That’s funny my old Chrysler had one of those in it, went through 4 radiators due to a blown head gasket interesting to see how it would look torn down.
Started with your channel and about 10 people. My how you have grown. Very proud of your channel ideas. i.e. no loud music, no sponsor junk, just tear downs. Also, I admire your business ethics. Don’t sell crap! Hope to see you become a RUclips mega star one day. Be safe. Peace
I'd love to see like a "shop tour" video, during a normal working day, so we can see how the shop works, and what goes on, also the guys that work there. Then transition into a teardown? What do you think? *Fan from England * 😁 Luke
The loose screws on the outside can happen because of the heat. If gasoline burned, it's over 900 celsius fire. At that temperature, alloy looses any heat treatment properties it had. I'm honestly amazed that you got a good looking engine core in the end. I'd be very interested in seeing a shop clean this and build this into a normal engine and see how it fares. Considering it got unevenly heated and then rapidly cooled, there's a good chance it's hiding some interesting internal stresses in that casting. I wonder if with normal operation heat cycles they'll Dissipate or will they end up utimately warping the engine. This is like a science project. I have apsolutely no use for it but I would love to follow the journey of this block, maybe even buy it if I lived in Freedomistan and try to take it for a journey my self. Make a Pontiac Phoenix LS swap to make it appropriate.
thats what i was thinking, especially considering head bolts are torque to yield. when brought to such a high temperature it basically annealed them, relaxing all of that tension and removing the clamping force they had on the head. and also yes, im sure that block is sure to have some stresses and warping at least on the thinner features like the unsupported portions of the cylinder walls and the rods themselves.
Cooked gaskets can have the same effect. (Basically the gasket material burns away). With high temperatures the bolts can also get longer and lose temper (which is why reusing bolts under these conditions is a particularly bad idea).
I agree with the thought process, but there isn't that much gasoline at the engine. A little in the fuel lines and what not, but the fuel pump didn't keep running fueling the inferno. Once it get going it was probably mainly a big plastics fire. Still nasty, but I dont think plastic burns as hot as gasoline. I would love to see what the future holds for this block. If it really did get that hot it could develop some interesting inspection ports in the near future! LOL
My wife has a 3.6L Pentastar and I've got a 5.7L Hemi (post 2009 when HP was bumped to 370)... We both watch your videos together every Saturday night and either one would be a HUGE hit!
We often use the metaphor “cooked” but in this case it literally IS cooked. I hate cleaning up cars after fires. Nothing like sifting thru crispy wiring to see what needs to be replaced.
Throwing away that twisted plastic on the top of the engine reminds me of an old Far Side cartoon: Surgeons are scrubbed in on an operation around a patient when an unidentifiable organ goes shooting up in the air. "Whoa! Watch where that goes! We may need that thing!"
6am here on the East Coast. The house is asleep and i have my tea in hand watching this goofball have fun for us. This is a good morning. Keep your stick on the ice fellow gearheads.
Bro, your humor is on fire. You're going to get flamed for cutting the wiring. This is a nice soot-uation to be in. I'm going to go blaze and keep watching.
I really enjoy watching these engine teardowns. It's interesting to see how the engineers have solved or ignored or created issues by design. I went through the teardown history and I don't see a 3rd generation VW EA888 1.8L engine. That's the one I'd really like to see. The 1st gen EA888s were notorious for intake valve buildup and turbo oiling/cooling issues. The 3rd gen has those issues solved and it's got some interesting features like the integral exhaust headers, liquid cooled turbocharger and othersm. Please teardown a 3rd generation 1.8L VW EA888!
I say tear down the engine how ever you want to. People get butt hurt over nothing. I like how you drain your engine, and I like your push rod puller technique.
I have watched a bunch of your prior teardowns...this is the first where the bottom end is staying intact. As you said burn rigs are a gamble but I would say you won on this one quite nicely:-)
Glad you came out good on the burn job. I lost a fresh built 350/350 in a house fire years ago and there was nothing useable. It came to rest on it's nose and everything on the high end was black and blue.
I wonder if it is something to do with the heat of the fire has caused the head bolts to back off a bit. Would have set up some interesting expansion and contraction cycles, depending on how the fire was extinguished.
@@robrayne9144 yea, I could see them doing a compression test, seeing the low numbers and doing as you said. The head bolts not being torqued down enough could easily cause major compression issues.
These GM small blocks are delightfully simple and terrific runners. I had an '04 6.0 that was a gas guzzler but did everything I needed. Absolutely terrific design.
I drive a 2016 2500 HD with the 6.0, solid engine with plenty of power and at 155k miles plenty of reliability, though it's a work truck that receives religious maintenance.
Glad you came out good! What really surprises me is the head gasket hadn't blown with the bolts that loose. I suspect the heads had been off before and the "mekanec" didn't own a torque wrench. He might have messed up a fuel line, that could explain the entire truck over heating. Here's a question, how often have you seen a LS with a blown head gasket?
The dry rocker suggests a faulty lifter as oil feeds up through the pushrod (or not in that case). Surprised you didn't look a bit more closely at the lifter on that lobe/pushrod/rocker.
Really love your content. The videos are awesome and I hope you get more subscribers, this is a hidden gem for sure! Your BMW collection is incredible.
Hey fun facts for those in the back that don’t know. Those head bolts heat up in a fire and stretch slightly. However if they cool too fast like let’s say a fire truck hits it with the hose. It will cool and stay stretched and seem loose.
With such inconsistent torques on those head bolts, have to wonder if the owner just had the engine serviced and the tech that put it back together was sloppy in more than just spec's.
Heat can do that though, I've had a 5.4 with 25,000 miles on it that was on fire and the headbolts were all different torque, some almost even finger tight, Pretty sure the heat of the fire just warped the aluminum head or even stretched the head bolts some.
I think that's possible. Also, head bolts come out a lot easier if they were torqued down recently as opposed to after a couple hundred thousand miles of heat cycles..
Not sure how I ever ended up here but I'm an appliance repair guy. What you need is one of the catch pans that you put under a washer if they leak. I think your whole engine kart would fit inside it amd would catch all the nastyness that runs out.
We've bought a few burned engines and had pretty good luck using them in stuff that needed an engine. I always re torque the head bolts and check the bottom end. BTW that Tahoe PPV is pretty sweet!
When my dad was a truck driver, he was in Minnesota in winter. My dad ran his truck all night because being from Florida, he didn't have an engine heater and he knew not to let the engine get cold and freeze. Well the guy next to him didn't listen. But that guy decided to light a trash fire under the engine. He got the engine block good and warmed up alright. He heated the oil pan up so much that the oil pan exploded off the bottom of the engine, caught everything else on fire and torched the front of the cab. It was so cold they couldn't get the water hoses to pump, so they literally got a snow blower and blew snow all over the engine to put the fire out.
the heat from the fire may have cause the bolts to expand and when it cold it down it shrunk think of how you use a torch to help remove a stuck bolt with out snapping it
Wild guess on the headbolts: Being a TTY bolt, I imagine the expansion of the engine while it was being roasted Yielded the bolts more- and being a TTY bolt.. they never contracted like the rest of the engine did.
Been a gm tech for over 13 years now, I've seen the ends of the pushrods look like that for no rhyme or reason, some with high mileage, some with low mileage. On perfect running engines with great oil pressure.
Another great teardown! On an LS, the rear rods and mains actually get oil first. The oil flows from the pump straight back to the oil filter, then to the lifter galleries and off the lifter galleries to the rods and mains rear to front. Oiling issues will usually show towards the front of the engine first. Love the see a Ford 6.2L or an Isuzu 4HK1 diesel (NPR/NRR/NQR) teardown.
I brought back a 540 bowtie motor that got so hot the Holley dominator melted ,dripped through the supercharger rotors and a few slags ended up in the heads. Ended up with better head to block deck seal then my decked 502 stroker. Guess you could call it "heat treating" . Its nasty ,but don't be scared of the burnt ones lol
excessive heat changes material structure, so I think that's fine that bolts were loose. They just overheated, extended, and left in that condition. Potentially there could be any random issues with the engine, but I don't want to predict anything, I hope it'll work at least a million mile more. Decent, reliable engine.
Very nice Content ! I watch every Video. The Headbolts might have gotten hot over a long period of time ... They loose Tension when heated to high for to long. Also i think the driverside was not on fire that heavy and therefore the driverside bolts havent got that hot.
Looks like the fire was hot enough to destroy anything plastic/rubber while not being hot enough to damage anything metal. That entire engine is probably rebuildable honestly. Sure all the gaskets and such need to be replaced, and it needs cleaned up.
I tried to comment this earlier but RUclips wasn’t letting me, LS engines lube from back to front, even though the 7&8 rods are farthest from the oil pump they are the first to get oil. Oil goes to the filter before going anywhere else.
that little rust stain will never hurt any thing ! I bought a used motor for my '01 Ford F150 ,That had sat outside for 6 years without exhaust manifolds on it for $300) pulled the heads and there was a slight rust stain on 4 cylinders that the exhaust valves were open , Put new head gaskets in and head bolts as there toque to yield, 100 K its still running strong ,) for oil consumption 1/2 Qt in 3000 miles !!
12:30 Good example of why I like to run pushrod engines at about 4-5k RPM for 15 seconds or so after doing major work requiring new pushrods and/or rockers once they have had some time to break in. Stops the pushrods from just staying in one spot and scuffing real bad like that. They need the high RPM to ensure they actually rotate around like they should, otherwise it tears up the ball and seat.
This engine has an Iron block with alloy heads as does the LQ9 both are good engines to start a performance build with. But If I was going to do a stroker such as a 408 build, my L77 would be a good place to start as I prefer all alloy engines. 😎🇦🇺👍
The top of my wishlist is a teardown of a runaway diesel.
“Externally overheated” nice 👍 😂 keep up the content I’m still waiting on a 3.6 pentastar yo
I have a core coming back soon!
Right on im getting anxious buddy lol
Hell yeah now that's a good suggestion
I'm sure there is PLENTY of those cores around. Pentajunk
That’s funny my old Chrysler had one of those in it, went through 4 radiators due to a blown head gasket interesting to see how it would look torn down.
Started with your channel and about 10 people. My how you have grown. Very proud of your channel ideas. i.e. no loud music, no sponsor junk, just tear downs. Also, I admire your business ethics. Don’t sell crap! Hope to see you become a RUclips mega star one day. Be safe. Peace
My Saturday night engine tear-down fix. And it's a HOT one!
I'd love to see like a "shop tour" video, during a normal working day, so we can see how the shop works, and what goes on, also the guys that work there. Then transition into a teardown? What do you think?
*Fan from England * 😁
Luke
Yeah awesome channel. I bet there's quite a few of us from Blighty on here ;)
@@KangoV hello England friend 👋🏼
Even when its half-dead, the dipstick is always the most difficult fight in a teardown.
The dipstick is clearly Eric's mortal enemy.
@@crazieman Eric and dipsticks are like Sideshow Bob and rakes.
The LS is easy tho, it breaks off at the o-ring just past the exterior which lets you push the remainder inwards with the right sized drift.
Everything I see about the LQ4 makes me glad I've got an LQ4 in my '03 truck.
The loose screws on the outside can happen because of the heat. If gasoline burned, it's over 900 celsius fire. At that temperature, alloy looses any heat treatment properties it had. I'm honestly amazed that you got a good looking engine core in the end. I'd be very interested in seeing a shop clean this and build this into a normal engine and see how it fares. Considering it got unevenly heated and then rapidly cooled, there's a good chance it's hiding some interesting internal stresses in that casting. I wonder if with normal operation heat cycles they'll Dissipate or will they end up utimately warping the engine. This is like a science project. I have apsolutely no use for it but I would love to follow the journey of this block, maybe even buy it if I lived in Freedomistan and try to take it for a journey my self.
Make a Pontiac Phoenix LS swap to make it appropriate.
thats what i was thinking, especially considering head bolts are torque to yield. when brought to such a high temperature it basically annealed them, relaxing all of that tension and removing the clamping force they had on the head. and also yes, im sure that block is sure to have some stresses and warping at least on the thinner features like the unsupported portions of the cylinder walls and the rods themselves.
Nice ponka pfp
Cooked gaskets can have the same effect. (Basically the gasket material burns away).
With high temperatures the bolts can also get longer and lose temper (which is why reusing bolts under these conditions is a particularly bad idea).
I agree with the thought process, but there isn't that much gasoline at the engine. A little in the fuel lines and what not, but the fuel pump didn't keep running fueling the inferno. Once it get going it was probably mainly a big plastics fire. Still nasty, but I dont think plastic burns as hot as gasoline. I would love to see what the future holds for this block. If it really did get that hot it could develop some interesting inspection ports in the near future! LOL
That was my guess too.
It's crazy how much I look forward to your videos dropping. Thank You!
This is a clear example of the difference between "in a fire" and "on fire" ...
Holy crap! That many wires? I'm gobsmacked!
I've been robbed! I love the sound of the head bolts breaking loose. Totally deprived:-)
"There are several degrees of engines being burned..." I see what you did there 😀
My wife has a 3.6L Pentastar and I've got a 5.7L Hemi (post 2009 when HP was bumped to 370)... We both watch your videos together every Saturday night and either one would be a HUGE hit!
He commented that he has a 3.6 pentastar core coming soon!
Never gets old watching you tear engines apart, bro.
We often use the metaphor “cooked” but in this case it literally IS cooked. I hate cleaning up cars after fires. Nothing like sifting thru crispy wiring to see what needs to be replaced.
Throwing away that twisted plastic on the top of the engine reminds me of an old Far Side cartoon: Surgeons are scrubbed in on an operation around a patient when an unidentifiable organ goes shooting up in the air. "Whoa! Watch where that goes! We may need that thing!"
CONGRATULATIONS ERIC! You hit 100,000 subscribers!
6am here on the East Coast. The house is asleep and i have my tea in hand watching this goofball have fun for us. This is a good morning. Keep your stick on the ice fellow gearheads.
Congrats on 100k!! Been watching the channel since 15k I believe. Love every video and have learned a lot! Keep up the great work 👊
Always like this channel.
subtle humor and It’s good to see how seriously you take your work.
This channel is the only reason i get on RUclips anymore
I have that same engine in my GMC 2005 2500hd, just rebuilt it after 238,000 miles because it bent a rod.
Great motor.
Bro, your humor is on fire. You're going to get flamed for cutting the wiring. This is a nice soot-uation to be in. I'm going to go blaze and keep watching.
Glad you are wearing gloves, fire damage can leave nasty stuff behind
Good point. Gloves advised on any fluids or their offspring.
You should make a video on how much (ballpark) short blocks, heads or cranks go from junkyard. that would help people avoid being taken advantage of.
I really enjoy watching these engine teardowns. It's interesting to see how the engineers have solved or ignored or created issues by design. I went through the teardown history and I don't see a 3rd generation VW EA888 1.8L engine. That's the one I'd really like to see. The 1st gen EA888s were notorious for intake valve buildup and turbo oiling/cooling issues. The 3rd gen has those issues solved and it's got some interesting features like the integral exhaust headers, liquid cooled turbocharger and othersm. Please teardown a 3rd generation 1.8L VW EA888!
I believe most of those motors repurposed as 'Boat Anchors' in deference to expensive rebuilds
I don’t know why I find these videos so interesting but I do so please keep bringing the interesting videos.
Fine job buddy. All the plastic crust stuff popped right off. That engine looks pretty solid. Big Al.
Congrats on 100k, been here since the first 5.0 coyote you did I think. Keep up the awesome work
Thanks! Hard to believe.
I say tear down the engine how ever you want to. People get butt hurt over nothing. I like how you drain your engine, and I like your push rod puller technique.
Yeah, some of the best moments are when he pulls out the hammer, lol...
Congrats on almost 100 000 su subscribers
I have watched a bunch of your prior teardowns...this is the first where the bottom end is staying intact. As you said burn rigs are a gamble but I would say you won on this one quite nicely:-)
Glad you came out good on the burn job. I lost a fresh built 350/350 in a house fire years ago and there was nothing useable. It came to rest on it's nose and everything on the high end was black and blue.
I wonder if it is something to do with the heat of the fire has caused the head bolts to back off a bit. Would have set up some interesting expansion and contraction cycles, depending on how the fire was extinguished.
I bet this engine was "rebuilt" and it came back to the shop and instead of dealing with it, it "accidentally" set on fire
@@robrayne9144 yea, I could see them doing a compression test, seeing the low numbers and doing as you said. The head bolts not being torqued down enough could easily cause major compression issues.
Aluminum expands faster than steel, hence heads stretched the bolts a bit.
Should I give up on the VQ35DE…. If so, never mind. I shall continue to enjoy your presentations.
Never a dull moment.
That's gotta be a lot of fun....Just taking engine's apart, an looking for carnage....Keep the videos coming!
Weld vise grips to a slide hammer. Like a Morgan knocker. For those pesky oil dipsticks. 3/4 black iron couplings are cheap you can make all you want!
These GM small blocks are delightfully simple and terrific runners. I had an '04 6.0 that was a gas guzzler but did everything I needed. Absolutely terrific design.
enjoy watching your teardowns...that being said I prefer this order of teardown as to your previous i.e. timing cover next to last..
Glad you're making more videos
I drive a 2016 2500 HD with the 6.0, solid engine with plenty of power and at 155k miles plenty of reliability, though it's a work truck that receives religious maintenance.
300K [with minor oil leaks] is well within the realm of your good upkeep, Trans can last that long with 100k filter/fluid changes in normal use.
Congrats on the 100k!
Glad you came out good!
What really surprises me is the head gasket hadn't blown with the bolts that loose.
I suspect the heads had been off before and the "mekanec" didn't own a torque wrench.
He might have messed up a fuel line, that could explain the entire truck over heating.
Here's a question, how often have you seen a LS with a blown head gasket?
Always look forward to a new video being posted. Any chance you will ever tear down, a 6.2 Raptor engine? :-)
congrats for your 100k subscribers, now the next milestone is 1m
The top of the engine looks like a bad horror movie prop. Great video, thanks.
The dry rocker suggests a faulty lifter as oil feeds up through the pushrod (or not in that case). Surprised you didn't look a bit more closely at the lifter on that lobe/pushrod/rocker.
Really love your content. The videos are awesome and I hope you get more subscribers, this is a hidden gem for sure! Your BMW collection is incredible.
Hey fun facts for those in the back that don’t know. Those head bolts heat up in a fire and stretch slightly. However if they cool too fast like let’s say a fire truck hits it with the hose. It will cool and stay stretched and seem loose.
With such inconsistent torques on those head bolts, have to wonder if the owner just had the engine serviced and the tech that put it back together was sloppy in more than just spec's.
Heat can do that though, I've had a 5.4 with 25,000 miles on it that was on fire and the headbolts were all different torque, some almost even finger tight, Pretty sure the heat of the fire just warped the aluminum head or even stretched the head bolts some.
You saw the melted plastic? No way did anyone work on the top end.
I think that's possible. Also, head bolts come out a lot easier if they were torqued down recently as opposed to after a couple hundred thousand miles of heat cycles..
That red ZJ looks good! The SN95 next to it is cool too!
Not sure how I ever ended up here but I'm an appliance repair guy. What you need is one of the catch pans that you put under a washer if they leak. I think your whole engine kart would fit inside it amd would catch all the nastyness that runs out.
We've bought a few burned engines and had pretty good luck using them in stuff that needed an engine. I always re torque the head bolts and check the bottom end. BTW that Tahoe PPV is pretty sweet!
How come the top end looked so clean and seemed like the oil was changed frequently but then the oil pan had sludge? Am I missing something here?
You peeling off all the melted plastic was oddly satisfying lol
That engine sounds well done.
When my dad was a truck driver, he was in Minnesota in winter. My dad ran his truck all night because being from Florida, he didn't have an engine heater and he knew not to let the engine get cold and freeze. Well the guy next to him didn't listen. But that guy decided to light a trash fire under the engine. He got the engine block good and warmed up alright. He heated the oil pan up so much that the oil pan exploded off the bottom of the engine, caught everything else on fire and torched the front of the cab. It was so cold they couldn't get the water hoses to pump, so they literally got a snow blower and blew snow all over the engine to put the fire out.
There's video of a Canadian highway crew doing exactly that to douse a house fire while waiting on the fire department to arrive.
Still waiting for the 'one time and band clamp' comment.... :D Cheers for another great video.
Excitedly waiting for the next 320i video!
Thank you, I always look forward to your videos!
the heat from the fire may have cause the bolts to expand and when it cold it down it shrunk think of how you use a torch to help remove a stuck bolt with out snapping it
Wild guess on the headbolts: Being a TTY bolt, I imagine the expansion of the engine while it was being roasted Yielded the bolts more- and being a TTY bolt.. they never contracted like the rest of the engine did.
Almost doubled your subs since I joined you. Almost at 100k!
Been a gm tech for over 13 years now, I've seen the ends of the pushrods look like that for no rhyme or reason, some with high mileage, some with low mileage. On perfect running engines with great oil pressure.
Diptsticks will be DIPSTICKS! Look forward to your videos. Thanks!
Another great teardown! On an LS, the rear rods and mains actually get oil first. The oil flows from the pump straight back to the oil filter, then to the lifter galleries and off the lifter galleries to the rods and mains rear to front. Oiling issues will usually show towards the front of the engine first. Love the see a Ford 6.2L or an Isuzu 4HK1 diesel (NPR/NRR/NQR) teardown.
I brought back a 540 bowtie motor that got so hot the Holley dominator melted ,dripped through the supercharger rotors and a few slags ended up in the heads. Ended up with better head to block deck seal then my decked 502 stroker. Guess you could call it "heat treating" . Its nasty ,but don't be scared of the burnt ones lol
UPO - I love the birth of new terminology
The V8 E39 BMW crank bolts are called the Jesus bolt. I found out why.....LOL.
My volvos 3.2 has been on fire, replaced the wiring harness and cleaned off the fire extinguisher chemicals and she's still running strong
Hello I Do cars,
Definitely hot on the top, but doubt oil temp in the pan got to normal service temp.
Would it be worthwhile to have a bench setup for 24 tooth gen 3s? Where you could just slam an intake on it to see if it runs?
excessive heat changes material structure, so I think that's fine that bolts were loose. They just overheated, extended, and left in that condition. Potentially there could be any random issues with the engine, but I don't want to predict anything, I hope it'll work at least a million mile more. Decent, reliable engine.
i really hope that ZJ in the back is okay. that looks really clean
Very nice Content ! I watch every Video.
The Headbolts might have gotten hot over a long period of time ... They loose Tension when heated to high for to long. Also i think the driverside was not on fire that heavy and therefore the driverside bolts havent got that hot.
"Someone's been in here already!" That's what she said!!
Looks like the fire was hot enough to destroy anything plastic/rubber while not being hot enough to damage anything metal. That entire engine is probably rebuildable honestly. Sure all the gaskets and such need to be replaced, and it needs cleaned up.
Ya know, a good salvage guy would have been able to save that harness. Great video, keep up the awesome work, thank you
These are my favorite videos on RUclips. I’d love to see a W10 or W11 out of the R50-R53 Mini Coopers if you ever get one
I’ll I see is the 98 Cobra. Looking forward to the updates on that car!
Congrats on 100k subs!
Thank you!!
I tried to comment this earlier but RUclips wasn’t letting me, LS engines lube from back to front, even though the 7&8 rods are farthest from the oil pump they are the first to get oil. Oil goes to the filter before going anywhere else.
I could only imagine how I do car list this engine for sale “ Low miles short block specialty tempered heat treated block” 🤣
That's a cool way to smoothen truck intakes
Yeah you got a good core there, just toasted the intake. Nice score.
AWESOME!
are we ever going to see a Nissan VQ engine teardown? I saw the VR30 tear down from a while back.
I love the work you do
Awesome
Really interesting. I expected any torched engine to be completely ruined, warped, and melty.
I love a happy ending!
that little rust stain will never hurt any thing ! I bought a used motor for my '01 Ford F150 ,That had sat outside for 6 years without exhaust manifolds on it for $300) pulled the heads and there was a slight rust stain on 4 cylinders that the exhaust valves were open , Put new head gaskets in and head bolts as there toque to yield, 100 K its still running strong ,) for oil consumption 1/2 Qt in 3000 miles !!
Man, was really going in hard with that vacuum. 🤣
12:30 Good example of why I like to run pushrod engines at about 4-5k RPM for 15 seconds or so after doing major work requiring new pushrods and/or rockers once they have had some time to break in. Stops the pushrods from just staying in one spot and scuffing real bad like that. They need the high RPM to ensure they actually rotate around like they should, otherwise it tears up the ball and seat.
Looks like you got a good one... good deal!!
Wow that looked worse than it was. I am glad you got some good parts from this engine. 🇨🇦
Oddly satisfying to hear that burnt plastic snap off....
Externally overheated...why would anyone warm up an engine ....oh, lol, someone decided to 're-heat treat' the block, lol, great job, Sir !!!
I feel like you need a bucket that is labeled "trucket bucket" pun fully intended
This review was…fire.
This engine has an Iron block with alloy heads as does the LQ9 both are good engines to start a performance build with.
But If I was going to do a stroker such as a 408 build, my L77 would be a good place to start as I prefer all alloy engines.
😎🇦🇺👍
I need an update on the COBRA 🐍
Those Sve Sc saleen wheels are so nice 🤤
I have lots of car updates coming soon!