🤯🤯🤯 Howdy stranger!!! That’s so crazy that this video would find its way to your RUclips feed 🤣 what a small world. Sorry I didn’t end up using that cable door for very long, I couldn’t help but switch to USB-C. Nevertheless thanks so much for sending it to me and dropping a comment!
Hey, hope you can help! I have the TE1 and converting it into leverless/buttonbox. I ordered the new UFB Fusion board, and all the necessary parts. Have a couple other videos to follow once parts arrive. I noticed you have a neutrix style USB C adapter making the wire detachable. Do I just find any male USB A to female USB C adapter? Other videos I've seen just have a regular USB A to USB B directly attached to the board. Can you give me some more information on this please? Thanks!
Great question! It all depends on which Neutrik style connector you’d like to use. The UFB Fusion board has a USB Type B female connection on the board itself, and if you’re looking to utilize the same Cliff adapter that I did, it has a USB-C Male connection on the back side. So, for this combo you would need a short USB-B Male to USB-C Female cable to achieve this configuration. Hope this helps!
Hey guy just found your video, I've got a TE rd 1 I want to replace the panel for but looking at the AFS website the only "no turbo" option for the enclosure is a leverless option which I don't want to do. what size would fit a TE rd 1 but doesn't have a turbo window?
Quick questions: What is the Type B male to Type C cable needed for? For the actual tear down and replacements, where can I go to see this done? I was hoping you'd show it yourself and while the parts list and reasonings were helpful, as I'm looking to update and clean my still functioning TE1 from 15 years ago for SF6 it is a struggle to get a modern day instruction on how I'd go about replacing something like the PCB and other parts. So any advice would be incredibly helpful. Thank you!
Sure, I hope I can be of help! I selected the Type B male to Type C female 12" cable for my build because I needed to bridge the Universal Fighting Board PCB (which has a Type B female soldered onto it) over to the Cliff USB C to USB C Passthrough Connector (which has a Type C male on the back, or "internal" connection side). The real world purpose of switching to Type C was to simplify the cables I carry with me to just one kind, USB Type C. This way, the same cable that is used for an Xbox controller can be borrowed for my arcade stick, and vice versa. It seems too often these days you try to ask someone to borrow a "printer USB cable" and they look at you like you have three heads. So, I'm loving using Type C so far. For the specific tear down, it was hard for me to find specification information too- and the conclusion I came to as to why that was is because everyone's build is different. So as much as you might think it would help to have step by step instructions, I would say a better approach is to just take the TE1 completely apart, down to the studs, and see what fits where with the parts you've ordered. I had to get creative with a lot of things inside my stick, which I don't necessarily want to make a tutorial on because it's probably not required or even recommended for your stick mod, things of that nature. But more specifically in terms of SF6 are you looking to connect to a PS5? If so, Brook has announced a new Wingman wired fighting stick converter compatible with PS5 here: www.brookaccessory.com/products/wingmanfgc/index.html which may or may not help you out, and they even have a new UFB announced as well: www.brookaccessory.com/detail/27402750/ I bring this product up specifically because it would be difficult to find the space to fit the PS5 upgrade kit onto the previous UFB model that I used- having the PS5 functionality built into the UFB would be ideal in this scenario, even just to save space. So, I hope this helps but if you have any more questions definitely let me know!
Would you happen to have a step by step for this? I've got an old UMvC3 TE that I'm also trying to bring current, but I have no idea how the pcb/mobo wiring or any of that works. I can replace the buttons and stick stuff just fine, but am worried the board is just getting too darn old... Ive just been using it on PC, but plan on trying to get out for some tournies. Aside from your parts list and your recommendation to do a full tear down though... i have very little idea where to start!
Great question! Unfortunately I don’t have a step by step, as more than a few of the steps were improvised along the way haha. I have outlined more of my experience modding the TE1 in my other video here: ruclips.net/video/LS_LwaGndcg/видео.html If you haven’t before, I would say the simplest answer of where to start is to grab your screwdriver and start taking your case apart- once you start taking it apart you’ll start to see what you’re working with. In terms of PCB wiring almost everyone is using a wiring harness these days. This just means one plug contains all the wiring connections going to the PCB at once, so there is no need for soldering each individually. So just one plug and you’re done with the PCB side of things. Then the other side of the wiring is just plugging those wires into the corresponding buttons. Usually the PCB will come with a chart of which color wires go to which buttons. I hope this helps get you started but if you have any more questions let me know!
This mod is so amazing! Great work, I've been doing a lot of search on building/ buying a new stick and I heavily considering trying this! *Edit: I'm a big fan of using hefty/weighted peripherals if I considered doing a similar mod with a button box or regular TE stick, how would you recommend adding more weight to this while keeping it sturdy?
Thanks!! I did a lot of research as well before deciding to take this route, but I’m glad I did. I’m not sure exactly what I would do to make it heavier, but there’s plenty of space especially in the bottom of the case so my first guess is that you could buy steel bars / brackets from a hardware store and glue them to the bottom, that’s the simplest solution I can think of off the top of my head since you already have to take the entire stick apart anyway 😅 hope this helps you get some ideas flowing! 🤓
Great question! I’m not quite sure as unfortunately I don’t have a TE2+ to test with, but you might be able to message buttercade through Etsy to find out straight from the source. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!!
It's listed as working for TE2 as well. Check the link for it and scroll down, there's a compatability breakdown that lists all the sticks it works with.
Good question! I thought about doing this as well, but beyond the door is a cable "box", so you'd have to drill through that as well- it's really better off removed to give you more room inside the case. That being said, if you decide to remove the cable box, the door then will have nothing to support it- so drilling button holes would get mighty precarious in this scenario. In short, it's well worth the $15US for the 3D printed Buttercade cable door replacement, however I realize they are short in supply at the moment. I see there is only 1 in stock on their Etsy page at the time of writing this.
@@dylanmacintosh Caved and purchased one when there were two left in stock haha, the hesitation came from delivery to the UK being the price of 3 extra doors
Great video (and great looking mod). I've just ordered a Jasen's Customs Madcatz TE EZ MOD for the purpose of bringing my original TE back to life with modern consoles. Does the UFB maintain the headphone socket ability in the TE or do you lose that when using with a Xbox Series X/PS5? It'd be understandable if you did. Is the old 360 turbo panel redundant then with a UFB mod or can you map those old buttons to UFB features (like turbo, etc)?
Thanks very much for watching! Great questions too- I was excited to see the TE EZ MOD pop up on my feed, if it’s the one I’m thinking of I believe it’s limited to just 100 units 😱 glad you got one! For the headphone jack, you’re more than welcome to solder the existing TE audio jack into the UFB- however I’m not sure if that functionality carries over to the Xbox/PS5 consoles (I think it would, just not sure). I chose to rip mine out cuz I doubt I’ll ever use the headphone audio personally. The old 360 turbo panel is redundant once you add more buttons to the TE via the Buttercade replacement cable door for use with the UFB- but if you don’t want to add the Buttercade/more buttons, I have seen people solder up the old 360 turbo panel to the UFB as well. I chose to go with the Buttercade door especially because I wanted to switch over to a removable USB cable, specifically USB-C on a neutrik style port. Hope this helps!!
Buttercade (the same company that made the replacement cable door with button holes that I used in this video) sells them on Etsy! www.etsy.com/listing/662874644/
No problem glad I could help! I don’t mind the original chunky sides actually 🤣 but I could definitely see opting for the smooth sides for a clean look, or to make the stick more portable for throwing in a bag, etc. Since you have to open the stick completely to replace the sides anyway, maybe that would be a good time to convert one of your TE1’s to a button box layout, add a UFB, or both! 😁. Definitely easier to do it all at once while the stick is taken apart. Good luck with your TE1 endeavors and thanks for watching!!
![Unleash Power [Mad Catz T.E.3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KfDazVoCahM/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm glad I saw this because i'm going to attempt to revive my MVC 2 TE stick since everything on it stopped working.
Nice, you can do it!
Ayyyy I'm that stranger from Reddit!! Funny this showed up on my page a year later. Hope you been well
🤯🤯🤯 Howdy stranger!!! That’s so crazy that this video would find its way to your RUclips feed 🤣 what a small world.
Sorry I didn’t end up using that cable door for very long, I couldn’t help but switch to USB-C.
Nevertheless thanks so much for sending it to me and dropping a comment!
Hey, hope you can help!
I have the TE1 and converting it into leverless/buttonbox.
I ordered the new UFB Fusion board, and all the necessary parts. Have a couple other videos to follow once parts arrive.
I noticed you have a neutrix style USB C adapter making the wire detachable. Do I just find any male USB A to female USB C adapter? Other videos I've seen just have a regular USB A to USB B directly attached to the board. Can you give me some more information on this please? Thanks!
Great question! It all depends on which Neutrik style connector you’d like to use. The UFB Fusion board has a USB Type B female connection on the board itself, and if you’re looking to utilize the same Cliff adapter that I did, it has a USB-C Male connection on the back side. So, for this combo you would need a short USB-B Male to USB-C Female cable to achieve this configuration. Hope this helps!
Hey guy just found your video, I've got a TE rd 1 I want to replace the panel for but looking at the AFS website the only "no turbo" option for the enclosure is a leverless option which I don't want to do. what size would fit a TE rd 1 but doesn't have a turbo window?
Do I need to use the brooks board in order to use the Cliff USB C passthrough? I assume yes?
does the bottom plate hang loose with just 5 screws?
Not at all, it’s holding up just fine.
Quick questions:
What is the Type B male to Type C cable needed for?
For the actual tear down and replacements, where can I go to see this done? I was hoping you'd show it yourself and while the parts list and reasonings were helpful, as I'm looking to update and clean my still functioning TE1 from 15 years ago for SF6 it is a struggle to get a modern day instruction on how I'd go about replacing something like the PCB and other parts. So any advice would be incredibly helpful.
Thank you!
Sure, I hope I can be of help! I selected the Type B male to Type C female 12" cable for my build because I needed to bridge the Universal Fighting Board PCB (which has a Type B female soldered onto it) over to the Cliff USB C to USB C Passthrough Connector (which has a Type C male on the back, or "internal" connection side). The real world purpose of switching to Type C was to simplify the cables I carry with me to just one kind, USB Type C. This way, the same cable that is used for an Xbox controller can be borrowed for my arcade stick, and vice versa. It seems too often these days you try to ask someone to borrow a "printer USB cable" and they look at you like you have three heads. So, I'm loving using Type C so far.
For the specific tear down, it was hard for me to find specification information too- and the conclusion I came to as to why that was is because everyone's build is different. So as much as you might think it would help to have step by step instructions, I would say a better approach is to just take the TE1 completely apart, down to the studs, and see what fits where with the parts you've ordered. I had to get creative with a lot of things inside my stick, which I don't necessarily want to make a tutorial on because it's probably not required or even recommended for your stick mod, things of that nature.
But more specifically in terms of SF6 are you looking to connect to a PS5? If so, Brook has announced a new Wingman wired fighting stick converter compatible with PS5 here: www.brookaccessory.com/products/wingmanfgc/index.html which may or may not help you out, and they even have a new UFB announced as well: www.brookaccessory.com/detail/27402750/
I bring this product up specifically because it would be difficult to find the space to fit the PS5 upgrade kit onto the previous UFB model that I used- having the PS5 functionality built into the UFB would be ideal in this scenario, even just to save space.
So, I hope this helps but if you have any more questions definitely let me know!
Would you happen to have a step by step for this? I've got an old UMvC3 TE that I'm also trying to bring current, but I have no idea how the pcb/mobo wiring or any of that works. I can replace the buttons and stick stuff just fine, but am worried the board is just getting too darn old...
Ive just been using it on PC, but plan on trying to get out for some tournies. Aside from your parts list and your recommendation to do a full tear down though... i have very little idea where to start!
Great question! Unfortunately I don’t have a step by step, as more than a few of the steps were improvised along the way haha. I have outlined more of my experience modding the TE1 in my other video here: ruclips.net/video/LS_LwaGndcg/видео.html
If you haven’t before, I would say the simplest answer of where to start is to grab your screwdriver and start taking your case apart- once you start taking it apart you’ll start to see what you’re working with. In terms of PCB wiring almost everyone is using a wiring harness these days. This just means one plug contains all the wiring connections going to the PCB at once, so there is no need for soldering each individually. So just one plug and you’re done with the PCB side of things. Then the other side of the wiring is just plugging those wires into the corresponding buttons. Usually the PCB will come with a chart of which color wires go to which buttons.
I hope this helps get you started but if you have any more questions let me know!
@@dylanmacintoshAwesome!!! Thank you so much!
This mod is so amazing! Great work, I've been doing a lot of search on building/ buying a new stick and I heavily considering trying this!
*Edit: I'm a big fan of using hefty/weighted peripherals if I considered doing a similar mod with a button box or regular TE stick, how would you recommend adding more weight to this while keeping it sturdy?
Thanks!! I did a lot of research as well before deciding to take this route, but I’m glad I did. I’m not sure exactly what I would do to make it heavier, but there’s plenty of space especially in the bottom of the case so my first guess is that you could buy steel bars / brackets from a hardware store and glue them to the bottom, that’s the simplest solution I can think of off the top of my head since you already have to take the entire stick apart anyway 😅 hope this helps you get some ideas flowing! 🤓
@@dylanmacintosh Ah I see, that makese a sense, I'll try togive that a shot when I do my build. Thank you! :D
Great video quality!
Thanks for watching!
Does that butter cade door work for the te2+?
Great question! I’m not quite sure as unfortunately I don’t have a TE2+ to test with, but you might be able to message buttercade through Etsy to find out straight from the source. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!!
It's listed as working for TE2 as well. Check the link for it and scroll down, there's a compatability breakdown that lists all the sticks it works with.
Do you reckon drilling holes into the default cable bay door would also work?
Good question! I thought about doing this as well, but beyond the door is a cable "box", so you'd have to drill through that as well- it's really better off removed to give you more room inside the case. That being said, if you decide to remove the cable box, the door then will have nothing to support it- so drilling button holes would get mighty precarious in this scenario. In short, it's well worth the $15US for the 3D printed Buttercade cable door replacement, however I realize they are short in supply at the moment. I see there is only 1 in stock on their Etsy page at the time of writing this.
@@dylanmacintosh Caved and purchased one when there were two left in stock haha, the hesitation came from delivery to the UK being the price of 3 extra doors
@@Caivr ah I see, damn postage!! I’m glad you ended up securing one 🤘
Great video (and great looking mod). I've just ordered a Jasen's Customs Madcatz TE EZ MOD for the purpose of bringing my original TE back to life with modern consoles. Does the UFB maintain the headphone socket ability in the TE or do you lose that when using with a Xbox Series X/PS5? It'd be understandable if you did.
Is the old 360 turbo panel redundant then with a UFB mod or can you map those old buttons to UFB features (like turbo, etc)?
Thanks very much for watching! Great questions too- I was excited to see the TE EZ MOD pop up on my feed, if it’s the one I’m thinking of I believe it’s limited to just 100 units 😱 glad you got one!
For the headphone jack, you’re more than welcome to solder the existing TE audio jack into the UFB- however I’m not sure if that functionality carries over to the Xbox/PS5 consoles (I think it would, just not sure). I chose to rip mine out cuz I doubt I’ll ever use the headphone audio personally.
The old 360 turbo panel is redundant once you add more buttons to the TE via the Buttercade replacement cable door for use with the UFB- but if you don’t want to add the Buttercade/more buttons, I have seen people solder up the old 360 turbo panel to the UFB as well. I chose to go with the Buttercade door especially because I wanted to switch over to a removable USB cable, specifically USB-C on a neutrik style port.
Hope this helps!!
I WISH someone would release a TE-S style L/R bezel. I 2 OG TE sticks and I wish they didn't have the thick sides!
Buttercade (the same company that made the replacement cable door with button holes that I used in this video) sells them on Etsy! www.etsy.com/listing/662874644/
@@dylanmacintosh oh my loooord how have I never found those?! Thanks!
No problem glad I could help! I don’t mind the original chunky sides actually 🤣 but I could definitely see opting for the smooth sides for a clean look, or to make the stick more portable for throwing in a bag, etc. Since you have to open the stick completely to replace the sides anyway, maybe that would be a good time to convert one of your TE1’s to a button box layout, add a UFB, or both! 😁. Definitely easier to do it all at once while the stick is taken apart. Good luck with your TE1 endeavors and thanks for watching!!
You just win a new subscriber
Thank you very much! If you have any questions on this mod please let me know!