How to Hardwire a Motorcycle Stator to Regulator Rectifier
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Multiple motorcycle makes and models experience problems with burnt or melted stator connectors and wires. Ducati, Harley-Davidson, Aprilia, Honda, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Triumph and others, all experience this issue. Oftentimes, those who've experienced this problem share a short, succinct piece of advice: 'Just hard-wire it!'
I have seen this advice on many forums, but when I searched for a video showing 'How to hardwire a motorcycle stator to a regulator-rectifier,' I could not find many useful videos. So this is my version of hardwiring your motorcycle stator!
My problem surfaced likely because of an oil wicking problem in my stator wires (I'm planning a video to cover this unusual circumstance, as well). However, in my opinion most instances of a burnt or melted stator connector and/or wires, is due to poor preventative maintenance. Dirt, oil, grime, salt, sand, moisture and oxidation all increase resistance in the connector, and this resistance equals heat--and a lot of it. If this connector is overlooked during cleaning time it will be just a matter of time before the heat starts to cook things up.
While hard-wiring eliminates the connector 'hot spot,' there are two drawbacks: 1) There's no way to test the stator and/or reg-rec unless you re-cut the wires; and 2) On my Ducati, the reg-rec has to be removed every time the alternator-side crankcase cover is removed. This isn't a huge deal: The battery has to be disconnected and the ECU has to be loosened and moved out of the way before the two bolts securing the regulator/rectifier can be accessed.
Finally, I used sealed crimp connectors with an extra layer of heat shrink and a full wrap of silicone tape for added protection. There are many other options that would work very well for this project; Solder (for those who know how to solder properly), non-insulated butt connectors and solder (with heat shrink), and a variety of other methods.
I hope you enjoy the video, and Good Luck with your repairs!
Associate Links to items used in this repair:
Power Phase Butt Connector 16-14 AWG (Sealed Crimp Connector) Part #58590 goo.gl/PJ2aJu
Power Phase Crimping & Wire Stripping Tool Part #0710609 goo.gl/PJ2aJu
You can purchase these items through eBay (some times you can find great deals there), or go through Fastenal (online or local store if one is available near you).
#track848 
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5 years later and your video is incredibly helpful. Thank you.
Haha--you're welcome!
thanks for the info man. my stator wires are getting real hot and i found your video. helps a lot. I think im going to hardwire it also.
Did your fuse blow out, if the connector burnt to the point where the wires touched each other the main fuse should blow out to save the stator and rectifier causing the bike not to start or crank or show instument panel lights, a dead bike😂.
I have the same problem with a Kawasaki Versys. It's astonishing how common this issue is.
It really is atonishing, Frank. Ducati, Aprilia, Honda, Harley Davidson, Kawasaki and more; I found examples from nearly all makes when I researched this problem.
I dont normally leave comments EVER - but I've been trying to fix my stator to rectifier issue for more than 7 months trying to solder and all sorts of other crap. thank you for simplifying this for all of us. Great vid.
Thanks for the comment, Josh! I hope you get it sorted soon!
Thanks for the vid - extremely helpful, was able to sort out my bike after 2 reg/recs and 2 batteries didn't seem to do the job, turned out the connector block was fried. Also great to have verified it doesn't matter which order the 3 wires connect from the stator to the reg/rec. Great work, cheers!
You're welcome, Jim...It's good to hear that you got it sorted!
Thanks guys, I was worried also about contacting the whires the wrong way.....
Hey I have a brown wire and don’t know what’re it connects any help?
This is the best quarantine video ever!! I finally have time to fix the bike haha. Thanks for making the video.
You're welcome RC Man!
I was just thinking you're same comment 🤙
@Matteo Lyle go fuck yourself
Im doing this same repair but using 4mm RC solder bullet connectors, banana type that comes with the male and female
Sounds like a good plan!
This is a problem I recently experienced with my 2002 triumph sprint. Its a good fix but I would stop short of hard wiring just in case you need to replace the stator at any point. This would mean you need to cut out the hard connection and if it's already on a short length of wire you may find there's nothing left to reconnect to. This can also apply to having to replace connectors but they tend to need less wire removing in the first place.
did your wire stator getting hot too mine do I chance three different stator but still hot it charging fine but wire get hot 2003 triumph speed triple thank you
this really helpfull! mine just got fried today, gonna try this fix asap, anyway do the cables can be paired randomly or there is specific pair? like polarity or grounds
Ryan, the yellow wires can be reconnected randomly, they do not need to be in any specific order. Good luck!
@BlowItOpen NewKnowledge Glad you found your answer here!
@@Track848 Thank you! This answer should be pinned at the top. Africa Twin is notorious for this kind of melt downs, just saw (and smelled) the magic smoke today. Although I marked my wires before cutting them, I had to remove a lot of the fried portion of the cable and out of pure stupidity I cut over the marks. Then I went ini mini miny moe with the 3 yellow cables and lost my sleep over the fear of doing worst damage than what I had fixed. Thankfully all is fine. BTW, I used three independent (not in a plug) insulated fastons just to keep the option of disconnecting them without having to cut the wires anew.
thank you very helpful I have same problem I might gonna try this on my stator wires
You're welcome Soloista... good luck!
Like this content much. Am in Kenya. My xt225 stator is just cooking I don't know what to do. Advice.
Does the ordering of the wires matter? Bought a shadow from a mate to do an engine swap and both the rectifier and the stator have male ends on the connection
Thankyou, Helpfull video
You're welcome, danny!
Can you but connect the wires with any of the three? Like is there an order for which each wire needs to be with the other wire?
There is no order for the yellow wires, you can interchange them...
Do the 3 wires not matter which goes to which from stator to regulator?
No it does not matter, the 3 yellow wires from the stator are interchangeable...
This is exactly what just happened to my 2006 GSXR...... Are you still to this day set up the way you did it in this video.. You still on your same stator and rectifier... I'm thinking about purchase a brand called Rick's or just doing exactly what you just did in this video..
I eventually had to change out my reg rec, and I also reinstalled a heavier duty plug for the reasons listed in the discription... good luck!
@@Track848 thanks for the reply... I'm going to give this a shot before I spend $350 on a new set... Mine was working great I just happened to notice the wires all burnt up.. Even with it burnt up everything was working fine!
Poor connectors, my Yamaha connectors looks 6 years old after 43 years.
Better quality back in those days, I suppose! What model of Yamaha?
@@Track848 DT50MX 1981.
Do you know if this works the same as a te 310r my plug melted all the wires together was t much left of the plug at all
How do I know which yellow goes to which yellow? I got a new stator for my DR750 and the wiring is white. So I am kinda lost here
The three yellow wires in this video are interchangeable and can go in any order...
@@Track848 thank you so much mate
First of all, really great video. Thanks for contributing to the community!
The connector in my CBR900RR apparently has just failed. Apparently, it had friend a long time back, and left the connectors exposed, which corroded over time until one of them seized yesterday and broke in two parts. Now I am planning to troubleshoot the whole thing, to assess whether the stator and/or the R/R are at fault.
As you suggest, I'd like to hardwire both, after reading many times that the source of this issue is bad connection + arcing. I would like, however, to be able to have a simple way to swap components in the future, in case they fail down the line.
For that, I thought: would it be a reasonable idea to (instead of hardwire them), just connect them with a strip terminal enclosed in a waterproof box? The 3-cable strip terminal + waterproof box can be had for really cheap in a hardware store, and screwing/unscrewing should be very simple.
I am really NOT experienced in anything related to electrical installations, so if you could give me your feedback, I'd really really appreciate it.
Cheers
The solution for the stator connectors and the stator itself is to replace the regulator with a series type of regulation.
Hey, I am writing to you because you are my Boss :D i have issues with pickup sensor - on dash it is pk.up34 error. I have working battery, stator and alternator. So i think the problem is in the sensor - today i cleaned it but bike does not start and the there is still sign check engine on the dash. Should i replace it or try check if some changing position will make fix? And is it necessary to delete error with computer or it will disappear as I make it right?
THIS IS VERY HELPFUL AND EASY TO UNDERSTAND !!! Thank you soooooooooooooo much !!!!
Robin, you are welcome!!!! Thanks for commenting!
Good idea till the the parts go bad
Yep--and the reason I ended up adding a new, heavier duty connection...
I'm kind of late on this but I just wanted to say a big THANK YOU! I am, right now, in the process of replacing my entire oem wire harness and as I was disconnecting everything, I came across the exact same fried connector that you have in this video. The crazy thing is, I just put this stator on, brand new, less than a month ago! My old connector was fried too. I immediately began to wonder "I know that these three yellow wires just go right into my reg/rect, I wonder if I could just hardwire them in, thereby eliminating this problem connector. As I Googled 'hardwiring stator to regulator' your video came up, reassuring me that I could, indeed, do just that! Ugh! What a GREAT feeling, when you know that you have a definite, workable, and even easy solution to what looks like a BIG problem! Thank you for your video! It's people like you who save people like me hundreds of $$$ in mechanics bills, by sharing your knowledge and showing us that we CAN do it ourselves!!!
You're welcome Kristi! Glad you found this video helpful!
Thanks a lot for this excellent, detailed video..it’s exactly what I need to fix my wiring issues 👍
You're welcome, Gary; I'm glad you found it useful!
Great thanks
Does it matter which wire goes where? Mine ripped out of connector
No, it doesn't matter on the stator side, the wires can all be interchanged...
@@Track848 awesome thanks for the reply brotha
Just solder the bugger.
Yep, that'll work, too...
Hi
Thanks for amazing video, i have one question. Does the order of pins matter? I mean, there is 3 wires from R/R and 3 wires from stator,. Lets cal them A, B and C. Does connection have to be A-A, B-B and C-C or could i connect them A-C example?
Antti, the three yellow wires in this video from the stator can connect in any order with the three yellow wires coming from the R/R. The wires on the other side of the R/R that go to the battery do go in a specific order so make sure those are kept the same. The yellow wires can be AB, CA and BC for example. Good luck!
Just answered my question, thanks.
@@ronaldstone1285 You're welcome, Ronald!
Stator connector burns when parallel type regulator is used. It is necessary to switch to a series type regulator that will reduce the current from the stator.
In the EU, a small Croatian manufacturer makes a high-quality replacement three-phase HVSP regulator/rectifier of combined series and parallel type to reduce the heating of the stator and regulator (14V-2FHVSP-30A-AX/BX-KS-LI) which is a possible alternative to the SH847 because it works on many engines on which SH847 is normally used as a replacement. The warranty is 4 to 5 years.
Great video as always! I’ve been having a starting issue on my 1098 and changed starter, battery etc. Upon trying to check the ohms in the stator i realized my wires were burnt exactly like yours! I was thinking about getting rid of that connector too and hard wiring it. Good to know! Thank you
Hello man Thank for the video.but i have some think to ask you.where can buy new cable for my moto.can you answear me plz
1100 honda shadow n i downloaded a diagram that wire not there ? N my battery almost blew up started smoking ..u think that why thanks
Good video. The same thing just happened to my 04 ninja 636. Now i would like to hardwire like the video just showed but how do i know which wires connect to each other?
Thanks E Blaze! The order of the three wires (yellow wires in my case), coming from the stator to the regulator-rectifier is irrelevant and you can hardwire the three in any combination you wish. The wires on the battery side of the reg rec (Red/white & green on my bike), have to be in a specific order, so if you're planning to work on that side as well, take notes, pictures or a video of these wires before you make any cuts. I hardwired the stator-to-reg/rec side only as my connector on the battery side was clean and serviceable. Good luck!
@@Track848 that's the same question I was going to ask but luckily someone else asked it. And that is very helpful because I have a ATV and I just replaced the stator and the wires are the same on both sides for the rectifier and on the stator.. now I don't have to worry about it messing up.. thanks.
@@MrSours69 You're welcome, Chase!
@@Track848 I bought an ATV and the stator wires were already cut and just left hanging. I've been searching everywhere trying to find out if the wires had a certain way to hook up. Glad I've finally found an answer. Thank you
@@charliesmth987 You're welcome Yumi! Good luck with your repair.
I have a 2013 Kimco my stater went out. Can I bypass that and hook it up to my regulator
does matter the wiring order? or you can connect any of the three?
Wiring order on the yellow wires doesn't matter... you can connect any of the three together!
I think soldered joints a better option, it gives a better connection. You can then reheat and break the joint if you have need to.
Excellent
Thank you, Mark!
My rectifier has a green wire running to the battery from one of green wires ..none of videos or my new part didnt have this it probky why it burned up
I prefer to use posi-lock connectors, just Incase I want to change my rectifier, I won’t have to keep cutting into the stock wiring of my motorcycle. All I have to do is strip the rectifier wires and I’m good to go!
Excellent! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Track848 sorry about that, I meant to say “ posi lock”, but my iPhone typed positive lol
It does not matter which phase wire goes to regulator. I have a 3phase on my 2001 fz1. Contector is getting hot.
Is any wire for any wirw
There is no specific order for the yellow wires. They can be reconnected in any order...
@@Track848 thank u
Good video. As someone that has been connected with electrical equipment my whole working life I can't help thinking while this is a good fix it also highlights the need for a more suitable connector by the manufacturers.
Well said, Tony!
Maybe I am being stupid but how do you know which wire goes to which wire?
Hi for Australia. 🌏
I've hade the same issue twice now in the last 5 years with My 1998 Yamaha R1.
What I have all so come across is the insolation lacker compound has warn off most part of the top windings pickups surface that runs close to the magnetics .
As there is a small amount of oil covering the stator I'm assuming the stator is shorting out due to the oil film all across the stator windings pickups.
Only two windings coils of the stator are still fully insulated over the pickups.
The two issues I have with the bike is 1/ That connection plug has burnt out again.
2/ At idle the battery will slowly drain but spazmaticly the bike will increase in RPS for a minute or so then the dash instruments will go out. Then shortly after that the bike will shut off.
The battery will drop instantly from 12 volts down to 10 volts.
@bernardmcnamara Hi Bernard... some of those symptoms sound like a bad regulator-rectifier. Have you checked that yet?
!!!! THANK YOU !!!! This was INCREDIBLY helpful! My connector was (accidentally) cut off the stator and this gives me hope that its fixable! Is there a name for the type of connector you used so I know what to order?
Hey Paula, sorry I missed your comment earlier. The connectors are Power Phase sealed crimp butt connectors. There's an associate link in the description... Good luck with your repair!
i recently just burned through the connector on my bike. the previous owner decided to pair up the wires so instead of having 3 it just had 2 wires spliced together with nothing more than electrical tape. but i think i'll use spade connectors or bullet connectors to make it easier to swap out when i need to.
Hi Paolo, that's a good idea! I ended up re-installing spade connectors, but used a heavier duty version than the OEMs. I didn't like the idea of removing the reg-rec every time I had to remove the alternator-side cover on this bike. If you end up using spade or bullet connectors just be sure to check and clean them once or twice a year and you should be fine. Thanks for the comment!
That's what I'm saying.You didn't even explain nothing about the 3 yellow wires besides cutting them and then heat.String them back together with which one's go to?What they're all three yellow. And I can't follow the connectors because mine didn't even have no connectors it was just wire
There is no specific order for the yellow wires--they are interchangeable.
The order of the yellow wire ?
There is no order--the yellow wires are interchangeable.
My 02 954RR has been off the road for a year and half until we finally found the stator/rectifier conn burnt up inside the conn couldnt see it until it was unplugged. Hard wired and finally got her running again. Almost parted her out over this 1 connection that had went bad. Smh.
Nemo
Glad you didn't part out... I love the 954RR!
Quick question can the wires be fit in any order?
@JoeBates-o2b Yes, the yellow wires can go in any order...
Soldering the connection will in theory tin the wires and prevent any future oil wicking issues, I wonder if you can purchase a connector repair ikit?
Thanks Mrdubomb... and yes, in fact, I ultimately changed back to a connector when I found an 'upgrade' repair kit from Rick's Motorsports Electrics. It's been installed for a few years with no issues.
Question does cables connect dont matter how ? Because i have ducati st4 2002 and same problem but i got lost wich one connects to others
Please help 😅
The yellow wires are interchangeable... there is no specific order.
Nicely done. Thanks.
Wow, interesting this happened to your bike as well. I have an 01' Kawi ZX-12R and I went through two stators & rectifiers because of excessive oil wicking into the connectors which basically started to smolder. These were both covered under warranty thank god. The third time I checked and caught it before the connectors started melting. I did what you did. Cut the connectors (stator/rectifier) off and instead of a crimp connector, I soldered the wires together. Then used a two part non-electrical epoxy around it and then a heat shrink wrap. The solder and epoxy makes sure there are no gaps for the oil to wick through. 16yrs later, all still good!
Hi Todd... thanks for the comment! When I originally researched this before my repair I found a number of owners with many makes and models of motorcycles that experienced the oil-wicking problem. Some people do not believe it! A while after I made this video I also took another approach since I typically remove my alternator-side cover a couple of times each season for routine and non-routine maintenance: I added some extra length to the wires coming from the stator and then, instead of routing the wires straight down to the reg/rec, I routed it 'up' and then down to the reg/rec. This supposedly lets gravity help remedy the situation. I reattached heavier/better connectors and have yet to see any leaks...
@@Track848 Thanks and good idea with the re-route. I do notice your rec was lower than the stator on the Duc. My rec & connector is located in the tail of the 12R. So it's about a foot or so higher than the stator. That still did not stop the oil from wicking up into it. I had oil dripping on the edge of my rear tire when it went the first two times. Not good. I'm sure the oil pressure in the engine pushes it up. Just keep an eye on it and hopefully all will be good. Cheers!
Does it make any difference the yellow wires like you can just connect with any yellow wire or they all different?
The three yellow wires are interchangeable...
Merci beaucoup pour cette vidéo très explicative. C'est exactement ce que je voulais savoir.
Vous etes les bienvenus, Othmane! Merci pour votre commentaire!!!
Does it matter which stator wires go to which wires on regulator?
@kevtward For the yellow wires in my case (from the stator to yhe reg-rec), no, it does not matter. The wires on the 'battery side' are specific...
I'm thinking about straight wiring my 05 Hayabusa but with my rectifier and stator the connector is a 5 prong connector with the negative and positive wires being apart of the connector and not separate like yours. Would the straight wiring be the same for all 5 of the wires in the connector?
Gene, I have never worked on a Hayabusa, but took a look at some general photos and videos; are the two extra wires from the alternator cover connected to the crank position sensor? I'm not sure where the sensor wires terminate, but I would not want to 'lock-in' the reg/rec with hardwires on both sides (i.e stator side hardwire along with battery side reg/rec hardwiring). If you do this, you will have to cut the wires everytime you pull the cover.
At the end of the repair in this video, I still had one connector on the battery side of the reg/rec. This allows me to disconnect it and remove the cover with stator and reg/rec as one unit on my bike.
Since I've never worked on a Hayabusa, I would feel more comfortable if a hayabusa guy or gal would chime in here. If not, perhaps you could check one of the busa forums for a good answer. I saw several threads covering this topic. Please come back and let us know!!!
@@Track848 Yes they run to the crank position sensor and are green and blue. They connect into the wiring harness at a 3 prong connector and 2 prong connector and then the connectors run to the 5 prong connector before the rectifier. Thanks for the info.
I know hardwiring is the most commonly accepted way to fix this but would a Deutsch connector or similar be acceptable? Just so it'd be easier to replace the rectifier or stator in the future
Hi Dakota, yes that's absolutely a good reason to use a connector instead of hard wiring. Since I routinely have my bike apart, I eventually re-established my connections using the 'Hot Shot Series' connectors from Rick's Motorsports Electrics. Those connectors are much better than stock and I've had no problems since installing.
DEI tape? Does that mean it's multi ethnic?
@utahenduro4808 Hahaha... I thought about that, too, after DEI became a 'thang', LOL. I wonder if it impacted their sales at all 🤔
I have a 08 Daytona 675 do the wires need to be in a certain order or just make all the connections? Wiring diagram doesn’t specify
Yellow wires from the stator can go in any order...
See that green wire mine had a after market wite running to neg
Much better video then MD omg that guy talks about unrelated issues lets just say that ?
Does it not matter which yellow wire goes to which? The reason i`m asking is because i ride a Honda VFR,notorious for fried R/R and stators. And that`s why i`ve ordered an aftermarket R/R. And i`m in no way shape or form a mechanic. But this is an upgrade i need to get the full enjoyment of the bike as i hate the feeling of wondering WHEN is it gonna conk out on me
No, it doesn't matter which yellow wire goes to which... they are completely inter-changeable. Good luck!
Awesome video thanks the previous owner did a spice I have no idea why but anyway it got corroded and burned up.yes I did take a picture so i thought, My question is i have 3 yellow wires.
Does it matter witch yellow goes witch goes where I know the yellow to yellow part. I feel so stupid
You can connect the three yellow wires in any order, Danny; good luck!
That was a problem on two of my Honda Shadows. Now as soon as I buy another one, it's the first thing I do is take that plug out and solder the wires right away. It saves the Stator from burning out also!
Excellent, thanks for commenting Painter D!
Painter D
Hi I have a 2000 Honda shadow spirit and the same thing happened /..I have burned connections...what wires do I join together to hardwired it?
@@samvalenzuela6043 the 3 yellow that go from the stator to the regulator. Same thing happened yo my 600 shadow but mine blows ignition fuses and won't turn on.
Solder .. solder .. ALLWAYS solder .
What a great video! My 96 vfr750 with 250k miles on it is in dire need of this. I've replaced all the charging components but never considered that it needed to be maintained. The wires from the stator side are smoking hot (literally). While the other side of the plug is cool. This gives me hope!
Yes, these wires can get hot!
Thank you. My stator AND rectifier both burned up. Bike been cutting off for a year. Been replacing stator/rectifier/battery constantly until i noticed a few days ago that the connectors were destroyed. Jokingly in my head i said I'll hardwire everything. Now that i see it's actually a thing I'm comfortable doing it. And thanks for the tape info. I ride a 2001 Suzuki gsxr 1000.
You're welcome Cow boy! I love those Gsxr 1000s--what a beast! Good luck and ride safe...
@@Track848 thank you. Same to you. Shiny side up.
Hey man, did this completely fix your issue? I just got an 04 gsxr 600 and my connectors are burnt and battery is smoking. Looking to hardwire like this but scared
I had to do this on my 85 goldwing and I must have a bigger issue cuz I just had a negative battery terminal melted off 😅
👍🏻👍🏻
Fixed my bike today according to your instructions. Big thanks.
You're welcome Sean!
Quick question what was the problem on your bike
@@abrahamsoto7632 Multiple issues: starter motor was broken (loose/smashed magnets and melted plastic when opened), melted connectors (rectifier/stator connection) and I replaced the battery and rectifier because I initially thought those components were the cause. Inexpensive Chinese starter motor seems good - at least worked every day since. Good luck with yours
Trying to figure out my charging problem. 14 awg is rated for 15amps. I think it should be 20amp rated if you have a 20amp fuse in your fuse box. 12awg is rated for 20amps.
I think you're right, Glenn, and I believe a lot of people agree that the charging system wiring on our motorcycles should be larger. In fact, for a future project that I have planned to upgrade and relocate my reg-rec on the Ducati, I already completely renewed the wiring from the stator with 12awg wire instead of 14awg. I will try to complete a video of that project, so stay tuned!
I have a 2007 triumph Daytona 675 my question is does it matter in what configuration the yellow wires go? Or can I just hard wire it
It doesn't matter at all Frank in which order the yellow wires go... go for it!
What happens if there are no markings on the wires to make sure ur putting them back together correctly?
The yellow wires are interchangeable.
Very helpful and easy solutions.
On my 2008 Ninja EX250 I did this repair a couple years ago. I've put 11000 miles on the bike (first repair at 8000 miles, now at 19000) but my repairs have already melted. I noticed that it started to melt after 3000 miles. I'm about to replace the bikes wiring harness and stator. I think it melted because 1. It sits right under my right leg fairing; pressed up against all that black plastic cooked it. 2. Water, rode and sat in the rain and snow a couple dozen times. Lesson learned: clean and lubricate the wiring connection between the stator and harness as often as the chain, i.e. once a week, every ride, and or when it is exposed to rain.
Hey Garrett, it sounds like you've got your problem figured out... I bought an extra stator and had it completely re-wired with heavier gauge wire (12 gauge wire vs the 14 gauge that it came with from the factory). When I eventually upgrade my reg-rec, I will use this newly-wired stator and I am also going to relocate the reg-rec to a higher/cooler location, probably over to the right side of my bike... Good luck with your project and thanks for commenting!
Just use round pull apart connectors under the heat shrink and then you just have to replace heat shrink and you can still test parts... Dont have to use the "tube" connectors
does matter what yellow wire goes with what yellow wire thanks you know
No it doesn't matter... they are interchangeable
Thanks for the video. My sv650 is a nightmare for the reg/rec it’s melted the last lot of conectors i put on so think i need to run new wires now
Go for it!
I didn’t label the cables before cutting them from the connector. Does it matter the order in which I connect them?
The yellow wires are interchangeable, it doesn't matter what order they're in...
2005 Suzuki boulevard c90 had this problem as well
Thanks for the comment, Dust Gold... apparently this has been common among a variety of makes and models.
La posicion..de los cables..amarillos..es cualquiera?....no importa?..
Hola Manuel, correcto, no importa en qué orden vayan los cables amarillos, cualquier combinación está bien.
Does it matter which yellow wire connects to which yellow wire. I have a ‘76 Honda CB550 and the yellow wires have snapped coming off the stator and have no idea which wire connected to which. I’d rather just rewire it and not have to buy a new stator...
No, it doesn't matter: The three yellow wires coming from the stator are interchangeable...
As With most other viewers, this video helped me a lot , great job explaining, clear good Video , Thank You!
Thanks, Dan, glad it helped!
i have a feeling this is an issue with spade connectors. bullet type connectors work better imo
I later upgraded this set-up and started using a higher quality connector; it seems to be working fine now.
A. Cuestion...and..the position.wire..yellow..
Anywere?.....
Hello Manuel, correct--it doesn't matter which order the yellow wires go--any combination is okay.
does it matter if you get the yellow wires mixed up?
they all do the same thing, right?
as long as you go yellow to yellow, your all good yeh?
Yes, it is okay if you mix the yellow wires, they do not go in a specific order...
My bike was hard wired and there is not indication what wire is what....im sure it matters can u please let me know if it matters or not
The order doesn't matter for the three yellow wires coming from the stator... they can go in any order.
So how do you know which yellow wires go to each other ? Or it doesn’t matter on the yellow wires ??
Charles, the yellow wires are interchangeable, it does not matter what order they are reconnected...
Hey!
Great Video, nice and clear. I have the same problem on my Vstrom 650, did the same repair and I still have the burning problem but only in one wire. 😒
Kind regards form Mexico.
Thank you, Gil... do you know if the one wire could possibly be 'wicking oil' from inside the crankcase? I had a stator that had the 'wicking' issue and sent it to Rick's Motorcycle Electrics to have the three wires completely renewed. Just something to consider...
@@Track848 No, wiring is clean. I have watched some videos and discover is a common problem in a lot of motorcycles. I haven't noticed the issue before.
hooking to the regulator to the stator how do you know what wire to what wire
The yellow wires are interchangeable...
When disconnecting the 3 yellow wires does it matter if I connect them back to the exact same yellow wire? I'm assuming as long as I'm going yellow to yellow, it doesn't matter which yellow it is. I have a connector that melted and I can't even get it to come apart. Thinking about cutting the wires and hardwiring them like you did. I don't know if I have to remember which yellow went into which yellow.
Hey there, Dave.... the three yellow wires can be connected in whatever order you wish--they do not have a specific order--you can mix them up and there will be no problem. Good luck!
Track848 thanks. That makes things a little easier.
I found this cables burnt in my bike do you also get an
ignition fuse blown???
Hey genzo, sorry about the delay, I'm just now seeing this... It's my understanding that random electrical issues can crop up when this happens, especially if your regulator-rectifier is also bad like mine was. You can see near the end of the video that this turned out to be my problem. The fan fuse was the only one that blew in my case, but after I replaced the reg-rec, everything has worked well and I keep a closer eye on the connector to ensure it doesn't get dirty or 'grimy'. Good luck!
Good vid. I had the same problem on my 1098. Connector was fried. I went with a MOSFET replacement and a pigtail that mates with the factory connector from the stator. Key is to route the wire up and then down, which keeps the oil seeping issue that you described at bay.
Thanks for the comment, J., I'm planning to upgrade and relocate my reg-rec in the future. And the wire re-route does seem to be a good way to keep the seeping issue away... After posting this video I actually did just that--after eliminating the hardwire and adding a better connector similar to the stock one, but heavier-duty. To this date, everything is working fine!
Does it matter what yellow wires are connected together is there a order to it
It doesn't matter what order the yellow wires are in, they are interchangeable...
i need help, i messed up and cut my wires befor i marked witch was witch
Adam. That's not a big deal... the three wires coming from the stator to the reg-rec can go in any order (the yellow wires in my video). You can splice them back together in any order...
Hi, great video...calm, sure, informative .. Did you ever do the oil wicking fix video? I can't see it in your video library. Thanks...very nice channel...sub'd.
Thank you for the compliment! In reference to the oil wicking video, I recorded footage of my fix but have not yet edited or published the video. And what a coincidence that you asked: I was just reviewing that footage yesterday! Must be a sign that I need to complete that video NOW! Thanks for viewing and stay tuned for the oil wicking video...
@@Track848 Fate timing indeed. The fairings are off, wondering if I should eliminate the connector like you did...
@@TiroxSnapJack You could, but let me reiterate one thing that I elude to in the description: If you plan to do occasional and/or routine maintenance to the engine behind or inside the alternator-side cover, it might be better to replace the connector (if yours melted or got burnt). After this video I ended up re-attaching a more heavy-duty connector and re-routed the wiring to eliminate the oil wicking issue... as a result of your comment yesterday I'm reviving that video project and will try to complete it soon.
@@Track848 "re-routed the wiring to eliminate the oil wicking issue." this is what I want to do plus better connector. the wicking is the core issue. hopefully I wont have to open up the alternator assembly. what a crazy thing this is "oil seeping through the wire" amazing
@@Track848 I think I have a solution...get this- use a heat gun to heat the wires closest to the case...then use a wide pliers to squeeze the wires shut/pinching the wire wrap and sealing out the oil. forcing it to stop flowing. What do you think?
does it matter which of the yellow wires goes to where?
No, it does not matter which yellow wire goes where--all three are interchangeable.