It was a pleasure watching this. No music and no chatter. Great use of illustrations! I picked up a thick piece of Formica counter top for free and used it for the front table.
I agree. As versatile the radial arm saw is, it is often misunderstood and underutilized in todays workshops. A perception that is propagated by people who do not know how to properly adjust and use them.
Glad it was helpful. Consider joining the 'DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum'--lots of good information available on that site and a great place to find answers to any questions you might have about your saw.
I restored an old RAS and there was no top surface. I had to build a new one from scratch. When it came to the table, I couldn't understand how it worked just from the manual. This is valuable information. I'm going to redesign my whole table and fences! Thanks! PS: when disengaging the head to turn it sideways, I noticed you manually pull the plunger pin. If you pull the locking lever all the way, it pulls the pin up. One lever, 2 actions: genius design.
Thank you. I’m glad the video was useful. Check out Part 2 also-it provides some more detail on table construction. I also highly recommend ordering the book “How to master the radial arm saw” by Wally Kunkel. The information provided is worth the price!
well done, only complaint is the fast transition of the type.....yes, I can pause, but on some platforms like a phone it is difficult to pause. very clear images ......cheers
Ken Zaleski Thanks. Glad it helped. I have many radial arm saw-centric videos you might like. if you’re new to the RAS, consider getting a copy of the book by Wally Kunkel. It has many very useful tips and information that will help you get the most out of your saw.
I just bought a RAS this video was great and I just ordered Mr Sawdust book so between this video and the book I should be able to make the perfect table
I have this same saw I picked up at a yard sale about a year ago. It has no table or fence so I need to build one. The saw itself works great! Nothing like older tools that just keep working.
Excellent. I do highly recommend buying a copy of Wally Kunkel’s book, How to Master the Radial Arm Saw. It will really help you learn how to set it up and use it properly. Many useful tips that make it a must read.
@@brianweekley5700 Newb question. Are the thumb screws really secure enough. I have visions of the fence and rear platform folding and my work piece shifting with the force of the blade.
Mike Conners Plenty strong enough. Almost all radial arm saws use thumb screws or wedges to hold the boards tight. What kind of saw and model did you get?
Mike Conners You’ll discover the heavier, cast iron models are more desirable, but your DeWalt/B&D 7740 will get you started and is very useable. It’s not that different from the T1812 that I showed in this video (same Frame 350 motor).
Thank you so much for posting this Brian. I aquired a RAS for free and it has the lockdown table base but the original table pieces were replaced with just a piece of plywood even without a fence. I found the instructions I had were not detailed enough to figure out how to build the tables and fence. I was going to ask my 3 fingered carpenter friend but I though...uhmmm maybe not :)
Thanks, one of the best explanations of the system. There are so many videos with poor and even sometimes dangerous info that it is important to get the better ones to receive more traffic. Not sure how search engines list hits, but if there is a way to improve your placing I would consider it a boon to safety if you could. Thanks, again.
I love your radial arm saw vids. Its nice to see someone give these saws the respect they deserve. Can you make a vid showing cutting 4x8 sheet of plywood? That would be awesome.
Thanks so much. Except for construction purposes, I try to avoid dealing with whole sheets of plywood whenever possible. I fully take advantage of the home center to partially break down/rip plywood sheets for smaller projects. Not 4 feet wide, but in following video at 5 min:5 sec, I'm ripping 8 foot long plywood using only roller stands: ruclips.net/video/BDPaa5dwR3E/видео.html. In this next video at 1 min:10 sec, I'm ripping shorter, but wider plywood using my extra long back table/fence: ruclips.net/video/KOzRB30gxpE/видео.html. I have another saw in the process of restoration. When that saw is complete, I'll be able to attach my auxiliary extension tables too.
you mean in part 2? or some other video? I saw that long rip with the 8 footer but it was not too wide. And what if you want to take just an inch off a wide 8' plywood piece? Is it ok to take the inch from the side that is up against the fence?
I included some links to some other videos in my previous reply. I don't have any examples of cutting a full 4x8 sheet, but I tried to provide examples of cutting both long and wide sheets. There's no way to remove 1 inch from the outer edge of a 4 foot sheet. Yes, you would have to take it off from the side against the fence. This is why the rip capacity between outer edge of table and the fence located in the full rear position (behind back tables) only needs to be 24-25 inches to cover any width you would need to cut in a 4 foot wide piece of plywood.
Ok so you can take an inch off a 4x8 by taking it off from the fence side right? And that is safe to do right? Thanks. and I will check out the links. I have finally totally stripped and restored my 1962 Craftsman accra arm and its going back together now and a table will need to be made. Im just glad I have your vids as a reference. They are great and I will be building a table very soon.
If you make a good straight cut, the piece to the left of the blade should be just as good as the piece to the right of the blade. If I was using my table saw to remove 1 inch from a 48 inch wide piece of plywood, I would have the same problem. I can't move the fence on my table saw that far to the right of the blade. In reality, I don't want to handle full sheets on a table saw or RAS. Full sheets are unwieldy on any saw without sufficient outfeed tables and support. If you really need to just remove 1 inch from the length of a full sheet of plywood, I would probably opt to use a straight edge and circular saw or track saw instead. Sometimes, it's just easier to move a tool through the wood than the wood through the tool. BTW, I strongly recommend the book noted in the video description (How to Master the Radial Arm Saw, by Wally Kunkle)--worth every penny. Good luck on your saw restoration.
Being able to rip a half sheet of plywood is about as wide as you need (although I prefer to break it down first with a circular saw, if possible to make it easier to handle). If you watch my video "Improving a Portable Planer (minimize snipe)" at 1:10, you'll see an example of ripping plywood using the extra long back table and fence and some roller stands.
Thanks. Are you referring to the thumbscrews that hold the fence and tables together? If your saw is missing the clamps, some people use horizontal toggle clamps as an alternative. There’s a video on RUclips titled “1956 DeWalt MBF” that shows an example using toggle clamps.
Great video- my Dad is retired & wants to get back into woodwork. He wants to recalibrate his saw- who can he go to to get this professionally done? A handyman? A carpenter?
I'm thinking MDO would make a good table base material. (If you aren't familiar with it, the edge of MDO looks a bit like Baltic Birch, but it's constructed with harder woods like Fir. The surface(s) have a very smooth mat "Kraft" finish that appears a bit like tissue paper glued on. Smooth as a Formica table top. Used by sign painters and as concrete construction forms where architecturally smooth walls are required.)
Yes, I'm sure that would be a good material to make a table. Flatness of the table is most important (which is why the steel bars are epoxied in to prevent warping). If you search for "Mr. Sawdust table", you will find several good examples. I also highly recommend buying the book "How to master the radial arm saw". It's a superb reference for technique and safety.
Thank you! BTW, I see you are a photographer and still do darkroom work. Good for you. In the past, I spent many hours developing film and prints. It’s a lost art.
@@brianweekley5700 yep! although, I've been on a little bit of a hiatus from the darkroom for the past year, been focused on learning more about woodworking. I agree - in some ways it has some crossover to the art of fine woodworking.
Brian - do you have a template, or measurements, for the fence cutouts for the shaper guard and shaper head? I'm going through a full rebuild of an MBF I bought from facebook, which included a shaper head, and a boatload of cutting knives, but no shaper guard - it did, however, have a shaping and jointing fence setup, with toolcraft adjustable depth mechanism, which i may use when building my shaper head and guard fitting fence.
I don’t have a template. However, pretty easy to figure out. Just lower the shaper guard down to the fence and mark. Good luck on your MBF rebuild. Sounds like you got some nice accessories.
On the sacrificial top of your table there appears to be a uniform "cup" where the blade is positioned for ripping. Will you explain what this is and how you created it?
You are referring to the rip trough. First, make sure your saw and table are properly calibrated/leveled (I have a separate video that shows how to setup the saw). Remove the fence, rotate the blade to the rip position, lower the blade about 1/8" into the table, and pull the carriage across the table to create the trough. The trough just make it easier to move the blade back and forth when setting/adjusting the rip width.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks for your explanation. I have an unlimited supply of 1/8 inch sacrificial panels for the main table. These work well for 90-degree crosscuts and 45's, but the rip cuts not so well. I am making a rip jig to fit over the main table. Your trough idea makes the jig look nice-instead of random cuts in the face of the sacrificial panel. I believe it will help in keeping the main table clean (and safer) as well.
@@kellyperry7745 I don't see a need for a separate rip jig. A sacrificial top can last a very long time. Some of mine are years old. One trick is to fill the kerfs with Bondo to refresh the top without having to replace it. I only rip, crosscut, and 45 miter into my sacrificial top. If there are any other angles other than 45, I temporarily lay another piece of 1/8" MDF on the table. This keeps my mounted sacrificial top looking good with only the three paths showing (90, 45, and rip trough).
@@brianweekley5700 My jig will be used to cut pre-sanded lengths of wood for end grain cutting boards. I am using extruded aluminum for the frame which will be clamped in place where the regular fence would be. On the opposing side will be an adjustable fence with indexed location holes 1 1/8 inch apart for cutting 1-inch-thick strips and 1 5/8 indexed location holes for cutting 1.5-inch strips. The outer fence is secured to the jig surface by 3/8" bolts/star knobs on each end. Cutting the strips this way ensure they are all uniform in size. I can also use the same jig to crosscut the strips after gluing. My goal is to reduce the time and expense spent on sanding the cutting boards. Thanks again for your help.
You have earned a like and a subscribe my friend! My RAS Owner's manual and 'Newest ways to expert woodworking book somehow did not explain what i feel to be basic knowledge. Maybe I'm missing some pages. Thank you for this wonderful information!
How do you ensure the entire table is level/planar with the saw depth, for instance when the arbor is facing downward and you are using a router, so that it is a uniform depth all of the way across?
I use 3/4” thick wood to make my fences. The back table sizes will depend on your saw. If you properly mount the front table (blade against fence when in in-rip and pointer at zero), you will be able to determine the space available for the back tables (distance from back of fence to column/thumb screws). In my smaller saw I use 1-1/2” and 5-1/2” back tables. For my larger saw, I use 2” and 6” back tables).
Erik Salmon - LifeHackerTV As much as I would like to do some videos, my RAS is disassembled and the parts are sitting on a shelf - for a little while longer yet. I had to remove all of the RAS bench shown in my other post, to allow for the installation of a large metal lathe. it will eventually be reinstated in a new environment. I've taken over the old double garage (as my woodworking workshop) after building a new double garage in front of the old one. The floor space is predominantly occupied by a large panel saw.
Brian, Love that saw...have the same one...how about doing a video on your dust box setup and the way you incorporate your vac system into the RAS setup. a satisfactory and efficient system for mine has always seemed to evade me.
Thanks for your comment. Dust collection on the RAS is certainly a challenging problem. Sorry to disappoint you, but there's not much to my dust collection system. I have a wooden box attached to the back of the saw that just catches sawdust during cross-cuts. It doesn't work great, but it's better than nothing. For ripping, I simply connect a shop vac hose to the blade guard outlet. If you haven't seen this, here's an intriguing setup for crosscut dust collection: ruclips.net/video/7N0zHs7soqA/видео.html
Where can I find the actual materials list and dimensions for a top similar to this? Does that exist? I have a Delta 10" (that has 14" of travel) RAS that I've recently purchased and have fallen in love with.
I don’t have a Delta, but you can basically make the table any size you want. I make my tables 37” wide and about 16” deep. Don’t make it too deep, or it’s hard to reach the column crank. I make my tables from two layers of 3/4” plywood and use 1/8” x 3/4” x 36” steel bars. I highly recommend buying the book “How to master the radial arm saw” by Wally Kunkel. It provides the detail on how to make this table, as well as other very useful information on use and safety.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, after I watched and researched some more, I did end up ordering the book. Thank you for responding so quickly. I will be picking up some plywood and steel this afternoon!
FYI anyone watching. When I bought my DeWalt DW8101 RAS new about 30 years ago it came with a left side extension which allows left hand mitres to be cut using the column detent. In the next little while I plan on giving it a birthday which is why I'm looking at Radial Arm videos. I haven't made up my mind whether to insert T Tracks for the fence etc in the bench top or stick with the standard arrangement. I will replace the legs with a cabinet, floor space is always valuable. My top is 1500 long, tossing up whether to expand to 1800. I can cross cut almost 600 with a bit of jiggery pokery maybe I'll get the full 600 at less than 20 thick. I have fairly simple dust collection after some trial and error, it isn't too bad but I will revisit that topic too. I think that can also improve the guarding. The Radial Arm Saw is less dusty than my table saw.
@@brianweekley5700 it's old but pretty handy & the price was a steal. The accessory end will drive shaper cutters up to 1" thick. It's a "live arm" saw that rides on 8 ball bearings. Google Comet saws to check it out. 😉👍
I really like this style of videos! This is what I call perfect teaching! Thank you very much for sharing. What is the model of this RAS that appears in the scenes?
Thanks! Much appreciated. That saw was my DeWalt “Builders 10”. Unlike most DeWalt radial arm saws, this one has an under table elevation crank. I gave this saw to a friend and substituted it for a better, cast iron model (1030).
@@brianweekley5700 Very cool! Yesterday I watched part 2 of this video, and I can say that my enthusiasm for this type of machine is only increasing. I recently bought an 8101, and it hasn't arrived at the shop yet... Did I make a good purchase?! It seems to be in good condition... Thank you for the videos you've been making, they're like reading excerpts from books and manuals on the subject. See you soon!
Thanks. Sorry, I’m not familiar with the 8101. I believe that is a European model-possibly made in Italy? They are different than the American built DeWalts, but should serve you well.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, it is one of the models made in Italy by DeWalt... I'm not sure, but it was made in the late 80s or early 90s... I've just entered the RAS universe, even though I've liked them for a long time... Who knows, maybe in the future I'll be lucky enough to get a rarity from the 60s. Let's see!
@@rraffaell73 Consider joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. Lots of good information there and a great place to ask questions or learn about all things RAS related.
How did you accurately align the new tables to the arm of the saw? in other words, the table and fence need to be at 90.0 degrees to the saw arm. how did you achieve this? I bought the book but I did not see how the alignment is accomplished.
Thanks for the question. First, I mount the table as square as I can to the base. I don't know what kind of saw you have, but there should be adjustment screws near the arm lock that will let you further calibrate the arm/blade to be exactly 90 degrees to the fence. On the DeWalt saws, there are set screws that must be loosened first and then adjustable pivot screws that can be used to set the arm angle. If you have Mr. Kunkle's book, it's described on pages 43-44.
The DeWalt lathe accessory is pretty rare. It’s a novelty, but I wouldn’t recommend one since it has several disadvantages. For one, it runs at higher speeds than typicality used for wood turning. You also can’t attach any chucks to the headstock. You’d be much better off just buying an old wood lathe. I found an old one on Craigslist for $30 and have a short video on the restoration.
If you're new to the RAS, this is a highly recommended book that explains how to make a table, saw adjustment, and many useful techniques: www.mrsawdust.com
Thanks, Brain. I have been watching all the videos and reading as much as I can, then I go out to the saw with the power off and see how everything works. I have done some adjustments and cleaning to make sure it's safe. I will definitely take a look at this book as well. I hope that more people do videos on these RAS's so that knowledge is passed on.
Thanks for the question. The table sizes will depend on your saw. The fence location is set as shown in the video. For my consumer-sized DeWalt saws, I make my tables 37" wide (to accept 36" wide steel bars for reinforcement). For the back tables, I split the space available behind the fence approximately (1:3). For the main table, I generally make them about 16-17" deep.
Hi Brian, thanks for the video. I'm just about to build my table.. ...and a question came up: how did you determine the widths of the 2 back tables? Thanks in advance AB
Depends on the saw,. Determine the amount of space you have available between the back of the fence and the clamps/column. For example if it’s 7 inches, you might make them 1.5 and 5.5. If it’s 8”, I’d make them 2 and 6. The small (in front of the fence) piece gives you a little more cross cut capacity for 1x wood. Either in front of the fence gives you more rip capacity. Hope that helps.
That extra long fence for ripping is a little problematic. When using a table saw for ripping the fence is adjusted to end just past the cutting edge, so the wood is only constrained at the cut. This is a safety measure to allow the wood to spring away from the blade, it it needs to, and not catch on the rear rising teeth and cause a kickback. I would imagine setting the fence to finish just a centimetre or two after the cutting edge when in or out ripping on a radial arm saw would be the thing to do. An old sawyer told me once 'you are only interested in the dimension between the fence and cutting edge', and he used to 'spring' long stuff in towards the fence at the saw-blade even though the part yet to be cut may have been away from the fence.
Thanks for the comment and you bring up a good point that is often discussed. A few comments: On a RAS, the fence naturally extends an equal distance on both sides of the blade (since the blade is centered on the table when rotated to the rip position). Unlike a table saw, the (rear) of the blade spins down pushing the wood towards the table instead of lifting the rear end up on a TS. A straight, jointed edge should always face the fence. Under that condition, you normally wouldn't have kickback using a longer fence. However, I agree that when cutting reaction wood, it's possible for the kerf to closeup behind the blade and pinch/bind the blade. Unfortunately, most radial arm saws are not equipped with a splitter to prevent that situation from happening. Therefore, depending on the wood, there might be times when a shorter fence is preferred, but that alone generally doesn't eliminate the potential for pinching (without a splitter). However, I do find the extra long fence is very useful for cutting large panels (stable sheet goods)--much easier than on my table saw because it provides much better support along the cut. The bottom line is to always work safely (use the anti-kickback devices), think about what may go wrong, listen to the sound of the motor, keep your hands and body out of the line of fire, etc...
It's going to depend on your saw. Measure how much room is available between the back of the fence and your clamps/thumbscrews. You should have two back tables (one narrow and one wide). On my MBF, the back tables are 1-3/4" and 5-1/2". On my larger 1030, the back tables are 2" and 6".
@@brianweekley5700 Many thanks. I have a 7770 250 Power Station. Between your channel, Mr. Sawdust, and R.J. de Cristoforo, I find there are very few tasks I can't do on my RAS.
Big pro-tip, Don't use a RAS for cutting a bunch of different angle, try to use jigs and stuff, instead of constantly moving and cutting new holes in your fence and table. I made that mistake and now I need to replace my table and fences etc.
Thanks for the comment. When cutting angles other than 90 or 45 degrees, I always lay a scrap piece of 1/4 inch MDF down to avoid extra kerfs in my table. For the fence, check out my “zero clearance fence for the radial arm saw” video. This also eliminates extra kerfs in the fence.
I never use In rip. The carriage is in closer and far more study and I want to see the blade. Best thing about a Radial. It always tells you to beware ,and not like a table saw that you can't much and take your fingers off holding a warped board down . I've heard that story too many times .
It’s nice the RAS allows multiple ripping options (in and out rip). Both work well. Personally, I prefer in rip most of the time. Being right handed, it’s more comfortable for me to rip from that side. Also, the on/off switch on my saws is located on the right side of the arm. Edge work can only be done in the in rip configuration.
@@brianweekley5700 Very good points👍👍. I don't like having to reach for the on/ off switch on mine. I'll have to think that through what you said . I have an industrial drill press and it has an off switch pedal. I might see if I can wire mine to shut down. Again a very good point about the switch . 👍👍😎
@@brianweekley5700 Some Radials have a blade break to stop the spin after the cut. Mine doesn't,but "Someone" I know uses a board to push against the side of the blade to stop the coast 🙄. I'm sure that's not in my operational manual . I mean not listed in my friends operational manual ❗ 😏
@@FantomWireBrian Eek! A blade that takes a long time to spin down is typically a sign that the motor bearings on these old saws need to be replaced (the grease dries up and there's little friction to stop the blade). New bearings typically stop much faster, but having a blade brake is a bonus.
@@FantomWireBrian Most people I know use in-rip as the preferred setup. Besides, you can't always move the blade all the way to the fence when in out-rip. Check out this excellent demo by a member of our DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum... ruclips.net/video/vyZ0RYl27jU/видео.html
I just picked up the same exact radial arm saw yesterday. Not sure what I did but it doesn't start. I put a multimeter on the switch and it looked like it has power going through when I hit the green. Not sure what to do next to troubleshoot. plz help. thanks
I suggest joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". There are a lot of members that could probably help you troubleshoot. forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher?redirCnt=1
I used brass screws to hold down the sacrificial top to the table shown in this video. However, now I just use a nail gun with 18 gauge, 5/8 inch long nails to hold it down. This is much easier than using screws and is shown in the second video--Part 2. ruclips.net/video/_e5yQC_i7mI/видео.html
Thanks for the question. The size of the tables really depends on the brand/model of the saw. For a typical 10 inch saw, I generally make the “main table” 37 inches wide and deep enough so the blade remains over the table when the saw is moved to the maximum “Out-rip” position (about 17 inches for the saw shown in this video). Once the “main table” is mounted in place, you can calculate the distance available for the fence and “back tables” (distance remaining between the main table and the column or clamping system). For this saw, I use a 3/4 inch thick fence with 2 inch and 6 inch “back tables”.
You make a new table for your radial arm saw. Checkout the next video “Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2)”. Another one of my videos shows a better example of the table glue-up process: “Router Table for B&D Workmate”.
I don't think you mentioned the width of your back table pieces. Looks like 2" and 6". Probably could be different, and maybe should be with a different model of saw, but those look like good widths for anyone with your model of RAS.
It really depends on the saw and the space left between the fence and column. On this saw, they are indeed 2" and 6". On my smaller MBF, they are 1.5" and 5.5".
@@brianweekley5700 Brilliant video Brian. New to the RAS world and this fence/2 rear spacers info is exactly what I needed. I'll be watching all your videos before I buy more wood to replace the (VERY improperly spaced and sized) worn out base and fence on the saw I bought.
Backside of the blade? When cross-cutting, you pull the blade towards you. Yes, it is important to use a correct blade to minimize a “climb cut”, but that is not dangerous and easily controlled.
This is brilliant! I'm new to the RAS world and need to replace the base, fence(s) and properly calibrate the saw. I'll be adding your idea before I do anything. Thanks for posting this.
@@Maxxis1941 sorry, no,I don't have a video. I can't make one for you, as my RAS is in pieces at the moment after moving it from it's original location (in a different workshop). It is simple enough to use, I think you'll manage ok with your build 😉
It was a pleasure watching this. No music and no chatter. Great use of illustrations! I picked up a thick piece of Formica counter top for free and used it for the front table.
Thank you. There are many radial arm saw related videos on my channel that you may find useful.
One of the best videos out there, wish more RUclips were of this quality. Thanks!
Thank you. Much appreciated!
Thanks for showing the versatility of the RAS. so many people have given up on this type saw for some misunderstandings of the dangers.
I agree. As versatile the radial arm saw is, it is often misunderstood and underutilized in todays workshops. A perception that is propagated by people who do not know how to properly adjust and use them.
Glad it was helpful. Consider joining the 'DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum'--lots of good information available on that site and a great place to find answers to any questions you might have about your saw.
I restored an old RAS and there was no top surface. I had to build a new one from scratch. When it came to the table, I couldn't understand how it worked just from the manual. This is valuable information. I'm going to redesign my whole table and fences! Thanks!
PS: when disengaging the head to turn it sideways, I noticed you manually pull the plunger pin. If you pull the locking lever all the way, it pulls the pin up. One lever, 2 actions: genius design.
Thank you. I’m glad the video was useful. Check out Part 2 also-it provides some more detail on table construction. I also highly recommend ordering the book “How to master the radial arm saw” by Wally Kunkel. The information provided is worth the price!
I just bought a RAS and this video answered so many of my questions. Thank YOU!
Glad it was useful. Many of my other videos show other useful tips and examples of the RAS in use. It's one of the most versatile tools in my shop.
well done, only complaint is the fast transition of the type.....yes, I can pause, but on some platforms like a phone it is difficult to pause. very clear images ......cheers
Thanks for the feedback. I've been narrating more recent videos instead of using the text.
Thanks for posting. I just picked up a delta 33-267 10" that needs the whole table. Now I now how to figure out what size to make my front table!!
Ken Zaleski Thanks. Glad it helped. I have many radial arm saw-centric videos you might like. if you’re new to the RAS, consider getting a copy of the book by Wally Kunkel. It has many very useful tips and information that will help you get the most out of your saw.
Great explanation of fence options for a new RAS owner like me...very appreciated!
Bill Puller Me, too!
with all the trawling I've done to build a table these videos are by far the best to describe what is required. Thank you for posting them
Thank you. I'm glad they are useful.
I just bought a RAS this video was great and I just ordered Mr Sawdust book so between this video and the book I should be able to make the perfect table
Thanks. The Mr Sawdust book is excellent. Glad the video was useful.
I have this same saw I picked up at a yard sale about a year ago. It has no table or fence so I need to build one. The saw itself works great! Nothing like older tools that just keep working.
Absolutely. Worth getting it setup and put back into service.
@@brianweekley5700 that's my plan. Thought about selling it but they dont make them like this anymore.
Great video. I did not know most of the tings you explained. I am learning how versatile my radial arm saw is.
Thanks. The RAS is a great tool. Many of my other videos show more things you can do with it!
Great video. Just picked up my first RAS that had a free sign on it. This definitely will come to good use. Much appreciated!
Excellent. I do highly recommend buying a copy of Wally Kunkel’s book, How to Master the Radial Arm Saw. It will really help you learn how to set it up and use it properly. Many useful tips that make it a must read.
@@brianweekley5700 Newb question. Are the thumb screws really secure enough. I have visions of the fence and rear platform folding and my work piece shifting with the force of the blade.
Mike Conners Plenty strong enough. Almost all radial arm saws use thumb screws or wedges to hold the boards tight. What kind of saw and model did you get?
@@brianweekley5700 B&D 7740 10" blade. Thanks for the info.
Mike Conners You’ll discover the heavier, cast iron models are more desirable, but your DeWalt/B&D 7740 will get you started and is very useable. It’s not that different from the T1812 that I showed in this video (same Frame 350 motor).
Thank you so much for posting this Brian. I aquired a RAS for free and it has the lockdown table base but the original table pieces were replaced with just a piece of plywood even without a fence. I found the instructions I had were not detailed enough to figure out how to build the tables and fence. I was going to ask my 3 fingered carpenter friend but I though...uhmmm maybe not :)
Thanks. Glad it’s helpful. The RAS table design is unique and very versatile.
Thanks, one of the best explanations of the system. There are so many videos with poor and even sometimes dangerous info that it is important to get the better ones to receive more traffic. Not sure how search engines list hits, but if there is a way to improve your placing I would consider it a boon to safety if you could. Thanks, again.
I appreciate that. Thank you!
I love your radial arm saw vids. Its nice to see someone give these saws the respect they deserve. Can you make a vid showing cutting 4x8 sheet of plywood? That would be awesome.
Thanks so much. Except for construction purposes, I try to avoid dealing with whole sheets of plywood whenever possible. I fully take advantage of the home center to partially break down/rip plywood sheets for smaller projects. Not 4 feet wide, but in following video at 5 min:5 sec, I'm ripping 8 foot long plywood using only roller stands: ruclips.net/video/BDPaa5dwR3E/видео.html. In this next video at 1 min:10 sec, I'm ripping shorter, but wider plywood using my extra long back table/fence: ruclips.net/video/KOzRB30gxpE/видео.html. I have another saw in the process of restoration. When that saw is complete, I'll be able to attach my auxiliary extension tables too.
you mean in part 2? or some other video? I saw that long rip with the 8 footer but it was not too wide. And what if you want to take just an inch off a wide 8' plywood piece? Is it ok to take the inch from the side that is up against the fence?
I included some links to some other videos in my previous reply. I don't have any examples of cutting a full 4x8 sheet, but I tried to provide examples of cutting both long and wide sheets. There's no way to remove 1 inch from the outer edge of a 4 foot sheet. Yes, you would have to take it off from the side against the fence. This is why the rip capacity between outer edge of table and the fence located in the full rear position (behind back tables) only needs to be 24-25 inches to cover any width you would need to cut in a 4 foot wide piece of plywood.
Ok so you can take an inch off a 4x8 by taking it off from the fence side right? And that is safe to do right? Thanks. and I will check out the links. I have finally totally stripped and restored my 1962 Craftsman accra arm and its going back together now and a table will need to be made. Im just glad I have your vids as a reference. They are great and I will be building a table very soon.
If you make a good straight cut, the piece to the left of the blade should be just as good as the piece to the right of the blade. If I was using my table saw to remove 1 inch from a 48 inch wide piece of plywood, I would have the same problem. I can't move the fence on my table saw that far to the right of the blade. In reality, I don't want to handle full sheets on a table saw or RAS. Full sheets are unwieldy on any saw without sufficient outfeed tables and support. If you really need to just remove 1 inch from the length of a full sheet of plywood, I would probably opt to use a straight edge and circular saw or track saw instead. Sometimes, it's just easier to move a tool through the wood than the wood through the tool. BTW, I strongly recommend the book noted in the video description (How to Master the Radial Arm Saw, by Wally Kunkle)--worth every penny. Good luck on your saw restoration.
Cool! Up to 25" rip capacity, that would challenge most jobsite table saws. Saving this video for when I do get a RAS.
Being able to rip a half sheet of plywood is about as wide as you need (although I prefer to break it down first with a circular saw, if possible to make it easier to handle). If you watch my video "Improving a Portable Planer (minimize snipe)" at 1:10, you'll see an example of ripping plywood using the extra long back table and fence and some roller stands.
Thank you for this great post. I am working on a new table for my RAS and this will be very helpful.
Please look at my invention "Parallel Guided Power Saw" on you tube.
Great video. I am trying to find those two little clips at the rear of the table. Thanks for any help
Thanks. Are you referring to the thumbscrews that hold the fence and tables together? If your saw is missing the clamps, some people use horizontal toggle clamps as an alternative. There’s a video on RUclips titled “1956 DeWalt MBF” that shows an example using toggle clamps.
Thank you. You have presented some excellent ideas. Just what I needed to better operate my saw.
Thank you.
Best explanation for Ra table setup.
Thank you. Much appreciated!
Great video- my Dad is retired & wants to get back into woodwork. He wants to recalibrate his saw- who can he go to to get this professionally done? A handyman? A carpenter?
Check out my video “Radial Arm Saw Alignment/Calibration”. It’s not difficult to do.
ruclips.net/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/видео.html
I'm thinking MDO would make a good table base material. (If you aren't familiar with it, the edge of MDO looks a bit like Baltic Birch, but it's constructed with harder woods like Fir. The surface(s) have a very smooth mat "Kraft" finish that appears a bit like tissue paper glued on. Smooth as a Formica table top. Used by sign painters and as concrete construction forms where architecturally smooth walls are required.)
Yes, I'm sure that would be a good material to make a table. Flatness of the table is most important (which is why the steel bars are epoxied in to prevent warping). If you search for "Mr. Sawdust table", you will find several good examples. I also highly recommend buying the book "How to master the radial arm saw". It's a superb reference for technique and safety.
Thanks so much for putting this video together. Very well done and easy to follow.
Thank you! BTW, I see you are a photographer and still do darkroom work. Good for you. In the past, I spent many hours developing film and prints. It’s a lost art.
@@brianweekley5700 yep! although, I've been on a little bit of a hiatus from the darkroom for the past year, been focused on learning more about woodworking. I agree - in some ways it has some crossover to the art of fine woodworking.
Brian - do you have a template, or measurements, for the fence cutouts for the shaper guard and shaper head?
I'm going through a full rebuild of an MBF I bought from facebook, which included a shaper head, and a boatload of cutting knives, but no shaper guard - it did, however, have a shaping and jointing fence setup, with toolcraft adjustable depth mechanism, which i may use when building my shaper head and guard fitting fence.
I don’t have a template. However, pretty easy to figure out. Just lower the shaper guard down to the fence and mark. Good luck on your MBF rebuild. Sounds like you got some nice accessories.
Wao. I didnot know this way of using a radial arm saw. Thanks.
On the sacrificial top of your table there appears to be a uniform "cup" where the blade is positioned for ripping. Will you explain what this is and how you created it?
You are referring to the rip trough. First, make sure your saw and table are properly calibrated/leveled (I have a separate video that shows how to setup the saw). Remove the fence, rotate the blade to the rip position, lower the blade about 1/8" into the table, and pull the carriage across the table to create the trough. The trough just make it easier to move the blade back and forth when setting/adjusting the rip width.
@@brianweekley5700 Thanks for your explanation. I have an unlimited supply of 1/8 inch sacrificial panels for the main table. These work well for 90-degree crosscuts and 45's, but the rip cuts not so well.
I am making a rip jig to fit over the main table. Your trough idea makes the jig look nice-instead of random cuts in the face of the sacrificial panel. I believe it will help in keeping the main table clean (and safer) as well.
@@kellyperry7745 I don't see a need for a separate rip jig. A sacrificial top can last a very long time. Some of mine are years old. One trick is to fill the kerfs with Bondo to refresh the top without having to replace it. I only rip, crosscut, and 45 miter into my sacrificial top. If there are any other angles other than 45, I temporarily lay another piece of 1/8" MDF on the table. This keeps my mounted sacrificial top looking good with only the three paths showing (90, 45, and rip trough).
@@brianweekley5700 My jig will be used to cut pre-sanded lengths of wood for end grain cutting boards. I am using extruded aluminum for the frame which will be clamped in place where the regular fence would be. On the opposing side will be an adjustable fence with indexed location holes 1 1/8 inch apart for cutting 1-inch-thick strips and 1 5/8 indexed location holes for cutting 1.5-inch strips. The outer fence is secured to the jig surface by 3/8" bolts/star knobs on each end. Cutting the strips this way ensure they are all uniform in size. I can also use the same jig to crosscut the strips after gluing.
My goal is to reduce the time and expense spent on sanding the cutting boards.
Thanks again for your help.
Outstanding. Brief and to the point.
Much appreciated.
You have earned a like and a subscribe my friend! My RAS Owner's manual and 'Newest ways to expert woodworking book somehow did not explain what i feel to be basic knowledge. Maybe I'm missing some pages. Thank you for this wonderful information!
You are too kind. Thank you!
How do you ensure the entire table is level/planar with the saw depth, for instance when the arbor is facing downward and you are using a router, so that it is a uniform depth all of the way across?
Thanks for the question. I have a separate video that shows you how to completely align the table and saw. ruclips.net/video/EQ_HXSuh1PU/видео.html
@@brianweekley5700 Awesome, thanks!
What is the width of the fence two pieces and the front table?
Video is a great help
I use 3/4” thick wood to make my fences. The back table sizes will depend on your saw. If you properly mount the front table (blade against fence when in in-rip and pointer at zero), you will be able to determine the space available for the back tables (distance from back of fence to column/thumb screws). In my smaller saw I use 1-1/2” and 5-1/2” back tables. For my larger saw, I use 2” and 6” back tables).
@@brianweekley5700 just the info I needed, now have to watch again as I can’t swivel the motor to do rip cuts. Thanks
Using extension tables or building in the RAS into a bench (with the RAS table flush with the bench) allows left and right mitres to be cut easily.
Maybe do some videos ZendMinus, I think we need more RAS videos on youtube.
Erik Salmon - LifeHackerTV As much as I would like to do some videos, my RAS is disassembled and the parts are sitting on a shelf - for a little while longer yet.
I had to remove all of the RAS bench shown in my other post, to allow for the installation of a large metal lathe.
it will eventually be reinstated in a new environment. I've taken over the old double garage (as my woodworking workshop) after building a new double garage in front of the old one.
The floor space is predominantly occupied by a large panel saw.
Where are all the turret saws? Why are they so rare?
Thank you for the insight into the broken fence method... that might help a lot in the future...
Super guidance. I’m very grateful.
Thank you!
Brian, Love that saw...have the same one...how about doing a video on your dust box setup and the way you incorporate your vac system into the RAS setup. a satisfactory and efficient system for mine has always seemed to evade me.
Thanks for your comment. Dust collection on the RAS is certainly a challenging problem. Sorry to disappoint you, but there's not much to my dust collection system. I have a wooden box attached to the back of the saw that just catches sawdust during cross-cuts. It doesn't work great, but it's better than nothing. For ripping, I simply connect a shop vac hose to the blade guard outlet. If you haven't seen this, here's an intriguing setup for crosscut dust collection: ruclips.net/video/7N0zHs7soqA/видео.html
Thank You ... for the valuable information, new to this and you clearly provided the insight to
Tables and Fences.
Thank you. Glad it was useful!
The broken fence method can also be used for cutting acute angles with the radial arm saw
Thanks for the comment. Absolutely--I use that method frequently and a few of my videos show that for cutting acute angles.
Where can I find the actual materials list and dimensions for a top similar to this? Does that exist? I have a Delta 10" (that has 14" of travel) RAS that I've recently purchased and have fallen in love with.
I don’t have a Delta, but you can basically make the table any size you want. I make my tables 37” wide and about 16” deep. Don’t make it too deep, or it’s hard to reach the column crank. I make my tables from two layers of 3/4” plywood and use 1/8” x 3/4” x 36” steel bars. I highly recommend buying the book “How to master the radial arm saw” by Wally Kunkel. It provides the detail on how to make this table, as well as other very useful information on use and safety.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, after I watched and researched some more, I did end up ordering the book. Thank you for responding so quickly. I will be picking up some plywood and steel this afternoon!
I think you’ll find the book useful. Good luck on making a new table for your saw!
FYI anyone watching. When I bought my DeWalt DW8101 RAS new about 30 years ago it came with a left side extension which allows left hand mitres to be cut using the column detent.
In the next little while I plan on giving it a birthday which is why I'm looking at Radial Arm videos.
I haven't made up my mind whether to insert T Tracks for the fence etc in the bench top or stick with the standard arrangement.
I will replace the legs with a cabinet, floor space is always valuable.
My top is 1500 long, tossing up whether to expand to 1800.
I can cross cut almost 600 with a bit of jiggery pokery maybe I'll get the full 600 at less than 20 thick.
I have fairly simple dust collection after some trial and error, it isn't too bad but I will revisit that topic too. I think that can also improve the guarding.
The Radial Arm Saw is less dusty than my table saw.
Glad I came across this. Will use on my Comet to crosscut up to ~ 28" & rip up to ~ 32".
Thanks!! 😉
Glad the video was useful. You must have a monster Comet to make cuts of that length!
@@brianweekley5700 it's old but pretty handy & the price was a steal. The accessory end will drive shaper cutters up to 1" thick.
It's a "live arm" saw that rides on 8 ball bearings.
Google Comet saws to check it out. 😉👍
I really like this style of videos! This is what I call perfect teaching! Thank you very much for sharing. What is the model of this RAS that appears in the scenes?
Thanks! Much appreciated. That saw was my DeWalt “Builders 10”. Unlike most DeWalt radial arm saws, this one has an under table elevation crank. I gave this saw to a friend and substituted it for a better, cast iron model (1030).
@@brianweekley5700 Very cool! Yesterday I watched part 2 of this video, and I can say that my enthusiasm for this type of machine is only increasing.
I recently bought an 8101, and it hasn't arrived at the shop yet...
Did I make a good purchase?! It seems to be in good condition...
Thank you for the videos you've been making, they're like reading excerpts from books and manuals on the subject. See you soon!
Thanks. Sorry, I’m not familiar with the 8101. I believe that is a European model-possibly made in Italy? They are different than the American built DeWalts, but should serve you well.
@@brianweekley5700 Yes, it is one of the models made in Italy by DeWalt... I'm not sure, but it was made in the late 80s or early 90s...
I've just entered the RAS universe, even though I've liked them for a long time... Who knows, maybe in the future I'll be lucky enough to get a rarity from the 60s.
Let's see!
@@rraffaell73 Consider joining the “DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum”. Lots of good information there and a great place to ask questions or learn about all things RAS related.
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for!
Thank you. Glad it was helpful.
How did you accurately align the new tables to the arm of the saw? in other words, the table and fence need to be at 90.0 degrees to the saw arm. how did you achieve this? I bought the book but I did not see how the alignment is accomplished.
Thanks for the question. First, I mount the table as square as I can to the base. I don't know what kind of saw you have, but there should be adjustment screws near the arm lock that will let you further calibrate the arm/blade to be exactly 90 degrees to the fence. On the DeWalt saws, there are set screws that must be loosened first and then adjustable pivot screws that can be used to set the arm angle. If you have Mr. Kunkle's book, it's described on pages 43-44.
Hey, Brian. Besides Ebay, what's a good source for RAS accessories? (I badly want the lathe attachment.)
The DeWalt lathe accessory is pretty rare. It’s a novelty, but I wouldn’t recommend one since it has several disadvantages. For one, it runs at higher speeds than typicality used for wood turning. You also can’t attach any chucks to the headstock. You’d be much better off just buying an old wood lathe. I found an old one on Craigslist for $30 and have a short video on the restoration.
ruclips.net/video/T6lM2rWyuB0/видео.html
I just received a 10' RAS so this explains a lot, thanks :-)
If you're new to the RAS, this is a highly recommended book that explains how to make a table, saw adjustment, and many useful techniques: www.mrsawdust.com
Thanks, Brain. I have been watching all the videos and reading as much as I can, then I go out to the saw with the power off and see how everything works. I have done some adjustments and cleaning to make sure it's safe. I will definitely take a look at this book as well. I hope that more people do videos on these RAS's so that knowledge is passed on.
STRONGLY RECOMMEND Mr. Sawdust's book!!!!! Chas.
Thanks you very much. This was the exact video I was looking for!
Excellent-glad it was useful.
Is there a rule of thumb for the dimensions of the various pieces of the table you made?
Thanks for the question. The table sizes will depend on your saw. The fence location is set as shown in the video. For my consumer-sized DeWalt saws, I make my tables 37" wide (to accept 36" wide steel bars for reinforcement). For the back tables, I split the space available behind the fence approximately (1:3). For the main table, I generally make them about 16-17" deep.
Hi Brian, thanks for the video. I'm just about to build my table..
...and a question came up: how did you determine the widths of the 2 back tables?
Thanks in advance
AB
Depends on the saw,. Determine the amount of space you have available between the back of the fence and the clamps/column. For example if it’s 7 inches, you might make them 1.5 and 5.5. If it’s 8”, I’d make them 2 and 6. The small (in front of the fence) piece gives you a little more cross cut capacity for 1x wood. Either in front of the fence gives you more rip capacity. Hope that helps.
That extra long fence for ripping is a little problematic. When using a table saw for ripping the fence is adjusted to end just past the cutting edge, so the wood is only constrained at the cut. This is a safety measure to allow the wood to spring away from the blade, it it needs to, and not catch on the rear rising teeth and cause a kickback. I would imagine setting the fence to finish just a centimetre or two after the cutting edge when in or out ripping on a radial arm saw would be the thing to do. An old sawyer told me once 'you are only interested in the dimension between the fence and cutting edge', and he used to 'spring' long stuff in towards the fence at the saw-blade even though the part yet to be cut may have been away from the fence.
Thanks for the comment and you bring up a good point that is often discussed. A few comments: On a RAS, the fence naturally extends an equal distance on both sides of the blade (since the blade is centered on the table when rotated to the rip position). Unlike a table saw, the (rear) of the blade spins down pushing the wood towards the table instead of lifting the rear end up on a TS. A straight, jointed edge should always face the fence. Under that condition, you normally wouldn't have kickback using a longer fence. However, I agree that when cutting reaction wood, it's possible for the kerf to closeup behind the blade and pinch/bind the blade. Unfortunately, most radial arm saws are not equipped with a splitter to prevent that situation from happening. Therefore, depending on the wood, there might be times when a shorter fence is preferred, but that alone generally doesn't eliminate the potential for pinching (without a splitter). However, I do find the extra long fence is very useful for cutting large panels (stable sheet goods)--much easier than on my table saw because it provides much better support along the cut. The bottom line is to always work safely (use the anti-kickback devices), think about what may go wrong, listen to the sound of the motor, keep your hands and body out of the line of fire, etc...
Well done video with invaluable information. Thank you.
Thank you very much!
What widths for the back tables do you recommend?
It's going to depend on your saw. Measure how much room is available between the back of the fence and your clamps/thumbscrews. You should have two back tables (one narrow and one wide). On my MBF, the back tables are 1-3/4" and 5-1/2". On my larger 1030, the back tables are 2" and 6".
@@brianweekley5700 Many thanks. I have a 7770 250 Power Station. Between your channel, Mr. Sawdust, and R.J. de Cristoforo, I find there are very few tasks I can't do on my RAS.
Great to hear!
Excellent video. Very informative. Cheers.
Big pro-tip, Don't use a RAS for cutting a bunch of different angle, try to use jigs and stuff, instead of constantly moving and cutting new holes in your fence and table. I made that mistake and now I need to replace my table and fences etc.
Thanks for the comment. When cutting angles other than 90 or 45 degrees, I always lay a scrap piece of 1/4 inch MDF down to avoid extra kerfs in my table. For the fence, check out my “zero clearance fence for the radial arm saw” video. This also eliminates extra kerfs in the fence.
I never use In rip. The carriage is in closer and far more study and I want to see the blade. Best thing about a Radial. It always tells you to beware ,and not like a table saw that you can't much and take your fingers off holding a warped board down . I've heard that story too many times .
It’s nice the RAS allows multiple ripping options (in and out rip). Both work well. Personally, I prefer in rip most of the time. Being right handed, it’s more comfortable for me to rip from that side. Also, the on/off switch on my saws is located on the right side of the arm. Edge work can only be done in the in rip configuration.
@@brianweekley5700 Very good points👍👍. I don't like having to reach for the on/ off switch on mine. I'll have to think that through what you said . I have an industrial drill press and it has an off switch pedal. I might see if I can wire mine to shut down. Again a very good point about the switch . 👍👍😎
@@brianweekley5700 Some Radials have a blade break to stop the spin after the cut. Mine doesn't,but "Someone" I know uses a board to push against the side of the blade to stop the coast 🙄. I'm sure that's not in my operational manual . I mean not listed in my friends operational manual ❗ 😏
@@FantomWireBrian Eek! A blade that takes a long time to spin down is typically a sign that the motor bearings on these old saws need to be replaced (the grease dries up and there's little friction to stop the blade). New bearings typically stop much faster, but having a blade brake is a bonus.
@@FantomWireBrian Most people I know use in-rip as the preferred setup. Besides, you can't always move the blade all the way to the fence when in out-rip. Check out this excellent demo by a member of our DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum... ruclips.net/video/vyZ0RYl27jU/видео.html
thanks for the vidéo
the information will help me
great job
Thank you very much!
valid explanation!
Thank you. Hope it’s useful.
I learned a thing or two, Thank You
Please look at my invention "Parallel Guided Power Saw" on you tube.
I just picked up the same exact radial arm saw yesterday. Not sure what I did but it doesn't start. I put a multimeter on the switch and it looked like it has power going through when I hit the green. Not sure what to do next to troubleshoot. plz help. thanks
I suggest joining the "DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum". There are a lot of members that could probably help you troubleshoot. forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher?redirCnt=1
Very useful! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
hello. What size brass nails did you use to hold the top down? thanks.
I used brass screws to hold down the sacrificial top to the table shown in this video. However, now I just use a nail gun with 18 gauge, 5/8 inch long nails to hold it down. This is much easier than using screws and is shown in the second video--Part 2. ruclips.net/video/_e5yQC_i7mI/видео.html
Oh thanks.
What are your sizes? On the table & fence.
Thanks for the question. The size of the tables really depends on the brand/model of the saw. For a typical 10 inch saw, I generally make the “main table” 37 inches wide and deep enough so the blade remains over the table when the saw is moved to the maximum “Out-rip” position (about 17 inches for the saw shown in this video). Once the “main table” is mounted in place, you can calculate the distance available for the fence and “back tables” (distance remaining between the main table and the column or clamping system). For this saw, I use a 3/4 inch thick fence with 2 inch and 6 inch “back tables”.
I have a similar saw. It must be from the '60s and has a 9" blade.
Those older saws are quality machines and held their adjustments better than the newer ones. Correctly setup and used, they are wonderful saws!
Where can you get new table
You make a new table for your radial arm saw. Checkout the next video “Radial Arm Saw: Tables and Fences (Part 2)”. Another one of my videos shows a better example of the table glue-up process: “Router Table for B&D Workmate”.
thank you
I don't think you mentioned the width of your back table pieces. Looks like 2" and 6". Probably could be different, and maybe should be with a different model of saw, but those look like good widths for anyone with your model of RAS.
It really depends on the saw and the space left between the fence and column. On this saw, they are indeed 2" and 6". On my smaller MBF, they are 1.5" and 5.5".
@@brianweekley5700
Brilliant video Brian. New to the RAS world and this fence/2 rear spacers info is exactly what I needed.
I'll be watching all your videos before I buy more wood to replace the (VERY improperly spaced and sized) worn out base and fence on the saw I bought.
Thank you, Sir.
when you rip you use the frond of the blade but on cross cut you the back of the blade/ to dangerous.
Backside of the blade? When cross-cutting, you pull the blade towards you. Yes, it is important to use a correct blade to minimize a “climb cut”, but that is not dangerous and easily controlled.
Thank you!
Please look at my invention "Parallel Guided Power Saw" on you tube.
I like the videos but the erroneous use of quotation marks is distracting.
Here is my version of an adjustable RAS fence www.homemadetools.net/forum/radial-arm-saw-fence-new-design-39532#post55407
I like that idea, I might just have to try that :-)
This is brilliant!
I'm new to the RAS world and need to replace the base, fence(s) and properly calibrate the saw. I'll be adding your idea before I do anything.
Thanks for posting this.
You wouldn't happen to have a video of it in action would you?
@@Maxxis1941 sorry, no,I don't have a video. I can't make one for you, as my RAS is in pieces at the moment after moving it from it's original location (in a different workshop). It is simple enough to use, I think you'll manage ok with your build 😉