I like that Simon keeps everything in his vids and won't just cut a part that doesn't work out in his favor. Great to see the trial and error and the process from beginning to end.
Thats why I also love to watch them. Most of the channels, they don't show failures or they just fabricate a failure to get more "exciteness" on the video. But here i can see this guy tinkering all day long. I also do similar stuff but more with 3D printing and less with RC
It's your thrust angle. The fan is pushing the nose of the boat and board down whilst also pushing forward so you have massive friction and never getting up on plane. Print a new mount with the nose of the ducted fan a few degrees down pushing its thrust up and back. Pushing the stern down. Thats all it will take to get up on plane and then that power will show.
I don't think so: it's the propeller's size. There's a limit to what can you do with a propeller that size, no matter how much power you put in. After a certain point, the propeller starts creating vacuum into which it moves, generating no thrust (i.e. cavitation).
@@StrelitziaLiveries They're not the same phenomena, and it's unlikely that it's either. Why would a manufacturer create a product that will stall or cavitate (somehow) within it's operating parameters?
Just what I wanted to say, I do believe the trust from the props cannot overcome the drag of the body board. Also the trust goes down into the water and I am sure this creates some other type of hydrodynamic drag.
That would be my plan. I used to have a pickle fork hydro and as soon as the bottom starts packing air drag actually decreases and the amount of power required for more mph is much less than any other hull. The back of my boat was out of the water past 75 mph
A tip for the threaded inserts: Push them 90% of the way into the plastic, then push the plastic and threaded insert down onto something flat until the insert is fully inserted. This makes it much easier to have the inserts be flush and aligned with the hole they're going into. It also creates a completely flush mount, and retains the original geometry of the part. They're plenty solid when mounted this way (they pull the plastic out before the interface between the print and the insert fails) and it makes everything look very clean and tidy. The Jubilee 3D Printer project is where I first heard about this method (they called it the 'plate press technique') and I use it any time I need to press an insert into plastic these days.
After an eternity later he Is back and he knows that he has a RUclips channel but I love him.and respect his hard work then any other on RUclips keep it up love from Pakistan
Entertaining video like usual Simon, glad you show how to work through your builds! You figured it out, for an airboat you want a planing design instead of a displacement hull, weight was definitely the issue, less your design. BTW you inspired me, I'm scratch building an electric surfboard :)
The momentum transfer at low speeds for an airscrew is really inefficient, your ducted fan isn’t anywhere near as large as it could be. The high speed of the motor needs to be transferred to slow moving air, and you’d want a very large airscrew for that. But the resulting large prop makes the motor spin slower, which lowers its efficiency, so you might even have to consider gearing. In the water you can use a much smaller screw. If you’re not going to use a water propellor, then I’d act to minimise the friction with the water. A hovercraft would be a conventional example, if you’re ambitious you could make a hydroplaning vessel with automated stability control.
Rule #1 with any performance boat... NO round corners, edges. The water follows a curve rather than break away from a sharp edge. It may not still plane with the weight but you're giving it every chance Simon. Love your work and as mentioned, keep the OOPS moments in!
One thing many young folks never realize is even if you fail you gain practical knowledge. The cool thing is once you go through enough of these exercises you begin to develop an intellect then you can take on a new project and hit the design pretty close on the first attempt. Unfortunately this process usually takes many years but the more of these excersises you do the more advanced you will be in your later years and that's when you truly get to experience the satisfaction and reap the rewards.
Great video! Looks like you were being held back by hydrodynamic drag, with increased power you also increase that drag so your speed hits a maximum. It's all about getting that body out of the water. If your hull has a lifting effect like a powerboat it might have better results.
Me: does Simon not have a bathtub for testing floatation and saving time? Simon: I do, but the on location testing is way cooler. Me: agreed. Keep it up.
Hey Simon, Your hull needs some steps, like speedboats. If u try to to pusch a normal hull at speed though water it acts a bit like a wing and sucks itself to the water. Those steps, 1-3, just google it, help to break the surface tension and enable planing. Switching to the body board actually made it worse in a way, du to a much lager wetted surface.
Yep. Look at Single engine float plane pontoons. they have a step built in to "ventilate" the wetted area of the pontoons decreasing wetted area until you are airborne.
Nice project! my input: tape the bottom with some parcel tape. get the trailing and side edges sharp. If thats not working, run it on a gravel road, its a ton of fun.
In last videos you were displacing water, but this time just air. Thus, you got low speeds and acceleration. Displacing water creates huge force in comparison to displacing air as water has higher mass and force is mass multiplied by acceleration. Although the acceleration would be little low but the decrease in acceleration will be far less than increase in mass when you switch from displacing air to water.
Maybe this info will be of some use. Sorry if it was posted before. There are two types of boats. Planing boats and displacement boats. Planing boats are self explanatory. They skip on the surface of water and their speed is only limited by power - drag. Displacement boats on the other hand are limited by their length. The bow of the boat creates a wave. it rises from the bow and after reaching it's peak it drops toward the stern of the bow. The second the boat reach a speed where the length of the wave is equal to the length of the boat (length of the water line) the stern of the boat falls in to the well created by the end of the wake. No matter how much power you have, if your boat is not planing, it can not go faster than it's theoretical hull speed.
@RcLifeOn The issue you had in the start was likely to do with the spark-free XT90 connector, they have a resistor in the first part of the connector, so you have to connect it properly in order for the power to not go through the resistor when using high power. Also the issue with the first fan not moving the boat fast is that the motor is on top of the boat, meaning the front of the boat is pitched into the water by the force of the motor. This increases resistance more and more until the motor essentially works against itself. The fix would be to angle the motor upwards more.
I have built a few pusher prop type boats from the spare v hull race boats I had laying around and know exactly the problem here...you need to use a flat bottom hull with a near zero draft when boat is floating at full run weight...in theory, you could have used a EDF only 2 inches in diameter and had 5x the performance you got from that behemoth. Basically, your design is akin to building a glider from a aluminum 747 frame....as far as history goes, removing the insane turbine thrust from a 747 at takeoff ends up looking very similar to your boat...with some additional scary consequences....the airfoil, diehdral and weight were designed to do one thing, go really fast in the air or sit parked at the terminal...build a hull designed to 'fly' like a airplane and a airboat will perform like one.
Yup...spot on. Flat bottom and zero draft or near zero draft at idle speeds would equate to near zero drag...the v hull is to allow the submerged prop to stay 'wet', and not a requirement for a EDF pusher... Another error, but not totally related to the problem is the below waterline rudder...needs to be in edf airflow above waterline in order to steer at all, especially at any point below full throttle or so.
You should try to give a few degrees of an angle to the motor axis, so when the boat rises its nose, propeller axis stays close to horizontal. Also this leads the propeller axis pass closer to the gravitational center of the boat, so the force will be lost less as rotational force.
8:15 I've been to the Maldives once and when I saw their water color I said that if I saw that at home, I'd start looking for the leaking chemicals plant up river Your video shows that rather well
Simon.. as usually great ideas... What about to build a boat with foils? It will be fast.. and funnyy! :) I know you can do it! Make this video a present for my birthday! ;)
Great project, If i were building a hull to go fast, i would eliminate some of the drag of the hull with steps (look up stepped hull) that will help to eliminate the hydrodynamic drag of your hull. also if you angle the motor up (propellor facing up slightly) you will modify your angle of attack for the hull. this will give you bow lift, eliminate some drag, and help you up on a plane. this will also help you bow submerge less saving your electronics. If you want to go off the reservation completely, build some hydrofoils, eliminate hull drag by several orders of magnitude
As an aircraft engineer i'm grateful that i'm not the only one screwed by propulsion efficiency for my exam. I noticed a couple of things: first the trust changed the angle of the craft pushing it deep into the water an causing friction. The second one is that you are using all that power to accellerate a lot the air, that's inefficiency because you just are not moving enough of it. I'd try a bigger prop and see if you can install the ducted fan in a nacelle to produce more trust like the one used on jet engine tests on the ground. Bye!
Fun video. Maybe the ducted fan can be used with a hydrofoil? If you can get that up to planing speed. With the fan you won't need the a deep propeller or rudder.
Just do some 3D printed "Steps" in the hull. You will break the surface tension and the thing will take off like a rock getting skipped. All modern, large power boats do it. Like Fountain, Baja, Eliminator... etc.
Hi Simon! why not adding hydrofoil wings to the bodyboard? you can use 4 "v-shape" wings at each corner. This would immediately reduce drag and speed up that thing. You could easily 3d print it. Check out the boat designs from the 60s. Looking forward to see the update and good luck😄🤞🤞🤞
Hey Simon add a foil wing to it it might lift the whole thing and will give you more speed because of lower friction with water. Would be cool to watch you building a wingfoil 👍
Are you sure that you aren't preparing for an RC Torpedo? It sounds like a torpedo, and it's beginning to look like a torpedo. The only thing missing is a BOOM! Are we witnessing the birth of the next Agent Q?
i used to race solar powered rc boats and had the same problems. the problem here seems to be that the surface tension of the water clings on the underside of the large flat board so it cannot get out of the water. you could try and design a much longer, maybe narrower hull for your boat. also, you might want to build in some sort of edge on the underside to break the tension on the water (like the hard edge on the back of speedboats, but more in the middle of the hull). Happy trying!
I have an idea for your project... apply a hydrophobic solution to the bottom of the board. It needs to break tension with the water. The water is slowing it down.
Hey Simon, one big problem you have with the bodyboard is the hidrodinamic, try next time with a soft surface and hidrodinamic forms with the boat or other things you use. To much power and to much break because of hidrodinamics
I like that Simon keeps everything in his vids and won't just cut a part that doesn't work out in his favor. Great to see the trial and error and the process from beginning to end.
If he cut out the stuff that didn't work out in his favour, this video wouldn't exist.
@@bacon.cheesecake This is true. Lol.
Thats why I also love to watch them. Most of the channels, they don't show failures or they just fabricate a failure to get more "exciteness" on the video. But here i can see this guy tinkering all day long. I also do similar stuff but more with 3D printing and less with RC
Specially the water color part
The trial and error is one of the main sources of humour in his vids tbh
i can watch simon do this kind of things all day
Wow
same :)
I likes this things, too.
Me too
It's your thrust angle. The fan is pushing the nose of the boat and board down whilst also pushing forward so you have massive friction and never getting up on plane. Print a new mount with the nose of the ducted fan a few degrees down pushing its thrust up and back. Pushing the stern down. Thats all it will take to get up on plane and then that power will show.
ye that's what i was about to write
I don't think so: it's the propeller's size. There's a limit to what can you do with a propeller that size, no matter how much power you put in. After a certain point, the propeller starts creating vacuum into which it moves, generating no thrust (i.e. cavitation).
@@guillep2k Cavitate the air? rofl
@@TheJPexperience112 Stall in this case
But yes essentially cavitation
@@StrelitziaLiveries They're not the same phenomena, and it's unlikely that it's either.
Why would a manufacturer create a product that will stall or cavitate (somehow) within it's operating parameters?
you could try and 3D Print Hydrofoils to lift it out the water to reduce the drag.
Just what I wanted to say, I do believe the trust from the props cannot overcome the drag of the body board. Also the trust goes down into the water and I am sure this creates some other type of hydrodynamic drag.
Wanted to say this too!
Wanted to say this too!
this!
That would be my plan. I used to have a pickle fork hydro and as soon as the bottom starts packing air drag actually decreases and the amount of power required for more mph is much less than any other hull. The back of my boat was out of the water past 75 mph
Everyone waiting for a new video, while Simon fucks everything up 24/7 and tries very hard to deliver good content.
Thank you bro!
turns out you gotta move a ridiculous amount of air if your boat displaces a few kg of water😂😂😂
That's how you learn the fastest, fail, repeat, success.
A tip for the threaded inserts: Push them 90% of the way into the plastic, then push the plastic and threaded insert down onto something flat until the insert is fully inserted. This makes it much easier to have the inserts be flush and aligned with the hole they're going into. It also creates a completely flush mount, and retains the original geometry of the part. They're plenty solid when mounted this way (they pull the plastic out before the interface between the print and the insert fails) and it makes everything look very clean and tidy.
The Jubilee 3D Printer project is where I first heard about this method (they called it the 'plate press technique') and I use it any time I need to press an insert into plastic these days.
0:59 Already love the editing!
Make a hydroplane/outrigger! Wanna collab? ;)
Yeeeesss
Yes good idea
@@fitchyyboi 9odg9😄😄😄😄😄😄
😄
😄
😄
😆
😄😄😆😄😄
😄😄😄😄
Ekranoplan. It kinda feels like the idea is waning off now but ok.
After an eternity later he
Is back and he knows that he has a RUclips channel but I love him.and respect his hard work then any other on RUclips keep it up love from Pakistan
Entertaining video like usual Simon, glad you show how to work through your builds! You figured it out, for an airboat you want a planing design instead of a displacement hull, weight was definitely the issue, less your design. BTW you inspired me, I'm scratch building an electric surfboard :)
Nice
big&flat, like every airboat ever hehe
@@stephanfree250
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.
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The momentum transfer at low speeds for an airscrew is really inefficient, your ducted fan isn’t anywhere near as large as it could be. The high speed of the motor needs to be transferred to slow moving air, and you’d want a very large airscrew for that. But the resulting large prop makes the motor spin slower, which lowers its efficiency, so you might even have to consider gearing. In the water you can use a much smaller screw. If you’re not going to use a water propellor, then I’d act to minimise the friction with the water. A hovercraft would be a conventional example, if you’re ambitious you could make a hydroplaning vessel with automated stability control.
Rule #1 with any performance boat... NO round corners, edges. The water follows a curve rather than break away from a sharp edge. It may not still plane with the weight but you're giving it every chance Simon. Love your work and as mentioned, keep the OOPS moments in!
Power on that big boy motor next 😈
Every time you are testing near the propellers I hold my breath 😅
First
I like how each step in the process gets this closer and closer to a swamp boat/fan boat.
U should try some back flaps to reduce the pitch when going faster
0:59 proof Tenet is real
This content is so underrated
One thing many young folks never realize is even if you fail you gain practical knowledge. The cool thing is once you go through enough of these exercises you begin to develop an intellect then you can take on a new project and hit the design pretty close on the first attempt. Unfortunately this process usually takes many years but the more of these excersises you do the more advanced you will be in your later years and that's when you truly get to experience the satisfaction and reap the rewards.
It's amazing to watch your videos! Keep up the good work !! :)
11:26 Make an E-cart with that motor
Best channel on the interwebs, humor is next level
Awesome work, Simon! Looking forward to the next tries! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
7:24 SHOTS FIRED
Seems like water resistance is the limiting factor: time to make a hydrofoil?
I could watch these videos all day, even when Simon fails he still makes it entertaining
that crazy russian hacker impression tho! good videos man, keep up the good work!
This is why the Florida airboats have huge powerful motors on top of a light weight hulls. Looking forward to the next project.
It’s like the old Swedish saying we all know and love; Friskt kopplat, hälften brunnet!
I don't know why, but at first I read: Worked first time, half of it burns.
Turns out "hälften" is the only word I actually understood.
@@maxmustermann2596 😂 The second half you got right at least ^^
Always worth the watch, keep having fun with new ideas
U r the most consistent youtuber, jokes aside love the content
Dying the water blew my mind a bit. Nice vid, you are some of today's finest entertainment
The way he flinches at 9:15 XD
This man needs more subscribers.
You have to minimize the surface touching water to decrease the drag, i recommend you to build a hyrofoil
Great video! Looks like you were being held back by hydrodynamic drag, with increased power you also increase that drag so your speed hits a maximum. It's all about getting that body out of the water. If your hull has a lifting effect like a powerboat it might have better results.
Make a hydrofoil! You'll get less friction from the water dragging on the hull.
Very enjoyable to watch. It was fascinating using the body board verse the boat.
Me: does Simon not have a bathtub for testing floatation and saving time?
Simon: I do, but the on location testing is way cooler.
Me: agreed. Keep it up.
Hey Simon,
Your hull needs some steps, like speedboats. If u try to to pusch a normal hull at speed though water it acts a bit like a wing and sucks itself to the water. Those steps, 1-3, just google it, help to break the surface tension and enable planing.
Switching to the body board actually made it worse in a way, du to a much lager wetted surface.
Yep. Look at Single engine float plane pontoons. they have a step built in to "ventilate" the wetted area of the pontoons decreasing wetted area until you are airborne.
You should make a hydrofoil
Nice project!
my input: tape the bottom with some parcel tape. get the trailing and side edges sharp.
If thats not working, run it on a gravel road, its a ton of fun.
"The rudder is farther down than expected"... Yeah I remember my first time with a girl
Most enjoyable! The boat is 'stuck' to the water - no amount of lipo-brushless-mega-watts will change this... Looking forward to the next video!
MAKE A PARAMOTOR OR PROPELLER BACKPACK FOR SKIING OR RIDING SOMETHING
Simon uploads
Me:grabs pop corn!
In last videos you were displacing water, but this time just air. Thus, you got low speeds and acceleration. Displacing water creates huge force in comparison to displacing air as water has higher mass and force is mass multiplied by acceleration. Although the acceleration would be little low but the decrease in acceleration will be far less than increase in mass when you switch from displacing air to water.
Loved that pond color editing bit!
Great video, informative AND very entertaining. Happy to wait Simon ,gives me a chance to go over previous vids again.
Maybe this info will be of some use. Sorry if it was posted before. There are two types of boats. Planing boats and displacement boats. Planing boats are self explanatory. They skip on the surface of water and their speed is only limited by power - drag. Displacement boats on the other hand are limited by their length. The bow of the boat creates a wave. it rises from the bow and after reaching it's peak it drops toward the stern of the bow. The second the boat reach a speed where the length of the wave is equal to the length of the boat (length of the water line) the stern of the boat falls in to the well created by the end of the wake. No matter how much power you have, if your boat is not planing, it can not go faster than it's theoretical hull speed.
One person MINI Boat! Cmon! That would be awesome for fan :)
Make a GIANT rc plane with that massive motor!
A V hull works great if you can get up on plane. Maybe use trims or even a hydrofoil on the rudder to help. The flat board had way too much friction.
1:00 love the way your soldering iron recycles the smoke like that LOL ;)
that google search killed me lol! and the looking at the camera as if you're waiting for some kind of acknowledgement from it
With the beard (suits you!) and that orange and black hoodie, you're giving off a cool "Ming the Merciless" vibe :)
Excited for the coming projects, I think a kayak, electric scooter or giant flywheel!
For the 20kW one that’s for sure enough power to keep you flying on a paraglider/Paramotor. You know what to do 🥳
That hippopotamus part was so funny!
such an enjoyment to see you work! love this!
@RcLifeOn The issue you had in the start was likely to do with the spark-free XT90 connector, they have a resistor in the first part of the connector, so you have to connect it properly in order for the power to not go through the resistor when using high power.
Also the issue with the first fan not moving the boat fast is that the motor is on top of the boat, meaning the front of the boat is pitched into the water by the force of the motor.
This increases resistance more and more until the motor essentially works against itself. The fix would be to angle the motor upwards more.
I have built a few pusher prop type boats from the spare v hull race boats I had laying around and know exactly the problem here...you need to use a flat bottom hull with a near zero draft when boat is floating at full run weight...in theory, you could have used a EDF only 2 inches in diameter and had 5x the performance you got from that behemoth. Basically, your design is akin to building a glider from a aluminum 747 frame....as far as history goes, removing the insane turbine thrust from a 747 at takeoff ends up looking very similar to your boat...with some additional scary consequences....the airfoil, diehdral and weight were designed to do one thing, go really fast in the air or sit parked at the terminal...build a hull designed to 'fly' like a airplane and a airboat will perform like one.
Yup...spot on. Flat bottom and zero draft or near zero draft at idle speeds would equate to near zero drag...the v hull is to allow the submerged prop to stay 'wet', and not a requirement for a EDF pusher...
Another error, but not totally related to the problem is the below waterline rudder...needs to be in edf airflow above waterline in order to steer at all, especially at any point below full throttle or so.
YESYESYES My Daily (Yearly) Dose of Simon!
Look forward every time you post, great content!!
Propeller bicycle would be very terrifying and fun!
Just found this channel funny as hell but did open up possibilities for something I’m working on thanks 🙏
You should try to give a few degrees of an angle to the motor axis, so when the boat rises its nose, propeller axis stays close to horizontal. Also this leads the propeller axis pass closer to the gravitational center of the boat, so the force will be lost less as rotational force.
That water looks so clean and blue
Bro pls upload weekly , I'll be here for every video.
The first reminded me of the Grand Tour Episode where Clarkson, Hammond, and May tried to build the fastest boat.
tack, men blir alltid glad när man kommer in o ser att du släppt en ny video. 10 tummar till dig..
8:15 I've been to the Maldives once and when I saw their water color I said that if I saw that at home, I'd start looking for the leaking chemicals plant up river
Your video shows that rather well
Love your videos & i strongly appreciate ur hardwork
Simon.. as usually great ideas... What about to build a boat with foils? It will be fast.. and funnyy! :) I know you can do it! Make this video a present for my birthday! ;)
Great project, If i were building a hull to go fast, i would eliminate some of the drag of the hull with steps (look up stepped hull) that will help to eliminate the hydrodynamic drag of your hull. also if you angle the motor up (propellor facing up slightly) you will modify your angle of attack for the hull. this will give you bow lift, eliminate some drag, and help you up on a plane. this will also help you bow submerge less saving your electronics.
If you want to go off the reservation completely, build some hydrofoils, eliminate hull drag by several orders of magnitude
Don't you just hate that when you're trying to solder and it starts to rain! Those motors are terrifying, I want one.
at 1 minute the smoke is coming back to the soldering iron????? amazing haha
I love this idea for these series! Amazing!
I want to see that massive motor in a 1:10 dragster ;)
As an aircraft engineer i'm grateful that i'm not the only one screwed by propulsion efficiency for my exam. I noticed a couple of things: first the trust changed the angle of the craft pushing it deep into the water an causing friction. The second one is that you are using all that power to accellerate a lot the air, that's inefficiency because you just are not moving enough of it. I'd try a bigger prop and see if you can install the ducted fan in a nacelle to produce more trust like the one used on jet engine tests on the ground. Bye!
I am excited to see the bigger motor setup! I like the propeller rather than the turbo fan.
Fun video.
Maybe the ducted fan can be used with a hydrofoil? If you can get that up to planing speed. With the fan you won't need the a deep propeller or rudder.
The thing that blew up at 2:30 was the resistor in the Anti-spark plug. I had that happen to me before
Yes hydrofoils as proposed below would look like a nice follow up Simon. Always nice to watch your videos 👍
One of my favorite channels, in the top five I reckon:)
Just do some 3D printed "Steps" in the hull. You will break the surface tension and the thing will take off like a rock getting skipped. All modern, large power boats do it. Like Fountain, Baja, Eliminator... etc.
Its been years since ive seen such a clean build plate on my printers haha
not sure how i got here but this was so cool to watch
Hi Simon! why not adding hydrofoil wings to the bodyboard? you can use 4 "v-shape" wings at each corner. This would immediately reduce drag and speed up that thing. You could easily 3d print it. Check out the boat designs from the 60s. Looking forward to see the update and good luck😄🤞🤞🤞
Hey Simon add a foil wing to it it might lift the whole thing and will give you more speed because of lower friction with water. Would be cool to watch you building a wingfoil 👍
nice to see u here again :)
FYSA. The board is creating suction on the water under power. Any amount of concave profile can do this. Happens with old boat hulls as well.
Loved that you edit the lake water lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Are you sure that you aren't preparing for an RC Torpedo? It sounds like a torpedo, and it's beginning to look like a torpedo. The only thing missing is a BOOM!
Are we witnessing the birth of the next Agent Q?
hier wird es nie langweilig ... Danke ;-)
It would be so cool for you to make another hovercraft that is large enough to have that ducted fan mounted to drive it!
Part 2 of your 3D Printed RC Under Water Drone pleeeeaaasseee
i used to race solar powered rc boats and had the same problems. the problem here seems to be that the surface tension of the water clings on the underside of the large flat board so it cannot get out of the water. you could try and design a much longer, maybe narrower hull for your boat. also, you might want to build in some sort of edge on the underside to break the tension on the water (like the hard edge on the back of speedboats, but more in the middle of the hull). Happy trying!
I love your videos bro. an I LOVE your humor!
I have an idea for your project... apply a hydrophobic solution to the bottom of the board. It needs to break tension with the water. The water is slowing it down.
Nice one, Dude! Try a bellmouth in front of the ducted fan and a nozzle at the end that has around 90% of the (open) area of the engine.
“Something wasn’t working with that speed controller must have been something I blew up in the past”😂
Hey Simon, one big problem you have with the bodyboard is the hidrodinamic, try next time with a soft surface and hidrodinamic forms with the boat or other things you use. To much power and to much break because of hidrodinamics