Here is a link to a downloadable PDF file with a list of the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos: www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
@@Aconspiracyofravens1 It depends on the materials you are trying to keep apart. It is always best to test small samples to see what works with the materials you are using.
Robert, part one of the mold making was amazing! You can think out of the box when it comes to each project. I loved how you handled my project. I’m pretty meticulous when it comes to my model work and I can see from the video, you are as well. Thank you for the care and determination you show on each project you do. I can’t wait to see part two!
I just love the passion! ...................... You may be up at 2.30AM making moulds, doesn't stop me from being up at 3.00AM watching you! ; ) Actually, that's when I do my best work, in the middle of the night! TURK
I love that u can understand everything he says. Most people that do these videos either talk too low or u can't understand them. He also knows what he is talking about. I just found him looking for silicone mold making. I finally found someone who knows what he is talking about. Thanks Robert
I don’t quite know how I got down this rabbit hole but this guy is my new favourite human. He’s so fun to watch. If there was a job opening in a shop with this guy I’d be there!!!! What a joy it was to watch this whole process.
I love love love this channel, I'm just here waiting for you to blow up to be as big as any of the craft youtubers. It's impressive the amount of quality you already have in sound recording, multiple cameras, visuals, lighting, editing, and not to mention craft skill. The quality here is of a 100k+ channel and I was surprised to see you at only 2.7k. I do have a project I'm curious on what your approach would be, but I'll think about sending that into you some other time.
Thanks so much for your comment! I put a ridiculous amount of time each week into my videos but it’s a lot of fun and the viewers make it all worthwhile. Looking forward to seeing your project; I really want the viewers to drive the content of this channel. You guys come up with challenges that I could never invent for myself!
I've made dozens of molds and watched probably hundreds of molding/casting videos. I feel like this video has addressed most of the issues I have encountered. Love the channel, looks like I have a lot more videos to watch. Thank you!
Hey good morning, super grateful for your videos Rob! Find myself constantly referring back to them as a bit of a base source for moulding and mould making! Have a good day !
Your videos are yet another reason I like Fridays! I’m curious to see how long the “hardest project” title will last. Thanks for all the knowledge you share.
Pretty sure the next project in line is going to replace it. Actually, the next four projects in line are all miserably hard to mold. Who’s idea was this anyway? 😳😃😃
Really enjoyed this video. Trying to learn how to make a mold to recreate the ring posts for a 1986 WWF LJN Wrestling Superstars Bendies Cage Match Challenge Ring for a friend and this was just so incredibly informative. Really appreciate the attention to detail.
First video I've watched a video of yours, subscribed about quarter of the way through. I like the way you work and the mentality behind your choices of how/why you do things. Enjoyable to watch also.
Hi, i am trying to work out how to make a two part wax positive of a oyster mushroom. I have tried to spray a resist and build clay around the cap area of the mushroom, and then pour silicone, then flip when set and remove clay and cast the second half of the mold. Unfortunately i'm struggling build the clay around the mushroom without distortion of the mushroom in the process. Wondering if you had any tips?? thanks!
Hi Robert, love your videos! Have you ever try a mold box with LEGO? I found FANTASTIC! There are some RUclips videos from makers doing this. You must try. Thank you for sharing so much information about casting.
Hi , awesome video. I would like to make an induction manifold using silicone rubber to form the complex bends. What I had in mind was to make 6 silicone rubber sausages at 18 inches (457mm) long and 1.29921 inches (33mm) diameter with a heavy gauge fencing wire in the centre so that when removed from the tubing and adapted to fit the manifold it will retain the curves and bends required ready for the fibre glass split mold. The second part I’m guessing is to remove the silicone rubber from the split mold and reassemble and fill with Liquid Metal then remove the split mold and layer up with carbon fibre and then after curing melt the liquid metal out of the carbon fibre. Would love to see this process and of course would love any changes and input. Regards Noel
Thanks for posting such detailed vids. Really helpful. So, you know when you said "this I the most important step" well, my two mold halfs bonded last night. :( sad morning. Either I used the wrong stuff or didn't use enough. Thanks for sharing your material list.
Hi. How are you? I am from Saudi Arabia. I am very impressed with your work and learning from it I made a two-part silicon template, but I had a problem. As the wax model dried out, it became very clear where to fill. When I tried to get rid of excess wax, the shape didn't look good.
Last weekend I tried my first silicone project. I wanted to make a silicone mat for my electronics workbench. I did get a mat but because I mis-calculated the amount of silicone needed it didn't quite fill the mold which was the lid from a plastic tote from Home Depot. Yesterday it occurred to me that I could create a drawer organizer for the kitchen drawer that holds our cutlery. Does anyone know of a video that I could watch to prepare for this project. Also a better way of calculating the amount of material needed? Would MDF be a good material to use for the mold?
I'm Astonished about what you did there, A really nice job! I'm actually trying to figure out how to mold a piece from my car that is reducing into bits due to it's old age and buying a new one is costly and wouldn't be resist enough if it's the same material. But with your video I might found the solution on how to proceed and that could be really awesome. Cheers
I sort of wonder why someone who has that part.. won't just print more. I can't imagine 3D resin printing more parts would be more expensive than having a mold made, the work that goes into using it, etc, etc.
if you wanted cut lines around side get long block of wood about 2cm wide x 15 cm long cut bit out middle slide in razer blade then set high of the blade with thin bit wood get high up or down to high of object then slide the object a long the blade get clean cut. get EVA 50 x 50cm Interlock Foam Mats Solid Black Pk4 you cut any size then put rubberbands on will not put mold out wack.
i want to cast a large lens from the rear of a st1300 motorbike.with something so wide whats to stop the top mould from flexing and sinking into the lower mould warping the shape and reducing the thickness of the cast. should i use a more solid mould material or can i add wood dowels to the top mould to prevent it flexing? should i add multiple pour points and how do i calculate how much resin to use?
Robert, I was at a production prototype shop years ago and they used the cut mold method as well. A couple of different methods they used could be interesting to you. 1. They used clear silicone so that they could see the pattern as they cut it out. 2. They used much thicker boarder walls to support the mold haves. This allowed them to use packing tape to join the molds before the pour. Some of their molds were the size of a small refrigerator. 3. To locate a perfect parting line on flat faces: They used 3M Scotch tape. They'd place the tape on the flat edge and have a good 1/4 inch flare sticking out into the cut area. They'd mark the tape flare with a black Sharpie so it could be seen in the clear silicone. The silicone doesn't stick to the tape so at that point you will get a flash, but you'll have a perfectly placed parting line. This trick does change the shape of the pattern by the thickness of the tape, which is about .0015 inches, so it is not a concern to most customers.
Oh man Robert, you are literally molding my mind with your priceless knowledge. Fantastic execution in video in combination with your playful attitude. Normally I would think that 30 minutes (31:55!) is an eternity in youtube, but I was glued to the screen from start to finish. I keep my fingers crossed that you have a vase in your pipeline :) Anyways thank you for sharing so openly. My warmest greetings from Denmark.
MU Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it. My mother is Swedish and my daughter lives there now. I have been to Copenhagen but have not had the opportunity to travel around in Denmark. I hope that us disease ridden Americans will be allowed travel back to Europe sometime soon!
Very interesting hobby and top presentation!! I would like to make a copy of a Viton ring for a bread oven (nor available anymore). It should resist 250°C for hours. Any suggestions for making the mold and the materail for the replacement ring is very wellcome. Thanks
I have a question that I could use your expertise, Robert. I have, thus far, had two silicone molds fail on me, both of which were produced for a small part using a similar method shown in this video: where a part is laid flat, and a thin, skim layer is used to create a seal before the deeper, 2nd pour of silicone. For me, the part lays flush on foam-core board. My molds are all made from foam-core (which could be an issue; don't know...), and I have had a good amount of success prior, but lately, I cannot identify what the heck is going on! The issue is that the part somehow shifts in the silicone at some point in time within the pressure pot. During both silicone pours, the part is 100% flush on the floor of the mold box. All seems well. The mold is level in the pressure pot as well. However, pulling the mold out of the pot, inspection reveals the part has raised up into the silicone somehow. About 3-5mm tilt, or "sucking back" of the part occurs. Ever encounter anything like this? Initially I thought it was air entrapment under the part, but there are no air pockets in my case. And by rewatching this video, your gray box part has a HUGE air pocket in it, and apparently it did not cause an issue. Maybe the foam-board is compressing and distorting in the pressure pot?
Your great. Do you have any tutorials on how to make a mold of a small bottle. The neck is extremely tiny, so I can’t pour silicone inside, couldn’t get it out. I guess there’s no way to have an hollow bottle, I’ll need to drill and maybe put a straw in the center. I don’t know. Do you have any suggestions? I’d send you a picture of it if I could.
You could rotational mold it. That would make it hollow but it’s difficult to control the wall thickness evenly. And clear resins are harder to rotate with than opaque resins.
Absolutely love your channel brother 😂💪🏻 interesting video. These circles have bigger purpose than what you see at first sight 🤯🤯🤯👍🏻 I would very much like to ask some advice on a certain mold I’m creating is there anyways I can contact you direct? Email maybe? 💪🏻❤️❤️
I live in Hawaii and cannot ship aerosols here. Do you have any experience or recommendations for mold release agents that are not in a pressurized can? I saw that Silpak offers MR-150 in gallon containers. I have access to preval sprayers and might try that.
Can you do a video on a two piece mold revolver pistol grip? And how to add a medallion when molding the grips. If you need a set of grips I would be happy to mail you some if I can buy the mold when you are done. This was a Great video also. Thanks for your consideration. Marvin
A pistol grip should be a simple enough mold to make. The medallion would be cast as a separate piece. I do not do weapon parts (nor paraphernalia or adult objects) on my channel because they are a red flag for many advertisers.
Hello Robert, love watching your projects. Watched you before, but this time I was totally intrigued! I have a project I've been trying to solve and need some help. Only problem is I am working on a shoe sting bucket. Need your help.
Robert… I love you videos… I’m a religious watcher. I have a problem and need help. I made a two part mold and it looks perfect from the inside. Once I cast resin in the pressure pot there’s always on side or the other that had a large bubble inclusion that’s inches long. It switches side from cast to cast, so it’s not the mold. Is the pressure pot squeezing air from within the outside portion of the mold into the edges? How can I avoid this?
Hey so I'm hoping you can make me a 2 piece mold for a fishing weight in which I'm planning to put a light in and have a 2 gauge wire run straight through.. any way you would be able to tackle that and I buy the mold from you..
How absolutely fascinating!!!! I had no idea there was such a long and complex process to make a 2 piece mold!! I thought I could just make a whole complete mold, cut it in half, and it would work (spoiler alert: it didn't. I'm still trying to scrape hardened clay out of my microwave oven. This is what I get for trying to make a silicone rubber mold with no experience, all because autism demands equality in things I make and I would probably lose my mind trying to sculpt 4 paws by hand and get them all looking the same, haha. The clay leaked because the silicone mold deformed from the rubber bands and I didn't noticed until too late)
A silicone rubber should have a material data sheet that will tell you the specific gravity of the rubber. That number is how much more of rubber weighs than water. Calculate the volume of your mold in cubic millimeters then look up the weight of water in a cubic millimeter and multiply that number times the specific gravity of the rubber. That would tell you how much more rubber you need to mix up by weight. You must remember to add extra rubber for waste. Some of the rubber is wasted because of sticking to the container and the mixing blade.
I have never done foundry work. The only metal casting I have done is low temperature and silver jewelry. Casting steel is way outside of my field of expertise.
Just watching one of your videos has given me a large book of information. Your ability to show why and why not to do a particular step, and show it clearly, is a gift. Thank you for your patience, interest, and time.
Have you tried using paintable caulk to seal up the gaps and then beeswax over top of it? Beeswax should adhere to the paintable caulk? the caulk should be able to fill those small gaps
I would be afraid the calk would be too hard to remove or make the mold box difficult to take apart. But you could always experiment with it to see if it works for you
Que bonito ver esa preciosa energia en tu mirada. Me encanta ver personas de tu edad y con un gran canal. Maravilloso!! How nice to see that precious energy in your eyes. I love seeing people your age and with a great channel. Marvelous!!
Hi there I need to make a box out of plastic how can I make mold and what type of metal should I use because plastic will be very hot right when I pour it.
This is some hardcore mold casting. I was listening to a spotify playlist containing the epic movie score "Once Upon a Time in the West" composed by Ennio Morricone, from the 1968 western film of the same name, while you were taking apart the second part of the cast. And when I saw how the mold came out... Forget about it! Epic moment :) Great content!
Wow. I am learning so much. I am working on some very small bookshelves and I thought I needed to figure out how to make them with an open-back mold but this kind of mold will be actually be easier as far as clean up goes. Loving these videos.
Hi Connie, I have not done a large project on the channel because of time constraints. Ideally I try to complete a project in one video episode. No project should occupy more than two episodes. That is because the views drop off dramatically with each successive episode. In my career I’ve done life-size figurines for casinos, restaurants and public sculpture. The process for making them is different than it is for small works. They are usually two-piece blanket and mother molds that are hand laid up. The parting line is clay up, not cut. And the figures are cast in fiberglass or rotationally molded in resin. I have never done statuary in concrete or hydrostone materials. On my channel the closest I have come to demonstrate it the process is the Pug Mug series. It was 4 episodes beginning with this one: ruclips.net/video/G3L0BTNr4xI/видео.html
@Robert I have a cast of a mask and it went pretty okay. But my issue is after painting with my airbrush and clear coating is that the outer clear layer keeps going tacky randomly. I can't reproduce the effects with heat, cold, moisture and I have no idea what's going on. Save my project that's been sat on a shelf for a year! Help me figure out where I went wrong and fix it?
Here is a link to a downloadable PDF file with a list of the rubber, resins and waxes I use in my videos:
www.dropbox.com/s/kz6mhmf7v5vpy7l/Material%20and%20Suppliers.pdf?dl=0
awesome thank you!
btw, Ive heard you can use talcum powder as a parting agent, is that true? Does any powder work?
@@Aconspiracyofravens1 It depends on the materials you are trying to keep apart. It is always best to test small samples to see what works with the materials you are using.
@@RobertTolone have you ever used it?
@@Aconspiracyofravens1 I use it for making sculpture wax. I have never used it as a parting agent.
I'm not making any molds, but I'm watching just in case I do.
I got a angel sitting how do you make a mold for it it's about 7" high
😅same
Same😂
Robert, part one of the mold making was amazing! You can think out of the box when it comes to each project. I loved how you handled my project. I’m pretty meticulous when it comes to my model work and I can see from the video, you are as well. Thank you for the care and determination you show on each project you do. I can’t wait to see part two!
I just love the passion! ...................... You may be up at 2.30AM making moulds, doesn't stop me from being up at 3.00AM watching you! ; )
Actually, that's when I do my best work, in the middle of the night!
TURK
I love that u can understand everything he says. Most people that do these videos either talk too low or u can't understand them. He also knows what he is talking about. I just found him looking for silicone mold making. I finally found someone who knows what he is talking about. Thanks Robert
Thanks for watching Mary! I appreciate your nice comment.
You sir are the Bob Ross of mold making! Love your attitude
I was thinking the same thing
I don’t quite know how I got down this rabbit hole but this guy is my new favourite human. He’s so fun to watch.
If there was a job opening in a shop with this guy I’d be there!!!! What a joy it was to watch this whole process.
I love love love this channel, I'm just here waiting for you to blow up to be as big as any of the craft youtubers.
It's impressive the amount of quality you already have in sound recording, multiple cameras, visuals, lighting, editing, and not to mention craft skill.
The quality here is of a 100k+ channel and I was surprised to see you at only 2.7k.
I do have a project I'm curious on what your approach would be, but I'll think about sending that into you some other time.
Thanks so much for your comment! I put a ridiculous amount of time each week into my videos but it’s a lot of fun and the viewers make it all worthwhile. Looking forward to seeing your project; I really want the viewers to drive the content of this channel. You guys come up with challenges that I could never invent for myself!
I've made dozens of molds and watched probably hundreds of molding/casting videos. I feel like this video has addressed most of the issues I have encountered. Love the channel, looks like I have a lot more videos to watch. Thank you!
Thanks for watching Drew!
@@RobertTolonewhich silicon rubber used in reny shoose
Only dozed off once for like a min or two. Your a fabulous teacher!!
I can't thank you enough for your patience and visual instruction you are definitely a master and I am so appreciative thank you
10:30 I just burnt the crap out of myself LOL ! Instructional video !
Hey good morning, super grateful for your videos Rob! Find myself constantly referring back to them as a bit of a base source for moulding and mould making! Have a good day !
Agradeço muito aos seus conteúdos, sou do Brasil e estou aprendendo muito com o senhor, continue!!!
better to count in the object i counted 20. :P
Your videos are yet another reason I like Fridays! I’m curious to see how long the “hardest project” title will last. Thanks for all the knowledge you share.
Pretty sure the next project in line is going to replace it. Actually, the next four projects in line are all miserably hard to mold. Who’s idea was this anyway? 😳😃😃
Really enjoyed this video. Trying to learn how to make a mold to recreate the ring posts for a 1986 WWF LJN Wrestling Superstars Bendies Cage Match Challenge Ring for a friend and this was just so incredibly informative. Really appreciate the attention to detail.
First video I've watched a video of yours, subscribed about quarter of the way through. I like the way you work and the mentality behind your choices of how/why you do things. Enjoyable to watch also.
Held my breath when you were removing the model and revealing the mold haha! Excellent execution!! It looks so beautiful 😀
ElysiaTj my favorite part!
ElysiaTj Hahaha - I’m always holding my breath when I open a mold!
Hi, i am trying to work out how to make a two part wax positive of a oyster mushroom. I have tried to spray a resist and build clay around the cap area of the mushroom, and then pour silicone, then flip when set and remove clay and cast the second half of the mold. Unfortunately i'm struggling build the clay around the mushroom without distortion of the mushroom in the process. Wondering if you had any tips?? thanks!
Hi Robert, love your videos! Have you ever try a mold box with LEGO? I found FANTASTIC! There are some RUclips videos from makers doing this. You must try. Thank you for sharing so much information about casting.
Hi , awesome video. I would like to make an induction manifold using silicone rubber to form the complex bends. What I had in mind was to make 6 silicone rubber sausages at 18 inches (457mm) long and 1.29921 inches (33mm) diameter with a heavy gauge fencing wire in the centre so that when removed from the tubing and adapted to fit the manifold it will retain the curves and bends required ready for the fibre glass split mold. The second part I’m guessing is to remove the silicone rubber from the split mold and reassemble and fill with Liquid Metal then remove the split mold and layer up with carbon fibre and then after curing melt the liquid metal out of the carbon fibre. Would love to see this process and of course would love any changes and input. Regards Noel
Thank you Robert for your amazing explanations!
Keep up the great job!
Greetings from Iraq 🌷
"I'm only half done" haha
Thanks for posting such detailed vids. Really helpful.
So, you know when you said "this I the most important step" well, my two mold halfs bonded last night. :( sad morning. Either I used the wrong stuff or didn't use enough. Thanks for sharing your material list.
Hi. How are you? I am from Saudi Arabia. I am very impressed with your work and learning from it
I made a two-part silicon template, but I had a problem. As the wax model dried out, it became very clear where to fill. When I tried to get rid of excess wax, the shape didn't look good.
Last weekend I tried my first silicone project. I wanted to make a silicone mat for my electronics workbench. I did get a mat but because I mis-calculated the amount of silicone needed it didn't quite fill the mold which was the lid from a plastic tote from Home Depot. Yesterday it occurred to me that I could create a drawer organizer for the kitchen drawer that holds our cutlery. Does anyone know of a video that I could watch to prepare for this project. Also a better way of calculating the amount of material needed? Would MDF be a good material to use for the mold?
I'm Astonished about what you did there, A really nice job!
I'm actually trying to figure out how to mold a piece from my car that is reducing into bits due to it's old age and buying a new one is costly and wouldn't be resist enough if it's the same material.
But with your video I might found the solution on how to proceed and that could be really awesome.
Cheers
Thanks for teaching, Kind regards from Mexico.
I'm a first time viewer to your channel. Loving your work. You have a new subscriber.
I like your method of making registration dots I may have to steal that method!
I sort of wonder why someone who has that part.. won't just print more. I can't imagine 3D resin printing more parts would be more expensive than having a mold made, the work that goes into using it, etc, etc.
You are awesome!!! Thanks for a great channel 🙏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👍🏽
Can you do a tutorial on the bees wax and the machine you use to "weld" the funnels and what not to the project?
I have not done a video just on beeswax but I frequently use it in my videos about making the molds. The wax tool is a Foredom wax carving pen.
if you wanted cut lines around side get long block of wood about 2cm wide x 15 cm long cut bit out middle slide in razer blade then set high of the blade with thin bit wood get high up or down to high of object then slide the object a long the blade get clean cut. get EVA 50 x 50cm Interlock Foam Mats Solid Black Pk4 you cut any size then put rubberbands on will not put mold out wack.
Thank you for keeping your mistakes in your video. It's what makes you more than a master
Awesome video. This has helped me understand what I need to do for a mold I will be making very soon.
Stumbled on the channel and love it and your videos. What is “the pot” and what are those rectangular metal boxes behind you?
Why not leave it in the wood frame? No worries about warpage, just compressive holding the two halves together.
i want to cast a large lens from the rear of a st1300 motorbike.with something so wide whats to stop the top mould from flexing and sinking into the lower mould warping the shape and reducing the thickness of the cast. should i use a more solid mould material or can i add wood dowels to the top mould to prevent it flexing? should i add multiple pour points and how do i calculate how much resin to use?
19 buttons!
I really need help making a hollow porcelain head mould without using the spinning thing 🙃
The twinkle in your eyes as you work reminds me of the same twinkle in Adam Savage’s eyes.
10:10 Gameboy
This methode of casting is perfect for hollow objects.
Hi, could you help me? I need to create a silicone mold from a flexible silicone model. How do I do this without distorting my model?
You are the Bob Ross of mold making
Without the hair 😳😭 😀
I want to make a silicone mold of a diecast school bus. Can anyone help point me in the right direction?
how can i make a square cut in bottom from this kind mould?.....
You can pour down a stick into your mold too, this is a chemist trick to pour very accurately lile you tried to do with the half full cup of resin.
Yes, it certain situations that could be very helpful. Thanks!
THANK
That's not a pony. That's obviously a unicorn.
You said the shape of the positive makes it a good idea to split your pour spout into two separate contact points. Why is that?
For tightbond you should wet one surface with water
What if i have a deep box ?
Cause the rubber inside it moves when i cast it
How can I make a silicone mold of a glass egg trinket box?
That's a great job!
It was a great lesson for me!
Thank you~!
I did not know Robert Duvall was a Master mold maker
Fantastic! Thanks for posting
Getting close to 100k followers!
Hi how to make a two parts molds please?
Thank you
Robert, I was at a production prototype shop years ago and they used the cut mold method as well. A couple of different methods they used could be interesting to you.
1. They used clear silicone so that they could see the pattern as they cut it out.
2. They used much thicker boarder walls to support the mold haves. This allowed them to use packing tape to join the molds before the pour. Some of their molds were the size of a small refrigerator.
3. To locate a perfect parting line on flat faces: They used 3M Scotch tape. They'd place the tape on the flat edge and have a good 1/4 inch flare sticking out into the cut area. They'd mark the tape flare with a black Sharpie so it could be seen in the clear silicone. The silicone doesn't stick to the tape so at that point you will get a flash, but you'll have a perfectly placed parting line. This trick does change the shape of the pattern by the thickness of the tape, which is about .0015 inches, so it is not a concern to most customers.
Pretty interesting, thanks!
Oh man Robert, you are literally molding my mind with your priceless knowledge. Fantastic execution in video in combination with your playful attitude. Normally I would think that 30 minutes (31:55!) is an eternity in youtube, but I was glued to the screen from start to finish. I keep my fingers crossed that you have a vase in your pipeline :) Anyways thank you for sharing so openly. My warmest greetings from Denmark.
MU Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it. My mother is Swedish and my daughter lives there now. I have been to Copenhagen but have not had the opportunity to travel around in Denmark. I hope that us disease ridden Americans will be allowed travel back to Europe sometime soon!
Very interesting hobby and top presentation!!
I would like to make a copy of a Viton ring for a bread oven (nor available anymore). It should resist 250°C for hours. Any suggestions for making the mold and the materail for the replacement ring is very wellcome. Thanks
A high-temperature-tolerant platinum rubber should work fine.
I have a question that I could use your expertise, Robert. I have, thus far, had two silicone molds fail on me, both of which were produced for a small part using a similar method shown in this video: where a part is laid flat, and a thin, skim layer is used to create a seal before the deeper, 2nd pour of silicone. For me, the part lays flush on foam-core board. My molds are all made from foam-core (which could be an issue; don't know...), and I have had a good amount of success prior, but lately, I cannot identify what the heck is going on! The issue is that the part somehow shifts in the silicone at some point in time within the pressure pot. During both silicone pours, the part is 100% flush on the floor of the mold box. All seems well. The mold is level in the pressure pot as well. However, pulling the mold out of the pot, inspection reveals the part has raised up into the silicone somehow. About 3-5mm tilt, or "sucking back" of the part occurs. Ever encounter anything like this? Initially I thought it was air entrapment under the part, but there are no air pockets in my case. And by rewatching this video, your gray box part has a HUGE air pocket in it, and apparently it did not cause an issue. Maybe the foam-board is compressing and distorting in the pressure pot?
Yes, putting foam core in a pressure pot it is likely crushing or distorting. I never pressure cure my molds.
20
Who's finger was that on the table saw ?
I love it when you sing :)
Most people beg me to stop! 😄😄😭
@@RobertTolone please don't stop :)
Perfect video,may God bless you,please I want you to make pelton bucket mold for me, how much will cost.Thank you
Send photos to me at roberttolone@yahoo.com.
Love this! The buttons. The box, sliced in half. Can’t wait for next episode!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Your great. Do you have any tutorials on how to make a mold of a small bottle. The neck is extremely tiny, so I can’t pour silicone inside, couldn’t get it out. I guess there’s no way to have an hollow bottle, I’ll need to drill and maybe put a straw in the center. I don’t know. Do you have any suggestions? I’d send you a picture of it if I could.
You could rotational mold it. That would make it hollow but it’s difficult to control the wall thickness evenly. And clear resins are harder to rotate with than opaque resins.
Absolutely love your channel brother 😂💪🏻 interesting video. These circles have bigger purpose than what you see at first sight 🤯🤯🤯👍🏻 I would very much like to ask some advice on a certain mold I’m creating is there anyways I can contact you direct? Email maybe? 💪🏻❤️❤️
I live in Hawaii and cannot ship aerosols here. Do you have any experience or recommendations for mold release agents that are not in a pressurized can? I saw that Silpak offers MR-150 in gallon containers. I have access to preval sprayers and might try that.
When we do large molds we use MR-150 in a spray gun. Make very light coats and it works well.
Can you do a video on a two piece mold revolver pistol grip?
And how to add a medallion when molding the grips. If you need a set of grips I would be happy to mail you some if I can buy the mold when you are done.
This was a Great video also.
Thanks for your consideration.
Marvin
A pistol grip should be a simple enough mold to make. The medallion would be cast as a separate piece. I do not do weapon parts (nor paraphernalia or adult objects) on my channel because they are a red flag for many advertisers.
Thank you that was smart so much easier
please never stop Robert, NEVER!!! Keep challenging yourself. You have taught me A LOT!
Hello Robert, love watching your projects. Watched you before, but this time I was totally intrigued! I have a project I've been trying to solve and need some help. Only problem is I am working on a shoe sting bucket. Need your help.
Robert… I love you videos… I’m a religious watcher. I have a problem and need help. I made a two part mold and it looks perfect from the inside. Once I cast resin in the pressure pot there’s always on side or the other that had a large bubble inclusion that’s inches long. It switches side from cast to cast, so it’s not the mold. Is the pressure pot squeezing air from within the outside portion of the mold into the edges? How can I avoid this?
Hard to tell without seeing the mold and castings. Send some pics to roberttolone@yahoo.com
Hey so I'm hoping you can make me a 2 piece mold for a fishing weight in which I'm planning to put a light in and have a 2 gauge wire run straight through.. any way you would be able to tackle that and I buy the mold from you..
Send pics to me at roberttolone@yahoo.com
How absolutely fascinating!!!! I had no idea there was such a long and complex process to make a 2 piece mold!! I thought I could just make a whole complete mold, cut it in half, and it would work (spoiler alert: it didn't. I'm still trying to scrape hardened clay out of my microwave oven. This is what I get for trying to make a silicone rubber mold with no experience, all because autism demands equality in things I make and I would probably lose my mind trying to sculpt 4 paws by hand and get them all looking the same, haha. The clay leaked because the silicone mold deformed from the rubber bands and I didn't noticed until too late)
Hi Robert, I’ve been trying to make a mold so I can make a silicone doll. Is there anyway you can help me out? Thank you
Send pics of your project to me at roberttolone@yahoo.com
Hi sir I'm from india. 2'x2' 8mm how much kg silicon liquid need ? Kindly reply me sir
A silicone rubber should have a material data sheet that will tell you the specific gravity of the rubber. That number is how much more of rubber weighs than water. Calculate the volume of your mold in cubic millimeters then look up the weight of water in a cubic millimeter and multiply that number times the specific gravity of the rubber. That would tell you how much more rubber you need to mix up by weight. You must remember to add extra rubber for waste. Some of the rubber is wasted because of sticking to the container and the mixing blade.
How would you cast steel ? Without damaging your furnace and whatever is being heated up
I have never done foundry work. The only metal casting I have done is low temperature and silver jewelry. Casting steel is way outside of my field of expertise.
Just watching one of your videos has given me a large book of information.
Your ability to show why and why not to do a particular step, and show it clearly, is a gift.
Thank you for your patience, interest, and time.
Hello from the UK - I really appreciate your videos and I'm learning a lot from watching you work. Thanks for sharing!
Have you tried using paintable caulk to seal up the gaps and then beeswax over top of it? Beeswax should adhere to the paintable caulk? the caulk should be able to fill those small gaps
I would be afraid the calk would be too hard to remove or make the mold box difficult to take apart. But you could always experiment with it to see if it works for you
Que bonito ver esa preciosa energia en tu mirada. Me encanta ver personas de tu edad y con un gran canal. Maravilloso!! How nice to see that precious energy in your eyes. I love seeing people your age and with a great channel. Marvelous!!
Gracias por tu amable
Thank you so much. Keep the great work.
Thanks for all your nice comments!
Hi there I need to make a box out of plastic how can I make mold and what type of metal should I use because plastic will be very hot right when I pour it.
Are you injection molding the box?
This is some hardcore mold casting.
I was listening to a spotify playlist containing the epic movie score "Once Upon a Time in the West" composed by Ennio Morricone, from the 1968 western film of the same name, while you were taking apart the second part of the cast.
And when I saw how the mold came out... Forget about it! Epic moment :)
Great content!
Awesome once again
Wow. I am learning so much. I am working on some very small bookshelves and I thought I needed to figure out how to make them with an open-back mold but this kind of mold will be actually be easier as far as clean up goes. Loving these videos.
Thanks Christian. Thin parts are always a challenge for the silicone molding process.
Your presentation style is so accessible, informative and engaging. Thanks for these videos.
Amazing expertise! Thanks for such content! 😍
... How can you make a mold of something challenging like a squid.. can a squid or octopus be done with one mold.
Robert do you ever do large projects? What part of the country are you in? I have a 4 foot statue of the Blessed Mother - connie schneider
Hi Connie, I have not done a large project on the channel because of time constraints. Ideally I try to complete a project in one video episode. No project should occupy more than two episodes. That is because the views drop off dramatically with each successive episode. In my career I’ve done life-size figurines for casinos, restaurants and public sculpture. The process for making them is different than it is for small works. They are usually two-piece blanket and mother molds that are hand laid up. The parting line is clay up, not cut. And the figures are cast in fiberglass or rotationally molded in resin. I have never done statuary in concrete or hydrostone materials. On my channel the closest I have come to demonstrate it the process is the Pug Mug series. It was 4 episodes beginning with this one: ruclips.net/video/G3L0BTNr4xI/видео.html
Excellent tutorial mr Robert,
One question - would this type of mold be suitable for wax injection To make wax duplicates for investment casting?
It depends on how much pressure you inject the wax at. My molds fill with gravity so they don’t require much holding force to keep them closed.
@@RobertTolone thanks for the reply
@Robert I have a cast of a mask and it went pretty okay. But my issue is after painting with my airbrush and clear coating is that the outer clear layer keeps going tacky randomly. I can't reproduce the effects with heat, cold, moisture and I have no idea what's going on. Save my project that's been sat on a shelf for a year! Help me figure out where I went wrong and fix it?
Robert, Robert never change I loved this video Your amazing and very funny
👏🏽🏆Great explanation of the different use cases