Ah thank you Simon, that’s very kind of you my friend.. quick question, are you thinking of going to the National Painting and Decorating Show, 22/23 November in Coventry?.. It’ll be great to meet as many people as I can💯👍😄
Just brilliant as always Pete and very timely as after the spare room I’ll be tackling the hall, stairs and landing as I work my way downstairs. Must have a look at those extractors. Keep up the great videos
Ah that’s great Steve, I appreciate the feedback.. hope you’re having plenty of success 👍 ..If you ever need any help or advice, about extractors or anything else, don’t hesitate to ask 👍👌👏😆
Hey Graham, thanks for your feedback.. Yeah, this one was actually a returning customer, which is always very nice.. The video is on here, it’s the “Amazing Result, Graco Ultra Handheld..” where I spray their new bathroom installation 😆.. Hope you’re keeping well my friend 💯 Regards Pete 🎨
Super video and great comment section. I have a Wagner Control 250 and an XVLP3500 and am getting used to them - totally different process to brush and roller! Got a big HSL to start tomorrow after a drawn out extension build and loads of prep - ready to paint! Just hope I can get it all done in a week - it's massive!!
Hello my friend, thank you so much for the kind feedback.. yeah it’s all certainly a learning curve, even a different order of doing things Vs a brush / roller.. very rewarding though, the superior finish and potentially quicker (once you master the process 😊).. this later HSL video might help.. HVLP Spraying a Staircase and Airless Spraying Interior Walls ruclips.net/video/lkGZCVcP6l0/видео.html Good luck next week, I’m sure all will go absolutely fine and on schedule.. keep in touch, happy to help and advise if I can and let me know how it goes.. regards Pete 🙏
@@PaintHQ Cheers Pete - spent the day masking - following your technique. Going to try Dulux Quick Drying Satinwood through the Wagner XVLP 3500 after priming bare wood with Bullseye Plus ( some of the bare wood is pitch pine which will bleed through lesser primers.) Clients have been having an extension built for 12 months now so I’ve been asked just to get it done as quick as possible… no frills.. Here’s a quick look at the masking - I didn’t get the top landing done, too many bits of snagging/caulking/2-pac etc but will get some paint in tomorrow. Am considering doing the walls with a brush and roller - if I have time this week, as I’m not convinced it’s any quicker to spray them - especially as the ceilings were done already. Really appreciate your feedback - hope Monday has been kind to you. ruclips.net/video/EloxwjjbHZo/видео.html
Thank you for watching Steven.. You’re a diamond my friend.. feel free to reach out to me if you need any help or advice, I’ll always do my best.. regards Pete 🎨💯
Thats bang on mate, we do a lot of spraying. Thats a tight area you ve done, and made it look easy. Never used tikkurilla through a sprayer, got to try it. 👍
Really appreciate the kind words of support my friend.. please subscribe if you can, it’ll be great to hear your spraying knowledge and get your input in future.. Regards Pete 👍
..Just meant to add.. Tikkurila, especially the Anti Reflex 2 for ceilings, sprays great.. dries ultra flat matt.. I spray all ceilings with Tikkurila AR2 👌👍😆
How long did that take to spray out..get rid of the paper masking on the frames run tape round stick on the plastic masking cut down middle the wrap it around to the other side.
You're the master of masking bro and of course that means everything when spraying Seems most of your videos are what I call high end paint jobs Would you consider doing a video on low end paint job on a budget (Rental Properties) Out here in California we call low end paint jobs (Summer rental paint job) Ha Ha Material and time are a key factor on those jobs I love to spray but feel like I'm losing money on the low budget paint jobs Anyways great videos bro your killing it
Hey Tim, that’s very kind of you to say my friend.. That’s a very good idea for a future video.. as soon as the opportunity arises, I’ll see what I can put together.. We face the same type of scenario here in the UK.. A rental is difficult to price, when we care about the quality and finish like you and I do, that takes time.. Then we’re competing with those that are prepared to do it cheaper, without our level of care and attention.. Hope that makes sense 😆 ..It really is great to hear from you in California, I’d love to hear more in future, how painting / decorating and spraying works in the US... thanks again for you input, I really appreciate the support.. Will most definitely note your request and see what I can put together.. Regards Pete 🇺🇸❤️💯
Gracias hermano .. La pintura Tikkurila se compra en el Reino Unido .. ¿Estás en los Estados Unidos? Perdón si no te he entendido .. quiero ayudarte mi amigo
Overall timing question: Hi Pete, I’m in the midst of a trim, walls and ceiling job which, thanks to your postings, I’m hoping to spray all of it and get most of the paint where it’s intended! I’m using Tikkurila throughout (AKVA, Helmi, Optiva Matt 5, AR2). This is my first time out with these products. Following your lead I started with the AKVA. I hoped to get this on followed by at least one coat of Helmi once it had dried. Then I read the AKVA instructions; “Wait 5 hours before topcoat”. It was late in the day so I thought OK, tomorrow I’ll get the two Helmi topcoats on - at this point I read the Helmi instructions; “Leave 16 hours between coats”! Help! I figured that you mask off the trim the day after you paint it, then coat the walls and, in turn, mask this the following day to do the ceilings. Once sprayed you de-mask and leave. So I though prep for, say, two days, then prime and 2 topcoat trim on day three, mask off trim and spray walls on day four, finally mask walls and spray ceilings on day five. With Tikkurila drying times it would add two days to the job. Am I going wrong? Any guidance would be most gratefully received. With best wishes, Rob
Hey Rob, this is great news.. Everything I’ve read here, the product choice, your plan / order, is all spot on 👌👍 ..you’re right to check the PDS (Product Data Sheet), but in reality, what we do is push the drying times.. so in your plan.. 2 top coats of Helmi in the one day is very much achievable.. each coat will be dry, even if you unfortunately got a run (it happens), it will be dry enough in one day to sand off and coat again.. then yeah mask off the woodwork next day, walls can be sprayed, then next day mask off the walls for the ceiling.. HSL are one of the bigger decoration jobs and can be daunting to spray, but this is where with a bit of planning spraying makes it easier.. especially the ability to spray from the floor high walls / ceilings.. the only use of a ladder Is the masking for the ceiling.. if all goes well you should be able to pull the masking to reveal the ceiling from the floor 😆 Big well done my friend 💯 any further questions or ‘problems’ let me know.. it’ll be great to hear how it all goes.. so far you’re doing great 👌👏👍💯
@@PaintHQ Hi Pete, You’re a gem! Thank you so much for all your advice and encouragement. So am I right in thinking you would try to get the AKVA primer on at the end of your prep time so it’s ready for Helmi the next day? Many thanks and best wishes, Rob P.S. I managed to get the AKVA though the Graco at level 7!
You’re very welcome, anytime.. yeah you’re right 👍 Sometimes depending on amount of prep, I’d spend a full day or 2.. then I’d spray primer the next day first thing, followed by the 1st top coat ..Good spraying that, it’s very satisfying.. excellent adhesion primer too 💯
@@PaintHQ Many many thanks. Just to be clear, if you spray the primer first thing, followed by 1st top coat at, say, lunchtime, do you manage to get a 2nd second top coat on the same day? I.e. so you can spray the walls the next day. Thanks again and best wishes, Rob
Yeah it is possible, I’ve achieved that before.. an early start, and as long as each cost dries nicely, you could get the woodwork all coated to a finish.. ready for masking off the next day.. just depends on size, customer, ie perhaps you have the luxury of a later finish.. I know it’s not PDS ‘textbook’ but you can push the boundaries 😆
Hey buddy.. yeah sure, sounds good to me 👌👍 ..Always great to hear from you guys in the US 💯🇺🇸❤️ ..At your convenience, let me know what method you would prefer me to DM you.. regards Pete 😆
Thank you my friend, appreciate the feedback.. it’s not essential, just handy to have if spraying a lot of woodwork / joinery / doors etc.. if you’re not using one, just open a window somewhere at the far end of the project and open a front or beck door, basically to create a draw of air.. also have a break in the middle of doing a lot of spraying, to let the dust / dry fall settle and clean up, otherwise this dust can kick up onto your sprayed work and create a rough finish.. so yeah, the extractors are not essential, but they do help ‘clean the air’.. hope that makes sense.. regards Pete
Hey James, thank you my friend.. yeah I know what you mean.. a lot less labour intensive spraying Vs manual brush and roller.. a lot less up and down the ladder and manually can be tricky stretching to cut in with a brush.. it’s easier to spray from the ground, when masking the walls, you can find your line and ‘push’ the tape along.. then once the ceiling is sprayed the masking should come down without the ladder.. sorry I’m waffling on.. Hope you’re still having plenty of success my friend.. one last thing, are you planning to go the National Painting and Decorating show in November ?.. it’ll be good to catch up 👍👌👏💯
@@PaintHQ yeah mate i booked my tickets and definitely plan on going! That would be ace man! Nah you aint waffling bud, i appreciate the tips man, i got a 3 story hsl to do at some point in the next few months and i was sorta dreading it, but you always come out with a perfect vid 😄 thanks dude! Just finished up a house of pvc windows today, absolutely sweltering dude, but glad to get it done! Lots of spraying coming up next few weeks, and lots of varied stuff too! Gotta love it man. 💨🤙💯
Hi only just found your videos so playing catch up , great to see someone spraying in tight spaces as opposed to large empty spaces , the helmi 80 looked to have a good sheen I’ve never sprayed it I tend to use the 30 satin but have a job coming that requires gloss so will give it a try , thanks for taking the time to make these videos all the best Roger
Hi Roger, appreciate you checking out the channel and your kind words of support.. Yeah I’ve turned to Helmi 80 when requiring that traditional gloss finish.. A more recent product by Teknos has caught my eye.. Teknos Futura Aqua 90, I’ve tried their eggshell and satin finishes, they’re quality products.. I don’t tend to like swapping and changing products, but I do like what Tikkurila, Teknos, Caparol, BM offer the waterborne decorative coatings market and for those that have embraced spraying.. so yeah, for me on a future job requiring high gloss I’m going to try Teknos “90”, I’ve heard excellent reports and I’ve seen a sample sprayed.. looked like the high shine you get on kitchen cabinet doors 👌👍 ..Great to have you contributing to the channel, keep in touch, I’ll be interested to hear about your future projects or feel free if you need any help or advice.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@STUMANFOO99 Hello my friend.. Yeah, I was very impressed by the results - here’s the video Spraying Oil Based Vs Water Based Paint. HVLP Vs Airless Spraying ruclips.net/video/RXIb8hOmjFU/видео.html Regards Pete 🙏💙💯
A question wen you masking up the walls to paint ceilings do you leave the purple tape 1/16 of the inch lower or do you stick the tape all the way to the ceiling thanks
Hey Lauro, good question buddy.. I mask right up to the ceiling line (cut line).. I believe it’s common practice in other countries to mask or produce a cut line a little lower (1/16 as you say) 😆 ..but yeah I’m masking right up to the ceiling.. give it a try, use a purple sensitive tape first, you get the straightest, awesome cut line 💯 ..hope this helps, keep in touch.. regards Pete
Hey buddy.. no not at all, as a precaution sometimes I’ll give it a quick scuff with sandpaper, but either way it’s never been a problem.. I do have some footage that demos this, I’ll put something together one day 👍 ..thanks for your question, keep in touch.. regards Pete
Do you take the tapes off while wet or dry ? How do the cutting in edges look as opposed to brush ? I have a graco gx21 but hardly use it and was wondering if it’s worth while on jobs like you’ve just showed. Thanks for any info
Hi Ian, thanks for your question.. yeah I remove masking whilst wet, it avoids any risk of bridging 👍 ..a masked line that’s sprayed is mind blowing, whilst I respect the ability to use a brush, when you take down the tape after spraying you do notice a difference 👏👏👏 ..the GX21 is a great unit, go for it my friend 🙏 I’m happy to help and advise if I can.. keep in touch.. regards Pete
Quality work there Pete 👍🏽 you say a drop of water to ease it out how much exactly? I've got a 390 at the moment and I add 5-10% just to get rid of the tailing in the fan pattern otherwise I seem to lose the tails unthinned at around 1800 - 2000 psi and I know that's quite high for fflp tips. I usually spray haftprimer and PU satin but used otex and helmi before too with similar problems.
Hey buddy, thank you for the kind words of support.. you’re exactly spot on with your thinking, and what you’re wanting to do just to bring the pressure down a bit.. To answer, I’d say 5% (could actually be less).. in the hopper, I add a splash.. give it a good stir, it’s surprising how much of a difference it makes.. well done my friend, sounds to me you’re doing great.. nice machine too, the 390 👌👍😆 ..regards Pete
@@PaintHQ that's what I'm thinking as well, practice and more practice. I do have the hopper 👍🏽 makes cleaning it out so much easier. At the moment I have the hopper, 3/16" hose and the pc contractor gun as my woodwork set up. What hose do you run?
That’s great.. awesome setup my friend.. I have a 7.5m 3/16”, with a 1.4” 1/8” whip ..it’s surprising how far you can reach with a 7.5m, so much more manageable.. I just couple / add another 7.5m 3/16” line for bigger projects 👍
Albany Durable Matt is a fraction of a sheen (making it wipeable) but still in the matt range.. certainly not silk.. it’s a lovely finish, I rate the product.. typically I prefer to mask off and spray Tikkurila Anti Reflex or Teknos Teknoceiling on the ceiling, for that dead flat look.. but you world get away with Albany going all over, if you don’t have critical light shining through👍 ..keep in touch, regards Pete
Excellent video and great to watch. I'm just starting my spraying journey and Just wondering what your go to tape is and if you ever get any paint pull?
Hi Lisa, sorry I haven’t responded sooner, for some reason this comment has only just become visible to me.. to answer your question, my go to tapes are Deltec.. I use Purple delicate surface tape on fresh emulsion, and Deltec Gold on trim / woodwork (that I typically have sprayed the day before).. both these tapes perform excellent for me.. only tine I may get sone paint pull on emulsion, is if historic paint jobs (that was out of my control), and fresh plaster wasn’t primed / mist coated.. the previous emulsion wouldn’t have adhered well.. then the emulsion I’ve sprayed could pull in places.. hope this helps and you’re having success on your spraying journey.. happy to help if I’m able to.. keep in touch, I’d always respond 👍.. regards Pete 🎨💯
Hey buddy.. thanks for your question - I’m pulling the trigger in fast succession to direct shots of paint in two tight masked areas of wall.. it’s a small gap between two runs of architrave / trim around two door frames 😄👍 all the best my friend.. regards Pete 💙💯
Hey buddy, great question.. no, I don’t look to thin trim / woodwork paints.. that’s an advantage of airless spraying (over HVLP), with the right tip selection and pressure to atomise the paint, you shouldn’t need to thin 👍 ..thanks for watching, keep in touch 🙏 regards Pete
More inspiration cheers Pete. Just wondering when doing tall walls do you trigger off and back on at the mid section or keep your trigger on and just reverse the stroke really quick? Cheers
Hi Richard, appreciate the support buddy.. that’s a very good question 👍 ..I always trigger off and on, to be honest I always look to trigger off and on in pretty much all circumstances.. bit like using a roller, work in sections and it will all knit together 😆 ..HSL’s are great examples where spraying is easier that brush / roller.. the need to work off a ladder is greatly reduced.. I’ve got another HSL video coming soon 👌👍😆 ..All the best, keep in touch.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Thanks Pete, I'm having my first go on a bathroom ceiling today so see how that goes. I've also got a freshly skimmed house to have a go at but the ceilings are really high hence why I'm asking as i will have to do the top half of the wall off a step ladder, was thinking of working in square sections as i would with a roller. Top section, then off the ladder then bottom section moving long the wall? Cheers
Richard, hope the bathroom ceiling has gone well.. I like to spray bathroom ceiling, where the walls are fully tiled, you get to mask and create the most sharpest cut line around the grout 👍 ..Sounds a good plan you have to tackle high walls, well done you’re on the right track.. eventually a tip extension will mean you can work off the ground and not need to move a ladder around.. but with using an extension, I’d recommend investing in a cleanshot.. this video features a new range on QuickConnect extensions, worth a look ruclips.net/video/gIk92gV9wlk/видео.html Keep in touch my friend 😆 Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ cheers Pete. I'm working my way through all your vids, really good info. Ceiling went on amazingly well. 515 lp tip 1000 psi spraying zinsser Perma white. 1 wall tiles the rest painted paper. Taped and draped the lot, lovely lines when done. I've ordered an extension and will get a clean shot next week. Would the fan angle still be ok near the top if the wall of I'm still on the ground?
Ah really pleased for you, you’re doing awesome 👌👍😆 ..still work in sections with a tip extension, then with the highest section, you could angle the cleanshot swivel slightly.. text book technique is to keep the gun square / parallel to the surface throughout, it’s good practice to perfect that technique and get it ingrained in you.. but naturally at the bottom of a wall you end up with an angle due to the floor and then at the top, you’re thinking of the ceiling.. basically you do get natural deviations to the technique, that wouldn’t compromise the overall outcome 😆 ..Hope that makes sense.. like I say, you’re doing great my friend 💯 ..regards Pete
hi bud just came across your channel your work is amazing fairplay to you👍😊 , sure do a great job , does people in private houses not mind all the masking taping up ?? any off your customers say be quicker rolling ?? woundering cause spraying 100% better job just taping which takes the time
Hi Niall, ah glad you’ve found the channel, really appreciate the feedback my friend.. that’s a good point you raise about private / occupied houses.. For me it’s not so much different to a manual project, in that each night the work area gets 100% cleaned.. then any masking is hopefully timed so that it’s off at the end of each day.. or to a minimum and it’s discussed with the customer.. I guess each project gets evaluated, often with individual rooms, such as a bedroom, we can get a free run, in that the customer will not be using it.. once your confidence grows, and you get quicker at masking, especially using a hand masker.. you find you can mask a room quicker than cutting in over and over.. then that all said, the walls may still get manually cut and rolled.. for me I spray all ceilings, and woodwork.. then perhaps 8 Or 9 out of 10 the walls are sprayed too.. I’m an advocate in recommending everyone starts by spraying ceilings, then progress from there.. check out this latest video ruclips.net/video/Z1EdRbG8wFc/видео.html ..Just a different take on a project, where a Pressure Roller is used.. but the video shows ceiling being sprayed, and woodwork.. then you’ll see how quick a hand masker can be and the awesome line you get.. I’m happy to help you all I can, feel free to ask questions.. subscribe and keep in touch if you can.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ hey mate thanks for the reply , I worked in Canada for couple of years did alot of spraying. Most all walls were always cut rolled ,ceilings sprayed on high ceilings or new build. But private sector mostly rolled ceilings. All woodwork always sprayed , having sprayed proper good few years trying get back into it , But alot painting contractors still not do much spraying and hard get oportunity to start doing it or practice spraying buddy
You’re very welcome buddy.. I really enjoy hearing about people’s background spraying and their processes.. Especially like Canada, US, Australia, to name just a few.. I see decorative spraying has been way more popular than here in the UK.. we are catching up and embracing the technology now though.. are you still in Canada my friend?
@@PaintHQ yes indeed pal no sadly my family couldn't settle there with the winter months and terrible home sick .I loved the work best job ever had my friend ❤😪 But family come first. From Ireland moved back after Canada work still not great , so we came to the uk , living in southwest region mate 😊👍
Ah I see what you mean, sone fond memories though.. Big warm welcome back to this side of the globe and UK soil.. I wish you plenty of success for you and your family, with your experience and skills I’m sure you’ve got some great things coming your way in the Southwest 👌👏👍❤️💯
Hello Roman.. Regarding material usage when spraying , It’s inevitable there is waste, because the transfer efficiency of Airless is poor. So you need to allow for the ‘waste’, roughly you’ll use 30-40% more material.. in your example I’m guessing you’ll need more than 1 gallon to spray 2 coats.. hope this helps my friend, keep in touch.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Thank you) I painted the walls in the office, I got such a paint consumption bucket 9 liters per 30 squares, diluted with water somewhere 10%, nozzle Graco fflp 514 at 1200 ppi. Somewhere 1 liter remained in the bucket. Thanks.
Great to see another spraying video from your self. It’s good to see someone out there trying to help others out with out wanting anything in return 👍🏻 I’m thinking of downsizing from a 695 to either a 395 with hopper or a 290 with hopper. Would you be able to give me any advice on both unit pls? One more question did you ever go on a spraying course and if so would you recommend doing so? I’ve already been spraying for about two years now, but I’m curious if I would learn anything anymore and potentially advance my spraying techniques. Keep the vids coming 💯
Hey my friend, that’s very kind of you to say, very much appreciated.. it’s my pleasure to help any way I can.. With the 395 and models above SmartControl is introduced, where spray pressure is regulated, especially at lower pressures.. the 290 was a more recent introduction in the UK, from what I understand the 290 and 390 share the same pump spec, just that the 290 comes with a paired down gun.. so with the 290 you’re actually getting a good spec for your money.. my reason for choosing the 395 was that I felt it worth spending that bit more for the bigger pump and SmartControl.. but you’ve got power in abundance with the 695, high spec SmartControl and FastFlush / BlueLink (I’m very envious 😆).. The 395 stand mount is quite weighty to manoeuvre in my opinion... I absolutely love the 395 with a hopper, it’s my day in day out workhorse.. but I’m actually considering getting the GX21 and add a hopper (it’s known as a GX21FF).. just for the portability on smaller jobs.. are you in the UK my friend ?.. Could the GX21FF be suitable for you alongside your 696? it’s a very affordable machine, portable and will happily handle any internal spraying jobs and smaller external projects 👍 ..I’ve never been on a spraying training course, I’ve heard all good things about what the PaintTech Training Academy are doing.. sounds like you’re further along though, because you know about the setup, spray tip selection and spray pressures .. not sure if an advanced course is offered.. for me, I have a very analytical mind, stemming from an early career in IT Support 😆 Think it’s helped me learn the ‘art’.. I like the technology behind spraying.. and I want to pass on what I’ve learnt to the good people out there, such as yourself 💯 ..Hope some of this info is helpful, keep in touch, I’m more than happy to help with any questions or problems you encounter.. thanks again for the support.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Thank you forgetting back to me and sorry for the delay. I’ve had a look at the GX21FF but as I manly work on construction sites the 240v won’t be any good to me as I would need 110v. If I worked more on residential properties then I would consider looking at a smaller set up like the gx21ff. All of the information you’ve have given me has been great and much appreciated thank you very much for taking the time. I might consider getting the Graco 290 with hopper to start of with and if I start to pick up more smaller jobs then I mite look at the GX21FF at a later date. Yes I live in the UK 🇬🇧 down in Kent. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. All the best to you Pete keep spraying 👍🏻
Hey Brian.. all but 1 door on this HSL came off and most of the frames were masked using 12” brown paper and only the side that constitutes the HSL was sprayed.. I say most because one frame leading into the kitchen had both sides sprayed, so in that example, no masking and the whole frame is sprayed at the same time.. this is my usual strategy to remove the doors (they get sprayed separately), then mask a ‘hood / shield’ to only spray everything that’s the side of the project.. hope this makes sense, if not feel free to get back to me and I’ll help all I can.. regards Pete
@PaintHQ when painting the stairs etc it's alot less paint than the walls would use. How do you work with that? I have a Wagner 350m, with a big suck tube. Is there a way to use smaller amounts of paint with it, say for stairs etc? Or do I need hvlp pot or something?
Unfortunately that’s a disadvantage of the 250 / 350 units.. the hose orifice and length requires more material.. the fittings are proprietary to ControlPro (for safety), so the hose cannot be swapped out.. plus a hopper improves the feed of small amounts via gravity into the pump.. but again you can’t add a hopper to the ControlPro models.. a professional airless option would be to invest in a Graco Handheld / Cordless unit.. new Graco developments that allow the spraying of small amounts and less waste .. news on this is coming to Europe / EMEA very soon, which I’m excited to share with you once I get the green light.. keep in touch my friend, I’m happy to help and advise all I can.. regards Pete
Thanks for the feedback my friend.. regarding the extractor.. at the time when researching, it seemed a 12” diameter machine was sufficient.. there is smaller options and bigger, but if you go bigger it’s more weight to manoeuvre on and around site, and more cost (ducting costs more).. this is the link below to the Clarke one that I brought from Sitebox (not sure if you’re in the UK), it’s got all the specs listed in the description. The 5m 12” ducting is extra, you can buy more and link them together if needed. Also, this does not have the spark protection, so it’s for waterborne materials only.. look into the risks, the explosion risk is a serious issue.. Clarke CAM300B - 12" Portable Ventilator Air Mover / Fume Extractor www.sitebox.ltd.uk/clarke-cam300b-12-portable-ventilator-air-mover-fume-extractor-240v-oclarke_3230462?paid=googlepaidproducts&gclid=Cj0KCQiAt8WOBhDbARIsANQLp96vXp-lhFF6KwWlyi_0-hsTH4ERbjKjXUEFdr0iqvQEMXTDJFSOelIaArlZEALw_wcB Hope this helps.. great to have your contribution on the channel.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ wow explosion risk... I do dot imagine that , but you are right. Ungortunately I am far away even from UK . I operate now in Romania , and probably we have diffrent brands. Thank you very much and keep it like that.
@@PaintHQ Thank you man. I have a question for you. I see , im onevofvyour video , that you paint a wall with dark blue . You use a can of 2,4 liters . I see also that you use graco machine with long hose. How do you manage the consumption?? I use graco gx21 with 15 meter hose and I suppose that , if I use 2,5 l of paint I only fill the hose ... You are using a short hose do not lose paint ? Thanks.
Ah I think I know what you mean.. the GX21 as standard comes with a 15m 1/4” hose which will take 476ml to ‘prime’ the hose.. I use a 7.5m 3/16” hose, which is a smaller hose in length and diameter.. which takes much less to prime the hose.. 134ml.. you kind of ‘loose’ the paint in the hose.. one ‘trick’ is to use water to ‘chase’ the paint through.. so if you was to run out of paint, not having any more paint to use.. you can follow it through with water, and can continue to spray what’s in the hose.. beware though, eventually you’ll spray the water (very watery paint).. is this what you meant?.. hope it helps and makes sense my friend.. By the way, the GX21 you have is an awesome machine.. in the UK it’s popular to add a hopper (it gets called a GX21FF).. a hybrid of the GXFF (which has an inbuilt hopper) and GX21 😆 Again, hope it helps.. Regards Pete
Hey Paul.. good point my friend.. yeah, where you see them is where they were sprayed.. If I recall correct, 3 in the kitchen, then 3 in each (unused) spare bedroom.. 3M plastic was run across each wall with Deltec sensitive and the floor was protected.. only the side of the door which constitutes the HSL was sprayed, so they didn’t need turning round.. each project in an occupied house needs careful evaluation, in 9 out of 10 cases I look to take the doors off, it’s so much easier 😆 The extraction and creating air flow with windows open helps massively with dust/dry fall.. Hope that helps a little my friend.. Any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.. regards Pete 🎨💯
A few questions from an older decorator who has recently bought a sprayer and finding your videos a great help? Did you take all doors off and spray them separately outside? Is the brown masking on the trims enough to stop any overspray going into the other rooms as I noticed you haven’t sheeted any of them? And roughly what is the cost of all the tape and masking for a job of that size? Thanks in advance 👍🏼
Hey Glen, it’s a pleasure to try and help you my friend.. thanks for watching the videos.. yes. 9 times out of 10 I take the doors off, it’s so much easier to mask up and spray both the door and the frame.. I wouldn’t take them outside, it’s tricky in an occupied house, what I’d do is look to plastic off a wall in a couple of ‘spare‘ rooms.. for the doors upstairs, perhaps a spare bedroom and the doors downstairs a dining area (if I recall, that’s what I did in the video with the go ahead from the custoner).. it’s not as bad as it seems, and like I say the area gets protected with plastic and floor protection.. this video demonstrates how I create ‘hoods’ with the 12” paper that acts as a shield when spraying the door frames.. I would put a sheet down, as a precaution in the opposing room.. or a drop of plastic taped from the top of the architrave, it doesn’t need to be taped all round, so you can still walk through.. just acts as another shield behind the brown paper.. the 12” paper does 99% of the work in shielding 👍 ..I don’t recall what I did in the HSL video, sometimes I’ll move sheets around during filming.. with the right choices in masking, it can work out cost effective.. so I’ll use quality Washi tapes for masking critical lines, like Deltec Gold or Tesa Precision (yellow).. then on the Hand Masker, I’ll use a cheaper production / multi purpose tape in conjunction with 12” brown paper or 99” plastic film.. in bulk the paper can work out less than £4 a roll and the production tapes less than £2 a roll.. on a HSL, dependent on the number of doors / rooms, plus masking the stringers / skirtings.. I’m probably using 2 or 3 rolls of paper, give or take.. then a roll of plastic film and a sensitive Washi tape (purple / pink) for masking the ceilings / cut lines (typically small areas) Here’s the masking a door frame video, if you haven’t already seen it my friend 😆 HACKS for Painting! Hand Masker tips to spray a door frame ruclips.net/video/Hou34W9qF-E/видео.html ..Happy to help you all I can on your journey, keep in touch.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ cheers Pete, on watching the video a second time I saw the doors all lined up against the wall. 👍🏼 I will watch the video about masking the frame. I want to have a go at spraying a hsl but was uncertain of the stages. I am use to doing it in reverse the old fashioned way lol. Do you charge more for a spray finish rather than brush and roller ? As it looks as if it would take a little longer! Many thanks Glen
Hi Pete great video. I've just started spraying not long ago and bought a Wagner 250m. I've noticed it's very temperamental with how thin the paint has to be for it to cycle through constantly. I'm contemplating buying a Graco gx21, do you still have to thin emulsion down for use on walls, ceiling etc? Thanks.
Hey Dan, thanks for the feedback buddy.. great question.. The GX21 is very very good machine and typically no thinning will be required for material to be handled by the pump.. it will handle internal decorative coatings just like the bigger pumps (my 395 for example).. I typically don’t thin when using airless, if I do it’s purely just to ease the material a bit so I can lower the pressure.. AR2 ceiling paint for example, you’ll see in my videos I add a drop of water..... so yeah in answer to your question, the GX21 will not let you down, it will handle typical internal decorative coatings day after day.. I’d like one myself, and I’d save my bigger 395 for really big or external jobs.. I like the look of the new GX21 Cordless 😆 I did a video on the 250m, ruclips.net/video/3Mlzp37Uepg/видео.html - just as a demo.. I liked it, but it’s not marketed / same league as a GX21.. the GX21 is aimed at the professional P&D / that even a DIYer would get the true airless experience 💯 ..Let me know how you get on, keep in touch.. I’m happy to help if I can.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Thanks for the reply Pete. I've just looked at the cordless one after you mentioned it. Not bad for the extra money. I've noticed the gx21 comes with a240v plug not 110 so that's better for me as well. I think I might sell the Wagner 250m(only used it once 😂) and go up to the gx21. Regarding the Wagner I have. I'm probably not doing something right. I would think paint down 1-9 like on the paint label instructs, spray literally a 12ft wall and all the pressure would go. The motor would kick in and go constantly for ages with no pressure building up. I would turn it off(it was on number 4-5) turn it to prime. Turn it back onto 5 and it will start again as normal. It will constantly do that? (It's a brand new unit not 2nd hand).
Hey Dan, you’re very welcome my friend.. the scenario you describe with the 250m, I have heard of before with that machine.. like you say, having to prime, then build up the pressure again to spray.. it happens like that when you run out of paint, also the suction feed cannot get the last bit out the can (It needs to be submerged and air tight to allow for suction).. it would also happen if the mesh filter on the suction feed is blocked, or the material is just too thick to be able to draw up and prime.. if any of these things were happening the pump would only be able to spray what’s in the machine (primed), when that’s used up, the pump will run fast and be noisy.. however you’ve covered all these ‘problems’, I’m afraid it could be one of the unfortunate negatives about these smaller ‘DIY’ pumps, they just don’t have the ‘guts’... you won’t get that with the GX21 👍😆 ..If I can make a suggestion, look at also getting a hopper for the GX21 (you can purchase a hybrid called a GX21FF).. I rate using a hopper, gravity draws the paint into the pump, pretty much allowing for smaller quantities of material to be sprayed and every last drop.. you won’t get the scenarios I describe above - unless the hopper runs out of paint 🙈 I rate SpraymanUK for the supply of Graco equipment, the team are very friendly and knowledgeable.. I’m not sponsored or paid to say that. In fact I’m on their stand at the P&D trade show in Coventry 23/24 November, it’s a free ticket.. be great to meet you and chat if you’re able to pop by 💯 Regards Pete
Hey buddy.. that’s a very good question.. the plastic I use is 99” which is ceiling to floor in average rooms (covers and protects freshly painted trim too).. HSL is trickier in that the height of the stairway.. I wouldn’t want to run another line of plastic, it’s not necessary.. a tip I do, is don’t smooth the plastic on long drops, leave the bottom ‘scruffy’, it will create a hood / barrier to catch any dry fall from the ceiling.. coupled with the low pressure HEA 515, it sprays so clean, little bounce back.. I’ve never been concerned the overspray would extend the plastic.. great question my friend.. I’m always happy to help if I’m able to 💯 ..regards Pete
Yeah very similar LP (low pressure) is Graco’s brand and HEA is Wagners equivalent.. for walls / ceiling I’m swaying more and more to HEA (in particular the 515).. for woodwork / trim, I tend to use Graco FFLP 👌👍😆
Good question my friend.. The viscosity of Otex Akva and Helmi is relatively high (thick), it would take some forcing through an .008 tip.. I believe the Helmi data sheet, states a .013.. I typically spray ‘decorative’ woodwork coatings with a .010 tip.. I get your thinking, but just think of the choice of tip size based on the thickness (viscosity) of the paint.. yes if the material viscosity is low (thin) and you fire it through a .010 - .013 tip, it will flow quick. But if you match the tip size to the material, it doesn’t come out as fast as you think.. Although airless spraying is quick technology, you typically move the gun fast.. Especially on any area that could get hit multiple times.. spindles, top corner sections of door frames / architrave 😊 ..Hope that helps a little, and I’ve worded it so it makes some sense 😆 ..I’m sure you’re doing great my friend.. keep in touch, and ask for help anytime 👍
Thanks for the support buddy, great to hear from you again.. Approx 2 hours.. whilst I’m not in a rush, I try to push the boundaries with drying times if I’m ready to go again 👍 ..Hope you’re having plenty of success my friend 💯
Hiya Pete, I've just come back to this video to check out the fan, I may need one soon. I take it there's no filters as such? Once the over spray is in the air it's pretty much dry as the particles are so small, am I right? So when it's drawn into the fan it's just dust? Cheers bud, Stu
Hey Stu, yeah you’re absolutely right.. just dry particles, no filter required.. I keep an eye on what’s coming out of the conduit outside, if any amount you can put a dust sheet down.. I find most dust ends up in the conduit and building up in the fan housing (it’s not a problem).. only thing to consider, if you will be spraying solvent based, it will be wise to pay more and go for the anti-explosion one 👍 ..Get back to me if you need anything else clarifying.. regards Pete 😆
You definitely don't need a fan ive never had one your just useing the wrong tip alot of guys use a 517 and are spraying to far away from the ceiling ends up like a 🍄 cloud goes everywhere..
@@JONO3679 I'm yet to test my sprayer out on walls & ceilings. I should've used it yesterday really, boarded, plastered & insulated a small garage ceiling, decided to roller it, as I thought about the time taken covering things etc. That'd be an interesting comparison video actually Pete, I'm sure there's already others out there, but if you have a similar sized room, start to finish, roller vs spraying after the masking etc. I'm sure it does still work out quicker & much easier to walk around spraying then back & forth with a roller. I'm currently spraying in a gazebo as I don't have the space to spray where I'm drying. If I'm spraying a panel then it's inevitable you'll get the 'overspray' when coming off the end, the same with spraying the edges, fan width will be much wider than the edge. So I wondered about getting a fan for this scenario. Hope you're all keeping well? Speak soon, cheers, Stu
@JONO3679 The use of an extractor is typically for spraying woodwork/ trim.. the dust / dry fall isn’t down to tip size or technique.. the atomisation of a primer or top coat is so fine, the dust can land on your freshly sprayed finish, spoiling it and travel around the property.. these extractors can refresh the air in an average sized room approx 5 times in one hour.. it’s just another tool that can help get that dust / dry fall out of the house 👍👌😆
Hey Stu.. great to hear from you my friend.. sounds like you’re doing some really nice work 💯 ..well done 👌👍😆 Great video idea, I’ll make a note.. hope you’re keeping well too buddy.. regards Pete
Lovely job Pete. Looked a bit tricky though. Quick question, when using the 3m film, does it have to cover ceiling to floor completely? Only asking as I have some ceilings over 3 metres ceiling to floor. Thanks for another great video. Cheers Allan.
Ah great to hear from you Allan.. No, it’s not essential to cover the whole wall.. just gives peace of mind if skirting is covered, you know nothing bouncing off the ceiling is hitting your fresh paint work.. often you just can’t get the coverage, like your example and HSL etc.. what I do is, when pulling the plastic down and opening it up, keep it bunched up and ‘scruffy’ at the bottom.. so not clinging to the wall.. the bunched up plastic at the bottom will create a protective barrier.. the 3M plastic has a static effect too that helps attract any dust.. I personally don’t use extra plastic or paper, it’s not worth the time and using precious material.. just wipe over your skirting with a damp cloth when finished.. if it was to hit the skirting it will only be a dry fall, nothing major that will harm the finish.. hope that makes sense 😆 Keep in touch my friend.. you’re smashing it and doing great work, bet you’re feeling really pleased with yourself.. keep going 💯😆
@@PaintHQ thanks Pete, will give that a go, it’s always great advice you give. Thank you. And yes, really enjoying it, something new every day, and slowly getting better. Cheers Allan.
Hello my friend, thanks for your question.. on average 1-2 days, a HSL project such as this 2 days (it may of ran into a 3rd, there was lots of doors / door frames).. great question.. keep in touch.. regards Pete 🎨💯
Hey Matt, yes good point.. areas such as stringers like you say.. the handrail / bannister and skirting / baseboards that could suffer from fall out from spraying so many areas.. all get checked, sanded / wiped and deliberately sprayed last on the final coat.. just to lay on the nicest / heaviest coat that dries down lovely.. great point my friend, thanks for raising 👏👍
I see you use the 5.15 HEA Tip for walls and ceiling could I ask would it be worth the investment for me to do the same as I have FFLP in 5.14 do you find the HEA sprays better or at a lower pressure and that extraction set up interest me a great deal I’ll have to look into that for sure….thanks again for another great video Pete.
Good question buddy.. I’d say I’m able to lower the pressure by around 500 psi Vs a LP515 tip.. when I spray a ceiling, it’s so clean, very little bounce back (going on me and in my eyes) 😊 ..I’m finding I’m liking the HEA 515 more and more.. The extractor is great, especially on larger projects in occupied homes.. this HSL comprised of 10 doors.. when you see me open the window in one of the bedrooms at the start, it’s to create a draw/flow of air.. that helps too.. if you ever have any questions on extractors or anything else, you always know you can ask anytime.. or if my reply doesn’t make sense, just keep on asking.. take care buddy 👍 I appreciate your support Simon 💯
In the UK it’s common that the crown moulding is sprayed white with the ceiling, so the ceiling cut line is masked just below the moulding .. if a different colour to ceiling it’s just another step to the process and another layer of masking where you mask your new position.. regards Pete
Quick question Pete,what are the mixing ratio's for prepping the paint for spraying?..I have a Titan 440 impact and not used that much as overspray was horrendous of which was down to user error..thanks again mate 👍👊
Hello my friend, you’re welcome to ask questions anytime 👍 .first of all, you have an excellent machine there, real workhorse.. it’s time to put it to work and earn its keep 😆 ..I typically don’t thin paints with airless spraying.. with the right tip selection, pressure and technique, you can minimise the overspray.. If I add water, it will only be a drop and because I know the material will benefit from a little easing.. I want to help you get back into spraying, once your confidence grows, you won’t look back.. perhaps start with ceilings, I’m a big fan of the HEA 515 tip, it will go straight into your Titan guard.. depending on the material and conditions your pressure will be somewhere around 1400 - 1700 psi.. start at 1200 and spray a test on brown paper.. most my videos you’ll see me spray into brown paper on the floor.. aim for about 12 inches away, keeping the gun square to the surface.. if you don’t get a solid fan pattern with soft feathered edges, turn up the pressure to 1400 and keep going fron there, until you hit the sweet spot.. I’m guessing fron what you’ve said, your pressure was too high and / or you was too close and maybe not keeping the gun square.. too much pressure and too close, the material bounces back off the surface, making a mess and wasting material ☹️ ..Don’t give up, you’ll get there and I’ll help you all I can 💯 Regards Pete 🎨💯
oh men stop posting videos like this lol, you making me buying a spryer and have a ago. love the finish on the videos and i love the fact i can't see flashing atoll. well done mate keep up with the 1 class work and the videos.
Ah that’s so kind of you to say my friend.. you can do it too!. Anything I can do to help or advise, please don’t hesitate to ask.. I’m there for you every step of the way 💯 ..Keep in touch Flavio.. thanks for the support.. regards Pete ..Ps which country are you from, if you don’t mind me asking 😆
@@PaintHQ I'm just about to finish this en-suit loft conversion and tbh I'm not looking to start painting due the angles and pitch, after numerous videos i got in contact with direct spray and I'm looking in to the gracco ffx trim package. This job is looking so good, needs to be finish with very good quality paint work. New plaster new doors etc etc...therefore why im looking in spraying. no problem on making questions mate .... i am on the channel islands jersey.
Ah lovely, an old friend of mine lived in Jersey back in the 80s, he said they were the best years of his life 🙂 .. This video is a loft conversion with the angles, all sprayed.. not sure if you’ve seen it yet.. ruclips.net/video/Q0PYzz3273Q/видео.html The GX range of Graco sprayers are excellent, will easily handle projects such yours.. I personally like the GX21FF (it’s a hybrid of the GXFF / GX21).. basically it’s a GX21 with a hopper kit, you can quickly swap between hopper and siphon modes.. the original creators of this concept and in my opinion the best version, was created by SpraymanUK.. if you’re able to, I whole heartily recommend you give them a call (I’m not sponsored in any way 😆).. their customer service and product knowledge is first class.. let me know what you think to the video, hope it helps in some way and keep in touch, I’ll help you to spray 😆 Regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Hi Pete, i have seen the video before thank you for the link anyway, jersey i way different know than used to be back on 80's.however i only been here since 2004 and i can tell the difference since then. jersey become tax heaven for some but for others just a open door prison. have said that i rather be here than anywhere else for now, geographically is such a lovely island!!!. I will get in contact with spraymanuk, thank you for you help and take the time to replay my comments not very common on youtube. best regards
Hi Pete, hope you are well. Done a load of woodwork today along with spindles for the first time. Primed with Otex Akva which sprayed really well then top coat of jobnstones aquaguard which caused a couple of problems. I had a 208 fflp tip running at 200psi and was getting a lot of spits. I thinned the paint by around 5% and fully cleaned out the system before trying again, seems to have significantly reduced the spits but still just below 200 psi and unfortunately I got a couple of runs. When i finished the first top coat I qas cleaning out the system for the night and noticed when I triggered off when cleaning with water it continued to spray at a reduced rate, could this mean that the needle and spring needs a strip down clean? The gun has only done around 30 litres of paint since new? Cheers
Hi Richard, great to hear you’ve had success spraying spindles.. Johnstones Aqua and Aqua Guard can be problematic to spray, I’ve heard others say it’s not really geared for spraying.. but sounds like you got it spraying, well done 👍..200 psi sounds very low, I’d have expected you to be at least 800 psi (low pressure tip).. remind me, which sprayer you have my friend.. regarding the gun, you’re right you shouldn’t be having problems this soon.. the problem you describe does point to packing desks being worn or clogged with paint.. was the guard still on?.. just wondering if the tip guard seat / seal is not installed correctly (would explain slitting when spraying).. hopefully all just a glitch and after your clean out all will be ok.. hope this helps a little.. well done on your spraying success, keep me posted buddy.. regards Pete
Brilliant pete i dont have extractor fan. do u still think its possible to spray occupied house or is the fan a must ? Cheers mate great to see u back with another video i really enjoy them
Hey Mick.. really appreciate your kind words of support my friend 💯 ..No, portable extraction is not essential,, when spraying a large project, it just gives that extra layer of assistance in getting the dust out the air, off surfaces and off the sprayed woodwork.. one tip, if you’re not using an extractor is open a window at the furthest point to create a draw in the air.. with an extractor the draw in the air is more noticeable.. in this video, I open a bedroom window at the start.. So yeah, not essential, with or without I still plastic off nearby areas.. with an extractor, you’ll find those areas are cleaner and the cleanup at the end of each day is less.. hope that makes sense and helps a little.. if ever you’re thinking of an extractor, I’ll help you.. any other questions, don’t ever hesitate to ask away.. I’ll always do my best.. regards Pete
Hey Dewi.. that’s a very good point.. no it’s not a myth, if using solvent based materials, a spark proof / explosion proof extractor is recommended.. I believe the units are earth grounded and have technology so any explosive volatile gasses don’t come into contact with anything that could cause ignition as they pass through the fan.. in my case here I was spraying waterborne products so it wasn’t an issue 😆 ..great point my friend, thank you for raising 👏👍👌 Keep in touch and feel free to ask questions anytime.. Regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thanks pete. Can i ask do u ever spray oilbased through your sprayer? Im in Ireland and the tikkurila is hard to come by where i am . So I've been using coverstain on varnished wood that is being painted. But ive only brushed and rolled . On a recent job i had 12 doors going from varnish to satin . I wished I could have sprayed them but was told waterbased products not as good as coverstain or bin for tannin and bleed and i was concerned to spray these products in an occupied house. Any suggestions? Thanks mate
You’re very welcome.. I see what you mean.. BIN is definitely the standard solution if tannin bleed is feared.. for water based, you possible could use 123 as long as knots are not the problem.. I guess 123 followed by a spot prime of BIN sprayed out of a rattle can could work.. Do you have a HVLP / XVLP solution at all.. if spraying BIN, I’d tend to go that route, more control, sprays a smaller quantity, low viscosity very much suited to HVLP.. fast cleanup with Methylated Spirits.. BIN would go through airless nicely with a .08 tip and cleanup with Meths but it would come out quick.. I pretty much spray waterborne materials through the airless 👍 I’m by no means suggesting to purchase more spray equipment.. I know it can all be very confusing, I want to help you find solutions and gain confidence to spray 💯 I could speak to my Tikkurila rep about shipping to Ireland, if that’s a possibility when ordering via the website.. my orders get shipped to me. I only use Anti Reflex 2 on ceilings so I order quite often.. I’ll ask for you if you’re interested in Tikkurila, could always get my rep to speak to you 😆 ..Keep going my friend.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thanks so much pete. Yeh i guess i want to spray when it comes to painting over varnished trim because im finding it very time consuming by hand and people dont realise just how much work is in it and and therefore cant justify the price. Im nervous about spraying oilbased in occupied homes 😂 thats why I need to find a waterbased system thats reliable. Im really only getting goin pete so i wouldn't be ordering regularly enough to justify you asking your rep but i do really appreciate your kind offer. Can i ask if you ever spray exterior render? It seems the consensus here is that painters only use sprayer for pebble dash. But i think it would save so much time to spray? Is there an issue with adhesion or coverage or am i missing something? 😂 sorry for so many questions but i want to get advice from people who really are excellent at what they do. Thanks again pete
Another great video man! 👏🏼 What determines you spraying walls too? Spraying woodwork - yes, ceilings - yes. But time wise on masking up etc for spaying walls, not to mention masking up when you spray ceilings after walls, wouldn’t it be more worthwhile brush and rollering? I’m curious 😄
Hey Josh, great question buddy.. I’ve just found myself, more and more including the walls in the process.. whereas at first I sprayed the ceiling, then the woodwork and cut and rolled the walls.. I guess I assess every job and question, can I spray everything.. once you quicken up the process, the hand maskers help, it’s worth it for the finished result.. high stair wells like you get with HSL are so much easier.. once masked, I can do it all from the ‘ground’ using the gun extension.. I only went up the ladder once to mask off the ceiling, that’s easier off a ladder than cutting in, where sometimes you’re having to stretch with the brush.. with practice with taping, you can find your line and pretty much push the tape along in the straightest of lines.. I agree, good cutting in skills are a must but the line you get from a masked ceiling is just precision 👌💯 ..Then if you get the pulling of the masking right, that too can be done off the ground without a ladder.. just so much less labour intensive, and awesome result 👌 ..Very good question my friend, I appreciate your input and support.. take care.. regards Pete 🎨💯
would be silly not to spray out the big areas once its masked .thats the whole point of spraying.. and masking a few windows and doors would probably take 3 hours.. then 2 hours to seal it...
Hey buddy.. good question 👍 a 290 / 390 are basically the same pump / spec, with a maximum tip size of 0.021.. The 290 is more recent in the UK and cheaper because it comes with a cheaper spec gun.. so if I’d wanted the 390, knowing I was using a Contractor gun, I’d have actually purchased the 290.. whereas the 395 is a spec up.. bigger pump, max tip size 0.023, more guts to spray external masonry.. and the 395 comes with a useful feature.. SmartControl, which regulates pressure, especially at low pressures.. useful if going Air Assisted Airless 😆 ..Hope this helps explain.. the 395 is a great machine, a workhorse that will not miss a beat.. Do any of these sprayers interest you my friend? Keep in touch, great to have you contributing to the channel.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ yes I'm planning to buy one. 390 is lighter and cheaper. But I have no idea how the smart control works and is it really helpful. Thinking that it might be really useful when doing bannisters or cabinets. But it 5kg and 250£ on top
Yeah the 395 is certainly heavy to manoeuvre, I guess it’s the extra ‘guts’ adding to the weight.. could a GX21FF be an alternative option to consider?.. just depends on your workload.. the GX21FF is basically a GX21 with a finishing (hopper) kit, that you can quickly switch between siphon and hopper mode.. the hopper along with the 7.5mtr 3/16” hose, is perfect for spraying smaller quantities when refinishing cabinetry etc.. the 7.5mtr line cones as part of the GX21FF bundle.. The GX21 itself takes up to a 0.021 tip, aimed at the decorative sprayer it will work hard for you, all day if you needed.. whereas the 290 / 390 has a bit more guts if you was wanting to work it harder, all day, every day.. if you have a chat with Mike at SpraymanUK, he could explain further.. like I say the 290 / 390 are the same workings, you pay more because of the gun upgrade.. my recommendation though is treat yourself to a Graco Contractor Compact Gun, at the moment it comes with a 1/8” whip hose.. highly recommended for manoeuvrability, it’s an awesome gun.. Sorry, I’m not a salesman by any means and not sponsored by SpraymanUK, I’m just trying to help my friend 😆 .I do rate the GX21FF, in fact I’m looking at getting one myself and save the 395 for really big projects / externals ..Let me know if I can help some more, either way keep in touch and let me know what you decide.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thanks a lot. Huge amount of useful information. Cabinets are so rare now to be honest but summer houses or outside walls is pretty common. I'm doing new build houses now mostly and bit of everything on private jobs. So choosing something universal. And was thinking between 390 and 395. After some reviews got dilemma cause people kind of prefer 390... I mean 395 is not heavier than transformer anyway :)))
You’re very welcome, I can appreciate it’s a big decision to make the right choice for your needs.. what I can say, you won’t go wrong with the build quality of the Graco Professional pumps.. I’ve only ever heard good reports on the longevity of both the GX and Classic PC range 👏👍
Not sure what you mean my friend.. everything was sprayed on this project and masked off after each stage.. woodwork / trim.. walls ..and finally the ceiling 👍
Hey buddy.. it was an occupied property, so the carpet was already fitted.. plastic carpet protector was laid and the 12” brown paper was used to mask the stringers / woodwork ..Hope you’re keeping well my friend 👍 regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Hi Pete, I have watched your videos, they are brilliant and you make spaying look effortless! I purchased a Wagner HEA 350M skid a long time ago and not had much practice yet. I am going to start spraying the woodwork and paneling ( I recently fitted) in my HSL. I have primed the Mdf paneling with Johnston's Acrylic primer. I used a 311 tip and just purchased a 211 tip for finish coat. What type of result would I get using the 211 tip. I am DIY'er.
Hi Aby, really appreciate you watching the videos and your kind words of support.. always great to hear from a DIYer, you have a great machine in the 350M, it’s a very popular sprayer on this channel.. I feel you’ll get the best results with a HEA ProTip (Purple) fine finish tip... Check out this video ruclips.net/video/8APgip0-5J8/видео.html Just one pointer using any 208, 210, 211 tip.. excellent choice for spindles 👌 but move quick.. the concentrated / narrow fan will let out more paint than the wider tips.. In the above video description, I’ve included the link to the AkzoNobel Topcoat I use, bring low viscosity sprays lovely through a 208 / 308 tip at low pressure (speed 2 if I recall).. for a beautiful satin cabinet like feel.. there’s a discount code you could use if you was wanting to try it 🙏👍😆 ..there’s also links to the tip guard and professional fine finish tips that I’m referring to.. Hope this helps my friend.. good luck and please let me know how you get on.. happy to help and advise if I can.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ hello there, can you help me out. Recently purchased xvlp 5000. Began first job on a front door, used the fine finish cannister with fb, water based, all-white goss. Thinned down paint, set material gauge at 6 and air at seven. Paint released however was a very heavy output with intermittent spurting ... Any thoughts? Did warm up the turbine, think I should have lowered material gauge, likewise, maybe I shouldn't have watered-down fb paint in fine finish cannister... Love to hear any pointer! In the end went back to brushing the paint out and laying it off🤒🥺😣
Hey Beija.. it’s my pleasure to help you my friend.. the XVLP is a great machine, with the extra air, decorative materials will spray, just takes a bit of tweaking.. first of all, warning the paint really can help by lowering the viscosity.. just submerge the metal pot with the gun attached in hot water.. (you can buy screw on lids for the pot).. a drop of Floetrol (a paint conditioner) added to the paint helps too.. then with the symptoms you describe, try lowering the material setting, then potentially increasing the air.. decorative materials will need a bit more air to break up and atomise the paint.. I’m sure you’ve done a great job my friend, keep up the good work.. let me know how you get on and feel free to ask questions anytime 👍👏😊 Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ thanks so, so much... gonna take the turbine from the client's address back home and play around with it... recently brought it, immediately used it at a client's project: crazy man I am! ...felt like giving up the ghost 👻 ....however I've seen your successes and believe in your honest explanation...let the game begin... Blessings to you
Yeah I know my friend - my production style has always been unique and a little dramatic in the past - my latest videos are less dramatic, hopefully more informative and entertaining - check out Graco Ultra QuickShot Unboxing. Ultra QuickShot REVIEW, SETUP & DEMO ruclips.net/video/yYNt1RXkgNg/видео.html
Holy guacamole!!! Finished project came out from some magazine. It's all on the details. Nice work.
Thank you sir, you’re so kind 🙏 ..keep in touch my friend. happy to help and advise if I can.. regards Pete
I’m going to comment before I watch the video simply because I know what’s coming….outstanding Pete 💪🏻💪🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Ah thank you Simon, that’s very kind of you my friend.. quick question, are you thinking of going to the National Painting and Decorating Show, 22/23 November in Coventry?.. It’ll be great to meet as many people as I can💯👍😄
@@PaintHQ yeah buddy I’ll be there just let me know what day you pick be great to meet up…I’ll send you my email in pm on Instagram 👍🏻
Ah nice one my friend 👏👍👌😆
Another great video again Pete keep them coming mate top man 👍
Thank you Darren, you’re a diamond my friend 🙏
@@PaintHQ I can’t stop watching your videos mate there great 👍
You’re so kind, thank you very much for the support 💙
Absolutely brilliant
Thank you Paul, appreciate your input my friend.. keep in touch.. regards Pete
Just brilliant as always Pete and very timely as after the spare room I’ll be tackling the hall, stairs and landing as I work my way downstairs. Must have a look at those extractors. Keep up the great videos
Ah that’s great Steve, I appreciate the feedback.. hope you’re having plenty of success 👍 ..If you ever need any help or advice, about extractors or anything else, don’t hesitate to ask 👍👌👏😆
Lovely job Pete
Bet the customer was well pleased
Hey Graham, thanks for your feedback.. Yeah, this one was actually a returning customer, which is always very nice.. The video is on here, it’s the “Amazing Result, Graco Ultra Handheld..” where I spray their new bathroom installation 😆.. Hope you’re keeping well my friend 💯 Regards Pete 🎨
Superb work and video
Thanks for watching and the feedback my friend.. I’m here to do my best to help if you ever have any questions.. Regards Pete
Super video and great comment section. I have a Wagner Control 250 and an XVLP3500 and am getting used to them - totally different process to brush and roller! Got a big HSL to start tomorrow after a drawn out extension build and loads of prep - ready to paint! Just hope I can get it all done in a week - it's massive!!
Hello my friend, thank you so much for the kind feedback.. yeah it’s all certainly a learning curve, even a different order of doing things Vs a brush / roller.. very rewarding though, the superior finish and potentially quicker (once you master the process 😊).. this later HSL video might help..
HVLP Spraying a Staircase and Airless Spraying Interior Walls
ruclips.net/video/lkGZCVcP6l0/видео.html
Good luck next week, I’m sure all will go absolutely fine and on schedule.. keep in touch, happy to help and advise if I can and let me know how it goes.. regards Pete 🙏
@@PaintHQ Cheers Pete - spent the day masking - following your technique. Going to try Dulux Quick Drying Satinwood through the Wagner XVLP 3500 after priming bare wood with Bullseye Plus ( some of the bare wood is pitch pine which will bleed through lesser primers.)
Clients have been having an extension built for 12 months now so I’ve been asked just to get it done as quick as possible… no frills..
Here’s a quick look at the masking - I didn’t get the top landing done, too many bits of snagging/caulking/2-pac etc but will get some paint in tomorrow.
Am considering doing the walls with a brush and roller - if I have time this week, as I’m not convinced it’s any quicker to spray them - especially as the ceilings were done already.
Really appreciate your feedback - hope Monday has been kind to you.
ruclips.net/video/EloxwjjbHZo/видео.html
Looking good my friend, you’re very organised 👏👍🙏
@@PaintHQ Thanks Man - 2 days left to roll the walls 😅 It's been a learning curve! Hope all's well.
@@PaintHQ Came out grand in the end 😅 ruclips.net/video/WD71etXOJI4/видео.html
Good music , again lol good video.
Thank you for watching Steven.. You’re a diamond my friend.. feel free to reach out to me if you need any help or advice, I’ll always do my best.. regards Pete 🎨💯
Thats bang on mate, we do a lot of spraying. Thats a tight area you ve done, and made it look easy. Never used tikkurilla through a sprayer, got to try it. 👍
Really appreciate the kind words of support my friend.. please subscribe if you can, it’ll be great to hear your spraying knowledge and get your input in future.. Regards Pete 👍
..Just meant to add.. Tikkurila, especially the Anti Reflex 2 for ceilings, sprays great.. dries ultra flat matt.. I spray all ceilings with Tikkurila AR2 👌👍😆
How long did that take to spray out..get rid of the paper masking on the frames run tape round stick on the plastic masking cut down middle the wrap it around to the other side.
Amazing work Pete. You make it so easy. Cheers Mike
Ah thank you Mike, appreciate the kind words of support my friend 💯
Super!!🤙🤙🤙
Thank you for watching Ivan, I appreciate the support 💯 ..If you ever have any questions, feel free to ask anytime.. Regards Pete 🎨👍
BRAVO robisz dobra robote.
dziękuję bracie, doceniam wsparcie
Top video pete excellent breakdown of everything used !
I appreciate that buddy, thanks for your continued support 👍 Hope you’re keeping well.. Pete 🎨💯
Great work Pete your an inspiration..you make it look so easy,keep up the great work..👏👏👏
Thanks for the kind words of support.. you’ll get there too, with practice and gaining confidence, you won’t look back my friend 👍👏👌💯
My god amazing lad
Thank you 🙏 you’re so kind 🙏
Es de admirar su profesionalismo mi hermano 👍👌
gracias hermano, valoro tu amabilidad y apoyo 💯
You're the master of masking bro and of course that means everything when spraying
Seems most of your videos are what I call high end paint jobs
Would you consider doing a video on low end paint job on a budget (Rental Properties)
Out here in California we call low end paint jobs (Summer rental paint job) Ha Ha
Material and time are a key factor on those jobs
I love to spray but feel like I'm losing money on the low budget paint jobs
Anyways great videos bro your killing it
Hey Tim, that’s very kind of you to say my friend.. That’s a very good idea for a future video.. as soon as the opportunity arises, I’ll see what I can put together.. We face the same type of scenario here in the UK.. A rental is difficult to price, when we care about the quality and finish like you and I do, that takes time.. Then we’re competing with those that are prepared to do it cheaper, without our level of care and attention.. Hope that makes sense 😆 ..It really is great to hear from you in California, I’d love to hear more in future, how painting / decorating and spraying works in the US... thanks again for you input, I really appreciate the support.. Will most definitely note your request and see what I can put together.. Regards Pete 🇺🇸❤️💯
Amigo súper elegante y fino,en qué tienda de EUA compras esa pintura usted me la recomendó una ves.Felix
Gracias hermano .. La pintura Tikkurila se compra en el Reino Unido .. ¿Estás en los Estados Unidos? Perdón si no te he entendido .. quiero ayudarte mi amigo
Overall timing question:
Hi Pete,
I’m in the midst of a trim, walls and ceiling job which, thanks to your postings, I’m hoping to spray all of it and get most of the paint where it’s intended!
I’m using Tikkurila throughout (AKVA, Helmi, Optiva Matt 5, AR2). This is my first time out with these products.
Following your lead I started with the AKVA. I hoped to get this on followed by at least one coat of Helmi once it had dried. Then I read the AKVA instructions; “Wait 5 hours before topcoat”. It was late in the day so I thought OK, tomorrow I’ll get the two Helmi topcoats on - at this point I read the Helmi instructions; “Leave 16 hours between coats”! Help!
I figured that you mask off the trim the day after you paint it, then coat the walls and, in turn, mask this the following day to do the ceilings. Once sprayed you de-mask and leave.
So I though prep for, say, two days, then prime and 2 topcoat trim on day three, mask off trim and spray walls on day four, finally mask walls and spray ceilings on day five.
With Tikkurila drying times it would add two days to the job. Am I going wrong?
Any guidance would be most gratefully received. With best wishes, Rob
Hey Rob, this is great news.. Everything I’ve read here, the product choice, your plan / order, is all spot on 👌👍 ..you’re right to check the PDS (Product Data Sheet), but in reality, what we do is push the drying times.. so in your plan.. 2 top coats of Helmi in the one day is very much achievable.. each coat will be dry, even if you unfortunately got a run (it happens), it will be dry enough in one day to sand off and coat again.. then yeah mask off the woodwork next day, walls can be sprayed, then next day mask off the walls for the ceiling.. HSL are one of the bigger decoration jobs and can be daunting to spray, but this is where with a bit of planning spraying makes it easier.. especially the ability to spray from the floor high walls / ceilings.. the only use of a ladder Is the masking for the ceiling.. if all goes well you should be able to pull the masking to reveal the ceiling from the floor 😆 Big well done my friend 💯 any further questions or ‘problems’ let me know.. it’ll be great to hear how it all goes.. so far you’re doing great 👌👏👍💯
@@PaintHQ Hi Pete,
You’re a gem! Thank you so much for all your advice and encouragement.
So am I right in thinking you would try to get the AKVA primer on at the end of your prep time so it’s ready for Helmi the next day?
Many thanks and best wishes, Rob
P.S. I managed to get the AKVA though the Graco at level 7!
You’re very welcome, anytime.. yeah you’re right 👍 Sometimes depending on amount of prep, I’d spend a full day or 2.. then I’d spray primer the next day first thing, followed by the 1st top coat
..Good spraying that, it’s very satisfying.. excellent adhesion primer too 💯
@@PaintHQ Many many thanks.
Just to be clear, if you spray the primer first thing, followed by 1st top coat at, say, lunchtime, do you manage to get a 2nd second top coat on the same day? I.e. so you can spray the walls the next day. Thanks again and best wishes, Rob
Yeah it is possible, I’ve achieved that before.. an early start, and as long as each cost dries nicely, you could get the woodwork all coated to a finish.. ready for masking off the next day.. just depends on size, customer, ie perhaps you have the luxury of a later finish.. I know it’s not PDS ‘textbook’ but you can push the boundaries 😆
hey bud would love to have you on the channel for an interview
Hey buddy.. yeah sure, sounds good to me 👌👍 ..Always great to hear from you guys in the US 💯🇺🇸❤️ ..At your convenience, let me know what method you would prefer me to DM you.. regards Pete 😆
Great videos! Do you need the air mover or extractor or can you manage without it as well
Thank you my friend, appreciate the feedback.. it’s not essential, just handy to have if spraying a lot of woodwork / joinery / doors etc.. if you’re not using one, just open a window somewhere at the far end of the project and open a front or beck door, basically to create a draw of air.. also have a break in the middle of doing a lot of spraying, to let the dust / dry fall settle and clean up, otherwise this dust can kick up onto your sprayed work and create a rough finish.. so yeah, the extractors are not essential, but they do help ‘clean the air’.. hope that makes sense.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thanks for your prompt reply and valuable advice
Legend pete. Hsl are always stressful for me!
Hey James, thank you my friend.. yeah I know what you mean.. a lot less labour intensive spraying Vs manual brush and roller.. a lot less up and down the ladder and manually can be tricky stretching to cut in with a brush.. it’s easier to spray from the ground, when masking the walls, you can find your line and ‘push’ the tape along.. then once the ceiling is sprayed the masking should come down without the ladder.. sorry I’m waffling on.. Hope you’re still having plenty of success my friend.. one last thing, are you planning to go the National Painting and Decorating show in November ?.. it’ll be good to catch up 👍👌👏💯
@@PaintHQ yeah mate i booked my tickets and definitely plan on going! That would be ace man! Nah you aint waffling bud, i appreciate the tips man, i got a 3 story hsl to do at some point in the next few months and i was sorta dreading it, but you always come out with a perfect vid 😄 thanks dude! Just finished up a house of pvc windows today, absolutely sweltering dude, but glad to get it done! Lots of spraying coming up next few weeks, and lots of varied stuff too! Gotta love it man. 💨🤙💯
Ah great, look forward to it.. yeah it’s been a hot one today ☀️😓💯 ..You’re doing great brother! 👌👍👏😆
@@PaintHQ you too man, keep it up bud. Look forward to seeing what you got on next 🤙
Hi only just found your videos so playing catch up , great to see someone spraying in tight spaces as opposed to large empty spaces , the helmi 80 looked to have a good sheen I’ve never sprayed it I tend to use the 30 satin but have a job coming that requires gloss so will give it a try , thanks for taking the time to make these videos all the best Roger
Hi Roger, appreciate you checking out the channel and your kind words of support.. Yeah I’ve turned to Helmi 80 when requiring that traditional gloss finish.. A more recent product by Teknos has caught my eye.. Teknos Futura Aqua 90, I’ve tried their eggshell and satin finishes, they’re quality products.. I don’t tend to like swapping and changing products, but I do like what Tikkurila, Teknos, Caparol, BM offer the waterborne decorative coatings market and for those that have embraced spraying.. so yeah, for me on a future job requiring high gloss I’m going to try Teknos “90”, I’ve heard excellent reports and I’ve seen a sample sprayed.. looked like the high shine you get on kitchen cabinet doors 👌👍 ..Great to have you contributing to the channel, keep in touch, I’ll be interested to hear about your future projects or feel free if you need any help or advice.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ thanks Pete will have a look at the teknos a 90 sheen level is one often best I’ve seen for wb gloss all the best
You’re very welcome, anytime 👍
@@PaintHQ Did you ever try the Teknos futura aqua 90? If so how did it compare, or can you please point me to that upload ... Thanks.
@STUMANFOO99 Hello my friend.. Yeah, I was very impressed by the results - here’s the video
Spraying Oil Based Vs Water Based Paint. HVLP Vs Airless Spraying
ruclips.net/video/RXIb8hOmjFU/видео.html
Regards Pete 🙏💙💯
A question wen you masking up the walls to paint ceilings do you leave the purple tape 1/16 of the inch lower or do you stick the tape all the way to the ceiling thanks
Hey Lauro, good question buddy.. I mask right up to the ceiling line (cut line).. I believe it’s common practice in other countries to mask or produce a cut line a little lower (1/16 as you say) 😆 ..but yeah I’m masking right up to the ceiling.. give it a try, use a purple sensitive tape first, you get the straightest, awesome cut line 💯 ..hope this helps, keep in touch.. regards Pete
Does the semi sheen paint that sprays over from the stair trim on the wall not cause issues when you paint the wall with topcoat?
Hey buddy.. no not at all, as a precaution sometimes I’ll give it a quick scuff with sandpaper, but either way it’s never been a problem.. I do have some footage that demos this, I’ll put something together one day 👍 ..thanks for your question, keep in touch.. regards Pete
Do you take the tapes off while wet or dry ? How do the cutting in edges look as opposed to brush ? I have a graco gx21 but hardly use it and was wondering if it’s worth while on jobs like you’ve just showed. Thanks for any info
Hi Ian, thanks for your question.. yeah I remove masking whilst wet, it avoids any risk of bridging 👍 ..a masked line that’s sprayed is mind blowing, whilst I respect the ability to use a brush, when you take down the tape after spraying you do notice a difference 👏👏👏
..the GX21 is a great unit, go for it my friend 🙏 I’m happy to help and advise if I can.. keep in touch.. regards Pete
Quality work there Pete 👍🏽 you say a drop of water to ease it out how much exactly? I've got a 390 at the moment and I add 5-10% just to get rid of the tailing in the fan pattern otherwise I seem to lose the tails unthinned at around 1800 - 2000 psi and I know that's quite high for fflp tips. I usually spray haftprimer and PU satin but used otex and helmi before too with similar problems.
Hey buddy, thank you for the kind words of support.. you’re exactly spot on with your thinking, and what you’re wanting to do just to bring the pressure down a bit.. To answer, I’d say 5% (could actually be less).. in the hopper, I add a splash.. give it a good stir, it’s surprising how much of a difference it makes.. well done my friend, sounds to me you’re doing great.. nice machine too, the 390 👌👍😆 ..regards Pete
@@PaintHQ cheers mate, I think I just need to get better acquainted with the machine as well. 👍🏽
Yeah your confidence will soon grow and grow.. a hopper kit can be a nice addition, just down to preference though 😆 ..Regards Pete
@@PaintHQ that's what I'm thinking as well, practice and more practice. I do have the hopper 👍🏽 makes cleaning it out so much easier. At the moment I have the hopper, 3/16" hose and the pc contractor gun as my woodwork set up. What hose do you run?
That’s great.. awesome setup my friend.. I have a 7.5m 3/16”, with a 1.4” 1/8” whip ..it’s surprising how far you can reach with a 7.5m, so much more manageable.. I just couple / add another 7.5m 3/16” line for bigger projects 👍
Secondly, how's the Albany durable matt sheen? Can you use it on ceilings as well? Was planning 'all white' interior. Thanks
Albany Durable Matt is a fraction of a sheen (making it wipeable) but still in the matt range.. certainly not silk.. it’s a lovely finish, I rate the product.. typically I prefer to mask off and spray Tikkurila Anti Reflex or Teknos Teknoceiling on the ceiling, for that dead flat look.. but you world get away with Albany going all over, if you don’t have critical light shining through👍 ..keep in touch, regards Pete
Excellent video and great to watch. I'm just starting my spraying journey and Just wondering what your go to tape is and if you ever get any paint pull?
Hi Lisa, sorry I haven’t responded sooner, for some reason this comment has only just become visible to me.. to answer your question, my go to tapes are Deltec.. I use Purple delicate surface tape on fresh emulsion, and Deltec Gold on trim / woodwork (that I typically have sprayed the day before).. both these tapes perform excellent for me.. only tine I may get sone paint pull on emulsion, is if historic paint jobs (that was out of my control), and fresh plaster wasn’t primed / mist coated.. the previous emulsion wouldn’t have adhered well.. then the emulsion I’ve sprayed could pull in places.. hope this helps and you’re having success on your spraying journey.. happy to help if I’m able to.. keep in touch, I’d always respond 👍.. regards Pete 🎨💯
Do u always prime the wood? Do u sand them too? which grid? and between topcoat.. u sand too? what grid? thanks
Yes always prime and sand.. denib between coats with 280 / 320 grit paper 👍🙏
@@PaintHQ thank you very much. I a studying ur channel..
Just curious as to why you were pulsating spray handle around 11:50?
Hey buddy.. thanks for your question - I’m pulling the trigger in fast succession to direct shots of paint in two tight masked areas of wall.. it’s a small gap between two runs of architrave / trim around two door frames 😄👍 all the best my friend.. regards Pete 💙💯
Hi, when you spray painting woodwork , do you dilute the paint?
Hey buddy, great question.. no, I don’t look to thin trim / woodwork paints.. that’s an advantage of airless spraying (over HVLP), with the right tip selection and pressure to atomise the paint, you shouldn’t need to thin 👍 ..thanks for watching, keep in touch 🙏 regards Pete
Epic. 😂
Much appreciated Tom.. Hope you’re keeping well my friend 💯
@@PaintHQ all’s good. Keep the vids coming really enjoy them the finish is top class.
Cheers buddy, I value your support
More inspiration cheers Pete. Just wondering when doing tall walls do you trigger off and back on at the mid section or keep your trigger on and just reverse the stroke really quick? Cheers
Hi Richard, appreciate the support buddy.. that’s a very good question 👍 ..I always trigger off and on, to be honest I always look to trigger off and on in pretty much all circumstances.. bit like using a roller, work in sections and it will all knit together 😆 ..HSL’s are great examples where spraying is easier that brush / roller.. the need to work off a ladder is greatly reduced.. I’ve got another HSL video coming soon 👌👍😆 ..All the best, keep in touch.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Thanks Pete, I'm having my first go on a bathroom ceiling today so see how that goes. I've also got a freshly skimmed house to have a go at but the ceilings are really high hence why I'm asking as i will have to do the top half of the wall off a step ladder, was thinking of working in square sections as i would with a roller. Top section, then off the ladder then bottom section moving long the wall? Cheers
Richard, hope the bathroom ceiling has gone well.. I like to spray bathroom ceiling, where the walls are fully tiled, you get to mask and create the most sharpest cut line around the grout 👍 ..Sounds a good plan you have to tackle high walls, well done you’re on the right track.. eventually a tip extension will mean you can work off the ground and not need to move a ladder around.. but with using an extension, I’d recommend investing in a cleanshot.. this video features a new range on QuickConnect extensions, worth a look
ruclips.net/video/gIk92gV9wlk/видео.html
Keep in touch my friend 😆 Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ cheers Pete. I'm working my way through all your vids, really good info. Ceiling went on amazingly well. 515 lp tip 1000 psi spraying zinsser Perma white. 1 wall tiles the rest painted paper. Taped and draped the lot, lovely lines when done.
I've ordered an extension and will get a clean shot next week. Would the fan angle still be ok near the top if the wall of I'm still on the ground?
Ah really pleased for you, you’re doing awesome 👌👍😆 ..still work in sections with a tip extension, then with the highest section, you could angle the cleanshot swivel slightly.. text book technique is to keep the gun square / parallel to the surface throughout, it’s good practice to perfect that technique and get it ingrained in you.. but naturally at the bottom of a wall you end up with an angle due to the floor and then at the top, you’re thinking of the ceiling.. basically you do get natural deviations to the technique, that wouldn’t compromise the overall outcome 😆 ..Hope that makes sense.. like I say, you’re doing great my friend 💯 ..regards Pete
hi bud just came across your channel your work is amazing fairplay to you👍😊 , sure do a great job , does people in private houses not mind all the masking taping up ?? any off your customers say be quicker rolling ?? woundering cause spraying 100% better job just taping which takes the time
Hi Niall, ah glad you’ve found the channel, really appreciate the feedback my friend.. that’s a good point you raise about private / occupied houses.. For me it’s not so much different to a manual project, in that each night the work area gets 100% cleaned.. then any masking is hopefully timed so that it’s off at the end of each day.. or to a minimum and it’s discussed with the customer.. I guess each project gets evaluated, often with individual rooms, such as a bedroom, we can get a free run, in that the customer will not be using it.. once your confidence grows, and you get quicker at masking, especially using a hand masker.. you find you can mask a room quicker than cutting in over and over.. then that all said, the walls may still get manually cut and rolled.. for me I spray all ceilings, and woodwork.. then perhaps 8 Or 9 out of 10 the walls are sprayed too.. I’m an advocate in recommending everyone starts by spraying ceilings, then progress from there.. check out this latest video ruclips.net/video/Z1EdRbG8wFc/видео.html ..Just a different take on a project, where a Pressure Roller is used.. but the video shows ceiling being sprayed, and woodwork.. then you’ll see how quick a hand masker can be and the awesome line you get.. I’m happy to help you all I can, feel free to ask questions.. subscribe and keep in touch if you can.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ hey mate thanks for the reply , I worked in Canada for couple of years did alot of spraying. Most all walls were always cut rolled ,ceilings sprayed on high ceilings or new build. But private sector mostly rolled ceilings. All woodwork always sprayed , having sprayed proper good few years trying get back into it , But alot painting contractors still not do much spraying and hard get oportunity to start doing it or practice spraying buddy
You’re very welcome buddy.. I really enjoy hearing about people’s background spraying and their processes.. Especially like Canada, US, Australia, to name just a few.. I see decorative spraying has been way more popular than here in the UK.. we are catching up and embracing the technology now though.. are you still in Canada my friend?
@@PaintHQ yes indeed pal no sadly my family couldn't settle there with the winter months and terrible home sick .I loved the work best job ever had my friend ❤😪 But family come first. From Ireland moved back after Canada work still not great , so we came to the uk , living in southwest region mate 😊👍
Ah I see what you mean, sone fond memories though.. Big warm welcome back to this side of the globe and UK soil.. I wish you plenty of success for you and your family, with your experience and skills I’m sure you’ve got some great things coming your way in the Southwest 👌👏👍❤️💯
Hi) Good video, tell me how much paint is spent on average per 10 meters of the wall. Thank you.) I have a gallon somewhere.
Hello Roman.. Regarding material usage when spraying , It’s inevitable there is waste, because the transfer efficiency of Airless is poor. So you need to allow for the ‘waste’, roughly you’ll use 30-40% more material.. in your example I’m guessing you’ll need more than 1 gallon to spray 2 coats.. hope this helps my friend, keep in touch.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Thank you) I painted the walls in the office, I got such a paint consumption bucket 9 liters per 30 squares, diluted with water somewhere 10%, nozzle Graco fflp 514 at 1200 ppi. Somewhere 1 liter remained in the bucket. Thanks.
Great to see another spraying video from your self. It’s good to see someone out there trying to help others out with out wanting anything in return 👍🏻
I’m thinking of downsizing from a 695 to either a 395 with hopper or a 290 with hopper. Would you be able to give me any advice on both unit pls?
One more question did you ever go on a spraying course and if so would you recommend doing so? I’ve already been spraying for about two years now, but I’m curious if I would learn anything anymore and potentially advance my spraying techniques. Keep the vids coming 💯
Hey my friend, that’s very kind of you to say, very much appreciated.. it’s my pleasure to help any way I can.. With the 395 and models above SmartControl is introduced, where spray pressure is regulated, especially at lower pressures.. the 290 was a more recent introduction in the UK, from what I understand the 290 and 390 share the same pump spec, just that the 290 comes with a paired down gun.. so with the 290 you’re actually getting a good spec for your money.. my reason for choosing the 395 was that I felt it worth spending that bit more for the bigger pump and SmartControl.. but you’ve got power in abundance with the 695, high spec SmartControl and FastFlush / BlueLink (I’m very envious 😆).. The 395 stand mount is quite weighty to manoeuvre in my opinion... I absolutely love the 395 with a hopper, it’s my day in day out workhorse.. but I’m actually considering getting the GX21 and add a hopper (it’s known as a GX21FF).. just for the portability on smaller jobs.. are you in the UK my friend ?.. Could the GX21FF be suitable for you alongside your 696? it’s a very affordable machine, portable and will happily handle any internal spraying jobs and smaller external projects 👍 ..I’ve never been on a spraying training course, I’ve heard all good things about what the PaintTech Training Academy are doing.. sounds like you’re further along though, because you know about the setup, spray tip selection and spray pressures .. not sure if an advanced course is offered.. for me, I have a very analytical mind, stemming from an early career in IT Support 😆 Think it’s helped me learn the ‘art’.. I like the technology behind spraying.. and I want to pass on what I’ve learnt to the good people out there, such as yourself 💯 ..Hope some of this info is helpful, keep in touch, I’m more than happy to help with any questions or problems you encounter.. thanks again for the support.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Thank you forgetting back to me and sorry for the delay.
I’ve had a look at the GX21FF but as I manly work on construction sites the 240v won’t be any good to me as I would need 110v. If I worked more on residential properties then I would consider looking at a smaller set up like the gx21ff.
All of the information you’ve have given me has been great and much appreciated thank you very much for taking the time.
I might consider getting the Graco 290 with hopper to start of with and if I start to pick up more smaller jobs then I mite look at the GX21FF at a later date.
Yes I live in the UK 🇬🇧 down in Kent.
Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming. All the best to you Pete keep spraying 👍🏻
You’re very welcome my friend, anytime you need help or advice, I’ll do my best.. be sure to let me know how you get on 💯 regards Pete
Good stuff. Do you paint the door trim in two steps front then back? I noticed you usually have them paper and taped up for overspray.
Hey Brian.. all but 1 door on this HSL came off and most of the frames were masked using 12” brown paper and only the side that constitutes the HSL was sprayed.. I say most because one frame leading into the kitchen had both sides sprayed, so in that example, no masking and the whole frame is sprayed at the same time.. this is my usual strategy to remove the doors (they get sprayed separately), then mask a ‘hood / shield’ to only spray everything that’s the side of the project.. hope this makes sense, if not feel free to get back to me and I’ll help all I can.. regards Pete
@PaintHQ when painting the stairs etc it's alot less paint than the walls would use. How do you work with that? I have a Wagner 350m, with a big suck tube. Is there a way to use smaller amounts of paint with it, say for stairs etc? Or do I need hvlp pot or something?
Unfortunately that’s a disadvantage of the 250 / 350 units.. the hose orifice and length requires more material.. the fittings are proprietary to ControlPro (for safety), so the hose cannot be swapped out.. plus a hopper improves the feed of small amounts via gravity into the pump.. but again you can’t add a hopper to the ControlPro models..
a professional airless option would be to invest in a Graco Handheld / Cordless unit.. new Graco developments that allow the spraying of small amounts and less waste .. news on this is coming to Europe / EMEA very soon, which I’m excited to share with you once I get the green light.. keep in touch my friend, I’m happy to help and advise all I can.. regards Pete
Good job. From your experience , what is the minimum cubic meter/minute , extractor debit needed.
Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback my friend.. regarding the extractor.. at the time when researching, it seemed a 12” diameter machine was sufficient.. there is smaller options and bigger, but if you go bigger it’s more weight to manoeuvre on and around site, and more cost (ducting costs more).. this is the link below to the Clarke one that I brought from Sitebox (not sure if you’re in the UK), it’s got all the specs listed in the description.
The 5m 12” ducting is extra, you can buy more and link them together if needed.
Also, this does not have the spark protection, so it’s for waterborne materials only.. look into the risks, the explosion risk is a serious issue..
Clarke CAM300B - 12" Portable Ventilator Air Mover / Fume Extractor
www.sitebox.ltd.uk/clarke-cam300b-12-portable-ventilator-air-mover-fume-extractor-240v-oclarke_3230462?paid=googlepaidproducts&gclid=Cj0KCQiAt8WOBhDbARIsANQLp96vXp-lhFF6KwWlyi_0-hsTH4ERbjKjXUEFdr0iqvQEMXTDJFSOelIaArlZEALw_wcB
Hope this helps.. great to have your contribution on the channel.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ wow explosion risk... I do dot imagine that , but you are right.
Ungortunately I am far away even from UK .
I operate now in Romania , and probably we have diffrent brands.
Thank you very much and keep it like that.
It’s great to hear from you in Romania 🇷🇴 ..Keep in touch my friend, I’m happy to help anytime if I can 💯😆
@@PaintHQ Thank you man.
I have a question for you.
I see , im onevofvyour video , that you paint a wall with dark blue . You use a can of 2,4 liters . I see also that you use graco machine with long hose. How do you manage the consumption?? I use graco gx21 with 15 meter hose and I suppose that , if I use 2,5 l of paint I only fill the hose ...
You are using a short hose do not lose paint ?
Thanks.
Ah I think I know what you mean.. the GX21 as standard comes with a 15m 1/4” hose which will take 476ml to ‘prime’ the hose.. I use a 7.5m 3/16” hose, which is a smaller hose in length and diameter.. which takes much less to prime the hose.. 134ml.. you kind of ‘loose’ the paint in the hose.. one ‘trick’ is to use water to ‘chase’ the paint through.. so if you was to run out of paint, not having any more paint to use.. you can follow it through with water, and can continue to spray what’s in the hose.. beware though, eventually you’ll spray the water (very watery paint).. is this what you meant?.. hope it helps and makes sense my friend..
By the way, the GX21 you have is an awesome machine.. in the UK it’s popular to add a hopper (it gets called a GX21FF).. a hybrid of the GXFF (which has an inbuilt hopper) and GX21 😆
Again, hope it helps.. Regards Pete
Hi my friend did you spray the doors in the rooms that we see them placed and if so did you have to cover up Everything
Hey Paul.. good point my friend.. yeah, where you see them is where they were sprayed.. If I recall correct, 3 in the kitchen, then 3 in each (unused) spare bedroom.. 3M plastic was run across each wall with Deltec sensitive and the floor was protected.. only the side of the door which constitutes the HSL was sprayed, so they didn’t need turning round.. each project in an occupied house needs careful evaluation, in 9 out of 10 cases I look to take the doors off, it’s so much easier 😆 The extraction and creating air flow with windows open helps massively with dust/dry fall.. Hope that helps a little my friend.. Any questions, don’t hesitate to ask.. regards Pete 🎨💯
A few questions from an older decorator who has recently bought a sprayer and finding your videos a great help? Did you take all doors off and spray them separately outside? Is the brown masking on the trims enough to stop any overspray going into the other rooms as I noticed you haven’t sheeted any of them? And roughly what is the cost of all the tape and masking for a job of that size? Thanks in advance 👍🏼
Hey Glen, it’s a pleasure to try and help you my friend.. thanks for watching the videos.. yes. 9 times out of 10 I take the doors off, it’s so much easier to mask up and spray both the door and the frame.. I wouldn’t take them outside, it’s tricky in an occupied house, what I’d do is look to plastic off a wall in a couple of ‘spare‘ rooms.. for the doors upstairs, perhaps a spare bedroom and the doors downstairs a dining area (if I recall, that’s what I did in the video with the go ahead from the custoner).. it’s not as bad as it seems, and like I say the area gets protected with plastic and floor protection.. this video demonstrates how I create ‘hoods’ with the 12” paper that acts as a shield when spraying the door frames.. I would put a sheet down, as a precaution in the opposing room.. or a drop of plastic taped from the top of the architrave, it doesn’t need to be taped all round, so you can still walk through.. just acts as another shield behind the brown paper.. the 12” paper does 99% of the work in shielding 👍 ..I don’t recall what I did in the HSL video, sometimes I’ll move sheets around during filming.. with the right choices in masking, it can work out cost effective.. so I’ll use quality Washi tapes for masking critical lines, like Deltec Gold or Tesa Precision (yellow).. then on the Hand Masker, I’ll use a cheaper production / multi purpose tape in conjunction with 12” brown paper or 99” plastic film.. in bulk the paper can work out less than £4 a roll and the production tapes less than £2 a roll.. on a HSL, dependent on the number of doors / rooms, plus masking the stringers / skirtings.. I’m probably using 2 or 3 rolls of paper, give or take.. then a roll of plastic film and a sensitive Washi tape (purple / pink) for masking the ceilings / cut lines (typically small areas)
Here’s the masking a door frame video, if you haven’t already seen it my friend 😆
HACKS for Painting! Hand Masker tips to spray a door frame
ruclips.net/video/Hou34W9qF-E/видео.html
..Happy to help you all I can on your journey, keep in touch.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ cheers Pete, on watching the video a second time I saw the doors all lined up against the wall. 👍🏼 I will watch the video about masking the frame.
I want to have a go at spraying a hsl but was uncertain of the stages. I am use to doing it in reverse the old fashioned way lol. Do you charge more for a spray finish rather than brush and roller ? As it looks as if it would take a little longer!
Many thanks Glen
Hi Pete great video. I've just started spraying not long ago and bought a Wagner 250m. I've noticed it's very temperamental with how thin the paint has to be for it to cycle through constantly. I'm contemplating buying a Graco gx21, do you still have to thin emulsion down for use on walls, ceiling etc? Thanks.
Hey Dan, thanks for the feedback buddy.. great question.. The GX21 is very very good machine and typically no thinning will be required for material to be handled by the pump.. it will handle internal decorative coatings just like the bigger pumps (my 395 for example).. I typically don’t thin when using airless, if I do it’s purely just to ease the material a bit so I can lower the pressure.. AR2 ceiling paint for example, you’ll see in my videos I add a drop of water..... so yeah in answer to your question, the GX21 will not let you down, it will handle typical internal decorative coatings day after day.. I’d like one myself, and I’d save my bigger 395 for really big or external jobs.. I like the look of the new GX21 Cordless 😆
I did a video on the 250m, ruclips.net/video/3Mlzp37Uepg/видео.html - just as a demo.. I liked it, but it’s not marketed / same league as a GX21.. the GX21 is aimed at the professional P&D / that even a DIYer would get the true airless experience 💯 ..Let me know how you get on, keep in touch.. I’m happy to help if I can.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Thanks for the reply Pete. I've just looked at the cordless one after you mentioned it. Not bad for the extra money. I've noticed the gx21 comes with a240v plug not 110 so that's better for me as well. I think I might sell the Wagner 250m(only used it once 😂) and go up to the gx21.
Regarding the Wagner I have. I'm probably not doing something right. I would think paint down 1-9 like on the paint label instructs, spray literally a 12ft wall and all the pressure would go. The motor would kick in and go constantly for ages with no pressure building up. I would turn it off(it was on number 4-5) turn it to prime. Turn it back onto 5 and it will start again as normal. It will constantly do that? (It's a brand new unit not 2nd hand).
Hey Dan, you’re very welcome my friend.. the scenario you describe with the 250m, I have heard of before with that machine.. like you say, having to prime, then build up the pressure again to spray.. it happens like that when you run out of paint, also the suction feed cannot get the last bit out the can (It needs to be submerged and air tight to allow for suction).. it would also happen if the mesh filter on the suction feed is blocked, or the material is just too thick to be able to draw up and prime.. if any of these things were happening the pump would only be able to spray what’s in the machine (primed), when that’s used up, the pump will run fast and be noisy.. however you’ve covered all these ‘problems’, I’m afraid it could be one of the unfortunate negatives about these smaller ‘DIY’ pumps, they just don’t have the ‘guts’... you won’t get that with the GX21 👍😆 ..If I can make a suggestion, look at also getting a hopper for the GX21 (you can purchase a hybrid called a GX21FF).. I rate using a hopper, gravity draws the paint into the pump, pretty much allowing for smaller quantities of material to be sprayed and every last drop.. you won’t get the scenarios I describe above - unless the hopper runs out of paint 🙈
I rate SpraymanUK for the supply of Graco equipment, the team are very friendly and knowledgeable.. I’m not sponsored or paid to say that. In fact I’m on their stand at the P&D trade show in Coventry 23/24 November, it’s a free ticket.. be great to meet you and chat if you’re able to pop by 💯 Regards Pete
I see when you do the ceilings and you plastic sheet the walls, it only comes halfway down. Do you not get overspray on the uncovered areas?
Hey buddy.. that’s a very good question.. the plastic I use is 99” which is ceiling to floor in average rooms (covers and protects freshly painted trim too).. HSL is trickier in that the height of the stairway.. I wouldn’t want to run another line of plastic, it’s not necessary.. a tip I do, is don’t smooth the plastic on long drops, leave the bottom ‘scruffy’, it will create a hood / barrier to catch any dry fall from the ceiling.. coupled with the low pressure HEA 515, it sprays so clean, little bounce back.. I’ve never been concerned the overspray would extend the plastic.. great question my friend.. I’m always happy to help if I’m able to 💯 ..regards Pete
@@PaintHQ no problem. Another question. Hea tips or fflp? Guess they both the same thing ?
Yeah very similar LP (low pressure) is Graco’s brand and HEA is Wagners equivalent.. for walls / ceiling I’m swaying more and more to HEA (in particular the 515).. for woodwork / trim, I tend to use Graco FFLP 👌👍😆
The speed using a 210 scares me a bit would a 208 be ok or will it mess with the finish
Good question my friend.. The viscosity of Otex Akva and Helmi is relatively high (thick), it would take some forcing through an .008 tip.. I believe the Helmi data sheet, states a .013.. I typically spray ‘decorative’ woodwork coatings with a .010 tip.. I get your thinking, but just think of the choice of tip size based on the thickness (viscosity) of the paint.. yes if the material viscosity is low (thin) and you fire it through a .010 - .013 tip, it will flow quick. But if you match the tip size to the material, it doesn’t come out as fast as you think.. Although airless spraying is quick technology, you typically move the gun fast.. Especially on any area that could get hit multiple times.. spindles, top corner sections of door frames / architrave 😊 ..Hope that helps a little, and I’ve worded it so it makes some sense 😆 ..I’m sure you’re doing great my friend.. keep in touch, and ask for help anytime 👍
@@PaintHQ great reply very friendly
Love the videos usually I prefer with voiceover but this was great to watch. How long was it between coats?
Thank you Sam, you’re a star 👍
Thanks for the support buddy, great to hear from you again.. Approx 2 hours.. whilst I’m not in a rush, I try to push the boundaries with drying times if I’m ready to go again 👍 ..Hope you’re having plenty of success my friend 💯
Hiya Pete, I've just come back to this video to check out the fan, I may need one soon. I take it there's no filters as such? Once the over spray is in the air it's pretty much dry as the particles are so small, am I right? So when it's drawn into the fan it's just dust? Cheers bud, Stu
Hey Stu, yeah you’re absolutely right.. just dry particles, no filter required.. I keep an eye on what’s coming out of the conduit outside, if any amount you can put a dust sheet down.. I find most dust ends up in the conduit and building up in the fan housing (it’s not a problem).. only thing to consider, if you will be spraying solvent based, it will be wise to pay more and go for the anti-explosion one 👍 ..Get back to me if you need anything else clarifying.. regards Pete 😆
You definitely don't need a fan ive never had one your just useing the wrong tip alot of guys use a 517 and are spraying to far away from the ceiling ends up like a 🍄 cloud goes everywhere..
@@JONO3679 I'm yet to test my sprayer out on walls & ceilings. I should've used it yesterday really, boarded, plastered & insulated a small garage ceiling, decided to roller it, as I thought about the time taken covering things etc.
That'd be an interesting comparison video actually Pete, I'm sure there's already others out there, but if you have a similar sized room, start to finish, roller vs spraying after the masking etc. I'm sure it does still work out quicker & much easier to walk around spraying then back & forth with a roller.
I'm currently spraying in a gazebo as I don't have the space to spray where I'm drying. If I'm spraying a panel then it's inevitable you'll get the 'overspray' when coming off the end, the same with spraying the edges, fan width will be much wider than the edge. So I wondered about getting a fan for this scenario.
Hope you're all keeping well? Speak soon, cheers, Stu
@JONO3679 The use of an extractor is typically for spraying woodwork/ trim.. the dust / dry fall isn’t down to tip size or technique.. the atomisation of a primer or top coat is so fine, the dust can land on your freshly sprayed finish, spoiling it and travel around the property.. these extractors can refresh the air in an average sized room approx 5 times in one hour.. it’s just another tool that can help get that dust / dry fall out of the house 👍👌😆
Hey Stu.. great to hear from you my friend.. sounds like you’re doing some really nice work 💯 ..well done 👌👍😆
Great video idea, I’ll make a note.. hope you’re keeping well too buddy.. regards Pete
Lovely job Pete. Looked a bit tricky though. Quick question, when using the 3m film, does it have to cover ceiling to floor completely? Only asking as I have some ceilings over 3 metres ceiling to floor.
Thanks for another great video. Cheers Allan.
Ah great to hear from you Allan.. No, it’s not essential to cover the whole wall.. just gives peace of mind if skirting is covered, you know nothing bouncing off the ceiling is hitting your fresh paint work.. often you just can’t get the coverage, like your example and HSL etc.. what I do is, when pulling the plastic down and opening it up, keep it bunched up and ‘scruffy’ at the bottom.. so not clinging to the wall.. the bunched up plastic at the bottom will create a protective barrier.. the 3M plastic has a static effect too that helps attract any dust.. I personally don’t use extra plastic or paper, it’s not worth the time and using precious material.. just wipe over your skirting with a damp cloth when finished.. if it was to hit the skirting it will only be a dry fall, nothing major that will harm the finish.. hope that makes sense 😆 Keep in touch my friend.. you’re smashing it and doing great work, bet you’re feeling really pleased with yourself.. keep going 💯😆
@@PaintHQ thanks Pete, will give that a go, it’s always great advice you give. Thank you.
And yes, really enjoying it, something new every day, and slowly getting better. Cheers Allan.
How many days do you spend preparing
and cleaning?
Hello my friend, thanks for your question.. on average 1-2 days, a HSL project such as this 2 days (it may of ran into a 3rd, there was lots of doors / door frames).. great question.. keep in touch.. regards Pete 🎨💯
Do you have to sand the stringer before finishing it, from the fall that landed on it when you sprayed the spindless?
Hey Matt, yes good point.. areas such as stringers like you say.. the handrail / bannister and skirting / baseboards that could suffer from fall out from spraying so many areas.. all get checked, sanded / wiped and deliberately sprayed last on the final coat.. just to lay on the nicest / heaviest coat that dries down lovely.. great point my friend, thanks for raising 👏👍
@@PaintHQ many ways of working. I prefer to place the curtain behind the sprayed balusters made out of cartoon, correx etc.
Blessings.
Very true.. I value your input, great to share processes 💯 best regards Pete 🎨
I see you use the 5.15 HEA Tip for walls and ceiling could I ask would it be worth the investment for me to do the same as I have FFLP in 5.14 do you find the HEA sprays better or at a lower pressure and that extraction set up interest me a great deal I’ll have to look into that for sure….thanks again for another great video Pete.
Good question buddy.. I’d say I’m able to lower the pressure by around 500 psi Vs a LP515 tip.. when I spray a ceiling, it’s so clean, very little bounce back (going on me and in my eyes) 😊 ..I’m finding I’m liking the HEA 515 more and more.. The extractor is great, especially on larger projects in occupied homes.. this HSL comprised of 10 doors.. when you see me open the window in one of the bedrooms at the start, it’s to create a draw/flow of air.. that helps too.. if you ever have any questions on extractors or anything else, you always know you can ask anytime.. or if my reply doesn’t make sense, just keep on asking.. take care buddy 👍 I appreciate your support Simon 💯
how u mask the crownmolding?
In the UK it’s common that the crown moulding is sprayed white with the ceiling, so the ceiling cut line is masked just below the moulding .. if a different colour to ceiling it’s just another step to the process and another layer of masking where you mask your new position.. regards Pete
Quick question Pete,what are the mixing ratio's for prepping the paint for spraying?..I have a Titan 440 impact and not used that much as overspray was horrendous of which was down to user error..thanks again mate 👍👊
Hello my friend, you’re welcome to ask questions anytime 👍 .first of all, you have an excellent machine there, real workhorse.. it’s time to put it to work and earn its keep 😆 ..I typically don’t thin paints with airless spraying.. with the right tip selection, pressure and technique, you can minimise the overspray.. If I add water, it will only be a drop and because I know the material will benefit from a little easing.. I want to help you get back into spraying, once your confidence grows, you won’t look back.. perhaps start with ceilings, I’m a big fan of the HEA 515 tip, it will go straight into your Titan guard.. depending on the material and conditions your pressure will be somewhere around 1400 - 1700 psi.. start at 1200 and spray a test on brown paper.. most my videos you’ll see me spray into brown paper on the floor.. aim for about 12 inches away, keeping the gun square to the surface.. if you don’t get a solid fan pattern with soft feathered edges, turn up the pressure to 1400 and keep going fron there, until you hit the sweet spot..
I’m guessing fron what you’ve said, your pressure was too high and / or you was too close and maybe not keeping the gun square.. too much pressure and too close, the material bounces back off the surface, making a mess and wasting material ☹️ ..Don’t give up, you’ll get there and I’ll help you all I can 💯 Regards Pete 🎨💯
Cual tienda exactamente?
aquí está mi amigo, espero que esto ayude .. www.tikkurila.co.uk/
oh men stop posting videos like this lol, you making me buying a spryer and have a ago. love the finish on the videos and i love the fact i can't see flashing atoll. well done mate keep up with the 1 class work and the videos.
Ah that’s so kind of you to say my friend.. you can do it too!. Anything I can do to help or advise, please don’t hesitate to ask.. I’m there for you every step of the way 💯 ..Keep in touch Flavio.. thanks for the support.. regards Pete ..Ps which country are you from, if you don’t mind me asking 😆
@@PaintHQ I'm just about to finish this en-suit loft conversion and tbh I'm not looking to start painting due the angles and pitch, after numerous videos i got in contact with direct spray and I'm looking in to the gracco ffx trim package. This job is looking so good, needs to be finish with very good quality paint work. New plaster new doors etc etc...therefore why im looking in spraying. no problem on making questions mate .... i am on the channel islands jersey.
Ah lovely, an old friend of mine lived in Jersey back in the 80s, he said they were the best years of his life 🙂 .. This video is a loft conversion with the angles, all sprayed.. not sure if you’ve seen it yet.. ruclips.net/video/Q0PYzz3273Q/видео.html
The GX range of Graco sprayers are excellent, will easily handle projects such yours.. I personally like the GX21FF (it’s a hybrid of the GXFF / GX21).. basically it’s a GX21 with a hopper kit, you can quickly swap between hopper and siphon modes.. the original creators of this concept and in my opinion the best version, was created by SpraymanUK.. if you’re able to, I whole heartily recommend you give them a call (I’m not sponsored in any way 😆).. their customer service and product knowledge is first class.. let me know what you think to the video, hope it helps in some way and keep in touch, I’ll help you to spray 😆 Regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Hi Pete, i have seen the video before thank you for the link anyway, jersey i way different know than used to be back on 80's.however i only been here since 2004
and i can tell the difference since then. jersey become tax heaven for some but for others just a open door prison. have said that i rather be here than anywhere else for now, geographically is such a lovely island!!!. I will get in contact with spraymanuk, thank you for you help and take the time to replay my comments not very common on youtube. best regards
You’re very welcome.. lovely talking to you.. keep in touch my friend 💯👍👌😆
How long did that take to do ?
Hey David.. 5 days in total on site my friend.. Great to hear from you, thanks for the support 💯 Pete
Hi Pete, hope you are well. Done a load of woodwork today along with spindles for the first time. Primed with Otex Akva which sprayed really well then top coat of jobnstones aquaguard which caused a couple of problems. I had a 208 fflp tip running at 200psi and was getting a lot of spits. I thinned the paint by around 5% and fully cleaned out the system before trying again, seems to have significantly reduced the spits but still just below 200 psi and unfortunately I got a couple of runs. When i finished the first top coat I qas cleaning out the system for the night and noticed when I triggered off when cleaning with water it continued to spray at a reduced rate, could this mean that the needle and spring needs a strip down clean? The gun has only done around 30 litres of paint since new? Cheers
Hi Richard, great to hear you’ve had success spraying spindles.. Johnstones Aqua and Aqua Guard can be problematic to spray, I’ve heard others say it’s not really geared for spraying.. but sounds like you got it spraying, well done 👍..200 psi sounds very low, I’d have expected you to be at least 800 psi (low pressure tip).. remind me, which sprayer you have my friend.. regarding the gun, you’re right you shouldn’t be having problems this soon.. the problem you describe does point to packing desks being worn or clogged with paint.. was the guard still on?.. just wondering if the tip guard seat / seal is not installed correctly (would explain slitting when spraying).. hopefully all just a glitch and after your clean out all will be ok.. hope this helps a little.. well done on your spraying success, keep me posted buddy.. regards Pete
Ball and seat stripped and cleaned, paint warmed and now spraying lovely at 1600 mo spits
Ah lovely my friend 👌👏👍
💚
Brilliant pete i dont have extractor fan. do u still think its possible to spray occupied house or is the fan a must ? Cheers mate great to see u back with another video i really enjoy them
Hey Mick.. really appreciate your kind words of support my friend 💯 ..No, portable extraction is not essential,, when spraying a large project, it just gives that extra layer of assistance in getting the dust out the air, off surfaces and off the sprayed woodwork.. one tip, if you’re not using an extractor is open a window at the furthest point to create a draw in the air.. with an extractor the draw in the air is more noticeable.. in this video, I open a bedroom window at the start.. So yeah, not essential, with or without I still plastic off nearby areas.. with an extractor, you’ll find those areas are cleaner and the cleanup at the end of each day is less.. hope that makes sense and helps a little.. if ever you’re thinking of an extractor, I’ll help you.. any other questions, don’t ever hesitate to ask away.. I’ll always do my best.. regards Pete
Hey Dewi.. that’s a very good point.. no it’s not a myth, if using solvent based materials, a spark proof / explosion proof extractor is recommended.. I believe the units are earth grounded and have technology so any explosive volatile gasses don’t come into contact with anything that could cause ignition as they pass through the fan.. in my case here I was spraying waterborne products so it wasn’t an issue 😆 ..great point my friend, thank you for raising 👏👍👌 Keep in touch and feel free to ask questions anytime.. Regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thanks pete. Can i ask do u ever spray oilbased through your sprayer? Im in Ireland and the tikkurila is hard to come by where i am . So I've been using coverstain on varnished wood that is being painted. But ive only brushed and rolled . On a recent job i had 12 doors going from varnish to satin . I wished I could have sprayed them but was told waterbased products not as good as coverstain or bin for tannin and bleed and i was concerned to spray these products in an occupied house. Any suggestions? Thanks mate
You’re very welcome.. I see what you mean.. BIN is definitely the standard solution if tannin bleed is feared.. for water based, you possible could use 123 as long as knots are not the problem.. I guess 123 followed by a spot prime of BIN sprayed out of a rattle can could work.. Do you have a HVLP / XVLP solution at all.. if spraying BIN, I’d tend to go that route, more control, sprays a smaller quantity, low viscosity very much suited to HVLP.. fast cleanup with Methylated Spirits.. BIN would go through airless nicely with a .08 tip and cleanup with Meths but it would come out quick.. I pretty much spray waterborne materials through the airless 👍 I’m by no means suggesting to purchase more spray equipment.. I know it can all be very confusing, I want to help you find solutions and gain confidence to spray 💯 I could speak to my Tikkurila rep about shipping to Ireland, if that’s a possibility when ordering via the website.. my orders get shipped to me. I only use Anti Reflex 2 on ceilings so I order quite often.. I’ll ask for you if you’re interested in Tikkurila, could always get my rep to speak to you 😆 ..Keep going my friend.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thanks so much pete. Yeh i guess i want to spray when it comes to painting over varnished trim because im finding it very time consuming by hand and people dont realise just how much work is in it and and therefore cant justify the price. Im nervous about spraying oilbased in occupied homes 😂 thats why I need to find a waterbased system thats reliable. Im really only getting goin pete so i wouldn't be ordering regularly enough to justify you asking your rep but i do really appreciate your kind offer. Can i ask if you ever spray exterior render? It seems the consensus here is that painters only use sprayer for pebble dash. But i think it would save so much time to spray? Is there an issue with adhesion or coverage or am i missing something? 😂 sorry for so many questions but i want to get advice from people who really are excellent at what they do. Thanks again pete
Another great video man! 👏🏼 What determines you spraying walls too? Spraying woodwork - yes, ceilings - yes. But time wise on masking up etc for spaying walls, not to mention masking up when you spray ceilings after walls, wouldn’t it be more worthwhile brush and rollering? I’m curious 😄
Hey Josh, great question buddy.. I’ve just found myself, more and more including the walls in the process.. whereas at first I sprayed the ceiling, then the woodwork and cut and rolled the walls.. I guess I assess every job and question, can I spray everything.. once you quicken up the process, the hand maskers help, it’s worth it for the finished result.. high stair wells like you get with HSL are so much easier.. once masked, I can do it all from the ‘ground’ using the gun extension.. I only went up the ladder once to mask off the ceiling, that’s easier off a ladder than cutting in, where sometimes you’re having to stretch with the brush.. with practice with taping, you can find your line and pretty much push the tape along in the straightest of lines.. I agree, good cutting in skills are a must but the line you get from a masked ceiling is just precision 👌💯 ..Then if you get the pulling of the masking right, that too can be done off the ground without a ladder.. just so much less labour intensive, and awesome result 👌 ..Very good question my friend, I appreciate your input and support.. take care.. regards Pete 🎨💯
would be silly not to spray out the big areas once its masked .thats the whole point of spraying.. and masking a few windows and doors would probably take 3 hours.. then 2 hours to seal it...
You should start at the bottom of the stairs so you dont get overspray on the work
Thank you for watching my friend, and I appreciate your input.. keep in touch.. regards Pete
Mate why Graco 395, not 390?
Hey buddy.. good question 👍 a 290 / 390 are basically the same pump / spec, with a maximum tip size of 0.021.. The 290 is more recent in the UK and cheaper because it comes with a cheaper spec gun.. so if I’d wanted the 390, knowing I was using a Contractor gun, I’d have actually purchased the 290.. whereas the 395 is a spec up.. bigger pump, max tip size 0.023, more guts to spray external masonry.. and the 395 comes with a useful feature.. SmartControl, which regulates pressure, especially at low pressures.. useful if going Air Assisted Airless 😆 ..Hope this helps explain.. the 395 is a great machine, a workhorse that will not miss a beat.. Do any of these sprayers interest you my friend? Keep in touch, great to have you contributing to the channel.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ yes I'm planning to buy one. 390 is lighter and cheaper. But I have no idea how the smart control works and is it really helpful. Thinking that it might be really useful when doing bannisters or cabinets. But it 5kg and 250£ on top
Yeah the 395 is certainly heavy to manoeuvre, I guess it’s the extra ‘guts’ adding to the weight.. could a GX21FF be an alternative option to consider?.. just depends on your workload.. the GX21FF is basically a GX21 with a finishing (hopper) kit, that you can quickly switch between siphon and hopper mode.. the hopper along with the 7.5mtr 3/16” hose, is perfect for spraying smaller quantities when refinishing cabinetry etc.. the 7.5mtr line cones as part of the GX21FF bundle.. The GX21 itself takes up to a 0.021 tip, aimed at the decorative sprayer it will work hard for you, all day if you needed.. whereas the 290 / 390 has a bit more guts if you was wanting to work it harder, all day, every day.. if you have a chat with Mike at SpraymanUK, he could explain further.. like I say the 290 / 390 are the same workings, you pay more because of the gun upgrade.. my recommendation though is treat yourself to a Graco Contractor Compact Gun, at the moment it comes with a 1/8” whip hose.. highly recommended for manoeuvrability, it’s an awesome gun.. Sorry, I’m not a salesman by any means and not sponsored by SpraymanUK, I’m just trying to help my friend 😆 .I do rate the GX21FF, in fact I’m looking at getting one myself and save the 395 for really big projects / externals ..Let me know if I can help some more, either way keep in touch and let me know what you decide.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thanks a lot. Huge amount of useful information. Cabinets are so rare now to be honest but summer houses or outside walls is pretty common. I'm doing new build houses now mostly and bit of everything on private jobs. So choosing something universal. And was thinking between 390 and 395. After some reviews got dilemma cause people kind of prefer 390... I mean 395 is not heavier than transformer anyway :)))
You’re very welcome, I can appreciate it’s a big decision to make the right choice for your needs.. what I can say, you won’t go wrong with the build quality of the Graco Professional pumps.. I’ve only ever heard good reports on the longevity of both the GX and Classic PC range 👏👍
Why did you mask down the stairs...
Not sure what you mean my friend.. everything was sprayed on this project and masked off after each stage.. woodwork / trim.. walls ..and finally the ceiling 👍
@@PaintHQ you masked of the steps.. seems pointless when its covered by the carpet
Hey buddy.. it was an occupied property, so the carpet was already fitted.. plastic carpet protector was laid and the 12” brown paper was used to mask the stringers / woodwork ..Hope you’re keeping well my friend 👍 regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Hi Pete, I have watched your videos, they are brilliant and you make spaying look effortless! I purchased a Wagner HEA 350M skid a long time ago and not had much practice yet. I am going to start spraying the woodwork and paneling ( I recently fitted) in my HSL. I have primed the Mdf paneling with Johnston's Acrylic primer. I used a 311 tip and just purchased a 211 tip for finish coat. What type of result would I get using the 211 tip. I am DIY'er.
Hi Aby, really appreciate you watching the videos and your kind words of support.. always great to hear from a DIYer, you have a great machine in the 350M, it’s a very popular sprayer on this channel..
I feel you’ll get the best results with a HEA ProTip (Purple) fine finish tip... Check out this video
ruclips.net/video/8APgip0-5J8/видео.html
Just one pointer using any 208, 210, 211 tip.. excellent choice for spindles 👌 but move quick.. the concentrated / narrow fan will let out more paint than the wider tips..
In the above video description, I’ve included the link to the AkzoNobel Topcoat I use, bring low viscosity sprays lovely through a 208 / 308 tip at low pressure (speed 2 if I recall).. for a beautiful satin cabinet like feel.. there’s a discount code you could use if you was wanting to try it 🙏👍😆 ..there’s also links to the tip guard and professional fine finish tips that I’m referring to..
Hope this helps my friend.. good luck and please let me know how you get on.. happy to help and advise if I can.. regards Pete
👋👋👋
Thank you brother 💯
@@PaintHQ hello there, can you help me out. Recently purchased xvlp 5000. Began first job on a front door, used the fine finish cannister with fb, water based, all-white goss. Thinned down paint, set material gauge at 6 and air at seven. Paint released however was a very heavy output with intermittent spurting ...
Any thoughts? Did warm up the turbine, think I should have lowered material gauge, likewise, maybe I shouldn't have watered-down fb paint in fine finish cannister...
Love to hear any pointer!
In the end went back to brushing the paint out and laying it off🤒🥺😣
Also, the "fine feed tube filter"(red..) wasn't attached...
Thanks
Hey Beija.. it’s my pleasure to help you my friend.. the XVLP is a great machine, with the extra air, decorative materials will spray, just takes a bit of tweaking.. first of all, warning the paint really can help by lowering the viscosity.. just submerge the metal pot with the gun attached in hot water.. (you can buy screw on lids for the pot).. a drop of Floetrol (a paint conditioner) added to the paint helps too.. then with the symptoms you describe, try lowering the material setting, then potentially increasing the air.. decorative materials will need a bit more air to break up and atomise the paint.. I’m sure you’ve done a great job my friend, keep up the good work.. let me know how you get on and feel free to ask questions anytime 👍👏😊 Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ thanks so, so much... gonna take the turbine from the client's address back home and play around with it... recently brought it, immediately used it at a client's project: crazy man I am! ...felt like giving up the ghost 👻 ....however I've seen your successes and believe in your honest explanation...let the game begin...
Blessings to you
Why not do.ceiling first and work.your way down
Are you painting stairs or invading Iraq?
😂😂😂💙💯
@@PaintHQ The music...
Yeah I know my friend - my production style has always been unique and a little dramatic in the past - my latest videos are less dramatic, hopefully more informative and entertaining - check out
Graco Ultra QuickShot Unboxing. Ultra QuickShot REVIEW, SETUP & DEMO
ruclips.net/video/yYNt1RXkgNg/видео.html
@@PaintHQ Have you thought about the 1st Air Cav? I can send you a link...🆘