - you need the energy efficiency of the vehicle (W/km). If you dont know this, you can estimate from your motor controller. If the controller pulls 100A at full speed, and this battery is 42Ah, then you will get 42/100 = 0.42 hours of ride time or ~25 minutes. However far you get in 25 minutes, that's your range.
Could building my own pack be a fair amount cheaper. I see 72v pack going 600 hundred plus. Im wanting to build a ev scooter or something light and fast
probably wont be cheaper but the advantage of building your own is that you can design it for high discharge. the 72V packs they sell commonly have 150A max discharge, usually less. of you build your own you can design for whatever your needs are. but cost will be similar or even more depending on what you build. but most of the cost are the cells so if you can salvage some good cells for cheap, youre at a big advantage
@@GaiusGarage awesome incredible job! Would you clarify something for me that 80 mm number seems too narrow because you have 7 batteries going one way and 8 the other.
@@samjohnson517 yes, actually you're right. I wrote those numbers down where and just copied them to answer above but it doesn't make sense. dimensions are 325 x 144 x 126
okay thank you very much I have the same frame as the bike you built this for so it should fit, I'm starting to order stuff from your links you inspired me. I'm here in the US if I chicken out and Ithink I may LOL I'll probably ask if I could ship the stuff to you.
@@samjohnson517 DM me on Instagram (link in description) not sure what I would charge to build if you send me all the parts but Im happy to help out with any question you have! if youve never built a battery pack before, this might be a bit ambitious but I think you can do it if you take your time following the video
IF you put nickel (nickel plated steel if absolutely necessary for the higher resistance) on top of the copper the Kweld might have enough power (you'd probably have to step down to 0.20mm copper or a bit thinner). A lot of people have used thisi "nickel copper sandwich" idea to spot weld copper. I've heard some people say that you want the copper to be directly on the cell terminals otherwise the nickel is bottlenecking the current as it tries to flow to the copper. Makes sense but I'm not sure. How are the 30Q's holding up? I guess its possible by now if you used the pack a lot it could be retired? I've heard a lot of complaints about 30Q's having crazy self discharge rates amongst other odd behaviors. One guy, I think on the budget light forum, was doing cycling tests of various cells and his 30Q samples suddenly started self discharging early in the test and I'm talking 400 millivolts a day or more.
This pack is still holding up well after a few years moderate but consistent use with pretty aggressive riding. The only issue is that one cell group has been consistently lower than the rest - probably due to randomly higher internal resistance, which has increased wear over time. I added an active balancer to keep the pack balanced and its been going strong since
@@GaiusGarage active balancers are a godsend to the community. No more manually balancing groups or having to hook it up to a hobby charger. I'm not surprised your pack is still going strong. This build is one of the cleanest I've seen on RUclips. I know we always harp about not soldering on the cells but your use of flux made your work pretty quick and your solder areas look incredibly clean.
@@ericklein5097 Thank you! Yeah soldering on cells isn't really an issue as long as it's done with very high heat and quickly, as opposed to having to go in over & over because your soldering iron isn't hot enough
With 21700's available for Ebike battery packs does it make better sense to do a 20S 8P now? Say at 5100mAh & 3.7V/21700 Cell? Or is it that batteries & BMS using 18650's are still way cheaper these days? Is there any weight savings moving up to 21700's for Ebikes with less parallel rows of cells needed in a pack?
@@anonymouscommentator yeah but it's really a constrain around cost of Li-ion batteries - at $3 a pieces, 280 cells needed for this pack is $840. if you can find discounted rates, or source cheaper cells, the cost goes down significantly
So, my 60 volt e-bike and its battery got stolen a couple weeks back, and the other day the police returned it and the battery. Now, rather than charging up to a maximum of 70.3 volts, the BMS is saying that the battery is only a 48 volt battery. Did the thieves give the police the wrong battery, or is the BMS acting up? Not only did the battery come back out of its wrapper, but when I completely unwrapped the battery I noticed that four cells were removed from one end of it. The thieves may have removed the four missing cells, or the battery may have simply came that way from the factory. Not sure
I would love to build a battery pack to cover the whole height and length of my ruff cycles smyinz but for now I got a triangle bag for a 52v 21a.h 1500w battery to a 72v 3000w hub motor . But like I said would love to build one that fit the whole frame with as many a.h's as possible
@@kaliraah no not yet I'm waiting on a refund from junstar first then I might get one . But never buy a kit from junstar I had a bbso2 for 6months and battery pack that just went one after the other
How can this battery be utilized as to what i/o needs to be connected to get a 3 prong 110v outlet to power on a microwave, phone, smartphones, tablets, and a solar panel for charging this battery pack...etc... mainly I'm thinkin off grid R.V.
you wouldn't use a battery pack like this for off-grid because the voltage is too high and it was designed for high current draw, which you typically wouldn't need for off-grid. you'll have trouble finding components and will have alot of losses in efficiency. generally off-grid systems use 12V, 24V, or 48V battery systems. youll need an inverter to get AC power from a DC battery like this
*Will Smith Voice
YAAHHH. THAT'S HOTT. That's hott.
Wow! This was an extremely helpful video! Great find! Thanks for making the vid!
Sandwiching the copper plate with another piece of nickel or steel works well.
This shits fascinating. Alien technology %100 no doubt .
Serious pack build Hands down the best video on the topic. Great method for durable bonding and agree with the copper buss and soldering technique you employ. Hard to get the Samsung 30Q 3000mAh Got to choose from what isn't sold out. And as with everything post pandemic they are more than before. Certainly in Aug 2023 you are looking at ~$900 USD for 84V 20A alone.
I would buy an 84v 23S 10P pack off the shelf but it is a fools game. No BMS and no idea as to brand of 18650. I have to give serious thought to replacing the lead acid batts in my Damak Eagle
21k peak power would probably ignite my Vsett motors in flames like Ghost Rider. 😋
Lite Em UP!
This is 3 years ago. Can one still buy 18650 li-ion batteries?
only 3 minutes in , it's obvious how mucht thought and precausion has gone into the assembly. very nice watch, thanks .
thanks so much!
Best part of this project is the cool OG red shop rag on the workbench. Well done, sir...
How did you hook the main negative and positive discharge wires to the pack
nice job! Where did you got those Copper plates and what are they used for in real life? Thank you :-)
Insane battery!! Looking forward to a video about the ebike!
I’m curious as to how this is a 220A max cont pack when 14 cells in parallel is 210A which each cell having a max cont of 15A , 15A x 14 in parallel is 210A and how does that then have 300A peak discharge can someone elaborate?
Can you make another vid of your bike. Thanks
Now for the hard part, mounting the 72v 42Ah battery.
what batteries are beter for scooter 18650 or pouch cell of ncm 72v55ah
Nice job building that pack. Now show us what type of bike that beast is being mounted onto!
Thanks! link to ebike using this pack is in the description
Great build
Thanks for your Video very informative . Life Cycle of samsung 30Q is 250 cycles at 22A any battery with more Cycles
large capacity, high discharge current rate lithium polymer pouch cells or lithium graphene cells
I want to build a 24 V -500 Watt battery, for a stroller for a child with locomotor handicap. I don't know how to assemble them, nor how many batteries I need, if you have a sketch, a technical drawing please. thank you very much
I can definitely help design this battery pack and provide some technical drawing. please feel free to book a session on my calendy
calendly.com/gaiusgarage/30-min-consult
Hi mate great video I am looking to build the 20s battry but with only 6p I got 120 Samsung 40t, 21700 cells my controller is sabvoton 100a and I think 6p is good enough for my need now I need help with battry configuration is there any advice or software by the way my frame is stealth Bomber same as yours
I am doing the same in a stealth bomber. I have 200 iam trying to do 20s10p. I am waiting on the battery cells to arrive this week. I feel like this 4 module rectangle should fit. With less sells it should fit easy and with a big control inside.
Are the multiple wires from the bms on both positive and negative just to spread the amps over 4 wires ? Is it best to solder them like you did in different places along the mains pos and neg area of the 72v battery or does it not matter ?
@@cajab7407 yeah it's just to distribute the amps over several smaller wires vs. using a very think wire - generally you would do this to make it more flexible and easier to solder. if you have the option it's better to spread out where they're soldered
Hi,
Did wraping the battery in hear restant foam cause any heating or overheating or slow cooling issues? I want to wrap the battery i am building in foam as well for decrease vibration but am hesitant about overheating issues.
Great built.
No, I never had any issues with overheating. heat is not really an issue unless you're really pushing a battery pack to it's limits. in this case, I would only run it at max discharge for short periods of time (when accelerating hard) but most of the time the demand was much more moderate. so overheating was not an issue even when wrapped and placed somewhere with little airflow
How much would a battery like this go for?!
20X14 =280 batteries x ~ $4.75 per battery = 1,330.00 for the batteries and maybe 100.00 for the BMS and of course you need a spot welder + ~140.00 depending on which one you get. So 1,570.00 ish
How can i get in touch with ?? I need a 72v pack build sir plsee??? Im in Florida!!!
please book a project consult with me on Calendly. It's $25 but cost will be applied to your build if you decide to move forward. If I can't help, I will refund you the full amount.
calendly.com/gaiusgarage/15-minute-consult
hello I'm building a 20s 9p 90a do you think I need more than 1 .20 nickel strip
Excellent work. Very nice build.
I cant find the 220 continuos 300A max discharge BMS.
The ones available are 240A continuous but 550A max.
Im usisng 14P sony VTC6 cells so I have max 420A discharge.
Should I go for a lower continuos discharge? Let's say 170 continuous 425A..
Thank you.
you should size your BMS to the peak discharge of what your system will be running
@@GaiusGarage thank you
AmaZing detail. Answered a lot of my questions about large packs.
Know what ?? I will use a 550 watt soldering iron to solder the copper strips !! Fast job ! My original idea is to melt things to hell with this thing . Also , that you have said for 220 amps , that can easily output about 800amps if needed , or that is what I would let it do . Well if you think where the heck did I get the idea of doing destruction with this beast , have a look at the channel named : COLIN FURZE !!! He is an absolute beast !! This channel too is amazing ! Nice videos ! Keep it up ! Hope you get a sponsored soon !
Everything seems to be well thought of. However, the 8 AWG wire going into the EC8 connector threw me off. Isn't that gauge rated for maximum 45A? what am I missing?
that rating pertains mostly to residential wiring. you can run pretty much any current through any wire, with the factors being voltage drop, length of wire, time the current is applied. for short runs (pretty much anything on an ebike or battery pack) the voltage drop is miniscule even at 200A. if you look up what gauge wire is "rated" for 200A, I would have to use zero gauge, which would be ridiculous
@@GaiusGarage thanks for the thorough response. I appreciate it.
I have built a few packs in my time. This is a nice build.
Thank you!
How many amps would be this config......??Quick question, I just got a 72v battery pack 20s and believe is 6p, have 120 cells in it (liitokala 5000) but not sure how much amps really is as it doesn't have any labels.
Nice can we see the bike next
Looks good, but you could have used more cells at the same volume with a different design. How do you support it against mechanical impact?
With the prices of batteries, debating dipping my toes into trying to build a pack. I need a larger AH battery, the options are just too expensive though. Thank you for showing me the basics.
That was a great video I like the way you put the pack together
thank you!
those copper buss bars def are too overkill, they prob can do over 1000a. If anything goes wrong with that pack its bye bye
I have a 72v45 Ah with this samsung30Q for my atv yamaha warrior.
In my you tube channel..
THAT IS THE MOST SEXY BATTERY BANK IV EVER SEEN ! I don’t know what it is about 18650 batteries but there so dam nice looking when built up! Very nice build buddy. Loved ya video.
Thanks for sharing.
🌟SUBSCRIBED🌟
👍👍👍👍👍THUMBS UP👍👍👍👍👍
thank you so much, sir! 18650 are HOTTT 🔥🔥🔥
That thing is a beautiful monster. I'm sure it could power my whole house for a week.
I would like to attempt to build that exact same battery but at this moment in my life I would like to buy that battery is there any chance I could pay you to build one for me
@@KevinAndroff yes, I can do this. please message me on Instagram @gaiusgarage
Do you know where I can find this copper strip for series connection for 21700 cells?
not specifically, but Im sure you can find something on aliexpress
Nice build dud, you must post the size of that battery how much would one cost.
dimensions are 325 x 140 x 80 (mm)
Thats cool make me one 🙏
I have seen videos of rion and they use a custom made machine to spot weld copper directly into battery cells, like this wouldn't you be unable to ever swap cells if needed, rendering the entire battery useless if lets say there is a critical imbalance between cells or some cells get damaged... couldn't you use just the nickel strips?
At 25Kw, your going 4 Amps over the peak amperage per cell? Not a good idea!!
Li-on LG,CATL,POLIMER,SAMSUNG is good sir
Hello sír,I like tó make a consultation but paypal can't allow ME inside ,can we discuss I send you the Cost with other method if IT possible ,just help ME please im a delivery driver
Is graphene thermally conductive?
yes, very much so
I'm sure you heard about the sur ron X ! Did you think this battery can fit in the battery caps of the sur ron and it's possible to work with sur ron motor and bac 4000 Controlor ?
it would work with sur ron motor and bac4000 but there's no way this will fit in the battery compartment. maybe if it were arranged differently
I watched this whole damn video, and dont know anything he's saying, BUT I WANNA LEARN
Lovely stuff. I think I have the eBike for this. Do you know what it weighs by any chance?
Brilliant stuff, I'd have watched this if it was normal speed the whole build. If possible, could you release an unedited build showing every moment, like you did here but without speeding up or doing cuts. Either way this was the best battery video for powerful ebikes I've found from months of looking
thank you! I actually don't have the raw footage anymore but even if I did it would be hours of footage. is there anything you wanted to see more closely in particular?
@@GaiusGarage oh belive me I know it would be hours haha and it was more interest toward the techniques used throughout the process, this video covers everything in wonderful detail, I was just thinking if you're doing the battery build anyways filming the workspace even without talking much would show the nuance detail. Again this video is easily great enough for using as a building manual. I just really enjoyed this build and if a future one is ridiculously long I would just watch it in sittings a few times over before going about building my own powerful battery. Just something to throw out there if you were looking for any ideas. All the best mate 👍
@@GaiusGarage hello big brother im live in turkey can you gift me another litle battery please?
@@memcan5602 😂
@@Anees- our money is worthless
Can an escooter's controller use 14s6p 52v 20ah battery when original battery is 48v 20ah 13s6p battery? Or must series and parallels be same or something?
only the voltage is important. 13s & 14s is close enough that it should work without issues. but you should check the specs on the controller to make sure you're not exceeding the max operating voltage. Keep in mind 14s fully charged is 58.8V so if the controller can handle ~60V you should be good
@@GaiusGarage thank you
Thumbs up. Do you remember how much the completed battery pack weighs? It looks like just the cells are close to 13.5 kg.
yeah its something like that. I dont remember exactly
Where do i learn all these stuff.
a lot good info on youtube - just watch a bunch of video and try to make something yourself. that's the best way
Really nice job and great battery pack, but I belive that you shouldn't trim bms balance wires, it introduces resistance difference in wires and could interfere with the bms readings
thank you! interesting thought on the balance wires - to my understanding the BMS is measuring the voltage potentials only from the balance wires, in which case the current (dependent upon resistance) wouldn't matter. but if the BMS performs some other functions that depends on measuring current in the balance wires with some high degree of precision, then their length might play a role
What are the dimensions about battery please ?
you must not divide the current carried by the number of cells because the nickel connecting them will see the entire load of all 14 cells put together in the group. now the load for each battery cell in the group will be divvied between them, but the nickel connecting them will see the entire load of all the cells in the group
Hi! Best video for a 72 V battery. Can you suggest me a good charger for it?
Thank you! The charger I use is custom made - just a 1500W power supply connected to a boost converter. This is the cheapest option to charge at >10A - chargers for sale at >10A tend to get in the hundreds of dollars. Here's an example of what I'm describing but at 100V (so current is lower). ruclips.net/video/tSj76sVALwg/видео.html
I got another question: I already finished my project and everything seems to work fine. I connected the battery to a 6kw QS motor. When the battery reaches 60% discharge while using it... suddenly the voltage goes to cero and the battery discharges empty.... so sad...@@GaiusGarage
@@romanominghi2990 not sure. maybe BMS is misconfigured - impossible to determine given the info provided. please feel free to book a consult and I can try and dig into the details
calendly.com/gaiusgarage/30-min-consult
The foam between layers of the pack is a bad idea.
You either want the cells to be in direct contact with each other so that heat from cells at the center of the pack can be conducted outward, or you want to have aiflow through the pack.
Having neither, you increase sag as the inner cells heat up.
How big is it?
How long does it take to recharge and was it worth it? I mean do you even use 10% off the battery in a day?
Ive used 100% in a day - but it takes a lot of riding at full throttle. 45 min to recharge at 25A but I usually charge at 10A to ensure longevity - so about 2 hours give or take
Absolutely superb in depth video.So well explained and filmed put. Like many here, I’d love to see this on the bike that its been made for and demonstrated 😊 👍
thanks so much! pic of the bike using this battery pack is in the comments - going to make a ride video soon!
@@GaiusGarage Looks great 👍 There’ll be a few people (including myself) glad to see that video.|I bet that machine really shifts 👍
ditto to the above comment by jonnyswlk4674, i canna say anything more, this is the best instructional video i ever saw, alas i don't understand much of it lol.
@@GaiusGarage Hi hello sir, may I allow to ask a question and please help reply with your expertise on ebike battery. Yesterday when I was paddle my ebike at home with the parking stand mount on the floor, for testing the ebike speed, then suddenly my mother was talking to me, instead of I need to press the hand brake to stop the spining ebike, I turned off the ignition key, THEN I heard a "pop" sound (the motorhub was still in high speed spinning) I don't know the "pop" sound was came from the battery or came from the controller. Sir, may I ask in most of the cases, let say, if a person paddle the ebike halfway through, when the battery still on going supplying the energy into the controller, and the controller still on going supplying the power into the motorhub, and the motorhub still drawing power spinning at fast speed, then he turn off the ignition key OUT OF SUDDEN to cut off the ON GOING power supply intake from the battery, in this case what will happen to my battery? Sir, please help me,
then I unpluged the ebike power plug from the battery, then I turn on the key ignition to purposely release the electric in the controller, then I plug the ebike power plug into the battery and heard a as usual spark sound.
My concern now is, how do I know I already wound, injury, or damage my battery or not sir. Hope you understand my question, trillion thanks if you would please reply sir.
@@GaiusGarage it's ok to charge from the main output connection on these batteries? my EUC battery has two pairs of smaller black and red wires coming out that don't indicate any voltage
Hi, I am a highschool student and for a fun project I decided to build an electric pit bike, as well as building a custom battery to fit the spacing required. I custom built a 52v 28.8ah (14s12p) battery with samsung cells and before I put the bms (50a 14s Daly BMS) on, I tested the pack with a voltmeter and it read around 58.6 volts, which was perfect. However, when I soldered the bms wires on, and put on the connector, it read 14.5 volts. That was around a month ago, and now when I test it the voltmeter reads around 9.5 volts. I checked all of the bms wires and they were fine, so I don’t understand how I am getting that voltage. I saw online that sometimes a BMS can be “asleep” and that you can wake it up by charging, so I tried that and it didn’t even charge. I am now feeling very frustrated and defeated, because everything went so well until the BMS part. Everything in terms of the nickel strips and batteries is good, but it is just something with the BMS. I wasn’t able to get a very good solder on the main positive wire, so that could be the issue. This is all for an electric pit bike project that I’m doing, and I just feel very defeated now, which is why I’m seeking external help. Sorry for the very long email, but this is just the problem that I am facing. Do you know a possible fix or any way I can contact you for you to provide further help. Thanks in advance.
I've also experienced this and haven't yet found a solution. I ended up using a different BMS, making sure to use flux and minimal heat when soldering the leads. I also had the balance wires unplugged when soldering the first BMS so I'm not sure if plugging them in and soldering the cells in order made a difference. My best guess is that a protection circuit has been triggered or one of the cells isn't being registered making the BMS shut down due to low voltage. I hope you find a solution.
I can help you debug over zoom - please feel free to book a 30 min session on my Calendy. you would need at least a multi-meter to do some testing. If I cant help I will refund the cost
calendly.com/gaiusgarage
@@NaTe4825 Oh ok thanks. I had the balance wires unplugged from the main connector when I did it so that’s possible to make a difference. I’m going to see if there are any wires without a strong connection or something. Thanks for the help and the wishes, I appreciate it
@@GaiusGarage Ok that sounds good. And for you refunding me if you don’t help, does that mean if you can’t help me get the battery working or just if you can’t help me at all. I have a multimeter. I do have a question about the multimeter if you know though. When I first read the voltage and it read 14.5, I decided to switch around to the different multimeter settings. On of them, which reads uA (macro amps) I got a reading of 54.6. Do you know how I could have gotten an amp rating out of it?
How much did it cost to make this battery?
somewhere around $1k
@@GaiusGarage bro can I text you in some way? I have some questions , i have telsa 4890mah batterys atm
@@yentldenys7622 just hmu on Instagram @emot.os
No license has ruined my life !!! Help me live free and I'll help others . SOS
I'm buying a year old Daymak EM2 today.I want to convert to lithium from lead acid.Videos like this are helpful.Thanx🇨🇦
I think this would be perfect to extend the range of my Evo3 a little 👍
You know its a big ass battery when you need a gas burner to solder, love it!
I heard solder and high current dont mix well because the solder can potentially heat up enough to liquify under high draw. Any thoughts on this?
Most common solder melts at around 200C - if your connections are heating up this much during use, you've got much bigger problems
As a future m. Eng. This. Is so. Fuckin. Cool. Good shit dude
How much would you charge for a battery like this set up for the 5000w electro & co razor bikr kits? Their batteries are 72v 10ah and cost around $1000. Which im sure is around the price you spent to build this much better battery.
yes, you are correct! About $1k to build this. Would probably charge $500 for labor. So total price would be whatever the cost of materials + $500 + shipping. Would only be able to ship within US
I’m interested in one your battery to buy
Nice build mate. I'm planning to build a pack 20s13p 72V using sony VTC6 cells. What is the final size of your battery pack?
thanks! dimensions are 325x140x80
ماهي كلفت هذه البطاره
If I use a 3kw motor, how much range should I get in full acceleration...like 90km/h?
the motor rating does not matter - you need the energy efficiency of the vehicle (W/km). If you dont know this, you can estimate from your motor controller. If the controller pulls 100A at full speed, and this battery is 42Ah, then you will get 42/100 = 0.42 hours of ride time or ~25 minutes. However far you get in 25 minutes, that's your range.
thanks man@@GaiusGarage
Could building my own pack be a fair amount cheaper. I see 72v pack going 600 hundred plus. Im wanting to build a ev scooter or something light and fast
probably wont be cheaper but the advantage of building your own is that you can design it for high discharge. the 72V packs they sell commonly have 150A max discharge, usually less. of you build your own you can design for whatever your needs are. but cost will be similar or even more depending on what you build. but most of the cost are the cells so if you can salvage some good cells for cheap, youre at a big advantage
Is it Androcell - Neurosomatic Circuit? :D
How much does that battery pack weigh? Looks too bulky and heavy for an ebike..
weighs around 40lbs. it's sized to fit a stealth bomber frame - definitely heavy & bulky
Awesome quality job mate. Would you be kind enough to share the overall dimensions and weight with me?
thanks! sure thing. dimensions 325 x 140 x 80 (mm) weight ~15kg
@@GaiusGarage awesome incredible job! Would you clarify something for me that 80 mm number seems too narrow because you have 7 batteries going one way and 8 the other.
@@samjohnson517 yes, actually you're right. I wrote those numbers down where and just copied them to answer above but it doesn't make sense. dimensions are 325 x 144 x 126
okay thank you very much I have the same frame as the bike you built this for so it should fit, I'm starting to order stuff from your links you inspired me. I'm here in the US if I chicken out and Ithink I may LOL I'll probably ask if I could ship the stuff to you.
@@samjohnson517 DM me on Instagram (link in description) not sure what I would charge to build if you send me all the parts but Im happy to help out with any question you have! if youve never built a battery pack before, this might be a bit ambitious but I think you can do it if you take your time following the video
You can build your own 🚀 t welder easy with transformer
I need one of these for my ReddyRD1 scooter that has a 60v 38ah battery
Do you also build batteries for selling? Id need a custom one for my folding bike.. if possible 52V
yes, I have - mostly in downtube cases but can do something custom. shoot me a message
@@GaiusGarage where can I contact you for battery sale?
@@Saravaproductions you can DM me on Instagram @emot.os
Can this battery pack fit a Surron? What is the dimensions?
dimensions are 325 x 144 x 126mm - would not fit a Surron
Luke tamblyn how do you tape your battery to your frame one so it doesnt move and two how do you make it look so good
Um...this pack is only 3024 watt hours. That's 3kwh how you getting 25kwh from this?
25kW not 25kWh
IF you put nickel (nickel plated steel if absolutely necessary for the higher resistance) on top of the copper the Kweld might have enough power (you'd probably have to step down to 0.20mm copper or a bit thinner). A lot of people have used thisi "nickel copper sandwich" idea to spot weld copper.
I've heard some people say that you want the copper to be directly on the cell terminals otherwise the nickel is bottlenecking the current as it tries to flow to the copper. Makes sense but I'm not sure.
How are the 30Q's holding up? I guess its possible by now if you used the pack a lot it could be retired? I've heard a lot of complaints about 30Q's having crazy self discharge rates amongst other odd behaviors. One guy, I think on the budget light forum, was doing cycling tests of various cells and his 30Q samples suddenly started self discharging early in the test and I'm talking 400 millivolts a day or more.
This pack is still holding up well after a few years moderate but consistent use with pretty aggressive riding. The only issue is that one cell group has been consistently lower than the rest - probably due to randomly higher internal resistance, which has increased wear over time. I added an active balancer to keep the pack balanced and its been going strong since
@@GaiusGarage active balancers are a godsend to the community. No more manually balancing groups or having to hook it up to a hobby charger.
I'm not surprised your pack is still going strong. This build is one of the cleanest I've seen on RUclips. I know we always harp about not soldering on the cells but your use of flux made your work pretty quick and your solder areas look incredibly clean.
@@ericklein5097 Thank you! Yeah soldering on cells isn't really an issue as long as it's done with very high heat and quickly, as opposed to having to go in over & over because your soldering iron isn't hot enough
nice! I learned a lot about safety!
Need a 72V 24A battery?
How much did all the materials cost in total?
With 21700's available for Ebike battery packs does it make better sense to do a 20S 8P now? Say at 5100mAh & 3.7V/21700 Cell? Or is it that batteries & BMS using 18650's are still way cheaper these days? Is there any weight savings moving up to 21700's for Ebikes with less parallel rows of cells needed in a pack?
it depends on the individual 18650s vs 21700s you're using - you just have to compare two cells types, their capacity, weight, & size
Very nicely done. It´s pleasure to watch.
thank you!
Great video! How much is the material cost approximately of such a thing?
about $1000 give of take
@@GaiusGarage thanks for the quick answer but oh lord thats a lot!
@@anonymouscommentator yeah but it's really a constrain around cost of Li-ion batteries - at $3 a pieces, 280 cells needed for this pack is $840. if you can find discounted rates, or source cheaper cells, the cost goes down significantly
So, my 60 volt e-bike and its battery got stolen a couple weeks back, and the other day the police returned it and the battery. Now, rather than charging up to a maximum of 70.3 volts, the BMS is saying that the battery is only a 48 volt battery. Did the thieves give the police the wrong battery, or is the BMS acting up? Not only did the battery come back out of its wrapper, but when I completely unwrapped the battery I noticed that four cells were removed from one end of it. The thieves may have removed the four missing cells, or the battery may have simply came that way from the factory. Not sure
I'd say it's more likely that they removed some cells - voltages match to to two missing cells (60 vs 48)
I would love to build a battery pack to cover the whole height and length of my ruff cycles smyinz but for now I got a triangle bag for a 52v 21a.h 1500w battery to a 72v 3000w hub motor . But like I said would love to build one that fit the whole frame with as many a.h's as possible
That’s what brought me to this video have you upgraded to a good 72v battery yet ? Share the link
@@kaliraah no not yet I'm waiting on a refund from junstar first then I might get one . But never buy a kit from junstar I had a bbso2 for 6months and battery pack that just went one after the other
Could i buy this directly from you??
❤️
I have been thinking about selling it - message me on instagram @emot.os
Do you make batteries for people, what’s cost
How many batteries were used?
20 in series, 14 in parallel. 280 total
How can this battery be utilized as to what i/o needs to be connected to get a 3 prong 110v outlet to power on a microwave, phone, smartphones, tablets, and a solar panel for charging this battery pack...etc... mainly I'm thinkin off grid R.V.
you wouldn't use a battery pack like this for off-grid because the voltage is too high and it was designed for high current draw, which you typically wouldn't need for off-grid. you'll have trouble finding components and will have alot of losses in efficiency. generally off-grid systems use 12V, 24V, or 48V battery systems. youll need an inverter to get AC power from a DC battery like this
Great but he is going to fast to explain everything.