@@craigpennington1251 it apparently comes from the medical field: it refers to a surgeon opening someone up, finding out the patient is too far gone, so they close him back up.
That car was once brand new and being delivered to a super happy guy. And somewhere along the line, a series of really bad decisions were made, and here we are.😔
You're right - some people have no business working on engines. But considering how that engine got that way in the first place, some people have no business owning a high-performance vehicle, either.
@@cablenowadays6586 uh... thats not a high performance engine lol? also its probably an older jeep and its probably the 4.0L which literally had decades of R&D by european and american engineers.
@@Amerikanskis The 4.0L started out as the AMC 232, first introduced in 1964. The French added fuel injection and changed the bore/stroke in the 80's when they owned a large percentage of AMC. 70's AMC 258 cranks drop right into 4.0L blocks, making them 4.5L.
Owner definitely had a mangled cylinder, went to a shop, got an estimate for how much it would be and said "you're tryng to rip me off, I know someone who can do it for a third of that."
The dry humor on this channel is just amazing. I think FCA/Stellantis should consider their next 3.0 Eco Diesel to be made out of just wrist pins, would be much more reliable. They can pay me royalties for that idea later.
Shattered piston: "oh no..." Destroyed crank bolt: "oh no!" Straight water in the oil pan: "OH NO!!!" damn, this poor viper engine got the crap kicked out of it
*seller takes the money* Seller : "thanks, hey... your ass quivering"? you: "no, why"? Seller: "cause you just got screwed" *seller runs off with the money and uses it to ruin another engine*
i made the cylinder liners for these viper engines (linamar machining in Guelph,ontario)they are separate from the block (pressed in and made of powdered metal) .it can be removed ( machined out )and replaced as long as the block isn't windowed.(i couldn't tell) i would definitely look into it. from the video perspective it definitely looks saveable but i cant see close enough
Very interesting find on that crank pulley bolt. In the thirty years I've been turning wrenches for a living, I've always lived by the mantra of not forcing anything. If something won't "go", there's usually a reason for it. The crank pulley bolt hackery in this particular video reminds me of one particular time at my dealership. My coworker always like to get me to help with installation of tensioner-less belts. One particular such setup was on a Mustang GT with the 5.0 Coyote engine with A/C compressor belt. I was assisting my coworker with reinstalling the belt, while he was holding the belt in the manner needed to get it to realign with the grooves on both pulleys, I was tasked with turning the crank pulley. I remembered it being much tighter to turn the crank than it normally would be. At the point where the belt was about to seat properly was when the crank wouldn't turn any further. As I was about to put more force on the breaker bar to turn it further, I could feel the bolt was about to strip inside the crank, so of course I stopped. And that's when the both of us decided to think about what could possibly cause the crank to be that tight to turn. After some looking around, we both realized, the was on the lift low enough that the rear wheels were touching the, AND the car was left in gear (manual transmission). So..... what was happening, was that I was not only turning the engine over as I spinning the crank with the breaker bar. I was also spinning the rear wheels with it (they were just touching the ground but not with all the weight resting on it so I was able to overcome the resistance of the wheels turning). But by the time we had the belt situated where it was the tightest, the resistance to movement ended up being too much. As soon as we placed the transmission in neutral, we were able to put the belt on the rest of the way completely without further issue. Thankfully, I had the sense to stop, when I could feel the bolt about to turn an strip. Once again, in this profession, if something won't "go", there's a reason for it.
Gotta give someone credit for actually getting another bolt into the nose! I wonder if this was in a shop and they broke the bolt off, thinking about the cost of tearing down the engine and replacing the crankshaft they elected to attempt a cheap fix. Maybe the tech that did it didn't tell their supervisor what he'd done and fixed it his/herself kinda "under the radar)?
Agreed....MANY YEARS of certified motherfuckery. Likely can get a new C8 with the tears of all whom have been duped by a ½ wasted mofo hammerin the hippy lettuce.
This actually made me really sad. I haven’t seen an engine so thoroughly destroyed and it’s worse to see it on an engine I really like. I’ll never understand how someone lets their equipment and machinery get violated like this
Nice video, interesting to watch the engine teardown of the Dodge V10. They look like a fairly solid basic engine, not too complicated. Hope you get your money back, certainly made for a cool video. Cheers from central Australia!
Does anyone remember that weird sci-fi series in the 90s, called Viper. The Viper in that could heal itself... cool show to me as a kid. Alas, I see now they can't heal themselves.
Yep, I had the Tyco slot car version! I recall the little UAV/drone thing was awesome, and now it's something a kid can buy on Amazon with chore money.
The reason why the engine was put together with standard bolts was that Chrysler used the 360cid engine as the base of the V10 engine. It was done to cut down development costs. So basically it's a 360 with 2 cylinders added. It was pretty smart at the time.
My brother blew up the engine in his 2006 S2000 a few months ago… he money shifted so it wasn’t the cars fault. He tore the engine apart and it was very interesting to see what was found in the oil pan 🤣
The force required for the part to slide off would be the same, whether the threads of the puller are oiled or not. I've never oiled my puller in 25 years, and never had an issue.
@@davelowets The force generated by the parts sliding apart would be the same, but the friction in the threaded puller would add less to the total force needed to remove the parts if the threads were oiled.
@@owaind-g678 I ALWAYS use Moly grease on a fastener that needs to be torqued to a specific number. For rod bolts in an engine, I use a stretch guage. For a puller, never used any lube, and never had any issues getting whatever it was I was pulling, off. I like my tools and box clean. You are free to do what you like. I'm simply stating that I've never lubed my pullers, and never had a situation where I couldn't easily turn it, and remove the component.
Crank bolt heads can shear off if they are over torqued. Had a friend do that to his 3.0L Mitsubishi V6 motor many years ago. He was drilling & tapped that bolt over a few days...went through three new drill bits. He learnt his less the hard way. Only torque to spec. Never over-torque!
I bought a bowtie 4.3 sight unseen from a guy in Arizona, someone had tore it down and used bathroom silicone on the entire engine when they threw it back together after seeing 1 melted piston and 1 turned into a crumble. Dude said he had no idea that it was like that... mhmm sure and I'll believe that when my shit smells like rainbow sherbert
hah, i would have brazed the holes in the liner shut (so that the water keeps in), remowed the pushrods and cutted top of the conrod out in the damaged cylinder, basically making it a V9 :) would make a sick engine in a somesort of dirtbug etc diy car project
was going to say the same, the damage overall seems pretty lite considering a piston went to pieces, head should be salvageable as well, with a decking and new valve guides and seals
Yup. Fixed far worse working on aftermarket drag bits. Gimme that head, a couple carbides, a TIG welder, and 2 hours. I'll have the crack ground out, filled, and reshaped to match the others. Why are people so afraid to sleeve a block, too? I guess if you take it to an idiot, but then, you could just buy engines from the numbnuts who sold him this one.
@@guerrillaradio9953 Because it would cost more to fix the block, than it would to buy a good used one. I've seen good GTR blocks go for $2500. And it's not wounded to start with.
Typical Dodge owner...gaps their own sparkplugs using the back spine of a competition cutting knife. My dad used to say that, even though he drives Ram 1500's. And has owned a Viper Gen Ii. And a Plymouth Prowler. The Viper was maintenance heavy, dangerous and my mom wouldn't let me and my sister ride in it. I rode in that car about 10 times and drove it twice. This brings back memories. I did miss your videos. I had blood poisoning amd was down for about a month so I have a few videos to catch up on.
@@michaelscott-joynt3215 Yet there are some that do want a unique piece of furniture. I myself took the backseat out of a late 80s Chrysler New Yorker, and am turning that into a couch.
About SAE sockets: I had a truck that had the annoying feature of some parts being metric, and some parts being SAE. It wasn't a rebuilt wreck, it came like that from the factory.
Sounds like fun, because some of them had the notorious 3 valve design. However, since those didn't have the VVT system that was annoying on the V8 variant, maybe they weren't so bad... Except for those stupid spark plugs.
You are lucky you got one of those to tear down.. That must have been pulled out by a NON-dealer or warranty work or something? Any of those that came into through my brothers scrap yard, typically in lots of 50 to a 100, would then be over seen by a certified person, to verify that every single unit was shredded, and not torn apart for parts or sold off as rebuildable units for sale? I suspect that was to rule out any possible chance that the rumor would get out that there was any issue with the V-10 units? and they ended up rectifying the issue in a new revision drop in engine power plant, but the my brother said that over 2500 V-10 power plants over a 5 year period had been shredded. some new looking, some looking like they came out of a 1983 Ford Thunderbird with oil crud build up everywhere.. Clever engines in my opinion, even with the issues they had... plus, they sound cool too...
People obtain money through inheritance or the lottery , drugs or theft and they’re used to working on Voyagers not Vipers . That’s my guess on the hack job . I’d like to know the REAL story.
Products like these that you can count their serial numbers on your fingers and toes should be treasured and treated well. The cockroach that destroyed this engine does not deserve to own nice things like this engine was.
I wish I could take stuff apart like this every day and do it as a living. It’s always fun finding out what happened to stuff or just to see how the engine was maintained.
That V10 is from a Ram. Thermostat housing and exhaust manifolds and oil pan tell me that. Given it's an 8.3 V10 and came with a manual trans that would make it the earlier SRT-10 Ram.
I just found your channel and have been binge watching for the last few days. It is great to learn bit by bit from your knowledge. It is also great to see what the rods, lifters, rocker arms, valves, pistons, bores, etc look like in different scenarios. Thanks for uploading.
You might get money for the block from an owner that is planning on building a big power TT Viper, they put darton sleeves in them so the damaged bores aren't an issue. Crank bolt hole will clean up fine too.
Believe it or not the valve seat land in the head can be welded & machined to accept a new valve seat & remachined as long as he head isn't cracked & the guide area isn't toast as well. Depends on the resources & money one wants to spend.
Here's a cool coffee table idea. Take one of your slightly used low mileage gems that has a window or 2 punched out and obliterates pistons and do your best to put the pistons back together with JB Weld and other low value parts to assemble a non stuck short block (with windows).
What makes hack jobs the worst is when the seller doesn't tell you about their garbage work on the parts. I had thought the worst was a donor engine I bought that had some flywheel bolts cross threaded. They sent it home with an impact, and I ended up drilling it out of there : | That was until I bought a used ecu harness and the seller never mentioned he cut a downstream O2 sensor wire instead of just replacing that sensor and had one of those performance modules hooked up.. I discovered that when it threw codes for open maf circuit. He just cut off a wire and taped it all up with electrical tape. /rant lmao
Wow. I tore down my viper engine at 50000 miles (which is high for these motors) and it looked brand new. The fact this engine is so dirty inside and out makes me wonder how many miles were on it... Very interesting video Eric. Great job as always
180K on mine (Ram SRT) and it looks nowhere near as bad. Not brand new for sure. I could have probably been better with my oil change frequency. But still smooth running (as smooth as that firing order can get) and all of the valve cover paint intact.
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 oh I completely understand. Just a lover of a Nissan 6 cylinder love the sound of them. But if you wanna get real simple, the Ford flat head.
@@PSWii360onBaSS not really, plus running the exhaust all the way from the valley to the outside of the v, *through the block* .....isn't a good way to cool down an engine that already had inherent cooling problems. And that's why ardun got in the business of making hemi head conversions for them. A effort to get them to last in heavy trucks.
Literally other than that piston, rod, and valve, oh and that one pushrod, everything else is salvageable. It is an open deck sleeved block. If it punched through the sleeve and through the block behind it, you can easily weld a patch in the block and put new sleeves in it. And a machine shop can easily drill out the rest of that Bolt, and then rethread for a larger size, weld up and recut the threads, or some kind of strong Helicoil.
Nah, a good used block would be cheaper and stronger. Put a supercharger on that repaired crank, and you'd probably snap the snout off of it. That shit is scrap.
Would that be the 2.0 PD TDI in the 2005 and 2006 Passat, or the 2.0 CRD TDI found in later VW models? He might be able to find a 2.0 PD TDI worth his time, many people gave up on their B5.5 Passat because the engine needed a new cam, cam buckets, and balance shaft module.
"I hear crunchy stuff".. "lets keep going"....glad to see its not just me when bad things come into the shop, it just kind of makes you wanna "help" it out a little....
None of the plugs could be from that engine. It’s possible that they just grabbed crap out of the trash to fill up the holes to keep the gremlins from escaping.
What I would have liked to hear is the backstory about the engine itself. How did it come to you as just an engine? Most of the time, engines come with cars, but especially a Viper. The valve covers looked like they have been sitting in the elements for years without a car. the Viper is one of my favorite cars, and I just can't imagine anyone doing this to a Viper.
That is so totally rebuildable. Ok so some machining and new parts are required. But seriously it's not totally junk. I'm sure there's a market for reman viper engines.
Could be re-sleeved possibly. Not knowing anything about Viper engines my thought is if the crank bolt is reverse thread, that might be how it got broke cause the guy didn't know that and just put the longest cheater bar to it and gave it hell.
Just remember one thing when you are buying used/classic cars or car parts like this...there is NO SUCH THING as a "car guy brotherhood". If words are coming out of a seller's mouth, THEY ARE LYING TO YOU...PERIOD! That is the mentality you must ALWAYS have when buying used cars/parts. If you can't confirm something WITH YOUR OWN EYES, then DON'T BELIEVE IT! Trust me. I am lucky to have learned this lesson at age 18, even though I learned it the hard way when I bought a 1970 SS Chevelle long distance. I'm fortunate that I only paid $14,000 for the car and not something like $24,000 because it was a worthless Bondo bucket. The only silver lining is that it was the car on which I learned how to do body and restoration work because it was such a POS. I just want to make sure that EVERYBODY understands what I am saying here. It DOESN'T MATTER WHO the seller is. Even if it is a supposedly "reputable" person or ESPECIALLY a dealership. THEY WILL ALL LIE TO YOU in order to get out from under a POS car that they overpaid for. Far too many people believe that a dealership "isn't allowed to lie" in their ads or descriptions about classic cars, so they believe every word in the ad and then overpay for fake SS cars or worthless Bondo buckets. It still shocks me how many people think that if a dealership advertises something as a "real 1970 SS Chevelle" that it MUST be true. There have been so many "real SS cars" with FAKE build sheets and re-stamped engines sold as "real SS cars" by classic car dealers, and if you get stuck with one, there is usually NO legal recourse...it's "buyer beware" and YOU bought the car so now you're stuck with it! I will NEVER understand why ANYONE would ever buy a classic car from a stealership...but countless people do.
A automotive machinist that's worth their salt should be able to extract that broken pulley bolt. Worst case would be a thread insert. Grind undersize, and usable crank.
Yea, I was gonna say, there are a few tricks to get this done and to trash an otherwise very expensive crank seems like a waste, not like there are a ton of Viper cranks laying around.
@@TestECull If you want a cast crank in your Viper engine, sure. I'd want the forged Viper crank though... The heads are different on the Viper also, and truck heads won't bolt onto a Viper block without work either. There are quite a few differences between the truck and the car motor.
A good machine shop can repair the cam & crank. I used to outsource blocks to a company who step-lined them. What they did is remove the entire damaged cylinder to the water jacket, then they machined a 3mm step into the top of the block, & inserted a liner to the original bore size, providing the rest of the cylinders were within specs. If not, the rest of the cylinders were bored to oversize, & the required size sleeve/liner was fitted to suit. Pull down a Mercedes M117-986 engine. These are the 4.52 litre OHC V8.
Im always amazed when manufactures decide to make cast aluminum oil pans. they aren't any lighter than pressed aluminum or even pressed steel and they are way more prone to getting irreparably damaged.
They have really nice fins…if they have fins. No point in a cast aluminum pan if it isn't finned. I had a couple of cars that had barrel crankcases. The main bearing caps were integral with the lower blocks. Nevertheless they had cast aluminum pans with really pretty fins.
Subscribed for your hatred towards that disgusting Bosch spark plug :D although I believe they belong in the bin not the street corner, less chance of hurting anyone :D although..... I'd throw Champions in the same bin and use NGKs personally :P
@@MAGGOT_VOMIT 🙄Who's dumb? After you've drilled out, welded up, and retapped the crank, it WILL be weaker than an undamaged crank. In a supercharger application it's not the bolt that breaks, it's the entire crank snout that ends up breaking off. One would NEVER want to use a damaged crank in a supercharger motor. Wise up son, before you call someone with more intelligence and more experience than you "Stupid". 🤦🏻
@@davelowets Filling and Drilling correctly would never cause that to happen, Junior. Maybe one day you'll become old enough to see enough of them repaired correctly at a REAL machine-shop, that NEVER break off at the so-called "snout", JUNIOR!! What an amateur!! 😆😂🤣
@@MAGGOT_VOMIT Bullshit. An undamaged one will ALWAYS be stronger than a repaired one. Obviously you have no experience with crank driven superchargers, or else you'd know better. A "real machine shop" wouldn't attempt to repair a crank with that kind of damage in a supercharger motor either. If it's a "real" shop, they would know better also. I can totally see some hack try to repair it though..
That block could be saved with a sleeve, may not be a streetable engine. But, i'm sure if you cemented the cooling passages in the block, and stuffed a sleeve in there, it would be a good race block
Sand blast those valve covers, tape up he VIPER text, repaint cover Viper Red. Or even sell them sand blasted and ready for painting so the new owner can paint it what ever color they want.
There is a reason they quit making those v-10's. Mopar never could get the quality and reliability out of them. Later year trucks that had them suffered from broken cranks. The new "hemi's" also are prone to issues, mainly from sludge because people don't understand the oil change requirement and value of using good oil and filters.
there must be something with this block that i don't understand. if it only has one F__ked up cylinder, why cant it be sleeved? A 97 to 02 gen2 block will easily fetch $4000
Seeing that engine as it came apart I envisioned a story of probably a lot of normal use, then someone bought the car and started drag racing it, then decided that it needed nitrous (third owner?)...which dropped the seat. Piston may have come apart as it was already being shut down, crushing the hopes and dreams of the rod and pin to escape the confines of the block.
So overheated, dropped a seat, wiped the piston and locked the engine. Snapped the crank bolt trying to free it up. Realize they completely fucked the engine, threw it back together and now it's your problem.
These things have been dogged to death. That's why you have them to work on. You never see a Viper for sale that is in great condition. Either you have ones that actually knows the value of $ and how much the bitch costs, or you have the total idiots who don't give a shit. Interesting videos anyway.
Pulls valve cover off side with missing head gasket and head bolts and says sarcastically... *" Well I kinda guessed this head had been off because well someone had to get the head gasket outta there somehow. We don't need those. It's already got one on the other side - why do you need two for?"*
what a waste of a nice and a somewhat rare and expensive engine .doesn't surprise me but it's a shame. I realize it could have just failed and someone obviously tore into it to see the problem then reassembled it. it appears they didn't put the head gasket on because it is fucked .you may be able to sleeve it but I doubt that turd is worth the effort and money?
Another truck engine. Different oil pan and exhaust manifolds from the car. Not that they are that different internally, but could be used in a much different way than it would in a car.
So nice of them to include dipping sauce with the piston nuggets.
Hahaha
jajajaajajajajaaa , dodge flavors
I understand that it tastes like baby seal tears.
Oooooh buddy!
My favorite 😋
That missing headbolt and headgasket is an obvious sign someone else did a "peek and shriek" on this engine.
"Peek and shriek" - I must remember this one.
Exactly!
LMFAO
I must be too damn old. What is peek & shriek? Never heard of that term. Been around engines & racing for 60 years +.
@@craigpennington1251 it apparently comes from the medical field: it refers to a surgeon opening someone up, finding out the patient is too far gone, so they close him back up.
Engine teardown reveals:
-exploded piston
-ruined block
-leaky head gaskets
-loose valve seats
-pitting on camshaft
-scored conrod bearings
-crankshaft ruined with pulley bolt seazed
-full sump of water+oil mix
What seller stated:
-maybe one cylinder is bad...maybe
I would go back like... They knew it haha
*ran when parked in craigslist ad
"misfire on one cylinder"
That’s probably all the ECM was able to figure out
If the block is no good, you are left with nothing. What would a new block cost - $10,000.
That car was once brand new and being delivered to a super happy guy.
And somewhere along the line, a series of really bad decisions were made, and here we are.😔
Bad decisions... Often work together with the phrase, _"Alcohol was involved."_
Temp gauge at 250: This is fine…
if it was an engine from vag several ppl would cry about the manufacturer :D
You've summed up every car & bike I've ever owned 😅😅😅😥😥😥
lol
You're right - some people have no business working on engines. But considering how that engine got that way in the first place, some people have no business owning a high-performance vehicle, either.
Me running my jeep in 15k mile intervals for oil changes and still driving it to 348k miles now
@@cablenowadays6586 uh... thats not a high performance engine lol?
also its probably an older jeep and its probably the 4.0L which literally had decades of R&D by european and american engineers.
Yes, it is a two-way street. Pun intended.
@@Amerikanskis The 4.0L started out as the AMC 232, first introduced in 1964. The French added fuel injection and changed the bore/stroke in the 80's when they owned a large percentage of AMC. 70's AMC 258 cranks drop right into 4.0L blocks, making them 4.5L.
shit happens,if you have a viper generally you drive them HARD....you don't anticipate stuff blowing up
Owner definitely had a mangled cylinder, went to a shop, got an estimate for how much it would be and said "you're tryng to rip me off, I know someone who can do it for a third of that."
“Chris Hansen’d that piston and told it to take a seat” 😂 😂 😂
haha
Perfect!
After laughing at him saying that, I made sure to come down to the comment section and see if anybody else posted it before me. 😂
Bravo
I had to back it up and listen again to make sure I heard correctly.
"The cylinder with the piston delete" had me rolling.
The dry humor on this channel is just amazing. I think FCA/Stellantis should consider their next 3.0 Eco Diesel to be made out of just wrist pins, would be much more reliable. They can pay me royalties for that idea later.
Kinda hard to put rings on a pin.
Shattered piston: "oh no..."
Destroyed crank bolt: "oh no!"
Straight water in the oil pan: "OH NO!!!"
damn, this poor viper engine got the crap kicked out of it
"OH YEAH!!!"
Undamaged rod: "Anyway"
Who ever worked on that motor needs to throw his tools in a river...a real butcher boy!
Oh yeah: go right ahead and torture the river. What did the river did to you eh?
This engine smells of nitrous injection. All the parts to the system were removed. Then the junk core was sold.
*seller takes the money*
Seller : "thanks, hey... your ass quivering"?
you: "no, why"?
Seller: "cause you just got screwed"
*seller runs off with the money and uses it to ruin another engine*
Come for an engine teardown and get a comedy routine as a bonus!
That's What u get when u Mix adam Sandler and a Mechanic 😂
i made the cylinder liners for these viper engines (linamar machining in Guelph,ontario)they are separate from the block (pressed in and made of powdered metal)
.it can be removed ( machined out )and replaced as long as the block isn't windowed.(i couldn't tell) i would definitely look into it.
from the video perspective it definitely looks saveable but i cant see close enough
Ditto! it can be saved looks like a truck motor to me.
No, he won't "get crazy" and fix it... maybe he can use it as a coffee table... lol
Damn, I've seen some molested shit working in a salvage yard but that jewel is top notch!
That's what I said... sleeve it.
Well, I live i chile and we sleeve blocks all the time, sometimes we patch holes in them ;)
Those early years of cylinder deactivation. Everyone wanted to get it on it but it was an expensive option. At least this owner got it for free!
😂😂😂
I’ll have to remember that one
They just forgot to tell the engineer designing the system that they wanted reversible cylinder deactivation.
Jokes on the internet: "Haha they made it a V9 engine"
Volkswagen Engineer: "Write that down"
I was gonna say the same lol or a v9.3 at least
Very interesting find on that crank pulley bolt. In the thirty years I've been turning wrenches for a living, I've always lived by the mantra of not forcing anything. If something won't "go", there's usually a reason for it. The crank pulley bolt hackery in this particular video reminds me of one particular time at my dealership. My coworker always like to get me to help with installation of tensioner-less belts. One particular such setup was on a Mustang GT with the 5.0 Coyote engine with A/C compressor belt. I was assisting my coworker with reinstalling the belt, while he was holding the belt in the manner needed to get it to realign with the grooves on both pulleys, I was tasked with turning the crank pulley. I remembered it being much tighter to turn the crank than it normally would be. At the point where the belt was about to seat properly was when the crank wouldn't turn any further. As I was about to put more force on the breaker bar to turn it further, I could feel the bolt was about to strip inside the crank, so of course I stopped. And that's when the both of us decided to think about what could possibly cause the crank to be that tight to turn. After some looking around, we both realized, the was on the lift low enough that the rear wheels were touching the, AND the car was left in gear (manual transmission). So..... what was happening, was that I was not only turning the engine over as I spinning the crank with the breaker bar. I was also spinning the rear wheels with it (they were just touching the ground but not with all the weight resting on it so I was able to overcome the resistance of the wheels turning). But by the time we had the belt situated where it was the tightest, the resistance to movement ended up being too much. As soon as we placed the transmission in neutral, we were able to put the belt on the rest of the way completely without further issue. Thankfully, I had the sense to stop, when I could feel the bolt about to turn an strip. Once again, in this profession, if something won't "go", there's a reason for it.
wow,dont know if i would admit to this....
Brilliant answer! My old dad always told us exactly the same..."in engineering never force it as that is not engineering, it's demolition!"
Gotta give someone credit for actually getting another bolt into the nose!
I wonder if this was in a shop and they broke the bolt off, thinking about the cost of tearing down the engine and replacing the crankshaft they elected to attempt a cheap fix. Maybe the tech that did it didn't tell their supervisor what he'd done and fixed it his/herself kinda "under the radar)?
It takes skill and perseverance to be as bad as whoever “worked “on that engine.
Nobody works on that engine, they just "prepare" the engine for a fast sale event...🤪🤪
@@yordanky76 - true, very true.
I was going to say this. I'm very impressed by the determination it took to do that much wrong.
Agreed....MANY YEARS of certified motherfuckery. Likely can get a new C8 with the tears of all whom have been duped by a ½ wasted mofo hammerin the hippy lettuce.
Mah bad.
This actually made me really sad. I haven’t seen an engine so thoroughly destroyed and it’s worse to see it on an engine I really like. I’ll never understand how someone lets their equipment and machinery get violated like this
You : "oh turns out to be metal"
Me: "totally amazing"
Dude I freaking love your videos man, comedy is on point!
Nice video, interesting to watch the engine teardown of the Dodge V10. They look like a fairly solid basic engine, not too complicated. Hope you get your money back, certainly made for a cool video. Cheers from central Australia!
Viper v10. Pickup v10s were a different breed unless it was a viper truck or srt 10.
Does anyone remember that weird sci-fi series in the 90s, called Viper. The Viper in that could heal itself... cool show to me as a kid. Alas, I see now they can't heal themselves.
Yep, I had the Tyco slot car version! I recall the little UAV/drone thing was awesome, and now it's something a kid can buy on Amazon with chore money.
@@hydrocarbon82 Aww sweet! I remember we got it here in Australia, it was on before Seaquest or something. Good times.
@@MattExzy right in the nostalgia feels mannn
Yo i remember that show and the arcade game!! The arcade game was a joke
It was flaming red and it turned grey when it would transform. Fucking nostalgia man
The reason why the engine was put together with standard bolts was that Chrysler used the 360cid engine as the base of the V10 engine. It was done to cut down development costs. So basically it's a 360 with 2 cylinders added. It was pretty smart at the time.
The "take a seat" comment had me laughing pretty hard.
They do say 'dodge' clearly on the product, so at least they come with a warning.
Should have Dodged that purchase.
I thought it was a warning to pedestrians & other cars?
I owned a 2001 Honda S2000, it would be cool if you could find an f20 motor out of something. Keep up the awesome videos!!!
The f20 has polished cylinder liners. Its a very interesting tech if u look into it, but its prone to eating oil rings and burning tones oil
My brother blew up the engine in his 2006 S2000 a few months ago… he money shifted so it wasn’t the cars fault. He tore the engine apart and it was very interesting to see what was found in the oil pan 🤣
I know a guy with a viper v10 in his s2000. . .f20 be damned.
the f20c only came in the s2000 and the f20s in the 90s accord and prelude aren't the same engine
Some later versions of the S2000 had an F22 series engines, but for some reason, they didn't call the car an S2200.
Always oil the threads on a puller before use. Greatly reduces the force needed to remove the part and cuts wear on the puller.
The force required for the part to slide off would be the same, whether the threads of the puller are oiled or not. I've never oiled my puller in 25 years, and never had an issue.
@@davelowets The force generated by the parts sliding apart would be the same, but the friction in the threaded puller would add less to the total force needed to remove the parts if the threads were oiled.
@@honkie247 The only force that would change is the force needed by your arm, and not by that much.
@@davelowets The torque required is reduced by around 30% with oiled threads.
@@owaind-g678 I ALWAYS use Moly grease on a fastener that needs to be torqued to a specific number. For rod bolts in an engine, I use a stretch guage. For a puller, never used any lube, and never had any issues getting whatever it was I was pulling, off. I like my tools and box clean. You are free to do what you like. I'm simply stating that I've never lubed my pullers, and never had a situation where I couldn't easily turn it, and remove the component.
These earlyish Viper motors are known for Head Gasket issues. Say that is exactly what happened here.
Crank bolt heads can shear off if they are over torqued. Had a friend do that to his 3.0L Mitsubishi V6 motor many years ago. He was drilling & tapped that bolt over a few days...went through three new drill bits. He learnt his less the hard way. Only torque to spec. Never over-torque!
This is gonna be a really cool coffee table.
Inspired by Top Gears one?.
they always gotta be 10-12 cyl blocks and this is perfect way another legend on dodge’s list of many
I bought a bowtie 4.3 sight unseen from a guy in Arizona, someone had tore it down and used bathroom silicone on the entire engine when they threw it back together after seeing 1 melted piston and 1 turned into a crumble. Dude said he had no idea that it was like that... mhmm sure and I'll believe that when my shit smells like rainbow sherbert
love the channel and the format. always fun seeing what causes engines to end up cores
To be a core is supposed to mean that it is reconditionable, not scrap.
the peeps you bought this from had it setting outside. and pieced it together so they could sell it to you for more money than its worth
Glad you didn't take a loss but shame on the grubs that sold it as a bad cylinder they had to know there was more wrong. IMHO.
hah, i would have brazed the holes in the liner shut (so that the water keeps in), remowed the pushrods and cutted top of the conrod out in the damaged cylinder, basically making it a V9 :)
would make a sick engine in a somesort of dirtbug etc diy car project
Crazy hack job with that crank pulley bolt situation! Thanks for the great video
Sleeve the block, get somebody who knows what they are doing with a lathe to sort the crank snout, replace the valve seat and that's all fixed then.
was going to say the same, the damage overall seems pretty lite considering a piston went to pieces,
head should be salvageable as well, with a decking and new valve guides and seals
Yup. Fixed far worse working on aftermarket drag bits. Gimme that head, a couple carbides, a TIG welder, and 2 hours. I'll have the crack ground out, filled, and reshaped to match the others. Why are people so afraid to sleeve a block, too? I guess if you take it to an idiot, but then, you could just buy engines from the numbnuts who sold him this one.
@@guerrillaradio9953 Because it would cost more to fix the block, than it would to buy a good used one. I've seen good GTR blocks go for $2500. And it's not wounded to start with.
Typical Dodge owner...gaps their own sparkplugs using the back spine of a competition cutting knife. My dad used to say that, even though he drives Ram 1500's. And has owned a Viper Gen Ii. And a Plymouth Prowler. The Viper was maintenance heavy, dangerous and my mom wouldn't let me and my sister ride in it. I rode in that car about 10 times and drove it twice. This brings back memories. I did miss your videos. I had blood poisoning amd was down for about a month so I have a few videos to catch up on.
Glad you’re back! Feel better man!
@@I_Do_Cars AMEN!
Man it would be SO SWEET if everything went back to SAE fasteners!🤣
The block would actually make a good coffee table
I bought a cracked block viper engine just for that reason.
@@BruceLee-xn3nn you could have just bought a dodge V10 truck engine as the blocks are the same ...
@@unclejoe6811 I think the typical Dodge V10 blocks are cast iron, except for the SRT, and that Viper blocks are aluminum.
Those are generally ugly and you just gave yourself something incredibly heavy and awkward that won't want to move.
@@michaelscott-joynt3215 Yet there are some that do want a unique piece of furniture. I myself took the backseat out of a late 80s Chrysler New Yorker, and am turning that into a couch.
About SAE sockets: I had a truck that had the annoying feature of some parts being metric, and some parts being SAE. It wasn't a rebuilt wreck, it came like that from the factory.
what about the Triton v10 from ford
Sounds like fun, because some of them had the notorious 3 valve design. However, since those didn't have the VVT system that was annoying on the V8 variant, maybe they weren't so bad...
Except for those stupid spark plugs.
You are lucky you got one of those to tear down.. That must have been pulled out by a NON-dealer or warranty work or something? Any of those that came into through my brothers scrap yard, typically in lots of 50 to a 100, would then be over seen by a certified person, to verify that every single unit was shredded, and not torn apart for parts or sold off as rebuildable units for sale? I suspect that was to rule out any possible chance that the rumor would get out that there was any issue with the V-10 units? and they ended up rectifying the issue in a new revision drop in engine power plant, but the my brother said that over 2500 V-10 power plants over a 5 year period had been shredded. some new looking, some looking like they came out of a 1983 Ford Thunderbird with oil crud build up everywhere.. Clever engines in my opinion, even with the issues they had... plus, they sound cool too...
People obtain money through inheritance or the lottery , drugs or theft and they’re used to working on Voyagers not Vipers . That’s my guess on the hack job . I’d like to know the REAL story.
Products like these that you can count their serial numbers on your fingers and toes should be treasured and treated well. The cockroach that destroyed this engine does not deserve to own nice things like this engine was.
I wish I could take stuff apart like this every day and do it as a living. It’s always fun finding out what happened to stuff or just to see how the engine was maintained.
That V10 is from a Ram. Thermostat housing and exhaust manifolds and oil pan tell me that. Given it's an 8.3 V10 and came with a manual trans that would make it the earlier SRT-10 Ram.
wow. huge news if true.
Oh good. 12 baskets in a case.
And clearly after being treated the way it was, it decided to end its own life to escape the suffering.
I just found your channel and have been binge watching for the last few days. It is great to learn bit by bit from your knowledge. It is also great to see what the rods, lifters, rocker arms, valves, pistons, bores, etc look like in different scenarios. Thanks for uploading.
i also found this channel a few days ago and damn... awesome content
Connecting Rod, "I am Ironman!" Piston, "See you later, I'm outta here."
yeah, Ironman's planned rivalry with The Aluminum Pounder never did pan out to much... They probably should have consulted with a metallurgist.
You might get money for the block from an owner that is planning on building a big power TT Viper, they put darton sleeves in them so the damaged bores aren't an issue. Crank bolt hole will clean up fine too.
Believe it or not the valve seat land in the head can be welded & machined to accept a new valve seat & remachined as long as he head isn't cracked & the guide area isn't toast as well.
Depends on the resources & money one wants to spend.
I didn't know Darton made Viper sleeves, but I have seen photos of re-sleeved Viper blocks.
Here's a cool coffee table idea. Take one of your slightly used low mileage gems that has a window or 2 punched out and obliterates pistons and do your best to put the pistons back together with JB Weld and other low value parts to assemble a non stuck short block (with windows).
Yes. Put a crank or something on the balancer to turn it over. That would be cool
and maybe attach the crank to the top of the table so you can turn the engine over by turning the table
That block might make for a good meat smoker Eric... 😜😜😜
@The Bike Bodger slant 5. Lol
What makes hack jobs the worst is when the seller doesn't tell you about their garbage work on the parts. I had thought the worst was a donor engine I bought that had some flywheel bolts cross threaded. They sent it home with an impact, and I ended up drilling it out of there : | That was until I bought a used ecu harness and the seller never mentioned he cut a downstream O2 sensor wire instead of just replacing that sensor and had one of those performance modules hooked up.. I discovered that when it threw codes for open maf circuit. He just cut off a wire and taped it all up with electrical tape. /rant lmao
The crank bolt situation gives a good insight into where the other issues came from.
'You've already got one on the other side, what do you need two (headgaskets) for anyways?'
Ahahahaha, take a sub, sir
Great video! We got a slow mo, a debrisss and that sweet lubricant. That crank bolt though, mint.
Wow. I tore down my viper engine at 50000 miles (which is high for these motors) and it looked brand new. The fact this engine is so dirty inside and out makes me wonder how many miles were on it... Very interesting video Eric. Great job as always
180K on mine (Ram SRT) and it looks nowhere near as bad. Not brand new for sure. I could have probably been better with my oil change frequency. But still smooth running (as smooth as that firing order can get) and all of the valve cover paint intact.
Probably was racing it with 130k and a failed head gasket
Am I the only on that is completely enamored by just how simple this engine is? I could only wish a Nissan VQ was this simple.
funny how brilliant (and insanely,brutally powerful) a single cam in block ,pushrod engine can be.....see the modern LS for reference
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 oh I completely understand. Just a lover of a Nissan 6 cylinder love the sound of them. But if you wanna get real simple, the Ford flat head.
@@PSWii360onBaSS A Jeep Hurricane 134 makes the Ford Flathead look like an intricate puzzle.
@@PSWii360onBaSS not really, plus running the exhaust all the way from the valley to the outside of the v, *through the block* .....isn't a good way to cool down an engine that already had inherent cooling problems.
And that's why ardun got in the business of making hemi head conversions for them. A effort to get them to last in heavy trucks.
Literally other than that piston, rod, and valve, oh and that one pushrod, everything else is salvageable. It is an open deck sleeved block. If it punched through the sleeve and through the block behind it, you can easily weld a patch in the block and put new sleeves in it. And a machine shop can easily drill out the rest of that Bolt, and then rethread for a larger size, weld up and recut the threads, or some kind of strong Helicoil.
Nah, a good used block would be cheaper and stronger. Put a supercharger on that repaired crank, and you'd probably snap the snout off of it. That shit is scrap.
Would love to see a 2.0 tdi vw engine
Would that be the 2.0 PD TDI in the 2005 and 2006 Passat, or the 2.0 CRD TDI found in later VW models?
He might be able to find a 2.0 PD TDI worth his time, many people gave up on their B5.5 Passat because the engine needed a new cam, cam buckets, and balance shaft module.
@@skylinefever I wanna see the newer common rail diesels, something like a CJAA
"I hear crunchy stuff".. "lets keep going"....glad to see its not just me when bad things come into the shop, it just kind of makes you wanna "help" it out a little....
Good to see Adam Sandler staying busy in between movies. Man, I could tear down engines for a living. I just can't put them back together.
I think that 0W-0 oil was to blame for all this. Those V9 engines are badass
🤣
Why is the block bad? Can a wet sleeve be pressed into the ten bores that have been clearanced for the pistons? and then machined to the correct bore
None of the plugs could be from that engine. It’s possible that they just grabbed crap out of the trash to fill up the holes to keep the gremlins from escaping.
What I would have liked to hear is the backstory about the engine itself. How did it come to you as just an engine? Most of the time, engines come with cars, but especially a Viper. The valve covers looked like they have been sitting in the elements for years without a car. the Viper is one of my favorite cars, and I just can't imagine anyone doing this to a Viper.
Dodge V10's tend to eat themselves.....especially with poor maintenance. Great Vid bro.
Adjustable piston??
I've got 210k miles on mine. Only problem I've had was a rodent chewing the wires off of an injector.
The iron ones are stone axe reliable.
It's a seat delete. I don't know why you'll get rid of the seat"
love these engines - great vid!
That is so totally rebuildable.
Ok so some machining and new parts are required. But seriously it's not totally junk.
I'm sure there's a market for reman viper engines.
😆 Youd have more into fixing the block, than it would be to buy a good one. That shit is GARBAGE.
@@davelowets a new cylinder sleeve and bore hone job is pretty cheap
@@indyrock8148 So is a good used block.. Why fuck with garbage?
I enjoy the manner you present: calm with humor thrown in. A pleasure every time i watch you.
Could be re-sleeved possibly. Not knowing anything about Viper engines my thought is if the crank bolt is reverse thread, that might be how it got broke cause the guy didn't know that and just put the longest cheater bar to it and gave it hell.
Love seeing the details of these teardowns. I wish I had grown up knowing engines, but I've learned o work on bike engines!
Just remember one thing when you are buying used/classic cars or car parts like this...there is NO SUCH THING as a "car guy brotherhood". If words are coming out of a seller's mouth, THEY ARE LYING TO YOU...PERIOD! That is the mentality you must ALWAYS have when buying used cars/parts. If you can't confirm something WITH YOUR OWN EYES, then DON'T BELIEVE IT! Trust me. I am lucky to have learned this lesson at age 18, even though I learned it the hard way when I bought a 1970 SS Chevelle long distance. I'm fortunate that I only paid $14,000 for the car and not something like $24,000 because it was a worthless Bondo bucket. The only silver lining is that it was the car on which I learned how to do body and restoration work because it was such a POS.
I just want to make sure that EVERYBODY understands what I am saying here. It DOESN'T MATTER WHO the seller is. Even if it is a supposedly "reputable" person or ESPECIALLY a dealership. THEY WILL ALL LIE TO YOU in order to get out from under a POS car that they overpaid for. Far too many people believe that a dealership "isn't allowed to lie" in their ads or descriptions about classic cars, so they believe every word in the ad and then overpay for fake SS cars or worthless Bondo buckets. It still shocks me how many people think that if a dealership advertises something as a "real 1970 SS Chevelle" that it MUST be true. There have been so many "real SS cars" with FAKE build sheets and re-stamped engines sold as "real SS cars" by classic car dealers, and if you get stuck with one, there is usually NO legal recourse...it's "buyer beware" and YOU bought the car so now you're stuck with it! I will NEVER understand why ANYONE would ever buy a classic car from a stealership...but countless people do.
As a fellow Missourian, Your midwestern sarcasm resonates with me.
nice im from mid mo as well
That came from a SRT-10 Ram because of the manifolds on it, the vipers exhaust manifold is tubular and dumps at the center.
A automotive machinist that's worth their salt should be able to extract that broken pulley bolt. Worst case would be a thread insert. Grind undersize, and usable crank.
Yea, I was gonna say, there are a few tricks to get this done and to trash an otherwise very expensive crank seems like a waste, not like there are a ton of Viper cranks laying around.
Dan's Learning Curve: ↗
My learning curve: \____
could also just make a mailbox post out of it and go grab a crank for a 3/4 ton or 1 ton V10 Dodge Ram. Same basic engine.
@@TestECull If you want a cast crank in your Viper engine, sure. I'd want the forged Viper crank though... The heads are different on the Viper also, and truck heads won't bolt onto a Viper block without work either. There are quite a few differences between the truck and the car motor.
@@davelowets They dont exactly rev very high and they dont run boost so a forged crank isnt critical. Cast will be fine.
Looks like you might have a compression issue on that one cylinder.
The sheer audacity of that crank boit hack is kind of impressive. Like you said, I'd consider it on a junk Corolla but not a goddamn Viper engine
A good machine shop can repair the cam & crank. I used to outsource blocks to a company who step-lined them. What they did is remove the entire damaged cylinder to the water jacket, then they machined a 3mm step into the top of the block, & inserted a liner to the original bore size, providing the rest of the cylinders were within specs. If not, the rest of the cylinders were bored to oversize, & the required size sleeve/liner was fitted to suit. Pull down a Mercedes M117-986 engine. These are the 4.52 litre OHC V8.
Im always amazed when manufactures decide to make cast aluminum oil pans. they aren't any lighter than pressed aluminum or even pressed steel and they are way more prone to getting irreparably damaged.
Structural. Helps stiffen the block.
@@craigquann yea with the amount of crank weight lol it needs all the strength it can get
planned obsolescence.
They have really nice fins…if they have fins. No point in a cast aluminum pan if it isn't finned.
I had a couple of cars that had barrel crankcases. The main bearing caps were integral with the lower blocks. Nevertheless they had cast aluminum pans with really pretty fins.
They will remove a lot of heat from the oil, also.
Subscribed for your hatred towards that disgusting Bosch spark plug :D although I believe they belong in the bin not the street corner, less chance of hurting anyone :D although..... I'd throw Champions in the same bin and use NGKs personally :P
That crank should be fine and can be repaired with the hole drilled, filled and re-centered. No biggie, that bolt is just a retainer for the HB.
Until you decide to put a supercharger on it, and then break the crank snout off. I'd SCRAP it.
@@MAGGOT_VOMIT 🙄Who's dumb? After you've drilled out, welded up, and retapped the crank, it WILL be weaker than an undamaged crank. In a supercharger application it's not the bolt that breaks, it's the entire crank snout that ends up breaking off. One would NEVER want to use a damaged crank in a supercharger motor. Wise up son, before you call someone with more intelligence and more experience than you "Stupid". 🤦🏻
@@davelowets Filling and Drilling correctly would never cause that to happen, Junior. Maybe one day you'll become old enough to see enough of them repaired correctly at a REAL machine-shop, that NEVER break off at the so-called "snout", JUNIOR!!
What an amateur!! 😆😂🤣
@@MAGGOT_VOMIT Bullshit. An undamaged one will ALWAYS be stronger than a repaired one. Obviously you have no experience with crank driven superchargers, or else you'd know better. A "real machine shop" wouldn't attempt to repair a crank with that kind of damage in a supercharger motor either. If it's a "real" shop, they would know better also. I can totally see some hack try to repair it though..
@@MAGGOT_VOMIT Here's some more free, helpful, advice... Quit thumbing your own comments, it makes one look desperate for approval.
There’s another 2000 viper v10 engine and transmission on Facebook marketplace in Chapin,SC for 8,800$
16,xxx miles. stock and “running”.
That block could be saved with a sleeve, may not be a streetable engine. But, i'm sure if you cemented the cooling passages in the block, and stuffed a sleeve in there, it would be a good race block
Not a bad idea until you build the engine to last 100 laps and it expires on lap 99. I really like the idea but not with my luck.
As long as none of the aluminum casting is damaged the block is 100% salvageable with new cylinder sleeves.
@@christianmeeks4430 Give it to Alan Millyard and he'll make it a V-12 and it'll look like it's factory all with a hacksaw and some fresh biscuits.
@@tihspidtherekciltilc5469 And a nice cup of tea.
Sand blast those valve covers, tape up he VIPER text, repaint cover Viper Red.
Or even sell them sand blasted and ready for painting so the new owner can paint it what ever color they want.
"Everything is off the table" **clearly has engine sitting on the table** I LOL'd
There is a reason they quit making those v-10's. Mopar never could get the quality and reliability out of them. Later year trucks that had them suffered from broken cranks. The new "hemi's" also are prone to issues, mainly from sludge because people don't understand the oil change requirement and value of using good oil and filters.
there must be something with this block that i don't understand. if it only has one F__ked up cylinder, why cant it be sleeved? A 97 to 02 gen2 block will easily fetch $4000
Seeing that engine as it came apart I envisioned a story of probably a lot of normal use, then someone bought the car and started drag racing it, then decided that it needed nitrous (third owner?)...which dropped the seat. Piston may have come apart as it was already being shut down, crushing the hopes and dreams of the rod and pin to escape the confines of the block.
Coil packs hidden under the intake manifold? And my stepdaughter's Avenger has the battery inside the left front fender. Chrycrap.
So overheated, dropped a seat, wiped the piston and locked the engine. Snapped the crank bolt trying to free it up. Realize they completely fucked the engine, threw it back together and now it's your problem.
The engine looks huge! More like a big truck diesel than e.g. a LS.
My 5.7 Hemi dropped a seat and it never overheated and was babied. I'll never buy a Chrysler product again.
These things have been dogged to death. That's why you have them to work on. You never see a Viper for sale that is in great condition. Either you have ones that actually knows the value of $ and how much the bitch costs, or you have the total idiots who don't give a shit. Interesting videos anyway.
Pulls valve cover off side with missing head gasket and head bolts and says sarcastically...
*" Well I kinda guessed this head had been off because well someone had to get the head gasket outta there somehow. We don't need those. It's already got one on the other side - why do you need two for?"*
RIP V10. You were a great engine once. Someone was very proud to assemble that engine. It deserved better.
260K views, got your money back for it. so, win win!
what a waste of a nice and a somewhat rare and expensive engine .doesn't surprise me but it's a shame. I realize it could have just failed and someone obviously tore into it to see the problem then reassembled it. it appears they didn't put the head gasket on because it is fucked .you may be able to sleeve it but I doubt that turd is worth the effort and money?
Another truck engine. Different oil pan and exhaust manifolds from the car. Not that they are that different internally, but could be used in a much different way than it would in a car.