When the lobes on cylinder 1 are pointing straight down, the lobes on cylinder 6 are pointing straight up. By “straight up”, I mean the #6 lobe points at the ridge in the middle of its bearing cap.
Have you ever had a broken valve spring on m52 engine? I have no compression on cylinder 4 and hear a ticking sound that gets louder with speed around injector 4 lack of power and Shakey at idle.
Hello been watching ur videos for ages and I'm struggling a little today i can't seem to get my exhaust cam sprocket on it as if the timing chain is too short ??? Any ideas thanks in advance
Hey a little off topic but I have a question I can really find the answer too, do you know if I can swap a 95' e34 m50b25tu into my 95' e36 directly? It have the same motor, I heard something different about the oil pans?
yeah. as far as the core motors go, everything is the same from the block up. the difference is the oil pan. a M50 from an E34 will not be a direct fit. the E34 has a front sump oil pan, the E36 has a rear sump oil pan, to clear the engine crossmember. you will need to swap over an E36 oil pan, and an E36 oil pump pickup, but I would just throw a new E36 oil pump it and weld the pump nut while your at it, oil starvation is a bitch. but once you get the new pump and pan on, it is a direct fit. also, the E34 oil pump/oil pan is needed for an M50 swap into an E30, so E30 guys are always on the lookout for E34 pump and pan setups. you could sell it, make some money back and I guarantee it would sell quickly.
if this is your first time wrenching on an E36, take pictures, and label your vaccum lines and wiring plug ins. do lots of aditional research on pelican parts and other threads like bimmerforums, and utilize realOEM.com's endless diagrams. take your time, even with taking the car apart, oh and get your head machined! if you look under the playlists section on my channel, I am currently working on a headgasket DIY playlist and currently contains every step of the breakdown, up until the head goes back on. im going to be shooting the block prep video tomorrow, but due to some bad piston rings on my S52, i will be rebuilding the bottom end, and should take a few months before the head goes back on. depending on how soon your headgasket job is, the playlist might not be finished, but feel free to message me and i can answer any questions you have and point you in the right direction!
lol you're gonna see a bit of comments from me Bro. Jus tryina get this thing done the right way when I get to doin it. Had a question about the cam shaft. When you take those arches off(dunno what they're actually called), and you're able to move the cam shafts freely when you told me about the timing, what's the torque specs when it's time to bolt those back on again? Do you have a torque spec site you could tell me about maybe?
when you time the cams, do not take the bearing caps (arches) off. leave the cam inside the cylinder head, all bolted down. rotate the camshaft using a wrench to turn it and time it that way. the video about how to time the cam was an explaining video. when you are timing it for real, the lifters would be in, and the camshaft will be bolted down and torqued. you will not be able to rotate the cams by hand, i did in the video because the cams were not bolted down. notice how I use a crescent wrench to rotate the cam in this video, use that to rotate your camshafts into top dead center or into the correct timing
HiWhen putting the engine back in, do you recommend putting the TC on the xmission then bolting it to the flywheel or bolting to the flywheel then mating it to the xmission?
I was a little confused , I saw you removed the engine and the Torque Converter was not leftover in the bell housing. I was surprised that maybe you would leave the Torque Converter on the flywheel and not with the transmission.
Menace! Remember that cam tray and lifters MUST be installed in the same position they were. This is due to every lifter has its own tolerance/wear with its own cam tray.
![FAST BMW E36 Engine Teardown [Pt1]: How to Remove VANOS and Cylinder Head (m50 m52 s50 applications)](/img/1.gif)
Hey menace! Keep doing these videos, you cant image how helpful they are! U re teachig me a lot, I am greateful of you.
thanks!
When the lobes on cylinder 1 are pointing straight down, the lobes on cylinder 6 are pointing straight up. By “straight up”, I mean the #6 lobe points at the ridge in the middle of its bearing cap.
Have you ever had a broken valve spring on m52 engine? I have no compression on cylinder 4 and hear a ticking sound that gets louder with speed around injector 4 lack of power and Shakey at idle.
On my M52, a 24mm open end wrench is needed to hold the camshaft. I, too, used a crescent wrench.
Hey buddy, is this doable when its on the engine and change the cam? And if so, how about the adjustment?
Hello been watching ur videos for ages and I'm struggling a little today i can't seem to get my exhaust cam sprocket on it as if the timing chain is too short ??? Any ideas thanks in advance
Hey a little off topic but I have a question I can really find the answer too, do you know if I can swap a 95' e34 m50b25tu into my 95' e36 directly? It have the same motor, I heard something different about the oil pans?
yeah. as far as the core motors go, everything is the same from the block up. the difference is the oil pan. a M50 from an E34 will not be a direct fit. the E34 has a front sump oil pan, the E36 has a rear sump oil pan, to clear the engine crossmember. you will need to swap over an E36 oil pan, and an E36 oil pump pickup, but I would just throw a new E36 oil pump it and weld the pump nut while your at it, oil starvation is a bitch. but once you get the new pump and pan on, it is a direct fit. also, the E34 oil pump/oil pan is needed for an M50 swap into an E30, so E30 guys are always on the lookout for E34 pump and pan setups. you could sell it, make some money back and I guarantee it would sell quickly.
M3NACE fuck yeah!! Thanks for the info/tips man! Keep up the dope edits!
thank you man, glad I could help. check out the channel, subscribe, and let me know how you like it!
Seriously helping with my upcoming e36 s50 head gasket job. Any tips ? Pretty mechanically inclined, have the space and tools, ordering the parts.
if this is your first time wrenching on an E36, take pictures, and label your vaccum lines and wiring plug ins. do lots of aditional research on pelican parts and other threads like bimmerforums, and utilize realOEM.com's endless diagrams. take your time, even with taking the car apart, oh and get your head machined! if you look under the playlists section on my channel, I am currently working on a headgasket DIY playlist and currently contains every step of the breakdown, up until the head goes back on. im going to be shooting the block prep video tomorrow, but due to some bad piston rings on my S52, i will be rebuilding the bottom end, and should take a few months before the head goes back on. depending on how soon your headgasket job is, the playlist might not be finished, but feel free to message me and i can answer any questions you have and point you in the right direction!
very helpful; cam sprung back on me a little removing the last bearing cap; pretty sure shes all good to go!
nice!
lol you're gonna see a bit of comments from me Bro. Jus tryina get this thing done the right way when I get to doin it. Had a question about the cam shaft. When you take those arches off(dunno what they're actually called), and you're able to move the cam shafts freely when you told me about the timing, what's the torque specs when it's time to bolt those back on again? Do you have a torque spec site you could tell me about maybe?
when you time the cams, do not take the bearing caps (arches) off. leave the cam inside the cylinder head, all bolted down. rotate the camshaft using a wrench to turn it and time it that way. the video about how to time the cam was an explaining video. when you are timing it for real, the lifters would be in, and the camshaft will be bolted down and torqued. you will not be able to rotate the cams by hand, i did in the video because the cams were not bolted down. notice how I use a crescent wrench to rotate the cam in this video, use that to rotate your camshafts into top dead center or into the correct timing
You need more subs.
+1 thanks man, Ill get there hah
Great video. Was apprehensive about taking my cams out but not anymore. Thank you.
HiWhen putting the engine back in, do you recommend putting the TC on the xmission then bolting it to the flywheel or bolting to the flywheel then mating it to the xmission?
xmission? and what is TC? throttle cable? lol
I was a little confused , I saw you removed the engine and the Torque Converter was not leftover in the bell housing. I was surprised that maybe you would leave the Torque Converter on the flywheel and not with the transmission.
yeah so there is no torque converter. the droptop is a 5 speed manual, and the clutch stayed on the block when i dropped the transmission
Books. 🤔 so that's what those things are for
Menace! Remember that cam tray and lifters MUST be installed in the same position they were. This is due to every lifter has its own tolerance/wear with its own cam tray.
"I like big butts and I cannot lie!"
yessssssss! brudddahhh