Lessons learned: Don't be quick to judge a bow on its appearance or price tag. Keep an open mind about what kind of archery you want to do or what kind of bow might suit you. Many people come in with the mindset of shooting only traditional because that's the only style they've seen, or getting the cheapest possible kit. Trying other bows might surprise you and change your mind.
Terrific vid! Thanks to you and Chris for taking us through his experience. My wife and I are beginners and just got our first bows - we are lucky to live quite near Lancaster Archery Supply in Pennsylvania, and we tried out a variety of bows that they set up for us. She ended up getting something very similar to the wood long bow Chris liked (maybe just a rebranded version?), while I went with a WNS Forged Elite. I would have been happy with the next level down in the WNS line but they were out of stock. Looking forward to using them after the holidays! Your videos have been super helpful as I've been learning this craft.
The other coaches and I always take along a large part of our own collections around 35lbs and under on the last night of our beginner's courses so people can try them out. Over the years before we started doing it we had too many people buy beginner's bows or things like longbows off the net that were too heavy and they did not enjoy themselves after that. It is amazing how many people that did not like using sights on the club bows suddenly like them when they get a chance to use a compound. Also we seem to get a lot of people that want to shoot an English/Welsh longbow until they realise it takes a lot of work to be good with one, which is when they find an AFB, an Asiatic, a traditional recurve or just barebow scratches the no sights itch in a similar way but is a little easier to get into. It also tends to show like with Chris that beginners serious about improving may need to revaluate how much they are willing to spend and where compromises can be made and where they should not. We tend to suggest if they are unsure what they want to shoot or where they want to go that they spend a reasonable amount of money on a recurve riser but cheaper limbs as they will probably change them within the year. With those as a base they can shoot traditional with wooden arrows, barebow with aluminium / carbon arrows or they can put on sights and stabilisers for recurve.
Option 1, adjust the tillerbolts (up and down equally) to drop in poundag. But be carefull to not lose them to far out. Option2, see if you can adjust the brace height, a lower brace height will give a slightly lower poundage but will also be less forgiving. Option 3, buy new limbs and trade the old ones. Struggling against high poundage will kill the pleasure. Investing in new limbs will at least assure a comfortable experience what will make the investment worth it in the long run
What a fortunate beginner, have such a possibility to try so many different bows in one go. Whit a good instructor! Everyone should have this luck! pax et bonum
Had the bow set up at a pro shop. It performed just fine ruclips.net/user/postUgkxQEKUoxLWwayEDZR0NKB-5limn4MBU-2L . And I would say this is a good starting now that I could pass down to my son when he is older.But the package was missing the release and a nock was missing from one arrow.Dealing with customer support was terrible. They suggested I buy a new release rather than correct their own quality control issue because it’s to expensive for the. to ship it out from China.Update: manufacturer got back to me and resolved the issue. I retract the above statement.
I started out with a 55 lb. Samick Sage and I couldn't be happier. I'm glad I chose the higher poundage. Yes, it was hard at first, and I would end up sore after about 20 shots, but using it day in and day out, constantly increasing my time with it quickly developed my strength. Now I know you say "work on proper form first", but that's the beauty of archery, it's highly personalized and I developed a form that works for me. I'm sure a coach would have a field day with me, but who cares? I can still hit the ten ring at 30-40 yards.
I'm concerned about My strength to pull the 60 pounds that just arrived. I'm not a "skinny" guy, but i'm gonna need to work the proper set of muscles and technique. Not a "draw ego", just were the last limbs on stock, and couldnt wait another month and 1/2
Very good video!! Coming from someone who will start learning to shoot in March, this video is what a beginner really needs to watch. To understand what someone "thinks" and "feels" when shooting different bows is crucial when it comes to understanding them.
@@B1SQ1T Because here in the Netherlands, it is not easy to find Archery clubs. The town I live in (Enschede) only has one. When I enrolled back in November, it originally said there were 3 spots in December, but when I tried to apply for it, they said it was full and March is the next available slot. It really sucks, but it gives me a LOT of time to watch @NUSensei videos.
This is a very good video, super helpfull If I was Chris I would not spend 700+ dollars on my first bow(s) knowing I would spend 1000$ 6 months later, you'll lose value on the first 2 bows when you resell to get the Bear. Doesnt look like the best financial idea. I would probably shoot the clubs bow for another month or 2 and go straight into the Bear
@@nekoklutzchanxd I would go something under $200, I dont know anything about archery, but from a photographer aspect, you buy a cheap used camera first, and figure out if you enjoy it or not. I'm buying one for my nephew so if he doesn't like archery I'm not wasting $400 on a bow
When i started in aus I went to Urban Archery in melb and they were excellent let me shoot a couple arrows on the cheapest to the expensive and now have still bot my hoyt gamemaster with in 45# and 66# limbs. Same happend with my daughter when buying hers to. Thank you guys for helping find my passion. 100% shoot before you look weight, length and recurve vs longbow. If a shop won't let u try find a more supportive shop. Love the content nu
"Tell us about your self.." "Uhhh.. normal guy.. uh.. oh, I'm a security gu-" *edit* -" so you're interested in archery". #wrecked. But for real great video, love the channel, been watching a lot and recently bought my first bow. Been shooting a lot this past week.
Similar to this bloke I bought my first bow when I was 16, it was a traditional bow 75lb, but now years later (I am 43) I am looking to get into archery as a hobby, so this has been informative. I live close to you and you are probably my local club, I will pop down some time next year and see what I like.
The Bosen Hor 25" is funny for me with these recurve limbs. I've a gunmetal coloured 25" Horn with longbow limbs. When I've appeared in the club few weeks ago eyes of most of the members are widened. :-)
I think more important than the Bow itself is choosing the right Draw weight to start. You can see how "bad" the whole draw cycle is shooting the heavier bows. lots of shaking, finger pinch, ... There's so much to learn when you start, you don´t want to fight your bow. f.E. i found a 35# Bow easy to draw but it got quite heavy after 50 Arrows. I then decided to go lighter, chose 24# limbs and it was much better. The lighter Bow gives you much more Time to focus on Technique. The only downside is, you step up the weight quite fast which can get expensive. A lot of Shops offer Limbs for rent. Our Shop doesn´t charge for changing Limbs, that´s quite lucky.
Nusensei I know it's been a long time since the video was posted but I just wanted to say that as a friend and instructor you did a wonderful job with helping and guiding him. I would not let my friends shoot with any of my dearest equipment.
I bought my first bow not so long ago in a cheaper price because no one in my club could/wanted to shoot such a large bow, it's a Bearpaw Field Star 28 pounds and 68 inches in length. My coach happened to have the same length of limbs which were 32 pounds so he traded in it with me after a few months that I got used to the 28 and I feel good with it :D
What a great twist on the intro to archery type video! Actually having a beginner share this thoughts was so helpful to me in the same beginner shoes! Thanks for the video!
He should have had a go with your "Black Hunter".... I picked up a 45# one for £75, I draw that to 53# and for the bang for the buck it is hard to beat! Makes for a great trad recurve bow which is EFEE compliant.
Hey I have that southwest spyder 45#, as my first bow! Really nice bow, had so much fun with it. But after 1 year got a hand injury after a shot. Took me 5 months to heal completely :( after that, I went back to it and still enjoyed the bow! But now, I consider buying a 30# bow. I feel I will be able to use it for longer shooting sessions and also, let my girlfriend try it. Still recommend the spyder, if you want a quick, fun workout, and a good hunting recurve bow!
I also shot a bear takedown, a $150, and $500 bow, one after the other. The bear takedown is worth it. But, I would wait calmly and buy, when it pops up on the used market. One thing I wish bear would do, is upgrade the riser so the limbs would be ILF compliant. It's the only aspect keeping me from purchasing.
For begginers buy a geologic initech 2. Costs 50 € and it's a very very good bow. Highly underrated but highly recommended. I assure you. You will have a great experience using Initech 2.
I'm new to archery doing it for just a couple of months now. I bought my first bow, a Samick Polaris when I saw your comparison to Sage and Polaris. I liked the handle. Then I googled and they say you should start w/ 30# not 40#. So, I bought w/ 36#'der just in the middle. And it still felt so heavy. My first mistake. Should have gone through a shop not online. I can probably draw a recurve bow from 28# to 30# at the moment. The next month after, my second bow was a compound bow, also do a lot of searching. I was looking for a target and hunting bow at the same time. So I decided that I would buy a Hoyt Powermax but my local store doesn't have my poundage and draw length and ended up buying the Hoyt Nitrux w/c has my draw length and poundage. And now I'm buying my 3rd bow my Christmas gift to myself for this archery adventure. the bow will arrive 27th of Dec this week. A Gillo G2 that i bought from ebay someone selling from Victoria. LOL!. Hopefully its a good bow for barebow or target. Whatever setup that I would decide later.
I made my first riser, and got some cheap limbs. It has problems, because it's my first attempt, but it's strong. My plan is to stick with it, and work up in draw weight to where I want to be, then buy or make something serious.
Excellent video, really good hearing and seeing first hand a beginners ideal all the way through to the surprising type of bow chosen! I used to shoot recurve many years ago at a club for a short time, but want now to get into traditional bow shooting and love the idea of a takedown longbow, however, after seeing this, my dreams may be shattered 😂. I do like Grizzly Jim’s Striker longbow, but would have to try one first before spending that sort of cash. Likewise, I live the look of Bodnik Mohawk Chief too, ahhhhh .
Manged to pick up my first bow, Southwest Archery Spyder ( Cartel Epic Hawk here in the UK ) for £70 quid new which is about $90. My problem is that the closest archery store to me is about 30 miles away so I more or less have to buy online. Couldn't really let it go at that price.
Hi NUSensei great video do the manufactures do trial days at the different local archery clubs ? or will the archery shops let us try the different bow in store ?
Manufacturers don't go out to archery clubs. At best, the big ones go to major archery events and trade shows. Some local distributors might be more active in advertising their items, but don't expect anyone to come out. Best place to try new bows is from archery shops - they're usually more than willing to let you try bows, since they're making the sale. Of course, shops might not be able to give you the time and service you need depending on how busy they are, or they might lack expertise in a given area of archery.
I'm kicking myself for not pulling the trigger on the Horn longbow or recurve when I had the chance. Can't seem to find them anywhere trustworthy. I have a longer draw length, about 29", and so many bows seem designed for shorter arms. Been itching to get back to archery with something I can grow with, #25 to start. And I like the adjustability of the ILF system, versus just takedown. I'll just bide my time I guess, and hope.
Hi guys! I’m really impressed with your channel. Here is the dilemma that I need help with……I’ve owned three bows in my life. A beginner youth bow, a 1970’s recurve, and a Browning compound bow. Now, in my old age, I’m wanting to get back into archery. I’m 68 years old, and have two rotator cuff tears. My right shoulder has a > 50% tear , and my left shoulder has a
@@forreststump11 Thanks Mr. ForrestStump11! Born in ‘54 as a farm boy in N. Central Michigan, Fred Bear was all the rage when I was young, and I yearned to have a Fred Bear Bow! Back when our family would vacation in the U.P. of Michigan, in 1964, my dad stopped so that I could visit the Fred Bear museum on I-75. I felt that the sun rose and set on Fred Bear (and Bart Star, of course)! My dad had all the shooting he’d ever wanted to see during WWll, and he was never a sportsman, so I know he did it just for me! The museum was a magical place for my generation! Nowadays, when shooting rifles at the gun range, I’m happy to shoot 1/10th the ammo that I’d shoot when I was young, With regard to archery, I believe I could draw a 40-45 lb bow for a half hour or so! Heck, that’s why they make Diclofenac pain gel (that stuff is great for shoulder pain)! I never fully jumped on the compound bow bandwagon. The Browning compound I owned, to me, was temperamental and eventually warped. For sure it was my fault, but I was never schooled in the care and feeding of this bow design. I gave it away to a young guy years ago. Anyway, thanks a bunch for your great advice! I believe I’ll buy a Bear just for nostalgic reasons, probably a 40-45 pounder!
@@forreststump11 👍My sister and brother in law, met #66 at the MSU Rose Bowl game in 1988! I have a picture of him with them at some bar in town after the game. They all looked very happy!
How I bought my bow: Damn, this one looks dope. Ah, good reviews........as long as I look at the positive reviews only......... I'll buy it when I outgrow my current ris- oh Black Friday. Bought.
unfortunately we live in different countries, cuz a friend of mine took me bow shooting a couple of days ago for my very first time and i loved it, it would be awesome to shoot a video like this wit you. And now im looking into buying one, but all the choices are overwhelming and i really dont want to buy "by the looks"....just like Chris i really enjoy the "classic looks"....so im leaning towards a "single piece" recurve instead of a take down...is that a good idea?
luv the stache.... :>)... im new too and i picky as hell ! 200 videos /mad about learn all i can.... i picked the purple bow before the video started! The thick allum..riser and 25 inch.. sturdy /strong/accurate....but fav thing is the quality of limb pockets/ability to change limbs for different poundages (draw weight).. problem is= i find the bow i want and they not come in LH-lefty ...Help .. wood risers seem to be easy to crack .. dry out.. im want tuff.. and can double as fish rig!
Hi NU :) would you recommend the phantom bow (take down, you’ve done a video on it) as a first bow? I really really love the feel of it from what I’ve seen, and I’ve been debating buying it for a long time now.
With all the chatter I'm not hearing any really substantial reason **why** any bow is better than another, for example why the $1000 recurve is any better than the OMP. Is he any more accurate with the $1000 bow than the OMP?
Accuracy is a function of the archer, not the bow. That said, the cost difference will greatly affect not just the consistency of the shot (more expensive bows will experience less variation in shot due to materials and structure), but will often "feel" better in their weight, balance, ergonomics, vibration and feedback. The OMP, for example, is fine to start with for short distance beginners, but it will struggle immense for longer-distance competitive shooting because it wasn't designed to be pushed to that level.
I have a bow I would like you to review- “Wind Warrior by White Wolf Archery.55 lb A beautiful long bow with Mongolian like curves. How can we set this up? I injured my shoulder and the poundage is a bit much right now. I planned to hunt whitetails with it.
oh a lot of people would love to see Nu doing a review of a a White Wolf bow, they make such beautiful bows, i hope you and him can work something out, i personally just can't afford a White Wolf atm, have been looking at their penobscot the Wind Warrior.
It is a beautiful bow, though I find it odd that they compare it to a Mongolian style bow of all things. Limbs that curve smoothly to the tip are definitely not a feature of Mongol bows.
I liked that one too,but I couldn't quite make out what he said it was called,can anyone help me please?? I've rewound it loads of times but can't quite make out what he says
Interesting enough. However you need to do a video 'So where do I go from here'. With a little more than 2 years experience in archery I can be hardly be considered a beginner. I know I love it, and I want to continue archery. In fact I consider it the best thing I've ever done in my life. I believe I've proved myself as being a competent archer and a worthy opponent at the range, mostly traditional only 3D shoots. Far from great, I want to continue to improve. But where do I go from here? My Samick Sage recurve has now become somewhat boring. I bought a longbow just to experience what it would be like. I got a Bodnick Slickstick. I love that bow but wish I'd have purchased one with a heavier draw weight. But something is still missing...…… Again, where do I go from here?
Hey @Nusensei I am not an archer yet, but I have been researching about it, your videos are true jewels. I am thinking on ordering my first bow though there is one problem. I am mostly left handed but still use the right hand for certain things... My question is, which kind of bow, Left or right handed should i get? Is there a way to know which hand I will be shooting if I am ordering trough the internet? Thanks for reading.
I'm assuming you found out, but usually it is based off of eye dominance. Put your arms out and make a triangle between your thumbs and index fingers. Look at an object through the triangle with both eyes open. Close one eye without changing your point of view, and see if the open one is focused on the object. The one in focus is your dominant eye.
Just started taking classes and am loving archery and want a bow. Don’t want to spend hundreds but don’t want to get a lower end beginner and then wish I had spent more so I didn’t feel need to upgrade so soon. Would like to see comparisons of bows from different companies like a Black Hunter, Tiger Pro, ect
I'm in the same boat. I don't want to buy some £70 starter bow that I'm going to tire of quickly. But I don't want to be spending £1200 until I know archery's for me.
@@agnostic47 i can certainly understand why firearms are popular when a good bow costs more than most rifles. The prohibitive cost of archery is what is stopping me.
I've shot compound bows for years but am now thinking about buying a takedown recurve of some sort. Do you have any suggestions on a good quality recurve that will not break the bank in 50lb draw.i will be using for hunting and target.
If you're willing to think outside of the box you can build a Carsage. It consists of a Cartel triple 62 riser and Samick Sage limbs. I built mine through Lancaster Archery. Came in at around $120, two years ago. I'm pulling 45# and it shoots like a dream!
Very cool to see a beginners reaction to these bows. Being a newbie too, I have been asking myself these same questions while looking around for a second bow. My first bow is a bit too heavy for me, and will have to wait for me to get stronger. I am waiting for the recurve version of the Bosenbows Horn 17" 25 lbs , that I have ordered. Can I also use longbow limbs on that one? In other words, is the riser the same in the recurve and the longbow?
As long as the longbow limbs you are looking at are ILF you can use them on the horn riser, be careful they make bolt down limbs as well for the cheaper riser. You will also need a different string as there will likely be difference in length. You will need to check how the draw weight is rated on the limbs so you chose the right ones, I think they are rated on a 17" riser but if they are rated on a 25" riser they will gain 0.75 - 1lb per inch shorter than 25" the riser is so they will be around 6-8lbs heavier on the 17" riser, so you may have to pick a lighter limb than you think. I have the 17" horn and the 19" reaper from Bosen and while on the lower price point end of risers they feel on par with some of the more expensive kit I have had over the years. Their cheaper foam core limbs I got with the reaper actually feel nice so I am thinking of picking up the longbow limbs myself. I really want the 25" horn or the stronghold but I really don't have need for another recurve riser at the moment.
@@PurpleDracos The Bosen bows limbs I'm looking at are rated for 17" riser. My only concern is that the 17" Horn Longbow riser and the 17" Horn Recurve riser (altough they look exactly the same to me) are priced differently. I thought that while both being ILF, they might be different in some way, to accomodate the different style of limbs. I just recently learned about ILF system, so I'm probably just overthinking this. I'll also am getting the foam core limbs with my bow, so I'm glad you find them to be nice!
@@SipTea I think the difference in price is only due to who is selling them, whether you are just getting the riser with no limbs or which limbs or quality of limbs you get with the bow. I seem to remember the foam core limbs being about £50 more than the wood core and the longbow limbs being a little cheaper than the recurve. They do do a cheaper 17" riser than the horn they put in a longbow kit as well. In the long run most ILF limbs should fit any ILF riser do watch out for fat dovetails and bolt groves though as not all companies make things exactly the same size. Also remember that the length and geometry of the riser can affect the draw weight, my Win & Win nano max and the other Win & Win geometry bows like SF I have tried weigh a pound or two heavy compared to what the limbs say for a 25" riser.
@@PurpleDracos Ok, I'll definately make sure to get correct lenght of string, and make sure to check the lenght of the limbs/draw weight. I also need to consider my short draw lenght. So much to think of and to learn :) Thanks!
@@SipTea The budget ILF longbow limbs form Bosen Archery also come in two lengths, medium=60" bow, and large=62" bow on a 17" riser. If you buy the same length as your recurve limbs the string you've got should be fine. Depending on where you're buying (Ebay, Aliepress etc) you should be able to find maple and foam core options too.
Nu, do you think a draw weight of 35lb is reasonable for a beginner......average size slim build adult? Like your Stingray, or is 30lb a better option? I definitely think 40lb would be too high, but maybe 35lb is ok.
Hi i need some advice, im looking to go into learning mongolian type archery. Where i load on the opposite side and hold/lock the arrow with my thumb. Now my question is, are there any modern recurve bows that suit this type of mongolian archery. Or should i just get a left handed bow since im right handed so that it forces me to load on the opposite side, as opposed to loading on the side of the arm holding the bow if i used a regular right handed bow. I hope you understand my question in that all im looking for is a modern recurve bow suitable for mongolian style archery where i have to load on the opposite side even though im a right hander.
Why would you buy a bow that isn't designed for Mongolian shooting, when you can buy a Mongolian-style horse bow? You could get a left-handed bow, but the grip is the wrong shape and you'd have to modify it to be comfortable. You might as well buy a horse bow.
10:41 Ok most people are not thinking $500 is "affordable" also why did you not tell him to not hold the bow fully drawn for so long is not good, one motion more natural less thinking!
And now I still wonder between Bosen Horn 17" or 25", I can only order online from china :( my concerned is price and their different in handle. I care not about speed. Seem I like 17" for quite smooth, but 25" seem better mechanical? I dislike using wood riser, My draw length is 28in-34in(80-95cm left-hand to my jaw) (180cm finger to finger),my height is 178cm/70in/5'10, draw weight 30 is comfortable for my 4 hours practice while in control, 35 and up a bit overwhelming when I do more than 3.5hours practice, shaking and unable to hold arrow I dont know how long will I be in archery but the bow will be used during 3-4 coming years, archery equipment is not available in my country but i can order from china
Don't skimp on cost get your best ideal bow right off the bat assuming you know what you're looking for you'll end up paying a lot less in the long run. If you're really not sure start out with the cheapest piece of shit you can and just see how you like it or better yet borrow a friend's and go shooting with him if you know you're going to stick with it don't skimp but make sure you know what you want. I suppose those two things might be contradictory being new and knowing what you want but considering who you were with at the moment shouldn't have too much of an issue
That's how RUclips works, it matches the ads to the videos. It also tracks your watch history and what you Google and selects ads for you based on what you're interested in. Amazon looks at your search history too to recommend products. Google, Facebook, Amazon, Instagram, etc. they all share user activity data for targeted advertising. Why else do you think they're free? because targeted advertising is so profitable and efficient.
Drawing the bow on the way up isn't going to help an inexperienced archer achieve repeatable good form, or establish a good anchor and a consistent draw. It's great if you know what you're doing but it's just too much of a complex movement when someone hasn't developed the necessary strength and technique to hit their shot components with any consistency. Might be worth while setting the bow hand first so all that needs doing is draw, set and release. Ps not criticising just offering a few suggestions in the hope that he might avoid a few common pitfalls
Lessons learned: Don't be quick to judge a bow on its appearance or price tag. Keep an open mind about what kind of archery you want to do or what kind of bow might suit you. Many people come in with the mindset of shooting only traditional because that's the only style they've seen, or getting the cheapest possible kit. Trying other bows might surprise you and change your mind.
Terrific vid! Thanks to you and Chris for taking us through his experience. My wife and I are beginners and just got our first bows - we are lucky to live quite near Lancaster Archery Supply in Pennsylvania, and we tried out a variety of bows that they set up for us. She ended up getting something very similar to the wood long bow Chris liked (maybe just a rebranded version?), while I went with a WNS Forged Elite. I would have been happy with the next level down in the WNS line but they were out of stock. Looking forward to using them after the holidays! Your videos have been super helpful as I've been learning this craft.
The other coaches and I always take along a large part of our own collections around 35lbs and under on the last night of our beginner's courses so people can try them out. Over the years before we started doing it we had too many people buy beginner's bows or things like longbows off the net that were too heavy and they did not enjoy themselves after that. It is amazing how many people that did not like using sights on the club bows suddenly like them when they get a chance to use a compound.
Also we seem to get a lot of people that want to shoot an English/Welsh longbow until they realise it takes a lot of work to be good with one, which is when they find an AFB, an Asiatic, a traditional recurve or just barebow scratches the no sights itch in a similar way but is a little easier to get into.
It also tends to show like with Chris that beginners serious about improving may need to revaluate how much they are willing to spend and where compromises can be made and where they should not. We tend to suggest if they are unsure what they want to shoot or where they want to go that they spend a reasonable amount of money on a recurve riser but cheaper limbs as they will probably change them within the year. With those as a base they can shoot traditional with wooden arrows, barebow with aluminium / carbon arrows or they can put on sights and stabilisers for recurve.
NUSensei I love my phantom but I got it accidentally in a high poundage and I’m not looking to buy more limbs. What do I do
Option 1, adjust the tillerbolts (up and down equally) to drop in poundag. But be carefull to not lose them to far out. Option2, see if you can adjust the brace height, a lower brace height will give a slightly lower poundage but will also be less forgiving. Option 3, buy new limbs and trade the old ones. Struggling against high poundage will kill the pleasure. Investing in new limbs will at least assure a comfortable experience what will make the investment worth it in the long run
@@darkedy8707 Not much you can do. You can't change the poundage on the MD Phantom.
What a fortunate beginner, have such a possibility to try so many different bows in one go.
Whit a good instructor! Everyone should have this luck!
pax et bonum
You too!!
I'm getting the Atmos cuz it's the seemingly most accurate. And you can leave it strung forever
Nice!@@redsquarejay
He just payed well. Luck is not included in this. Just a simple deal between two guys.
Had the bow set up at a pro shop. It performed just fine ruclips.net/user/postUgkxQEKUoxLWwayEDZR0NKB-5limn4MBU-2L . And I would say this is a good starting now that I could pass down to my son when he is older.But the package was missing the release and a nock was missing from one arrow.Dealing with customer support was terrible. They suggested I buy a new release rather than correct their own quality control issue because it’s to expensive for the. to ship it out from China.Update: manufacturer got back to me and resolved the issue. I retract the above statement.
NUSensei: "Half my collection"
Me: *slightly envious*
Slightly? Wish I had the cash or a RUclips channel where they actually give you the cool shot just for a review.
Hate to be that guy...But what a blessing ! Btw where can I get 33 or 34inch rows cheap
RUclips is finally giving me good recommendations
I started out with a 55 lb. Samick Sage and I couldn't be happier. I'm glad I chose the higher poundage. Yes, it was hard at first, and I would end up sore after about 20 shots, but using it day in and day out, constantly increasing my time with it quickly developed my strength. Now I know you say "work on proper form first", but that's the beauty of archery, it's highly personalized and I developed a form that works for me. I'm sure a coach would have a field day with me, but who cares? I can still hit the ten ring at 30-40 yards.
Well, that's all just because you're a "dog-faced soldier"!
Awesome !!
I'm concerned about My strength to pull the 60 pounds that just arrived. I'm not a "skinny" guy, but i'm gonna need to work the proper set of muscles and technique. Not a "draw ego", just were the last limbs on stock, and couldnt wait another month and 1/2
Does your shoulder ever get sore?
This was very helpful coming from someone looking to get into archery as well. Thanks for another great video!
This was perfect having an inexperienced guy try them out. You get the real view point. Thank you.
Very good video!! Coming from someone who will start learning to shoot in March, this video is what a beginner really needs to watch. To understand what someone "thinks" and "feels" when shooting different bows is crucial when it comes to understanding them.
but why only in march?
@@B1SQ1T Because here in the Netherlands, it is not easy to find Archery clubs. The town I live in (Enschede) only has one. When I enrolled back in November, it originally said there were 3 spots in December, but when I tried to apply for it, they said it was full and March is the next available slot. It really sucks, but it gives me a LOT of time to watch @NUSensei videos.
This is a very good video, super helpfull
If I was Chris I would not spend 700+ dollars on my first bow(s) knowing I would spend 1000$ 6 months later, you'll lose value on the first 2 bows when you resell to get the Bear. Doesnt look like the best financial idea.
I would probably shoot the clubs bow for another month or 2 and go straight into the Bear
Based on your experience what bow would you recommend for a beginner?
@@nekoklutzchanxd I would go something under $200, I dont know anything about archery, but from a photographer aspect, you buy a cheap used camera first, and figure out if you enjoy it or not. I'm buying one for my nephew so if he doesn't like archery I'm not wasting $400 on a bow
@@coltoncyr2283 Thanks!
Would love to hear how Chris is doing with his choice. Thanks for another great video
This is my fave video. Have watched it several times. Would love to see more novices trying out bows and giving their opinion.
When i started in aus I went to Urban Archery in melb and they were excellent let me shoot a couple arrows on the cheapest to the expensive and now have still bot my hoyt gamemaster with in 45# and 66# limbs.
Same happend with my daughter when buying hers to.
Thank you guys for helping find my passion.
100% shoot before you look weight, length and recurve vs longbow.
If a shop won't let u try find a more supportive shop.
Love the content nu
Thank you this tip!! I went to archery range for the very first time this past weekend and now I’m looking to join a club.
I wish I had watched more reviews on bow before I started buying bows. This was a surprising review.
Really excellent video, guys, thanks so much! I agree with other comments, it would be nice to have a follow-up with Chris and see what he thinks now.
"Tell us about your self.."
"Uhhh.. normal guy.. uh.. oh, I'm a security gu-" *edit*
-" so you're interested in archery".
#wrecked.
But for real great video, love the channel, been watching a lot and recently bought my first bow. Been shooting a lot this past week.
In part I picked the Samick Sage because it felt good in my hand.
Similar to this bloke I bought my first bow when I was 16, it was a traditional bow 75lb, but now years later (I am 43) I am looking to get into archery as a hobby, so this has been informative.
I live close to you and you are probably my local club, I will pop down some time next year and see what I like.
well, did you?
@@Feanorsmagicjewels I got a new job and have barely any free time, so no, not yet, but I still think about it sometimes.
How long did it take you to draw the 75lb back? I could hardly pull a 20lb back when I was that age.
@@uK8cvPAq I was already working a physical job, so straight away.
@@dawnrazornephilim Still pretty impressive, I think I'd still struggle with 75lb lol.
The Bosen Hor 25" is funny for me with these recurve limbs. I've a gunmetal coloured 25" Horn with longbow limbs. When I've appeared in the club few weeks ago eyes of most of the members are widened. :-)
I think more important than the Bow itself is choosing the right Draw weight to start.
You can see how "bad" the whole draw cycle is shooting the heavier bows. lots of shaking, finger pinch, ...
There's so much to learn when you start, you don´t want to fight your bow.
f.E. i found a 35# Bow easy to draw but it got quite heavy after 50 Arrows.
I then decided to go lighter, chose 24# limbs and it was much better. The lighter Bow gives you much more Time to focus on Technique.
The only downside is, you step up the weight quite fast which can get expensive.
A lot of Shops offer Limbs for rent. Our Shop doesn´t charge for changing Limbs, that´s quite lucky.
Nusensei I know it's been a long time since the video was posted but I just wanted to say that as a friend and instructor you did a wonderful job with helping and guiding him. I would not let my friends shoot with any of my dearest equipment.
I bought my first bow not so long ago in a cheaper price because no one in my club could/wanted to shoot such a large bow, it's a Bearpaw Field Star 28 pounds and 68 inches in length. My coach happened to have the same length of limbs which were 32 pounds so he traded in it with me after a few months that I got used to the 28 and I feel good with it :D
What a great twist on the intro to archery type video! Actually having a beginner share this thoughts was so helpful to me in the same beginner shoes! Thanks for the video!
He should have had a go with your "Black Hunter".... I picked up a 45# one for £75, I draw that to 53# and for the bang for the buck it is hard to beat! Makes for a great trad recurve bow which is EFEE compliant.
X2 on that
Looking for my first bow. This video was helpful and enlightening!
Really good video to fill out the knowledge void when getting into the sport and picking a bow. Keep it up Nu!
Hey I have that southwest spyder 45#, as my first bow! Really nice bow, had so much fun with it. But after 1 year got a hand injury after a shot. Took me 5 months to heal completely :( after that, I went back to it and still enjoyed the bow! But now, I consider buying a 30# bow. I feel I will be able to use it for longer shooting sessions and also, let my girlfriend try it. Still recommend the spyder, if you want a quick, fun workout, and a good hunting recurve bow!
I did not expect to watch this entire video...but it was great ! Thanks for this upload
I also bought a bow fast. Got the Ragim Matrix Evo and it was a good price for starter. I'm just in love with Archery now
Valuable advice from two very nice personalities. I wish I had seen it before I bought blind online. It arrives today. 😳
August 2020, re watching. Always enjoy seeing people learn & discover 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I also shot a bear takedown, a $150, and $500 bow, one after the other.
The bear takedown is worth it. But, I would wait calmly and buy, when it pops up on the used market.
One thing I wish bear would do, is upgrade the riser so the limbs would be ILF compliant. It's the only aspect keeping me from purchasing.
My Olympic bow changed my mind forever! Shooting 183 FPS with 700 shafts...
My freestyle recurve shoots at about 150 fps with my heavy indoor arrows, 165 with my outdoor arrows. I think I will retest with my new chrony.
For begginers buy a geologic initech 2. Costs 50 € and it's a very very good bow. Highly underrated but highly recommended. I assure you. You will have a great experience using Initech 2.
you are so lucky to try different bows before buying it :D
I'm new to archery doing it for just a couple of months now. I bought my first bow, a Samick Polaris when I saw your comparison to Sage and Polaris. I liked the handle. Then I googled and they say you should start w/ 30# not 40#. So, I bought w/ 36#'der just in the middle. And it still felt so heavy. My first mistake. Should have gone through a shop not online. I can probably draw a recurve bow from 28# to 30# at the moment. The next month after, my second bow was a compound bow, also do a lot of searching. I was looking for a target and hunting bow at the same time. So I decided that I would buy a Hoyt Powermax but my local store doesn't have my poundage and draw length and ended up buying the Hoyt Nitrux w/c has my draw length and poundage. And now I'm buying my 3rd bow my Christmas gift to myself for this archery adventure. the bow will arrive 27th of Dec this week. A Gillo G2 that i bought from ebay someone selling from Victoria. LOL!. Hopefully its a good bow for barebow or target. Whatever setup that I would decide later.
How did it go?
I made my first riser, and got some cheap limbs. It has problems, because it's my first attempt, but it's strong. My plan is to stick with it, and work up in draw weight to where I want to be, then buy or make something serious.
Excellent video, really good hearing and seeing first hand a beginners ideal all the way through to the surprising type of bow chosen! I used to shoot recurve many years ago at a club for a short time, but want now to get into traditional bow shooting and love the idea of a takedown longbow, however, after seeing this, my dreams may be shattered 😂. I do like Grizzly Jim’s Striker longbow, but would have to try one first before spending that sort of cash. Likewise, I live the look of Bodnik Mohawk Chief too, ahhhhh .
hey man this isn't my account but i just wanna say that i love your vids so thx for making them
Manged to pick up my first bow, Southwest Archery Spyder ( Cartel Epic Hawk here in the UK ) for £70 quid new which is about $90. My problem is that the closest archery store to me is about 30 miles away so I more or less have to buy online. Couldn't really let it go at that price.
Please list his top 3 bows..did not catch what he said
Hi NUSensei great video
do the manufactures do trial days at the different local archery clubs ?
or will the archery shops let us try the different bow in store ?
Manufacturers don't go out to archery clubs. At best, the big ones go to major archery events and trade shows. Some local distributors might be more active in advertising their items, but don't expect anyone to come out. Best place to try new bows is from archery shops - they're usually more than willing to let you try bows, since they're making the sale. Of course, shops might not be able to give you the time and service you need depending on how busy they are, or they might lack expertise in a given area of archery.
Thanks appreciate your response cheers Greg
I'm kicking myself for not pulling the trigger on the Horn longbow or recurve when I had the chance. Can't seem to find them anywhere trustworthy. I have a longer draw length, about 29", and so many bows seem designed for shorter arms. Been itching to get back to archery with something I can grow with, #25 to start. And I like the adjustability of the ILF system, versus just takedown. I'll just bide my time I guess, and hope.
Hi guys! I’m really impressed with your channel.
Here is the dilemma that I need help with……I’ve owned three bows in my life. A beginner youth bow, a 1970’s recurve, and a Browning compound bow.
Now, in my old age, I’m wanting to get back into archery.
I’m 68 years old, and have two rotator cuff tears. My right shoulder has a > 50% tear , and my left shoulder has a
@@forreststump11👍
@@forreststump11 Thanks Mr. ForrestStump11!
Born in ‘54 as a farm boy in N. Central Michigan, Fred Bear was all the rage when I was young, and I yearned to have a Fred Bear Bow!
Back when our family would vacation in the U.P. of Michigan, in 1964, my dad stopped so that I could visit the Fred Bear museum on I-75. I felt that the sun rose and set on Fred Bear (and Bart Star, of course)!
My dad had all the shooting he’d ever wanted to see during WWll, and he was never a sportsman, so I know he did it just for me! The museum was a magical place for my generation!
Nowadays, when shooting rifles at the gun range, I’m happy to shoot 1/10th the ammo that I’d shoot when I was young,
With regard to archery, I believe I could draw a 40-45 lb bow for a half hour or so! Heck, that’s why they make Diclofenac pain gel (that stuff is great for shoulder pain)!
I never fully jumped on the compound bow bandwagon.
The Browning compound I owned, to me, was temperamental and eventually warped. For sure it was my fault, but I was never schooled in the care and feeding of this bow design. I gave it away to a young guy years ago.
Anyway, thanks a bunch for your great advice! I believe I’ll buy a Bear just for nostalgic reasons, probably a 40-45 pounder!
@@forreststump11 👍My sister and brother in law, met #66 at the MSU Rose Bowl game in 1988! I have a picture of him with them at some bar in town after the game. They all looked very happy!
This was great! Getting the perspective from a beginner.
How I bought my bow: Damn, this one looks dope. Ah, good reviews........as long as I look at the positive reviews only......... I'll buy it when I outgrow my current ris- oh Black Friday. Bought.
Do you live in Australia
unfortunately we live in different countries, cuz a friend of mine took me bow shooting a couple of days ago for my very first time and i loved it, it would be awesome to shoot a video like this wit you. And now im looking into buying one, but all the choices are overwhelming and i really dont want to buy "by the looks"....just like Chris i really enjoy the "classic looks"....so im leaning towards a "single piece" recurve instead of a take down...is that a good idea?
luv the stache.... :>)... im new too and i picky as hell ! 200 videos /mad about learn all i can.... i picked the purple bow before the video started! The thick allum..riser and 25 inch.. sturdy /strong/accurate....but fav thing is the quality of limb pockets/ability to change limbs for different poundages (draw weight).. problem is= i find the bow i want and they not come in LH-lefty ...Help .. wood risers seem to be easy to crack .. dry out.. im want tuff.. and can double as fish rig!
Hey NUSensei, would you please do a video on the best exercises to get rid of target panic (premature anchor) ? Thanks !!
Good to see a beginners perspective.. I can't wait to get back into archery after almost 20years of not shooting. As soon as my finances will allow.
26:52 what is the name of the brand and the model of this bow
Hi NU :) would you recommend the phantom bow (take down, you’ve done a video on it) as a first bow? I really really love the feel of it from what I’ve seen, and I’ve been debating buying it for a long time now.
Did you end up buying it? I plan to get started with Archery this Summer and I was thinking about that bow too.
15JusTT I have not :( sorry!
@@ptmfrosty Did you buy another bow, tho?
I like the 4 th,bow,45 power
With all the chatter I'm not hearing any really substantial reason **why** any bow is better than another, for example why the $1000 recurve is any better than the OMP. Is he any more accurate with the $1000 bow than the OMP?
Accuracy is a function of the archer, not the bow. That said, the cost difference will greatly affect not just the consistency of the shot (more expensive bows will experience less variation in shot due to materials and structure), but will often "feel" better in their weight, balance, ergonomics, vibration and feedback. The OMP, for example, is fine to start with for short distance beginners, but it will struggle immense for longer-distance competitive shooting because it wasn't designed to be pushed to that level.
Cool video Nu Sensei, thanks
I have a bow I would like you to review- “Wind Warrior by White Wolf Archery.55 lb
A beautiful long bow with Mongolian like curves.
How can we set this up?
I injured my shoulder and the poundage is a bit much right now. I planned to hunt whitetails with it.
oh a lot of people would love to see Nu doing a review of a a White Wolf bow, they make such beautiful bows, i hope you and him can work something out, i personally just can't afford a White Wolf atm, have been looking at their penobscot the Wind Warrior.
Max Power i am waiting on Nu to reply!
It is a beautiful bow, though I find it odd that they compare it to a Mongolian style bow of all things. Limbs that curve smoothly to the tip are definitely not a feature of Mongol bows.
33 mins? I made my decision in the first 10 seconds... the purple one on the end!!
Why?
@@randomperson2348 Cuz it's gaudy... :)
Christopher J. Bottaro but you dont know How it works?....
I liked that one too,but I couldn't quite make out what he said it was called,can anyone help me please?? I've rewound it loads of times but can't quite make out what he says
@@becky2235 its listed in the description box
Really good idea for a podcast!
Interesting enough. However you need to do a video 'So where do I go from here'.
With a little more than 2 years experience in archery I can be hardly be considered a beginner. I know I love it, and I want to continue archery. In fact I consider it the best thing I've ever done in my life. I believe I've proved myself as being a competent archer and a worthy opponent at the range, mostly traditional only 3D shoots. Far from great, I want to continue to improve. But where do I go from here?
My Samick Sage recurve has now become somewhat boring. I bought a longbow just to experience what it would be like. I got a Bodnick Slickstick. I love that bow but wish I'd have purchased one with a heavier draw weight. But something is still missing...…… Again, where do I go from here?
What do you want to improve? Where do you want to go?
@@windscalestephen Perhaps I should have been more clear. Speaking more about bow selection as in the video.
@@jaddkay1 Ah OK. So different bow options for intermediates then?
I have a Jaguar takedown bow with a 55 lb draw. What’s your opinion on this now?
Hey @Nusensei I am not an archer yet, but I have been researching about it, your videos are true jewels. I am thinking on ordering my first bow though there is one problem. I am mostly left handed but still use the right hand for certain things... My question is, which kind of bow, Left or right handed should i get? Is there a way to know which hand I will be shooting if I am ordering trough the internet?
Thanks for reading.
Im right dominant but prefer aiming from left. If theres a range nearby just take a lesson and see how it feels? can also ask the shop.
I'm assuming you found out, but usually it is based off of eye dominance. Put your arms out and make a triangle between your thumbs and index fingers. Look at an object through the triangle with both eyes open. Close one eye without changing your point of view, and see if the open one is focused on the object. The one in focus is your dominant eye.
@@aboveaveragebayleaf9216 Thanks for the advise and taking the time. I will definitely try it.
@@Pugglesfdsaads its good advise actually. Thanks for taking the time. cheers!
@@aboveaveragebayleaf9216 I know I'm late but...this info just helped me a lot. Thanks.
Just started taking classes and am loving archery and want a bow. Don’t want to spend hundreds but don’t want to get a lower end beginner and then wish I had spent more so I didn’t feel need to upgrade so soon.
Would like to see comparisons of bows from different companies like a Black Hunter, Tiger Pro, ect
I'm in the same boat. I don't want to buy some £70 starter bow that I'm going to tire of quickly. But I don't want to be spending £1200 until I know archery's for me.
@@agnostic47 i can certainly understand why firearms are popular when a good bow costs more than most rifles. The prohibitive cost of archery is what is stopping me.
Good episode 😊
which size bow and arrows should i buy Im new to this and the pound of the bow for pulling should i use all the basics for it
Have you compare between any shape of riser? Even all of them use recurve limbs?
I don't find the video yet.
Thx.
hey Nusensei, have u ever heard of the CenterPoint aspen? how is it?
Thank you for this wonderful video.
I've shot compound bows for years but am now thinking about buying a takedown recurve of some sort. Do you have any suggestions on a good quality recurve that will not break the bank in 50lb draw.i will be using for hunting and target.
If you're willing to think outside of the box you can build a Carsage. It consists of a Cartel triple 62 riser and Samick Sage limbs. I built mine through Lancaster Archery. Came in at around $120, two years ago. I'm pulling 45# and it shoots like a dream!
great video can't get any these bow's in the uk
Anyonje help me find a link to the purple/pink box used please?
Very cool to see a beginners reaction to these bows. Being a newbie too, I have been asking myself these same questions while looking around for a second bow. My first bow is a bit too heavy for me, and will have to wait for me to get stronger. I am waiting for the recurve version of the Bosenbows Horn 17" 25 lbs , that I have ordered. Can I also use longbow limbs on that one? In other words, is the riser the same in the recurve and the longbow?
As long as the longbow limbs you are looking at are ILF you can use them on the horn riser, be careful they make bolt down limbs as well for the cheaper riser. You will also need a different string as there will likely be difference in length. You will need to check how the draw weight is rated on the limbs so you chose the right ones, I think they are rated on a 17" riser but if they are rated on a 25" riser they will gain 0.75 - 1lb per inch shorter than 25" the riser is so they will be around 6-8lbs heavier on the 17" riser, so you may have to pick a lighter limb than you think.
I have the 17" horn and the 19" reaper from Bosen and while on the lower price point end of risers they feel on par with some of the more expensive kit I have had over the years. Their cheaper foam core limbs I got with the reaper actually feel nice so I am thinking of picking up the longbow limbs myself. I really want the 25" horn or the stronghold but I really don't have need for another recurve riser at the moment.
@@PurpleDracos The Bosen bows limbs I'm looking at are rated for 17" riser. My only concern is that the 17" Horn Longbow riser and the 17" Horn Recurve riser (altough they look exactly the same to me) are priced differently. I thought that while both being ILF, they might be different in some way, to accomodate the different style of limbs. I just recently learned about ILF system, so I'm probably just overthinking this.
I'll also am getting the foam core limbs with my bow, so I'm glad you find them to be nice!
@@SipTea I think the difference in price is only due to who is selling them, whether you are just getting the riser with no limbs or which limbs or quality of limbs you get with the bow. I seem to remember the foam core limbs being about £50 more than the wood core and the longbow limbs being a little cheaper than the recurve. They do do a cheaper 17" riser than the horn they put in a longbow kit as well.
In the long run most ILF limbs should fit any ILF riser do watch out for fat dovetails and bolt groves though as not all companies make things exactly the same size. Also remember that the length and geometry of the riser can affect the draw weight, my Win & Win nano max and the other Win & Win geometry bows like SF I have tried weigh a pound or two heavy compared to what the limbs say for a 25" riser.
@@PurpleDracos Ok, I'll definately make sure to get correct lenght of string, and make sure to check the lenght of the limbs/draw weight. I also need to consider my short draw lenght. So much to think of and to learn :) Thanks!
@@SipTea The budget ILF longbow limbs form Bosen Archery also come in two lengths, medium=60" bow, and large=62" bow on a 17" riser.
If you buy the same length as your recurve limbs the string you've got should be fine. Depending on where you're buying (Ebay, Aliepress etc) you should be able to find maple and foam core options too.
Nu, do you think a draw weight of 35lb is reasonable for a beginner......average size slim build adult? Like your Stingray, or is 30lb a better option? I definitely think 40lb would be too high, but maybe 35lb is ok.
I'd go 30 unless you really need the extra 5 pounds
Hi i need some advice, im looking to go into learning mongolian type archery. Where i load on the opposite side and hold/lock the arrow with my thumb. Now my question is, are there any modern recurve bows that suit this type of mongolian archery. Or should i just get a left handed bow since im right handed so that it forces me to load on the opposite side, as opposed to loading on the side of the arm holding the bow if i used a regular right handed bow. I hope you understand my question in that all im looking for is a modern recurve bow suitable for mongolian style archery where i have to load on the opposite side even though im a right hander.
Why would you buy a bow that isn't designed for Mongolian shooting, when you can buy a Mongolian-style horse bow? You could get a left-handed bow, but the grip is the wrong shape and you'd have to modify it to be comfortable. You might as well buy a horse bow.
May I ship the bow to you for review?
I’m curious what configuration you have your SWA Stingray in. I remember your review video but you never stated bow length and riser length.
Is the x7 blitz wolf 45bls a good begginer bow?
Excellent video, thanks.
10:41 Ok most people are not thinking $500 is "affordable" also why did you not tell him to not hold the bow fully drawn for so long is not good, one motion more natural less thinking!
Great show. Don't rely on ones gut alone. If possible shoot it first. Thanks.
where do we get this bow from?
And now I still wonder between Bosen Horn 17" or 25", I can only order online from china :(
my concerned is price and their different in handle. I care not about speed. Seem I like 17" for quite smooth, but 25" seem better mechanical?
I dislike using wood riser, My draw length is 28in-34in(80-95cm left-hand to my jaw) (180cm finger to finger),my height is 178cm/70in/5'10, draw weight 30 is comfortable for my 4 hours practice while in control, 35 and up a bit overwhelming when I do more than 3.5hours practice, shaking and unable to hold arrow
I dont know how long will I be in archery but the bow will be used during 3-4 coming years, archery equipment is not available in my country but i can order from china
I am 5'11'' what length should my bow b my draw is 29''
d74morris
I’d say 62”. The standard for adult guys
The beginner who consistently hits bullseyes???
Chris Coppin the distance is like 10 metres
"I would never think of spending $1000 on a recurve"
Bow collectors: "I feel attacked"
How much is the horn recurve
about 400-500 USD
he rlly got the Oliver Queen goatee
Don't skimp on cost get your best ideal bow right off the bat assuming you know what you're looking for you'll end up paying a lot less in the long run. If you're really not sure start out with the cheapest piece of shit you can and just see how you like it or better yet borrow a friend's and go shooting with him if you know you're going to stick with it don't skimp but make sure you know what you want. I suppose those two things might be contradictory being new and knowing what you want but considering who you were with at the moment shouldn't have too much of an issue
I think it’s a little weird that I got an add about archery and bows before watching this
That's how RUclips works, it matches the ads to the videos. It also tracks your watch history and what you Google and selects ads for you based on what you're interested in. Amazon looks at your search history too to recommend products.
Google, Facebook, Amazon, Instagram, etc. they all share user activity data for targeted advertising.
Why else do you think they're free? because targeted advertising is so profitable and efficient.
If someone like Chris really enjoyed the Bear but not in budget. What would you recommend at lower price point that shoots the closest to this Bear?
Just FYI the recurve bow was used a lot during the medieval period. See Shad's video at ruclips.net/video/JbF8BaGsuts/видео.html.
Do I hear some Ozs vibes?
Drawing the bow on the way up isn't going to help an inexperienced archer achieve repeatable good form, or establish a good anchor and a consistent draw. It's great if you know what you're doing but it's just too much of a complex movement when someone hasn't developed the necessary strength and technique to hit their shot components with any consistency. Might be worth while setting the bow hand first so all that needs doing is draw, set and release.
Ps not criticising just offering a few suggestions in the hope that he might avoid a few common pitfalls
Thanks!
Hi god bless have a good one
Do more collabs
You'll always get a no nonsense appraisal from a Aussie.
Dude he’s from New Zealand. I’m an Aussie and that’s definitely a kiwi accent.
Thank you
Thx for the vid
I used a bow that had 1700lbs and cost 5500 dollars. My ego was at its highest for one week