Just subscribed - RUclips needs someone covering these topics but with no frills. Your no nonsense approached crammed more info onto a 6 min videos than some tubers impart in 3 times the time. Like the style. Please don't change it!
Thanks man that's awesome to hear, If there is something I haven't done a video on that you would like to know about don't hesitate to ask. I'll keep em coming. Cheers Logan
Dude! You saved me! I'm far away from home and motorcycle mechanics just awful here, I watched your video and diagnosed the problem by myself! I hope they'll find another job...
3.26.24. ⚠️There are two tests for the Stator, one being a static test/DC/ohms. And a dynamic test, with the bike running, testing the Three Phase Stator between any two phases 1-2 2-3 3-1 and reading the AC voltage, my GL 1200 Goldwing new Stator tested out at around 70 VAC between any of the three phases at 3000 RPM. The two lower Voltage phases probably have internally shorted windings to each other. That’s causing the lower AC voltage output on the two of the three phases. The windings usually are not shorted to ground. Therefore, if you do a resistance check, it will show infinity to ground to each phase.
On the inside of the stator cover there's the black box, which I assume is a sensor. Can you explain what that does? I'm trying to see if I can upgrade an old 3 phase stator on my 87 fz600 that uses brushes, to a newer style like this
Not sure what black box you mean, I would check a service manual to see what it does, as it could be anything from a pick up to a set of diodes rectifying the ac voltage. As far as a stators go. I haven't seen one with brushes yet, that's pretty funky, like a starter motor.
Generally if a rotor is bad there would be signs of damage, like the magnets are missing or broken. There are some other potential issues you could have, a connection problem between terminals, a bad earth or a bad battery.
Did you ever come to a conclusion of what the problem was? I just replaced battery, Rec/Regulator, and stator and volts are very slowly dropping. I'm starting to think it has to be the stator plug wires or plug itself that goes to Rectifier
@@TrashRatRecycling I'm going to take the stator plug off the rectifier and re-solder and use new plug. That's the only not new part in all this. Also went to start up my bike yesterday and it was blowing smoke at first strange after 10 seconds it eased up but i had driven it and had it running like 45 min total the night before after installing everything
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VoXYzQ61tRM/mqdefault.jpg)
![HOW TO TEST A STATOR / WHAT IS A STATOR [step by step] GY6](/img/tr.png)
Just subscribed - RUclips needs someone covering these topics but with no frills. Your no nonsense approached crammed more info onto a 6 min videos than some tubers impart in 3 times the time. Like the style. Please don't change it!
Thanks man that's awesome to hear,
If there is something I haven't done a video on that you would like to know about don't hesitate to ask.
I'll keep em coming.
Cheers Logan
Dude! You saved me! I'm far away from home and motorcycle mechanics just awful here, I watched your video and diagnosed the problem by myself! I hope they'll find another job...
Thanks man that's awesome to hear.
3.26.24. ⚠️There are two tests for the Stator, one being a static test/DC/ohms. And a dynamic test, with the bike running, testing the Three Phase Stator between any two phases 1-2 2-3 3-1 and reading the AC voltage, my GL 1200 Goldwing new Stator tested out at around 70 VAC between any of the three phases at 3000 RPM. The two lower Voltage phases probably have internally shorted windings to each other. That’s causing the lower AC voltage output on the two of the three phases. The windings usually are not shorted to ground. Therefore, if you do a resistance check, it will show infinity to ground to each phase.
These are great mate. Appreciate it!
I know FA about motorcycle mechanicing and these videos help me know more than the current FA. So thanks.
Glad you like them, I'll keep em coming haaha
@@TheMotorcycleForge mean! Thanks.
This is clearly articulated and concise. Thank you... My bike isn't charging AND the headlights aren't working 😮
it amazes me how ISTPs are so identical to each other
Yoo, have you made a video a video on rewinding a stator?
Would be intresting to learn how to do it🤝
It's on my list of video's to make.
What about a 2 stroke bike?
A very helpful vid - thanks!
Very helpful mate 👍
This is pretty handy stuff to know..
Yeah and it's a fairly common issue aswell. Glad you liked it
On the inside of the stator cover there's the black box, which I assume is a sensor. Can you explain what that does? I'm trying to see if I can upgrade an old 3 phase stator on my 87 fz600 that uses brushes, to a newer style like this
Not sure what black box you mean, I would check a service manual to see what it does, as it could be anything from a pick up to a set of diodes rectifying the ac voltage.
As far as a stators go.
I haven't seen one with brushes yet, that's pretty funky, like a starter motor.
May the force be with you
Very well, explained!
Isn’t having good continuity the same as not going to earth?
Not quite as you could have a broken wire in the stator that isn't going to earth.
Definitely pays to do both tests to narrow down the exact issue.
If it’s earthing what that mean ?
If it's earthing to ground, it means it is broken and won't charge.
My new stator is getting really hot a few minutes running and not charging any ideas?? I did not replace regulator??
@patrickploshay714 The stator is the copper windings in the engine?
Do you mean the regulator is getting hot? The finned box attached to the frame?
How do you know your rotor is bad?i changed stator and regular n still getting low voltage no charge
Generally if a rotor is bad there would be signs of damage, like the magnets are missing or broken.
There are some other potential issues you could have, a connection problem between terminals, a bad earth or a bad battery.
@@TheMotorcycleForge new battery even tried bypassing the harness going straight to the battery from the regular still won't charge
In that case you should start checking wiring with the multi meter looking for short circuits and bad conditions
thanks my bike shows 12.8V at 5000 rpm. Something is not working correctly. Suzuki SV1000s 2006.
12.8v at the battery or stator?
Did you ever come to a conclusion of what the problem was? I just replaced battery, Rec/Regulator, and stator and volts are very slowly dropping. I'm starting to think it has to be the stator plug wires or plug itself that goes to Rectifier
@@fonz1anddone713 shouldve started at the plugs, the one from stator to rectifier burns very often
@@TrashRatRecycling I'm going to take the stator plug off the rectifier and re-solder and use new plug. That's the only not new part in all this. Also went to start up my bike yesterday and it was blowing smoke at first strange after 10 seconds it eased up but i had driven it and had it running like 45 min total the night before after installing everything
I will become your disciple now after watching the vid.
Very good my young apprentice
🤣🤣🤣@@TheMotorcycleForge
i have a small cc engine and the battery is not charging. does it matter if i use a regulator with higher cc?
As long as it has the same amount of poles from the stator and is wired in the same configuration I see no reason why it shouldn't work.
thanks
So nice