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Possibly Useful Automobile info
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Добавлен 10 июл 2023
I post stuff related to cars. Mostly repairs that I run into. I try to make them straight forward with no fluff!
2001-2005 B6 Audi A4 rear shock replacement
Rear shock replacement done on a 2004 Audi A4 1.8T. Simple job!
0:00 Intro
0:06 Lift up vehicle
0:17 Remove fender liner
1:21 Support rear suspension
1:29 Removing the shock absorber
2:34 Assemble shock absorber
3:53 Installing shock absorber
5:51 Reinstall fender liner
I used this kit:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-shock-kit-sachs-8e0513036aekt
Tools
Floor jack & jack stands
T25 torx bit
21mm wrench
16 mm wrench
Vise grip
13mm & 21mm socket
Breaker bar & ratchet
Torque wrench
Specs
26 ft lbs shock top mounting bolt
118 ft lbs + 90 degrees bottom mounting bolt
0:00 Intro
0:06 Lift up vehicle
0:17 Remove fender liner
1:21 Support rear suspension
1:29 Removing the shock absorber
2:34 Assemble shock absorber
3:53 Installing shock absorber
5:51 Reinstall fender liner
I used this kit:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-shock-kit-sachs-8e0513036aekt
Tools
Floor jack & jack stands
T25 torx bit
21mm wrench
16 mm wrench
Vise grip
13mm & 21mm socket
Breaker bar & ratchet
Torque wrench
Specs
26 ft lbs shock top mounting bolt
118 ft lbs + 90 degrees bottom mounting bolt
Просмотров: 143
Видео
2001-2006 Acura MDX rear shock replacement
Просмотров 258Месяц назад
Rear shock replacement done on a 2005 Acura MDX. Probably similar to newer MDX & Honda Pilots. Rear shocks were leaking for some time. Easy DIY! 0:00 Intro 0:05 Lift vehicle 0:28 Remove wheel 0:43 Remove old shock 1:32 Install new shock 3:36 Reinstall wheel Tools: - Floor jack & jack stands - 17 mm & 19 mm socket - Breaker bar & ratchet - Torque wrench * Impact wrench not needed but it makes li...
2006-2007 Subaru Impreza WRX 4 pot front brake service
Просмотров 694 месяца назад
Front pads & rotors done a 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX. This service can be done with simple hand tools. 0:00 Intro 0:04 Remove hardware 1:14 Remove brake pads 1:44 Remove caliper bolts 2:43 Remove brake rotor 2:50 compress caliper 3:26 Clean up hub 3:32 Antiseize 3:44 Clean new rotor with brake clean 4:18 Reinstall caliper 4:40 Reinstall pads 5:07 Reinstall hardware Tools I used - Flat head screwd...
2001-2006 Acura MDX Transfer Case Fluid Change / Service
Просмотров 3275 месяцев назад
2001-2006 Acura MDX Transfer Case service. This was done on a 2005 Acura MDX. Might be similar to a Honda pilot of similar years. 0:00 Intro 0:07 Loosen fill plug, then drain 0:29 Drain fluid 0:55 Clean drain & fill plugs. 1:13 Reinstall drain plug 1:34 Fluid 1:52 Fill 2:16 Reinstall fill plug 2:33 Clean Tools needed: Drain pan 3/8 ratchet Fluid transfer pump (I used one from Harbor Freight) 3/...
2001-2006 Acura MDX Rear Differential Fluid Change / Service
Просмотров 3265 месяцев назад
2001-2006 Acura MDX rear differential. Service was done on a 2005 Acura MDX. Might be similar to the Honda Pilot of similar years. 0:00 Intro 0:06 Loosen fill plug 0:19 Loosen drain plug 0:28 Drain fluid 0:45 Removal fill plug 1:24 Inspect hardware 1:56 Clean drain plug magnet & reinstall 2:20 Fluid 2:52 Fill differential 3:16 Reinstall fill plug 3:50 Clean Tools needed: Drain pan 3/8 ratchet 3...
2002-2005 Audi B6 A4 1.8T Oil change
Просмотров 4447 месяцев назад
Oil change performed on a 2004 Audi A4 B6 1.8T (AMB) engine. A basic service that will help you save money and help you car last a long time! 0:00 Intro 0:06 Materials needed & tools 0:29 Lift vehicle up 0:40 Open hood 1:10 Drain oil 2:03 Oil filter 2:59 Prefill oil filter 3:31 Install oil filter 3:45 Add oil 4:10 Run car and quality check 4:26 Check oil Tools needed: 19mm socket & ratchet OR 1...
Volvo T6 3.0L SI6 XC60 S60 alternator replacement
Просмотров 3,6 тыс.8 месяцев назад
Alternator replacement done on a 2011 Volvo XC60 T6 with the 3.0L engine. 0:00 Intro 0:05 Disconnect battery 0:20 Intake Manifold removal 2:44 Alternator connections 4:01 Alternator mounting bolts 4:12 READ bolt 4:22 Line up pins (make sure they are not interfering with fitment) 4:33 Install Alternator & connections 5:13 Intake manifold reinstallation 6:41 Reconnect battery This is a straight f...
2008-2016 P3 Volvo XC60 3.0l air filter and MAF removal
Просмотров 23510 месяцев назад
Quick video to remove the mass air flow sensor and air filter from a 2011 XC60. Likely similar to other P3 Volvos with the same engine. Hope this helps!
1993-1998 Toyota T100 Clock spring replacement
Просмотров 24510 месяцев назад
Horn and cruise control weren’t working on a 1995 Toyota T100. So I replaced the clock spring and everything is working! I sourced the part from a junkyard as it’s discontinued from Toyota. 0:00 Intro 0:05 Airbag removal 1:03 Steering wheel removal 1:48 Steering column cover 2:24 Clock spring removal When installing the clock spring turn it until it stops (don’t force it). Then you can turn it ...
1992 Gen 2 Mitsubishi Montero not shifting into overdrive
Просмотров 2,4 тыс.10 месяцев назад
Gen 2 1992 Mitsubishi Montero not shifting into overdrive. Might be similar to other v6 Monteros. 3.0L 12 valve v6 4x4 After digging around some forums, there is supposed to be an audible click from the relay when you turn on/off overdrive. My relay wasn’t engaging because the coolant temp sensor was faulty, or the thermostat was allowing the engine to run too cool. So a solution is to simply g...
2008-2016 P3 Volvo XC60 T6 3.0l turbo Catalytic Converter / Down pipe replacement
Просмотров 8 тыс.Год назад
Catalytic converter replacement done on a 2011 Volvo XC60 with the 3.0l inline 6 engine. This procedure will likely be similar to any P3 Volvo with the same engine. Time stamps: 0:00 Intro 0:16 Cowl removal 1:21 Battery & ECM harness 2:16 Cover removal 2:38 air box 3:30 Turbo inlet 4:30 Upstream o2 4:38 Heat shield 5:00 Down pipe bolts & bracket 5:11 Underneath car 6:19 Upstream o2 6:34 Propell...
Volvo XC60 hood cable replacement overview
Просмотров 5 тыс.Год назад
While swapping the engine on this 2011 Volvo XC60, the hood cable decided to not play nice and required replacement. Hood cables already installed but hopefully some will find this useful. I believe this applies to any P3 chassis Volvo.
Thanks for the video it was very helpful
Helped us a lot. Our cable was damaged on the left side latch and it wouldn't release. We removed the grill (wedging a flat butter knife wrapped in electric tape not to damage the paint), put the knife/flat tool in between bumper and grill and slowly release the clips of the grill while pulling gently on the grill so it won't pop back. Then we removed the plastic cover covering the hood latch (just pull it very slowly, it is not clipped onto anything). Once plastic cover is removed, use an angled pick tool to pull the small lever under the latch and it will release the lock. We tried using a whole bunch of tools, the trick is that it must be an angled sharp tool as there is not enough space around the bottom of the latch to lever the release mechanism, so use a 90 degree angled tool so you can exert enough pressure.
Great video! How do you replace the READ seal on the alternator side?
Thanks! Helped me alot
This video was super helpful, but that last (4th) catalyst flange-to-turbo bolt was a nightmare. Took me a couple of hours to get it loose. Had to use all kinds of extensions on my ratchet (won’t fit an impact in that tiny space), then had to wedge the turbo manifold heatshield out of the way, and use a breaker bar to provide leverage on the extension for turning the ratchet. Pro tip - the last catalyst flange hole is slotted, so you only have to loosen the bolt enough to free the catalyst flange. I forced the insulating pad from the firewall heat shield back in place at the end but it was a poor fit.
After removing the plate between the engine and ecm, how does one remove the cloth partition? I assume you get to the bottom DP bolt near the engine from above with extensions and swivel?
My car did not have the cloth heatshield installed for some whatever reason. However I believe it runs down pretty far deep and has plastic 10mm clips. Yes I removed that bolt with a 10mm socket on a swivel socket & 3 inch extension. Kind of a PITA! Rest of them with a 10mm wrench.
What alternator did you use? I have now gone through 4 alternators and none of them are pushing the 14.4 volts you were reading. The first two were NAPA and now I’m on my second Oreily’s. Also my mechanic only charged me for 1.4 hours but Volvo says it’s a 5 hour job. Why the huge difference in labor?
The alternator I used was a used OEM 180 amp unit from a wreck yard. I used car-part.com to find it. The website just searches junkyards in your area. OEM Volvo alternators are made by Bosch. There are two options different options for alternators, a 150 amp unit, and a 180 amp unit. If the 150 amp unit is used in place of an 180 amp, it might explain why the alternator is failing prematurely, so just double check what part was installed in your vehicle. Have you or your mechanic double check your battery as well. Double check that the bolt is tight at 4:13. There is documentation that this bolt will back out and results in the alternator not spinning. Retighten with thread locker. Unfortunately I don't have a good answer on the difference of labor. It certainly doesn't take 5 hours to remove & replace the alternator. Your mechanic's labor of 1.4 hours sounds a lot more reasonable.
@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts I did put in a 180 amp this time from Oreily's, but still seems to be under 14 volts, it actually bounces around from low 13's to 14.1-4. The battery is brand new and is a AGM Everstart Platinum battery. Is it possible the ECM is not communicating correctly with the voltage meter on the alternator? Do the Bosh/Volvo alternators communicated better to the ECM?
where is the relay
Unfortunately I do not have the truck anymore, but if I recall correctly the relay is located around underneath the steering column on my 1992 Montero. There should be a relay panel around there.
Quick Tip: protect the Crankshaft Speedsensor underneath the Oilfilter with a Rag or something, because i think i messed up mine last time with an oilspill...
This was super helpful but not for the cat replacement. I have to fix a cracked air inlet and replace the upstream O2 sensor, and your video gave me good views of those areas before I get into that work. Thanks! 👍
Glad this was useful for you!
Hi, I just replaced my Volvo’s with an Eastern Catalytic converter along with a new sensor m and I’m still getting a check engine light P0420. Is there something else that can be checked?
Double check for any exhaust leaks, as well as vacuum leaks. Did you replace both upstream & downstream sensors? There is a common vacuum leak for the PCV system you can check here. ruclips.net/video/V0RzfGd-2OE/видео.html
Thank you!
I'm glad you found this video helpful!
How do I disconnect the throttle body. Is it a pinch clamp?
The electrical connector on the throttle body is a pinch clamp. If they're stuck, you can try to push the connector the opposite way from removing to free up any debris to remove the connector. Another way is to physically lift up the locking tab with a screwdriver while pulling down on the connector, which is what I did. The rubber pipe going to the throttle body is a worm gear clamp, which can be loosened with a 7mm socket/wrench. Twisting the rubber pipe should break the seal off the throttle body and should allow you to pull it off easily. Hope this helps!
@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts Sir, I can't begin to express my appreciation. I was able to remove the alternator. I could spin the pulley, but when I stopped it, the does not freewheel. Is this a sign of a defect?
@@Smokeycam1 It does sound like the alternator pulley is defective. When the decoupler pulley is stopped the alternator should be able to freewheel to compensate for change of engine RPMs.
When you clean the mating surface of the manifold, do you use soap or a solvent?
Also, do you ever re-use the silicone ring gaskets?
Well done. I’m sending mine over next
Thanks! I really appreciate it!
Do you have the specs for the 4 bolts and the 7 bolts?
I do not have the torque specs for the alternator. I don't think its very high though, they just need to hold the alternator on. Sorry! I only could find the 7 bolts for the intake manifold. Which is 12.5 ft lbs. I would tighten them from the middle out.
Hey mate my car is hard to start in the cold intake any idea
What was the source for replacement part? Found one on Rockauto that looks like the one you had.
Yes it’s the AP eastern unit off Rockauto.
Excelente tutorial ,me digas uma coisa se desligar o polo negativo nao desprograma a central e o carro nao liga mais
Olá, não falo português. Usei o google tradutor para escrever isso. Não, você não precisa reprogramar nada depois de desconectar o terminal negativo da bateria. Desculpe por responder tarde
Hi, I want to say something about your video, Can i?
You can!
@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts I saw your video. And I think you deserve more views. If you SEO your videos properly then RUclips will automatically reach your videos to more people. Your video's SEO score is only 0 out of 100. Which is too low, and therefore your video doesn't get enough views that you deserve. If you want, I can explain it in more detail, do you want to know?
This may be a niche thing but I've looked all over for someone actually doing the job. Thank you for the video it's so helpful🎉
Thanks! I'm glad this you found this video helpful!
@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts Hi, I am your new subcriber.
Thanks for this video! It has been very helpful! I'm done with the removal of the old cat and almost finished with the reinstall. I did have to remove and move the front of the driveshaft to get it out. I may not have HAD to move it, but it made it much easier. My biggest PITA was the stupid bolt in the corner where the downpipes connects to the turbo! It took me forever! Oh, and also all the heat shields! How any do you need?! Lastly, I wasn't 100% sure the cat was bad when I started, but I was pretty sure. When I got the old one out, it sounded like a maraca! Good thing I changed it! Should be able to finish up the install tomorrow. We just got this car and I haven't driven it with a functioning turbo, so it should go much better than it did! Thanks again!
I'm glad this video has been helpful to you! Yeah, the bolts that hold the downpipe to the turbo is annoying.. it doesn't help when you're laying on your engine! As for the heatshield, I wasn't able to reuse the OEM heatshields on my aftermarket downpipe as it didn't have any way to mount it. The aftermarket one that I got did have some heatshields tacked onto it, however they weren't as thick as the OEM one. I did not feel any noticeable difference in heat inside the cabin. Since there is a lot of heatshield material on the car's body, I would say just retain as much OEM heatshield as possible. If it's too much of a hassle, skip it. It sure sounds like the catalytic converter you pulled out was bad, sounds like a lot of the material is starting to fall apart due to it plugging and eventually melting! The new catalytic converter will definitely help the turbo function. It was a pretty big difference when I replaced mine! Hopefully the replacement goes smoothly!
"PromoSM"
Did you make a video of going back together?
I'm afraid not. Sorry!
Please keep up the good work! I love your disassemble and replacement videos. It’s far easier than reading manuals.
Thanks! I really appreciate it! I'll try to record more things I run into.
This is going to be a huge help for me. Thank you for posting!
I'm really glad this video was helpful! Hopefully your replacement goes smoothly!
I have to replace the large cat-back gasket (six bolts). Mine look rotted away. Exhaust itself is fine. Can i just use new bolts? Or are the originals pressed into the cat pipe?
The original exhaust has studs pressed into the cat pipe. They're just like wheel studs pressed into the hub. I would imagine that you can hammer them out and replace them with new bolts & nuts. If the studs survive and don't snap while removing, you could try running a die to clean up threads and put new nuts on them. Up to you though. When I did do my catalytic converter replacement, I received new nuts & bolts and had no issues installing them, and the gasket sealed up good.
@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts THANK YOU SO MUCH! This is exactly what i was wondering... Really appreciate the response (need to replace a blown gasket and the studs are there but not sure if i can reuse the existing threads or need to plan to replace the studs with bolts. Thanks!! 😃
After replacing my downstream 02 sensor, trying Cataclean, and also trying the Scotty Kilmer approach of using a gallon of lacquer thinner, I am throwing in the towel and will replace my cat. A Volvo cat would cost me a small fortune to have installed and just doesn't seem worth it. I just ordered a new assembly from IPD (139383), so I'm crossing my fingers. I'll replace the upstream 02 sensor while I'm at it. I'd like to replace my turbo [I'm pretty sure it has failed since I lost a lot of my pick-up-and-go (my 0-60 is over 10 seconds now)], but I don't have the money to do it right now, and the car still drives fine otherwise. I'm debating on doing this job because it's freezing outside and I don't have a lift. I can barely fit under my 2011 S60 when it's on jack stands. This video is super helpful in giving me an idea what I might be getting into, but I'm wondering if it would be worth paying a shop $500-$700 to do the labor.
The catalytic converter that was on the car didn't allow the turbo to spool up due to being plugged & creating a restriction. I think my acceleration before replacing was about the same time as yours. When I replaced it, the turbo spooled a lot quicker and pulled harder. A new cat should allow the exhaust system to 'flow' better. When you're replacing the cat, you can check the turbo for any play. The turbo impeller shouldn't move in and out of the compressor housing. Some side to side is okay. Yeah, removing this catalytic converter is definitely involved, and it doesn't help that it's cold now. I had to climb up and lay across the engine bay to access the bolts on the back of it. If you have a topside creeper, it would make it easier. To me, the biggest PITA was removing the prop shaft/driveshaft. However, I was told by another commenter that the Bevel gear & driveshaft doesn't have to be removed, and the exhaust could be twisted out. It took a weekend to remove & install. I did do this job on jack stands, but your car is a S60, which is lower than an XC60 of course.
@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts those are great tips, thanks! Did you find it hard to remove the rusty hardware? I assume some penetrating oil is in order. Side note: my ignition coil blew up (literally) a couple months ago on my 4th cylinder. Ever since then, my car has not had the power it used to. I replaced all the coils and plugs, then the P0420 came along not long after. My buddy pointed out a few years back that my tail pipes are pretty sooty. With that in mind, lately I've been wondering if my air/fuel mixture has been off, and sending more junk into the cat than what is typical. I'll check the air filter again while I'm at.
It wasn't too difficult, the hardware that was rusty was the 6 nuts on the exhaust, none of them snapped and the hardware was reusable, but it certainly didn't come out smoothly. Those are the bolts that definitely need penetrating oil. Also, a lot of the bolts on the Volvo are aluminum. I do feel like an impact wrench does help with removing bolts that are seized in there. Removing them by hand could snap them, however I did not run into any issues with bolts snapping. The ignition coil failure would've caused excess fuel to go into the catalytic converter, damaging it by melting. As mentioned before it would cause a restriction for the exhaust, and therefore the turbo. I would recheck all the grounds for ignition coils as there's a bunch of them, and could cause a hard misfire or bad spark. Did you put ant seize on the spark plugs by any chance? It's not recommended as it could interfere with the ground from the plug to the head. Check your air filter and see if there's any obvious vacuum leaks for the intake, unmetered air would throw off your air fuel ratios. You can also try cleaning the MAF while you're there. Pinhole leaks would have to be found with a smoke machine, or spraying brake cleaner to see if the RPMs fluctuate.
@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts I did not use anti-seize on the plugs. I ordered a new cat from IPD, but before I go any further, I'm going to try some things someone else suggested I do, which is to try a smoke test through my vacuum line, and then check vacuum readings...and then go from there with maybe some other options. Regarding the cat from IPD, I'm wondering what to make of it since I see in your video some heat shields that I may or may not be able to reattach after the swap. The new cat assembly does not have any shields, and the cat itself is a little further down than the original cat (maybe a shield isn't needed because of this?).
What were the symptoms of the failing catalytic converter? Were you getting a check engine light with an emissions related code or you had a loud rattle during acceleration from low rpm when the engine was warm?
My Volvo had a CEL for P0420 Catalyst low efficiency bank 1. Car ran fine, (albeit I did replace the engine). I did not have a loud rattle during acceleration while the engine was warm. If it is rattling, I would point it more towards a loose heatshield, but it is very possible for the catalytic converter to start falling apart. If the cat has fallen apart, you can smack the exhaust to see if there's anything rattling in there. The catalytic converter that I removed was clogged, it had 198k miles. You could try running a cleaner through it to see if that will help. I thought the car performed fine, but after replacing the catalytic converter, the car's increased performance as noticeable. Turbo spooled faster and pulled harder. There are a couple things you could try doing before replacing the catalytic converter. - Replacing the oil trap / PCV diaphragm. Common problem on this engine. The rubber diaphragm tends to tear causing oil consumption via intake. Easy way to test this is pull the dipstick or oil cap to see if there's any excessive vacuum. I've replaced just the PCV diaphragm with success. Here's a good video. ruclips.net/video/V0RzfGd-2OE/видео.html - Replace spark plugs and air filter. - A basic test for the cat is to measure the temperature of the inlet & outlet of the catalytic converter with an IR thermometer. The outlet should be hotter than the inlet. Would be kind of cumbersome though. -If you have a capable scan tool, you can see the voltage out of the downstream O2. If the cat is working the voltage should not fluctuate. The cleaner the engine runs there's less things for the catalytic converter to 'filter' out. Hopefully something here helps you out. Thanks for commenting!
I got a P0420 code a few months back. Aside from my turbo not functioning well, if at all, my car runs OK. I ordered a new cat today and should have it in a week. I'm not sure if I'll install it myself or have a shop do it. If I had a lift, I would be all in.
@@SuperJ213 I'm also suspecting turbo issues. I have this load rattle once the engine is warm and I accelerate from low RPM while the transmission is still in a higher gear. If I step on it it will rev up and the noise almost goes away. ruclips.net/video/fZNdA_TVzRU/видео.htmlsi=9SsRo9BQ_VGHiTp_
@@PossiblyUsefulAutomobile-mf3ts Thanks for the detailed response. The PCV diaphragm has been replaced already. I have recorded the noise in a way that the microphone was mounted inside the engine bay close to the exhaust manifold/turbo: ruclips.net/video/Vh936Ge8rtY/видео.html
It's possible that the rattle is coming from the turbo wastegate. There are two nuts that hold the wastegate closed. One could've possibly backed out causing the wastegate to rattle around. When you're in there make sure all the boost controller lines are in good shape. Not really sure why it would only do it when warm though.
Doing this one handed while filming is pretty amazing.
Also at 3:40 I advise everyone to be careful. I was pulling on that rubber hose to get it off and the nipple that it is attached to snapped. That was the only problem I encountered with this install. Have to either JB weld it or buy a whole new pipe.
Thanks for the video! I just removed the downpipe from my 2015.5 T6 Polestar this weekend with the help of this video. I did not have to touch the driveshaft or the bevel gear. I was able to twist the neck of the pipe sideways and slide it out.
Great to hear that it helped! Good to know that the driveshaft doesn’t have to removed in order for the exhaust to come out, will save a good bit of time.
How did you remove the lower stud near the engine between DP and turbo?
$800 is definitely cheap. I was told by my Volvo dealership that it's a $4,000 job definitely better to get a new car in my opinion on that
Looks like a 800 job
Nope, in the middle of it right now, this is not fun at all!