Hey Quinn. My cams are lined up like yours after installation but can not turn at all with wrench. Is this normal or should I go back and re install cams. Afraid they may be binding somehow?
how far do you think that valve is going to stick out needing something under it? You cant put enough force running those cap bolts down to do any damage to anything On a bench:)
Hey, do you know how important the lifter outside diameter to cam tray bore clearance is? Mine have a good amount of wear. But they cost about $570 each. Will I have oil starvation issues for the cam or lifters if that clearance isn't good? Great video by the way.
Hey, M3NACE! Since I am about to change HG on my m50, your videos are coming in real handy. This is my first time doing this, so I've got a question about the engine assembly lube. Is it like super important to use it, when putting everything back together or can I just apply some drops of thicker engine oil in the necessary spots instead?
it is critical. assembly lube is typically cheaper than a qt of motor oil... so as a general Assembly lube and motor oil will do the same thing but in different ways, and are used for different purposes. motor oil is a lot thinner than assembly lube, which lube acts more like a grease than an oil. for instance, you use motor oil to pre-lube cylinder walls when installing pistons, you wouldnt use assembly lube. but installing a crank or a set of cams you would use assembly lube. this goes back to assembly lube being thicker than motor oil. I think of it like water vs peanut butter. its not as extreme of a difference but the principle remains the same. peanut butter is thicker, and does not run like water. if you put water on a bananna, the water will run off, where as the peanut butter will stay on the bananna. kind of a weird comparison, but stay with me. the peanut butter sticks. when you first start the motor, you want the lube to stay on the camshafts and in the cam bearings as long as possible until the oil system starts pumping oil where it needs to be. the assembly lube, because it is thicker, will stay on the cam and in the bearings longer than motor oil, which will "run off" like water. this gives the cams a better chance to stay lubricated until the oil system pumps enough oil up into the cams to where it does not need the lube anymore.
best of luck with the rebuild my friend, I have not completed the DIY series yet but most of the critical videos are up. feel free to ask any questions you might have during the project.
Hey M3NACE, do you think it's a good idea to torque the E2 cap (the one under tension) last, and also release tension off of that cap prior to torquing the 2 nuts? As always, thanks for the hard work!
I’m going to be installing s52 cams in my m52 following this video and also the how to remove cams with the head on. Should I still use assembly lube with the head on my motor since it will have oil in it?
ruclips.net/video/6Og2mD45U80/видео.html i made a vid specifically covering cam install / removal with the head on, and yes i would still use assembly lube.
Your removal video helped me a lot with my M42. That method worked like a charm thanks so much! When you reinstall, do you have to lube the sides of the lifter that slides against the walls in the cam tray? also, i saw another vid that prepped the lifters using vacuum pump to fill them up with oil and bleed them, do i need to do that too? i dont have a vacuum pump.
have you ever had any issues with the main timing chain not having enough slack to slide onto the exhaust cam after installing the cams? I got a new chain but I'm missing about a 1/4 in of clearance.
@@M3NACE Yeh the main tensioner is out and I removed the timing cover to make sure it wasn't binding at the crank sprocket. I'm thinking it may be the ces spacer and gasket combo creating a greater distance between the cam sprocket and crank sprocket? It's about 1/4 of an inch off from being able to slide on. Most videos I've seen show much more slack on the chain
@@larryboy6577 hmm, i havent heard of anyone really having a problem with chain length, the spacer headgasket combo doesnt really add as much height as you would think. does it fit with the old chain?
@@M3NACE good question I’ll find out tomorrow. The big question is if I’ve already torqued down the arp studs to 85lbs can I still use those gaskets if the head has to come off? The reason I was considering removing the head is because of the chain guide. With the top of the guide resting in the head I don’t have enough clearance to slide the guide off of the pin it sits on. Unless there’s a way to remove the guide without removing the head
M3NACE .!!! real big fan of your work , And i have a question , you think this method could work with slightly bigger cams .? I’m talking 264/256 schrick cams not that big but i’m not sure if this method can be used with those cams .
I have been pondering this question for some time, as I plan on doing a top end build of my sedan, some supertech valve springs, a shimmed vanos unit and a set of fatty cams, 28x at least. I was thinking of doing it this way, except I was thinking about half way to tightening down cap number 2 I would throw the rest of the caps on and tighten them all down evenly the rest of the way, quarter turn on each until the whole cam is in. again I have never done it, but I would imagine it could work. the 256 cam is only 4 degrees larger than an S52 intake cam so im sure you could outright install it using this method with no issues.
Yeah that’s what i was thinking about the 256 cam and thanks a lot i’m hoping to see more content .! I’m currently doing a head gasket replacement but since i had the head off i took it to get machined , pressure checked , as well as getting the cams , new thermostat and housing , possibly solid lifters ,springs , i got all new gaskets , injectors , coils and plugs and you’re videos have helped so much with the process .! Keep it up bro !!
Ok I understand that part thanks! So maybe you can help me out! Prior to installing the head, arps, and cams I took the crank out of tdc ccw about to the 10-11 o’clock position to give me more clearance when installing the cams on the head (engine in the car) now I can’t move the crank back to tdc. What’s the deal?
Standing in front of the crank, so ccw/ backwards to get clearance. Tried turning it back CW and it doesn’t want to move. Like half an inch away from TDC mark
For anyone unable to slip a 22mm wrench on these but not excited about using a crescent wrench, I was able to hold my cams in place with a 15/16" wrench.
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
Also, thanks for mentioning the magnet method for installing the lifters. I used 12 rare earth magnets and ratchet extensions.
Hey Quinn. My cams are lined up like yours after installation but can not turn at all with wrench. Is this normal or should I go back and re install cams. Afraid they may be binding somehow?
how far do you think that valve is going to stick out needing something under it?
You cant put enough force running those cap bolts down to do any damage to anything
On a bench:)
Hi M3NACE, thank you very much for the video and I have a question,how much NM the nuts in 13:44?
22nm sir
Hey, do you know how important the lifter outside diameter to cam tray bore clearance is? Mine have a good amount of wear. But they cost about $570 each. Will I have oil starvation issues for the cam or lifters if that clearance isn't good? Great video by the way.
not sure, never heard anyone having issues with that clearance. i wouldnt worry about it.
Hey, M3NACE! Since I am about to change HG on my m50, your videos are coming in real handy. This is my first time doing this, so I've got a question about the engine assembly lube. Is it like super important to use it, when putting everything back together or can I just apply some drops of thicker engine oil in the necessary spots instead?
it is critical. assembly lube is typically cheaper than a qt of motor oil... so as a general Assembly lube and motor oil will do the same thing but in different ways, and are used for different purposes. motor oil is a lot thinner than assembly lube, which lube acts more like a grease than an oil. for instance, you use motor oil to pre-lube cylinder walls when installing pistons, you wouldnt use assembly lube. but installing a crank or a set of cams you would use assembly lube. this goes back to assembly lube being thicker than motor oil. I think of it like water vs peanut butter. its not as extreme of a difference but the principle remains the same. peanut butter is thicker, and does not run like water. if you put water on a bananna, the water will run off, where as the peanut butter will stay on the bananna. kind of a weird comparison, but stay with me. the peanut butter sticks. when you first start the motor, you want the lube to stay on the camshafts and in the cam bearings as long as possible until the oil system starts pumping oil where it needs to be. the assembly lube, because it is thicker, will stay on the cam and in the bearings longer than motor oil, which will "run off" like water. this gives the cams a better chance to stay lubricated until the oil system pumps enough oil up into the cams to where it does not need the lube anymore.
best of luck with the rebuild my friend, I have not completed the DIY series yet but most of the critical videos are up. feel free to ask any questions you might have during the project.
Makes perfect sense, so I'll go with the lube then. Thanks for the advice and good luck with your channel, M3N!
Hey M3NACE, do you think it's a good idea to torque the E2 cap (the one under tension) last, and also release tension off of that cap prior to torquing the 2 nuts? As always, thanks for the hard work!
if you want to get super technical sure, but as long as they are all torqued it doesn't really matter.
I’m going to be installing s52 cams in my m52 following this video and also the how to remove cams with the head on. Should I still use assembly lube with the head on my motor since it will have oil in it?
ruclips.net/video/6Og2mD45U80/видео.html i made a vid specifically covering cam install / removal with the head on, and yes i would still use assembly lube.
Your removal video helped me a lot with my M42. That method worked like a charm thanks so much! When you reinstall, do you have to lube the sides of the lifter that slides against the walls in the cam tray? also, i saw another vid that prepped the lifters using vacuum pump to fill them up with oil and bleed them, do i need to do that too? i dont have a vacuum pump.
Hey man great video. Can I re use the camshaft bearing nuts?
have you ever had any issues with the main timing chain not having enough slack to slide onto the exhaust cam after installing the cams? I got a new chain but I'm missing about a 1/4 in of clearance.
Is your main chain tensioner out? And is the chain getting bound up?
@@M3NACE Yeh the main tensioner is out and I removed the timing cover to make sure it wasn't binding at the crank sprocket. I'm thinking it may be the ces spacer and gasket combo creating a greater distance between the cam sprocket and crank sprocket? It's about 1/4 of an inch off from being able to slide on. Most videos I've seen show much more slack on the chain
@@larryboy6577 hmm, i havent heard of anyone really having a problem with chain length, the spacer headgasket combo doesnt really add as much height as you would think. does it fit with the old chain?
@@M3NACE good question I’ll find out tomorrow. The big question is if I’ve already torqued down the arp studs to 85lbs can I still use those gaskets if the head has to come off? The reason I was considering removing the head is because of the chain guide. With the top of the guide resting in the head I don’t have enough clearance to slide the guide off of the pin it sits on. Unless there’s a way to remove the guide without removing the head
@@larryboy6577 the gaskets will be toast if you pull the head. Ive seen a few people install guides with the head on, i havent done it though.
M3NACE .!!! real big fan of your work , And i have a question , you think this method could work with slightly bigger cams .? I’m talking 264/256 schrick cams not that big but i’m not sure if this method can be used with those cams .
I have been pondering this question for some time, as I plan on doing a top end build of my sedan, some supertech valve springs, a shimmed vanos unit and a set of fatty cams, 28x at least. I was thinking of doing it this way, except I was thinking about half way to tightening down cap number 2 I would throw the rest of the caps on and tighten them all down evenly the rest of the way, quarter turn on each until the whole cam is in. again I have never done it, but I would imagine it could work. the 256 cam is only 4 degrees larger than an S52 intake cam so im sure you could outright install it using this method with no issues.
Yeah that’s what i was thinking about the 256 cam and thanks a lot i’m
hoping to see more content .! I’m currently doing a head gasket replacement but since i had the head off i took it to get machined , pressure checked , as well as getting the cams , new thermostat and housing , possibly solid lifters ,springs , i got all new gaskets , injectors , coils and plugs and you’re videos have helped so much with the process .! Keep it up bro !!
Erick Garcia no problem man! Are you upgrading your valve springs as well or no?
awesome! will do man, I post videos every week lol
Is this the only method to install the cams? Was the preload on the valve necessary?
not the only method, but my preferred method. I explain why the preload is necessary on the cam removal video. these cams snap if you are not careful.
Ok I understand that part thanks! So maybe you can help me out! Prior to installing the head, arps, and cams I took the crank out of tdc ccw about to the 10-11 o’clock position to give me more clearance when installing the cams on the head (engine in the car) now I can’t move the crank back to tdc. What’s the deal?
@@endamuselohsee1126 did you crank it backwards or forwards? ruclips.net/video/6Og2mD45U80/видео.html
Standing in front of the crank, so ccw/ backwards to get clearance. Tried turning it back CW and it doesn’t want to move. Like half an inch away from TDC mark
Watched the video in the link, and I did exactly what you did but backwards
Hey M3NACE, what is the exactly torque for the admission and exhaust cams? thanks bro i like your videos
srry for my english xD
11 pound-feet my good sir.
For anyone unable to slip a 22mm wrench on these but not excited about using a crescent wrench, I was able to hold my cams in place with a 15/16" wrench.
great how to video !
Excellent video ,thanks!!