This was such a clean build, literally everything was done to make it as perfect as possible..... Well Done man. I imagine this bike as having a very high resale value and you could ask a pretty penny for it and you would get it easily.... 😮🖤🖤
No he would not, custom made bikes have less assistance than those bought from manufacturers that all share the same parts then by buying it from randoms who put the cheapest parts to sell it for the highest price. That’s why many DONT buy custom made bikes and buy them from well known companies instead. Don’t tip ride for a RUclipsr.
I'm on my sixth build now, I'm still working with 350-750w motors and little 36-48v batteries. The biggest problem I have is sourcing parts on the cheap. I love watching these vids for inspiration and to see what I'm working toward. Thanks for the upload.
On my Hard tail MTB install running a 52 volt battery I am using a buck converter going from 60 to 12 volt at 30 amps max. I am running dual car horns which draw about 15 amps but there is a spike that happens when using the horns so I opted for a 30 amp converter and my horns work great now. Your installation is very clean!
Hey, Ich habe auch vor mir ein ebike zu bauen. Hast du die Teile auch aus China bestellt (vor allem den Motor) oder hast du Empfehlungen für Händler die hier aus Deutschland erreichbar sind?
@@Yuley ich hab bei Amazon bestellt. Bafang BbS01 b, Akku von -Halt dich fest- KAUFLAND. Akku hat etwa 200€ gekostet. 36 V, 13 ah. Ist gut für 60 km Reichweite mit 25 km/h
I really like the the way you fused the input and the output thats tell me that you are knowledgeable man .and that difently the right way to protect the wires from getting overload current.and the input from getting over charged ..very professional...I cant imaging big companies selling their e bikes without even an input fuse 😂 they dont have money for that but its really against the safety rules & the NEC code ..dc current can fry any thing alive is not a joke to deal with Dc
Such a clean inside. I wish I was better with electronics to make things like this and run additional LED’s.. I’m learning but very slowly. update: Ended up getting the Garmata seat with the stash box and I think I will mount my controller there. Who knows. I plan to finish my build within a year or so haha. Already burnt one motor by the phase cables getting ripped from the disc brake :( I will attempt a 3D printed cable holster that holds a washer against the swing arm to prevent any drag on both sides.. that was one thing I didn't see was how you ran your cable through the disc brake.
I just spec'd mine out with china.: 72v 8000w 40ah 100a controller, red frame, gold rims, headlights and brake lights, hydraulic brakes, 203mm 4 piston, zoom front and kke back suspension, motorcycle seat, alarm, color display, 19 inch turtle tires. 2100 delivered
The reason the display and the status LEDs are two different voltages is that the display uses its input voltage to show you the battery percentage and the status LEDs are generally connected through things like your headlight turn signals etc which will be 12 volts.
I know the bat straps should keep the bat from sliding forward and contacting the angled part of the frame, but I would put a bumper between the battery and the angled frame.
I would have put some tpu as isolation and suspension on the side walls of the aluminum plates that hold the battery pack. You can make it soft and squishy or hard rubber like depending on the infill percentage.
you can save money if you can soldier yourself ... and not buy cells... but new unused smaller packs. ...Say 36v or 48v packs nobody is buying as much as everyone wants the best fastest highest current draw stuff
If you can pick off a lower voltage - or use an additional very small dc-dc convertor - you could use a SSR instead of the contactor. Contactors do still wear out the contactor points over time, in addition to generating heat. They are a lot cheaper now too. I've seen several with 100a output for under $20.
Dude I hope you have a shop or a brand? This was amazing to watch. You got the e transportation world locked down! Enjoy the $ my friend you deserve it. Friggin awesome!
I made my own bike whit alibaba frame and 1500w rearhubmotor kit. It had 52v lfp batterys, but it was way simpler than yours. I'm amazed how complicadet and dificult it is to make high power ebike like yours. Thanks for the good video man. I had wery similar frame, but only wires was controller plus and minus, motor connections whit hall sensors, connection to display, throtle and that was it. I tuned it up to 3000w whit difternt conroller, but is was wery simple after all. I think I am only one using lfp batterys for ebike, but they worked wery nice giving all the power all the way even battery was low.
nice job ,you still have way more you can get out of that controllers and set up ,if you got the unlocked version like i did ,you can get insane speeds im using a customised crystalyte HS4065 RD motor with statorade and heat sinks ,and can quite often see the dc amps hitting 300 plus amps with phase amp sinto the 600s ,but im using a 20sx20p battery with 82 volt pack of supa capacitors in parallel ,to eliminate any V drop,
it took along time to get mine wired and installed though because i have svmc72150 on the rear and svmc7245 on the front with a 750 watt bafang internally gear hub motor ,that has a launch timer on the front motor .i also had to use a cycle analyst inside and raspberry pie that runs android main dash and secondry 5inch touch screen in top of the frame ,i get all the data from bms and 2 sabvotons and CA via a CAN bus sheild to the pie and bought a bunch of can nodes from ali express for few bucks each for all accessories and buttons etc
we also modified the rear swing arm and suspension to linkage type so can use way longer travel shock its no mounted up under the seat frame like an actual S bomber ,the battery has amazed me though its completely immersed in 3m novec dilectric fluid ,and they stay perfect temps ,dont even get warm even when charging at 50 amps,its expensive ,but worth it concidering its now fireproof
Audio studio engineer,and studio design.but i worked for a place called dick smith electronics while was at school and when first left school in their service deptment, i used to buuild and repair the diy electronics kits that people bought and couldnt finish or get working. But when it came to the bike i did alot of reasearch first ,and made a specific list of the functions i had to have ,and didnt deviate from thatmwhich made it alot easier
if you ever need circuit diagrams or designs ,or how to do something im always happy to help as im retired now, had to retired early when had a stroke cpl years ago,but im ok now ,but im not going back to work
Nice build. However, I will be using something other than aluminum shims around the battery. I try to eliminate as many conductive materials as I can around the high voltage.
Nice bike. You gotta be in Texas cause I am and that ride looks so familiar terrain. I have built 5 so far. Last two very similar to this one. Your's is WAY more engineered than mine are but they work and I ride everyday. Combined between the ones I still have and the ones I got tired of and sold I probably ridden over 5000 miles. My big one will do 56mph and that's some scary sh*t on back roads. ~45mph is my stable speed. mostly I just put around on the trails between 20-30.
Haha yeah the terrain is pretty unmistakable to those in the know. I've also put a ton of miles on this bike and had the same experience - 55+ is crazy, 45 is the sweet spot
I have 3/4 of my stealth bomber built and I need help finding correct everything for the front end. The shops in Florida won't help me because I didn't buy their bike from them. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. If not, your video helped me with a couple things I was unsure of.
FANTASTIC! I want to thank you for the electronics crash course in the beginning -- illustrating the function of the relay and how the positive and negative current factors in. I am a COMPLETE novice and do not understand electronics (actually fear it). But with that explanation, I am beginning to understand it a bit more, despite my previous failures. Do you teach electronics or something? Anyways, excellent job and presenting it so that an idiot (like me) can understand it. (smile)
Thanks! the variable regen is pretty simple - there is a connector for it on the controller harness which I show in the video. just connect any throttle there, and select "e-brake" in the app/software and that throttle will operate as variable regen
That’s a nice motorcycle, definitely not an ebike at that speed. Would recommend putting turn signals on it too. Crazy how that feature isn’t more common on ebikes.
its more of a motorbikle. Ive never actually used a turn signal on a motorcycle in earnest. prefer hand signals (pointing) if necessary or the best turn signal of all: acceleration
Just imagine! Rear swing arm isn't a fork but a single arm on which could be mounted a larger axel and hub for larger bearing. Also brake and motor can be mounted as well. Wheel would be separate coming off with 4 bolts for extreme ease. Also Box up area under seat to max to allow for storage or even charging system while increasing seat support.
It might be good to create a distance between the red connector and the grounds. After some years of shaking the plastic on the red connector might be damaged creating a short circuit.
Funny enough I have a similar setup in my SB ebike. We must think alike But the main reason i built one. Was for the pecharge system. Which is very important so you don't blow capacitors in controller. I don't think I seen one in your set-up.
Nice build. Awesome video really! Whats it like going uphills though? I heard another another guy saying his clone bomber aint so good at uphills ESPECIALLY from dead stop he can hear the hub motor struggling. He has a 72v 12000w
Thank you! Maybe an issue with motor programming or insufficient battery with the other guy but this bike rips uphill. In fact, I've have never found a grade that even makes a noticeable difference
I am running a 72v 5000w 5T motor and mine rips up hill at 45 mph, 50-55mph flat ground.. the other guy must have something wrong cause from dead stop up a hilll, I have mad torque.
I think it would be cool for this bike to have kind of a neutral "gear" when the regenerative braking is off, so you can coast a little bit without slowing down. The way I see it, it can be kind of like a middle position of the throttle: the normal position is the regen brake, in the middle is neutral (motor and regen brake are off), and when you turn the throttle further it engages the motor. Don't know if someone did it or if it's a good idea at all %)
@@GaiusGarage varibale regen is my most favorite feature ever since hydraulic brakes now when your rolling down a hill you can just ride the regen instead of burning brake pads id love someone like grinn technologies to make a version of there tripwire ebrake sensors that return a analogue value so you could use the reach adjust on hydro brakes to run regen so instead of having say a inch of play or deadzone on the brake levers before your hydros engage you could use that deadzone to activate the regen that way you pull lightly on the brakes and it engages the regen more pull is more regen then it moves to full regen just before the top of your brakes then if you need to stop in a hurry you can just pull hard and go straight through to your hydro brakes
Oh mate it’s pretty easy actually, the main way to make it possible is to use gaskets, pass throughs, silicone sealant along all the inside of the panels to ensure it’s sealed and on any holes that aren’t being used put in rubber stoppers with more silicone/rubber based sealant.
yo bro, pretty nice built and the love the electrical protection. Also gave me goosbumps wear some protection bruv...anyways what inch are those wheels? I'm making a cargo E-bike right now, that has a 29 inch rear wheel. But since the bike is heavy, I'm looking for more torque. Thanks and keep it up
Great VIdeos!! very informative! I searched through and didnt see this, did you ever get a final weight for it? (i did see that you sold it now) Curious how hard it was to pedal with how beefy it was.
For your wire connectors and your multi wire connectors they're so bulky you should look into the aircraft industry and the yachting or houseboat industry and you'll find what you're looking for there in a higher quality unit
Why didn't you fit the cover for the controller? Big time kudos for such an easy to follow step by step video but the exposed controller and wiring not only looks odd but unnecessarily exposes it to damage?
I haven't had time to read through all the comment but well done on your project it's very well thought out , I don't know if anybody but can you post a list of links of these items please , I have the same frame with the 200A 72v I'm wanting to set up , cheers and thanks again
@Gaius Garage Hello there mate. I am building a similar ebike, but that circuit board that you showed in the first part in that video is a bit confusing. Care to give a bit more detail? Me and a friend have been gazing on what you did there, and the more we tried to figure it out, the more questions appeared. First, we looked at the datasheet for those relays. It says that max switching voltage is 75V. Let's assume that I looked at a datasheet for a different relay than the one you have used, but care to provide a datasheet for yours? You ran 84V through that thing... how is it not smoking? Secondly, how is that key switch not caught on fire? Are you running the mains power through it? The full 84V? I didn't think these key switches could handle this much amperage, even ChatGPT agrees with me here: "The amperage through the ignition key switch is typically in the range of a few milliamperes (mA) to a few amperes (A). It is not uncommon for it to be around 5-10 amperes during the brief moment when the key is turned to the "Start" position to engage the starter relay. The actual high current required to crank the engine is drawn directly from the battery and flows through heavy-duty cables and the starter motor itself. This current can be in the range of 100-300 amperes, depending on the size and type of the engine." Can you update the description of the video and send a link to it. I wanna see what key switch you are using, although I feel like it's just a standard one. If you can, please make another video on how you make this board maybe? My electrician buddy was looking at this saying "that's sketchy, how is he not dead?" Thank you so much for the video. Please continue making more Electric moto vids in the future!
Yeah that relay shows 75V on the datasheet but is also indicates that the maximum working voltage for the coil is up to 130% of the rated voltage, which is about 93V. so 84V is not an issue, at least for the coil. overvolting these components isn't an exact science (I mean it is, but you don't always have to treat it like one) - some components that are more sensitive will burn right away but more often than not it will just lessen the lifespan of the component and you may have to replace the relay sooner rather than later. In terms of current through the key switch, that circuit is only used to power the relay.. it's the whole point of using relays, so you can control higher current circuits using something like a flimsy key switch. The relay draws 1.8W which, at ~80V, resolves to about 20mA. That's super low and not an issue at all for the key switch. Voltage doesn't matter (as long as it's below several hundred volts where arcing becomes an issue), only the current is relevant. I don't have a link to the key switch, it's just a generic one that came with the frame. I actually don't have this panel anymore because I sold it with the bike but I can help you put one together if you have questions. Just hmu on Instagram @gaiusgarage
Thank you! links to all the components are in the description. cost is anywhere between $2.5k - $4k largely depending on the battery pack and whether or not you build it yourself
I'm not sure you can register a bicycle as a motor vehicle but even though the top speed is ~60mph I wouldn't take this on the highway with traffic. other components like suspension and general geometry are just not designed to be stable at those speeds
Really nice work on this as well as the e-KLX.... Do you build battery cases with the plastic print machine? I would be interested in building a battery case as the case I bought is "mm's" too small. Think about renting the machine as UPS does except you know how to work the machine. I would send the case if you could print the additions/new size... really would not like to chop this thing up.. I think you can build the additions into the case... let me know... thanks!!
I may be able to help - sounds like you just need me to print some 3D models for you - but I would really need to understand the details better. Please book a Calendly session here: calendly.com/gaiusgarage/15-minute-consult its $25 but if I cant help, I will refund the cost
hey bro about the regen braking. Does the frame stop the motor axle from rocking back and forth when you brake then accelerate? or did you need to use a separate torque arm? love to know how that works. I did not notice how that worked for you in the video.
@@jaredlarson2810not much I would do differently here - maybe improve some of the pass throughs for better waterproofing but overall this is a really good return on effort
these are dirtbike/motorcycle wheels and tires so good for high speed. brakes are downhill MTB breaks which are also very capable but pads do need to be replaced more often
you are correct that actual electron flow is from negative to positive but the actual flow of electrons through the wire (called drift velocity) is actually quite slow, only less than 1mm/s. thus, electron flow is not the mechanism by which the actual transfer of energy occurs, rather it's via electromagnetic flux at the speed of light. so its a bit of a misconception to imagine that you must place the fuse "toward the source" of the electron flow, as if electrons are flowing like water in a pipe. there are several reasons why the fuse is placed on the positive side closest to the source. In AC circuits, the live wire is more dangerous than the neutral wire because the live wire is at a higher voltage relative to ground. If a fault occurs, you want the live wire to be disconnected. Placing the fuse on the live wire ensures this. A similar circumstance happens in DC circuit where the negative terminal is serves as a reference to ground. Placing a fuse on the negative side in such circuits could still leave the circuit's positive side live with respect to ground even if the fuse blows, which might pose a safety risk in certain scenarios.
@@GaiusGarage thank you for such a comprehensive explanation. So the flux in the fields would be why sections of the circuit further “down the line” but physically closer to the source would energize sooner than other sections in the order of the path of the circuit but physically further from the source? And if the fault happened in between these two places, would that be an example scenario where the positive end could still be live?
@@Kryso_0 yes, that is generally correct. all parts of the circuit energize pretty much instantaneously since energy flux travels at the speed of light. but recall voltage is a measure of electric potential difference between two points. you can measure any two points in space, regardless of whether they are part of a circuit or not, and if there is a difference in coulombs of charge, there will be some measurable voltage, no matter how small. this does not change if there is a fault in a circuit, the positive terminal will still have the same potential with respect to ground, whether or not the circuit is complete or broken. placing a fuse upstream of all the components in the circuit on the positive side will mean that, when the fuse blows, all components will be taken to ground and will have a 0V potential with respect to ground. In contrast, if the fuse is placed closest to the negative terminal, when it blows, all components will be taken to positive battery terminal and will still have the battery voltage potential, with respect to ground. in the former, a blown fuse means the system has no electric potential. in the latter, a blown fuse means the current flow is interrupted, but the voltage potential remains unchanged
Man I'm good with this kind of stuff, built many batteries and bikes, but this is complicated...I'd need some help with that..Nice job, that thing came out sweet...Won't have to use your mechanical, hydraulic brakes much...Watch out for dogs in that neighborhood, don't ask, I'm sure you can use your imagination...Lets just say I drive a lil slower through my neighborhood these days...
Just updated the link. Keep in mind there are several options for this motor, link does not point to any one particular option. Max power *input (motor does not output power, it converts power) is something like 20kW peak. This means you can pass 20kW the the motor for a second or two at a time without it overheating. Max continuous power is 3-5kW or so. You can add cooling or various sorts to improve performance
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This is one of the best E-Bike build I have seen on RUclips to date
much appreciated, sir!
@@GaiusGaragenice work I just got stealth bomber frame can’t wait to get mine done
This was such a clean build, literally everything was done to make it as perfect as possible..... Well Done man. I imagine this bike as having a very high resale value and you could ask a pretty penny for it and you would get it easily.... 😮🖤🖤
Much appreciated!
No he would not, custom made bikes have less assistance than those bought from manufacturers that all share the same parts then by buying it from randoms who put the cheapest parts to sell it for the highest price. That’s why many DONT buy custom made bikes and buy them from well known companies instead. Don’t tip ride for a RUclipsr.
I'm on my sixth build now, I'm still working with 350-750w motors and little 36-48v batteries. The biggest problem I have is sourcing parts on the cheap.
I love watching these vids for inspiration and to see what I'm working toward. Thanks for the upload.
On my Hard tail MTB install running a 52 volt battery I am using a buck converter going from 60 to 12 volt at 30 amps max. I am running dual car horns which draw about 15 amps but there is a spike that happens when using the horns so I opted for a 30 amp converter and my horns work great now. Your installation is very clean!
Beautiful Work Brother. I love it when someone takes the time to do these builds the right way. Thanks for sharing.
@@notfiveo No it is considered an electric moped and it would need to be registered depending on the state laws you live in.
Where u find beauty here? ugly box
I agree in gender, number and grade.
Thank you for taking the time to explain the electrics in detail, will have to re-watch to take it all in :)
Just re-watched this. Such a well done video! Thanks. So 8000w at 60mph, 2000w at 25mph.
Hello from Germany. This bike was nicely designed. I’m not into dirt bikes, but this is sweet. I ride an ebike also built by myself.
Thank you!
Hey, Ich habe auch vor mir ein ebike zu bauen. Hast du die Teile auch aus China bestellt (vor allem den Motor) oder hast du Empfehlungen für Händler die hier aus Deutschland erreichbar sind?
@@Yuley ich hab bei Amazon bestellt. Bafang BbS01 b, Akku von -Halt dich fest- KAUFLAND.
Akku hat etwa 200€ gekostet. 36 V, 13 ah. Ist gut für 60 km Reichweite mit 25 km/h
@@SimonatMac achso, ich suche da mehr nach etwas wie der Typ hier es hat. Wahrscheinlich 3000W motor mit 72V Batterie
@@Yuley Du kannst als S-Pedelec LEGAL bis 4000 Watt gehen ;-)
I love custom builds like this with all this attention to detail but i never have the patience to do all this build work.
Felt like I was having fun without even being there 😄cool man very cool
I really like the the way you fused the input and the output thats tell me that you are knowledgeable man .and that difently the right way to protect the wires from getting overload current.and the input from getting over charged ..very professional...I cant imaging big companies selling their e bikes without even an input fuse 😂 they dont have money for that but its really against the safety rules & the NEC code ..dc current can fry any thing alive is not a joke to deal with Dc
i would 100% buy this exact model. i just love how it looks. even just the frame and ill put the electronics in myself.
how much does it cost?
I almost wish I went to school for electronics instead of welding. You’re awesome man. Wish I could remember that much information.
I wish the frame welder went to your school
ruclips.net/video/b47ZyeSnslc/видео.html
Any halfway competent auto tech could replicate this and definitely should. What a killer simple circuit design and build, so sick 👌
Damn, son! That is some serious attention to detail!!
Excellent explanation of wiring up a high power ebike. saved for my future build. thank you!
my pleasure!
Such a clean inside. I wish I was better with electronics to make things like this and run additional LED’s.. I’m learning but very slowly.
update: Ended up getting the Garmata seat with the stash box and I think I will mount my controller there. Who knows. I plan to finish my build within a year or so haha. Already burnt one motor by the phase cables getting ripped from the disc brake :( I will attempt a 3D printed cable holster that holds a washer against the swing arm to prevent any drag on both sides.. that was one thing I didn't see was how you ran your cable through the disc brake.
I just spec'd mine out with china.:
72v 8000w 40ah 100a controller, red frame, gold rims, headlights and brake lights, hydraulic brakes, 203mm 4 piston, zoom front and kke back suspension, motorcycle seat, alarm, color display, 19 inch turtle tires.
2100 delivered
Was it legit, kinda scared of ordering one already built from China and how long did it take to come in?
Can you give me an ipdate
Those are all pieces of "cheap" crap😅
I’m about to offer an almost identical bike to this one for $2400 shipped! Almost finished with our first prototype bike now
@@Paint4freesend me a link I'll buy it right now
Watching this a year later this guy is so smart and consistent
Bro could you please update the link for the front for and the battery what a great vid BTW
The reason the display and the status LEDs are two different voltages is that the display uses its input voltage to show you the battery percentage and the status LEDs are generally connected through things like your headlight turn signals etc which will be 12 volts.
Love the bussbar setup top notch 🤟👽🚲🎬
very well engineered.. goodjob
I know the bat straps should keep the bat from sliding forward and contacting the angled part of the frame, but I would put a bumper between the battery and the angled frame.
I would have put some tpu as isolation and suspension on the side walls of the aluminum plates that hold the battery pack. You can make it soft and squishy or hard rubber like depending on the infill percentage.
Awesome set up! It'd be worth considering if batteries and motors weren't so ridiculously expensive.
Yep you might as well buy it they cost just as much to build so why bother
you can save money if you can soldier yourself ... and not buy cells... but new unused smaller packs. ...Say 36v or 48v packs nobody is buying as much as everyone wants the best fastest highest current draw stuff
Best electric bike video I’ve watched!
Thank you! I'm glad it was helpful
If you can pick off a lower voltage - or use an additional very small dc-dc convertor - you could use a SSR instead of the contactor.
Contactors do still wear out the contactor points over time, in addition to generating heat.
They are a lot cheaper now too. I've seen several with 100a output for under $20.
Dude I hope you have a shop or a brand? This was amazing to watch. You got the e transportation world locked down! Enjoy the $ my friend you deserve it. Friggin awesome!
Thank you! It's not the easiest to profit with all this but I'm working on it. Appreciate the support!
I made my own bike whit alibaba frame and 1500w rearhubmotor kit. It had 52v lfp batterys, but it was way simpler than yours. I'm amazed how complicadet and dificult it is to make high power ebike like yours. Thanks for the good video man. I had wery similar frame, but only wires was controller plus and minus, motor connections whit hall sensors, connection to display, throtle and that was it. I tuned it up to 3000w whit difternt conroller, but is was wery simple after all. I think I am only one using lfp batterys for ebike, but they worked wery nice giving all the power all the way even battery was low.
Exactly right, we could get in touch, I'm currently building my e-bike and need some input on your installation. Greetings lapin 👍
I wrote to you on Instagram.😊
nice job ,you still have way more you can get out of that controllers and set up ,if you got the unlocked version like i did ,you can get insane speeds im using a customised crystalyte HS4065 RD motor with statorade and heat sinks ,and can quite often see the dc amps hitting 300 plus amps with phase amp sinto the 600s ,but im using a 20sx20p battery with 82 volt pack of supa capacitors in parallel ,to eliminate any V drop,
it took along time to get mine wired and installed though because i have svmc72150 on the rear and svmc7245 on the front with a 750 watt bafang internally gear hub motor ,that has a launch timer on the front motor .i also had to use a cycle analyst inside and raspberry pie that runs android main dash and secondry 5inch touch screen in top of the frame ,i get all the data from bms and 2 sabvotons and CA via a CAN bus sheild to the pie and bought a bunch of can nodes from ali express for few bucks each for all accessories and buttons etc
we also modified the rear swing arm and suspension to linkage type so can use way longer travel shock its no mounted up under the seat frame like an actual S bomber ,the battery has amazed me though its completely immersed in 3m novec dilectric fluid ,and they stay perfect temps ,dont even get warm even when charging at 50 amps,its expensive ,but worth it concidering its now fireproof
Where do you learn how to do all of this? Are you an electrician?
Audio studio engineer,and studio design.but i worked for a place called dick smith electronics while was at school and when first left school in their service deptment, i used to buuild and repair the diy electronics kits that people bought and couldnt finish or get working. But when it came to the bike i did alot of reasearch first ,and made a specific list of the functions i had to have ,and didnt deviate from thatmwhich made it alot easier
if you ever need circuit diagrams or designs ,or how to do something im always happy to help as im retired now, had to retired early when had a stroke cpl years ago,but im ok now ,but im not going back to work
Nice build!
Nice build. However, I will be using something other than aluminum shims around the battery. I try to eliminate as many conductive materials as I can around the high voltage.
Nice bike. You gotta be in Texas cause I am and that ride looks so familiar terrain. I have built 5 so far. Last two very similar to this one. Your's is WAY more engineered than mine are but they work and I ride everyday. Combined between the ones I still have and the ones I got tired of and sold I probably ridden over 5000 miles. My big one will do 56mph and that's some scary sh*t on back roads. ~45mph is my stable speed. mostly I just put around on the trails between 20-30.
Haha yeah the terrain is pretty unmistakable to those in the know. I've also put a ton of miles on this bike and had the same experience - 55+ is crazy, 45 is the sweet spot
So we'll thought out. Thank you for showing the rest how it is done.
Now to copy yours. Imitation is the highest form of compliment
I have 3/4 of my stealth bomber built and I need help finding correct everything for the front end. The shops in Florida won't help me because I didn't buy their bike from them. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. If not, your video helped me with a couple things I was unsure of.
Reminds me of an old tv show with a highly modified attack motorcycle called streethawk I used to watch as a boy might be something you will like ...
FANTASTIC! I want to thank you for the electronics crash course in the beginning -- illustrating the function of the relay and how the positive and negative current factors in. I am a COMPLETE novice and do not understand electronics (actually fear it). But with that explanation, I am beginning to understand it a bit more, despite my previous failures. Do you teach electronics or something? Anyways, excellent job and presenting it so that an idiot (like me) can understand it. (smile)
Such a sick build
I'm Australian so
59mph= 94kph
Which is well pass anything i could legally ride on road
But i want one still!!!
Is that a steering neck welded to a press broke 18-20 gauge sheet metal box?! LOL
Seems structurally sound, Wow! Very cool. clean looking.
Great video!
Can you do one showing and explaining the variable regeneration on the second throttle?
If you covered it before, I missed it.
Thanks! the variable regen is pretty simple - there is a connector for it on the controller harness which I show in the video. just connect any throttle there, and select "e-brake" in the app/software and that throttle will operate as variable regen
@@GaiusGarage thank you
Best wiring I have seen. Clean. Why do you use a contactor? Where do I get the parts, the board?, the contactor?
I love it. I am Dutch so i seen many bikes and almost all of them are boring af.
I want 1 to
Thank you for sharing this great project.
That’s a nice motorcycle, definitely not an ebike at that speed. Would recommend putting turn signals on it too. Crazy how that feature isn’t more common on ebikes.
its more of a motorbikle. Ive never actually used a turn signal on a motorcycle in earnest. prefer hand signals (pointing) if necessary or the best turn signal of all: acceleration
@@GaiusGarage pretty much the reply I expected from someone going 55 in a residential area. Lol
@@Starr3712yeah well u cant expect much from someone doing 60 while wearing nothing but a ''crop top'' 😂
Just imagine! Rear swing arm isn't a fork but a single arm on which could be mounted a larger axel and hub for larger bearing. Also brake and motor can be mounted as well. Wheel would be separate coming off with 4 bolts for extreme ease. Also Box up area under seat to max to allow for storage or even charging system while increasing seat support.
beautiful repair on your road, in my country is barely visible wow i love merica.
what's the country with the worlds greatest road repair?
Fantastic video, thank you so much for the insights and know-how!
As always you are doing superb job man nice ebike I love that beautiful speedometer!!
much appreciated, sir!
This is so satisfying 🎉
It might be good to create a distance between the red connector and the grounds.
After some years of shaking the plastic on the red connector might be damaged creating a short circuit.
An in-line hydraulic pressure switch. Do internal (rear) brake line routing to hide the T-fitting and switch.
Very good presentation, keep up the good work.
Nice build you seem to be very good at this bro good job,💯👍👍⚡⚡⚡
Ok, Ok, you've earned my subscription!
Funny enough I have a similar setup in my SB ebike.
We must think alike
But the main reason i built one.
Was for the pecharge system.
Which is very important so you don't blow capacitors in controller.
I don't think I seen one in your set-up.
I like your setup
Nice build. Awesome video really! Whats it like going uphills though? I heard another another guy saying his clone bomber aint so good at uphills ESPECIALLY from dead stop he can hear the hub motor struggling. He has a 72v 12000w
Thank you! Maybe an issue with motor programming or insufficient battery with the other guy but this bike rips uphill. In fact, I've have never found a grade that even makes a noticeable difference
I am running a 72v 5000w 5T motor and mine rips up hill at 45 mph, 50-55mph flat ground.. the other guy must have something wrong cause from dead stop up a hilll, I have mad torque.
@@alexchavosaurus9041He's probably super obese 😅
Nice build. Very interesting to watch
Thank you!
I think it would be cool for this bike to have kind of a neutral "gear" when the regenerative braking is off, so you can coast a little bit without slowing down. The way I see it, it can be kind of like a middle position of the throttle: the normal position is the regen brake, in the middle is neutral (motor and regen brake are off), and when you turn the throttle further it engages the motor. Don't know if someone did it or if it's a good idea at all %)
The regen is actually variable and on a separate thumb throttle. So if the regen throttle is not engaged, the bike coasts without any regen
@@GaiusGarage varibale regen is my most favorite feature ever since hydraulic brakes
now when your rolling down a hill you can just ride the regen instead of burning brake pads
id love someone like grinn technologies to make a version of there tripwire ebrake sensors that return a analogue value so you could use the reach adjust on hydro brakes to run regen
so instead of having say a inch of play or deadzone on the brake levers before your hydros engage you could use that deadzone to activate the regen that way you pull lightly on the brakes and it engages the regen more pull is more regen then it moves to full regen just before the top of your brakes then if you need to stop in a hurry you can just pull hard and go straight through to your hydro brakes
Hope one day it's possible to build a weather proof version which can be used also in rain and snow.
its definitely possible with a bit more effort, I just didn't bother since I typically wouldn't be riding in those conditions
Oh mate it’s pretty easy actually, the main way to make it possible is to use gaskets, pass throughs, silicone sealant along all the inside of the panels to ensure it’s sealed and on any holes that aren’t being used put in rubber stoppers with more silicone/rubber based sealant.
Nice Elektro High Tech Bike. 😎
is there a wiring diagram somewhere or could you please share it?
yo bro, pretty nice built and the love the electrical protection. Also gave me goosbumps wear some protection bruv...anyways what inch are those wheels? I'm making a cargo E-bike right now, that has a 29 inch rear wheel. But since the bike is heavy, I'm looking for more torque. Thanks and keep it up
Ok you are smart man 🎉😢 that a good knowledge to know
thank you!
Nicely done.
Great VIdeos!! very informative! I searched through and didnt see this, did you ever get a final weight for it? (i did see that you sold it now) Curious how hard it was to pedal with how beefy it was.
Wow that turned out dope! What was the build cost
You should make a range test video?
For your wire connectors and your multi wire connectors they're so bulky you should look into the aircraft industry and the yachting or houseboat industry and you'll find what you're looking for there in a higher quality unit
very nice job!
Really helpful video, thanks man :)
Love how so many people say Stealth Bomber when there not :)
Why didn't you fit the cover for the controller? Big time kudos for such an easy to follow step by step video but the exposed controller and wiring not only looks odd but unnecessarily exposes it to damage?
I haven't had time to read through all the comment but well done on your project it's very well thought out , I don't know if anybody but can you post a list of links of these items please , I have the same frame with the 200A 72v I'm wanting to set up , cheers and thanks again
I have an 8000 w hub for that controller
Appreciate it! I have list to all the parts in the video description
@Gaius Garage Hello there mate. I am building a similar ebike, but that circuit board that you showed in the first part in that video is a bit confusing. Care to give a bit more detail?
Me and a friend have been gazing on what you did there, and the more we tried to figure it out, the more questions appeared.
First, we looked at the datasheet for those relays. It says that max switching voltage is 75V. Let's assume that I looked at a datasheet for a different relay than the one you have used, but care to provide a datasheet for yours? You ran 84V through that thing... how is it not smoking?
Secondly, how is that key switch not caught on fire? Are you running the mains power through it? The full 84V? I didn't think these key switches could handle this much amperage, even ChatGPT agrees with me here: "The amperage through the ignition key switch is typically in the range of a few milliamperes (mA) to a few amperes (A). It is not uncommon for it to be around 5-10 amperes during the brief moment when the key is turned to the "Start" position to engage the starter relay. The actual high current required to crank the engine is drawn directly from the battery and flows through heavy-duty cables and the starter motor itself. This current can be in the range of 100-300 amperes, depending on the size and type of the engine." Can you update the description of the video and send a link to it. I wanna see what key switch you are using, although I feel like it's just a standard one.
If you can, please make another video on how you make this board maybe? My electrician buddy was looking at this saying "that's sketchy, how is he not dead?"
Thank you so much for the video. Please continue making more Electric moto vids in the future!
Yeah that relay shows 75V on the datasheet but is also indicates that the maximum working voltage for the coil is up to 130% of the rated voltage, which is about 93V. so 84V is not an issue, at least for the coil. overvolting these components isn't an exact science (I mean it is, but you don't always have to treat it like one) - some components that are more sensitive will burn right away but more often than not it will just lessen the lifespan of the component and you may have to replace the relay sooner rather than later.
In terms of current through the key switch, that circuit is only used to power the relay.. it's the whole point of using relays, so you can control higher current circuits using something like a flimsy key switch. The relay draws 1.8W which, at ~80V, resolves to about 20mA. That's super low and not an issue at all for the key switch. Voltage doesn't matter (as long as it's below several hundred volts where arcing becomes an issue), only the current is relevant. I don't have a link to the key switch, it's just a generic one that came with the frame. I actually don't have this panel anymore because I sold it with the bike but I can help you put one together if you have questions. Just hmu on Instagram @gaiusgarage
range at different speeds? also battery specs, but maybe you made a video constructing the battery?
I didn't test range at different speeds, but the battery build video is here: ruclips.net/video/QMQYfk2RKtU/видео.htmlsi=tHroFKF4LDX80Kyz
Yes this thing is awesome I want one what would you say the total cost of this would be and were to get everything if you don't mind me asking
Thank you! links to all the components are in the description. cost is anywhere between $2.5k - $4k largely depending on the battery pack and whether or not you build it yourself
thats a nice looking bike, what brand and model is it?
Happy to give the 1,000th like! Cool video thanks for making it. Looked really fun to ride. Subscribed!
haha nice!! thanks so much!
Very cool!!!
Would you make and sell these am building 1 as well.and I love your setup
Wow! Will it need a licence plate for the highway?
I'm not sure you can register a bicycle as a motor vehicle but even though the top speed is ~60mph I wouldn't take this on the highway with traffic. other components like suspension and general geometry are just not designed to be stable at those speeds
Great. It seems though that some wires and connectiors are exposed to water from riding in the wet.
yeah.. not really a waterproof situation here. but only thing worse than wires getting wet, is riding this thing in the rain
Really nice work on this as well as the e-KLX.... Do you build battery cases with the plastic print machine? I would be interested in building a battery case as the case I bought is "mm's" too small. Think about renting the machine as UPS does except you know how to work the machine. I would send the case if you could print the additions/new size... really would not like to chop this thing up.. I think you can build the additions into the case... let me know... thanks!!
I may be able to help - sounds like you just need me to print some 3D models for you - but I would really need to understand the details better. Please book a Calendly session here: calendly.com/gaiusgarage/15-minute-consult its $25 but if I cant help, I will refund the cost
Superb build & excellent/informative video, what was the total cost of the build & how many hours did you put into it?
Thank you! I honestly dont remember the exact cost or especially the amount of time. Cost is probably somewhere around $3k
hey bro about the regen braking. Does the frame stop the motor axle from rocking back and forth when you brake then accelerate? or did you need to use a separate torque arm? love to know how that works. I did not notice how that worked for you in the video.
This bike had a lot of juice left after all the tests is there a mileage video coming? ty
Thanks! I sold this bike actually so no follow up video but the range was around 50mi
@@GaiusGarageDang, I was hoping for another lessons learned/follow up.
@@jaredlarson2810not much I would do differently here - maybe improve some of the pass throughs for better waterproofing but overall this is a really good return on effort
Awesome bro
Parts list please
Please check out the description
Total cost?
Hey, I have a question. I know this is quite an old video but I think I need some of your help.
Crazy build. What tires and brakes are you running? If those are off the shelf enduro bike parts I don’t think they’re built for braking at 60mph.
these are dirtbike/motorcycle wheels and tires so good for high speed. brakes are downhill MTB breaks which are also very capable but pads do need to be replaced more often
Very good job
thank you!
can you share a link for the bench power supply, thanks
shouldn't the fuse be first on the board on the black end of the circuit since, electrons flow from the negative?
you are correct that actual electron flow is from negative to positive but the actual flow of electrons through the wire (called drift velocity) is actually quite slow, only less than 1mm/s. thus, electron flow is not the mechanism by which the actual transfer of energy occurs, rather it's via electromagnetic flux at the speed of light. so its a bit of a misconception to imagine that you must place the fuse "toward the source" of the electron flow, as if electrons are flowing like water in a pipe. there are several reasons why the fuse is placed on the positive side closest to the source. In AC circuits, the live wire is more dangerous than the neutral wire because the live wire is at a higher voltage relative to ground. If a fault occurs, you want the live wire to be disconnected. Placing the fuse on the live wire ensures this. A similar circumstance happens in DC circuit where the negative terminal is serves as a reference to ground. Placing a fuse on the negative side in such circuits could still leave the circuit's positive side live with respect to ground even if the fuse blows, which might pose a safety risk in certain scenarios.
@@GaiusGarage thank you for such a comprehensive explanation. So the flux in the fields would be why sections of the circuit further “down the line” but physically closer to the source would energize sooner than other sections in the order of the path of the circuit but physically further from the source? And if the fault happened in between these two places, would that be an example scenario where the positive end could still be live?
@@Kryso_0 yes, that is generally correct. all parts of the circuit energize pretty much instantaneously since energy flux travels at the speed of light. but recall voltage is a measure of electric potential difference between two points. you can measure any two points in space, regardless of whether they are part of a circuit or not, and if there is a difference in coulombs of charge, there will be some measurable voltage, no matter how small. this does not change if there is a fault in a circuit, the positive terminal will still have the same potential with respect to ground, whether or not the circuit is complete or broken. placing a fuse upstream of all the components in the circuit on the positive side will mean that, when the fuse blows, all components will be taken to ground and will have a 0V potential with respect to ground. In contrast, if the fuse is placed closest to the negative terminal, when it blows, all components will be taken to positive battery terminal and will still have the battery voltage potential, with respect to ground. in the former, a blown fuse means the system has no electric potential. in the latter, a blown fuse means the current flow is interrupted, but the voltage potential remains unchanged
what did it full cost with battery and all?
Are you able to sell any of your wiring harnesses.
I'm about to purchase the same frame.
not really because it's not really a wiring harness that can be removed in one piece - its more adapted to the frame in segments
Man I'm good with this kind of stuff, built many batteries and bikes, but this is complicated...I'd need some help with that..Nice job, that thing came out sweet...Won't have to use your mechanical, hydraulic brakes much...Watch out for dogs in that neighborhood, don't ask, I'm sure you can use your imagination...Lets just say I drive a lil slower through my neighborhood these days...
Link to motor not working. What’s the max theoretical power output on that motor?
Just updated the link. Keep in mind there are several options for this motor, link does not point to any one particular option. Max power *input (motor does not output power, it converts power) is something like 20kW peak. This means you can pass 20kW the the motor for a second or two at a time without it overheating. Max continuous power is 3-5kW or so. You can add cooling or various sorts to improve performance