i don't know if the spacer is strictly necessary. i have a 302 f150 with a carburetor, and i put on an aluminum intake and a phenolic spacer. it's necessary for that because with ethanol in the gas nowadays the carburetor can get vapor locked and stop sucking gas, so it has to stay cool. it's also in the middle of a v8 with a big air cleaner above it, so it's in a fairly heat prone area - on purpose, because the engine was originally designed with a cast iron intake that took forever to heat up in the winter, so much so that they piped exhaust into the intake manifold to gather up some heat. that being said, on these turbo volvos with an intercooler, there is cold, high volume air piped directly into the intake through the throttle body. that's going to remove a lot of the heat. also, aluminum is conductive enough that it's good at collecting heat, but it's also good at dispersing heat. the throttle body is located somewhat far away from the valve train and the exhaust, so it's not likely to get too warm, i would guess. the heat also has to travel through 2 gaskets and 12" of metal to get there. the computer, meanwhile, is probably built to withstand 350 degrees anyway, as that's the average temperature under the hood during operation. the spacer won't hurt anything either but just wanted to say in case anyone watching this gets worried about it. personally i think the original design is ok as it is, though a little cumbersome to work on
I'm doing this job on my 2006 V70. OEM here too. Now I'm going to be extra careful replacing those o-rings. What I don't get is that the oem o-rings I bought come in a set of 2 for each injector. Where does the other one go? Nice to see it all apart like you have it here. Funny that we have to cut a notch out of the new gasket! Also nice to see the back of the engine opened up. I'm doing all the cam seals so I'll be in there soon. Watching other videos, yeah that banjo bolt looks to be a bi*ch, but seeing it here all open really helps me frame what's going on. Thanks for sharing all this. Nice job.
I just posted a video of this PCV fix too. The other issue you may be having with the variable valve timing is that when you install the timing belt, you must hold the toothed-belt gear (on the end of the VVT unit) until it bottoms out in one direction (can't remember off the top of my head which way, it has been a long time) If you don't hold that toothed belt-gear over, the timing will be off. There are several other RUclips videos outlining the procedure. If you did that and still have an issue then I apologize for sticking my nose in here. Nice detailed video of the PCV hose change. All the best. New subscriber here. Craig
VVT units fail at the cam bearing and start leaking after around 100k miles and should be replaced whenever a new timing belt is installed. Also, a plugged PCV system will create an overpressure situation which will blow out one or more camshaft seals.
Thanks for your video, it really helped me fixed my 2003 XC70, I'm also a volvo enthusiast. Quick question, how were you able to get the Vida software, and where did you buy the DICE hardware. I can't seem to be able to find a reliable place to purchase them. Thank you again. I love your content.
I purchased a laptop & Mongoose Cable (not DICE) here: diaglaptops.com/wp/ I'm still learning to use it. I keep a cheap OBD2 unit in the car for immediate use - when needed. :)
I wonder... I'm probably crazy, but I bet I can do it without taking off the manifold and just lay under the car to get at the stuff needed taking out. The kit at my local online shop here in Sweden has the whole kit, gasket, piping, clamps, oil retainer box. I'll need to really get under it and get a good look.
Good luck with that. About the time that your PCV system gets plugged, your starter motor is going to be old and a likely candidate for replacement, as are the fuel injectors and ignition coils, and likely the EVAP Emission tubing as well. The VVT units are likely to also have developed a worn cam bearing and oil leak. The throttle body will also likely have a lot of carbon buildup that can interfere with its functioning. So it is false economy to not replace/clean all that stuff when replacing the PCV plumbing. Going whole hog to replace all that stuff around 150k miles is going to give your Svêdish hjöoptie another 150k of service life.
banjo bolts have torque specs that you can find online, itd probably be somewhere around 25-35nM for the bigger pressurized 19mm one and maybe 15-25nM for the 17mm one, i could be wrong ab the specifications im just guessing based on some knowledge please correct me if im wrong
No leeks from either XC70 or V70 banjo bolts / copper washers after getting up to temp with the 'Italian Tuneup'. I'll check the Haynes manual again for a spec...
I'm not sure if it sets a fault code. I could see the oil pan / cooler seals were leaking indicating the system was pressurized - can also use a glove test on the oil fill. You can see in the video how much oil trap leakage was on the front of the block.
Put mine back together without the plastic broken retainer clip - it's been fine but I need to be careful not to lose an o-ring next time I pull it out. I think there are replacement o-ring kits that include the plastic retainers. believe I saw it on Amazon?
It's totally false economy to not replace all five fuel injectors when pulling the intake manifold and fuel rail. Fresh FIs is one of the best performance enhancer there is.
That pin and ball in the PCV intake banjo bolt is notorious for failing and getting sucked into the #2 cylinder and then breaking one or the other intake valve springs or bending the valve stem. That happened with my 2002 XC70 at around 170k miles. I had to pull the entire head and press in a new valve and spring, and so I used the opportunity to tear down and replace the head gasket and head bolts, the PCV system, the EVAP Emission tubing, the starter motor, fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator, ignition coils, the VVT unit and solenoid, cam shaft seals, one of which blew out because the PVC system was plugged, the throttle body solenoid, and the turbocharger and vacuum lines. My chief advice for anyone who owns or buys a high-miler V70 is to bite the bullet and replace all that stuff so you can get another 150k miles out of it. Lather, rinse, repeat every 150k miles and you can keep your Svêdish hjöoptie running for half a million miles or more.
i don't know if the spacer is strictly necessary. i have a 302 f150 with a carburetor, and i put on an aluminum intake and a phenolic spacer. it's necessary for that because with ethanol in the gas nowadays the carburetor can get vapor locked and stop sucking gas, so it has to stay cool. it's also in the middle of a v8 with a big air cleaner above it, so it's in a fairly heat prone area - on purpose, because the engine was originally designed with a cast iron intake that took forever to heat up in the winter, so much so that they piped exhaust into the intake manifold to gather up some heat.
that being said, on these turbo volvos with an intercooler, there is cold, high volume air piped directly into the intake through the throttle body. that's going to remove a lot of the heat. also, aluminum is conductive enough that it's good at collecting heat, but it's also good at dispersing heat. the throttle body is located somewhat far away from the valve train and the exhaust, so it's not likely to get too warm, i would guess. the heat also has to travel through 2 gaskets and 12" of metal to get there. the computer, meanwhile, is probably built to withstand 350 degrees anyway, as that's the average temperature under the hood during operation.
the spacer won't hurt anything either but just wanted to say in case anyone watching this gets worried about it. personally i think the original design is ok as it is, though a little cumbersome to work on
I'm doing this job on my 2006 V70. OEM here too. Now I'm going to be extra careful replacing those o-rings. What I don't get is that the oem o-rings I bought come in a set of 2 for each injector. Where does the other one go? Nice to see it all apart like you have it here. Funny that we have to cut a notch out of the new gasket! Also nice to see the back of the engine opened up. I'm doing all the cam seals so I'll be in there soon. Watching other videos, yeah that banjo bolt looks to be a bi*ch, but seeing it here all open really helps me frame what's going on. Thanks for sharing all this. Nice job.
The other o-ring goes on the bottom of the injector that sits in the ports in the fuel rail.
@@MM-vv8mt Thanks. And I noticed that the top one and bottom are just slightly different sizes.
I just posted a video of this PCV fix too. The other issue you may be having with the variable valve timing is that when you install the timing belt, you must hold the toothed-belt gear (on the end of the VVT unit) until it bottoms out in one direction (can't remember off the top of my head which way, it has been a long time) If you don't hold that toothed belt-gear over, the timing will be off. There are several other RUclips videos outlining the procedure. If you did that and still have an issue then I apologize for sticking my nose in here. Nice detailed video of the PCV hose change. All the best. New subscriber here. Craig
VVT units fail at the cam bearing and start leaking after around 100k miles and should be replaced whenever a new timing belt is installed. Also, a plugged PCV system will create an overpressure situation which will blow out one or more camshaft seals.
@4:23 those are knock sensors not grounds from alternator. 😞
Really? Had no idea what those were.
Thanks for your video, it really helped me fixed my 2003 XC70, I'm also a volvo enthusiast. Quick question, how were you able to get the Vida software, and where did you buy the DICE hardware. I can't seem to be able to find a reliable place to purchase them. Thank you again. I love your content.
I purchased a laptop & Mongoose Cable (not DICE) here:
diaglaptops.com/wp/
I'm still learning to use it. I keep a cheap OBD2 unit in the car for immediate use - when needed. :)
I wonder... I'm probably crazy, but I bet I can do it without taking off the manifold and just lay under the car to get at the stuff needed taking out. The kit at my local online shop here in Sweden has the whole kit, gasket, piping, clamps, oil retainer box. I'll need to really get under it and get a good look.
Maybe. There was a post that said you can reach the difficult manifold banjo bolt from underneath with extension / knuckles but I haven't tried it.
Let us know how that goes please. I'm performing this maintenance over July 4th weekend
Good luck with that. About the time that your PCV system gets plugged, your starter motor is going to be old and a likely candidate for replacement, as are the fuel injectors and ignition coils, and likely the EVAP Emission tubing as well. The VVT units are likely to also have developed a worn cam bearing and oil leak. The throttle body will also likely have a lot of carbon buildup that can interfere with its functioning. So it is false economy to not replace/clean all that stuff when replacing the PCV plumbing. Going whole hog to replace all that stuff around 150k miles is going to give your Svêdish hjöoptie another 150k of service life.
banjo bolts have torque specs that you can find online, itd probably be somewhere around 25-35nM for the bigger pressurized 19mm one and maybe 15-25nM for the 17mm one, i could be wrong ab the specifications im just guessing based on some knowledge please correct me if im wrong
No leeks from either XC70 or V70 banjo bolts / copper washers after getting up to temp with the 'Italian Tuneup'. I'll check the Haynes manual again for a spec...
Hi. My friend
When the PCV valve fails does any fault code occur? How do I know if the PCV valve is failing?
I'm not sure if it sets a fault code. I could see the oil pan / cooler seals were leaking indicating the system was pressurized - can also use a glove test on the oil fill. You can see in the video how much oil trap leakage was on the front of the block.
@@jamiecars Ok. Thanks
Hey Jamie,when I took the fuel rail off I had two of those “plastic o ring retainers” missing. Do I have to replace the whole injector now?
Put mine back together without the plastic broken retainer clip - it's been fine but I need to be careful not to lose an o-ring next time I pull it out. I think there are replacement o-ring kits that include the plastic retainers. believe I saw it on Amazon?
It's totally false economy to not replace all five fuel injectors when pulling the intake manifold and fuel rail. Fresh FIs is one of the best performance enhancer there is.
Have they fixed the banjo bolts that had a little pin that would fall of and ruin the engine.
Yes - redesigned pcv banjo bolt on the intake connection. No longer an issue.
That pin and ball in the PCV intake banjo bolt is notorious for failing and getting sucked into the #2 cylinder and then breaking one or the other intake valve springs or bending the valve stem. That happened with my 2002 XC70 at around 170k miles. I had to pull the entire head and press in a new valve and spring, and so I used the opportunity to tear down and replace the head gasket and head bolts, the PCV system, the EVAP Emission tubing, the starter motor, fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator, ignition coils, the VVT unit and solenoid, cam shaft seals, one of which blew out because the PVC system was plugged, the throttle body solenoid, and the turbocharger and vacuum lines.
My chief advice for anyone who owns or buys a high-miler V70 is to bite the bullet and replace all that stuff so you can get another 150k miles out of it. Lather, rinse, repeat every 150k miles and you can keep your Svêdish hjöoptie running for half a million miles or more.
THATS NOT GROUNDS THATS KNOCK SENSORS ON SIDE OF BLOCK TWO OF THEM
injector pintle caps. replace them all.
Will have to wait until next time I pull off the fuel rail / injectors...