This is so freaking cool, I’m a DVET, about 98% bed bound ,I miss building engines,cars and going fast..being on disability sucks, but paying to support this channel is well worth it..
How fast do you want to go depends on how much money you got. How you make a small fortune in racing is to start with a large fortune and work your way down.
You can have all the money in the world that doesn't make you go fast consistently that's why there's people with the biggest budgets imaginable not winning championships every year.. yes it takes a lot of money but that's only the start... That just gets you to the starting line...
He is giving back by educating the next generation of engine builders with this content and delivery method. It also is Marketing for him. So it is a win win situation. Have you noticed most high end engine builders (not tuners) have grey hair? We’ve lost quite a few long time builders in the last few years. Also notice his employees are young people who love the business and want to learn. Engine building isn’t something you learn in a book at University or Trade School, you got to be hands on.
13:00 the only thing keeping the top half of the block from spliting like a piece of firewood is the head. All that loading I'm impressed that it holds itself together.
I had one of the very first blown SRT10’s in Houston, and yes procharger..made 810 rwhp..beast , I used to scare the crap out of friends who had bolt on NA,srt10’s that thought their trucks where fast, lol.l
Holy chit man. That's alot of work. If you want to push the limit I guess this is what you have to do. Damn near re-engineering that sucker. I bet you feel a little bit spoiled now because that equipment you have is the chit. Hopefully you know what I mean by that. The repeatability of that equipment is insane. You deserve it sir because you have had a life long journey to get here Mr. Morris. I have been watching your content for a while now and I learn alot from you guys. It's so hard to keep up with new designs and technology. Great job guys.
The craziest part to me is using Permatex ultra black for sleeve inserts. I never knew that was something considered. I am jealous of all the machinery and process. I wish I could do that to my garage.
I’ve been fascinated by builders chasing horsepower since I was a kid. I took another path as a welder and machinist in the automotive industry ( tool and die shops). I appreciate your videos. It lets me travel a path no longer available to me. One shop I worked in had Aline boring machine that was huge. Line bored many diesel blocks there. Again thanks for the videos!
Dang Brother, you sir are reinventing the wheel here with common sense, out of the box creativity!!!! I love your content so much! What the OEM engineers could learn from your processes.... just amazing!
Thank your Steve, pretty cool to see the extent you take to build an almost bullet proof engine for your costumers, may take lots of money but definitely worth the effort and time you put into them 😎👍
We miss Dewey! 🐕 Awesome video! I love watching all the machine work time lapse clips! There is just nothing better than seeing nice clean parts getting perfect, new, shiny, new surfaces being machined! As you like to say Steve, “I love the shiny! Must touch the shiny!”
When I got done building my motorcycle I put a really nice shiny silver paint job on it and it got all kinds of attention... But, I didn't put a heel for adhesion on the base coat before the clear and all the clear coat eventually pealed off leaving just a dull grey behind. Then for some reason nobody ever even looked at the bike. So this time around I did er up real good, I put on 3 coats of self-etching primer, 3 coats of simulated chrome, 3 coats of silver glitter, 3 coats of glitter sealer, 27 coats of clear, then put on 3 coats of two part hardener/clear coat. All with a steel wooled heel in between every coat except between the glitter and the glitter sealer, and sealer and the first 5 coats of clear... You aught to see the attention it gets now. Haha It's almost as if I conducted my own experimentation on the general public without them even knowing about it. Lol😂
This is amazing to watch. From zero material to just super thick and watching the sleeves just slide in. Pressure to watch. So satisfying. I wish I had the money for one of your engines. Hell I would be happy with just a short block. Sheeeesh
Steve - there's a video showing the sleeve install being done wrong over on the Hagerty channels build of a Straight Eight, where they were hammered in by force, cracking the the cast iron liners. Seeing your team here heat the block and freeze the liners, doing it the right way, and then the sleeves just sliding in to position, is amazingly useful
Just a lil pro tip on your welding let the post flow run its cycle before you move the torch from your weld .. when you just yank it away as soon as you’re done it takes the gas coverage away from your tungsten while it’s still very hot and will contaminate the tungsten and then give you dirty starts from that point on
I'm pretty sure the welding clip you seen inserted here of the jackets being filled, was Chris Razor welding lol... while I know that's the norm, if Chris is doing something different, I'd lean towards him being the expert 😅
@@johnnygeorgopoulos4072 contaminating your tungsten is a new technique lol 👍🏻 doesn’t matter how long someone’s been welding they’re not impervious to mistakes or bad habits
I wish my gramps was still around to watch the videos I find today. He raced dirt circle track from sometime in the 50's to 1976, old school motorhead. New Egypt Speedway would be his home track to give some perspective. He would be blown away by the shit we've come up with since then.
M code to send table to the middle, and you'll find a setting in your cam to center on the part, so the vice comes to the door, rather than the G53 x0.
Nice to see the ultra black as a sleeve sealant, I wondered what you'd use. The Liquid N2 doesn't cause issues with it? I felt the buttpucker moment when the last sleeve didn't play nice, till it just slid in. Priceless. Thanks all!
I would have thought you'd use something like a Loctite anaerobic sealer... The more you know it must not matter too much because of how accurate the machining is..
Crank the feed rate up to 250 to 300 ipm on that aluminum 1/2 in endmills and all chamfer tools I run a vf4 at work as well. Love your stuff man. Much love from Missouri
I worked at a defense contractor and we used a mixture of dry ice & alcohol to freeze things like bushings and sleeves. Is it better or cheaper I don't know but it might be another method that would work for some application. I think it might at least be more available than nitrogen in a pinch.
On a Porsche 996 and 997.1 Turbo (Mezger) engine with removable sleeves, if you don't remove them when surfacing the cylinder top and you don't have the sleeves stick up a little, you will loose pressure when under boost. A customer came in with that problem and we fixed it with new sleeves.
Time 750 Wader passages ( Steve Morris ) The Kerbal rocket is going to the Mun , fly safe. ( Scott Manley ) Shatner esk . . . pauses ( Paul Harrell ) All part of the character of a channel, keep it coming.
Thank you again professor.. Keep these classes coming ...I have a few !5 yo's across the country, via my channel, that i have watching your channel... I am so happy i met you via Cleetus. Happy New Year...
How does the air get out of the block? All OE head gaskets have holes above the bores somewhere to allow air to pass into the heads and out of the engine.
With the water transfer towards the end if you had real concern you could drop something like a hollow dowel pin in those connection points that way they don't bow out sideways
Very cool look at the process. I have a question about sleeve material- are there different grades of material used for sleeves? Are they all cast iron, or is steel sometimes used? I'd appreciate any education you can offer on this
Super cool video!!! I do a bit of light machining work, lath, end mill. So cool see how much it takes to build, BIG drive and drag horse power!!! Very cool stuff!!! SME!! Is the best of the best!!
Holy duty cycle Batman..! Welding the former holes for water sounded like one of those China welding processes you see on tik tok...one continuous arc with some filler rod thrown in. Thats pretty crazy!
couldn't you fill in that raw aluminum between the bores(Tig Weld some material), to make the holes in the mating walls it less jagged? Would that "jaggedness" be a source of fracture and cracking?
I didn’t see Dewey inspecting your your work! Someone’s going to get fired. lol! I didn’t realize you cut that much out of the block. I see why the sleeve is like it is now. Thank you for sharing. I didn’t see Dewey ok on this.
After more or less ignoring drag racing while I raised my family. I am AMAZED at the progress in the hp wars. Nitro cars had just gone from 4000 hp to around 6000. Now you are getting 4000. even 5000 hp from turbo engines. AMAZING. The larger cam diameters help the valve trains go high rpm
Great work, the power of CNC machines.... just my thoughts, welding all first, bore cam tunnel, fit sleeves, then fit main caps, line bore mains, then finish with line honing cam and main tunnel...line honing at the end to ensure all the other processes don't move block around...??/
those sleeves have some impressive wall thicknes in the top part seen a company put in sleepes in an article in hot rod magazine , cannot remember wat engine but can remember that they basicly cut the original cilinders out of the block by cutting the deck and the crankcase and pulled all the inside structure out of the block still wondering how they kept the cilinderbanks from splitting off the crankcase (probably bolted the heads to the main bearings ) takes a lot of figuring out to get a bigger / stronger wall and still have enough strength left in the block
Question: so the sleeves inserted cold thus expanding after, with rtv, is enough to seal the now opened water jackets, (as seen @17:05)? I seen the builder add rtv to the deck surface and on the bottom ledge in the cylinder bore (@18:06) before inserting the sleeve. I know if there was a problem doing this they wouldnt do it, im just trying to understand what I am seeing: that the sleeve and rtv is all that is holding the water in place? Also, Im not refering to the closed deck.
Water jacket is sealed at the top with the welding so the now opened area becomes part of the water jacket around the sleeves. The top of that area is sealed with the sealant, tight fit of the sleeve and the copper head gasket.
@@adematthewsracing thank you for the reply. As i mentioned, im not talking about the deck surface, as that has been clearly welded up and is now a dry deck, so no reason to mention the head gasket. Im refering to the timestamp 17:05. I know someone could say its obvious based on what we seen, i just wanted some confirmation that the expanded sleeves and rtv is all that is holding the water between the cylinder sleeves.
@@jtrill2 I know. That's what I'm talking about. The deck surface and the gasket is very relevant as Steve says. Think about where the water is going now the water jacket has been breached. It's flowing all around the outside of the new sleeves. It can't go up the original channel as it's been welded on top. The only place it can go is the in and out ports or, if there is a gap between the block and the sleeve. That's what the sealant is preventing and if it does get past that then it comes up hard against the copper gasket.
@@adematthewsracing cool cool, i see your point regarding the head gasket as if it were to leak above the top of the sleeve but be stopped by the head gasket ;), i never thought that to be a weak point in the setup but rather the strongest part of the overall sealing of the sleeve. My concern was for the sleeve sealing against the block and the lower silicone bead in the cylinder holding the water. If there was even the smallest leak water would end up in the bottom of the motor. Im just wondering if the sleeve expanding or the silicone at the bottom is doing the heavy lifting in this setup. I know Steve wouldnt do this if there was concern. Im just fascinated at the modification to the block and like to study its strong and weak points.
Hey Steve, Tim here, YES it is awesome!!......but alot of us dont have deep pockets......i'll stick with my old school 462 cube Poncho, 580 HP, probly 615 lb ft.....gets my 3450 lb car to the traps at 11:07......but what you DO bring is AWESOMENESS!!!......i'm a huge fan, i have 3 or 4 t-shirts, and they're gettin worn out.....will re-stock soon.......DONT CHANGE a damn thing, and i appreciate how much you hold back, and DONT curse, as a pro Jesus dude myself...... when i win the lottery, we'll have a chat.....hahah....PEACE to you sir!!
I agree that aluminum main caps are fine. But just to let you know John Force racing blocks have billet steel main caps and they switched to steel on there last run of blocks when they were running ford body’s and all of the blocks since they started running Chevy body’s have been steel. I do believe they are the only Top Fuel team running steel caps.
Imagine the satisfaction of machining your own parts and making an engine that you can watch go down the track at over 200mph. The closest to that feeling ill ever get is screwing in a light bulb and flipping the switch and the light working😂
This is so freaking cool, I’m a DVET, about 98% bed bound ,I miss building engines,cars and going fast..being on disability sucks, but paying to support this channel is well worth it..
@@Slowmo896 ex-Navy here. Served from 96-00. Thank you very much for your service and sacrifice. And your support of this channel.
Money. It takes lots of money.
How fast do you want to go depends on how much money you got. How you make a small fortune in racing is to start with a large fortune and work your way down.
no worries, they'll print more!!
Yes sir
You ain’t lying. Racing fast is a rich sport
You can have all the money in the world that doesn't make you go fast consistently that's why there's people with the biggest budgets imaginable not winning championships every year.. yes it takes a lot of money but that's only the start... That just gets you to the starting line...
I really like the fact that you don’t mind sharing your ideas with others. Most builds will hold something back that they do whether it’s good or bad.
Don't you worry because he's not giving up the ghost. I love this content
Wicked content and detail. I'm lov'n it.@@ironmike742
Some people do exactly the same thing, but say they have secret sauce.
He is giving back by educating the next generation of engine builders with this content and delivery method. It also is Marketing for him. So it is a win win situation. Have you noticed most high end engine builders (not tuners) have grey hair? We’ve lost quite a few long time builders in the last few years. Also notice his employees are young people who love the business and want to learn. Engine building isn’t something you learn in a book at University or Trade School, you got to be hands on.
not even China has this much invested. Steve is it
Between the Wader and the Chris Razor Picasso like welding hell.
Steve's tutorials..This addiction beats any other!
13:00 the only thing keeping the top half of the block from spliting like a piece of firewood is the head. All that loading I'm impressed that it holds itself together.
I really wanna see a crank driven ProCharged Viper V10 with zoomies. I wonder what that would sound like.
I think I missed something, on every other cylinder wouldn't you have to reborn the counterbore to accept these 2 sleeves ?
That shit would sound insane. Too bad they don't make gear drives for them.
It would be wild, probably have to be a partial tube chassis funnycar but seeing 5 tubes coming from each side spitting flames would be crazy.
I had one of the very first blown SRT10’s in Houston, and yes procharger..made 810 rwhp..beast , I used to scare the crap out of friends who had bolt on NA,srt10’s that thought their trucks where fast, lol.l
Holy chit man. That's alot of work. If you want to push the limit I guess this is what you have to do. Damn near re-engineering that sucker. I bet you feel a little bit spoiled now because that equipment you have is the chit. Hopefully you know what I mean by that. The repeatability of that equipment is insane. You deserve it sir because you have had a life long journey to get here Mr. Morris. I have been watching your content for a while now and I learn alot from you guys. It's so hard to keep up with new designs and technology. Great job guys.
The craziest part to me is using Permatex ultra black for sleeve inserts. I never knew that was something considered. I am jealous of all the machinery and process. I wish I could do that to my garage.
Play the lotto my man.. with enough cash it's possible 😳🤙
I’ve been fascinated by builders chasing horsepower since I was a kid. I took another path as a welder and machinist in the automotive industry ( tool and die shops). I appreciate your videos. It lets me travel a path no longer available to me. One shop I worked in had Aline boring machine that was huge. Line bored many diesel blocks there. Again thanks for the videos!
I see a t shirt of Morrisisms. Wader, Bad Mother Trucker, screwed up, machine hair cut, pretty goldarn cool, crazy cool.
Dang Brother, you sir are reinventing the wheel here with common sense, out of the box creativity!!!! I love your content so much! What the OEM engineers could learn from your processes.... just amazing!
Thank your Steve, pretty cool to see the extent you take to build an almost bullet proof engine for your costumers, may take lots of money but definitely worth the effort and time you put into them 😎👍
We miss Dewey! 🐕 Awesome video! I love watching all the machine work time lapse clips! There is just nothing better than seeing nice clean parts getting perfect, new, shiny, new surfaces being machined! As you like to say Steve, “I love the shiny! Must touch the shiny!”
When I got done building my motorcycle I put a really nice shiny silver paint job on it and it got all kinds of attention... But, I didn't put a heel for adhesion on the base coat before the clear and all the clear coat eventually pealed off leaving just a dull grey behind.
Then for some reason nobody ever even looked at the bike.
So this time around I did er up real good, I put on 3 coats of self-etching primer, 3 coats of simulated chrome, 3 coats of silver glitter, 3 coats of glitter sealer, 27 coats of clear, then put on 3 coats of two part hardener/clear coat. All with a steel wooled heel in between every coat except between the glitter and the glitter sealer, and sealer and the first 5 coats of clear...
You aught to see the attention it gets now. Haha
It's almost as if I conducted my own experimentation on the general public without them even knowing about it. Lol😂
Your humor makes this old dog smile. May you and yours have a healthy and happy year in 2024.
So the guy that installs the sleeves after shrinking them is just aligning the flats on the flanges by eye? That's a talented and cool individual.
Outstanding job Steve.
Nice modifications on the Viper Block for sure.
Thanks for sharing the process. 👍
Pretty much exactly what I've had done to my 1500hp 5 cylinder audi daza build. Great to see how it was actually done though 👌a true art
This is amazing to watch. From zero material to just super thick and watching the sleeves just slide in. Pressure to watch. So satisfying. I wish I had the money for one of your engines. Hell I would be happy with just a short block. Sheeeesh
I learn how much i know nothing watching Steves videos. Wicked stuff on these Viper engines.
Steve - there's a video showing the sleeve install being done wrong over on the Hagerty channels build of a Straight Eight, where they were hammered in by force, cracking the the cast iron liners. Seeing your team here heat the block and freeze the liners, doing it the right way, and then the sleeves just sliding in to position, is amazingly useful
That's how a lot of people install crank bearings on ATVs and MX bikes. Very simple and works perfectly. They usually drop right in.
Just a lil pro tip on your welding let the post flow run its cycle before you move the torch from your weld .. when you just yank it away as soon as you’re done it takes the gas coverage away from your tungsten while it’s still very hot and will contaminate the tungsten and then give you dirty starts from that point on
I'm pretty sure the welding clip you seen inserted here of the jackets being filled, was Chris Razor welding lol... while I know that's the norm, if Chris is doing something different, I'd lean towards him being the expert 😅
@@johnnygeorgopoulos4072 contaminating your tungsten is a new technique lol 👍🏻 doesn’t matter how long someone’s been welding they’re not impervious to mistakes or bad habits
I am so here for the viper knowledge man. Thanks Steve!
Listen to that TIG torch! More frequency! Chris got you right. Nice work as always!
I wish my gramps was still around to watch the videos I find today. He raced dirt circle track from sometime in the 50's to 1976, old school motorhead. New Egypt Speedway would be his home track to give some perspective. He would be blown away by the shit we've come up with since then.
I can't get enough, watching and learning from you Steve.
Love from Nashville
Loving the viper vids, so many companies don’t share viper info
See that Steve is using the new tricks he learned on welding them up. Hear that frequency turned up and singing
What amazing precision work you guys are doing, really not much left of that block before the sleeves go in. Beautiful to watch
M code to send table to the middle, and you'll find a setting in your cam to center on the part, so the vice comes to the door, rather than the G53 x0.
That was interesting. Seeing this block. What a design and seeing you make it better. Thanks
It was really interesting seeing the sleeves getting sealed and installed. Thank you.
Another Great Lesson from Professor Morris. Keep up the Amazing Work !!!!
Nice to see the ultra black as a sleeve sealant, I wondered what you'd use. The Liquid N2 doesn't cause issues with it?
I felt the buttpucker moment when the last sleeve didn't play nice, till it just slid in. Priceless.
Thanks all!
I've seen some engine builders use jb weld.
Heck I've inherited some top secret heads where the ports were sleeved and held in with jb. 😂
I would have thought you'd use something like a Loctite anaerobic sealer... The more you know it must not matter too much because of how accurate the machining is..
They make a bonding glue for sleeves, but once used they don't ever come out again.
Crank the feed rate up to 250 to 300 ipm on that aluminum 1/2 in endmills and all chamfer tools I run a vf4 at work as well. Love your stuff man. Much love from Missouri
Steve, you rock! It's amazing to see how, too. Peace ✌️
I worked at a defense contractor and we used a mixture of dry ice & alcohol to freeze things like bushings and sleeves. Is it better or cheaper I don't know but it might be another method that would work for some application. I think it might at least be more available than nitrogen in a pinch.
I genuinely lost it at the "wader passages" - awesome video sir!
After you pointed out the wader I couldn't stop hearing it like that😂😂😂
On a Porsche 996 and 997.1 Turbo (Mezger) engine with removable sleeves, if you don't remove them when surfacing the cylinder top and you don't have the sleeves stick up a little, you will loose pressure when under boost. A customer came in with that problem and we fixed it with new sleeves.
Steve:
Extraordinary Dedication to Detail!
A very good explanation and common sense approach.
Happy New Year!
Mike
There can't be that many of those blocks left. . . I can appreciate the effort on doing this properly.
Time 750
Wader passages ( Steve Morris )
The Kerbal rocket is going to the Mun , fly safe. ( Scott Manley )
Shatner esk . . . pauses ( Paul Harrell )
All part of the character of a channel, keep it coming.
Steve is the man thanks for showing your work I really appreciate it !!
Wow……
So much work!
That sleeve drop in was very smooth.
Another great video Steve. It’s going to be tough to beat this guy
Man look at that rad sweater Steve’s wearing at the end 💁🏼♀️ nice work stud!
Steve and team! Great video, your attention to detail is off the scale! 😎😎😎🤓🤓🤓
Thank you again professor.. Keep these classes coming ...I have a few !5 yo's across the country, via my channel, that i have watching your channel... I am so happy i met you via Cleetus. Happy New Year...
To reinforce Steve’s top fuel aluminum cap comment I work on nitro fuel dragster we pull main studs from block on some runs caps are never an issue
How does the air get out of the block? All OE head gaskets have holes above the bores somewhere to allow air to pass into the heads and out of the engine.
Thank you for the wader content
This thing is nice. Anxious to see the finished product
Happy new years guys!Great video.I love the machining process.Looking forward to more great videos in 2024.
Very cool Steve. Great work 🇺🇸🫡
Cool. I've always been a Viper fan since it was made!
I'm loving the viper content, I can't imagine what something like this would cost!
Excellent video Steve!!....Love seeing the process!!!.....
V8s and V10s . . . must be time soon to look at V12s
always look forward to your vids . . cheers R.
Your videos are super interesting and informative. Thank you.
Great insight Toby here work involved👍
Brother you are so dang amazing you are truly gifted by the lord Jesus on these engines
Great work on the viper Block , is much done to the heads to get to 3000hp
As a metrology technician, I approve your precision 😎👌
With the water transfer towards the end if you had real concern you could drop something like a hollow dowel pin in those connection points that way they don't bow out sideways
Very cool look at the process.
I have a question about sleeve material- are there different grades of material used for sleeves? Are they all cast iron, or is steel sometimes used? I'd appreciate any education you can offer on this
Curious if that will get a torque plate before boring sleeves. They are press fit so i dont think they would move at all during the process?
I am buying blank sleaves and modifying them too for my V10 build 👍
Great work 😎 I want a Rottler 😂
Super cool video!!!
I do a bit of light machining work, lath, end mill.
So cool see how much it takes to build, BIG drive and drag horse power!!!
Very cool stuff!!!
SME!! Is the best of the best!!
Holy duty cycle Batman..! Welding the former holes for water sounded like one of those China welding processes you see on tik tok...one continuous arc with some filler rod thrown in. Thats pretty crazy!
DUDE !! I want your Pro Street Roadmaster in the background !!
couldn't you fill in that raw aluminum between the bores(Tig Weld some material), to make the holes in the mating walls it less jagged? Would that "jaggedness" be a source of fracture and cracking?
11:09 is there enough to hold the bolts into the block?
The head studs go deeper than where he machined alot out of.
So did you go up to 200 hertz on the welder and the helium gas mix?
You mean amps.
Beautiful Viper engine, thank you
Why do you use cast iron for sleeves and not some alloy steel?
Steve how do you know or how do you make sure that water won’t leak to the crankcase trough the sleeves ? Thanks
Amazing that with good design you can keep the heads clamped down on a 3000 HP engine with only 4 head studs per cylinder.
For sure!! 300 HP per hole is pretty impressive on 4 1/2 inch studs!!!
I didn’t see Dewey inspecting your your work! Someone’s going to get fired. lol! I didn’t realize you cut that much out of the block. I see why the sleeve is like it is now. Thank you for sharing. I didn’t see Dewey ok on this.
What impresses me is that you ‘jumped the shark’ on the first one to see if this would even work.
After more or less ignoring drag racing while I raised my family. I am AMAZED at the progress in the hp wars. Nitro cars had just gone from 4000 hp to around 6000. Now you are getting 4000. even 5000 hp from turbo engines. AMAZING. The larger cam diameters help the valve trains go high rpm
Hey Steve, to get the sleeves out, take ur welder and run a bead top to bottom inside the bore. I have seen it make em fall out of diesel engines
I was just thinking about hollow alignment dowels for those two wader passages. Would that even work?
Great work, the power of CNC machines.... just my thoughts, welding all first, bore cam tunnel, fit sleeves, then fit main caps, line bore mains, then finish with line honing cam and main tunnel...line honing at the end to ensure all the other processes don't move block around...??/
Thank you for sharing your passion🎉
those sleeves have some impressive wall thicknes in the top part
seen a company put in sleepes in an article in hot rod magazine , cannot remember wat engine but can remember that they basicly cut the original cilinders out of the block by cutting the deck and the crankcase and pulled all the inside structure out of the block
still wondering how they kept the cilinderbanks from splitting off the crankcase (probably bolted the heads to the main bearings )
takes a lot of figuring out to get a bigger / stronger wall and still have enough strength left in the block
What would be the max displacement on this engine NA with custom bore and routing assembly?
Question: so the sleeves inserted cold thus expanding after, with rtv, is enough to seal the now opened water jackets, (as seen @17:05)? I seen the builder add rtv to the deck surface and on the bottom ledge in the cylinder bore (@18:06) before inserting the sleeve. I know if there was a problem doing this they wouldnt do it, im just trying to understand what I am seeing: that the sleeve and rtv is all that is holding the water in place? Also, Im not refering to the closed deck.
Water jacket is sealed at the top with the welding so the now opened area becomes part of the water jacket around the sleeves. The top of that area is sealed with the sealant, tight fit of the sleeve and the copper head gasket.
@@adematthewsracing thank you for the reply. As i mentioned, im not talking about the deck surface, as that has been clearly welded up and is now a dry deck, so no reason to mention the head gasket. Im refering to the timestamp 17:05.
I know someone could say its obvious based on what we seen, i just wanted some confirmation that the expanded sleeves and rtv is all that is holding the water between the cylinder sleeves.
@@jtrill2 I know. That's what I'm talking about. The deck surface and the gasket is very relevant as Steve says. Think about where the water is going now the water jacket has been breached. It's flowing all around the outside of the new sleeves. It can't go up the original channel as it's been welded on top. The only place it can go is the in and out ports or, if there is a gap between the block and the sleeve. That's what the sealant is preventing and if it does get past that then it comes up hard against the copper gasket.
@@adematthewsracing cool cool, i see your point regarding the head gasket as if it were to leak above the top of the sleeve but be stopped by the head gasket ;), i never thought that to be a weak point in the setup but rather the strongest part of the overall sealing of the sleeve. My concern was for the sleeve sealing against the block and the lower silicone bead in the cylinder holding the water. If there was even the smallest leak water would end up in the bottom of the motor. Im just wondering if the sleeve expanding or the silicone at the bottom is doing the heavy lifting in this setup. I know Steve wouldnt do this if there was concern. Im just fascinated at the modification to the block and like to study its strong and weak points.
Cheap, fast, reliable. You have to pick two.
You dont just pick 2, its a triangle and you choose a point somewhere inbetween all 3.
Dont have to choose one of the lines midpoints.
That table is big enough for multiple vices to make multiple main caps at a time. Giving you more time to run another machine.
another great video team ,if you want to learn something this is the channel to watch
Hey Steve,
Tim here, YES it is awesome!!......but alot of us dont have deep pockets......i'll stick with my old school 462 cube Poncho, 580 HP, probly 615 lb ft.....gets my 3450 lb car to the traps at 11:07......but what you DO bring is AWESOMENESS!!!......i'm a huge fan, i have 3 or 4 t-shirts, and they're gettin worn out.....will re-stock soon.......DONT CHANGE a damn thing, and i appreciate how much you hold back, and DONT curse, as a pro Jesus dude myself...... when i win the lottery, we'll have a chat.....hahah....PEACE to you sir!!
Looks like you sre doing pretty good for a beginner Steve!
what kind of drive shaft and half shafts will you use to put that much HP to the wheels?
Hey man, try pre heating those blocks with a propane weed burner setup, you’ll find it goes a bit quicker and you’ll save money in consumables.
Would those rear coolant holes be enough flow for a drag and drive? Could the be offset rearward made bigger?
You do anything similar as far as dry decking on aluminum ls blocks?
I agree that aluminum main caps are fine. But just to let you know John Force racing blocks have billet steel main caps and they switched to steel on there last run of blocks when they were running ford body’s and all of the blocks since they started running Chevy body’s have been steel. I do believe they are the only Top Fuel team running steel caps.
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Imagine the satisfaction of machining your own parts and making an engine that you can watch go down the track at over 200mph. The closest to that feeling ill ever get is screwing in a light bulb and flipping the switch and the light working😂
Oh yeah, but the rush when that room fills with glorious light - nothing beats it.
So I’m confused if you weld the water holes than how does the water flow through the heads