Skip the rollers for your ramp. Just use wood planks the full length with waterproof carpet on them. Cheaper and stronger. Great job, very cool project!
2 long planks of Trex/composite decking would work perfectly. Low friction, no moving parts, cant fall between the rollers. Carpet is good for a trailer because it grips the hull pretty significantly but it doesn't slide worth a damn, especially once its wet.
AMAZING!!! A tip for your ramp and trailer: use 2 2x4 (or 2x6) wood planks covered with cheap carpet as ramps instead... no risk to damage your hull. Usually people use cheap artificial grass mat or cheap utility door mat (in fabric). Despite a little friction (compared to wheels), your boat will slide easily. 😀
no need to get expensive carpets because these ramps are usually used rarely... like twice a day (in and out) and 2-3 times per week. For a boat nearly twice the size of yours, I'm using 2x6 planks on my trailer and ramps. You could round up the tips of your planks since your ramps are quite steep... no need to empale your hull!! 😅
Dont build a jet drive for it. Jet drives are really inefficient and you lose about 30% of your horsepower to various losses. If you want more power, start by trimming your motor up, and adjust the height so the cavitation plate is level with the bottom of the boat. And make sure you have the right pitch prop. You can lose a lot of power by having too steep, or too shallow of a prop.
Hes already got the "cavitation plate" (which is a commonly used misnomer, its an "anti ventilation plate") at about the same as the bottom of the boat if you look in the video. It should be, if you want to go fast, much higher up than that.
@@TheWebstaff Way harder to make work than just raising the motor up, Its also not certain it would be a benefit, light planing hulls can be very effcient, even well optimized foils can be a net loss on this boat.
Was thinking the outboard is also inefficient with the gearbox - also has big exhaust, which is not needed here. Torque on drive should be more smooth than with ICE, so gearbox could perhaps be downsized also. Perhaps an Arneson like surface drive would be optimal compromise 🤔
@@TheStuartstardust Surface drive is almost always the best answer if looking from a pure speed perspective. Only downside for those perspective is the sometimes limited leavarege for trimming the attitude of the hull, meaning you can lose on that end instead. Especially on a hull of this type. It can be somewhat mitigated with better weight placement of course. Oherwise, I agree with most of your points, they are well made.
Great project. I worked on a collegiate electric boat competition called Solar Splash, it's still in existence in the USA. We had so many problems with our speed controller limiting the current that eventually we came up with a strategy where we throttled up to full speed then activated a contactor that connected the motor directly to the battery (no speed controller). At that point your head would snap back as the motor could draw as much current as the batteries could put out (close to 1000 amps for a limited time). This was a brushed motor however, I'm not sure what you're using. The contactor has to have the ability to break that kind of current, otherwise it will weld itself shut when you attempt to turn it off. Great channel.
Simon has done tons of projects, and unique engineering setups, so watching him build the worlds most dangerous way to get a boat in the water is fantastic. So those rollers are really bad for boats. They allow movement, but they will eventually crack the fiberglass? because rollers don't spread out the impact. Can you get two tracks with rubber on them , and then install them so they lower the boat into the water with a vshape that matches the hull? When big boats have little smaller boats on them, sometimes they take the motor off so you can handle the boat, and deal with the motor easier.
The hull is strtong enough for rollers like this.. IF they are placed correctly, which of course, they were not. Of greater concern is the metal posts holding them scratching or making a hole into the hull.
Great project! 2 things: - did you think about cooling the battery? Foam protecting it and such will be basically insulating it, so get even hotter. Heat is one of the biggest enemy of batteries, and it depletes it faster. - you could build an aerodynamic canopy, I think windage is slowing you down and worsens your efficiency. +1: Propellers are speed matched, so could be that an other propeller will give you better efficiency. The difference could be as big as 2x.
Saying “Propellers are speed matched” is a false statement. Propellers are like axle gearing in a car. You can have a propeller that's pitched for top speed, sacrificing low end torque, or, pitched for Torque (gets the boat up on plane quicker) sacrificing top speed. The key is finding a happy medium.
Dont do the jet drive, it will just make it slower and more prone to leaking. Try adding tilt to the motor. If you could tilt it outwards more then the bow of the boat would be higher, you would have less boat in the water and could go faster.
I love this. I've converted a little sailboat (Vaurien) to a petrol powered outboard, many years ago. Still in my garage to rebuild it as an electric version. So following this closely
Flat PVC stirps mounted to your ramp will be much better than rollers, but could require 2 people if the angle isn't steep enough to cause the boat to slide down towards the water. Easy enough to test friction and extrapolate the required data from there to find the angle it would need to be in order for one person to be able to lauch the boat. All in all, this is pretty awesome and just needs refinement. GG bro!
Such an awesome project, aside from the genius build I just have to say those teeth be looking so good bro. Had to recap on old videos to see how much you've grown over the years. ABSOLUTE STUD!!
horse power is good with 3 phase brushless, the problem is energy density of battery chemistry too improve, vs fossil fuels, but that will require a time machine to remedy, until then we push forward with what we have.
What happened to trying different props? Forget the PUMP! Work on a few props? Raise the motor mount about 5 inches and run closer to the surface. Reduce as much metal weight off the outboard and have fun while the weather is nice and you and your girl can enjoy the boat. Make two seats forward and aft. The cooler the snacks and beverages, the sun and fun.
Nice project! And hey it's your build so whatever you decide is best but jet drives are usually about 30% less efficient than the outboard drive you already have. Maybe try a straight shaft? Like on the RC boats. That should cause the least losses from motor to prop, maybe give you higher speed and eliminate most of that noise.
I feel like it's louder than it should be. Like a lot louder. If it's loud like that I feel like you're losing a lot of power on the mechanical end. Somethubg is not right still. Something is too tight or too loose. It should be way quieter than a gas machine. Water cooling will help a ton. You know this obviously. I have several VESCs and one is the 75300 with integrated water cooling and on that one I'm getting away with using a PC cooloer radiator and a 12v pump. This is on an overbuilt bike, radiator behind the headlight. I think if I were in water I might be tempted to use the forward motion of the craft as the pump. A little janky but here's what I would try. Open end of a tube facing forward fastened to the bottom of the boat, the faster you go the more water you get type deal. The waters always cool that way. If it lacks pressure just use graduated hose sizes. That controller is rated up to 500 battery amps. That's a beast. I bet an industrious person could make a jet boat with that. Maybe someone that has experience with impellers. You wouldn't know anyone like that would you? Just sayin'
He has an EDF running and it's a lower unit to an outboard so it won't be quiet. Also, the Mic amplifies the sound, In person, it would not be as noisy Not to mention the boat is a big echo chamber. A wide open tub with no insulation will amplify vibrations or sounds. It's perfectly normal.
@@FarmerFpv I thought it was loud and his girlfriend said it's loud as if she couldn't hear anymore after that. I still say it's too loud and he should make it a jet boat. He probably already has everything he needs or just smaller versions of what he needs. Probably easier to cut a hole in the boat and drop a jet ski in it but that's been done quite a bit already. Lots of jet skis where I live, probably not where he is though. I wouldn't even be able to get in the water where he's at.
@@zentechnician Did they? I see no indication they are talking about the drivetrain in itself being loud, rather than just the cooling EDF? Where did you see/hear that? Keep in mind, I speak Swedish and understand exactly (as far as me not mishearing) what they are saying in this video.
When you need to print strong stuff, I can highly recommend you fibre reinforced Poly Carbonate (if your printer is able to handle those temperatures and if you have a hardened nozzle). Or if you are lower on budget, you can already improve your prints by printing out of (fibre reinforced) PETG instead of PLA. Also if you have CNC mashined parts, I think a high performance aluminum (e.g. 7075) might be cheaper, lighter and should still handle those loads. You can also let it eloxate to make it look nice (e.g. black) and to safe it from oxidation in salt water.
Before you remove the outboard you need to raise it up higher out of the water. They are only down that far to get good cooling to the gas engine. Raise it up till it start to surge and then down slightly. I am not talking about trim actually jack the motor higher up on the transom.
@@GoldenCroc their main advantage is that they reduce noise, while they seem to produce some efficiency gains in some torque ranges. It’s difficult to come by lots of quantitative information apart from the initial paper. Im I’m curious what you base your assumption on. Thanks.
@@slickheisenberg8208 Testing data on various boats, as supplied by equally various sources. None have shown any conclusive advantage in performance, and, as far as I know, all have shown a slightly worse top speed. Secondly, looking at this testing data, one might surmise the efficency gained by decreasing tip vortices are mitigated by the increased blade area that intersects the water, i.e the part that "cuts" the water is longer than most other props As long as the blade area is sufficient to transfer the force effectively from the motor to the water, fewer blades and less area is always the most efficient after all. All in all, no availible testing results so far that I am aware of have shown any gain compared to for example 4 bladed or counter rotating props, which both increase grip in instances where slip is high. At higher speeds where slip is lower, the most common, for normal pleasure boats, three bladed prop seemingly have the advantage still. Its hard to reinvent the wheel, and I am not a nay-sayer but prop designs as far as performance goes are well into very diminishing returns since many decades ago. A quite mature technology. I have yet to be convinced otherwise. Personally, my conclusion from what I have seen is that I believe a counter rotating prop configuration properly optimized taken in itself is at least as good if not better than a toroidal prop in pretty much every scenario. And for higher speed and "cost/price" ratio, a normal 3 blade prop is almost unbeatable.
@@slickheisenberg8208 Good that you could read the comment before it got deleted by youtube (at least, I cant currently see it). RUclips seems to think I am some sort of bot or similar, and is sometimes removing my posts. A bit infuriating, but its probably because I sometimes make a lot of comments in a short space of time, I guess? Cheers mate.
If you put jet drive in to that boat, its exactly what I have been planning (dreaming) for a couple years now. Small electric (or gasoline) jet speedboat version from of those really fun small jet boats from America. All tough, I would build the frame myself from wood and/or fiberglass. Cant wait to see what comes out from your plans! ps. awesome content! With best regards, fellow from Finland.
Not a bad idea, but the problem with reasonably fast electric boats is battery capacity. A jet drive is very inefficient versus a prop and will use even more energy than this. Battery would have to be very large, heavy and expensive.
@@GoldenCroc Yeah thts a good point, so we wait for a miracle innovation in battery technology... until then, we dream and plan for future, ot use gasoline
When gliding it is better that the weight is behind approximately 1/3 of the length of the boat and it is better that the throttle is on the hand and not on the foot, it is much more constant and easier to control.
race boats use foot throttle. Of course, at his current, low speed, I agree a hand throttle is sufficient. But a foot throttle can be just as steady, hand control is more about fatigue.
@@SINIS0RSA They are availible, but not super easy to come by. In fact, quite hard for this model of engine shell he got I think. He would likely have to modify one to fit, sadly.
You need the batteries all the way at the back of the boat for a higher top speed because of the hull shape. Love the videos cool to see a two smoker being reuesd for a different purpose.
Might be cool to replace some of the skin w/ solar panels although your rate of power usage might mean that basically doesn't work! You can perhaps put the batteries on some sort of sliding assembly, so that you can move them forward and backward in the bow, adjusting your front/rear bias and giving you a way to adjust your trim
If you really intend to go the jet drive way, I would suggest that you somehow convert that outboard motor to an outboard jet drive motor. The biggest advantage of this approach is that there is no modification to the hull needed and therefore no chance of leaking.
Your videos are awesome! I always look forward to them. I think you should stick with a prop. Maybe even use a surface drive setup where only 1/2 the prop is in the water at full speed. A jet drive is great for shallow water but I believe a prop is more efficient. Great work on this!
@@GoldenCroc I guess you’re right. Even Carbon infused materials? Heck, even get pcb to machine the best ones from brass or something (might be expensive tho)
@@nokbeen3654 yes, even then. Think about how much stronger aluminium is compared to almost anything that can be 3d printed on a "consumer grade" 3d printer. Now realize powerful boats use stainless steel instead of aluminium props because the aluminium is too weak to be made thin enough. Now of course, he hastn got much power compared to more powerful boats, but I still think any commercially availible aluminium prop will beat a 3d printed one, by quite a lot, never mind a stainless one. The blade thickness would have to be ramped up enough to perhaps not say much about which design is the best, I should think. "lost in the noise/margins of error" so to say. Now of course PCB way can do a lot with other materials, but it wont be cheap...
No idea what I am talking about, but how bad of an idea would it be to use a water-cooled CNC spindle? Designed to run under load for a long time, and have plumbing built-in.
I'm surprised your cables didn't melt. At a guess from what I could see your cable from the batteries to vesc to motor is about 16mm2. With 382 amps about 2 metres your voltage drop would've been around 5%. Cable size for current carrying capacity alone should be 150mm2-ish. Sorry if you explained this on your live stream or somewhere else that I missed.
You should raise the motor so 1/4 of the diameter of the prop is above the keel. This will aerate the prop and help it free up once the boat is one a plane. Guaranteed, it would give you an extra 20% speed at least and be way faster than a similar power jet drive.
If you were the Australian Government, in order to increase your range, they would just put a diesel powered charger at your boat ramp. Love your projects, though!
Really cool, but uh... Thats a lot of money, price to performance is horrible, guess thats the trade-off for electric. where i live you can get a boat with an engine and trailer around $500usd. Got myself a 1972 StarCraft runabout 14ft boat with a 35hp motor, trailer included for $300. Did a little timing adjustment to the engine and replaced the lower units oil for $20. It goes 30mph or about the same as that smaller, more expensive expensive boat. Its crazy that my boat can keep up with this project of yours for 1/10 the cost of your batteries alone. And it can go flat out on the lake for a few hours instead of minutes.
Just got an idea: BATBOAT CONVERSION (like the race hulls. They use wings to get them the lift of a catamaran with the stability and rough water capability of a monohull)
Your outboard motor should be raised up one and a 1/2 inches from its current location. The bottom of the boat should be one and a half inches lower.Then the cavitation plate, according to mercury racing
Nice 🥳👌 To get more speed I think you should get a motor with the right rpm to match the propeller. 19kWh should be like an 25-30hp gasoline motor. Awesome work anyways 🤠👌
It came out really powerful. Pleasure working with you Simon. Hit us when you are ready for the next one. 🎉🎉
💪
Thank you for making that smile possible.
A 35 johnson woulda hit 60 + easy. 😅
This was cool!
Motor: Genius. Boat ramp: at least you tried.
boat ramp = participation trophy
Ironically, I am not sure he did. The disconnect in talent in constructing is seemingly too great for that...
The best part is how it's totally silent and doesn't sound like tinnitus at all. Grymt.
WHAT 🦻🤣
😂
A 4 stroke merc is quieter than that thing lol
cap
It’s loud af tho 😂
A four stroke is way quieter, plus the high pitch noise of the motor will do more harm
Skip the rollers for your ramp. Just use wood planks the full length with waterproof carpet on them. Cheaper and stronger. Great job, very cool project!
Rollers work fins, if theyt are placed correctly. No idea why he placed them that way. He also need more of them.
@@GoldenCroc Best part is no part. Drop the rollers, they are not useful and will only bring problem.
@@AeroGraphica Much lower force needed than without them. Rollers work fine if placed correctly.
🎉😂
2 long planks of Trex/composite decking would work perfectly. Low friction, no moving parts, cant fall between the rollers. Carpet is good for a trailer because it grips the hull pretty significantly but it doesn't slide worth a damn, especially once its wet.
ElectroBOOM would be proud
Not enough manic laughter, when shocked though.
AMAZING!!! A tip for your ramp and trailer: use 2 2x4 (or 2x6) wood planks covered with cheap carpet as ramps instead... no risk to damage your hull. Usually people use cheap artificial grass mat or cheap utility door mat (in fabric). Despite a little friction (compared to wheels), your boat will slide easily. 😀
no need to get expensive carpets because these ramps are usually used rarely... like twice a day (in and out) and 2-3 times per week. For a boat nearly twice the size of yours, I'm using 2x6 planks on my trailer and ramps. You could round up the tips of your planks since your ramps are quite steep... no need to empale your hull!! 😅
Dont build a jet drive for it. Jet drives are really inefficient and you lose about 30% of your horsepower to various losses.
If you want more power, start by trimming your motor up, and adjust the height so the cavitation plate is level with the bottom of the boat. And make sure you have the right pitch prop. You can lose a lot of power by having too steep, or too shallow of a prop.
Hes already got the "cavitation plate" (which is a commonly used misnomer, its an "anti ventilation plate") at about the same as the bottom of the boat if you look in the video. It should be, if you want to go fast, much higher up than that.
Hydrofoil is my better upgrade.
@@TheWebstaff Way harder to make work than just raising the motor up, Its also not certain it would be a benefit, light planing hulls can be very effcient, even well optimized foils can be a net loss on this boat.
Was thinking the outboard is also inefficient with the gearbox - also has big exhaust, which is not needed here. Torque on drive should be more smooth than with ICE, so gearbox could perhaps be downsized also. Perhaps an Arneson like surface drive would be optimal compromise 🤔
@@TheStuartstardust Surface drive is almost always the best answer if looking from a pure speed perspective. Only downside for those perspective is the sometimes limited leavarege for trimming the attitude of the hull, meaning you can lose on that end instead. Especially on a hull of this type. It can be somewhat mitigated with better weight placement of course.
Oherwise, I agree with most of your points, they are well made.
Great project. I worked on a collegiate electric boat competition called Solar Splash, it's still in existence in the USA. We had so many problems with our speed controller limiting the current that eventually we came up with a strategy where we throttled up to full speed then activated a contactor that connected the motor directly to the battery (no speed controller). At that point your head would snap back as the motor could draw as much current as the batteries could put out (close to 1000 amps for a limited time). This was a brushed motor however, I'm not sure what you're using. The contactor has to have the ability to break that kind of current, otherwise it will weld itself shut when you attempt to turn it off. Great channel.
This is brushless, so no way to just direct connect it. a speed control is mandatory.
@@Ken-v5l5d I was thinking that might be the case.
Simon has done tons of projects, and unique engineering setups, so watching him build the worlds most dangerous way to get a boat in the water is fantastic. So those rollers are really bad for boats. They allow movement, but they will eventually crack the fiberglass? because rollers don't spread out the impact. Can you get two tracks with rubber on them , and then install them so they lower the boat into the water with a vshape that matches the hull? When big boats have little smaller boats on them, sometimes they take the motor off so you can handle the boat, and deal with the motor easier.
The hull is strtong enough for rollers like this.. IF they are placed correctly, which of course, they were not. Of greater concern is the metal posts holding them scratching or making a hole into the hull.
Rollers are a bad ideia here. As someone said above, just use longitudinal planks with carpet on them.
Great project!
2 things: - did you think about cooling the battery? Foam protecting it and such will be basically insulating it, so get even hotter. Heat is one of the biggest enemy of batteries, and it depletes it faster.
- you could build an aerodynamic canopy, I think windage is slowing you down and worsens your efficiency.
+1: Propellers are speed matched, so could be that an other propeller will give you better efficiency. The difference could be as big as 2x.
Saying “Propellers are speed matched” is a false statement. Propellers are like axle gearing in a car. You can have a propeller that's pitched for top speed, sacrificing low end torque, or, pitched for Torque (gets the boat up on plane quicker) sacrificing top speed. The key is finding a happy medium.
@@savage6394 Yes, that is what I meant. Either I write 3 sentences or 2 words... I think here the latter was better.
@@savage6394 The statement in itself is somewhat correct, props are designed for different speed regimens.
Aerodynamics will do absolutely nothing at this low of a speed. Its the water drag in its various guises thats the limiting factor for this.
@@GoldenCroc As someone who sails boats, I can assure you, windage is big, and a big loss at 30, 40, 50 km/h.
Dont do the jet drive, it will just make it slower and more prone to leaking. Try adding tilt to the motor. If you could tilt it outwards more then the bow of the boat would be higher, you would have less boat in the water and could go faster.
It's called trimming the motor
Or possibly electric trim tabs.
A tip for the jet drive conversion. Use the jet drive from a scrap sea doo or jet ski.
Nice! Skip the jet drive and make it foil!
Agreed!
The joy and happiness of building something and making it work is clear on your face. Now lets see some foils under it and huge efficiency!!!!
Definitely the fastest diy electric outboard on you tube well done 👍
Good to see your projects actually start working! Youve come a long way! Ive been proud of you since the beginning!
I love this. I've converted a little sailboat (Vaurien) to a petrol powered outboard, many years ago. Still in my garage to rebuild it as an electric version. So following this closely
You are a genius with the boat and motor. The ramp was a POS. WTF??? LOVE IT
Flat PVC stirps mounted to your ramp will be much better than rollers, but could require 2 people if the angle isn't steep enough to cause the boat to slide down towards the water. Easy enough to test friction and extrapolate the required data from there to find the angle it would need to be in order for one person to be able to lauch the boat.
All in all, this is pretty awesome and just needs refinement. GG bro!
Hell yes!!! I got a little M-Jet RC boat that i 3D printed. i can't wait to see that boat with a big jet drive!
glad that you are using your hand to steer this time
Such an awesome project, aside from the genius build I just have to say those teeth be looking so good bro. Had to recap on old videos to see how much you've grown over the years. ABSOLUTE STUD!!
Cool! 19.4Kw is like 26hp! That's awesome for the small size.
horse power is good with 3 phase brushless, the problem is energy density of battery chemistry too improve, vs fossil fuels, but that will require a time machine to remedy, until then we push forward with what we have.
What happened to trying different props? Forget the PUMP! Work on a few props? Raise the motor mount about 5 inches and run closer to the surface. Reduce as much metal weight off the outboard and have fun while the weather is nice and you and your girl can enjoy the boat. Make two seats forward and aft. The cooler the snacks and beverages, the sun and fun.
Nice project!
And hey it's your build so whatever you decide is best but jet drives are usually about 30% less efficient than the outboard drive you already have.
Maybe try a straight shaft? Like on the RC boats. That should cause the least losses from motor to prop, maybe give you higher speed and eliminate most of that noise.
That was such a sweet moment with you and to it partner driving together
I am so happy you finally went to VESC.
Im impressed, you have improved a lot !
Bravo mate, my new favourite project of yours. Thanks for the ride
Thanks!
The jet drive idea sounds great make sure it’s circumference is pretty big good luck!
I feel like it's louder than it should be. Like a lot louder. If it's loud like that I feel like you're losing a lot of power on the mechanical end. Somethubg is not right still. Something is too tight or too loose. It should be way quieter than a gas machine.
Water cooling will help a ton. You know this obviously. I have several VESCs and one is the 75300 with integrated water cooling and on that one I'm getting away with using a PC cooloer radiator and a 12v pump. This is on an overbuilt bike, radiator behind the headlight. I think if I were in water I might be tempted to use the forward motion of the craft as the pump. A little janky but here's what I would try. Open end of a tube facing forward fastened to the bottom of the boat, the faster you go the more water you get type deal. The waters always cool that way. If it lacks pressure just use graduated hose sizes.
That controller is rated up to 500 battery amps. That's a beast. I bet an industrious person could make a jet boat with that. Maybe someone that has experience with impellers. You wouldn't know anyone like that would you?
Just sayin'
He has an EDF running and it's a lower unit to an outboard so it won't be quiet. Also, the Mic amplifies the sound, In person, it would not be as noisy Not to mention the boat is a big echo chamber. A wide open tub with no insulation will amplify vibrations or sounds. It's perfectly normal.
@@FarmerFpv I thought it was loud and his girlfriend said it's loud as if she couldn't hear anymore after that. I still say it's too loud and he should make it a jet boat. He probably already has everything he needs or just smaller versions of what he needs. Probably easier to cut a hole in the boat and drop a jet ski in it but that's been done quite a bit already. Lots of jet skis where I live, probably not where he is though. I wouldn't even be able to get in the water where he's at.
@@zentechnician As the other guy said, its the EDF and microphone. Jet drive will use even more power for a given speed.
@@GoldenCroc Yes but the impeller is in water, it's much quieter. It's loud, a person physically there said it's loud. That's kind of a hint.
@@zentechnician Did they? I see no indication they are talking about the drivetrain in itself being loud, rather than just the cooling EDF? Where did you see/hear that?
Keep in mind, I speak Swedish and understand exactly (as far as me not mishearing) what they are saying in this video.
This should be sent on prime time TV!
I'm loving this! Great work, good fun watching you! Jet will be really cool
This thing is awesome Simon! Nice work, can't wait to see the next version!
When you need to print strong stuff, I can highly recommend you fibre reinforced Poly Carbonate (if your printer is able to handle those temperatures and if you have a hardened nozzle). Or if you are lower on budget, you can already improve your prints by printing out of (fibre reinforced) PETG instead of PLA.
Also if you have CNC mashined parts, I think a high performance aluminum (e.g. 7075) might be cheaper, lighter and should still handle those loads. You can also let it eloxate to make it look nice (e.g. black) and to safe it from oxidation in salt water.
Before you remove the outboard you need to raise it up higher out of the water. They are only down that far to get good cooling to the gas engine. Raise it up till it start to surge and then down slightly. I am not talking about trim actually jack the motor higher up on the transom.
Love this channel and all the builds! Can't wait for the next one!
What propeller type are you running?
Maybe a toroidal prop could to lead to some more gains?
No, toroidal props do nothing for top speed, and its debatable if they do much for anything else either.
@@GoldenCroc their main advantage is that they reduce noise, while they seem to produce some efficiency gains in some torque ranges.
It’s difficult to come by lots of quantitative information apart from the initial paper.
Im
I’m curious what you base your assumption on. Thanks.
@@slickheisenberg8208 Testing data on various boats, as supplied by equally various sources. None have shown any conclusive advantage in performance, and, as far as I know, all have shown a slightly worse top speed.
Secondly, looking at this testing data, one might surmise the efficency gained by decreasing tip vortices are mitigated by the increased blade area that intersects the water, i.e the part that "cuts" the water is longer than most other props
As long as the blade area is sufficient to transfer the force effectively from the motor to the water, fewer blades and less area is always the most efficient after all.
All in all, no availible testing results so far that I am aware of have shown any gain compared to for example 4 bladed or counter rotating props, which both increase grip in instances where slip is high. At higher speeds where slip is lower, the most common, for normal pleasure boats, three bladed prop seemingly have the advantage still. Its hard to reinvent the wheel, and I am not a nay-sayer but prop designs as far as performance goes are well into very diminishing returns since many decades ago. A quite mature technology. I have yet to be convinced otherwise.
Personally, my conclusion from what I have seen is that I believe a counter rotating prop configuration properly optimized taken in itself is at least as good if not better than a toroidal prop in pretty much every scenario. And for higher speed and "cost/price" ratio, a normal 3 blade prop is almost unbeatable.
@@GoldenCroc interesting! Thank you for your perspective.
@@slickheisenberg8208 Good that you could read the comment before it got deleted by youtube (at least, I cant currently see it). RUclips seems to think I am some sort of bot or similar, and is sometimes removing my posts. A bit infuriating, but its probably because I sometimes make a lot of comments in a short space of time, I guess? Cheers mate.
Cool build👍 get a surface piercing prop, raise the engine and get a nosecone for that gearcase. Then you will get some speed 😎
So happy to see new videos - this project is amazing and you're doing great!
This is amazing. You should do a tutorial series for beginners, to show how to make different small projects.
glad to see @3shulmotors featured on this project. Best controller out there!
Properly Cooling the motor and the battery would probably make this thing amazing.
The sign behind you in the opening is well placed
You have the best content! I always look forward to it!
Yes please jet drive!! Sounds super rad
If you want to add even more speed/cornering you could add some sort of mechanism to trim the motor up/down so the boat sits higher/lower on plane.
If you put jet drive in to that boat, its exactly what I have been planning (dreaming) for a couple years now. Small electric (or gasoline) jet speedboat version from of those really fun small jet boats from America. All tough, I would build the frame myself from wood and/or fiberglass. Cant wait to see what comes out from your plans!
ps. awesome content!
With best regards, fellow from Finland.
Not a bad idea, but the problem with reasonably fast electric boats is battery capacity. A jet drive is very inefficient versus a prop and will use even more energy than this. Battery would have to be very large, heavy and expensive.
@@GoldenCroc Yeah thts a good point, so we wait for a miracle innovation in battery technology... until then, we dream and plan for future, ot use gasoline
Loved the video! Awesome boat. Now add a hydrofoil!
Simon, you give me so much hope for the future of mankind.
When gliding it is better that the weight is behind approximately 1/3 of the length of the boat and it is better that the throttle is on the hand and not on the foot, it is much more constant and easier to control.
race boats use foot throttle. Of course, at his current, low speed, I agree a hand throttle is sufficient. But a foot throttle can be just as steady, hand control is more about fatigue.
Jack plate would do wonders for the top speed as it reduces the under water drag.
Yes, but he need to change the prop then as well.
@@GoldenCroc Yes, he needs a prop designed for surface drive. That would be interesting to see.
@@SINIS0RSA They are availible, but not super easy to come by. In fact, quite hard for this model of engine shell he got I think. He would likely have to modify one to fit, sadly.
@@GoldenCroc That is true, this is where he needs some CFD professional to design it and his sponsor to cnc machine it. 😄
Nice video as always! Looking forward to the jet version!
The easy part is done...
Imagine how fast it will be after you put it on foils...
Challenge sent!!!
Awesome build, now you need enough batteries to keep her running for all day! 🎉
I'm afraid that might sink the boat! 🤣
This looks like so much fun to drive! I love how EV conversions can take an old piece of junk and turn it into something new and amazing.
I wondered why you didn't get a boat big enough for 2 - @10:27 Looks like you were way ahead of me.
This boat is very light weight and and is a proper race boat for small engine classes. Since he got limited power, thats probably why he used it.
You need the batteries all the way at the back of the boat for a higher top speed because of the hull shape. Love the videos cool to see a two smoker being reuesd for a different purpose.
large high voltage packs like that scare the heck out of me. I've always wanted to build one. Thanks for reminding me why I don't.
Might be cool to replace some of the skin w/ solar panels although your rate of power usage might mean that basically doesn't work!
You can perhaps put the batteries on some sort of sliding assembly, so that you can move them forward and backward in the bow, adjusting your front/rear bias and giving you a way to adjust your trim
awesome boat! can't wait for the jetdrive
If you really intend to go the jet drive way, I would suggest that you somehow convert that outboard motor to an outboard jet drive motor. The biggest advantage of this approach is that there is no modification to the hull needed and therefore no chance of leaking.
Your videos are awesome! I always look forward to them. I think you should stick with a prop. Maybe even use a surface drive setup where only 1/2 the prop is in the water at full speed. A jet drive is great for shallow water but I believe a prop is more efficient. Great work on this!
Much more efficient, yes.
Yup love that jet drive idea
You should try some of the propellers RCtestflight tested to see if they increase efficiency
Hard to make a plastic prop that can stand up to this power and isnt really thick.
@@GoldenCroc I guess you’re right. Even Carbon infused materials? Heck, even get pcb to machine the best ones from brass or something (might be expensive tho)
@@nokbeen3654 yes, even then. Think about how much stronger aluminium is compared to almost anything that can be 3d printed on a "consumer grade" 3d printer.
Now realize powerful boats use stainless steel instead of aluminium props because the aluminium is too weak to be made thin enough.
Now of course, he hastn got much power compared to more powerful boats, but I still think any commercially availible aluminium prop will beat a 3d printed one, by quite a lot, never mind a stainless one.
The blade thickness would have to be ramped up enough to perhaps not say much about which design is the best, I should think. "lost in the noise/margins of error" so to say.
Now of course PCB way can do a lot with other materials, but it wont be cheap...
@@GoldenCroc yup, like I said, pcb could, but not cheap..
No idea what I am talking about, but how bad of an idea would it be to use a water-cooled CNC spindle? Designed to run under load for a long time, and have plumbing built-in.
I'm surprised your cables didn't melt. At a guess from what I could see your cable from the batteries to vesc to motor is about 16mm2. With 382 amps about 2 metres your voltage drop would've been around 5%. Cable size for current carrying capacity alone should be 150mm2-ish. Sorry if you explained this on your live stream or somewhere else that I missed.
That’s awesome. I would just say that I wouldn’t do the jet drive just yet. Jet drives are a lot less efficient than standard prop drive.
Place glass or clear plastic in front of it to improve flow and prevent exposure to too much wind
Jet Drive, yeaah boiiii. cant wait for that.
I have always heard a throttle pedal in a boat called a "Hot foot".
Thats a brand name of a maker of foot throttle controls.
Love these videos man, also any combo of water + electric propulsion.
Damn, this becomes better and better.
Very cool. But now throw an old Johnson 115 on there and see how fast you can go!
You should raise the motor so 1/4 of the diameter of the prop is above the keel. This will aerate the prop and help it free up once the boat is one a plane.
Guaranteed, it would give you an extra 20% speed at least and be way faster than a similar power jet drive.
those looks to the camera when something is going wrong will always get me a good laugh, even after all of these years of following ;)
Now that you got the speed controller working you should put the steeper pitch prop back on and see how fast it’ll go
Now all u gotta do is make a roof over the top and put a solar panel on it 😂
Brilliant work, dude! Really well done!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
If you were the Australian Government, in order to increase your range, they would just put a diesel powered charger at your boat ramp. Love your projects, though!
I saw the first one and now this is epic! cant wait for the 3rd installment . you got a new Subscriber. great stuff!
Really cool, but uh... Thats a lot of money, price to performance is horrible, guess thats the trade-off for electric.
where i live you can get a boat with an engine and trailer around $500usd.
Got myself a 1972 StarCraft runabout 14ft boat with a 35hp motor, trailer included for $300. Did a little timing adjustment to the engine and replaced the lower units oil for $20. It goes 30mph or about the same as that smaller, more expensive expensive boat. Its crazy that my boat can keep up with this project of yours for 1/10 the cost of your batteries alone. And it can go flat out on the lake for a few hours instead of minutes.
I think you need to add a Go Pro mount on the boat so you don't have to hold it. I'm sure you could add electronic control for positioning.
Absolutely brilliant RUclips channel 💯
Just got an idea: BATBOAT CONVERSION (like the race hulls. They use wings to get them the lift of a catamaran with the stability and rough water capability of a monohull)
maybe have under water motor with high speed but lowest noise. maybe apply anti noise foam
Your foot steering skills are unmatched. But I am happy you can used your hands now.
Nice series, commenting for the algorithm and more content.
decouple your engine from the chassis with some washers made out of soft material like tpu
Crazy ideas, crazy builds 😂
Put one step higher pitch on the prop, and highspeed prop. And test put the engine in surface drive. Just for curiosity. 😁
That thing will move with the fans alone😂
Nice work!
Such beautiful place/lake they've got. Shame there's no boat ramp for easy access😅
If you are looking for more speed you need to raise that motor about 3" up on the transom. Electric trim wouldn't hurt either.
I don’t know if you’d want to continue with the boat stuff, but you should try doing this with a waverunner. Good video 😁
Indian tech support 2:10 💀
Your outboard motor should be raised up one and a 1/2 inches from its current location. The bottom of the boat should be one and a half inches lower.Then the cavitation plate, according to mercury racing
"Ska du med" thats a nice pickup line :)
Nice 🥳👌 To get more speed I think you should get a motor with the right rpm to match the propeller. 19kWh should be like an 25-30hp gasoline motor. Awesome work anyways 🤠👌