Silicone Mold Making: a how to guide on making a mold for casting resin fishing lures
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- Опубликовано: 9 дек 2022
- Please join me for this step-by-step tutorial on how to make a DIY silicone mold for casting your own resin handmade fishing lures. My lure making process starts with detailed carving a wooden custom bait for either saltwater or freshwater. Then I walk through everything I do to make a silicone mold from start to finish. Whether you are making poppers, minnows, crankbaits, swim baits, glide baits, GT lures, big baits, topwater lures, suspending baits or sinking baits, these amazing resin copies are perfect for chasing whatever fish species you want. I hope you enjoy!
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Great vid, straight to the point with thorough directions and no wasted footage! Videos like this are why I use YT.
I will be casting a chess set(s) with resin. Prepping for that I've just spent hours watching stay at home moms and grandmothers try to to do what you just did here...If all of those other videos were combined it wouldn't give the necessary details you provided!
Thank you for not adding generic movie clips throughout the video, not sure why many in the woodworking community started doing this?! My time is precious to me, if I wanted to watch movie clips I would look them up instead of searching what I'm trying to make.
I don't fish, a couple of my brothers do along with their kids. I would be interested in making some fishing lures. Would love to see you post a series from start to finish (maybe multiple series for different lure types) making lures covering all the details (especially the painting process). I suspect you would have 100k subs in no time sticking with the format of this video.
Many thanks for posting, hope you keep the vids coming! You've earned a new sub.
Thank you very much for your kind words! I am very happy that you found this useful and really appreciate your comments. I have thought about making a chess set but never found the time. Good luck to you on your project!
indeed
Toothpick. "We need to kinda eyeball." Procedes to cut perfect length. Great video. Subscribed and liked!
Awesome! Thank you!
Just something I've learned from doing this for quite a few years... To aide with the bubble issue, hold the cup able a foot above the mold and pour very slowly so that it is a stream about the width of a coffee stirrer. Also pour in one corner and let the silicone work its way across the mold so air is pushed out of the undercuts of the master and doesn't get trapped.
This has always worked well for me. Try it and see how it does for you. Great videos BTW. I always enjoy your content.
Thanks, I will give that a try! I appreciate your interest and support!
Excellent demonstration. I’ve purchased everything needed to make molds a year ago, but never had time to devote making one. Soon I hope to do so
Thanks! It certainly does open up more possibilities. I appreciate you stopping by!
Great step by step. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Grat work 👍👍👍
Great carving master . Good looking lure
Thanks, I'm glad you like it!
Awesome!
Thank you!
This is a perfect lure , i just want to make an easy one .
Amazing, thanks for sharing
Glad you like it!
Nice job!
Thanks!
Brilliant would love to make my own👊
Go for it!
Very nice work a true artis
Many many thanks!
I really enjoy your content. I plan on giving this a try in the near future and appreciate all the detail you provide.
Glad to hear it, thanks for watching and commenting!
@@zimmtex can I ask what type of wood you use?
Sorry for the slow reply. I have really been liking basswood lately.
Nice video! Let's see how the lure turns out. 👍
Thanks! Coming soon!
Great video, you are light years ahead of me. The only advice I can offer is when shooting your finish nailer look at the end of your nails there is a bevel. This will cause the strays that wasn't too shoot wild through the sides of your wood. I'd you keep your gun 90° off of how you where shooting. You'll have far less strays when building molds or doing stain grade finish work around the house. Just a tip I picked up many years ago. GREAT VIDEOS!!! PLEASE KEEP THEM COMING
Thanks for watching and for the tip! I'm getting a little better with the nailer, but still get a stray every now and then. Got to watch that angle...
Never thought of using my dab rig tools for sculpting clay... normally used for smoking high concentrated THC, but I do like this practical use as well.
Thanks for watching!
Nice work. I would advise pre-drilling the mold box screw holes with a smaller bit to avoid the splitting.
Thanks for the tip and for watching!
Another good video. I’m hoping your next one goes into how to add weight. Thanks for sharing
Thank you! It's probably not the next video, but I do intend to make that one soon. I appreciate your interest and support!
true art
Thank you very much!
When i worked for a big tackle company i use to use bondo..that was around 25 years ago.
I have only used it to fill ballast holes, but I can see how it could make a good lure.
You can also wet sand with 1000 grit sandpaper it gets them like glass. Works great.
For sure! Thanks for watching!
Watching for inspiration I am molding chair arms same shape several kg of 2 part 30 silly seal. 28"x12"x3.5" will do the skin coat.
That's cool, hope it works out for ya!
Mix equal parts petroleum jelly to equal parts mineral oil - best mold release ive found. 0 mishaps in 25+ 2 part molds
Excellent tip, thank you!
Great video, thanks for sharing. I´m doing some resin lures and find that after the first epoxy coat, some bubbles (air) appear. I guess is air or microballoons trapped in the resin. Any suggestion to solve this problem? Thanks!!
Great to hear from a fellow lure maker! I don't think your issue is microballoons. One thing you want to be sure to do is let your resin fully cure before you try to clearcoat it. If you try to paint and clearcoat it too soon after pouring, it could still be off-gassing. Another thing I have learned (with wood) is that you don't want the lure to be warm or it will off-gas, like using the hair dryer to dry the paint and then immediately trying to clearcoat it. Hope this helps! If you have more questions, please leave a new comment so I will be sure to see it. Replies to comments do not pop up in my feed and I have too many to go back and search at this point. Thanks for your question and support!
Gran vidio un saludo 🤚🙏
Thank you and welcome!
Gracias
Gracias ha usted por enseñar la técnica que nos vale a todos
if you pre-drill a pilot hole first, the diameter of the shank of the screw or a bit smaller, it won't crack the particle board or MDF or even pine.
I did that, but maybe should have used a slightly bigger bit. Oh well, it got the job done.
The tool on 9:45 is dental knife and its used by dental technicians.
There are a lot of tools useful for lure making that are used in dental techniqe. You can use plaster cast for molds, there are a lot of type of it. Also steel wire is very useful, becose its stainless and you can bend it easily.
The silicon is also very useful, becose you dont have to melt it.
I've noticed that there are a lot of great dental tools for lure making. Thanjs for watching!
Love your videos! Are you doing the heavy sanding with an old sanding belt or is that something else? I've been using sanding belts but they seem extremely stiff. Thanks for sharing all this greatness!
Thank you! I get thin rolls of sandpaper from the auto parts store in different grits. They start out kinda stiff, but it doesn't take too long for them to get more flexible. I appreciate your support!
Did you know that you can melt plasticine with a little heat and pour it into the mould box, then as it sets up again you can press the buck / form into it for a really good mold
I did not know that. I haven't gotten into soft plastics so far. Thanks for the tip!
@@zimmtex plasticine is like the non drying clay you used
Can the plasticine be reused after melting it? And how do you melt it?
Put your clay in the oven and ONLY turn on the light. This is what we used to do to dry out a newspaper! You can pre-warm the oven with the light and I would say leave it in there 15 min. It's not too hot and should work great.
Excellent tip, thank you!
Great video. How would the silicone you are using hold up to the heat of pouring soft plastic baits?
I'm not sure but I know there is such a thing as high temperature silicone.
The thing w Legos is yea they may be exspensive but u can use them over and over again..love the video
That is true. Thanks for watching!
Have seen lego & knock offs at thrift stores many times.
👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you!
I hope this isn't nit picking but you should pre-drill those screw holes a bit larger, something closer to the size of the screws. As long as the thread has something to bite on to it should hold, that type of trim board doesn't have much give in it. Probably because of the glue used to make it dries hard and that is why it's cracking when you are putting those screws in, where as timber has some give in it . Great tutorial by the way, really liked the carving you did on the head & gills, is this a walk the dog type lure or a stick bait.
Well, I actually did drill those out bigger (off camera for time) but not quite big enough I guess. I bet you're right about the glue. In any case, this is a topwater WTD. It is a scaled down version of the one I made without power tools which had an incredible action. However, I don't see why I couldn't add a lip and make it a crankbait. I suppose with enough weight I could also make some sticks. The great thing about resin is that I can experiment with it. Thanks for watching and commenting!
👍👍
Thanks!
Great video. How do you get the clay bed so flat and level? Mine always come out like some kind of topology map. TIA
Thanks! I put a centerline mark all the way around the inside of the box which helps a lot. You could also use a block of wood to tamp and level.
Would you need a high temperature silicone to handle pouring lead in the mold?
Yes, I think so. Check out Smooth-On, I belueve they have a product just for that.
What clay do u use
If u put ure pencil on the line first then bring ure square up to it then you get a lot more accurate line
Thanks for the tip, I'll try to remember!
Awesome, could you possibly create your masters out of clay and then use this process to create the molds?
Yes you could!
👍
Thanks!
👍
Would this work for lead? If not what material should you use?
Although silicone can handle high temperatures, I'm not sure if it would work for hot lead. I've not tried it, bui I think Smooth-On makes a product for lead molds.
I have a polurethane rubber emblem and want to make a mold of it can I pour silicone rubber over it, will that work or would it stick permanantly do you know?
I would think so. Just be sure to put plenty of release agent on it first.
Very nice work.
A quick question have you or anyone out there used a silacone mould to cast lead? seen a Japanese site do it but could not understand s word of it.
I have not; I know there are different kinds of silicone, some made for high heat. I guess I just haven't had the need to cast lead in silicone yet. Thanks for watching!
There's def vids on yt with english speaking people doing it with pewter.
what wood did you use to carve your bait out, i tried pine 2x4 and it would splinter off everywhere and couldn't do the scales.
Try basswood or poplar for carving. Both have a nice fine grain and are pleasant to work with.
Hello once i have the mold what is the markwt name of the aubstance to dill in ifbi want to make a simple topwater skalicone lure?
Thank you .
Awaiting your rwply .
Please agree sear sir the expressions of my seepeat thoughts .
Best regards
I haven't tried making any silicone lures, but I have another video on making resin lures here:
ruclips.net/video/g5zhm20TjAw/видео.html
What's clay name and type if don't mind what vaseline do you have, use. Where did you get the special tool you used?
You can find links to most of the products I use on my website here: www.zimmtexlures.com/productlinks
I made have overlooked it, but what kind of wood did you use for the master?
Was curious about that too. Wouldn't be surprised if it was bass wood, as it's often used for carving and has a similar appearance to the wood he had...the irony of it being bass wood.
This one is basswood which I have been favoring lately. Poplar is also good; really anything with a fine grain that is easy to carve. I don't really like balsa because it is too soft and doesn't hold detail really well.
Can you link the materials for silicon? I’ve seen a few brands and don’t know what to use
I'm using Let's Resin brand. You can find links to m9st everything I use under 'Tools of the Trade' here:
www.zimmtexlures.com/productlinks
Ese silicón rubber soporta altas temperaturas???
hot lead
I don't think this one does, but I know there is such a thing.
Prey drill maybe both parts??
You bet!
What is the name of the dough you put under the mold
It's a non-drying modeling clay. I have links to most of the products I use on my website:
www.zimmtexlures.com/productlinks
What kind of wood do you use?
Lately I've been working with basswood but I also use poplar.
What kind of silicone do you use
It's a platinum silicone. If you are interested, I have links to most of the products I use on my website here: www.ZimmtexLures.com
What type of clay do you use?
This is a non-drying clay. You can find links to most of the products I use on my website:
www.zimmtexlures.com/productlinks
Put a video of the blaze test of this bait and it definitely does not have a good blaze because it is epoxy
I'm thinking mold release by it self isn't enough
It can be, but I don't like to risk the silicone sticking.
Instead of making a mold box could you use an old Tupperware container
Maybe, if you cut the bottom off your container. You really need to be able to access both the top & bottom.
@@zimmtex ty will give that a try
Geez I clicked because thumbnail looked like an airfoil
Ha! How cool would that be!
Should have just got a 3d printer. Would have saved so much time. Nice work though!
Thanks for watching!
careful, always put some mask on
Yes, I highly recommend it! We all forget sometimes, but it is really important!
You can't zero out the scale with weight already on it? If you hit the tare button it will zero it out. Then you won't overload it.
Thanks, I'll have to try that! Most of the time I'm using small amounts so it doesn't matter, but every once in a while I need more capacity.