Volvo T6 3.0L SI6 XC60 S60 alternator replacement

Alternator replacement done on a 2011 Volvo XC60 T6 with the 3.0L engine.
0:00 Intro
0:05 Disconnect battery
0:20 Intake Manifold removal
2:44 Alternator connections
4:01 Alternator mounting bolts
4:12 READ bolt
4:22 Line up pins (make sure they are not interfering with fitment)
4:33 Install Alternator & connections
5:13 Intake manifold reinstallation
6:41 Reconnect battery
This is a straight forward job, and can be done with very basic hand tools. Will save you a good chunk of money from the shop, and especially the dealer.
Original alternator wasn’t charging and stunk when the car was running. Also was ridiculously hot when running. Got a used unit from the junkyard.
Couple things, before condemning the alternator, make sure the bolt holding on the pulley is tight. There have been documentation of charging problems because this bolt was loose.
Intake manifold seals will likely need to be replaced.
Hopefully this helps someone out!

[@SiroccoSeven]

Please keep up the good work! I love your disassemble and replacement videos. It’s far easier than reading manuals.

[@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts]

Thanks! I really appreciate it! I'll try to record more things I run into.

[@fernandoromera8475]

Excelente tutorial ,me digas uma coisa se desligar o polo negativo nao desprograma a central e o carro nao liga mais

[@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts]

Olá, não falo português. Usei o google tradutor para escrever isso.
Não, você não precisa reprogramar nada depois de desconectar o terminal negativo da bateria.
Desculpe por responder tarde

[@SterlingSigurdsen]

What alternator did you use? I have now gone through 4 alternators and none of them are pushing the 14.4 volts you were reading. The first two were NAPA and now I’m on my second Oreily’s. Also my mechanic only charged me for 1.4 hours but Volvo says it’s a 5 hour job. Why the huge difference in labor?

[@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts]

The alternator I used was a used OEM 180 amp unit from a wreck yard. I used car-part.com to find it. The website just searches junkyards in your area. OEM Volvo alternators are made by Bosch. There are two options different options for alternators, a 150 amp unit, and a 180 amp unit. If the 150 amp unit is used in place of an 180 amp, it might explain why the alternator is failing prematurely, so just double check what part was installed in your vehicle.
Have you or your mechanic double check your battery as well.
Double check that the bolt is tight at 4:13. There is documentation that this bolt will back out and results in the alternator not spinning. Retighten with thread locker.
Unfortunately I don't have a good answer on the difference of labor. It certainly doesn't take 5 hours to remove & replace the alternator. Your mechanic's labor of 1.4 hours sounds a lot more reasonable.

[@SterlingSigurdsen]

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts I did put in a 180 amp this time from Oreily's, but still seems to be under 14 volts, it actually bounces around from low 13's to 14.1-4. The battery is brand new and is a AGM Everstart Platinum battery. Is it possible the ECM is not communicating correctly with the voltage meter on the alternator? Do the Bosh/Volvo alternators communicated better to the ECM?

[@phitanvo4767]

Do you have the specs for the 4 bolts and the 7 bolts?

[@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts]

I do not have the torque specs for the alternator. I don't think its very high though, they just need to hold the alternator on. Sorry!
I only could find the 7 bolts for the intake manifold. Which is 12.5 ft lbs. I would tighten them from the middle out.

[@Smokeycam1]

How do I disconnect the throttle body. Is it a pinch clamp?

[@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts]

The electrical connector on the throttle body is a pinch clamp. If they're stuck, you can try to push the connector the opposite way from removing to free up any debris to remove the connector. Another way is to physically lift up the locking tab with a screwdriver while pulling down on the connector, which is what I did.
The rubber pipe going to the throttle body is a worm gear clamp, which can be loosened with a 7mm socket/wrench. Twisting the rubber pipe should break the seal off the throttle body and should allow you to pull it off easily.
Hope this helps!

[@Smokeycam1]

@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts Sir, I can't begin to express my appreciation. I was able to remove the alternator. I could spin the pulley, but when I stopped it, the does not freewheel. Is this a sign of a defect?

[@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts]

@@Smokeycam1 It does sound like the alternator pulley is defective. When the decoupler pulley is stopped the alternator should be able to freewheel to compensate for change of engine RPMs.

[@Smokeycam1]

When you clean the mating surface of the manifold, do you use soap or a solvent?

[@Smokeycam1]

Also, do you ever re-use the silicone ring gaskets?