OMG 1:59 - That is EXACTLY how i ended up with the top of two of my fingers on my left hand missing. Absolutely mad that you show this in an instructional video.
It’s all about blade rotation. As long as you are cutting down into the material there will never be tear out. Try reverse scoring. . Set your blade to be about 2 to 3mm deep. Start saw on finishing end of board. Pull saw towards you. Now set blade to full depth and push away in normal manner. Voila.. splinter free cuts on both sides. Must cut against straight edge or use a fence in order to do this. Ad
That's the same principle behind the common trick of putting the blade on backwards to cut plastic laminate countertops (where blowout on the underside doesn't matter). Of course, in either scenario the cut will go a bit slower.
Scribing blade on panel saws spin anti clockwise scoring Boards same principle as you explain. Best methods to cut melamine for me is order is all pre cut and edged 😂
Not completely the case, a cordless saw did it when i cut down. Actually honestly i was thinking about that because when i use a corded saw i usualy do cut down into it, its all i ever have done really. But I never even seen this problem until i started using a cordless saw, which most of the time i don't cut down through it because the blade tends to be a bit smaller and slower at times. But i did do it a couple times and it did the same thing on Engineered wood, with a vynal top, which like i said i had never seen until i started using newer cordless saws.
Excellent video, so many others waffling on and then showing the finished result but not showing the cut being made. You did everything right in this, no bogus video cuts, no lies, just hard facts and hard evidence. Thanks mate, I owe you a beer.
I learned something very useful from this vid. And... no arguments in the comments... because it was executed very scientifically. GREAT VID thanks for taking the time!!!
I used the three cut method yesterday on a length of laminated kitchen worktop - wow, what a result! I used a 24 tooth blade and no masking tape and the result was a near pristine cut. One thing I learned - start your cut at the curved edge of the laminate, otherwise small bits of laminate might get pushed off rather than cut, spoiling your perfect finish.
Very informative. I cut melamine, any laminate and 1/4" plywood from the opposite side when using a circular saw. Table saws cut down into the wood, not up through it, just for this reason. You can get the same benefit by flipping your stock over when using a circular saw - - also apply all the tips in the video too
Running a scoring cut before the full depth is always best, I use 3mm mdf over some cuts. Blades are not just about teeth-count I have recently learned (after 40 years lol!). Study-up on blade Hook Angles, they make the world of difference when combined with the correct teeth numbers on the quality of the top cut's finish as the less angle "shaves more than cuts" as it passes through, and obviously have the depth of cut set to match the material thickness. Bosch have a range of blades with minimal and sometimes negative Hook angles which I've now swapped to.
I think the main thing is the CORRECT blade to use I always do this and didn’t have to put tape and it cuts just fine as long as I use the correct blade. Great video and NO background Loud Music either 👍👍👍
A little tip I got from an old timer who's spent a lifetime making high end furniture, to get perfect cuts while cutting on the finish-side, without the need to go get a 60 tooth blade: Use the method you showed with the fixed guide, but on the first pass you set the depth to 1.5-3 mm (1/16-1/8 inch) and you make the first cut in reverse. By cutting backwards, the teeth of the blade will strike down into the finish side of wood and won't blow out since its always supported, just like you see on the backside of all your shown cuts. Its important (both for result and safety) you only make this first shallow cut in reverve, and not the full depth, as the saw will be pushing back off the material rather than clamp it between the blade and the depth guide as it normally does during forward cutting, so make sure you keep a slight pressing down on the saw as you cut. After that, you finish like you also did, with a full cut through in the normal direction.
Sounds reasonable. Thumbs up! Let me translate it to Chinese for future Chinese audience. 这位鸭子叫同学分享了从老木匠那里学来的技巧：在正式切板子之前，用圆锯倒着切一条槽，倒着切的时候齿是压在板子上的，所以不会崩边。槽不要太深，1.5~3mm以内，太深电锯反弹力会很大，小心伤人。
Great content! I was just getting ready to head to Home Depot to pick up tape because I'm cutting a bunch of plywood today. You just saved me $4 plus gas for the round trip. THANKS!
THANK YOU! This is EXACTLY the video I needed today, because I will be cutting wide melamine shelves for my pantry. I will be using a circular saw with a NEW 60+ tooth blade. The 'multiple cuts' method is a winner, and I will be using some kind of edge guide. What complicates my install is that if course the side walls to the small pantry aren't exactly parallel, so each shelf must be custom-fit to size. I've got 1/16 to 3/8 differences front-to-rear on the shelf widths - 5 shelves.
I've found the best method is to use tape AND sacrificial wood (and whenever possible using the table saw). But yes, all other things being equal, a wood blade will always give you better results than the generic blade that mitre saws, table saws and circular saws are shipped with.. Keep up the good work. Greetings from London!
Nice demonstration, thanks. I have found that clamping a waste piece of the same material over the cut area by using screws rather than clamps on the waste side of the cut, I have cut worktops (counter tops for USA) and have never had a blowout. I believe the extra holding strength of the screws over clamps made the difference. Thank you once again.
I always used to initially cut a straight, superficial line on the board with a grinder (cutting disc mounted) to give a smooth cut on the top side before using the saw, but it's like surgery and takes a lot of time and focus. Having watched this, I can't believe I never thought of doing the surface cut with the circular saw instead. It is the same concept, just 10x quicker and you only need one tool to do it. Thanks Bill, I think I finally found that "one method that works". 👍
That is such a useful comparison between the methods. Have used tape in the past and never been happy with results. Multiple cuts from now on. Who knew?! Bill did:) Thanks.
Using the multi cut method provided great results even with 24 teeth. Great content, haven’t seen others doing this on a circular saw. Thanks for sharing!
I think I was born with a hockey stick and a circular saw in my hand in 1960, but you're never too old to learn new info. Great info, never tried or even thought of the multiple cut method. Looks like I am buying a 60 tooth blade as well, compared to my 40 tooth. Cheers from Canada.
When I use tape to trim wooden doors, I find the tape holds the fibers very well. But I wouldn’t expect to get a good result with melamine. Completely different materials. Maybe try these same tests with plywood..? Was very impressed with the multiple passes method. A bit more trouble to set up a guide, but great result even on melamine. Well worth it. Thanks.
I'd say the speed at which you cut is the most important factor. When I want a clean cut I just slow way down. If you slow down AND use a fine tooth blade you get a nice cut with little blowout, and any blowout you do have is very small. The multiple cut method demonstrates the effect of changing the angle at which the blade exits the material. The first cut has a nearly horizontal exit.
Used the multiple depth cut method a while ago while installing a slat wall because I saw it in a Scott Brown video and couldn’t believe it actually worked so well
as an extreme Novice when it comes to woodworking... i would not have thought the multi cut would have been any better since the rotation of the blade is still in the same direction pulling the material up.... now watching this and reading comments... it is actually cutting more parallel to the work piece which somehow helps prevent blow out..
A method I use for melamine is to score parallel lines the width of the circular saw blade with a craft knife over the top surface and edges. It's a bit time consuming, but I'm usually happy with the results. Next time I have a project, I'll have to try out your triple pass method. Thanks for the helpful video.
Haha, tough crowd as is often the case. Great video that shows what happens with a circular saw in various circumstances, it’s not a definitive work so any criticism is stupid mostly by people that don’t have any idea what they’re doing anyway. Sometimes you need both sides to be clean and there’s some useful tips by others in the comments too, good work mate 👍
Great video that I didn't think I needed until half-way through I realised how much I did! So if you want the perfect finish you just have to take more time cutting Melamine via the multiple pass method it looks like!
Hi mate. Just want to say I absolutely love your channel and really appreciate how much you help people. I live in Adelaide and are a gardener/ handyman. I have learnt so much from you. Thanks again
I think if you go slow and take your time, you experience a better finish. You also enjoy it more. I also found that using some form of protection on your wood helps. Practice makes perfect.
Hi Bill, heard an oldie about this subject.. 2 cuts with a good carpet knife using metal ruler and 3 mm apart, the old guy swore by it..Just on the top
This video was very handy, as I know that the chipping occurs, and in my case cutting laminate. I was surprised to see the results. My project involves trimming off an already set countertop, where a new oven would not fit and I have to trim off a quarter inch from either side. So the repeated, shallow cuts, would be a way to get the best finish possible. Your video provided valuable information and I think you for that. I rarely do these kinds of cuts with my everyday blade, so it’s time to buy a few, including the 60 tooth blade and apply tape as well to the method.
Thanks for this. I only have one board to cut and didn’t want to buy a new blade for this just that. Was hoping to see 24 teeth with tape and 3 pass method combined but I guess I’ll be running that test myself tomorrow
You don’t need to make to make three passes for the multiple cut. Just two is enough. And you should never cut 16mm sheet goods with your blade at full depth anyway. Having your blade only just cut thru the material makes the world of difference. Give that a go next time Bill 👍🏼
Usually I'll give it a 360 run at 3.14mm then backpass through the cut with a slight 0.5 degree spaced bevel arch. Afterwards I'll lay down some gold foil and rip through at 1500 RPM for the final pass, but only after giving the saw a full spray down with the air compressor and lubricant on all bearings.
Interesting. I just remodeled one of my bathrooms. I used MDF baseboard and trim molding. I cut it all with a 40 tooth Diablo on an 8 1/4" table saw. I had zero blowout. It cut to perfection. Guessing that maybe the diameter of the blade has something to do with it? I don't know. This video, however, convinced me to get rid of the stock DeWalt 24 tooth blade on my circular saw, though. I just never gave that any thought before but, honestly, how often am I ever ripping a 2X4 with the grain of it? Never, is the answer. So, now that you have made me think about that, I ordered a 60 tooth diablo to go on the circular. That just makes better sense. Thanks!
Your multi-cut is essentially mimicking the saws we use at the factory, although we do it all in one pass. We have a scoring blade running in the reverse direction of the main blade, both mounted on one saw bed. The cuts we get are extremely sharp (you can cut yourself), even 3 metre long cuts with 5 boards, held in place by a couple of pressure beams, cut all at once. The other thing that makes a huge difference is the blade itself. Is it sharp? In the factory, blades get changed a minimum of 3 times a day. More if chipping starts to occur.
I cut a lot of plywood and have the same problem with blowout. I think I have solved the problem with frog tape but, I purchased a steel roller about 3” wide made for flooring installers to flatten seams. By rolling the tape with this steel roller there is absolutely no blowout. The roller costs about $45 at a big box store.
I use a Makita plunge saw on a track . It has a scoring setting at 1mm , which leaves no blowout at all, and then I cut to full depth . The track also means no movement sideways in the cutting action of the blade, as opposed to a hand held circular saw .
try a side by side, i used to believe in tape but i find it pulls off what was chipping out anywas when you take it off. as he said, it's slightly better but not the result you want.
Upcoming DIY table desk sawing and later edge banding. Really needed to know this. Ordered a 60T to replace my 24T asap too. Now I can tackle this job with confidence. Awesome! Thanks for this information.
Nice tip. I will remember this one going forward. I sort of guessed that the more teeth, the finer the cut, which is pretty obvious, but that trick with the multiple cuts, nice one. Thanks for another great video Bill.
Another one to try is multiple cuts with the 60 tooth blade, but the first cut, pull the saw in reverse across the job. The material is essentially compressed into the board, and then ejected along the cut, meaning it isn't lifted. This might also work on the 24 tooth, but there's less tool control.
Probably the most efficient method. However make sure to just set a 2-3 mm max during the first cut in reverse direction to avoid kick back and use a guide to stay on the same cut. Then cut through as usual.
The best comparison I've seen about this topic, so far
Thanks
Scientific method is alive and well with you mate!! WELL DONE!
There are dozens of RUclips videos on cutting melamine. This one is by far the most informative, thank you taking the time for making it.
You’re welcome 👍
OMG
1:59 - That is EXACTLY how i ended up with the top of two of my fingers on my left hand missing.
Absolutely mad that you show this in an instructional video.
Damn, we know he's got clamps nearby. Why would you do that?
Tnx for the tip, good point
thanks for pointing ☝🏼 that out 😂
Did it kick out? 😮
Clearly he's a professional while your not. Frankly you should be the last person here to give any advice.
It’s all about blade rotation. As long as you are cutting down into the material there will never be tear out. Try reverse scoring. . Set your blade to be about 2 to 3mm deep. Start saw on finishing end of board. Pull saw towards you. Now set blade to full depth and push away in normal manner. Voila.. splinter free cuts on both sides. Must cut against straight edge or use a fence in order to do this.
Ad
That's the same principle behind the common trick of putting the blade on backwards to cut plastic laminate countertops (where blowout on the underside doesn't matter). Of course, in either scenario the cut will go a bit slower.
@@HisboiLRoi Never thought of doing that. Must try it sometime. Thanks.
For the tip.
@@ernestbubly9636 never thought about it because its fucken dangerous
Scribing blade on panel saws spin anti clockwise scoring Boards same principle as you explain. Best methods to cut melamine for me is order is all pre cut and edged 😂
Not completely the case, a cordless saw did it when i cut down. Actually honestly i was thinking about that because when i use a corded saw i usualy do cut down into it, its all i ever have done really. But I never even seen this problem until i started using a cordless saw, which most of the time i don't cut down through it because the blade tends to be a bit smaller and slower at times. But i did do it a couple times and it did the same thing on Engineered wood, with a vynal top, which like i said i had never seen until i started using newer cordless saws.
Excellent video, so many others waffling on and then showing the finished result but not showing the cut being made.
You did everything right in this, no bogus video cuts, no lies, just hard facts and hard evidence.
Thanks mate, I owe you a beer.
I learned something very useful from this vid. And... no arguments in the comments... because it was executed very scientifically. GREAT VID thanks for taking the time!!!
I used the three cut method yesterday on a length of laminated kitchen worktop - wow, what a result! I used a 24 tooth blade and no masking tape and the result was a near pristine cut. One thing I learned - start your cut at the curved edge of the laminate, otherwise small bits of laminate might get pushed off rather than cut, spoiling your perfect finish.
Wow , thats got to be ignorance at it's peak , turn the worktop upside down
Very informative. I cut melamine, any laminate and 1/4" plywood from the opposite side when using a circular saw. Table saws cut down into the wood, not up through it, just for this reason. You can get the same benefit by flipping your stock over when using a circular saw - - also apply all the tips in the video too
Don't they cut downward to pull down and push back on what you're cutting so they don't drag it toward the blade or try to lift it off the table.
Running a scoring cut before the full depth is always best, I use 3mm mdf over some cuts. Blades are not just about teeth-count I have recently learned (after 40 years lol!). Study-up on blade Hook Angles, they make the world of difference when combined with the correct teeth numbers on the quality of the top cut's finish as the less angle "shaves more than cuts" as it passes through, and obviously have the depth of cut set to match the material thickness. Bosch have a range of blades with minimal and sometimes negative Hook angles which I've now swapped to.
I think the main thing is the CORRECT blade to use
I always do this and didn’t have to put tape and it cuts just fine as long as I use the correct blade.
Great video and NO background Loud Music either 👍👍👍
A little tip I got from an old timer who's spent a lifetime making high end furniture, to get perfect cuts while cutting on the finish-side, without the need to go get a 60 tooth blade:
Use the method you showed with the fixed guide, but on the first pass you set the depth to 1.5-3 mm (1/16-1/8 inch) and you make the first cut in reverse. By cutting backwards, the teeth of the blade will strike down into the finish side of wood and won't blow out since its always supported, just like you see on the backside of all your shown cuts.
Its important (both for result and safety) you only make this first shallow cut in reverve, and not the full depth, as the saw will be pushing back off the material rather than clamp it between the blade and the depth guide as it normally does during forward cutting, so make sure you keep a slight pressing down on the saw as you cut.
After that, you finish like you also did, with a full cut through in the normal direction.
That's a great tip... In machining, that's a climb cut, and also smoother. With a really shallow cut as you describe, that should be ok in wood.
Sounds reasonable. Thumbs up!
Let me translate it to Chinese for future Chinese audience.
这位鸭子叫同学分享了从老木匠那里学来的技巧：在正式切板子之前，用圆锯倒着切一条槽，倒着切的时候齿是压在板子上的，所以不会崩边。槽不要太深，1.5~3mm以内，太深电锯反弹力会很大，小心伤人。
Wow thanks
Interesting idea, I'll have to try that
Makes sense. Thanks.
Great content! I was just getting ready to head to Home Depot to pick up tape because I'm cutting a bunch of plywood today. You just saved me $4 plus gas for the round trip. THANKS!
THANK YOU! This is EXACTLY the video I needed today, because I will be cutting wide melamine shelves for my pantry. I will be using a circular saw with a NEW 60+ tooth blade. The 'multiple cuts' method is a winner, and I will be using some kind of edge guide. What complicates my install is that if course the side walls to the small pantry aren't exactly parallel, so each shelf must be custom-fit to size. I've got 1/16 to 3/8 differences front-to-rear on the shelf widths - 5 shelves.
Logic, demonstration, undeniable results. Now that is how you make great content. You rock! 🔥👍
I've found the best method is to use tape AND sacrificial wood (and whenever possible using the table saw). But yes, all other things being equal, a wood blade will always give you better results than the generic blade that mitre saws, table saws and circular saws are shipped with..
Keep up the good work. Greetings from London!
SCIENCE. Diligent, thorough. Dude! Adding to the craft. THANK you.
This is how a video tutorial has to be presented.. super informative worth your effort.. thanks for the upload..
You’re welcome 👍
Nice demonstration, thanks. I have found that clamping a waste piece of the same material over the cut area by using screws rather than clamps on the waste side of the cut, I have cut worktops (counter tops for USA) and have never had a blowout. I believe the extra holding strength of the screws over clamps made the difference. Thank you once again.
I always used to initially cut a straight, superficial line on the board with a grinder (cutting disc mounted) to give a smooth cut on the top side before using the saw, but it's like surgery and takes a lot of time and focus. Having watched this, I can't believe I never thought of doing the surface cut with the circular saw instead. It is the same concept, just 10x quicker and you only need one tool to do it.
Thanks Bill, I think I finally found that "one method that works". 👍
Thank you so much. You spent a lot of time to demonstrate all the options. Very thorough and informative. Thank you again. 🙏
That is such a useful comparison between the methods. Have used tape in the past and never been happy with results. Multiple cuts from now on. Who knew?! Bill did:) Thanks.
Now we all know 👍👍👍
Moral of the story: Use the bottom of the stock for your finished side.
lol 🤣🤣
LOL spoken like a real and experienced carpenter.
Using the multi cut method provided great results even with 24 teeth. Great content, haven’t seen others doing this on a circular saw. Thanks for sharing!
I think I was born with a hockey stick and a circular saw in my hand in 1960, but you're never too old to learn new info. Great info, never tried or even thought of the multiple cut method. Looks like I am buying a 60 tooth blade as well, compared to my 40 tooth. Cheers from Canada.
👍👍👍
Great tips Bill - gives me as a weekend DIYer a lot of confidence
Winner winner chicken dinner, great video, thanks!!
Dude, u just saved me tons of money!!! thank you!
When I use tape to trim wooden doors, I find the tape holds the fibers very well. But I wouldn’t expect to get a good result with melamine. Completely different materials. Maybe try these same tests with plywood..?
Was very impressed with the multiple passes method. A bit more trouble to set up a guide, but great result even on melamine. Well worth it. Thanks.
I have been building stuff for 40 years. Learned a lot of good stuff. Thank you.
Can't tell ya how many times I've gotten rough cuts and had no idea why. This is great advice!
I learn a lot from your tips. Thank you!
You’re welcome 👍
I'd say the speed at which you cut is the most important factor. When I want a clean cut I just slow way down. If you slow down AND use a fine tooth blade you get a nice cut with little blowout, and any blowout you do have is very small.
The multiple cut method demonstrates the effect of changing the angle at which the blade exits the material. The first cut has a nearly horizontal exit.
I was wondering why the multiple cut method is so effective and this is it - thanks!
So how is multiple cut done. Dumb!
@@kaheka60 Was that a question?
I forgot to mention another very important factor, sharp blades.
Multi cut did the trick with spectacular results!!!! Thanks!!!!!!!
Thank you for increasing our knowledge with your informative video. Great work.
You’re very welcome 👍
Used the multiple depth cut method a while ago while installing a slat wall because I saw it in a Scott Brown video and couldn’t believe it actually worked so well
as an extreme Novice when it comes to woodworking... i would not have thought the multi cut would have been any better since the rotation of the blade is still in the same direction pulling the material up.... now watching this and reading comments... it is actually cutting more parallel to the work piece which somehow helps prevent blow out..
Just watch for no reason and Actually really enjoyed it. I might have missed my calling.
A method I use for melamine is to score parallel lines the width of the circular saw blade with a craft knife over the top surface and edges. It's a bit time consuming, but I'm usually happy with the results.
Next time I have a project, I'll have to try out your triple pass method. Thanks for the helpful video.
wtf
Here i show u a trick i teach my guys in germany, may bee it helps u
ruclips.net/video/y1-ssqG6hd0/видео.html
That works for me as well. Scoring the cut with a utility knife first
the best planning executed, best logic demonstrated, most believable result!
Worked great, cut the board easy as butter, thanks for the tips.
Worthwhile watching. I would have never thought of the methods nor guessed the results.
Glad you did so many tests - covered everything i had in mind to test myself. Saved me some time!
Haha, tough crowd as is often the case. Great video that shows what happens with a circular saw in various circumstances, it’s not a definitive work so any criticism is stupid mostly by people that don’t have any idea what they’re doing anyway.
Sometimes you need both sides to be clean and there’s some useful tips by others in the comments too, good work mate 👍
👍👍👍
Great video that I didn't think I needed until half-way through I realised how much I did! So if you want the perfect finish you just have to take more time cutting Melamine via the multiple pass method it looks like!
Best video ever!! I wish I would have watched your video earlier.
This is actually a useful tip. I haven't seen this anywhere else. Thanks.
Great video, straight to the point, accurate. Good job!
This is what I needed for cutting Ikea doors.. Thank you!!
Hi mate. Just want to say I absolutely love your channel and really appreciate how much you help people. I live in Adelaide and are a gardener/ handyman. I have learnt so much from you. Thanks again
You’re very welcome, I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos👍
I personally make a first cut backwards, like 2 or 3 mm depth, I think that's the most effective way to get a clean cut 🙂
This is just the advice I needed to cut my kitchen units to fit. Thanks for the advice
okay. This warranted a donation. Thanks for doing the work to figure out this frustrating puzzle.
I think if you go slow and take your time, you experience a better finish.
You also enjoy it more.
I also found that using some form of protection on your wood helps.
Practice makes perfect.
All the techniques in 1 video. Great content. Now just need to do the same thing with different types of wood (particle, laminate, plywood...)
Thanks for posting these vids Bill, you’re really helping me improve the quality of my work 👍
👍👍👍
@@billshowto hi bill please do diy ways to secure our house or low cost ways
Thank you for this informative lesson. This will really help me when I use my circular saw.
Thank you for providing exactly the comparison I was looking for!
Awesome video, straight to the point, clearly explained, results to prove it, thanks for making it, really helped me to get better results
Excellent instructional video. Clear, concise. Thank You!
👍
Hi Bill, heard an oldie about this subject.. 2 cuts with a good carpet knife using metal ruler and 3 mm apart, the old guy swore by it..Just on the top
This video was very handy, as I know that the chipping occurs, and in my case cutting laminate.
I was surprised to see the results.
My project involves trimming off an already set countertop, where a new oven would not fit and I have to trim off a quarter inch from either side.
So the repeated, shallow cuts, would be a way to get the best finish possible.
Your video provided valuable information and I think you for that.
I rarely do these kinds of cuts with my everyday blade, so it’s time to buy a few, including the 60 tooth blade and apply tape as well to the method.
He showed tape does not help , only multicuts with 60 tooth saw blade
What a great video Bill. Thank you Sir. The results were a shock. It goes to show, that slowly is the key.
No comments, just perfect cuts.
very methodical and informative. Thanks!
Thanx so much for your presentation. I will use what you taught to cut beadboard and I will cut with backside up to get best results on front side.
Mate, you are genius! Thank you!
You went to a lot of trouble for our benefit there, many thanks. 👍from the UK.
Great video 👏👏👏👏 informative, scientific and well tailored video 👍👍
You’re welcome 👍
Thank you for taking the time to do this video.
Some videos cover some of the bases....this one covered ALL of the bases. Best video I've ever seen on the subject. Can't thank you enough. cheers.
He's back! The Ozzy man snack is at it again 😉
Lol👍
@@billshowto love the wisdom Bill, keep them videos rolling 🖤
Thanks for this. I only have one board to cut and didn’t want to buy a new blade for this just that. Was hoping to see 24 teeth with tape and 3 pass method combined but I guess I’ll be running that test myself tomorrow
RLY nice test of different blades and cut techniques. 👍👍👍👍😘
This is a fantastic and extremely useful tip!!
You don’t need to make to make three passes for the multiple cut. Just two is enough. And you should never cut 16mm sheet goods with your blade at full depth anyway. Having your blade only just cut thru the material makes the world of difference. Give that a go next time Bill 👍🏼
I do first 2mm deep cut - backwards. You have to be more careful but it is 100% sure to have clean cut. 2nd run is full depth.
Usually I'll give it a 360 run at 3.14mm then backpass through the cut with a slight 0.5 degree spaced bevel arch. Afterwards I'll lay down some gold foil and rip through at 1500 RPM for the final pass, but only after giving the saw a full spray down with the air compressor and lubricant on all bearings.
@Chris Hayes 😂😂
@@chrishayes5755 thanks for this I followed your steps exactly and it came out perfect!
Also doing the cut a lil slower... but I think the fast cut was better for demonstrative purposes.
TY for the vid, I'm a first time watcher and I found it fascinating and informative, I won't forget this ever! 🙂
You’re welcome 👍
Interesting. I just remodeled one of my bathrooms. I used MDF baseboard and trim molding. I cut it all with a 40 tooth Diablo on an 8 1/4" table saw. I had zero blowout. It cut to perfection.
Guessing that maybe the diameter of the blade has something to do with it? I don't know.
This video, however, convinced me to get rid of the stock DeWalt 24 tooth blade on my circular saw, though. I just never gave that any thought before but, honestly, how often am I ever ripping a 2X4 with the grain of it? Never, is the answer.
So, now that you have made me think about that, I ordered a 60 tooth diablo to go on the circular. That just makes better sense.
Thanks!
Great presentation. Thank you for your time and effort to make this video and share it with us. Greetings from Croatia.
You’re very welcome 👍
Thanks - what a great find you are. I love the way you compared all of the methods - very scientific 👍👍
Your multi-cut is essentially mimicking the saws we use at the factory, although we do it all in one pass. We have a scoring blade running in the reverse direction of the main blade, both mounted on one saw bed. The cuts we get are extremely sharp (you can cut yourself), even 3 metre long cuts with 5 boards, held in place by a couple of pressure beams, cut all at once. The other thing that makes a huge difference is the blade itself. Is it sharp? In the factory, blades get changed a minimum of 3 times a day. More if chipping starts to occur.
Theres a reason why industrial panel saws have a built-in scoring blade... it works !! 😏
😎👍☘️🍺
I cut a lot of plywood and have the same problem with blowout. I think I have solved the problem with frog tape but, I purchased a steel roller about 3” wide made for flooring installers to flatten seams. By rolling the tape with this steel roller there is absolutely no blowout. The roller costs about $45 at a big box store.
Excellent video, Bill, and the most useful I've come across. Keep up the good work!
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Great video! That's very helpful. Thanks for sharing mate! :)
Thanks for the quick and simple video. Multiple cuts is the winner!
I use a Makita plunge saw on a track . It has a scoring setting at 1mm , which leaves no blowout at all, and then I cut to full depth . The track also means no movement sideways in the cutting action of the blade, as opposed to a hand held circular saw .
Thanks for the tests you've done. You may want to add the reverse blade method too. See what then results are and make a second episode of this video.
Awesome. Thank you....this is an excellent demo.
I have used the tape method for decades. I wrap multi layers and it works well.
try a side by side, i used to believe in tape but i find it pulls off what was chipping out anywas when you take it off. as he said, it's slightly better but not the result you want.
Upcoming DIY table desk sawing and later edge banding.
Really needed to know this. Ordered a 60T to replace my 24T asap too.
Now I can tackle this job with confidence.
Awesome! Thanks for this information.
Great methodical approach.
Nice tip. I will remember this one going forward. I sort of guessed that the more teeth, the finer the cut, which is pretty obvious, but that trick with the multiple cuts, nice one. Thanks for another great video Bill.
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Reverse the direction of travel, start away and pull saw back towards you when scoring top, the go forwards when cutting through to the underside
very good demonstration. thank you
Tried the multi cut technique and it worked out wonderfully! Thanks so much for this video!
Another one to try is multiple cuts with the 60 tooth blade, but the first cut, pull the saw in reverse across the job. The material is essentially compressed into the board, and then ejected along the cut, meaning it isn't lifted. This might also work on the 24 tooth, but there's less tool control.
Probably the most efficient method. However make sure to just set a 2-3 mm max during the first cut in reverse direction to avoid kick back and use a guide to stay on the same cut. Then cut through as usual.
Very thorough and very useful demonstration! 👍 Nice work.
Nice video mate. Confirms what I thought was the best method but saved the time testing.
Great video. Thanks so much for this awesome technique!