@@LTWCarpentry I watch most trades! My pegs are very tight like yours and they were supplied pegs with Howdens jig. I also pass router along back edge of jig and then use front edge as a finishing cut as there is 1mm of play in my jig and guide bush
I was taught to use the opposite edge of the guide slot to make the preliminary cuts and then a full depth pass against the side of the slot nearest the cut. That's why the slot is a couple of mm wider than the guide bush.
Yes I do this sometimes also, with these tutorials I like to keep them as simple as possible, people get confused when you start teaching techniques to them. Thanks for your comment buddy
Great video... it's amazing how many tips you come across when watching others work, even after years of doing this stuff... You're a credit to the industry, Mate!👍
As a joiner I was taught that your top hat is a little small to your jig so you cut out near to you and the Final cut away so it gives you a nice finish cut but if you do the job right it does look good
Cheers for your comment Simon, we all have different ways of doing things, I would agree with you but I’m teaching people how probably have had little use of a router and that’s essentially a climb cut which is fine when you know you have experience with a router.
Next video should cover out of square mitre joints. Lots of older properties like mine don't have nice square corners. In my case a 2m run is 10mm out of square which would leave a big gap to hide.
It's quite straight forward, if the join is out of square by 10mm over the width of the worktop then the jig must be clamped at 5mm out of square on both male and female cut opposite to gap (10mm) to attain correct radia at front of mitre.
I am Doing a Kitchen for a customer and its worktop day. the first time doing masons mitre thanks to this video and the bolts video. Keep up the great work,
If you are doing a one of job it's worth mentioning that some suppliers will supply your worktop pieces with the mitre already cut, for a very fair price. This certainly worked out well for me.
I've always wondered how that join is done so great explanation. One question - I noticed when you router the female side, the template was on the underside of the benchtop, but on the male side, the template is on the template is on the top?
Hi and thanks for your comment, yes you do this so the router cutter is always feeding in to the edge of the worktop, if you cut the other way you have a very high chance of the Laminate edge breaking out. Hope that makes sense
I'm doing mine tomorrow. Wish I had a better router but I really don't use them much. I'm going on a router course later this year. I retired a couple of years ago, im an electrician, I really want to get working with wood.
I use plenty of color fill in the joint to seal it against moisture ingress, then as well as fitting bolts across the joint I also fit three dowels glued in across the joint to stop any step forming at a later date.
PVA with a bead of colourfill at the top edge is my norm. I'd probably recommend silicone though simply because I've had to snag joints done by bish-bash-boshers and if they use silicone, it's possible to take off the zip bolts and then dislodge the joint and re-glue it with proper alignment. If you tighten the bolts enough that should hold anyway so having a really strong glue is surplus to requirements. The dowel system is new to me, but sounds like a great idea for people like you and me who make sure to get it right when the final fixing of the joint happens. There's no point in recommending it to the speedmerchants though coz they wouldn't have the time.
Hi Mate, how safe/easy is it to move around 2 joined worktops once bolted together as in my case they will be on top of a corner unit with a corousel and a solid top so no access to bolts when its laid on top?
You should be okay to move it but take in to consideration actually being able to get it in place whilst together, you could use a hole saw to cut out where the bolts go, this is what I normally do in this situation
Thanks for video, would you recommend the Trend routers? I am torn between the cheaper Trend T7EK router vs just biting the bullet and getting a Festool 1/2 inch router. Earlier this year I made the mistake of getting a cheap Bosch 1/4 inch router, thinking it might work for these kind of tasks, but it seems that only routers with 1/2 inch bits will work with these templates.
This one was an easy one mate yes, I have had some that are 40mm out but being a beginner tutorial I thought I would start with an easier one, I can do a video on walls that are out if needed
That's easy to do, cut your female on your worktop and put it in position, then depending on the hand of your join either let the male sail over the top of the female and mark along the joint and set your jig to match your pencil line, or if the other hand pack the female worktop up with a couple of off cuts and then slide the male underneath and mark it up on the surface and match the jig to that. Remember to allow 9mm between your marked line and your worktop jig for the guide bush! The jig in this video has a big cut out and if you're tops are out of square this will show in the inset curve at the front of the worktop, it will be gappy and look not very good. If you use what we call a 5mm jig it takes such a small amount out of the worktop it almost looks like a butt joint and will allow joints up to about 15 degrees out of square before it becomes visible! Hope this helps 👍
Yes you can but the thing you have to bare in mind is that these will take on moisture so if you have a damp or leaky shed the might swell. Hope this helps
@@LTWCarpentry cheers it should be ok brand new shed and I put an ir heater in it as it’s my workshop and got 4 benches to build in my wheelchair I’m hoping to get done before winter as been working on it almost a year doing inside insulation rubber flooring and boarded out
Hi mate, love your videos and just giving this a good watching again before diy'ing my own worktops. Did i miss it or did you confirm anywhere yhe size of cutter and guide bush to use?
Hi Dan, thanks for your comment, I use a half inch cutter with a 30mm guide bush, hope this helps mate, good luck and keep me updated with your worktops
@LTWCarpentry first two mitres done, really happy with it, thanks for the videos mate! We have some worktop left over so also going to build in a wee breakfast bar. Hoping to round the corners off with r40mm, anything to be wary of?!
@@danhickman9716 that’s awesome dude ! Glad they came out well ! And always happy to help, no I wouldn’t say anything to be wary off to be honest mate, just take you time and remember to route into the laminate, same as when you did the mitre 👍
Yes if it’s a square edged worktop, if you check out my video on how to join square edged worktops you’ll see how we normally do it. Some will still put a masons mitre but there’s really no need
When cutting the male, I’m unable to cut off as little as possible. I have to leave enough of a over hang to support the back side of the jig as it flex’s/bounces when running the router through… I hope that makes sense, was just wondering if you had any advice on that? Many thanks, really learnt a lot from your channel
What would be the process for combining 2 straight worktops? I'm designing a layout for our outhouse but it is longer than the full length of a single worktop so need to extend with a second.
Very informative video thanks and like others who have commented, I'm going to do it myself on the strength of this. One question please is about router and the router cutter, any particular notes on this selection please other than advising a 1/2" shank and 30mm guide bush ( e.g. cutter spec etc and anything about the router machine itself)? Thank you. ☺
@@LTWCarpentry Great thanks and I found it. That video mentioned a 40mm guide bush for the router but your video "How to install worktop bolts" mentions a 30mm guide bush, could you please clarify on that? Thank you once again.
Not many to be honest mate, I normally buy a new router cutter for each kitchen I do, you can do more but it puts strain on the router and dosnt give as clean a result
I do good quality handyman work inc shooting in new doors and the like.... never had the nerve to do worktops though!!! Too expensive if I cock up.....now I just watched your vid...I'm thinking it's really not that complicated. Great explanation.
That’s awesome mark ! No it’s not complicated just take your time, I might be worth going to b&q or alike and buying some damaged worktops to practice on
@@LTWCarpentry Hi LTW.. I did go back and review the complete video there isn’t anything mentioned about router bit size or type in this video, However you do mention the bit size and type also 1/2” collet size that is recommended with a 30mm guide bush in the bolt hole video great information video though. Thank you.🤓 Just out of interest are all work top jigs the same specifications? I’m asking this because I want to extend my male cut part to an existing Female one already installed over 20years ago to reorganise my kitchen cupboards arrangements do you anticipate and problem doing this??
I don’t unfortunately Michael, next time one comes up I’ll be sure to do a video on it but it’s much the same as jointing square edged worktops which I do have a video on
Ok i am having to do this today and got a question. The worktop is a U so 2 female joints. After cutting the right female is it best to do the left female and then mark the middle worktop to allow the 9mm on both sides? Also am i right to think the left female would be cut with the worktop face up? Thanks for the vid ☺️
Sorry for the delay I’ve been doing worktops myself, how did you get on buddy ? You are bang on with what you asked but you’ve probably done it by now 🍻
@@LTWCarpentry thanks for the reply; first 2 went well but the last one was a mess lol. There was play between the jig and the 30mm guide bush so the cuts wasn't good. I guess I should have routed against both sides of the jig in each pass. But you learn from your mistakes. 👍
I have the same make of jig as you but it doesn't have a hole for 620. I have 616 and 635 but my worktop width is 620 (from B&Q) what would you recommend I do to get around this?
I would set the jig up with all the pins in as normal in the 616 position, mark the end of the jig on the worktop then take the pins out of the 616 slot and move the jig over 4mm to make it 620….. I hope that makes sense.
@@LTWCarpentry thanks for coming back to me. I actually started having a go at this, following your video, passing a little bit at a time as suggested, and it was working really well.. until the router I’m using (borrowed) on the lowest plunge didn’t get all the way through the worktop (it’s gone about half the width) and as it’s a foreign make, it doesn’t take the typical 1/2 or 1/4 inch attachments 😢 So I’m going to get my own! Would you mind letting me know the model of the Trend one you have? I’ve read 1/2 is better as they are longer. But I thought I would ask. At least I know then it will make it all the way through!
My next door neighbour is in the process of getting a kitchen fitted 9.5k! The worktop is laminated but has been butted up without a jig cut and theres a 3 mm gap with filler and some chipping? Any advice please???
Hey mate, thank you for the video. I'm installing a worktop for the first time and was wondering if i can use my makita trimmer (with base) with a 1/4 inch router bit with the trend jigs? and also what diameter guide bush should i use with the trend unibase adapter?
Hi buddy, no I’m afraid not, I have a video on the channel explaining all the tools you will need, it was only a couple of videos ago. Check that one out mate 👍🏻
I find that adding biscuits between the clamp cut-outs helps to keep the top face flush when tightening the bolts. Also as a guide to how deep to cut with each pass, the depth of cut should not exceed the narrowest diameter of the cutter e.g. 12mm cutter with 12mm shank = 12mm max. 12mm cutter with 6mm shank = 6mm max. 10mm cutter with 12mm shank = 10mm max. etc.
12mm deep I would say is way to much for a 12mm cutter. I get that thats a guide but you will be putting excess strain on the router and the cutter. I normally use dominos but as this is a beginner tutorial I kept it basic
Not a fan of silicone in the joint myself as its not what its designed for but each to their own, i like to ues bb complete don't think there's anything better on the market. As for your end strips, do you think it would be easier to do them first before you joint it all together? Put it on with evo keeping it flush with the top edge then buzz around it with a laminate trimmer, comes out like it was done in the factory, that's how I do them. Just my 2 cents, nice job though, as long as the end result is good it doesn't matter how you get there i suppose 👍
You have a thing called a bush that connects to the bottom of the router, if you look on my channel I have a video called “what tools do I need for kitchen worktops”
Hi there, brilliant video is there anyway I can make contact direct with you regarding a kitchen worktop refurbishment which was6as successful as I would have hoped?
You’ve only shown how to do a 90* corner solution which I’ve very rarely found. Maybe cut away the bulk of the excess material away with a jigsaw rather than 5 passes of router.
@@LTWCarpentry dory this is the 1st one I found in my suggestion box. I’ll hunt out the others as it’s always interesting comparing notes as to how others do what you do.
Nice video . Do you ever use biscuits or dowels ? Oly ask as some folk that do these say they do plus when I bit the bullet and had dome help in few years ago (mainly as Mrs dome my head in lol) after less than 6 months they'd misaligned ..I had called on the guy that did them (3 cuts /joins ) and was reluctant to bother sorting it ..they all have lippage now ty
Yes I normally put dominos in but that will only help with alignment, that won’t help with the swelling or lipping, it sound like he hasn’t put enough or any sealant in it.
@LTWCarpentry he said he used silicone etc maybe not enough . I'll be doing jy own next time u did attempt it and was going well ..only mistake I made was trying to offset the cut but in hindsight I should have cut with extra at the smaller piece to but dry and see what gap I'm looking at ..not try and be a smart ass lol . Didn't scribe anything lole end panels etc ..never again . I've got a good jig and decent plunge router I've barely used as I've got a smaller router 4 small jobs in my shed etc ..your work looks tidy . Ps the fitter told me my jig wasn't Amy good as it only has an 1 angle/return I pointed out that it flips over ..dull get
Good if walls are square. Need to scribe male if not. Can sometimes be pain to get depth of male 100% . Might need to adjust male depths so join is perfect.
Yes I normally use dominos but as this video is a beginner tutorial I wanted to keep the tooling as simple as possible, I would strongly suggest it though 👍🏻
Fun fact the Maisons mite use to be the 45 degree or more joint cut work top . What we do today is a Hickory Joint modern terms Maisons mitre . 🤷♂️ I did mitred mine the 45 looks much nicer and less visible but you gotta seal it well and make it near perfect level and well fixed cabinets below.
I hate it when people think it’s quicker to do the mitre in 2-3 passes with the router screaming for mercy and the router bit burning. 😂 Nice video mate. 👍🏻
Silicone every time as you get a bit of time to play with the joint. I’ve fitted some customer supplied crap work tops that are bowed and had to use 3 dog bone connectors and had to force out the bow by punching 50 x 25 struts off the ceiling. If cutting off a large overhand cut the excess first to save straining the Formica. Some of the 1st jigs made were from aluminium and were over £100 a go. How times have changed
Thanks for excellent video will watch bolt video feeling alot more confident about tackling the job
Cheers Pete! Thanks for the comment and I hope it goes well 🍻👍
Top job mate isn’t it strange I do this week in week out for 26 years and still watch channels like yours our lass thinks I’m mad
Yes mate I’m the same, I watch them all night 😂😂 and my mrs says the same
Same here mate 14 years into it, love it
@@kyleaustin3573 I’m at 17 years in and still watch carpenters and woodworkers 😂😂
@@LTWCarpentry I watch most trades! My pegs are very tight like yours and they were supplied pegs with Howdens jig.
I also pass router along back edge of jig and then use front edge as a finishing cut as there is 1mm of play in my jig and guide bush
@@kyleaustin3573 ohh really this one was great with the supplied ones but they are long gone 😂😂
Subbed, purely for actually being so detailed on the steps.
Thank you John ! Glad to have you board
After this tutorial I would now attempt to fit my own worktops. Very clearly delivered lesson. Cheers.
Thanks for the support Gareth !
I was taught to use the opposite edge of the guide slot to make the preliminary cuts and then a full depth pass against the side of the slot nearest the cut. That's why the slot is a couple of mm wider than the guide bush.
Yes I do this sometimes also, with these tutorials I like to keep them as simple as possible, people get confused when you start teaching techniques to them. Thanks for your comment buddy
That's the correct way!
Thanks for your time.
Yes - that is the correct way :-)
Beautifully clear. Thankyou. I'm been a bit nervy about attempting this.
Cheers buddy 🍻👍
Great video... it's amazing how many tips you come across when watching others work, even after years of doing this stuff... You're a credit to the industry, Mate!👍
Cheers Marc ! That was a really nice comment buddy !
Completely agree mate ! Always learning new ways of doing stuff !
Everyday is a school day !
🍻
Hi , i watched the video 3 times before attempting . Adating some old kitchen units for my garage workshop . Happly with the result
That’s brilliant buddy ! Really glad these videos helped ! Thanks for the support !
I watched a lot of videos, but yours is easy and simple. Thanks.
Thank you very much ! Glad I could help !
As a joiner I was taught that your top hat is a little small to your jig so you cut out near to you and the Final cut away so it gives you a nice finish cut but if you do the job right it does look good
Cheers for your comment Simon, we all have different ways of doing things, I would agree with you but I’m teaching people how probably have had little use of a router and that’s essentially a climb cut which is fine when you know you have experience with a router.
Next video should cover out of square mitre joints. Lots of older properties like mine don't have nice square corners. In my case a 2m run is 10mm out of square which would leave a big gap to hide.
Absolutely!
It's quite straight forward, if the join is out of square by 10mm over the width of the worktop then the jig must be clamped at 5mm out of square on both male and female cut opposite to gap (10mm) to attain correct radia at front of mitre.
I am Doing a Kitchen for a customer and its worktop day. the first time doing masons mitre thanks to this video and the bolts video. Keep up the great work,
Cheer Oliver ! How did the mitres come out ?
Great videos this was the only thing I was worried about doing my self THANKYOU I not only design kitchens but also fit them 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Cheers buddy I’m glad it was helpful 👍
If you are doing a one of job it's worth mentioning that some suppliers will supply your worktop pieces with the mitre already cut, for a very fair price. This certainly worked out well for me.
This is very true
Mate you made that look as easy as sitting round a swimming pool in Spain 👊
😂😂 nice one mate, deffo easier where I am now 🍻
Great videos very informative thank you, I like to know what type of silicone you use to join the worktops? many thanks
Hiya buddy thanks for your comment its much appreciated, I use DOW785 silicone, I hope that helps 👍🍻
Do you have a video that shows how to cope with out of square walls. I've always managed myself but wondered if this might benefit others.
Hi buddy, yes I have it’s on the channel buddy, thanks for the comment 🍻
Brilliant video What happens if the walls are not completely square?
Then you need to watch my video on how to solve this, there is a playlist on my channel called “kitchen worktops” you’ll find it in there buddy
I've always wondered how that join is done so great explanation. One question - I noticed when you router the female side, the template was on the underside of the benchtop, but on the male side, the template is on the template is on the top?
Hi and thanks for your comment, yes you do this so the router cutter is always feeding in to the edge of the worktop, if you cut the other way you have a very high chance of the Laminate edge breaking out. Hope that makes sense
I'm doing mine tomorrow. Wish I had a better router but I really don't use them much. I'm going on a router course later this year. I retired a couple of years ago, im an electrician, I really want to get working with wood.
Have a look on Facebook market place mate, routers often pop up on there. You should be able to get a dewalt or a trend for not a lot of money buddy.
@@LTWCarpentry I've ordered a dewalt palm router on ebay, was going for £99! Brand new. I'd like to get a Dewalt plunge router at some point.
@@LTWCarpentry Sink and masons mitre all done! Thanks to your video.
@@ourfrugallife they are a great little router ! You can’t go wrong, I would buy the trend over the dewalt plung router, same router just cheaper
Very good professional job, what about corian worktops is that different to mate corners?
Does it matter what size guide bush and router bit you use with these jigs?
Hi, yes it does these are designed to work with a 30mm guide bush and a 1/2” router cutter. 🍻
I use plenty of color fill in the joint to seal it against moisture ingress, then as well as fitting bolts across the joint I also fit three dowels glued in across the joint to stop any step forming at a later date.
PVA with a bead of colourfill at the top edge is my norm. I'd probably recommend silicone though simply because I've had to snag joints done by bish-bash-boshers and if they use silicone, it's possible to take off the zip bolts and then dislodge the joint and re-glue it with proper alignment. If you tighten the bolts enough that should hold anyway so having a really strong glue is surplus to requirements. The dowel system is new to me, but sounds like a great idea for people like you and me who make sure to get it right when the final fixing of the joint happens. There's no point in recommending it to the speedmerchants though coz they wouldn't have the time.
Hi Mate, how safe/easy is it to move around 2 joined worktops once bolted together as in my case they will be on top of a corner unit with a corousel and a solid top so no access to bolts when its laid on top?
You should be okay to move it but take in to consideration actually being able to get it in place whilst together, you could use a hole saw to cut out where the bolts go, this is what I normally do in this situation
Will this work for square edge tops?
There’s a video on my channel about square edged worktops mate, go to the playlist title “kitchen worktops”
Thank you!
Thank you!
What diameter cutting bit would you use so that it removes the right amount of
1/2inch router cutter with a 30mm guide bush is what you need
Do you have to use a half inch collet router or can you get away with quater inch?
I wouldn’t recommend using a quarter inch, it won’t have the power needed, plus you need a 1/2” router cutter for this to work. Cheers 🍻
Thanks for video, would you recommend the Trend routers?
I am torn between the cheaper Trend T7EK router vs just biting the bullet and getting a Festool 1/2 inch router. Earlier this year I made the mistake of getting a cheap Bosch 1/4 inch router, thinking it might work for these kind of tasks, but it seems that only routers with 1/2 inch bits will work with these templates.
Yes mate I really like my router, I didn’t miss a beat and it takes some abuse ! Been using it for a good few years now ! This is the t10
And yes only the 1/2” routers will work with the worktop templates buddy, the 1/4” router still have there place though
Nice work , Thank you for all the helpful information.🎉
Your more then welcome ! Thank you for your comment and support ! 🍻
Good video I take it you had nice square walls. When I have done this joint the walls are out off square bit of a pain.
This one was an easy one mate yes, I have had some that are 40mm out but being a beginner tutorial I thought I would start with an easier one, I can do a video on walls that are out if needed
@@LTWCarpentry Thanks for the reply that would be interesting video cheers mate
@@tonyskeet8583 no probs at all buddy 👍🏻
This is great idea, I would definitely love to see a video where you tackle out of square walls.
Great series of worktop installation btw!
Thanks!
That's easy to do, cut your female on your worktop and put it in position, then depending on the hand of your join either let the male sail over the top of the female and mark along the joint and set your jig to match your pencil line, or if the other hand pack the female worktop up with a couple of off cuts and then slide the male underneath and mark it up on the surface and match the jig to that. Remember to allow 9mm between your marked line and your worktop jig for the guide bush!
The jig in this video has a big cut out and if you're tops are out of square this will show in the inset curve at the front of the worktop, it will be gappy and look not very good.
If you use what we call a 5mm jig it takes such a small amount out of the worktop it almost looks like a butt joint and will allow joints up to about 15 degrees out of square before it becomes visible!
Hope this helps 👍
Can I ask you as your an expert can you put work tops in a shed to use as a workbench the standard type cheers
Yes you can but the thing you have to bare in mind is that these will take on moisture so if you have a damp or leaky shed the might swell. Hope this helps
@@LTWCarpentry cheers it should be ok brand new shed and I put an ir heater in it as it’s my workshop and got 4 benches to build in my wheelchair I’m hoping to get done before winter as been working on it almost a year doing inside insulation rubber flooring and boarded out
Hi mate
What can I use to seal the exposed chipboard in the laminate
Paranoid about it getting damp
Hi mate you can use a silicon or a wether proof ova glue 🍻
Outstanding work!
Thanks ever so much!
Cheers!
Cheers bob ! Greatly appreciated
Hi mate, love your videos and just giving this a good watching again before diy'ing my own worktops.
Did i miss it or did you confirm anywhere yhe size of cutter and guide bush to use?
Hi Dan, thanks for your comment, I use a half inch cutter with a 30mm guide bush, hope this helps mate, good luck and keep me updated with your worktops
@@LTWCarpentry will do mate, 24 hour delay due to storm Babet, got all the old ones out now so a blank canvas... Will let you know tomorrow!
@@danhickman9716 brilliant buddy, any questions fire away 👍
@LTWCarpentry first two mitres done, really happy with it, thanks for the videos mate! We have some worktop left over so also going to build in a wee breakfast bar. Hoping to round the corners off with r40mm, anything to be wary of?!
@@danhickman9716 that’s awesome dude ! Glad they came out well ! And always happy to help, no I wouldn’t say anything to be wary off to be honest mate, just take you time and remember to route into the laminate, same as when you did the mitre
👍
good job professional finish
Thank you buddy 🍻
Is it common for kitchen fitters to use straight cuts in the corners of worktops? As this has happened in my new £13k kitchen from Howdens.
Yes if it’s a square edged worktop, if you check out my video on how to join square edged worktops you’ll see how we normally do it. Some will still put a masons mitre but there’s really no need
Please could you explain what you mean by the 9mm gap to the router? I don't quite get it
When you use a router with a 30mm guide bush and an 1/2” router cutter you are left with a 9mm difference that’s made up by the jig
Great summary mate!
Nice one Darren 🍻
When cutting the male, I’m unable to cut off as little as possible. I have to leave enough of a over hang to support the back side of the jig as it flex’s/bounces when running the router through… I hope that makes sense, was just wondering if you had any advice on that? Many thanks, really learnt a lot from your channel
Whats the benefit compared to straight extension without miter cut?
When you have round over on the worktop you need to do a scribe joint of some description, this is the best and easiest way
What would be the process for combining 2 straight worktops? I'm designing a layout for our outhouse but it is longer than the full length of a single worktop so need to extend with a second.
Hey mate, very informative post. Thank you. I saw that you used the UNIKA brand. I was looking on amazon. What is the actual jig called?
I’m not actually sure mate, it dosnt have the model on it, if in the uk have a look at Toolstation
Any problem with adding biscuit or dominos to ensure that the tops of the pieces remain flush?
No not at all, in fact it will improve the bond so I would suggest doing it
Thanks mate that was a great video explained really well . 👍🏻
Glad I could help buddy ! Thank for the comment 🍻
Do you not need to use biscuits aswell as bolts?
You don’t need to buy it dose mate life easier for alignment
Would biscuits in the joint help with keeping them flush
Yes they would I normally use dominos but wanted to keep it simple for the videos
Very informative video thanks and like others who have commented, I'm going to do it myself on the strength of this. One question please is about router and the router cutter, any particular notes on this selection please other than advising a 1/2" shank and 30mm guide bush ( e.g. cutter spec etc and anything about the router machine itself)? Thank you. ☺
Have a look at the video on my channel about what tools you need buddy, there is a playlist called kitchen worktops on my channel mate
@@LTWCarpentry Great thanks and I found it. That video mentioned a 40mm guide bush for the router but your video "How to install worktop bolts" mentions a 30mm guide bush, could you please clarify on that? Thank you once again.
@ sorry yes 30mm
@LTWCarpentry Excellent, many thanks. 😊
What size bit have you used for this please?
Attempting first worktop next weekend 😬
If you mean router cutter I used a 1/2” cutter.
That's it, thankyou so much.. wish my worktops luck 🤞🏼
Amazing craftsmanship
Thank you very much ! 🍻
How do you use the jig if your worktop is 596mm rather than 600mm?
I would move my jig of the back peg by 4mm to account for the difference
How many worktop cuts would you get from a new router bit please ?
Not many to be honest mate, I normally buy a new router cutter for each kitchen I do, you can do more but it puts strain on the router and dosnt give as clean a result
Thanks I thought as much@@LTWCarpentry
Do you cut the end off with a router too or a circular saw?
Hi buddy, I just use a circular saw with a nice new blade in it 👍
I do good quality handyman work inc shooting in new doors and the like.... never had the nerve to do worktops though!!! Too expensive if I cock up.....now I just watched your vid...I'm thinking it's really not that complicated.
Great explanation.
That’s awesome mark ! No it’s not complicated just take your time, I might be worth going to b&q or alike and buying some damaged worktops to practice on
What style of router bit are you using?? Top bearing or bottom bearing?
It’s just a straight 1/2 router cutter, check out the beginning of the video again I explain the tools required
@@LTWCarpentry Hi LTW.. I did go back and review the complete video there isn’t anything mentioned about router bit size or type in this video, However you do mention the bit size and type also 1/2” collet size that is recommended with a 30mm guide bush in the bolt hole video great information video though. Thank you.🤓
Just out of interest are all work top jigs the same specifications? I’m asking this because I want to extend my male cut part to an existing Female one already installed over 20years ago to reorganise my kitchen cupboards arrangements do you anticipate and problem doing this??
I have to extend a worktop because can't get one long enough. Do you have a video for butting worktops together to make longer?
I don’t unfortunately Michael, next time one comes up I’ll be sure to do a video on it but it’s much the same as jointing square edged worktops which I do have a video on
lovely job mate. cheers
Thanks for your comment buddy! 🍻👍
Ok i am having to do this today and got a question. The worktop is a U so 2 female joints.
After cutting the right female is it best to do the left female and then mark the middle worktop to allow the 9mm on both sides? Also am i right to think the left female would be cut with the worktop face up?
Thanks for the vid ☺️
Sorry for the delay I’ve been doing worktops myself, how did you get on buddy ?
You are bang on with what you asked but you’ve probably done it by now 🍻
@@LTWCarpentry thanks for the reply; first 2 went well but the last one was a mess lol.
There was play between the jig and the 30mm guide bush so the cuts wasn't good. I guess I should have routed against both sides of the jig in each pass.
But you learn from your mistakes. 👍
Would you use silicone on the joint of a real wooden worktop many thanks.
No on real wood worktops I tend to use a waterproof wood glue
Great any particular one you recommend many thanks
@@lukestyles2615 I use generic exterior grade pva mate
Thanks 👍
Cheers, clear instructions, no faffing about 😊
Cheers buddy, really appreciate it 🍻
Nice job , well explained, what silicone do you recommend ? Respect to you a good tradesman 👍
I have the same make of jig as you but it doesn't have a hole for 620. I have 616 and 635 but my worktop width is 620 (from B&Q) what would you recommend I do to get around this?
I would set the jig up with all the pins in as normal in the 616 position, mark the end of the jig on the worktop then take the pins out of the 616 slot and move the jig over 4mm to make it 620….. I hope that makes sense.
Thank you, that makes perfect sense I guess I was over thinking it.
@@keenbfb your more then welcome, just make sure you move it the right way 👍🏻
Could use the 635 and place a 15mm spacer/packer between the jig pin and worktop Which would make it like a 635 worktop if that makes sense..
Excellent job, I love you're videos, thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks buddy, I really appreciate your comment, it’s nice to know people are enjoying my videos 👍🏻
Great video mate 👍
Cheers Michael! Much appreciated 👍🍻
Should you always do F first before M?
No real rule of that but it’s easier to get your measurements that way
@@LTWCarpentry thanks for coming back to me. I actually started having a go at this, following your video, passing a little bit at a time as suggested, and it was working really well.. until the router I’m using (borrowed) on the lowest plunge didn’t get all the way through the worktop (it’s gone about half the width) and as it’s a foreign make, it doesn’t take the typical 1/2 or 1/4 inch attachments 😢
So I’m going to get my own! Would you mind letting me know the model of the Trend one you have? I’ve read 1/2 is better as they are longer. But I thought I would ask. At least I know then it will make it all the way through!
My next door neighbour is in the process of getting a kitchen fitted 9.5k! The worktop is laminated but has been butted up without a jig cut and theres a 3 mm gap with filler and some chipping? Any advice please???
Hey mate, thank you for the video. I'm installing a worktop for the first time and was wondering if i can use my makita trimmer (with base) with a 1/4 inch router bit with the trend jigs? and also what diameter guide bush should i use with the trend unibase adapter?
Hi buddy, no I’m afraid not, I have a video on the channel explaining all the tools you will need, it was only a couple of videos ago. Check that one out mate 👍🏻
@@LTWCarpentry Cheers mate, i thought that would be the cas;e. I just brought a trend 1/2 inch router :)
Would be good if you showed the router bit, I'm not sure what to buy.
Hi buddy, it’s a half inch straight cut bit, hope that helps 👍🍻
If the wall isn't 90°??
I find that adding biscuits between the clamp cut-outs helps to keep the top face flush when tightening the bolts. Also as a guide to how deep to cut with each pass, the depth of cut should not exceed the narrowest diameter of the cutter e.g. 12mm cutter with 12mm shank = 12mm max. 12mm cutter with 6mm shank = 6mm max. 10mm cutter with 12mm shank = 10mm max. etc.
12mm deep I would say is way to much for a 12mm cutter. I get that thats a guide but you will be putting excess strain on the router and the cutter. I normally use dominos but as this is a beginner tutorial I kept it basic
I genuinely having kit kats between breaks, than biscuits.
@@m101ist is a Kit Kat not a biscuit 😂 genuine question, my friend wants to know 😬
What about the tear out at the bottom (face)?
Wouldn't it be better to have a piece of plywood under it?
You don’t get tear out with laminate
Not a fan of silicone in the joint myself as its not what its designed for but each to their own, i like to ues bb complete don't think there's anything better on the market.
As for your end strips, do you think it would be easier to do them first before you joint it all together?
Put it on with evo keeping it flush with the top edge then buzz around it with a laminate trimmer, comes out like it was done in the factory, that's how I do them.
Just my 2 cents, nice job though, as long as the end result is good it doesn't matter how you get there i suppose 👍
What brand are the clamps?
The are bessy duo clamps mate
How does the Router centre in the jig?
You have a thing called a bush that connects to the bottom of the router, if you look on my channel I have a video called “what tools do I need for kitchen worktops”
@@LTWCarpentry Great, I'll check them out.
Nicely done 😎 good video
Cheer buddy ! 🍻
How do you avoid chipping of the laminate
Sharp tools are you best friend that and cutting from the underside where possible
Hi there, brilliant video is there anyway I can make contact direct with you regarding a kitchen worktop refurbishment which was6as successful as I would have hoped?
You can indeed buddy, are you on Instagram at all ?
Hi mate,is that normal bathroom silicone.
Hi mate, yes kitchen and bathroom sealant
how do you get rid of the silicone?
Let it dry then it will peel off buddy
You’ve only shown how to do a 90* corner solution which I’ve very rarely found.
Maybe cut away the bulk of the excess material away with a jigsaw rather than 5 passes of router.
There are loads of worktops videos on my channel buddy, I have shown all solutions
@@LTWCarpentry dory this is the 1st one I found in my suggestion box. I’ll hunt out the others as it’s always interesting comparing notes as to how others do what you do.
Hi mate, great vid. Someone fitted my wood laminate worktop and there’s white glue residue near the join. What can I use to remove it?
Hi mate are they real wood worktops ?
@@LTWCarpentry No the laminate ones
@@Wellard83 you can try some nail varnish remover mate, but try it on a small section that’s not visible first to be on the safe side mate
Nice video . Do you ever use biscuits or dowels ? Oly ask as some folk that do these say they do plus when I bit the bullet and had dome help in few years ago (mainly as Mrs dome my head in lol) after less than 6 months they'd misaligned ..I had called on the guy that did them (3 cuts /joins ) and was reluctant to bother sorting it ..they all have lippage now ty
Yes I normally put dominos in but that will only help with alignment, that won’t help with the swelling or lipping, it sound like he hasn’t put enough or any sealant in it.
@LTWCarpentry he said he used silicone etc maybe not enough . I'll be doing jy own next time u did attempt it and was going well ..only mistake I made was trying to offset the cut but in hindsight I should have cut with extra at the smaller piece to but dry and see what gap I'm looking at ..not try and be a smart ass lol . Didn't scribe anything lole end panels etc ..never again . I've got a good jig and decent plunge router I've barely used as I've got a smaller router 4 small jobs in my shed etc ..your work looks tidy .
Ps the fitter told me my jig wasn't Amy good as it only has an 1 angle/return I pointed out that it flips over ..dull get
Good if walls are square. Need to scribe male if not. Can sometimes be pain to get depth of male 100% . Might need to adjust male depths so join is perfect.
Cheers for the comment buddy, I actually have another video on my channel showing this process
Great video mate 👏👏👏
Cheers vic 👍🏻
Great video. the only difference was when I was making a masons mitre I used masking take to the face side.
Thanks for the comment Robert, yes I have done this in the past aswell
The only thing I would suggest is some biscuits along the joint to help alignment.
Yes I normally use dominos but as this video is a beginner tutorial I wanted to keep the tooling as simple as possible, I would strongly suggest it though 👍🏻
Nice one mate, just subscribed 👍
Cheers buddy ! Glad to have you on board, if you want any videos in anything just ask
@@LTWCarpentry no probs and cheers will do
Hi mate if I want to learn fittings kitchen could you help me please?i based in London
Yes of course mate, let me know what you need help with and I’ll do a video on it
@@LTWCarpentry I want to work with you
Top job!
Cheers buddy ! Much appreciated ! 🍻
Bushboard Complete adhesive is far superior to silicone and comes in lots of matching worktop colours.
Very nice 👌
Cheers mate 🍻
How do you do a mason mitre in an out of square room?
Hi buddy i have a video of this on the channel if you have a scroll through it will be there, hope that helps 👍🍻
Fun fact the Maisons mite use to be the 45 degree or more joint cut work top . What we do today is a Hickory Joint modern terms Maisons mitre . 🤷♂️
I did mitred mine the 45 looks much nicer and less visible but you gotta seal it well and make it near perfect level and well fixed cabinets below.
What if the wall is not square
Please check my most recent video
Brilliant thank you
Thank you for your comment 🍻
thanks useful info
Thank you very much 🍻
I hate it when people think it’s quicker to do the mitre in 2-3 passes with the router screaming for mercy and the router bit burning. 😂
Nice video mate. 👍🏻
Mate I have seen router cutter free them self from working them to hard ! Can be scary ! 🍻
Nice video only thing is you did not have any PPE on, goggles, ear defenders, safety shoes etc
Thanks for you comment
Nice job, interesting to use silicone for all. Will try it on next one.
Cheers for your comment buddy, I really appreciate it 👍🏻
Great video give me confidence to do it myself, thanks
Thanks for the comment Robert ! 🍻
Silicone every time as you get a bit of time to play with the joint. I’ve fitted some customer supplied crap work tops that are bowed and had to use 3 dog bone connectors and had to force out the bow by punching 50 x 25 struts off the ceiling.
If cutting off a large overhand cut the excess first to save straining the Formica.
Some of the 1st jigs made were from aluminium and were over £100 a go. How times have changed
Completely agree buddy ! Yes mate I remover them jigs ! They where decent though to be fair ! 🍻