I took care of the problem by using a ventilated oil cap from a Volvo 140. When it's really bad you will see the oil lamp start blinking. Change the cap and your oil pressure is back and leaks are gone and the engine runs better. It should work on any manufacturer with a sealed PCV system.
I do NOT recommend using a glove or anything else that might fall inside or get sucked in. Some oil fill necks have strainers and others don't. Much safer to loosen the oil cap and see if the gases are coming out or going in. Even easier if you or your friend smoke or vape and can supply test smoke to see which way the air is going
Loving the HubNut ziptie 🤣 I had to do the PCV on my first P80 V70 and my V50 T5. The P80 was the same as this, the V50 has the PCV box under the oil filter so it is considerably easier to change. When Bev's went I entrusted it to my local Volvo specialist this time as I don't have the time. They also found the filler cap was weeping badly so the oil leak I thought I had was actually that. Great video fella
@@joey_bag_a_donuts Well, you can get a false reading otherwise. You wouldn't want that, would you? There is a YT video that shows the test failing when cold, but passing when warm. There is your answer.
Important note - you have to do this test with the engine warm. You did, but it is important to know that if the engine is not warm, unpredictable results can occur. For example, it might appear to blow, but when warm it sucks.
Thanks, I might revisit this as I actually didn't change the PCV in the end. The parts I'd bought (aftermarket) seemed to have a reputational issue. As I've had no issues with excessive oil leaks or running issues I've just kept it running. Plan to get the genuine bits in the spring, but I'll repeat the test on a hot engine first :)
Having done this test a few times on my 5-cylinder Volvos, the vacuum is not so great that the glove can be sucked in. If you are concerned, just drape the glove over the opening while the engine is running, holding an edge of it. I used this method.
I've got the bits but I keep putting off the job. Thankfully the pressure hasn't proved to be too excessive. I bought an aftermarket kit and heard bad things about it, so I'll get the genuine Volvo items and then hopefully get it done in the spring.
I have the parts to do it but I've not yet started the work as I need a couple of extra tools. I will putting out a video of the process when I do however sometime in the new year :)
My engine(19 vw 2.0tsi) was creating a massive vortex of a vacume at the oil cap and a random misfire @ 2k-4k rpm. I replaced the pcv and now it has quite a bit of positive pressure. Strangely enough, therese a vacume at the dipstick hole and no misfire. I fixed one problem but i still feel like its not quite right and louder. No codes, its a mystery
I have a similar engine setup, and I am wondering as I cannot locate it myself. Do you happen to know where the fuel pressure sensor is located? Every video shows on the fuel rail where the valve is and it is quite frustrating. Thank you!
Interesting - I assumed the test was the same for both Turbo & normally aspirated engines - I'll look into this more. I may repeat the test as some have advised it also needs to be done with a warm engine.
You've clearly never had the horror and expense of doing it on one of these 🤣 - it's quite involved due to the location of the PCV box (behind the manifold).
@@indecisiveautoThat's true, I haven't on that engine. I'd likely do it anyway though - it's pretty much a consumable part. I've done EGRs in far worse locations. DIY will cost you a manifold gasket, PCV, some time, and inevitable replacement of missing 10mm sockets 🙂 I'd be replacing it as a matter of course if you like the car.
That's something new learned today, thanks for such a easy explanation of what a PCV does. I look forward to watching your fix 😃
I took care of the problem by using a ventilated oil cap from a Volvo 140.
When it's really bad you will see the oil lamp start blinking. Change the cap and your oil pressure is back and leaks are gone and the engine runs better. It should work on any manufacturer with a sealed PCV system.
I do NOT recommend using a glove or anything else that might fall inside or get sucked in. Some oil fill necks have strainers and others don't. Much safer to loosen the oil cap and see if the gases are coming out or going in. Even easier if you or your friend smoke or vape and can supply test smoke to see which way the air is going
These engines have a plate right under the filler cap that wouldn't allow it to get sucked in.
Everyone uses the glove. The normal suction is not so great that a glove would be sucked in.
Very
nice and
good note . 👌🏾
Thats why you secure the glove, duh.
There’s a slatted screen on modular oil fillers
Thank you ; 👌🏽
Very excellent 👍🏽
troubleshooting . 🌹
Thanks for the video, showing the blown up glove. On the RAV4, it blew as well, but the PCV was fine. They must have different systems.
Loving the HubNut ziptie 🤣 I had to do the PCV on my first P80 V70 and my V50 T5. The P80 was the same as this, the V50 has the PCV box under the oil filter so it is considerably easier to change. When Bev's went I entrusted it to my local Volvo specialist this time as I don't have the time. They also found the filler cap was weeping badly so the oil leak I thought I had was actually that. Great video fella
Thanks - given the outcome of the test (which I expected tbh given the oil leaks I'd found) the use of that particular cable tie felt appropriate :D
Thank's for the video , I will check this in my old Toyota and see what happen.
Sorry for the fail, but thanks for the test idea and example!
Good vid mate. Thanks
Just an important note, the test is to be done once the engine is warm.
Why?
@@joey_bag_a_donuts Well, you can get a false reading otherwise. You wouldn't want that, would you? There is a YT video that shows the test failing when cold, but passing when warm. There is your answer.
Important note - you have to do this test with the engine warm. You did, but it is important to know that if the engine is not warm, unpredictable results can occur. For example, it might appear to blow, but when warm it sucks.
Thanks, I might revisit this as I actually didn't change the PCV in the end. The parts I'd bought (aftermarket) seemed to have a reputational issue. As I've had no issues with excessive oil leaks or running issues I've just kept it running. Plan to get the genuine bits in the spring, but I'll repeat the test on a hot engine first :)
Great vidoe
That's normal in almost all brand new factory 4 cylinders. 6 and 8 cylinders generates good vacuum at idle but 4 cylinders can not.
This is 5 cylincers 🫠
Nice singing! 😂
I'm (not) classically trained I'll have you know :P
I don’t trust the glove not getting sucked in the engine.
Having done this test a few times on my 5-cylinder Volvos, the vacuum is not so great that the glove can be sucked in. If you are concerned, just drape the glove over the opening while the engine is running, holding an edge of it. I used this method.
Did you ever do the follow up video on the pcv valve test. I looked through your videos but didn't see one.
I've got the bits but I keep putting off the job. Thankfully the pressure hasn't proved to be too excessive. I bought an aftermarket kit and heard bad things about it, so I'll get the genuine Volvo items and then hopefully get it done in the spring.
Do you have a second video detailing how you change the PCV system?
I have the parts to do it but I've not yet started the work as I need a couple of extra tools. I will putting out a video of the process when I do however sometime in the new year :)
My engine(19 vw 2.0tsi) was creating a massive vortex of a vacume at the oil cap and a random misfire @ 2k-4k rpm. I replaced the pcv and now it has quite a bit of positive pressure. Strangely enough, therese a vacume at the dipstick hole and no misfire. I fixed one problem but i still feel like its not quite right and louder. No codes, its a mystery
E888 Gen 3s typically have vaccum at the oil cap
I wouldn't have thought that little amount of gas would be a fail. Oh well....
I have a similar engine setup, and I am wondering as I cannot locate it myself. Do you happen to know where the fuel pressure sensor is located? Every video shows on the fuel rail where the valve is and it is quite frustrating. Thank you!
This video from FCP Euro might help you out (I'm not 100% sure but the sensor & regulator may be one unit).
ruclips.net/video/j_xlUn1TIzo/видео.html
Did you ever do this job?
Nu e valabil si pentru moarele Turbo. Doar la motoarele aspirate trebuie sa aspire
Interesting - I assumed the test was the same for both Turbo & normally aspirated engines - I'll look into this more. I may repeat the test as some have advised it also needs to be done with a warm engine.
Why would you bother with this test?
Buy a high mileage car? Buy a £20 PCV.
You've clearly never had the horror and expense of doing it on one of these 🤣 - it's quite involved due to the location of the PCV box (behind the manifold).
@@indecisiveautoThat's true, I haven't on that engine.
I'd likely do it anyway though - it's pretty much a consumable part.
I've done EGRs in far worse locations.
DIY will cost you a manifold gasket, PCV, some time, and inevitable replacement of missing 10mm sockets 🙂
I'd be replacing it as a matter of course if you like the car.