YOU GUYS NEED YOUR STEELS ALL IN THE SAME DIRECTION THERE IS A FRONT AND BACK HE DOESNT MENTION THAT. THERES A SLIGHT ROUND EDGE AND A FLAT SIDE to the edges MOST PEOPLE SAY PUT THEN ALL IN 1 DIRECTION AND IT DOESNT MATTER BUT SOME SAY ROUND SIDE FACING IN TOWARDS THE BIKE thats what i do. And He didnt tell us to soak our new plates in oil for a couple hours before doing it but he did it.
YOU GUYS NEED YOUR STEELS ALL IN THE SAME DIRECTION THERE IS A FRONT AND BACK HE DOESNT MENTION THAT. THERES A SLIGHT ROUND EDGE AND A FLAT SIDE to the edges MOST PEOPLE SAY PUT THEN ALL IN 1 DIRECTION AND IT DOESNT MATTER BUT SOME SAY ROUND SIDE FACING IN TOWARDS THE BIKE thats what i do. And He didnt tell us to soak our new plates in oil for a couple hours before doing it but he did it.
This is such a useful video dude! I need to do the same thing on my fazer... I replaced the clutch on my 4c8 R1 last month and wanted to check if it was the same sequence with regards to putting the cover back on... I also managed to shear off the bolt in the clutch basket nut on the R1 with torque wrench! I guess it's a common yam issue with poor fasteners
When you adjust the cable you foregot the mid cable adjuster.First you lock off the bottom nuts.Then go around to the other side of the bike and adjust the mid cable adjuster, it's just forward of the airbox.Pull the cable down and adjust here to take out most of the slack at the lever.Finally you do fine adjustment with the top adjuster (clutch lever)If you do it this way then you should still have full adjustment available at the lever...
Very usefull, however i did it myself too and there is arround near stationairy screw the (plastic one) also a part where you can adjust the cable! Start there and then move up to you clutchlever screw.Good luck, btw replace the springs in the clutch for an aftermarket one because they are stiffer and even springs worn out over time.
After lots of searching, I found out it was the Barnett's clutch that causes the drag, I will however stick to OEM clutch in future. "Barnett clutch plates have a reputation of locking up really well, esp for drag race applications, but also creating drag that makes it near impossible to find neutral with the engine running. You may not have Barnett's but you have the same problem. I suggest either living with it, or going to another brand of clutch plates. EBC and KG clutch factory plates do not have the same problem."
In place of the gasket, you can use a product called The Rightstuff. Ok for oil contact, not for fuel. You only need to let it set up for 10 mins after assembly.
Doing my dr650 clutch I just pulled the whole disk stack out in one shot . Probably the wrong way but it worked. Got my finger on the rear of the stack and wiggled the whole deal till the whole thing came out .
Great job Dave. I have just replaced my clutch cable and unless I have the cable fully adjusted up the gear change is very clunky. The clutch doesn't slip but is this a sign of a worn clutch too.? My bike has 50000kms on it. I do fan the clutch to pull wheelstands?
I'm having the same problem. That plug he's talkin about behind the pressure plate puts pressure on the actuator arm holding it out straight. I can't find it and none of the parts schematics. If you can please send me the part #.
Great video but the critical bit about refitting the casing is missing. I can see the position of the push rod but when the casing is pushed on how is the actuator (the piece on the casing) aligned? Im struggling!
Ian Gibbons Ok. I learned from further reading the some will use a bit of grease on the push rod to keep it in place, since it wanted to rotate from it's ideal position. As I recall, the actuator arm tried to go out from about a 90 degree angle from the engine. It is frustrating, but practice without the gasket before you do a final assembly. that push rod is a Pain when it rotates. The grease to hold it in place will help. Dave
Sorted this out now. I had to move the bike and put it on the side stand. As a result the incline stopped the push rod (pull rod) rotating. Easy to replace then. Thanks for a great video!
Did you forget to put your Springs back in? The two steel discs that you took off from the back of the clutch you left them laying under the bike. Did you have to take it all back apart and put those back in?
YOU GUYS NEED YOUR STEELS ALL IN THE SAME DIRECTION THERE IS A FRONT AND BACK HE DOESNT MENTION THAT. THERES A SLIGHT ROUND EDGE AND A FLAT SIDE to the edges MOST PEOPLE SAY PUT THEN ALL IN 1 DIRECTION AND IT DOESNT MATTER BUT SOME SAY ROUND SIDE FACING IN TOWARDS THE BIKE thats what i do. And He didnt tell us to soak our new plates in oil for a couple hours before doing it but he did it.
Wow brother great video! Acouple questions though, what was the fluid you had the new clutch submerged in? Just oil or something? Also what clutch kit did you purchase? Looks extremely easy thanks for the video I was going to pay a shop to do it.
I have a 2001 FZ1. I've been having clutch problems. That plug you're talkin about behind the pressure plate isn't in mine. I cannot find it in the parts schematic anywhere. Any help finding a part # would be greatly appreciated.
Try Yamahapartspro.com. idk if they will have the part. Otherwise look on ebay. You might ask someone on yamahafz1oa.com if they have the part. They are pretty helpful.
Great vid! Can you refer me to what forum you use? Im interested in seeing if i can adjust my clutch before swapping it out. If you have a video or resource on adjusting the clutch please share! Just bought me an 05 fz1!! Clutch slips when I hammer on it around 8k in higher gears.
Yamahafz1oa.com Yes you can adjust at the lever and at the clutch cover end of the cable. I have been told there is also a center cable adjuster but elect not to mess with it. Thanks for the comment!
My bike has done 70,000km+, when put on center stand, the rear wheel is spinning even when the clutch lever is fully pulled in, is the clutch finishing? Can I change the clutch only without changing the steel plates?
Hi, I have changed all the friction plates, steel plates and springs by a mechanic, but when the bike was put on center stand with first gear, when I pulled the clutch lever all the way, even with the adjustment to the tightest, the rear wheel was spinning, much faster than my 7 year old worn out clutch, can you please tell me what is wrong? I want the wheel to stop spinning when the lever is pulled in, that is supposed to be the function of the clutch, is it? Also the B plate went in 1st like the original, please advice what went wrong.
@@motto666 The clutch is supposed to spin, the viscosity of the oil between the plates and pads leaves enough friction to spin the rear wheel. It might actually be bad if your rear wheel doesnt spin, in some cases this means the clutch isnt adjusted properly or is too worn and needs to be replaced. Youve described a healthy clutch and it sounds like youve done a good job 👍.
@@TheGamersRace The rear wheel is not supposed to spin when clutch is fully pulled in, which was exactly when I bought it 8 years back. I had changed to Barnett, but to find out it was for drag racing, the pattern of the friction pads are longer, and it grabbed like hell, it was worst than before the change, anyway lasted less than 5k km and broke.
Jack Jones No I dont. But I did have to have that done. Stealership charged me $600.00 to get it done. You might want to check on r1s and fjrs to see if there is a video on it. They are almost the same.
I just did this process on my 02 fz1 and now instead of clutch slipping in the higher RPM it slips low RPM until it catches. Any ideas what could cause this?
@@donkndave7811 I soaked my plates in 15w40 instead of 20w40 and planned on doing a oil change next week. Must be the oil because I’m pretty certain I did everything else right
@@donkndave7811 so I redid the whole thing with new friction plates but now when I click it into gear it just immediately dies. Any ideas? I think I may need to replace the clutch plates as well as friction plates or I put them in the wrong order?
@@StraightothePointNews , check your switch at the kickstand. Dies or cuts off? You may have them in the wrong order. The steel plates should be ok. It's the friction plates that wear. I do not have the manual to tell you the order of the friction plates. Hope it works out.
@@donkndave7811 I can’t even begin to explain all the stress you have saved me by replying to this thread so quickly I really appreciate it man helps a lot if u can’t tell I’m a dirt bike guy who’s a newb to the street bikes. Didn’t even realize my bike won’t go into gear with the kickstand down till now😂
That is pretty normal. Of course it would depend on how hard one rides. I dont do wheelies but mostly sport-tour. But did go to the drag strip a few times.
Did you resolve the issue? sorry I'm late in responding. you most likely needed to adjust the clutch cable out where it connects to the clutch shifter arm. Then adjust out on the upper clutch adjuster. Hope you got it fixed ok. Dave
I believe they are T Rex sliders. They mount in the frame mount holes and came with longer bolts. I also wrapped the sliders with grip tape and use the sliders as highway pegs. Works well. Thanks!
Hi Dave, what brand and model did you replace with? I replaced with Barnett, it had so much drag and unable to put to neutral and less than 5k km, I think it is broken, just like the cable is broken, there is no pressure, now there is no way to clutch in when stop, engine will dies. I need to get another set close to oem specs, what do you recommend.
As clutch plates wear they will lose thickness, which is why you have to adjust the clutch cable until you cant. The steel plates generally do not wear out and can be reused. Hope this helped.
@@loucksm1rpg , There is an order( according to plate thickness) to follow to install the plates. I cant remember the order. Please search for that information. It might be on the yamahafz1oa.com forum.
Respect for doing this whole job with a helmet on for the sake of documenting!
Thanks
YOU GUYS NEED YOUR STEELS ALL IN THE SAME DIRECTION THERE IS A FRONT AND BACK HE DOESNT MENTION THAT. THERES A SLIGHT ROUND EDGE AND A FLAT SIDE to the edges MOST PEOPLE SAY PUT THEN ALL IN 1 DIRECTION AND IT DOESNT MATTER BUT SOME SAY ROUND SIDE FACING IN TOWARDS THE BIKE thats what i do. And He didnt tell us to soak our new plates in oil for a couple hours before doing it but he did it.
Thanks for a great video. Was going to pay someone to change mine, but I think I can do it after watching this. Thanks again..
YOU GUYS NEED YOUR STEELS ALL IN THE SAME DIRECTION THERE IS A FRONT AND BACK HE DOESNT MENTION THAT. THERES A SLIGHT ROUND EDGE AND A FLAT SIDE to the edges MOST PEOPLE SAY PUT THEN ALL IN 1 DIRECTION AND IT DOESNT MATTER BUT SOME SAY ROUND SIDE FACING IN TOWARDS THE BIKE thats what i do. And He didnt tell us to soak our new plates in oil for a couple hours before doing it but he did it.
THX for posting! Will maybe doin on my fzs, so this is very helpful.
Thanks for the post, just changed noisy pressure plate bearing on mine. your video helped a lot
stoked for this video, just got all my parts in and about to do my FZ's clutch and alternator!
This is such a useful video dude! I need to do the same thing on my fazer... I replaced the clutch on my 4c8 R1 last month and wanted to check if it was the same sequence with regards to putting the cover back on... I also managed to shear off the bolt in the clutch basket nut on the R1 with torque wrench! I guess it's a common yam issue with poor fasteners
There not poor quality fasteners their fabricated that way so you don't crack the basket mounting inserts by over tightening
When you adjust the cable you foregot the mid cable adjuster.First you lock off the bottom nuts.Then go around to the other side of the bike and adjust the mid cable adjuster, it's just forward of the airbox.Pull the cable down and adjust here to take out most of the slack at the lever.Finally you do fine adjustment with the top adjuster (clutch lever)If you do it this way then you should still have full adjustment available at the lever...
Good input.
Thank you for making this video! Good job!
Thanks. Glad it helped.
Very helpful video, many thanks for posting!
Very usefull, however i did it myself too and there is arround near stationairy screw the (plastic one) also a part where you can adjust the cable! Start there and then move up to you clutchlever screw.Good luck, btw replace the springs in the clutch for an aftermarket one because they are stiffer and even springs worn out over time.
Good informative video mate, thumbs up...
Just got a 2009 fz1 very good info to know
That's helpful, I was wary of grease, but it's a clutch not a brake!
After lots of searching, I found out it was the Barnett's clutch that
causes the drag, I will however stick to OEM clutch in future.
"Barnett clutch plates have a reputation of locking up really well, esp
for drag race applications, but also creating drag that makes it near
impossible to find neutral with the engine running. You may not have
Barnett's but you have the same problem. I suggest either living with
it, or going to another brand of clutch plates. EBC and KG clutch
factory plates do not have the same problem."
Glad I read this. Thanks man
In place of the gasket, you can use a product called The Rightstuff. Ok for oil contact, not for fuel. You only need to let it set up for 10 mins after assembly.
Mister......vaseline holds parts in orientation and is soluble in oil. I use it to rebuild steering sectors to hold the ball bearings in place.
For single digit torque get an inch pound torque wrench. 12 inch lbs = 1 ft lb so 69 inch lbs is 5.8 ft lbs.
Thank you for making this
Thanks Dave, interesting video.
Doing my dr650 clutch I just pulled the whole disk stack out in one shot . Probably the wrong way but it worked. Got my finger on the rear of the stack and wiggled the whole deal till the whole thing came out .
Good job!
very entertaining and helpful, cheers
Great job Dave. I have just replaced my clutch cable and unless I have the cable fully adjusted up the gear change is very clunky. The clutch doesn't slip but is this a sign of a worn clutch too.? My bike has 50000kms on it. I do fan the clutch to pull wheelstands?
These are fun and fast bikes,I own one
Thank you!!
Hey very helpful thank you .
So you don't need to change a oil from the bike at all to do this?
Thank you for this!
Crazy thing about those bolt-springs. My first bike I broke one too. Never use the torque wrench on those again.
My clutch arm broke re installing any place I can find this part
I never seen a torque wrench go as low as 5 ft-lbs, sure the specs are not in inch-lbs?
My clutch actuator arm inside the thing that’s hell to line up, is flopping loose
I'm having the same problem. That plug he's talkin about behind the pressure plate puts pressure on the actuator arm holding it out straight. I can't find it and none of the parts schematics. If you can please send me the part #.
Snapping a bolt is the worst!
Great video but the critical bit about refitting the casing is missing. I can see the position of the push rod but when the casing is pushed on how is the actuator (the piece on the casing) aligned? Im struggling!
Ian Gibbons Ok. I learned from further reading the some will use a bit of grease on the push rod to keep it in place, since it wanted to rotate from it's ideal position. As I recall, the actuator arm tried to go out from about a 90 degree angle from the engine. It is frustrating, but practice without the gasket before you do a final assembly. that push rod is a Pain when it rotates. The grease to hold it in place will help. Dave
Sorted this out now. I had to move the bike and put it on the side stand. As a result the incline stopped the push rod (pull rod) rotating. Easy to replace then. Thanks for a great video!
Ian Gibbons I'm really glad it worked out for you. Thanks for keeping me updated. Hopefully our conversation will help the next guy, too.
you can also poke a telescoping magnet through the oil filler hole and hold it in place. it is still very fiddly.
@@donkndave7811 definitely helped me appreciate y’all very much
Did you forget to put your Springs back in? The two steel discs that you took off from the back of the clutch you left them laying under the bike. Did you have to take it all back apart and put those back in?
KLOC TOWER I got it all back in. No worries. :)
YOU GUYS NEED YOUR STEELS ALL IN THE SAME DIRECTION THERE IS A FRONT AND BACK HE DOESNT MENTION THAT. THERES A SLIGHT ROUND EDGE AND A FLAT SIDE to the edges MOST PEOPLE SAY PUT THEN ALL IN 1 DIRECTION AND IT DOESNT MATTER BUT SOME SAY ROUND SIDE FACING IN TOWARDS THE BIKE thats what i do. And He didnt tell us to soak our new plates in oil for a couple hours before doing it but he did it.
Wow brother great video! Acouple questions though, what was the fluid you had the new clutch submerged in? Just oil or something? Also what clutch kit did you purchase? Looks extremely easy thanks for the video I was going to pay a shop to do it.
Hi, it`s the same oil you have in your engine, it`s a "wet" clutch.
I have a 2001 FZ1. I've been having clutch problems. That plug you're talkin about behind the pressure plate isn't in mine. I cannot find it in the parts schematic anywhere. Any help finding a part # would be greatly appreciated.
Try Yamahapartspro.com. idk if they will have the part. Otherwise look on ebay. You might ask someone on yamahafz1oa.com if they have the part. They are pretty helpful.
Great vid! Can you refer me to what forum you use? Im interested in seeing if i can adjust my clutch before swapping it out. If you have a video or resource on adjusting the clutch please share! Just bought me an 05 fz1!! Clutch slips when I hammer on it around 8k in higher gears.
Yamahafz1oa.com
Yes you can adjust at the lever and at the clutch cover end of the cable. I have been told there is also a center cable adjuster but elect not to mess with it. Thanks for the comment!
My bike has done 70,000km+, when put on center stand, the rear wheel is spinning even when the clutch lever is fully pulled in, is the clutch finishing? Can I change the clutch only without changing the steel plates?
Motto Check your clutch adjudtment. . Yes you can just replace without changing steel plates. . :)
Hi, I have changed all the friction plates, steel plates and springs by a mechanic, but when the bike was put on center stand with first gear, when I pulled the clutch lever all the way, even with the adjustment to the tightest, the rear wheel was spinning, much faster than my 7 year old worn out clutch, can you please tell me what is wrong? I want the wheel to stop spinning when the lever is pulled in, that is supposed to be the function of the clutch, is it?
Also the B plate went in 1st like the original, please advice what went wrong.
Motto if you an stop the wheel with your hand or foot when the clutch lever is pulled in then you don't need to worry.
@@motto666 The clutch is supposed to spin, the viscosity of the oil between the plates and pads leaves enough friction to spin the rear wheel. It might actually be bad if your rear wheel doesnt spin, in some cases this means the clutch isnt adjusted properly or is too worn and needs to be replaced. Youve described a healthy clutch and it sounds like youve done a good job 👍.
@@TheGamersRace The rear wheel is not supposed to spin when clutch is fully pulled in, which was exactly when I bought it 8 years back. I had changed to Barnett, but to find out it was for drag racing, the pattern of the friction pads are longer, and it grabbed like hell, it was worst than before the change, anyway lasted less than 5k km and broke.
U skipped the one part I needed
This bike still running?
Dave do you know of a video showing a head gasket replacement on the gen. 1 FZ1?
Jack Jones No I dont. But I did have to have that done. Stealership charged me $600.00 to get it done. You might want to check on r1s and fjrs to see if there is a video on it. They are almost the same.
I just did this process on my 02 fz1 and now instead of clutch slipping in the higher RPM it slips low RPM until it catches. Any ideas what could cause this?
I added the wrong oil one time..it slipped. But slipping at low speed is a new one on me. Please let me know what it is when you get it figured out.
.
@@donkndave7811 I soaked my plates in 15w40 instead of 20w40 and planned on doing a oil change next week. Must be the oil because I’m pretty certain I did everything else right
@@donkndave7811 so I redid the whole thing with new friction plates but now when I click it into gear it just immediately dies. Any ideas? I think I may need to replace the clutch plates as well as friction plates or I put them in the wrong order?
@@StraightothePointNews , check your switch at the kickstand. Dies or cuts off? You may have them in the wrong order. The steel plates should be ok. It's the friction plates that wear. I do not have the manual to tell you the order of the friction plates. Hope it works out.
@@donkndave7811 I can’t even begin to explain all the stress you have saved me by replying to this thread so quickly I really appreciate it man helps a lot if u can’t tell I’m a dirt bike guy who’s a newb to the street bikes. Didn’t even realize my bike won’t go into gear with the kickstand down till now😂
Should have drilled the basket.Makes the gearbox much smoother
67k miles for 1 set of clutch. Is that normal? Or it would be less
That is pretty normal. Of course it would depend on how hard one rides. I dont do wheelies but mostly sport-tour. But did go to the drag strip a few times.
Are you using a fish eye lens cuz forks look extra bent
No, it's a Sony action cam. Forks are good. Thanks for watching!
followed everything you said, got to the end and have zero tension from the handle . have moved both adjustments . whats your thoughts?
Did you resolve the issue? sorry I'm late in responding. you most likely needed to adjust the clutch cable out where it connects to the clutch shifter arm. Then adjust out on the upper clutch adjuster. Hope you got it fixed ok.
Dave
You probably have the wrong plate in first. the first plate has a bigger inside diameter than the rest (as stated in the video)
So did you leave the jutter spring out
Nope. :)
What seat do you have looks way better than stock
Corbin. I got it used off the yamahafz1oa.com site years ago. It was in the classifieds. :)
What frame sliders are those? And where can I buy them?
I believe they are T Rex sliders. They mount in the frame mount holes and came with longer bolts. I also wrapped the sliders with grip tape and use the sliders as highway pegs. Works well. Thanks!
Hi Dave, what brand and model did you replace with? I replaced with Barnett, it had so much drag and unable to put to neutral and less than 5k km, I think it is broken, just like the cable is broken, there is no pressure, now there is no way to clutch in when stop, engine will dies. I need to get another set close to oem specs, what do you recommend.
I went with stock. I hear Barnett is good, but stiff. A lot of drag races use Barnett because of the stiff springs.
@@donkndave7811 Barnett unfortunately it is not for street use.
Is the different thickness just you're clutch kit? Or all of them
As clutch plates wear they will lose thickness, which is why you have to adjust the clutch cable until you cant. The steel plates generally do not wear out and can be reused. Hope this helped.
@@donkndave7811 I was talking about the order that you where talking about
@@loucksm1rpg , There is an order( according to plate thickness) to follow to install the plates. I cant remember the order. Please search for that information. It might be on the yamahafz1oa.com forum.
why the helmet? ohh .... for the camera right!😀
LOL! Yep. And it was hotter than hell wearing it.
I wondered about the visor as well. Now I understand. Thanks for the. Video.
Asma