How to joint square edged kitchen worktops
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- Опубликовано: 14 май 2019
- Hockey stick joint with router jig, or simple but joint? Remove edging tape with railsaw, router, or chisel? Lots of possible approaches but here’s what worked for me.
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Amazing method. Just used this.on a SE B&Q worktop and it is flawless. Thank.you
This is amazing. I have been scared to do the masons mitre myself, but this way seems so much easier
Doing a Wren kitchen next week with this post formed edge worktop! Won’t be doing masons mitre this time! Thanks for making this video! 👍🏼
God bless I wouldn’t put them in my garage I won’t fit shit anymore try CROWN I’ve been fitting these for 35 years 👍🏻
Nice way of doing worktops👍
Tried this method the other day & it worked a treat. Cut through the edging at the required position with a sharp utility knife then the rest of the edging pulled off with a bit persuading. A bit fiddly to do but it did look neat when bolted & glued together, much prefer this butt joint look for square edge worktops. Great tip..thanks.
Am I glad I watched this before starting. Thankyou, thankyou, thankyou!
See the comments - some advise against it - but it worked ok!
Been using this technique for all my square edge worktop fits , looks cleaner than masons mitre which basically should only be used for post formed chamfered edge , but each to their own I suppose , another top vid keep em coming 👍
Very good way of doing that joint. Not something I’d thought about or done but will be using your method from now on. Standard router & jig joint was normally the way for me.
Keith Brigham as per other comments below, there are some good arguments for both methods!
I did this 3 years ago and was told it wasn't a proper joint. Lol. Thank you I feel justified now.
Its still not!!!
It's a poor excuse for a joint
Masons mitre and this butt joint are the same except for the short 45° part at beginning of Mason mitre but both butt up and get clamped with glue in between joint , round edge worktops I believe jig joint square edge butt joint , just me saying 👍
Been doing this for years
Thanks for that , just about to do this tomorrow but was a bit unsure 👍🏻
Hi Alistair, I fit a lot of kitchens and it's amazing how many customers, including so called builders that think you need to use a masons mitre to join all worktops. It's absolutely not necessary on square edged tops.
With pvc square edged worktops I use a similar method to yours but with less chisel work.
I score the edging with a square and knife as you did, then I use my 1/2 inch router with a top guided profile / flush cutter with my standard worktop jig to remove the edging stopping a mm or so short of my score line, obviously setting the jig in line with the glued edging. I then remove the last mm or so of edging with sharp chisel, a quick sand and it's good to receive the square cut male worktop.
Good channel btw 👍
JRS UK thanks for the comment and I can see how using the router would give a quicker result, especially when you need it set up for the joining bolt recesses anyway!
That’s the way I do it 👍
Spot on. Masons mitre is for rounded chipboard mostly.
SE laminate I use this method with a few tweaks.
SE solid tops I just butt join with biscuits and silicone for movement.
Thank you that was a great video👍👍👍👍👍
Ian Harrison it amazes me how popular this video has been!
Yep,been doing it like this on all my installs for the last couple of years,sometimes really low set heat gun and sharp marples chisel to work away tougher glued banding.
Exactly what I wanted to know, big thanks
Oh that’s good!
Good job
Certainly a well thought-out option. Thank you for sharing. I have a zenith awaiting installation but I'm gonna try one of those shallow scribe jigs.
I think had you put some more heat on that edging it would have pulled off cleanly negating the need for the chisel and sanding block. I just finished up my first countertop and did as you - square corner with butt joint and countertop connectors. It came together nice.
Hi Alistair. That is correct.
I’m not a carpenter but I feel clever as I did this with a friends 22mm square edge worktop the other day and then saw this video after haha
😄 truth is it was kind of the same for me, I just though ‘I wonder if this will work’, made a video about it, and now people think I know what I’m talking about 😁 (apart from the carpenters who disagree of course!)
I thought you was a carpenter with all those festool tools 😂
@@liamdarrington3310 well yes I am really but with very little traditional training and I rarely fit kitchens.
Last time i fitted these square edge wortops, i scored with a stanley knife first, then to get the waste edge piece off i used my router.
Clamped a straight edge on so my cutter would cut just the edgeband off, and then finished the last bit with a sharp chisel. It worked perfect, got a really clean tight joint.
Nice
Did you put a 45 degree cut on the plastic front edge or just straight ? As there is a slight round on it.
Did someone use dewalt cordless heat gut for that ? Would it do enough heat ?
Hi Alistair. Thanks for sharing this. Will try it next week on a kitchen I am fitting as a novice. I am just wondering if this could work for a gloss end panel I accidentally chopped 280mm off earlier today in my own home. Hehe. Wife is not happy! Thanks
Do you mean you are wondering whether you can put the 2 parts together again??
Nice! A better method would be to straight router cut that 1mm female off.. gives a neater engineered finish.
Or use KWJ750pro jig with the 3mm back set, creating a small margin masons mitre, as you would use on compact laminate.
Thanks
Set your router at 1.5mm in can’t get a cleaner cut than that , other end cut is with a fine blade on your plunge saw or router , job done !
Would it not been just as fast to use the router if you have it out for the bolt holes 🤔
Got a job coming up where they just want the worktops replacing but keep the existing tiles on in a U shape kitchen, although i normally mason mitre all my joints this will make the job much easier to slide the worktops in/out under the tile
I hope it works well to you!
A great video which I found very informative ,thankyou. Will defo try this out next month when I fit my first kitchen (own home ,not to worry 😂). Can I ask, once fitted and bolted,what seals the join on top? From water damage etc... Thanks for any assistance from anybody 👍
Hi! Ideally glue the joint, and pull it tight using worktop bolts and biscuits to align it, but at the top surface use a product by Unika called colorfill
@@Alastair_Freebird Thankyou so much for the reply. I will definitely look into that product you mentioned,thanks. Would you use the joining bolts for a thinner worktop,22mm for example?
@@A5Hdude Ideally you need something to pull them tight. I might use Lamello Clamex for that but now we are talking about a very expensive specialist tool. If it is a living room storage unit I may make the joins visible as a tidy v-joint and worry less about making them seamless or waterproof, in which case I wouldn't need hardware which pulls them so tight
Hi, do you remove the laminate edge from both pieces before joining them ?
Yes
I think that it's good practice to put something on top of the worktop when you are resting tools on it.
Fair comment I agree
Thanks for the video. I’m about to fit a worktop in my kitchen. Do you just cut the worktop that butts up to this join with a track saw or would that require a router to make the mating edge perfect?
with a decent sharp blade in the track saw, and a fresh zero clearance rubber strip, yes you should be ok with track saw. I would score the top surface with a shallow pass first
That’s great. What blade would you recommend for cutting the worktop?
Do you have to take the edging strip off? Iv done me cut and ready to glue though iv not took the edging off yet!
It's a better finish if you remove the edging rather than trapping it in.
More heat with the gun definately makes it easier to remove the edging
Newbie at this so apologies if my question seems a stupid... but I want to be sure.
You show how to prepare the edge on the video but I didn't see the edge of the othe worktop you are about to join-up to it.
I ask because the one I'm about to join has a factory edge.
Do I remove the factory edge from both worktops to be joined together?
I just need to be absolutely sure.
Hi sorry to keep you waiting so long - I would always trim the meeting edges to remove any edgeband
Just as quick to do a masons miter
stephen charles probably true. I think one of the other commenters mentioned an extra small mitre jig (or it might have been on the Facebook Festool fall group), anyway that seems like best option for speed and discrete appearance.
There’s a smaller angle marked on modern worktop jig that is for square edged tops 35/10 or 22/10
Holloway’s Carpentry noted, and that may be more efficient for repeat work.
I was told that because the standard mitre opens up 1mm on the square edge then tried it the way I was shown and I’ve had no issue sorry to sound like I’m top chippy far from it just a bit of knowledge shared to be fair it’s all up to what the customer wants
@@hollowayscarpentry In all honesty I'm no expert by any means, just a guy who happened to record a method he tried one time :-)
has Mike been promoted lol
Whats the point in all the work involved to mitre the joint the only reason you mitre counter tops is to match up the rounded profile on the front if its a perfect square edge their is no point what so ever to mitre it only to say its been textbook fitted
I think some people are arguing for that in the comments because it ensures the most perfect join and seal, even with the tiny roundover of the edgeband!
Just offset your jig 25mm off the pegs for a 5mm cut ! . 5 mins and your done ! 😂
🫡 makes sense!
RIP Marple
👍
Just thinking about doing my worktops. The idea of using a square profile work top hadn't occurred to me. I do lots of carpentry but don't want to get a worktop jig for one job.
Thanks for the heads up
04:20 How comes the chisel ain't sharp?
Yahatacooky because it gets dropped on the floor 😄
Lazy mite all day long .heat gun will effect the rest of edging
Is it not possible to joint without removing the edge strip?
It’s certainly possible but you’d see the line of the edging strip and it has a slight roundover on its edge which would leave a little crevice to catch dirt.
When i fitted my kitchen (first time) i was using square edge worktop and i bought the jig and router to do a hockey stick join.
I thought it was abit of a bodge otherwise lololol
If i did another one id use your method
Hi, after marking with the pencil, to cut what is the male end, did you router or plunge saw the end
I can’t remember, did I not show it in the video? Plunge saw would be ok with care and a sharp blade I think
why do you need to cut the edge off. Can you join with the edge
You could do but it would look less professional with the edgeband trapped in the join - there is a slight arris roundover to the edgeband so it would collect dirt.
Howdens told me there is no issue doing like you have done but they have had issues with tops blowing if the edge strip is left on with water ingress. Let’s face it you really don’t want water near laminate joints at the best of times. I use this method with every square edge laminate. Most tops seem to be square edge nowadays which certainly saves time.
Lucky the sheds use iron on edging , be another story if they used heavy duty contact adhesive .
Guessing the square edge worktops don't last so long
Was surprised how easy that came off
Looked like that chisel was about to dig in at one point. If you've got the jig, a router and a new worktop bit - why would you bugger about like this, just because wren thinks it's a good idea? Looks cr@p to me: amatuerish.
John Riggs yeah it’s funny, you never know what videos will take off on RUclips. I thought I’d have a go doing this method and decided to point a camera at it. Never did it this way before or since 😆. Still, for some reason the algorithm has given me sufficient ad revenue to cover what I should have charged for the job (did it for free) so it was worth sharing from my point of view at least, and some commenters seem to like the technique!
@@Alastair_Freebird well the fact that you've never done it since...
Best way to join square edge, some of the cheaper worktops chip when routing as they aren’t well made , so as a self employed worktop fitter it’s a lot less risky doing this
Detailed to start …. Then no info on cutting the clamp bolt slots underneath - shame as it was good on the whole ❤
Full info here: ruclips.net/video/rT8dN9ySg1Y/видео.html
This man shops at tool station
tobaccorich yes! don’t you?
Freebird Interiors Always Baby 🤪🤪🤪🤣🤣🤣
How the hell are you gonna connect up the waste with the 40mm outlet that high up in the back of the cabinet ?
patrick light I don’t know but they managed it somehow! They just asked me to fit the Worktops - neighbours, favour for a favour, I didn’t get any more involved than that
@@Alastair_Freebird Well that will for sure hold water, if they even got it to fit in the first place.!!
i know a few people who fit worktops this way , not great, a bit DIY really , the time it takes messing about with a heat gun ,peeling off the edging hoping for the best ,you might as well have just used your router and jig, done right first time
Yes you are probably right, it's funny really I just chose a method and made the video on a whim
@@Alastair_Freebird fairplay for the reply , i do like your videos , keep them coming , :)
PVC Edged tops are crap compared to post-formed. Just one long joint to fail. Softer finish too so the printed pattern will rub off in a high contact zone.
I think you’re right!
What?0