It really depends on the gym. Starting on V4 sounds super good because it takes most people about 2-3 years to climb V4s. In my local gym I project V5s, but in one much bigger gym in a bigger city I project V10s. Looking at the footage all V4s you show look more like V2s to me. So I'd say your gym is very soft. Either way good job and keep climbing!
Yeah, you're right!. People should just keep at it and be happy with any progress they make and shouldn't really too much about grades due to the lack of consistency. This is definitely a very soft gym - those V7 and V8 would be V4 in mine. And then you have Japan - like watch the last video of Magnus Midtbo and Emil Abrahamsson in Japan and how they struggle and can't flash a V6 even though they both have climbed established V15s
My issue with videos that talk about grading progression is that they primarily showcase commercial gym climbs which tend to either set soft and/or inconsistent. You can't really take these "progressions" at face value unless you use board benchmarks or outdoor boulders all the way through as those have a greater consensus.
Honestly I haven't really thought of it that way I appreciate the comment. I haven't done any outdoor bouldering so I will get into that this spring and definitely make a video about how it translates to my local gym, as well as hitting some moon board benchmarks.
Started the same time as you but only climbed once a week for first 4 months and since twice a week. Injuries started creeping in so lost time in between. I’m at V5, soft V6 and starting to plateau. Wish I had more time to put in but work and life is getting in the way :)
Thanks for the comment! That is honestly solid progression with a busy schedule and not being able to hit the gym all the time, good luck with the plateau it will pass!
I feel like one of the big things for me, and one of the main reasons I'll never genuinely go past v7-- Once you start getting to grades higher than v7, your risk of falling in a bad position skyrockets, because--Like you said, you have to just Try harder. With that comes trusting your body in positions you don't naturally want to be in. I love climbing, absolute favorite sport, i'm in there 3 times a week minimum. But I'm just not feeling hovering my chin over a mantle with my toes on quarter thick wedges, or jamming my ankle inbetween two holds with spotty hand placement, or even swinging on a super dynamic route at the highest part of a high wall. So i think 6-7 range is where I'll likely stay. I like the low risk factor. And I have nothing but respect for the people who go beyond it. I would argue, that you truly dedicate your life to the sport after that grade range.
Totally understandable that was well said. There is a lot of risk involved with higher grades, even when climbing indoors. I think its great that you still enjoy rock climbing so much without the need to continuously make grade improvements!
I would argue that you can still progress. If you use tools like the kilter board or the moon board, that'll help you tremendously! Your finger strength, core strength, technique, and tension will all improve dramatically just by board climbing, and those are low-risk tools. Also, the improvements you make with those will give you quite a bit more confidence to climb higher grades on the wall.
been climbing just over 6 months now 2 times a week and im climbing v6 + i find just trying really hard stuff and practicing hard moves on hard climbs has really helped me progress in my climbing alot will be my second time top roping tomorrow and im going to try get a 7a that i got close on my first visit
Love the video quality! Im thinkin about documenting my progress of my first year climbin. Maybe on this channel maybe on another. In 6 days Ill hit that year mark (the 27th), we'll see how it goes!
Super solid man I have mad respect for you hitting 12d on rope outside that's insane. I have done maybe 25 sessions of sport indoor/outdoor combined and can only get mid 11s outside at this point.
I’m a year and a half in, and got most v6s and a few v7s I think, but no v8s yet. My gym does grading ranges though instead of exact grades, so it’s hard to know for sure.
@@zackpalmerclimbing Yeah I think there’s pros and cons to it. It would be nice to know my exact grade sometimes though. Also how do you manage to climb so much each week without overtraining? I do 3-4 hour sessions and often need multiple days to recover my tendons and muscles, so normally only can go twice per week.
That's a good question. In my personal experience it has been way more effective for me to do sessions that are at most 2 hours of max effort, because at that point I don't have the strength to give solid attempts on projects anyways. When it comes to overtraining the most important thing for me has been my warm ups and cool downs. Hang boarding, stretching, and doing plenty of warm up climbs before my sessions has allowed me to go almost injury free within the last year, while also climbing almost every day. At this point the only thing that keeps me out of the gym every day is letting my skin get a break haha.
Hello sir , good video ! I am begginer (2 months at the end of the month ) i'm begin to v1 to enter to v3 last week ( around 6A ) . I have a question at the hangboard it's so difficult to grap under 30mm for me , what is your progression at hangdboard ?
That's a good question! First of all that's great progression it seems like you're improving really fast. With my personal experience on the hang board I didn't really start working on it until I was able to climb V5, although there are a lot of modifications you can do to make it easier to get started without injuring yourself. What I would recommend is to keep working on the 30mm but also integrate some smaller edges without taking your feet all the way off the ground. Basically just lower yourself to where your arms are extended but your full body weight isn't on your fingers. Hope that helps!
Nice video. I'm far from this level so it's just an guess, but couldn't a better footwork and lower body tension contribute to achieving that next grade? On that pink v8, it looks like your footwork isn't that precise and legs are shaking a lot.
"V4 in the first day of climbing" and proceeds to show a yellow "V4" that is three times easier than V0 outdoors Dude, stop talking about grades when you're only climbing in gym, especially in US
youtube has to stop recommending me these videos man. I ignore them and THEy DONT LEAVE MY FEED. I think its good to have a personal journal or smth to write your thoughts, but I really disagree with the mindset that gyms in the US create. Everyeone is so obsessed with climbing Vx (SOFTTT) in the least amount of time, but climbing is a long game. Most peoople who "climb V8+" in a year (outside) only climb one style and limit their progress in the long term. Realistically, no one cares weather you climb V12 in 2 years or 5/10 years. I think the issue is more cultural though, Climbing is a sport which isn't competitive (outdoors) so we HAVE to make it some type of race. This encourages gyms to set extremely softly to appease people who want to progress quickly. Genuinely makes hanging around new climbers unbearable because they appreciate the numbers more than the rock.
It really depends on the gym. Starting on V4 sounds super good because it takes most people about 2-3 years to climb V4s. In my local gym I project V5s, but in one much bigger gym in a bigger city I project V10s. Looking at the footage all V4s you show look more like V2s to me. So I'd say your gym is very soft. Either way good job and keep climbing!
Thanks for the comment!
Yeah, you're right!. People should just keep at it and be happy with any progress they make and shouldn't really too much about grades due to the lack of consistency. This is definitely a very soft gym - those V7 and V8 would be V4 in mine. And then you have Japan - like watch the last video of Magnus Midtbo and Emil Abrahamsson in Japan and how they struggle and can't flash a V6 even though they both have climbed established V15s
Come to Europe to see real V8@@zackpalmerclimbing
That’s great progression. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks Jenna!
My issue with videos that talk about grading progression is that they primarily showcase commercial gym climbs which tend to either set soft and/or inconsistent. You can't really take these "progressions" at face value unless you use board benchmarks or outdoor boulders all the way through as those have a greater consensus.
Honestly I haven't really thought of it that way I appreciate the comment. I haven't done any outdoor bouldering so I will get into that this spring and definitely make a video about how it translates to my local gym, as well as hitting some moon board benchmarks.
Hugely underrated channel and video! Good job, gave me some useful tips fs 👍👍
That means so much thank you!
Good vid, just subscribed!
Thanks! I appreciate the sub!
Started the same time as you but only climbed once a week for first 4 months and since twice a week. Injuries started creeping in so lost time in between. I’m at V5, soft V6 and starting to plateau. Wish I had more time to put in but work and life is getting in the way :)
Thanks for the comment! That is honestly solid progression with a busy schedule and not being able to hit the gym all the time, good luck with the plateau it will pass!
Same, I keep getting small injuries whenever I try to make it twice a week lol
Dude, you're at momentum? That's sick, I'm in Provo and usually hit the quarry. Loved the video, man!
Hell ya dude thanks for the comment! I still go to the quarry once a week or so to hit the new sets it's a solid gym.
Been climbing about a month and sent a couple v6s but feel most comfortable on v3 actually at the same gym too 😂 amazing vid!
Sick progress! Some of the v6's at momentum are quite hard haha. Thanks for the comment!
I feel like one of the big things for me, and one of the main reasons I'll never genuinely go past v7--
Once you start getting to grades higher than v7, your risk of falling in a bad position skyrockets, because--Like you said, you have to just Try harder. With that comes trusting your body in positions you don't naturally want to be in.
I love climbing, absolute favorite sport, i'm in there 3 times a week minimum. But I'm just not feeling hovering my chin over a mantle with my toes on quarter thick wedges, or jamming my ankle inbetween two holds with spotty hand placement, or even swinging on a super dynamic route at the highest part of a high wall.
So i think 6-7 range is where I'll likely stay. I like the low risk factor. And I have nothing but respect for the people who go beyond it. I would argue, that you truly dedicate your life to the sport after that grade range.
Totally understandable that was well said. There is a lot of risk involved with higher grades, even when climbing indoors. I think its great that you still enjoy rock climbing so much without the need to continuously make grade improvements!
Way to know your limits. That's awesome.
There are plenty of hard low ball / roof problems out there rated all the way up to like V16, so you can definitely keep pushing your own limits!
I would argue that you can still progress. If you use tools like the kilter board or the moon board, that'll help you tremendously! Your finger strength, core strength, technique, and tension will all improve dramatically just by board climbing, and those are low-risk tools. Also, the improvements you make with those will give you quite a bit more confidence to climb higher grades on the wall.
I agree the boards are an underrated tool
been climbing just over 6 months now 2 times a week and im climbing v6 + i find just trying really hard stuff and practicing hard moves on hard climbs has really helped me progress in my climbing alot will be my second time top roping tomorrow and im going to try get a 7a that i got close on my first visit
Hell ya dude solid progress
@zackpalmerclimbing thanks man you too BTW
Great video dude!
Thank you!
Love the video quality! Im thinkin about documenting my progress of my first year climbin. Maybe on this channel maybe on another. In 6 days Ill hit that year mark (the 27th), we'll see how it goes!
Hell ya I think it is worthwhile to document for sure! I'll give you a follow just in case you end up posting it 👍
@@zackpalmerclimbing thanks holmes!
Sick! I have been climbing since mid October and have gotten a couple V7s, and more v6s on gym wall and kilter board. Hoping to get a v8 soon!
Huge progress dude lets go!
Just subscribed! Keep up your great work
Thank you, I appreciate the sub!
Cool video and tips
Thanks!
Must say, this is a very high quality video considering your sub count. I was expecting something like 50 to 100k
Thank you so much this really means a lot! We will get there some day 🙏
2 Year - 20 hours x Week + WE outside climbing rope and bouldering -- around V8 boulder and 5.12D/13-a rope
Super solid man I have mad respect for you hitting 12d on rope outside that's insane. I have done maybe 25 sessions of sport indoor/outdoor combined and can only get mid 11s outside at this point.
I’m a year and a half in, and got most v6s and a few v7s I think, but no v8s yet. My gym does grading ranges though instead of exact grades, so it’s hard to know for sure.
Solid progress fs, its interesting to me that some gyms do that but at the same time I think it encourages people to try hard boulders which is great.
@@zackpalmerclimbing Yeah I think there’s pros and cons to it. It would be nice to know my exact grade sometimes though.
Also how do you manage to climb so much each week without overtraining? I do 3-4 hour sessions and often need multiple days to recover my tendons and muscles, so normally only can go twice per week.
@herbertmoon216 That's a good question. I'm curious about that too.
That's a good question. In my personal experience it has been way more effective for me to do sessions that are at most 2 hours of max effort, because at that point I don't have the strength to give solid attempts on projects anyways. When it comes to overtraining the most important thing for me has been my warm ups and cool downs. Hang boarding, stretching, and doing plenty of warm up climbs before my sessions has allowed me to go almost injury free within the last year, while also climbing almost every day. At this point the only thing that keeps me out of the gym every day is letting my skin get a break haha.
v4 the first day you walked into a climbing gym? either that gym has super soft climbs...or you are a climbing prodigy
Most definitely some soft climbs, but I also had a little bit of experience climbing at like 8 y/o so I wasn't going in completely blind
Grading does really differ. Honestly, the climbs you showed don't look like the grade they have.
Very true, and yes momentum is definitely soft by at least a grade from V0-7
“Mere mortal”
Exactly
That's definitely me.
Preach
Good vid
Thank you!
Hello sir , good video !
I am begginer (2 months at the end of the month ) i'm begin to v1 to enter to v3 last week ( around 6A ) .
I have a question at the hangboard it's so difficult to grap under 30mm for me , what is your progression at hangdboard ?
That's a good question! First of all that's great progression it seems like you're improving really fast. With my personal experience on the hang board I didn't really start working on it until I was able to climb V5, although there are a lot of modifications you can do to make it easier to get started without injuring yourself. What I would recommend is to keep working on the 30mm but also integrate some smaller edges without taking your feet all the way off the ground. Basically just lower yourself to where your arms are extended but your full body weight isn't on your fingers. Hope that helps!
@@zackpalmerclimbing ok thank you bro for the recommandations
Also 8:32 , isnt anything below 40 degrees is considered slab tho?
I'm confused as to what you mean cause a flat wall is considered to be 0 degrees I believe
@@zackpalmerclimbing oh I just heard a climber say that but prob u right not him
idk about 2 years but in 3 i sent my first (indoor) v10 😊
Nice video. I'm far from this level so it's just an guess, but couldn't a better footwork and lower body tension contribute to achieving that next grade? On that pink v8, it looks like your footwork isn't that precise and legs are shaking a lot.
Thanks! You are correct I definitely need to improve on those things, I tend to get a bit sloppy projecting hard climbs
that yellow v4 looks pretty soft like a V2 no offense
What Grade Can You Achieve With 2 Years of Climbing?
hopefully v9 if i push 💪
"My doors open..." 😂
Roommates always ruining my videos..
I think v9-10 in 2 years is very doable for a genetically gifted individual.
I would agree hopefully my genetics/training can keep up 🙏
"V4 in the first day of climbing" and proceeds to show a yellow "V4" that is three times easier than V0 outdoors
Dude, stop talking about grades when you're only climbing in gym, especially in US
Thanks for sharing your opinion! I do quite a bit of climbing outside and have sent a couple 6's but the gym I go to definitely has some soft grades!
youtube has to stop recommending me these videos man. I ignore them and THEy DONT LEAVE MY FEED. I think its good to have a personal journal or smth to write your thoughts, but I really disagree with the mindset that gyms in the US create.
Everyeone is so obsessed with climbing Vx (SOFTTT) in the least amount of time, but climbing is a long game. Most peoople who "climb V8+" in a year (outside) only climb one style and limit their progress in the long term. Realistically, no one cares weather you climb V12 in 2 years or 5/10 years.
I think the issue is more cultural though, Climbing is a sport which isn't competitive (outdoors) so we HAVE to make it some type of race. This encourages gyms to set extremely softly to appease people who want to progress quickly. Genuinely makes hanging around new climbers unbearable because they appreciate the numbers more than the rock.
Thanks for your opinion!
@@zackpalmerclimbing sorry bro I was in a hating mood last night. Keep on climbing!
@@nm-ue9oi All good dude I totally get your point of view with the original comment. And thanks same to you!
I got V9 before first year is that good? 😹😹
Dude you're insane what was your training like??
@@zackpalmerclimbing I don't train, I just climb and board climb alot 👍
Hell ya keep it up I love to hear it
@@zackpalmerclimbing hope you send ur project bro good luck man
Thank you I believe!
Congrats but I feel like you need to focus more on your foot work, even at v4, your footwork is not up to the mark that will help you for v5+
V8
Hoping to hit V9 by the end of this year which will be a total of 2 years!
@@zackpalmerclimbing i wish u power! But dont forget to upgrade your weakness and Basic power