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Helpp my 50cc 2 stroke scooter on the start its going good like 2-3 seconds then its lose power and after that if you give whole throtle its not going fast and after 4-5 seconds its going crazy???

Shineray 175cc

Lifan 149cc

Hi bro, greate video! Im qlso own 2005 year dt175. I just want to ask, how engile oil level sensor work? Because the 3 cable in sensor but only one light is dashboard. By logic there should be two state if sensor has 3 cable.

Yoo, have you made a video a video on rewinding a stator? Would be intresting to learn how to do it🤝

Cool vide👌

Huge rate of improvement in your castings.

Sorry one more thing. This works on every engine of every kind of fuel injected or not. If it is injected you wanna bring the hose a couple of inches before the mass airflow sensor. If you don't want to deal with cooling just add a peacock valve on the fumes line makes it for a cool on demand system where you can inject the fumes if you are going up a hill or on a patch of soft sand and that will make running smoother too but it will just feel like a comparison between a fine tuned carby and a poorly turned one... Because 2 strokes don't have a MAS sensor this will increase performance and on a system with an electronic control of mixtures it will only improve consumption and make your piston last longer

What I mentioned before about the atomization once you inject the fumes that will "improve"/extend service intervals for your carby. Anything past this point intended to increase performance from the engine in my opinion is silly and not worth touching, if you need any more power after doing that it means you need to move on to a bigger bike, maybe a DT 400

Here is a question for everyone isnt it a good thing to round the edges all around the centre portion of the exhaust port? You know how the piston gets damaged right there on the exhaust port, is this part of what porting goal by reducing friction there too?

Damn, that purple hue of the crucible is beautiful 😮

Missile CG 250

hi, i have pwk 28mm carb with adjustable power jet. How do i tune power jet and carb with one. is it different from a carb without adjustable power jet or not. thanks. I have Yamaha dt125r

You have email

Cant wait to hear this thing raw 😅

Pozdrav sa balkana..kod nas je imala fabrika za proizvodnju dizel motora..i blokovi motora su se iznosili napolju i ostavljali na spoljasne vremenske uslove po nekoliko godina na leto i na zimu..inace moj savet ako zelis da probas da izradis klip za motor po principu kako ga prave kompanija SPEED OF AIR sa dimlets jer ima veliko poboljsanje pogotovo kod naturally asppyred

I found this fascinating, and I'll watch more of your videos. Just one thing: I started out not knowing what a 150cc 4T is. And I still don't know 🙂

Buy oversized used valves and mill/grind to the size required.

Great to watch what you are doing.

This is pretty interesting. Good luck with the project!

John Britten Jr. here!

Can you eplain the hot topping

Why are the valves so expensive?

Keep up the great work, Logan 😊

Hi Nice content ,an idea from experiance make some dummy valve seats in aluminium seat angles as follows intake 30/45/67( 1.2 mm 45deg )/35 /45 /75 (1.2mm 45 deg)throat id 0.88-0.9x vod exhaust 30/45 65 (1.4 mm 45 deg) throat id 0.86 x vod or try a 2mm rad from 45 into the throat seat material trojan from columbia materials 9% better thermal properties non toxic use 0.2 mm interferance with liquid nitrojen for the final instalation.

By a cast-iron guide from a car and modify it , any engine repairer should have plenty

Can you just buy a whole R6 used head and steal the valves and valve guides from it?

"Hot topping" is a new one on me. What did you pour there?

@8:00 you were literally playing with fire. Please put down a bed of sand when you pour. If any stray aluminium hits that concrete, you will enjoy a free trip to the ED. I have a half sheet of plywood with a 1x4 frame that holds a bag or two of play sand-makes all the difference for your safety!

great stuff! really looking forward to seeing it running! is it not worth using some cheap standard valves for the first test runs? i have cut a lot of cheap aliexpress valves to length and welded high carbon tips with good success many times

Awesome work

Sounds like a cool project. The guys over at thehomefoundry forum would enjoy it has well. Lots of casting info there. Back to catch up on the other videos.

You can get tap followers to make sure you're square on your hole as you tap. If you just drilled the holes on the mill it should be set up perfectly for when you tap

Cool

Looking good

Thinking it would be a good time to establish datums, top and bottom, for repeatability of xyz, through subsequent setups. I’m looking forward to the machine work yet to come. What are you looking to use for camshaft cores, or did you pattern it after the OEM? Are you going to run the cam journals directly on the cam bores or incorporate bearing shells? On my own effort, I’m aiming to increase valve lift to .4~.45, valve diameter, with a 88% throat, as that is the point where the the “choke point” switches from the valve curtain area, to the throat. My goal being to achieve / maintain maximum port energy, rather then losing it for going the typical route of larger valves. Looks good, so far, and thanks for sharing.

Great series Cant wait for each one. Can i ask which other channels you follow?

Bloody hell. Top shelf!

What a fun journey, we'll done!!

Hey man, flick Omar at xcite bikes an email, he's been able to help me get yam parts at a better price than local dealership before. Tell him about your channel and the series, he might be able to help you out. Tell him WA Daniel sent you

Nice! I have a cylinder head i drew up in solid works years ago that i have always intended to do this with. Going through your vids now.... im gonna do it! Keen to see the f1 head articles you mentioned incase i can improve on the design first. Any chance tou can share a link?

Have 2011 bmw f800r, how to tell if it still has the "original equipment " power reduction settings or not? Thanks

You need to apply the brakes then release, then spin the wheel. I have dragging rear brake which is only slight but enough to make the rotor very hot. just can't find what is wrong.

Nice work!

This is an inspiring channel I want to cast my own 2t crankcase, cylinders and heads, keep up the good work bro 🔥

I've heard the solution to some of your problems is to HEAT UP THE SAND CASTING First! Then there is not as much temperature shock between the 1,200 F Aluminum and the sand casting. i.o.w. A cold sand mold will shock cool the aluminum, causing problems.

When u have the 3d print ready put it in the investment and while it still didn’t cure put it in a vacuum chamber to suck the air out Try other designs that help the air escape easier and the machine it off

Hamachi rocket 50, i like seeing shitty chinese cheap stuff made fast

Keep up the great work bro, failure is only temporary but success is forever. You got this 🫶

Would it be worth simplifying the mold? Maybe casting the timing cover as a separate piece then weld it on. That way you could focus on one bit at a time and its not 'all or nothing'. Best of luck!