I Have to Share This Secret Before I Retire
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
- Brake pad replacement. Doing This Will Make Your Brakes Work Better and Last Longer, DIY life hacks and car repair with auto mechanic Scotty Kilmer. Life hack that will make your car's brakes work better and last longer. How to make brakes last longer. How to make brakes work smoother. Brake noise and brake repair. How to fix noisy brake pads. Brake problems. Brake life hacks. Car Advice. DIY car repair with Scotty Kilmer, an auto mechanic for the last 56 years.
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I thought it is a bad practice to simply squeeze in the caliper piston on these newer brake systems. Something has been said about forcing the fluid back into the system can cause damage. ?
i took the lockers off and put regular lug nuts on.
We are gathered here to remember the king of youtube automotive/Comedic genius that made us laugh 4 years 🥀
See you tomorrow Scotty... and later today! :P
@SheppardsinthefieldsBethlehem That wasn't my point. I have seen several mechanics state that the fluid should never be forced BACK INTO these newer abs systems. The proper method to collapse the piston, would be to crack the bleeder and push the fluid out of the caliper instead and NOT back up the line into the system.
Shout out to all the fathers (mine included) that taught their children how to change their own brake pads and oil. SO much money saved over the years!
Not just money, it’s good knowledge to have
Started doing my own maintance this year, 15 years of drive later, but better now than never. So much money saved
What was the name of the expensive pads that Scotty likes?
I had RUclips for that, but I plan to teach my kids as best as I can!
@@DarkForce2024 thanks….that’s what I am telling my mechanic I want
Do not forget to clean and regrease the caliper slide pins with brake grease if you live in the rust belt.
Do you people understand that you do not see everything that's done in a video?
@@donniev8181 Who are you people? Do you mean people who watch these videos and copy exactly what Scotty is doing because they did not bother to read shop manuals?
@MrPoppyDuck dude, if you think he shows every little detail of the job in a 10 minute video, you're dumber than a bag of hammers! Plus, there's no need to do all of the extra every time you change pads, especially if the pads are wearing evenly and the rotors are in good condition!
Rust belt or not, always clean and lube the pins. It's an extra 30 seconds 🙄
Don't forget the Salt belt too! Rust belt being costal and Salt being midwest.
I don't know how many videos of yours I have watched. My dad was a garage mechanic I had the pleasure of working with him for 5 years until his passing in 1971. He helped hundreds of people get their car fixed, sometimes for little or nothing, just to get someone where they needed to go. Thanks for your service. Robert
Be sure to inhale the brake cleaner fumes to enhance your experience
The chlorinated stuff is best for that! 😉
I prefer snorting the dust, myself.
I rip fat sniff before starting all the work, it makes the experience way more fun
Scotty's big secret.
If there's no brake fluid is there something else you can use as a replacement
Scotty gets it done but there is (was) some finer detail points missed! Tip: I often use the old inner pad to push Caliper Piston back in so as not to scar the piston with Pliers Teeth.
Git er done.... AIN'T IT JUST AIN'T IT 😜 lols
Ditto - I was cringing watching him put the adjustable pliers directly on the piston(s). Just use one of the old pads to evenly distribute pressure against the piston AND, as you stated, to protect the piston from damage by the pliers.
Good tip
Or just use a quick clamp making contact with the inside and not the edge...
Bingo... or put a big socket in there, better yet- pushing closer to center helps the piston to align going back in. @@jljackson1983
I usually crack open the cap on the master cylinder before I start
Its always good practice to pull and wipe the pins and apply new silicone paste.
Sometimes these are stiff or even seized.
Yeah so many shops don't do that and by the time you start feeling the issues the repair is no longer under warranty.
I never did that for years and never had a problem BUT , then one day I DID have a pin get stuck and I NEVER made that mistake again. It only takes one time to learn a lesson!
@@henryhallmann4282thank God I went to trade school and learned from 23 years ago so I've never had this problem on my own vehicles, but have seen it on others where the pin snapped inside the bracket it was so rusted in there and had to buy a new one and waste time when an extra 30 seconds of lubing the pin would've saved it during the previous brake job. Some people just don't know but most are just lazy and rushing the job!
for sure!
Yes, silicone. Don't use petroleum grease on pins that slide in rubber or they will lock in a few moves. OK for steel on steel.
I've always used a C clamp to push the calipers back in. Never had a fancy pair of channel locks. 😅
Yep. C clamp. Works great. Been doing that for 40 years.
I’m with you on the c-clamp. I also leave the old pad in there instead of pressing directly against the piston to avoid damaging it.
You can also use the old pad as a shim to push it in evenly.
The two fella's above me nailed it: use an 8-inch C-clamp, _AND_ the old, about-to-be-replaced brake-pad. Very, very cheap, easy, and effective.
Works better if you take the outer pad off the remount then get a lever in the gap you created works like a dream no special tools
Also replace the brake hardware and apply brake grease to the pads where they contact the caliper so the pads do not stick.
Good advice. Service places are always saying replace the rotors when you get a brake job. They just want the part markup. Scotty is always straight up honest.
One thing I like to do is use the old brake pad when compressing the brake caliper piston.
Just lay it in place then use a c clamp or channel locks and compress it so that the teeth of the channel locks don't score or scratch the piston or the rubber, this is just how my dad taught me and how I have always done it, doesn't take any longer and assures that you don't damage your piston, probably over kill but safety first.
I would have never pushed the piston back in like you did. I have seen them get cockeyed, snap in two, bend. At the very least if I had to use channel locks I would have used the old pad across the piston so I could get in the middle of the piston of course I have the correct tools. Damn nice job Scotty.
I always use the old brake pad & a C-clamp,goes down straight & smooth
Don’t the caliper bolts need that grease as well?
@@modus_operandi2508 I always open them before i remove them. But, to each his own.
be glad you don't have to use one of those hellraiser puzzle cubes.
I have done it that way and never had a problem. But, yeah, it could screw them up. I bought a fairly inexpensive tool for that from Harbor Freight and it works great. It's actually easier to do as well.
If you're only changing pads....no need to remove both the top and bottom 14mm bolts.....just remove the lower one.....loosen the top...and SWING the caliper up and out of the way ( tie down). You have all the access you need to remove and reinstall pads.
Why would you not resurface or change out rotors? Seems like a 1/2 a$s J.O.B.
@@BibW-t5g I've replaced dozens of brake pads and brake shoes on my family cars and have never resurfaced nor changed rotors. Good for you for going the extra mile. To each his own, I guess.
He does these videos to help others learn
@@BibW-t5gif you change pads early enough, you don't need to do that.
@@BibW-t5g Nobody should pay anybody to "resurface" rotors. You can get new ones for $50-$60 each. No reason to trust someone will do as good as factory finish when you could just get new ones for the same price. Nobody is resurfacing rotors for $20.
Scotty you should tell the people watching your video . When doing disc brakes after replacing pads and having to push the pistons back into the piston caliper bores so the pad fit. They will have to press the brake peddle to get the pistons back against the pads before driving the car. If they just get in the car and back it out without doing that. When they step on the peddle the car will not stop. Also most rear disc brakes require a special tool the reset the rear brake pistons. Also they need to know the brake reservoir the brake fluid will be lower. If they added fluid when they push the pistons back in the caliper bores. The fluid they added will over flow. I use the reservoir to check my pad wear. If it starts the get lower I know the look at my pads.
I never really was interested in the mechanics of cars until I found your channel Scotty. Now I want to become a mechanic…..but all three of my sons are very good ones. I’m trying to get them to watch your channel, because you’re full of all sorts of amazing secrets.
So, what's the "SECRET" before you retire, AGAIN, for the 25th time in the last 5 years?
Yet again you.are still watching the good content
@@jaimeramirez-zt9dd Naah, we're still watching the pretty bad content to see if there is some gold nugget of his amazing knowledge since he became an auto mechanic at the age of about 14...
I think his secret was to not buy new rotors unless they’re really bad
😂
Clean any rust off the hub faces before installing rotors. And put some lube on the pad ears as well.
Hey Scotty, you didn’t mention about the brake fluid reservoir , checking the level when the pistons are pressed in. Cheers Scotty ..
No need to. You just did announce it! Thanks 🙏.
To be fair; pressing the pistons in isn't going to raise the level that much. Even still, when you press down on the brake, it'll return to normal. Just something he overlooked because it isn't really a concern.
And put on couple of lug nuts on to hold the rotor in place, while finishing the brake job.
Check guide pins move freely?
FORGOT... to grease the brake pad shims/sliders and caliper bolts.
Great video 👍
Maybe I missed but I didn't see you Lube the Slide Pins...
Can use the wheel lug nuts to hold the rotor in place while installing the callipers
That looks so simple. I just changed the brakes - rotors, calipers, and brackets - on my F250 because I had a sticky caliper bracket. I am lucky it didn't warp the rotor really. Those brackets were so tight though I had to jack those bolts off there. The rotors weren't too bad to get off, it took a 4x4 and sledge hammer nudge but they were decent, so I had them turned, put a little oil on them and stuck them in the boxes the new ones came in and on a shelf for a later date. That stuff is too expensive to waste. I did the rear ones last year, hubs out. It should be set up good for a few more years. I usually only change pads but 150,000 have passed so I just did it. It was a lot of work for an old woman. It took me 2 days, but I was determined.
Spraying some WD-40 on stuck rusty bolts and letting it sit for a while makes them come off much easier
Clean and re-lub the slide pins. Also, wire wheel under the stainless steal slides and light lub..
Thanks again Scotty, not quite as easy for us rookies but, definitely attainable and well worth the savings.
Push back the rear caliper pistons on a 2018+ Equinox without opening the bleeders, and you will be buying, and programming a new ABS module.......
Glad to see Scotty is showing ppl the right way with using a torque wrench with the manufacturer recommended torque. You'd be surprised how many mechanics ignore this. If your lucky you might get them to check it.
Up here in thr Glorious People's Republic of Canuckistan, that original front rotor would have been consider pristine
Also here in Hawaii
Mine on my 96 K1500 looked pristine too. But they were slightly warped. Just enough to shake when brakes applied. Looks can be deceiving!
@@garykendall1376 Same here; '10 Grand Caravan. I was informed: if your butt shakes, rear. If your hands shake, front. Determined it was front, and wow, so much detail in the construction of the rotor (vs. the marketing spew), and the price difference between the 4 auto parts stores. Had them shipped, and then found that in transit, they were bounced off the concrete more than once. Amazing learning experience even before they went on the axle.
@@garykendall1376 to use the principle "if it's not broke, don't fix it" you can put new pads on and test drive. If there are vibrations, THEN it's time to check the rotors more thoroughly.
It's been my recent experience in the past maybe 20 years with imported products that its much better to never turn a rotor or drum. Once you do, there's less metal overall and warpage is more prone to occur when they are "shaved" of their original bulk. Found this out many times by have rotors turned and decided that since the price of rotors are relatively inexpensive, $40 each or so, the brake job is worth it in the end and you are good for another 50,000 miles maybe. It's also advisable to always use the new hardware that comes with the pads and as Scotty did, use the brake grease to lube the piston and pad pressure points as well as the hardware slides/pins to keep down the noise and promote smooth actions.
Correct....the amount of weight ( mass) of the brake rotor is less after it's turned...and the "heat-sin"k it then has is less...therefore, even more prone to warp later than before.....
that's exactly how I do the brakes aswell I found using a little copper grease on the hub makes the brake rotors come off a lot easier when you do the job again in future
So you didn’t wanna tell us, the locker was in the glove box after looking all over the back 😂😂😂
Always the 2nd place to look! 😆
Said it before and will say it again. LOVE your videos as you say everything, I tell “friends?” Who bring their cars over to my garage for repair. You’re the greatest!❤
Scotty love your work for years, but this case you missed putting anti-seize on the bolts and the rotors where rotor rides on the hub for the next time the car needs brakes done!
Always good to put a dial gauge on the discs (rotors as they say in USA) to ensure they are running true or no "run out". Most garages dont bother as it takes an extra 15 mins but if your doing a proper job at home its well recommended
Thanks Scotty. I bought Akebono pads and NAPA premium rotors from NAPA for my RAV 4 Perfect match. Easy installation.
Just be sure to open the tap of the brake fluid container before you push the caliper pistons back with the big wrench or you might just destroy your brake fluid pipes.
2 omissions :
1:You didn't show cleaning the hub face thoroughly.
2: When pushing pistons back in crack the bleed nipple open.
You don't want to push old stale fluid back up the lines.
We always bleed the brakes during a pad change.
Keeps everything fresh and prevents the bleed nipples seizing when you come to service it next time ⚠️
Didnt check and re-grease the pins, no grease on tab ears, didnt use warm soap water to clean rotors. Brake cleaner is great for oils, not so much for leftover shavings from machining process. Always open bleeders to push pads back in. Trash settles in the calipers and doesnt need pressed back into the system. VIdeos like these just go to show you can get away with mediocre work and still be considered "good". Luckily these vehicles arent finicky.
Nice, using those pliers. I've been using c-clamps, just don't go beyond gudentight 😂. Always learning something new on every single episode, I appreciate your youtube channel, Boss Scotty 💯% 👍🏼
Do not forget to press the brake pedal several times to set the calipers before you drive off. Otherwise your in for a hell of a scare on your first braking encounter!!
I always keep My locker in the center console, when tire guys asked I told them where it was.
Any time I worked on someone else's car that's the first place I check, then the glove box then the spare tire area in the trunk.
Bought a car once with wheel locks but no key, no problem, took it to discount tire and they removed them and sold Me a new set for $50.
I need to replace the front pads on my wifes Honda. Thanks for this very practical and well edited demonstration.
Obviously not in the rust belt. Up here in MA , you’re lucky to get a vehicle to last 10 years, never mind the brakes.
Fluid Film
NEVER collapse a caliper piston with a pair of channelocks (pump pliers) I had a mechanic at Firestone do that, damage a caliper and between the mechanic and service manager I had to eat rotor and pads.700.00 later (the truck was immobilized so I was stuck) the truck rolled out of there. Had been a long time Firestone customer at another location where the service writer there was an honest guy. Unfortunately where I went for this job evidently was not. I told those crooks if you get this truck going I will never set foot in a Firestone again. Been good for my word for 18 years. Never
I used to do my own brakes too but travel too much now and have found 2 places, one for trouble codes, the other for tires and lube and use them exclusively. Only way I'd pull into a Firestone or other corp store now is to be breaking down as I approached the entrance.
I used a big "C" clamp back in the day to collapse the caliper piston. Catching it on the side like Scotty did sends chills up my spine. For a 50+ year mechanic very vocal and opinionated as he is that is a rookie mistake and could cost the owner 100's of dollars shortly down the road. I know my truck locked up the caliper (working fine before tampered with) within about 2 miles from the ill fated Firestone visit.
Years alone do not equate to skill. I train people how to work on vehicular AC systems. Really amazing how many people are misinformed and by the alleged "experts" in our industry.
Scotty is a good guy, but when you fail to lube or anti seize critical parts, collapse the caliper with a pair of gonzo pump pliers and so forth it makes me question where Scotty was trained and what kind of training he did get?
Yep , use a C clamp was just cringing watching him use channel lock’s.
If the caliper and fluid are good, I pop the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and then I shove a large screw driver in between the caliper and rotor and pry on the caliper until the piston is all the way in. Then take off the caliper.
@@Joe-em3iw This!! I try to compress the piston using the bad pad as a platform to press against. If I can't do it with my big ole screwdriver lever, then I pull out the c-clamp.
Love your common sense, economical approach to car repair. I learned about rotors a long time ago. They always try to get you turn them which results in them being thinner and warping when they get hot making your brakes worse, requiring more brake work.
It's a scam.
When ever you use the pliers to push back the caliper piston PLEASE ALWAYS unscrew the cap of the brake fluid reservoir first!! The back pressure of pushing back the caliper piston can cause a crack to the fluid reservoir.
LOL WHAT!!!! No it won't 🤦🏽♂️🙄
Yes it can... I had it happened to me after many brake changes and i found a crack. I was losing brake fluid. Been working on cars for 40 years. You learn many things. Sorry this makes you laugh but its reality.
@@ptaka69 Noted. Thanks sir.
Ahh.... no...the fluid reservoir is vented.....
@@ptaka69 ...it wasn't caused by the reason you give.....
When I do brakes I do all new pads and rotors all the way around. Don’t have to worry about new pads mismatching with a small warp in the rotor. For the money to me it’s worth it. But Scotty is more frugal than I am.
on all new cheap rotors I put on I do a final slow speed turn on each rotor, this makes a world of difference getting miles out of rotors & pads. Never had to do this for old drums
Careful squeezing the piston back in. If it’s not nice and straight or if the pliers cause it to tilt it will jam.
Well second time i saw you do brakes and you did not lube the slide pins that the calipers bolt to. That's the main part that should be lubed to ensure the caliper slides back and forth. Brake rotors have a min and max thickness. If they are close or under the min thickness shops have to sell new ones due to liability / legal issues. If they are under the min thickness they will not dissipate heat and cause premature pad ware.
I'm not a mechanic, and I'm not about to retire, but I can share a pro tip anyway: measure the old pads and check BEFORE ordering new pads - size problem solved before it, as for Scott, became a problem 😁
Scotty needs to put the 'Brakes' on before he blows a gasket 😂
He’s relying on you/ us to round out the details, otherwise vid is too long.
I must have missed the big reveal. Anyway, good luck for your retirement. Thanks for so many informative videos.
That if you tap the brake pedal 42 times in 30 seconds a little key falls into the ashtray and you can unlock an extra 45 horsepower and get 39 mpg.
I wouldn't recommend using the impact on the locker lug.
Over-tightening lug nuts is a common scam to warp customers' rotors and make more work for the shops a few months later. If your car is worked on for any reason, not just tire/wheel related, check the lug nuts.
You have no idea what you're talking about. You can tighten the lugs as much as you possibly could, short of snapping the studs, and it would have zero negative impact on the rotor. And by all means, there is absolutely no possibility of warping your rotors from over-tightening the lugs! Ridiculous 😂
Scotty
Im very surprised you were relying on a hydraulic jack rather than jack stands !!
My 2005 Camry XLE has larger rotors than other models of the same year. Autozone got mine wrong, too. Their parts computer isn't the best.😊😊😊
Just did my friends front and back brakes pads 2016 Subaru east job!
Happy Father's day to the man who-for many of us, became a surrogate father who taught us everything we ever needed to know about fixing and maintaining our vehicles, Scotty Kilmer! 🍻
People rarely steal just the rims anymore so better yet, just get rid of the locks.
Have to pump the brakes before starting the car.............put a big sign on your steering wheel so you don't forget.
Don't worry, you'll remember at that first stop light.
I had my front brakes done 2 yrs ago. At the garage where i took my car to have the pads put on. The guy never said we can't do the job cause your front rotars are bad. No rotors were fine, brake pads on, everything is good. The back brakes are fine too. They don't need replacenents. Rotor are not in bad shape. Other places won't do your brakes unless you buy new rotors. Stay away from these places.
Those old rotors looked fine to me. What about the calipers?? How many miles on car? The calipers might have needed work.
Scotty you’re a National Treasure. If you do retire, I wish you all the best and hope you enjoy your retirement. Thank you for educating us and I’m glad we have your Videos to refer too.
My 2004 Thunderbird with 44,000 miles has original pads and rotors, decided I'm going to change them all myself. North Texas car, hopeful little or no rust will be found.
Auto Zone parts just low-end. They sorta fit but something always seems off compared to OEM. Made that mistake a few times. Shame on me really.
Even mildly rusty rotors are ok if they aren’t warped. There are ways to get most of the rust off without replacing the rotor. And regarding the rear brakes they are a lot less important because the front ones do all the work. The emegency brake isn’t the rear brake pad. It’s often a drum brake inside the rear hub assembly.
Scotty, I learn many things from your videos ❤😊
Do not use multi pliers to push in your piston,use a tool that’s fits inside the piston so you don’t damage the outer edge or destroy the rubber that the piston sits inside of.
Clean grease and oil off the braking surfaces, brake pads should be degreased if you get greasy finger prints on them and rotors because they come coated with oil. This will prevent squeaking when you stop.
I've done brakes for over 35 years on many different types of vehicles and it is basically the same on pretty much everything. American, Japanese, European it's all about the same. The types of bolts are the main thing that varies. Some are regular bolts while others are allen head or torx- star head. Get a good quality torx or allen head attachment with perfect fit for your ratchet so you don't strip it, because that is a disaster when it happens.
Use jack stands while also leaving the jack under the car for safety and chock the wheels so it doesn't roll.
Why did you need to change the routers there's nothing wrong with them
The customer arrived with them and wanted them swapped out.
I doubt Scotty would have otherwise.
Since the pads came from different places, I would have checked to make sure they're the same material. Or even just bought the same pads from O'Reillys to keep them matchy-matchy. Probably wouldn't matter too much on a RAV4, but still something I would do.
Lisle makes a good caliper piston pusher tool that is inexpensive.
Shout out to step-father's who stepped up where real father's failed. Been showing my step-son car / motorcycle stuff since he was 6.
Amen brother 🎉
You are the real father
Scotty, do you ever use anti-seize on the hub or between the rotor and the wheel to prevent that problem of it all being rusted-on?
idk just got pads and rotors from az 2day ago and were fine ..must be the key tapper
We have the same problem but with orielly's over here, i live in spokane WA if you go there for a part you may get the right part you may not its 50/50, tell em what you want & they look up the part number on their computer go in the back where im pretty sure they just toss a coin to determine whether to give you the right part or not, a trip to orielly's here means you may as well double your fuel cost & trip time, its literaly 50/50 every time.
What about greasing the rods?
With silicone grease if going through rubber. Petroleum grease will lock solid in a few strokes!
@@solarsynapse that's why you use copper based grease for brake rods
@@generallee3284 As long as it is not petroleum if they go through synthetic rubber. They will jam and need to be pressed out.
The wrong brakes was probably the old case of "submodel doesn't matter" when indeed it did.
Master Craftsman , you make it look easy Scotty, well done.
As a long time toyota tech we had a master set of wheel lock sockets. The tool was always somewhere besides the tool room so we would yell "We Locks!!!" And whoever had them would yell " I've got we locks!!!"
You've left the save rotor for 20yrs? Do you have them turned? How do I know if I need to do either? That's the opposite of everything I hear on RUclips.
If your brakes "shake" when you brake, it usually is a symptom that the rotors are warped or uneven.
Scotty, my tip: buy a wood hand screw clamp to squeeze those brake calibers back into their housing. Wood isn't going to scar the metal and you can get sufficient pressure from the clamp.
I really like the way you suggest tools and maintenance products that you, (the professional), use! I worked on electronics for years and I learned a lot from other Tec's but there's been many times I've blown good money on tools and repair products that II just had to eat!
Should clean hub and rotor mating surfaces lots of debris on there
correct..those rotors will pulsate for sure without removing the rust on the hub
Do not use an impact on a wheel lock only use breaker bar impacts strip out lug bolts and lugs very easy I work in a tire shop never use an impact!
Nice video, as usual. Torque limiting extensions & an impact make for a quicker job.
Ed c
To be honest the front rotors looked pretty good as well.
For sure.
Yes but usually the inside/other side of the rotor rusts faster than the outside
I used to have locking lugnuts on one of my cars. A rookie mechanic destroyed the key on the first wheel by using an impact to break it loose. Maybe he had the air impact on tighten at first, I don't know. I ended up with four sets of brand new lugnuts.
Did you check the slide pins???
looks like the way I do it always replace the pads with the rotor's, fun fact, back in the days of drums to discs mid 70s if your breaks squealed it meant you were cool, and your car had discs up front at the least
Caliper slides off...with a hammer and prybar. Rotor comes off....with a cutting torch...maybe. Rust is better than welding.
Scotty still has it.
I have never had an issue with rims. Then again, I don't buy fancy rims and honestly, they tend to get beaten up after a while (I don't care to be honest because it's just a car). If it was a car for "show" like a Mustang, then I might have daily driving rims and then special rims just for show. But on my daily drivers I would just as well have steel rims to be honest (with wheel covers) but I just have the basic factory Toyota alloys. Nothing special. Never locked my wheels. Too much of a hassle.
As a reminder, some rotors are held on by screws or small bolts (such as some Hondas) so make sure they aren't held on by something before you start tapping or trying to pound the rotors off. I think this practice is getting to be less and less common, but was back in the late 90's. Some also have pilot holes that you can use to thread a bolt if the rotor gets stuck on the hub which is handy.
Now, I believe on some cars, you are supposed to lube the caliper slides/pins if the vehicle has them (some HOndas have them, I don't know about this vehicle but it is something I found on my old HOnda back in the day, the hard way when I forgot to do it -- they just were stiff and didn't release like they were supposed to, so I had to take them apart and lube the slides). Good to probably just check the instructions to see if the brakes have these slides or not. Not all vehicles use them.
although don't most vehicles that have rear disc brakes use a drum in brake system for the parking brake, where it has a mini drum under neat the disc that is used for the parking brake? I guess it depends on the model of vehicle....
When you pressed the piston back, you didn’t mention the overflow in the master cylinder!!! Gpx
Those wheel lockers use to be on my car when i bought it and someone used the key with an impact and broke it and i had to hammer old sockets on it to remove it. I will never use those again because it was a pain to get them off without the key.
"It's not that hard." Nothing's hard if you know what you're doing!
Or when someone else does it!
2 months ago i installed a set of 4 slotted/drilled/vented discs with ceramic carbon fiber pads in my 10th gen king ranch. For the whole roto/hub+pads set i paid $200. My truck has never stopped better.
Can’t believe my Taurus SHO still has the original brakes pads at 98.5k! Ft at 4mm, rear at 2mm. 😮
The RAV4 limited has larger rotors up front than the LE. You always have to tell the parts guy which version you have and make sure he pulled the right parts before you leave the store. The front diameter is either 275mm or 297mm.