Gotta say once 0:03 more... thanks, you make my hobby fun again... Kawasaki dealer sucked the fun out of wanting to play with bikes... i am a 3 year rider just learning about bikes and stators ans regulators and test meters... bikes were never a part of my life and as a 65 yr old i want to have fun learning something new and your video brought it back to where it should be... a fun hobby... Dave Arizona 650 versy 2015
Hi Jack, great to see you. I purchased a kit off you for my K6 750 a few years ago, after never-ending dramas with other products. (unfortunately I hadn't seen your kits earlier!!!) For the next few years of ownership, that bike was flawless. Thank you so much for the kit, the voltage LED display unit, and the piece of mind riding I enjoyed from then on!
Thank you for the stator continuity test... 3 year rider, riding and fixing my 650 versy is my senior hobby... oh, first volt meter in 65yrs and learning how to use the thing... my continuity is buzzing on all 1 2 and 3 and 2/3...
There are a lot of us in the field who fully do not understand the basics of a float charging system such as in small engines, cars and motorcycles. And it gets complicated when the charging coils get labeled single or double or even three phase operation. Your video and your bench display of the alternator operation is right on target. Just remember that when everything is working, you have two 12 volt sources of power tied parallel or bridged together. One is your storage battery (DC) and the other is the engine turning a rotating magnetic field (AC) which is converted to DC. Two DC sources and 1 or more loads all connected together. Both power sources, and all loads are connected. AT some magical rpm the power from the charger will be equal to the power demand on the battery and the lights will get as close to the 12 volt load point as you will ever see. If your lights dimmed it is because the alternator is not turning fast enough to match the power demand for the lights. Idle it up a bit and observe the result. More RPMs generate a little more power and 12 volts load point is maintained. Our battery should never be discharged below about 30 percent or the life of the battery (lead acid) is shortened. Each time we run the batt down we shorten its life. The system is designed around that concern so that we don't waste horsepower just to run a charging system.
I've had a lot to do with advice and repairs on kawasaki charging systems. In particular ZX12R'S. You've said about wiring the phases direct ie- hard solder each phase to the regulator ,yes i agree as plug n play sockets often burn out if plug in connections are poor. As for testing the coils in the stator you need a good quality multi meter to read off 0.3 -- 0.5 ohms that most coil resistances are. The ultimate test is to read all 3 phase coils in turn for the output voltage with the motor running. On the ZX12R the AC voltage across each phase pair has to be around 85 volts AC to a max of 120 volts AC and equal volts across each phase pair at 4000 rpm. If any phase is down on volts chances are the stator is toast and will need replacing. Some guys test to chassis which wont reveal anything as the stator is fully insulated againt chassis. You test 1 -- 2 2 -- 3 3 -- 1 coil connections to take an AC volts output reading. A lot of charging failures are from poorly maintained plug connections within the system.
Very informative Jack. I am on my second Triumph Daytona 955i. It's already fitted with an FH020AA the previous owner bought from you 5 years ago but I'm wanting to upgrade to the series type. It's a street bike but rarely use lights as majority is day riding or track days. Hopefully be in touch soon to place an order
Hi, Jack. Great info and well explained. Let's go down vintage bike memory-lane with a '73 Norton Commando Production Racer, single-phase Lucas stator, stock charging system. What's the Ohm reading I should expect to see between the two alternator leads? Also, the first Commandos had a volt meter in the headlamp shell; this one is a later one with the Lucas "assimilator" controlling a charging "idiot light". I'm assuming SH847 installation will involved removal of old Lucas stack-of-plates rectifier and the Zener grounding diode and also with each alternator lead attached to one of the three input wires (third insulated off). What's the connection for signal to the assimilator and the emergency capacitor (I'm assuming just off the hot side of the battery with no direct involvement of the charging system, right?) Thanks
I have a 2005 Triumph Speed Triple which has burned a few stators.Especially the cheap after market units.I got into the habit of always leaving my heated grips turned on in the belief it would burn up some of the excess voltage and make life a little easier for the stator.Not too sure if it works that way.I have a Shindengen Mosfet RR on the bike.
Hi Jack, I keep burning up stators on my Buell XB12X, I purchased a FH020AA several years ago from you and it's still going fine. Do you recommend a upgrade to SH847 to save the stator?
Good explanations sir I really appreciate if u can explain also how current flow to spark plugs in an Harley Davidson and how current flows to the electric starter I will really appreciate sir much thanks
Roadstercycle Jack ? This Honda XR650L hybrid to electric motorcycle idea hit me. the idea is you install a big electric hub motor with rim and tire to front of Honda XR650L. add a nice size pannier behind seat for battery pack and controller. then connect a DC to AC inverter to the motorcycle battery with a surge protector between the battery charger and DC to AC inverter, with a switch between the battery charger and battery pack. when the motorcycle gas motor is running it will turn on DC to AC inverter to turn on the battery charger, to charge the battery pack while running on gas. My question to you is, can the Stator for this motorcycle handle the power when it comes to charging ? like 3000-6000 watts if not, how could we beef up the Stator so it can ?
Hello Sir. What regulator would you recomend for a Yamaha Virago XV535? Its been burning regulators and the satator is already new. Unfortunatelly keeps burning them.
Hello sir. I just came across this video and it really helped me understand the view of how the flow of charging system works. My current situation is that 06 Suzuki GSX-R 600 died on me at a stop light the other day. Now I see it could be the generator, regulator or battery. Got the battery tested and it came back "good". Still have to narrow down the other 2 components. Also, prior to the dying at the red light, I have been experiencing some power dimming when I shifted If that helps. If you have any recommendations I'd love to hear them. I know your busy. Thanks for your time sir.
I know this was released 2 years ago. Just wanna mention to Jack. You drew a stator that is 3 phase star connected. If you look on the schematic, all the motorcycle factories produce 3 phase alternators that are delta connected. That's the way all the manufacturers are able to generate the most ac current/ power /watts... Re
I bet you get a zillion questions about the 2% of the bike who do have a car like alternator system. My bike is russian Dnepr with such a car like alternator. These alternators are (to put in blunt) a piece of sheit - pardon my french. So I like to see if I can do something to get the charging ball rolling more reliably. I was looking at stators from other bikes and looking into ways of spinning the correct pieces to end w=up with a reliable charge. Since a bike hardly (if at all) charges at a stoplight I was thinking of fitting a modern stator and a magnet rotor onto the hind wheel axle of the dnepr bike. What do you think about such an idea? Maybe too low rpm to get anything useful or could it work??
I am from Torrance, Cal. Are you in LAWNDALE, Cal? Great tutorial. I bought my 1983 brand new Suzuki 1100 and still have it. But now my battery gets drain after I stop the bike. I had to push start my bike in first gear.I bought a new battery but that did not work after 2 days riding.So I am going to my mechanic
Charge your battery up and then unplug the regulator and see if it stops the drain. Also you can go to my website for my phone number and give me a call, I have a couple checks you can do for a draining battery if it's not the R/R.
Jack, I just installed a new stator for an 07 m109r my question is do I need to remove those plastic strips that are to a couple of the magnetic heads.
This is going to help me diagnose my issue. Engine won’t run, tried an Arashi regulator and it kept popping my main fuse. Started looking around, and the 3 wires to my stator have a little dark spot on all three near the connector. Pretty sure my stator is shot
Have a question. What did I damage on my bike when I wired a new battery backwards? Replaced the two blown fuses however my new battery will not charge on a Trickle charger while installed & connected to the bike. But when I remove the battery it will take a charge. Thank you!
Hi jack . Very interesting video. A question on my battery . Had to charge it up yesterday . Un pluged from charger , @ 12.4v . Fitted in to bike tried to start and in about 5sec id droped to 6.6v . Didnt start bike . Now its reading 12.4v again . Will battery be stuffed . Cheers , jamie in New Zealand.
Both the FH020AA and SH847 will work with 2 wire stators. I've done it numerous times on different bikes over the years. You just hook up 2 wires instead of three.
@@Roadstercycle i was considering rewiring a gsxr 1000 stator add some batteries and controller and make it like kers. Just a boost for some seconds 5-10 seconds and 5-10Kw Do you think the stator could be rewound to handle the 10kw??what do you think?
@@FirstLast-tx3yj I like the out of the box thinking. Charges with the engine running like regenerative braking and then gives you a shot of electrons like nitrous for a momentary boost. Will it work? I have no idea. But I like it.
@@Roadstercycle yh a neverending shot of nitrous. I looked up some E-skateboard hub motors making 3KW and some even more so I wondered why 10Kw wouldnt be possible. If the stator can take it then it has no reason not to work.
@@Roadstercycle mitsubishi and mercedes are using the same electric motor on the crank like the stator on motorcycles since 2018. The concept has been proven to work all is needed some batteries and a 10kw controller!
To add on my comments is there are two different stator coil 3 phase configurations. Your diagram shows a star connected stator where as the kawasaki stators are delta connected. Just a small point that there are two types but do the same job.
Hello , my name is johnny i just bought a 2000 suzuki intruder 1500 , im having charging issues and could use a little help, i have the manual and in it is a pic showing a charger connector lead running of the positive side of the battery with what appears to be a fuse link in it but here is my problem, the guy that had the bike before me tried to run a bunch of those light strips and i guess they started killing his battery so he cut and ripped off the connector ends and left everything else hanging from the bike , so naturally i got rid of what was left and i think i took the CHARGER CONNECTOR LEAD off as well thinking it went to the lights he had on the bike, i have no clue where that wire is supposed to run to because it doesnt show it in the wiring diagram at all , if there is anything you might know about this please let me know,
Hello Sir thank you for the explanation. I knda know some electronics. Im upgrading a 150 cc scooter with a 11 pole stator with a 6 wire rectifier from a 8 stator that got damaged when i dropped a washer by the vent hole at the cooling fan. My question is ,Does it matter the position of the yellow wires or do they need to be wired specifically to the stator / rectifier?
Hi, I'm not familiar with a 6 wire stator so I'm not sure. A 3 wire stator the wires are all AC and can be attached in any order, A 6 wire my need a specific way. You need a wiring diagram to sort that out.
@@Roadstercyclehello. Actually yes you are right. I meant 3 yellow wires coming out of the stator and one red/black to feed the cdi, one ground and the blue for trigger, hence 6 wires. I did found out the position of the 3 yellow wires coming out from the stator can go into the rectifier in any position because they are A/C. Is this right? Thanks for replying. Take care . Greetings form Chicago.
Gday Jack, Al here from Australia. My regulator is faulty on my 77 KZ1000A. I have a new RM10-100 that was destined for a Honda but no longer needed. Will it fit my KZ if I just use the 3 yellow stator wires and the black negative and red positive? The reg also has a set of black, white and green coming out of it. Can I just terminate those? Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.
That's a good question. I would just give it a try as I don't believe it will hurt anything if it does not work. It may have been for an excited rotor on the Honda to control the rotor magnetism. I think the R/R will still regulate the voltage without the rotor control.
Thanks for the quick reply Jack. Will give it a go and let you know the outcome. Please keep the informative clips coming as they are great. Cheers Al @@Roadstercycle
Hello I have a 2001 suzuki 1000 and it keep going dead. Ok first I changed the stator the rectifier battery and also I changed the wire harness because they was burnt out and ran them straight. So I ended up crossing the stator wires do that make a difference? Also my wires get hot the stator wires and the rectifier wires. When the bike is at cold start my battery seem like it's charging when I have a voltage meter on it. When I give it higher rpm my battery voltage goes up to like 13.80v but as the bike gets hot and running for a while my voltage goes down and if I give it higher rpm my volts don't move anymore. Please help me out on this I have tried everything from changing ground and hot wires, relays I'm stuck in the same position.
Hi, The stator wires can be hooked up in any order as they are ac voltage so there is no dedicated positive or negative. Check your bike for a draw when it is shut off to see if something is draining the battery. Do this by taking a battery cable off and hooking a test light in between. If it comes on then there is a draw. Go to my website and get my phone number and call me if you need help more.
@Roadstercycle hey thanks I checked to see if I had any draws it's not any. Question so when I first start my bike cold start it seen to charge but as it get hot the voltage goes down also when i ram it up instead of my voltage going up it goes down you have idea on that.
i Want to adapt a battery in my 1999 KLX 650 R , have lights , regulator etc , but you no...the light bright more when you use the accelerator , i want to stop this using one battery and be charging with the motorcycle in movement , the idea is have constant energy in lights and horn etc...sorry my english...do you think it is possible with this diagram ?
I just bought a FH020AA Mosfet regulator for my vfr 800 fi. The bike has stock lights.. But the regulator on it stopped working.. So it needed an upgrade.. I was informed that the FH020AA was indeed a Mosfet...but you say it's a shunting regulator.. I know you are more experienced in this regard. So you figure the SH847 to be a better option?
I have a 2014 Kawasaki Voyager VN 1700, dropped in a LifeP04 battery, great battery, I have a USB/voltmeter outlet, it reads 17 volts when running at speed. Question: Is this due to lead acid charge profile? Or is the regulator suspected to be bad? Is there a regulator for LifeP04 batts?
Can you put a regulator to a single phased stator with five wires? two red wires, one black wire, one white wire and one yellow wire on the regulator. any help is appreciated cheers
Sounds like your trying to install a battery system on a non battery bike that uses AC to run the lighting and ignition. I have not tried that but others have. Check your model bikes forums.
I have a Suzuki boulevard c90 someone cut the plug off from the bike to the stator I bought a stator with 3 white wires coming out of it and the bike have 3 black wires can I hook them up wrong? Cause I don't know what wire goes where thanks alot
@@Roadstercycle OK good would u know why I put in a new stator and a rectifier I checked the battery right after it said 1334 Fri last night I started it again it was 12 something then it went to 11something then died completely turn key nothing then I notice the the big plug on the rectifier completely melted any help would be great could a bad battery do all of that?
@@mackenzieharmon826 First of all motorcycles usually charge around 13.8 to 14.5 volts in most cases. Did you buy a good R/R or an ebay knock off or what? Hard to figure what could be wrong without some facts. Email me jack@roadstercycle.com
In looking into buying FH020AA from the site. Very interested if it will work on my bike keep it running for good this time. My stock 07 k7 gsxr750 doesn't have any electrical upgrades besides safety, Guards, side bar guards Real question leaving me lost is the stock lead acid battery. 2009 manuals say I need a slow pace charging battery charger (3v believe it was saying) Do you believe this to be true on my model bike?
I believe it meant 3 amps trickle charger for off bike or non running bike charging, not a bikes charging system. The FH020AA Mosfet charges about 14.3 volts with a good battery and stator. Amps will very with load.
Hey Jack I appreciate your help with this. Your videos are amazing 👍👍 I'll definitely share. One last question I had was on a recent video on the shunt style regulator used in today's modern suzuki's or other bikes such as the FH020AA, is the stock factory regulator from Suzuki themselves more equal in reliability THAN your product?
@@cesarzapata9839 The sh847 on my website is actually made for the Suzuki 1000 bike. I have no knowledge of the others on Suzuki's other than I replace a lot of them.
I just found your video. I have this problem with my Honda VFR. I have the excitation wire or signal wire as they call it at Honda, and my reg/rec puts out 16v or so. So I change the reg/rec, but it does the same thing with the brand new. Then I put a shunt between signal wire and positive wire and everything settled down to 14.5v. The problem is, I can’t shut down the engine anymore. I guess it bypasses the ignition. Do you have any solutions? Thx.
The reason your bike does not shut off now is because your are back feeding the ignition switch through the excitation wire. You could put a diode in the side of the excitation wire on the ignition side so it does not back feed or put an extra switch on that wire to shut it off when you are done riding. If you did not get that replacement R/R though Honda and you bought it off Ebay or Amaazon that is the bigger problem, not a lot of quality control on those R/Rs.
I think that is the problem here. I don’t think that is the excitation wire. Honda calls it signal wire because it gets attached the R/R through the + or red wire to tell the R/R to limit the voltage at 14.5v. At least that is what is shown on the electrical system diagram. The signal wire (black) connects to the + wire (red) of the R/R. And it should all make sens but looks like the reality is different . When I follow the signal wire on the diagram, it meets the red wire of the R/R and that is the end of it….. Too bad I can’t attach the electrical system diagram. @@Roadstercycle
You don't need to send me a wiring diagram as I've seen this setup for years on many many Honda's. I would send back your latest R/R purchase and purchase a quality R/R. You are fighting a battle that does not need to be fought.
I was thinking about the R/R being bad by I took it to a motorcycle shop and they said it is good. They said they don’t guarantee for how long, but it is good. Would I be able to put a mos-fet R/R on it? I will google to see what part number and see where I will find it. Thanks for the info. Cheers.@@Roadstercycle
I DESPERATELY NEED HELP QUICKLY. I have a crf50, Rick's stator, 90 watts, I have the Rick's shunt regulator? Ether way, my ignition system is seperate, the Rick's stator just adds one power wire. ( originally just the 2) wire comes out, and Ts off to 1 wire regulator and other goes to all my lights. PROBLEM IS! I have a chp inspection, found out I need a battery in my system, and is required to get charged by the system. . I have no idea what to buy and how to rewire it to have a battery. Please assist
Hi, You need to Google "How do I add a battery and charging to a CRF50 dirt bike" or just say "dirt bike" to get ideas. I really have not done that before.
@@Roadstercycle really is just a 1 wire stator for power i just bought a 4 wire rectifier to wire in a battery. I just don't know if I leave the shunt regulator thing in wiring or not. And I also don't know what to do with the 4 wires. 1 is negative. 1 is positive. And I believe 2 are ac in. But I only have the 1 wire. Can I hook both ac in to the 1 wire off stator.
@@letsgetit3310 I would leave the other R/R in and just run another stator wire into the new R/R and see if you get a charging voltage. Worth a shot. It may or may not work but if the stator puts out enough power it may work. If your headlight light bulb is 6 volts all bets are off. It may be 6 volts which means if you put in a 12 volt battery you need to replace bulbs.
@@Roadstercycle no. I wired it this week.. All led. But then I found out actual chp requirements. Which I did read lights need to be able to be on of engine is off for 15 minutes. And bike has to charge it. If I'm going to throw battery in, I'm just gonna do it right. I could use small battery pass inspection. But what if he leaves it on 15 minutes to check. I doubt that. But I want to pass 1st time. And my horn sucks so bad.. when you Rev it, horn just doesn't work after certain rpm. 1000 volt diode didn't work.. I screwed up, ground system out. So maybe horn got messed up. Doubtful. 7 dollar horn. Probably just sucks. But on battery least solve that issue.
I have 2008 hayabusa with Fueltech computers and is turbo charger the problem the I have is at battery showing 13.5 volt and my Fueltech monitor showing 12.9 volt I hold rpm to 5000 and test battery volt and don’t change stay at 12.9 ,13.1 volt how can I found a problem with my charging system . Thank you for you help My name is Ray
Hi Ray, go to my website and first do a stator test to see if your stator is up to speed. If your stator is good then it is probably the R/R. All my Hayabusa customers are running the SH847 series regulators now. You can contact me through my website if you need more direction on testing.
I have a 1975 Yamaha 400 that uses ac for some lights then a rectifier is used to charge the battery. I'm told that my bike is like all the others- it blows the 6v bulbs. The voltage output is 8v. Of course I'd like to regulate that. Can you help?
OK, I'm going to take a swing at this. On Amazon there is a AC to DC Buck converter which may fix your issue but you would have to go to a 12 volt bulb. It's cheap and may do it. No promises but that's what I would try.
If your coil is putting out enough AC voltage to burn up your bulbs this may work. Put an AC voltmeter on your headlight plug and start your bike and see what it's putting out. @@lawrencecarlson2425
My new stator outputs 80 volts. The manufacture says it should output 60 volts. Can a stator running hi voltage destroy a regulator. The part number is 32800-47H00. It comes from a 2008 dl650 Suzuki.
Actually some Ducati stators and others I've seen well over 100 volts. Never seen any voltage kill one of my R/Rs. Usually stator voltage climbs at about 16 volts per 1000 RPMs. 5000 RPMs @ 16 volts per 1000 = about 80 volts. I don't see an issue.
If your talking about adding speakers to an existing radio I don't think it will matter much. If you install a power amp to drive the speakers then of course it will.
So,.....stator to regulator but I also have a rectifier....how does the rectifier figure in to this equation? (you may have guessed I'm completely ignorant).......trying to minimally wire a bike,....lights, horn, blinks. starter and a charging system for the battery.
The rectifier is built into the regulator and it changes the AC, alternating current, like your house uses, then changes it to DC current, then the regulator regulates the DC output to charge and run your motorcycle.
Thanks for the reply. I actually have a separate rec and reg. So I ordered a combo unit after watching your vid. 1977 KZ750 Twin. Hopefully this will work. I’m walking through the Black Forest with a pen light…….
I didn’t see that link? JACK'S GARAGE SALE Frequently asked questions About Us HELP VIDEOS Shindengen FH020AA regulator/rectifier universal kit for almost all 2 and 3 wire stator motorcycles. 1970s Era excited rotor regulator build up for bikes with rare electromagnet rotors. LED Voltage Monitor FH012AA/FH020AA and SH847 mounting dimensions Stator Testing Example Easy Mosfet Hookup '32 Roadstercycle® Harley Powered '34 Roadstercycle® Vmax Powered Recent Projects Contact But it does look like I could just buy what I need……up to the reg/rec from you?
First check your stator and make sure done of the poles are going to ground. None of the 3 wires should have any continuity to ground. Also look at my website or on youtube for a regulator check out video. You can also email me. Jack@Roadstercycle.com
Hi Jay, OK. OK. I get the point. Even when I'm editing this stuff I say to myself, This guy says OK a lot. Bad habit I need to break. Thank you it reinforces my commitment to stop saying that.
Yes this what you can do if your stator plug has melted. Honda's are notorious for this happening. You can attach them in any order as they are AC current, the R/R changes it to DC. Quick easy fix.
Авто/Мото
Gotta say once 0:03 more... thanks, you make my hobby fun again... Kawasaki dealer sucked the fun out of wanting to play with bikes... i am a 3 year rider just learning about bikes and stators ans regulators and test meters... bikes were never a part of my life and as a 65 yr old i want to have fun learning something new and your video brought it back to where it should be... a fun hobby... Dave Arizona 650 versy 2015
Hi Jack, great to see you.
I purchased a kit off you for my K6 750 a few years ago, after never-ending dramas with other products.
(unfortunately I hadn't seen your kits earlier!!!)
For the next few years of ownership, that bike was flawless.
Thank you so much for the kit, the voltage LED display unit, and the piece of mind riding I enjoyed from then on!
Another excellent video. Clear understandable information with no dribble or sales pitch. Brilliant.
Thank you Peter. PS. just dropped off your kit in the mail.
Great content mate, thanks for taking the time to make this.
Great tutorial. I really didn’t understand the motorcycle charging system. Now I do.
Thank you. Glad I could help you out.
Thank you for clarifiying the electrical charging system foro my motorcycle. Now I understand the charging system much better.
Glad I could help.
Thank you for the stator continuity test... 3 year rider, riding and fixing my 650 versy is my senior hobby... oh, first volt meter in 65yrs and learning how to use the thing... my continuity is buzzing on all 1 2 and 3 and 2/3...
Sir THANK YOU for this no nonsense simple explanation👍👍👍
Thank you sir. For not complicating things. Great video understood it well.
This is awesome, thanks for the simplified explanation
thanks for the explanation! very comprehensive
Thank you. awesome explanation. You fixed my ATV.
There are a lot of us in the field who fully do not understand the basics of a float charging system such as in small engines, cars and motorcycles. And it gets complicated when the charging coils get labeled single or double or even three phase operation. Your video and your bench display of the alternator operation is right on target. Just remember that when everything is working, you have two 12 volt sources of power tied parallel or bridged together. One is your storage battery (DC) and the other is the engine turning a rotating magnetic field (AC) which is converted to DC. Two DC sources and 1 or more loads all connected together. Both power sources, and all loads are connected. AT some magical rpm the power from the charger will be equal to the power demand on the battery and the lights will get as close to the 12 volt load point as you will ever see. If your lights dimmed it is because the alternator is not turning fast enough to match the power demand for the lights. Idle it up a bit and observe the result. More RPMs generate a little more power and 12 volts load point is maintained. Our battery should never be discharged below about 30 percent or the life of the battery (lead acid) is shortened. Each time we run the batt down we shorten its life. The system is designed around that concern so that we don't waste horsepower just to run a charging system.
I've had a lot to do with advice and repairs on kawasaki charging systems. In particular ZX12R'S.
You've said about wiring the phases direct ie- hard solder each phase to the regulator ,yes i agree as plug n play sockets often burn out if plug in connections are poor.
As for testing the coils in the stator you need a good quality multi meter to read off 0.3 -- 0.5 ohms that most coil resistances are.
The ultimate test is to read all 3 phase coils in turn for the output voltage with the motor running. On the ZX12R the AC voltage across each phase pair has to be around 85 volts AC to a max of 120 volts AC and equal volts across each phase pair at 4000 rpm. If any phase is down on volts chances are the stator is toast and will need replacing. Some guys test to chassis which wont reveal anything as the stator is fully insulated againt chassis. You test 1 -- 2 2 -- 3 3 -- 1 coil connections to take an AC volts output reading. A lot of charging failures are from poorly maintained plug connections within the system.
Such good video thanks, I really appreciate it!
OMG I understand! Thank you for this mate.
Beautiful magic!
Thank you.
Very informative Jack. I am on my second Triumph Daytona 955i. It's already fitted with an FH020AA the previous owner bought from you 5 years ago but I'm wanting to upgrade to the series type. It's a street bike but rarely use lights as majority is day riding or track days. Hopefully be in touch soon to place an order
Excellent video. Thanks
Sweet, easy to understand, now I can actually understand what’s going on with my Daytona a bit better haha.
brilliant explanation 👍
thanks man that makes sense. i got a sh775 box for my 82 GS off ebay, been wondering how to hook it up exactly. I guess i was over thinking it
Hi, Jack. Great info and well explained. Let's go down vintage bike memory-lane with a '73 Norton Commando Production Racer, single-phase Lucas stator, stock charging system.
What's the Ohm reading I should expect to see between the two alternator leads? Also, the first Commandos had a volt meter in the headlamp shell; this one is a later one with the Lucas "assimilator" controlling a charging "idiot light". I'm assuming SH847 installation will involved removal of old Lucas stack-of-plates rectifier and the Zener grounding diode and also with each alternator lead attached to one of the three input wires (third insulated off).
What's the connection for signal to the assimilator and the emergency capacitor (I'm assuming just off the hot side of the battery with no direct involvement of the charging system, right?)
Thanks
Thankyou so much for your response much appreciated
Thank you for your explanation🔥👋
Great tutorial !! Is an old 1969 Yamaha 125 enduro single phase or three phase stator ? Manual says it has eight poles
I have a 2005 Triumph Speed Triple which has burned a few stators.Especially the cheap after market units.I got into the habit of always leaving my heated grips turned on in the belief it would burn up some of the excess voltage and make life a little easier for the stator.Not too sure if it works that way.I have a Shindengen Mosfet RR on the bike.
well explained, Thanks a lot
YOU ARE THE MAN! Thanks. MH
Good to hear from you Mark. If your up my way stop bye and check out the new Mustang build.
Thankyou. Well done. Will help me with BSA Rocket 3 with no charging.
I have diagnosis help videos on my website. Roadstercycle.com
Hi Jack, I keep burning up stators on my Buell XB12X, I purchased a FH020AA several years ago from you and it's still going fine. Do you recommend a upgrade to SH847 to save the stator?
Good explanations sir I really appreciate if u can explain also how current flow to spark plugs in an Harley Davidson and how current flows to the electric starter I will really appreciate sir much thanks
Thanks you for the answer.
Thank you, very much to help me fix my, yamaha ds7!
Herman, glad I could help.
Another question, I just purchased a LiFEPo4 battery, do you recommend a certain regulator for that type of battery?
Great video thxs
Roadstercycle Jack ? This Honda XR650L hybrid to electric motorcycle idea hit me. the idea is you install a big electric hub motor with rim and tire to front of Honda XR650L. add a nice size pannier behind seat for battery pack and controller. then connect a DC to AC inverter to the motorcycle battery with a surge protector between the battery charger and DC to AC inverter, with a switch between the battery charger and battery pack. when the motorcycle gas motor is running it will turn on DC to AC inverter to turn on the battery charger, to charge the battery pack while running on gas. My question to you is, can the Stator for this motorcycle handle the power when it comes to charging ? like 3000-6000 watts if not, how could we beef up the Stator so it can ?
So can stator have more than one coil and still be a single phase stator? 1980s yamaha 440 snowmobile.
Hello Sir. What regulator would you recomend for a Yamaha Virago XV535? Its been burning regulators and the satator is already new. Unfortunatelly keeps burning them.
What arent any lights going on on the battery tender ?
Thank you so much
I will look at your business, thank you... Dave 65 yrs...650 verys 2015 new rider and new hobby bike mechanic
Hello sir. I just came across this video and it really helped me understand the view of how the flow of charging system works. My current situation is that 06 Suzuki GSX-R 600 died on me at a stop light the other day. Now I see it could be the generator, regulator or battery. Got the battery tested and it came back "good". Still have to narrow down the other 2 components. Also, prior to the dying at the red light, I have been experiencing some power dimming when I shifted If that helps. If you have any recommendations I'd love to hear them. I know your busy. Thanks for your time sir.
Hi, Check my website out for help videos on checking a stock regulator and stator.
I know this was released 2 years ago. Just wanna mention to Jack. You drew a stator that is 3 phase star connected. If you look on the schematic, all the motorcycle factories produce 3 phase alternators that are delta connected. That's the way all the manufacturers are able to generate the most ac current/ power /watts... Re
You are correct, I was just discussing principles not design.
I bet you get a zillion questions about the 2% of the bike who do have a car like alternator system.
My bike is russian Dnepr with such a car like alternator. These alternators are (to put in blunt) a piece of sheit - pardon my french. So I like to see if I can do something to get the charging ball rolling more reliably. I was looking at stators from other bikes and looking into ways of spinning the correct pieces to end w=up with a reliable charge.
Since a bike hardly (if at all) charges at a stoplight I was thinking of fitting a modern stator and a magnet rotor onto the hind wheel axle of the dnepr bike.
What do you think about such an idea? Maybe too low rpm to get anything useful or could it work??
Thank you sir good explanation
Thank you!
Hi, i am Hennie from the Nederlands. I like the video but I have a question. Is a mosfet regulator also shorting the coils to due gegulating?
Yes the FH020AA Mosfet is a shunting regulator but with up to date electronics. The SH847 is a series regulator that runs the stator cooler.
thank you
I am from Torrance, Cal. Are you in LAWNDALE, Cal? Great tutorial. I bought my 1983 brand new Suzuki 1100 and still have it. But now my battery gets drain after I stop the bike. I had to push start my bike in first gear.I bought a new battery but that did not work after 2 days riding.So I am going to my mechanic
Charge your battery up and then unplug the regulator and see if it stops the drain. Also you can go to my website for my phone number and give me a call, I have a couple checks you can do for a draining battery if it's not the R/R.
Jack, I just installed a new stator for an 07 m109r my question is do I need to remove those plastic strips that are to a couple of the magnetic heads.
Hi, I really don't really know what your referring to. Contact me through my website and send some pictures so I can see what your talking about.
This is going to help me diagnose my issue. Engine won’t run, tried an Arashi regulator and it kept popping my main fuse. Started looking around, and the 3 wires to my stator have a little dark spot on all three near the connector. Pretty sure my stator is shot
could be cdi too
Have a question. What did I damage on my bike when I wired a new battery backwards? Replaced the two blown fuses however my new battery will not charge on a Trickle charger while installed & connected to the bike. But when I remove the battery it will take a charge. Thank you!
Hi, Email me at jack@roadstercycle.com with the make and model of your bike. Glad to help.
I have a thwaits dump truck 1989 no lights air cooled only wiring is to the ignition and battery does this apply there are 3 wire s from the stator
It should but a wiring schematic of the trucks wiring would answer the question. I'm not familiar with the Thwaits truck.
Hi jack . Very interesting video. A question on my battery . Had to charge it up yesterday . Un pluged from charger , @ 12.4v . Fitted in to bike tried to start and in about 5sec id droped to 6.6v . Didnt start bike . Now its reading 12.4v again . Will battery be stuffed . Cheers , jamie in New Zealand.
A wet cell battery fully charged should be about 12.8- 12.9 volts. Sounds like your battery is toast if it went down to 6.6 volts so quickly.
I want to find a good quality regulator but it seems that all of them are 3 wire for the stator but i only got 2 what's the best way to hook it up
Both the FH020AA and SH847 will work with 2 wire stators. I've done it numerous times on different bikes over the years. You just hook up 2 wires instead of three.
What makes the spark for the engine to fire ? On a vintinge 1969 Yamaha AT1 enduro does it go Magneto points to Regulator ?
I honestly don't know. Never played with any vintage Enduro's. I wish I knew so I could help you out. Sorry.
friends thanks for video..a question how much do you pay for the lg batteries in the mustang, thanks
Just over $500 a piece.
@@Roadstercycle i was considering rewiring a gsxr 1000 stator add some batteries and controller and make it like kers.
Just a boost for some seconds 5-10 seconds and 5-10Kw
Do you think the stator could be rewound to handle the 10kw??what do you think?
@@FirstLast-tx3yj I like the out of the box thinking. Charges with the engine running like regenerative braking and then gives you a shot of electrons like nitrous for a momentary boost. Will it work? I have no idea. But I like it.
@@Roadstercycle yh a neverending shot of nitrous. I looked up some E-skateboard hub motors making 3KW and some even more so I wondered why 10Kw wouldnt be possible.
If the stator can take it then it has no reason not to work.
@@Roadstercycle mitsubishi and mercedes are using the same electric motor on the crank like the stator on motorcycles since 2018.
The concept has been proven to work all is needed some batteries and a 10kw controller!
To add on my comments is there are two different stator coil 3 phase configurations. Your diagram shows a star connected stator where as the kawasaki stators are delta connected. Just a small point that there are two types but do the same job.
I only used one example for ease of explanation, as you said, they both do the same job. Why complicate things?
Hi, I like your video, I changed the regulator on my jet ski and the three yellow wires get hot too fast, what do you think about that?
Hi Selmon, What regulator did you change to and has it always been an issue?
Hello , my name is johnny i just bought a 2000 suzuki intruder 1500 , im having charging issues and could use a little help, i have the manual and in it is a pic showing a charger connector lead running of the positive side of the battery with what appears to be a fuse link in it but here is my problem, the guy that had the bike before me tried to run a bunch of those light strips and i guess they started killing his battery so he cut and ripped off the connector ends and left everything else hanging from the bike , so naturally i got rid of what was left and i think i took the CHARGER CONNECTOR LEAD off as well thinking it went to the lights he had on the bike, i have no clue where that wire is supposed to run to because it doesnt show it in the wiring diagram at all , if there is anything you might know about this please let me know,
Hi Email me, Jack@roadstercycle.com
Hello Sir thank you for the explanation. I knda know some electronics. Im upgrading a 150 cc scooter with a 11 pole stator with a 6 wire rectifier from a 8 stator that got damaged when i dropped a washer by the vent hole at the cooling fan. My question is ,Does it matter the position of the yellow wires or do they need to be wired specifically to the stator / rectifier?
Hi, I'm not familiar with a 6 wire stator so I'm not sure. A 3 wire stator the wires are all AC and can be attached in any order, A 6 wire my need a specific way. You need a wiring diagram to sort that out.
@@Roadstercyclehello. Actually yes you are right. I meant 3 yellow wires coming out of the stator and one red/black to feed the cdi, one ground and the blue for trigger, hence 6 wires. I did found out the position of the 3 yellow wires coming out from the stator can go into the rectifier in any position because they are A/C. Is this right? Thanks for replying. Take care . Greetings form Chicago.
Gday Jack, Al here from Australia. My regulator is faulty on my 77 KZ1000A. I have a new RM10-100 that was destined for a Honda but no longer needed. Will it fit my KZ if I just use the 3 yellow stator wires and the black negative and red positive? The reg also has a set of black, white and green coming out of it. Can I just terminate those? Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance.
That's a good question. I would just give it a try as I don't believe it will hurt anything if it does not work. It may have been for an excited rotor on the Honda to control the rotor magnetism. I think the R/R will still regulate the voltage without the rotor control.
Thanks for the quick reply Jack. Will give it a go and let you know the outcome. Please keep the informative clips coming as they are great. Cheers Al
@@Roadstercycle
Hello I have a 2001 suzuki 1000 and it keep going dead. Ok first I changed the stator the rectifier battery and also I changed the wire harness because they was burnt out and ran them straight. So I ended up crossing the stator wires do that make a difference? Also my wires get hot the stator wires and the rectifier wires. When the bike is at cold start my battery seem like it's charging when I have a voltage meter on it. When I give it higher rpm my battery voltage goes up to like 13.80v but as the bike gets hot and running for a while my voltage goes down and if I give it higher rpm my volts don't move anymore. Please help me out on this I have tried everything from changing ground and hot wires, relays I'm stuck in the same position.
Hi, The stator wires can be hooked up in any order as they are ac voltage so there is no dedicated positive or negative. Check your bike for a draw when it is shut off to see if something is draining the battery. Do this by taking a battery cable off and hooking a test light in between. If it comes on then there is a draw. Go to my website and get my phone number and call me if you need help more.
@Roadstercycle hey thanks I checked to see if I had any draws it's not any. Question so when I first start my bike cold start it seen to charge but as it get hot the voltage goes down also when i ram it up instead of my voltage going up it goes down you have idea on that.
About 99% of the time when the voltage decreases when increasing RPM I've found it ends up being the being a regulator failing.
i Want to adapt a battery in my 1999 KLX 650 R , have lights , regulator etc , but you no...the light bright more when you use the accelerator , i want to stop this using one battery and be charging with the motorcycle in movement , the idea is have constant energy in lights and horn etc...sorry my english...do you think it is possible with this diagram ?
Hi, Send me a wiring schematic of your bike to:
jack@roadstercycle.com
I just bought a FH020AA Mosfet regulator for my vfr 800 fi.
The bike has stock lights..
But the regulator on it stopped working..
So it needed an upgrade..
I was informed that the FH020AA was indeed a Mosfet...but you say it's a shunting regulator..
I know you are more experienced in this regard.
So you figure the SH847 to be a better option?
It seems all my VFR customers are running the sh847 now. It runs the stator cooler.
I have a 2014 Kawasaki Voyager VN 1700, dropped in a LifeP04 battery, great battery, I have a USB/voltmeter outlet, it reads 17 volts when running at speed. Question: Is this due to lead acid charge profile? Or is the regulator suspected to be bad? Is there a regulator for LifeP04 batts?
Hi, over charging is a failing or failed regulator. Regulators don't have a profile they just regulate voltage and watt output.
Hi sir, supposed I connect three phase side to electricity socket will the battery be charged ?
Can you put a regulator to a single phased stator with five wires? two red wires, one black wire, one white wire and one yellow wire on the regulator.
any help is appreciated cheers
Sounds like your trying to install a battery system on a non battery bike that uses AC to run the lighting and ignition. I have not tried that but others have. Check your model bikes forums.
@@Roadstercycle yes, that’s exactly what I’m trying to do to my PW80. Do you know of anyone that was successful in doing this?
my kawasaki atv doesn't have a battery and when its idles my lights are super dim theres 12v at the wires can i use a battery stop the dimming?
Usually those systems are AC voltage running lighting. You'd need a regulator/rectifier to use a battery.
Pleas moto honda f4 cbr600?
Hello sir,, if i connect the single phase stator side to normal electricity socket will the battery be charged ?
If you are talking about a home electrical socket don't do it as it will short out and hopefully blow a circuit breaker and you may get hurt badly.
Yes I was thinking that the same idea can be used to charge batteries at home using motorcycle regulator
I have a Suzuki boulevard c90 someone cut the plug off from the bike to the stator I bought a stator with 3 white wires coming out of it and the bike have 3 black wires can I hook them up wrong? Cause I don't know what wire goes where thanks alot
Stator wires are AC current so you can hook them up any way you want, there is no wrong way.
@@Roadstercycle OK good would u know why I put in a new stator and a rectifier I checked the battery right after it said 1334 Fri last night I started it again it was 12 something then it went to 11something then died completely turn key nothing then I notice the the big plug on the rectifier completely melted any help would be great could a bad battery do all of that?
@@mackenzieharmon826 First of all motorcycles usually charge around 13.8 to 14.5 volts in most cases. Did you buy a good R/R or an ebay knock off or what? Hard to figure what could be wrong without some facts. Email me jack@roadstercycle.com
In looking into buying FH020AA from the site.
Very interested if it will work on my bike keep it running for good this time. My stock 07 k7 gsxr750 doesn't have any electrical upgrades besides safety, Guards, side bar guards
Real question leaving me lost is the stock lead acid battery. 2009 manuals say I need a slow pace charging battery charger (3v believe it was saying) Do you believe this to be true on my model bike?
I believe it meant 3 amps trickle charger for off bike or non running bike charging, not a bikes charging system. The FH020AA Mosfet charges about 14.3 volts with a good battery and stator. Amps will very with load.
Hey Jack I appreciate your help with this. Your videos are amazing 👍👍 I'll definitely share. One last question I had was on a recent video on the shunt style regulator used in today's modern suzuki's or other bikes such as the FH020AA, is the stock factory regulator from Suzuki themselves more equal in reliability THAN your product?
@@cesarzapata9839 The sh847 on my website is actually made for the Suzuki 1000 bike. I have no knowledge of the others on Suzuki's other than I replace a lot of them.
@@Roadstercycle what is your web site, own a gsxr 1000 would like to get a sh847 since my is overcharging the battery and damage them ?
@@moralesrd Hi,. It is Roadstercycle.com.
I just found your video. I have this problem with my Honda VFR. I have the excitation wire or signal wire as they call it at Honda, and my reg/rec puts out 16v or so. So I change the reg/rec, but it does the same thing with the brand new. Then I put a shunt between signal wire and positive wire and everything settled down to 14.5v. The problem is, I can’t shut down the engine anymore. I guess it bypasses the ignition. Do you have any solutions? Thx.
The reason your bike does not shut off now is because your are back feeding the ignition switch through the excitation wire. You could put a diode in the side of the excitation wire on the ignition side so it does not back feed or put an extra switch on that wire to shut it off when you are done riding. If you did not get that replacement R/R though Honda and you bought it off Ebay or Amaazon that is the bigger problem, not a lot of quality control on those R/Rs.
I think that is the problem here. I don’t think that is the excitation wire. Honda calls it signal wire because it gets attached the R/R through the + or red wire to tell the R/R to limit the voltage at 14.5v. At least that is what is shown on the electrical system diagram. The signal wire (black) connects to the + wire (red) of the R/R. And it should all make sens but looks like the reality is different . When I follow the signal wire on the diagram, it meets the red wire of the R/R and that is the end of it….. Too bad I can’t attach the electrical system diagram. @@Roadstercycle
You don't need to send me a wiring diagram as I've seen this setup for years on many many Honda's. I would send back your latest R/R purchase and purchase a quality R/R. You are fighting a battle that does not need to be fought.
I was thinking about the R/R being bad by I took it to a motorcycle shop and they said it is good. They said they don’t guarantee for how long, but it is good. Would I be able to put a mos-fet R/R on it? I will google to see what part number and see where I will find it. Thanks for the info. Cheers.@@Roadstercycle
It would be so much easier if you just called or emailed me. jack@roadstercycle.com or go to my website and get my phone number.
I DESPERATELY NEED HELP QUICKLY. I have a crf50, Rick's stator, 90 watts, I have the Rick's shunt regulator? Ether way, my ignition system is seperate, the Rick's stator just adds one power wire. ( originally just the 2) wire comes out, and Ts off to 1 wire regulator and other goes to all my lights. PROBLEM IS! I have a chp inspection, found out I need a battery in my system, and is required to get charged by the system. . I have no idea what to buy and how to rewire it to have a battery. Please assist
Hi, You need to Google "How do I add a battery and charging to a CRF50 dirt bike" or just say "dirt bike" to get ideas. I really have not done that before.
@@Roadstercycle really is just a 1 wire stator for power i just bought a 4 wire rectifier to wire in a battery. I just don't know if I leave the shunt regulator thing in wiring or not. And I also don't know what to do with the 4 wires. 1 is negative. 1 is positive. And I believe 2 are ac in. But I only have the 1 wire. Can I hook both ac in to the 1 wire off stator.
@@letsgetit3310 I would leave the other R/R in and just run another stator wire into the new R/R and see if you get a charging voltage. Worth a shot. It may or may not work but if the stator puts out enough power it may work. If your headlight light bulb is 6 volts all bets are off. It may be 6 volts which means if you put in a 12 volt battery you need to replace bulbs.
@@Roadstercycle no. I wired it this week.. All led. But then I found out actual chp requirements. Which I did read lights need to be able to be on of engine is off for 15 minutes. And bike has to charge it. If I'm going to throw battery in, I'm just gonna do it right. I could use small battery pass inspection. But what if he leaves it on 15 minutes to check. I doubt that. But I want to pass 1st time. And my horn sucks so bad.. when you Rev it, horn just doesn't work after certain rpm. 1000 volt diode didn't work..
I screwed up, ground system out. So maybe horn got messed up. Doubtful. 7 dollar horn. Probably just sucks. But on battery least solve that issue.
Do you have any idea how much watt it produces by its all mechanism? I mean if i try it on to charge larger size of batteries and thier time
You can charge larger batteries it will just take more time. I don't understand the "by it's all mechanisms"
My Sh847 will control up to a 50 amp stator output.
@@Roadstercycle and may i use it with honda CD70
@@Jatoiroshan Send me a wiring diagram and I can tell you. jack@roadstercycle.com
I have 2008 hayabusa with Fueltech computers and is turbo charger the problem the I have is at battery showing 13.5 volt and my Fueltech monitor showing 12.9 volt I hold rpm to 5000 and test battery volt and don’t change stay at 12.9 ,13.1 volt how can I found a problem with my charging system . Thank you for you help
My name is Ray
Hi Ray, go to my website and first do a stator test to see if your stator is up to speed. If your stator is good then it is probably the R/R. All my Hayabusa customers are running the SH847 series regulators now. You can contact me through my website if you need more direction on testing.
Can I use this rectifier regulator to charge my 150amp battery.
I have had guys use them with boat stator and charge car batteries.
I have a 1975 Yamaha 400 that uses ac for some lights then a rectifier is used to charge the battery. I'm told that my bike is like all the others- it blows the 6v bulbs. The voltage output is 8v. Of course I'd like to regulate that. Can you help?
OK, I'm going to take a swing at this. On Amazon there is a AC to DC Buck converter which may fix your issue but you would have to go to a 12 volt bulb. It's cheap and may do it. No promises but that's what I would try.
@@Roadstercycle Thanks but 8v will not light a 12v bulb. I guess I could unwind the coils.
If your coil is putting out enough AC voltage to burn up your bulbs this may work. Put an AC voltmeter on your headlight plug and start your bike and see what it's putting out. @@lawrencecarlson2425
Thanks, the bike had 12v bulbs when purchased but would not light them up.
OK, Maybe a new stator or rotor. Hard to diagnose online. @@lawrencecarlson2425
My new stator outputs 80 volts. The manufacture says it should output 60 volts. Can a stator running hi voltage destroy a regulator. The part number is 32800-47H00. It comes from a 2008 dl650 Suzuki.
Actually some Ducati stators and others I've seen well over 100 volts. Never seen any voltage kill one of my R/Rs. Usually stator voltage climbs at about 16 volts per 1000 RPMs. 5000 RPMs @ 16 volts per 1000 = about 80 volts. I don't see an issue.
Does putting speakers on your bike affect your charging system ?
If your talking about adding speakers to an existing radio I don't think it will matter much. If you install a power amp to drive the speakers then of course it will.
Perfect so I can charge My battery on my yz now
Just watched this and wondered who the horn-howler in the shop was...
What do you mean by horn howler? When do you here that?
Where does a regulator rectifier set up come into play?
The regulator rectifier changes the AC voltage that comes out of the stator to DC voltage to charge the battery that runs the electronics.
@@Roadstercycle Thanks….I know now most are combined….was just asking to make sure there wasn’t a separate check for the rectifier
what about dirt bikes they normally dont have a wire going from the regulator to the battery? Do They?
A lot of times dirt bikes just use the AC coming from the stator.
@@Roadstercycle how’s that work charging a dc battery?
@@MrBoomtheroom I would need to see a wiring diagram to figure out what the OEM is doing.
@@Roadstercycle whats you email ill send u it🙂
@@MrBoomtheroom jack@roadstercycle.com
So,.....stator to regulator but I also have a rectifier....how does the rectifier figure in to this equation? (you may have guessed I'm completely ignorant).......trying to minimally wire a bike,....lights, horn, blinks. starter and a charging system for the battery.
The rectifier is built into the regulator and it changes the AC, alternating current, like your house uses, then changes it to DC current, then the regulator regulates the DC output to charge and run your motorcycle.
Thanks for the reply. I actually have a separate rec and reg. So I ordered a combo unit after watching your vid. 1977 KZ750 Twin. Hopefully this will work. I’m walking through the Black Forest with a pen light…….
@@tomvband the answer to that is on my website in the left index column. Early model charging systems.
I’ll check that out certainly. I also noticed I have 7 wires coming out of the stator area……
I didn’t see that link?
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But it does look like I could just buy what I need……up to the reg/rec from you?
where can I buy the regulators from
www.roadstercycle.com
@ Phil - Highly recommended, for help with purchase of good products, and knowledgeable after-sale service. (Just a customer on the East Coast, USA).
my moto battery don't charging while running and it keeps low more and more.
email me at jack@roadstercycle.com
Hi I have just replaced stator and rectifier on my motor bike but still same it's not charging the battery.It's a lifan 110cc can you help?
First check your stator and make sure done of the poles are going to ground. None of the 3 wires should have any continuity to ground. Also look at my website or on youtube for a regulator check out video. You can also email me. Jack@Roadstercycle.com
Who else turned this into a drinking game on the word OK?
Hi Jay, OK. OK. I get the point. Even when I'm editing this stuff I say to myself, This guy says OK a lot. Bad habit I need to break. Thank you it reinforces my commitment to stop saying that.
lmao @7:27, WTF
Yes this what you can do if your stator plug has melted. Honda's are notorious for this happening. You can attach them in any order as they are AC current, the R/R changes it to DC. Quick easy fix.
gg