I shoot draw weights from 20lb-165lb. It’s a lot of fun to shoot in different style of archery in the context of historical reenactment, not bow hunting context
Thank you for the good advice. I have ordered a recurve and set my poundage to 30lb. Single piece recurve. I know that I can shoot 24-28lb easily, so 30 should be my comfort zone in a few months when I get back into the swing of it. Appreciate you taking my ego out of the equation. :)
Excellent point. The eluding to machismo factor is dead on. I struggled with getting older and my accuracy suffering shooting 55# bows. I’ve dropped back to 45# and have tightened my groups and gained the enjoyment of shooting again. The target, whether it be a bale of hay or quarry don’t know the differences between a 55# or a 45# bow. Shot placement is what wins. Good, clean shooting is what we should ALL strive for.
Thank you! This video answered all my questions about how and why to choose a specific pundage, and that it is still possible to shoot longer range with lower poundage.
As someone who has literally taken delivery of their first bow, I totally agree. I'm a short guy at a ripe old age of 63 and have driven a desk for many years. I spoke to a chap about the hobby who offered me a few shots with his bow #30 and it was fairly good, so I bought a Samic Sage starter kit at #35, big mistake, after putting it together I immediately realised I was going to struggle. I have just placed an order for a second set of limbs at #25 to get started. We all think we can go out and pull huge weights, but after 15 minutes, we wake up to reality. Many thanks for your wisdom.
@markevinlagsac3252 one word statements are weak. Perhaps you would like to expand and share your experience with those of us who are just starting out..
I have an 80 pound English longbow that pulls like a dream. A recurve that was a little more than half the weight was nowhere near as fun or easy to shoot. I am a longbowman through and through, and I am really glad that there are still people who can make the good old warbows.
I finally have come to a conclusion. There's maybe one or two people I feel can even compete with your knowledge and quality of information. Really enjoy your channel and thank you for all of this.
I love how you're so relaxed and honest! Subbed and liked! Very nice video!! I just bought a 50 lbs recurve and I think I did excatly that - went in a bit over my head. I mean i can do it nicely but after like 10 shots it's time for a rest, but I might just buy additional lower LBS limbs, because I bought a takedown bow , which is great that I can also fly on the plane with (checked in as a sports equipment)
The bow I borrowed from the range till I bought my own was 18 lbs. My first limbs was 30 lbs and they made me sore for a while. I am shooting a longbow barebow and I increase my lbs 5 lbs at a time. A lot of internet videos make it sound like it would be easy to start with 45 lbs. I couldn't even pull a 45 lbs bow when I started.
I took up field archery two years ago. My first bow was a 30# Samick Sage. Two years on, I'm still using it because I love it! I'm pretty good with it, can hit every target on our course, and so see no reason to change. I did buy a 35# Lapwing White Feather bow at the beginning of last year, but I hardly ever use it.
Thank you very much for your info in this video. I am looking at buying a takedown recurve very soon. Have only shot at 20lbs as that is the highest the club bows go up to. Our coach let us borrow some of her bows just to try- 36lb Mongolian bow was too much for me for accuracy, and her 28lb recurve wasn’t too heavy, but took me around 10 arrows to get it onto the target but in terms of weight that actually felt OK. I’ll probably aim for 25lb to start with even though this chart I found says I should be 35-40lb.
I totally agree, if You have the right setup, a light weight carbon arrow and matching spine, You can do great things with a 30 lbs, even a 25 lbs bow! Sometimes the bow classes on tournaments are a problem: I love longbows and horsebows. Modern longbows and horsebows are made from modern materials (fiberglass, carbon laminated with wood or bamboo, bows sometimes are even made from resin today), but the rules force us to shoot wooden arrows! Hard to find matching wooden arrows for a 30 lbs bow, most are to heavy....
Good info, totally agree, i used 41 pounds longbow, its feel manaegable but not confortable, change for a 35 pounds recurve bow, so much better, enjoyable. Great videos.
I started with 55 pounds because the old dude at the shop I used to go to said 55 is the best you can hunt anything in north America. Well I think I'm ok in strength category and it used to wear on me after a while. That said I want to get a ilf rig with maybe 40-45 somewhere in there to try out sometime soon.
I've only recently started archery and I'm really loving it. I went though a very low poundage as I go though the first few and I'm planning on continuing to go up in poundage once I feel confortable with my last poundage and have some good form. But tried a 30 lbs longbow when I've been shooting a 22 lbs barebow, and I have to saw my form was awful. I was shaky but I was able to manage it. Since I know what I can manage, once I feel ready I might buy a 30 lbs bow and shoot that for a while.
I started off with 20lb limbs on a Samick Sage. I took some flack for it too but that’s ok. I then shot 35lbs for awhile and now my preferred bow is a 43lb Colt Pioneer. I could not have started that heavy and learned good form but, now I can shoot into the high 40’s comfortably.
I started at 36#, tbh could've started lower and it would have been more fun probably, but eventually got used to it. Anything over 30 sucks though if you want to shoot with your friends, a lot of them will struggle.
My friend recommended I get a 30 pound. I’m currently still shopping around, but my shoulders have a tendency to pull out of socket a bit so should I try for a 25?
I totally agree, I shoot a 50#@28" for hunting, and shoot 40#@28" for practice. Granted, my draw length is 30.5 inch, so I'm shooting more than the rated, but I'd always recommend you practice form and consistency with a lower poundage until you feel YOU are good enough for the higher poundage.
Great Video. I dropped from 42lb to 32lb after damaging my shoulder. I was over bowed and as I tried to clean up my technique the release was hammering my shoulder. I didn't have the control/strength to get the 42lb onto my back. With the covid restrictions last year my shoulder healed and I decided to not risk it again. My pile on is now 53yds instead of 70yds but my scores/enjoyment are going up.
Nice! Loving You brake an arrow for light weight bows. I am still shooting my 28# Darton Classic recurve. Got it when I was 12 and still love shooting it for 3D (55 years old by now). The joy of shooting a totally controled shot is so rewarding. No high poundage can compete with that. Keep up the good work😉
If you hunt in the U.S every state has different poundage regulations. If you are only going to hunt your home state, see what the minimum is and go with it or a little more if it's 100% comfortable. Some states have no minimum, some at 30#, 35# 40#. It seems 40# will cover almost if not all states except on Elk, Moose.
I completely agree. I have not shot for a few years. Took the 50# recurve out and I was not comfortable. Have a 35# hybrid coming this week. Get my form back to where I was.
As an OAP I can shoot my 34# recurve an hour at a time and in that hour will shoot over 300 arrows if I put 40# limbs on the bow then it’s a completely different ball game, I really struggle to control the bow.
You’re absolutely spot on. My archery started at the age of 9 and was reasonably successful having been on the British Field Archery squad for 8 years. However, having been over bowed for much of the time when my joints were developing I suffered an injury to my bow arm elbow. The result was that just as I was coming into my prime I had to retire from archery. After 11 cortisone injections in my elbow it was just too painful to continue. I do still shoot a little but these days have to shoot compound to get around the injury that still bothers me now 36 years later.
Wow, yeah. Same can happen if you lift heavy weights while in early teens. Bodyweight excersises are the best, atleast until 21. Wish you as little pain as possible, not trying to sound smart, but try to eat alot of colagen. Should help with joints in general.
These tips are gold for beginning archers, but as an intermediate I have found that shooting a higher limit poundage comfortably will bypass form and release issues and the arrow will shoot straighter even when something went wrong during the release process.
I’m brand new to archery and still working out my ideal draw weight, my first bow was a cheap 70# horse bow, i nearly broke my back trying to pull it at first, i then got a 40# one and its great, im a pretty good shot too tbf, i love it so much i have now ordered a Samick sage at 30# and ANOTHER horse bow at 30# with an arrow rest, all cheap and cheerful whilst im experimenting with what suits me, i can now pull and shoot the 70# bow, yes im shaking a tad but i keep having a go here and there and slowly its getting better, im an instinctive shooter, i just look at what i want to hit and pull and release and hope for the best lol, absolutely love it, im 56 now and found my cupid 💘 hobby..!
Depends on your draw length which dictates the arrow length which in turn affects the effective (aka dynamic) spine. Consult arrow charts from the arrow manufacturer to get a general idea of which spine (i.e. the spine rating marked on the shafts) to buy for your drawlenght. Actual arrow length is longer than draw length, due to safety reasons. Usually it is just in front of riser when at full draw, but some barebow and trad, as well as indoor shooters might like even longer arrows for different reasons. The arrow charts are based on actual arrow length which is from where the point meets the shaft to the nock position. One checks that one has correct spine through bareshaft tuning. But this is not so important when starting out. Get arrows that is in the ballpark through the arrow charts and then work on your form. When you group well, then you start to work with bareshaft tuning.
im returning after 6 yrs off and previously i had 32lb on the fingers and couldnt believe how stiff it felt, so i bought 24lb limbs, cranked the tiller bolts all the way out, and with my draw length measured the poundage at 26.5lb which feels just about right to build my form back up without straining but putting enough on to allow me to build back up. remember you can adjust the poundage by 10%, (5% each way from the limb rating) so if im at 26lb now with min settings, i should be able to adjust the bow to get upto about 29lb by cranking the tiller bolts all the way in, before returning to my old limbs which will prob go upto 35lb. i'm no expert, but in a nutshell id say go low to start till you build your form and gradually increase by a lb or two over time. as they say, power is nothing without control. GL
About 3 years ago, I had made the decision to have a hybrid longbow custom made. Having watched several of my fellow club members sidelined with shoulder injuries (and being no spring chicken myself), I decided to play it very safe by dropping my new bow to 40 lbs from the 50 I had been shooting. I have never regretted the decision. My control and accuracy are greatly increased and, since I am not a hunter, I really have no reason to miss the extra ten lbs.
Jim, I wondered if you could do some shooting glove reviews? I find the tips of my fingers get sore after an hour of shooting and I have dropped poundage towards the end of sessions because of it. I wondered if having a thicker glove with more reinforced tips may help with that? All the best to you stay safe.
I have changed to a glove and 3 under with neutral tiller, As I was doing that many arrows a day I was heading for injury. Merlin Archery do a good range of gloves like the Bearpaw etc. I did have to mentally concentrate on my release though, But within a couple of hours I got it smooth again.
I can play with 85#-90# bow bc I believe heavy draw weight bow with correct arrow can give damage more.. Even ur predecessors, English Longbowman believe it so if not why they risk themselves?? Low poundage is for training if you using it for hunting it will not kill quick.. There's country or state already give best poundage for said animal..
Hi Jim. Liked your videos. I’m now using a WNS MOTIVE FX25 classified an intermediate riser and would like to upgrade. I’m now choosing between SANLIDA X 10 and TOPOINT UNISON RISER which are both affordable. Are they good choices or can I just stick to my old WNS MOTIVE FX25? Please help me decide
First off thanks for all the videos. I started shooting at the beginning of the year. Your videos and a hand full of other RUclipsrs have been my online coach's which have helped me progress nicely through the the year. Shot my first tournament this last weekend shot terrible, but had a great time thanks. Would like to see a video on GPP. Like a lot of others I have questions on 1. Lower GPP ( with in bow makers specifications). 2. Higher GPP. This would be for the people shooting Sub 40# bows at 3d and targets. I just started fiddling around with making my own arrows. Was wondering if a little heavier arrow would be more stable in flight. Or if the lighter with flatter shooting might be the ticket. I know allot of this is personal preference. But a little guidance helps. Thanks again.
I was told in the shop to take bow, pull it to ancher for 10seconds. If that works without shaking and trembling, go up 5lbs and repeat. Once you get up to a poundage where the shaking starts after 10seconds, thats about the poundage you want.
I think it's good to point out poundage also depends on what you want to do... But still remember to build up. Hunting you need a certain depending on what your tracking etc With Target and Clout you will need a certain level depending on your distance. There's is a reasons no one is shooting a 20lb bow in the Olympics.
Jim, I agree with starting low and as you said even after you have been shooting for quite a while you don't need high poundage. It's to bad we didn't have that insight when we were younger. Hope all is well with you and yours thank you.
Good advice Jim . I used to think I was clever shooting my compound set at 60lb to get the the max speed out of my shorter draw length, big mistake, turned it down to 40lb and shot far far better. Was pulling it with my teeth though 😜👍
Great video again. I personely found that loss of arrow speed because of shooting lower poundage can also be corrected by changing your arrow setup. Different point weight or others fletchings. In my case maybe also changing wooden shafts. That being said from a guy that shoots only wooden arrows. The differences in all the types of wooden shafts is something I don't know a lot off. I always use Cedar shafts.
At 74 years old my limit in bare bow is 42# @ 27", using carbon bamboo limbs. When I shoot to practice, I shoot for two hours at a time, 45 yards about 42 meters, and hitting tens, or kill zone on my 3D's, 4 days a week. But what I like to do is start at 25 yards, 20 yards, 15 yards, then work back up in distance, (instinctive) back to 25 yards, this is my variation for bow hunting here in Thailand. 45 yards I just try for target fun, would not take any hunting shot, past 30 yards, and that would be stretching it. Yes starting low poundage, to set technique first in concert first.
I don't feel manly if I don't shoot my 50 pounds bow! The shorter riser increased the poundage! Woo, yes, I'm a macho-man! Jk but my 44# limbs got jacked up to 50# and I just shot without fixing anything and it became rather familiar now!
People should train their strength, I found out that amongst the different sports out there, archers are amongst the laziest In other sports, people also train their cardiovascularity by doing cardio specific exercices. Or they train their strength in the same way. They just don't only practise their main sport. With archers (especially modern archery) they don't do that at all
They don’t really need to though. If you’re a power lifter you need to keep strength training, but Any archer that can achieve a 40lb bow has already hit the Olympic number for most professionals in accuracy.
Great video as always, they always make me want to spend money at Merlin. just sucks that Merlins customer service and support is beyond pathetic. Emails never responded to. Rude on the phone …… please change
I’ve had the complete opposite experience when dealing with Merlin, they always reply quickly to emails, sorted out warranty issues super fast, fast delivery, good advice, and have even taken the time to photograph goods for me to view during the lock down. I couldn’t ask for a better service!
I shoot draw weights from 20lb-165lb. It’s a lot of fun to shoot in different style of archery in the context of historical reenactment, not bow hunting context
Hey jack
Thank you for the good advice. I have ordered a recurve and set my poundage to 30lb. Single piece recurve. I know that I can shoot 24-28lb easily, so 30 should be my comfort zone in a few months when I get back into the swing of it. Appreciate you taking my ego out of the equation. :)
You are the most real and honest and wise archer. No bullshit whatsoever, straight up facts.
I'm a strong dude who has lifted weights for 12 years and I started at 25lbs for my first bow.
So then the 25 pound now was either really easy to draw or you’re not as strong as you think you are
My point is start with a low poundage and master the technique etc
@@Steven-jn2cw I agree, as you probably know it's the same as weights, start low and focus on form and then allow for progressive overload
@@jockwithajoystickpahahaha
Gay.
Excellent point. The eluding to machismo factor is dead on. I struggled with getting older and my accuracy suffering shooting 55# bows. I’ve dropped back to 45# and have tightened my groups and gained the enjoyment of shooting again. The target, whether it be a bale of hay or quarry don’t know the differences between a 55# or a 45# bow. Shot placement is what wins. Good, clean shooting is what we should ALL strive for.
Thank you! This video answered all my questions about how and why to choose a specific pundage, and that it is still possible to shoot longer range with lower poundage.
As someone who has literally taken delivery of their first bow, I totally agree. I'm a short guy at a ripe old age of 63 and have driven a desk for many years. I spoke to a chap about the hobby who offered me a few shots with his bow #30 and it was fairly good, so I bought a Samic Sage starter kit at #35, big mistake, after putting it together I immediately realised I was going to struggle. I have just placed an order for a second set of limbs at #25 to get started. We all think we can go out and pull huge weights, but after 15 minutes, we wake up to reality. Many thanks for your wisdom.
Same with me and still trying to figure out what arrows to use. Knowledge and experience comes slowly.
weak
@markevinlagsac3252 one word statements are weak. Perhaps you would like to expand and share your experience with those of us who are just starting out..
@@markevinlagsac3252You’d be on your ass scooting around at 65 lmao.
Got 40 lb sage shoulder injury catnt pull bak just ordered 25#
I have an 80 pound English longbow that pulls like a dream. A recurve that was a little more than half the weight was nowhere near as fun or easy to shoot. I am a longbowman through and through, and I am really glad that there are still people who can make the good old warbows.
Indeed you are are fine bowman. We have need of such men to defend the dukes castle. Come with me and there will be a heavy purse in it for you
I finally have come to a conclusion. There's maybe one or two people I feel can even compete with your knowledge and quality of information. Really enjoy your channel and thank you for all of this.
I love how you're so relaxed and honest! Subbed and liked! Very nice video!! I just bought a 50 lbs recurve and I think I did excatly that - went in a bit over my head. I mean i can do it nicely but after like 10 shots it's time for a rest, but I might just buy additional lower LBS limbs, because I bought a takedown bow , which is great that I can also fly on the plane with (checked in as a sports equipment)
The bow I borrowed from the range till I bought my own was 18 lbs. My first limbs was 30 lbs and they made me sore for a while. I am shooting a longbow barebow and I increase my lbs 5 lbs at a time. A lot of internet videos make it sound like it would be easy to start with 45 lbs. I couldn't even pull a 45 lbs bow when I started.
I took up field archery two years ago. My first bow was a 30# Samick Sage. Two years on, I'm still using it because I love it! I'm pretty good with it, can hit every target on our course, and so see no reason to change.
I did buy a 35# Lapwing White Feather bow at the beginning of last year, but I hardly ever use it.
I get this question time and again from archers I coach and support, Thanks for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you very much for your info in this video. I am looking at buying a takedown recurve very soon. Have only shot at 20lbs as that is the highest the club bows go up to. Our coach let us borrow some of her bows just to try- 36lb Mongolian bow was too much for me for accuracy, and her 28lb recurve wasn’t too heavy, but took me around 10 arrows to get it onto the target but in terms of weight that actually felt OK. I’ll probably aim for 25lb to start with even though this chart I found says I should be 35-40lb.
I totally agree, if You have the right setup, a light weight carbon arrow and matching spine, You can do great things with a 30 lbs, even a 25 lbs bow! Sometimes the bow classes on tournaments are a problem: I love longbows and horsebows. Modern longbows and horsebows are made from modern materials (fiberglass, carbon laminated with wood or bamboo, bows sometimes are even made from resin today), but the rules force us to shoot wooden arrows! Hard to find matching wooden arrows for a 30 lbs bow, most are to heavy....
Good info, totally agree, i used 41 pounds longbow, its feel manaegable but not confortable, change for a 35 pounds recurve bow, so much better, enjoyable. Great videos.
I started with 55 pounds because the old dude at the shop I used to go to said 55 is the best you can hunt anything in north America. Well I think I'm ok in strength category and it used to wear on me after a while. That said I want to get a ilf rig with maybe 40-45 somewhere in there to try out sometime soon.
I've only recently started archery and I'm really loving it. I went though a very low poundage as I go though the first few and I'm planning on continuing to go up in poundage once I feel confortable with my last poundage and have some good form. But tried a 30 lbs longbow when I've been shooting a 22 lbs barebow, and I have to saw my form was awful. I was shaky but I was able to manage it. Since I know what I can manage, once I feel ready I might buy a 30 lbs bow and shoot that for a while.
Jim. Should I have different weights for hunting vs. 3d. When hunting is the best first arrow and 3d is 30 plus arrows
I started off with 20lb limbs on a Samick Sage. I took some flack for it too but that’s ok. I then shot 35lbs for awhile and now my preferred bow is a 43lb Colt Pioneer. I could not have started that heavy and learned good form but, now I can shoot into the high 40’s comfortably.
This sounds like a solid plan. I will be buying my bow soon.
I started at 36#, tbh could've started lower and it would have been more fun probably, but eventually got used to it. Anything over 30 sucks though if you want to shoot with your friends, a lot of them will struggle.
Good advice, thankyou
My friend recommended I get a 30 pound. I’m currently still shopping around, but my shoulders have a tendency to pull out of socket a bit so should I try for a 25?
I totally agree, I shoot a 50#@28" for hunting, and shoot 40#@28" for practice. Granted, my draw length is 30.5 inch, so I'm shooting more than the rated, but I'd always recommend you practice form and consistency with a lower poundage until you feel YOU are good enough for the higher poundage.
Great Video. I dropped from 42lb to 32lb after damaging my shoulder. I was over bowed and as I tried to clean up my technique the release was hammering my shoulder. I didn't have the control/strength to get the 42lb onto my back. With the covid restrictions last year my shoulder healed and I decided to not risk it again. My pile on is now 53yds instead of 70yds but my scores/enjoyment are going up.
Keep it up
Nice!
Loving You brake an arrow for light weight bows. I am still shooting my 28# Darton Classic recurve. Got it when I was 12 and still love shooting it for 3D (55 years old by now).
The joy of shooting a totally controled shot is so rewarding. No high poundage can compete with that.
Keep up the good work😉
If you hunt in the U.S every state has different poundage regulations. If you are only going to hunt your home state, see what the minimum is and go with it or a little more if it's 100% comfortable. Some states have no minimum, some at 30#, 35# 40#. It seems 40# will cover almost if not all states except on Elk, Moose.
Belgium, Luxemburg, Germany and France are also 40#
I completely agree. I have not shot for a few years. Took the 50# recurve out and I was not comfortable. Have a 35# hybrid coming this week. Get my form back to where I was.
Is that 'Black hunter longbow' on your right hand corner?
yep 😉
@@MerlinArchery Please a review of this bow, along with the recurve. It's such a regret that Grizzly Jim didn't give a review on this popular bow.
As an OAP I can shoot my 34# recurve an hour at a time and in that hour will shoot over 300 arrows if I put 40# limbs on the bow then it’s a completely different ball game, I really struggle to control the bow.
You’re absolutely spot on. My archery started at the age of 9 and was reasonably successful having been on the British Field Archery squad for 8 years. However, having been over bowed for much of the time when my joints were developing I suffered an injury to my bow arm elbow. The result was that just as I was coming into my prime I had to retire from archery. After 11 cortisone injections in my elbow it was just too painful to continue. I do still shoot a little but these days have to shoot compound to get around the injury that still bothers me now 36 years later.
Wow, yeah. Same can happen if you lift heavy weights while in early teens. Bodyweight excersises are the best, atleast until 21. Wish you as little pain as possible, not trying to sound smart, but try to eat alot of colagen. Should help with joints in general.
These tips are gold for beginning archers, but as an intermediate I have found that shooting a higher limit poundage comfortably will bypass form and release issues and the arrow will shoot straighter even when something went wrong during the release process.
you cant answer surly it is basic what can i pull back and hold without straining and i have shot maybe ten arrows on a bow years ago
I’m brand new to archery and still working out my ideal draw weight, my first bow was a cheap 70# horse bow, i nearly broke my back trying to pull it at first, i then got a 40# one and its great, im a pretty good shot too tbf, i love it so much i have now ordered a Samick sage at 30# and ANOTHER horse bow at 30# with an arrow rest, all cheap and cheerful whilst im experimenting with what suits me, i can now pull and shoot the 70# bow, yes im shaking a tad but i keep having a go here and there and slowly its getting better, im an instinctive shooter, i just look at what i want to hit and pull and release and hope for the best lol, absolutely love it, im 56 now and found my cupid 💘 hobby..!
Another Great video 🐻Jim
Can you please do a review of the Falco Force Vintage longbow?
What arrows are you using in your 30lb bow Also which bow is it
Depends on your draw length which dictates the arrow length which in turn affects the effective (aka dynamic) spine. Consult arrow charts from the arrow manufacturer to get a general idea of which spine (i.e. the spine rating marked on the shafts) to buy for your drawlenght. Actual arrow length is longer than draw length, due to safety reasons. Usually it is just in front of riser when at full draw, but some barebow and trad, as well as indoor shooters might like even longer arrows for different reasons. The arrow charts are based on actual arrow length which is from where the point meets the shaft to the nock position. One checks that one has correct spine through bareshaft tuning. But this is not so important when starting out. Get arrows that is in the ballpark through the arrow charts and then work on your form. When you group well, then you start to work with bareshaft tuning.
First timer should i get 28 or 30? Please someone answer. Im getting the 70. Thanks
im returning after 6 yrs off and previously i had 32lb on the fingers and couldnt believe how stiff it felt, so i bought 24lb limbs, cranked the tiller bolts all the way out, and with my draw length measured the poundage at 26.5lb which feels just about right to build my form back up without straining but putting enough on to allow me to build back up. remember you can adjust the poundage by 10%, (5% each way from the limb rating) so if im at 26lb now with min settings, i should be able to adjust the bow to get upto about 29lb by cranking the tiller bolts all the way in, before returning to my old limbs which will prob go upto 35lb. i'm no expert, but in a nutshell id say go low to start till you build your form and gradually increase by a lb or two over time. as they say, power is nothing without control. GL
I injured my shoulder a few years back so my bows are in the 35#-40# range.. Enough for leisure shoots.. Cheers! 😁
About 3 years ago, I had made the decision to have a hybrid longbow custom made. Having watched several of my fellow club members sidelined with shoulder injuries (and being no spring chicken myself), I decided to play it very safe by dropping my new bow to 40 lbs from the 50 I had been shooting. I have never regretted the decision. My control and accuracy are greatly increased and, since I am not a hunter, I really have no reason to miss the extra ten lbs.
Jim, I wondered if you could do some shooting glove reviews? I find the tips of my fingers get sore after an hour of shooting and I have dropped poundage towards the end of sessions because of it. I wondered if having a thicker glove with more reinforced tips may help with that? All the best to you stay safe.
I have changed to a glove and 3 under with neutral tiller, As I was doing that many arrows a day I was heading for injury. Merlin Archery do a good range of gloves like the Bearpaw etc. I did have to mentally concentrate on my release though, But within a couple of hours I got it smooth again.
I can play with 85#-90# bow bc I believe heavy draw weight bow with correct arrow can give damage more.. Even ur predecessors, English Longbowman believe it so if not why they risk themselves?? Low poundage is for training if you using it for hunting it will not kill quick.. There's country or state already give best poundage for said animal..
Jim you have a heart for archery keeping fun its not a job ? Right hahahalol.
Hi Jim. Liked your videos. I’m now using a WNS MOTIVE FX25 classified an intermediate riser and would like to upgrade. I’m now choosing between SANLIDA X 10 and TOPOINT UNISON RISER which are both affordable. Are they good choices or can I just stick to my old WNS MOTIVE FX25? Please help me decide
l had/have some release and draw issues and dropped from the 45# range to 35-40# to re-train myself. Keep up the good work!
Keep it up
First off thanks for all the videos. I started shooting at the beginning of the year. Your videos and a hand full of other RUclipsrs have been my online coach's which have helped me progress nicely through the the year. Shot my first tournament this last weekend shot terrible, but had a great time thanks. Would like to see a video on GPP. Like a lot of others I have questions on
1. Lower GPP ( with in bow makers specifications).
2. Higher GPP.
This would be for the people shooting Sub 40# bows at 3d and targets. I just started fiddling around with making my own arrows. Was wondering if a little heavier arrow would be more stable in flight.
Or if the lighter with flatter shooting might be the ticket.
I know allot of this is personal preference. But a little guidance helps. Thanks again.
My favourite bow is 30#
I need something that works for moose deer elk and target
What is that purpel bow i love it
Jim said it was a Mybo Wave which are listed on the Merlin website. Not cheap tho!
agreed. I'm more than happy with 30lbs
I was told in the shop to take bow, pull it to ancher for 10seconds. If that works without shaking and trembling, go up 5lbs and repeat. Once you get up to a poundage where the shaking starts after 10seconds, thats about the poundage you want.
@@kobbz1161 "shaking" or shaking? Olympic archers shake plenty. They don't convulse.
I think it's good to point out poundage also depends on what you want to do... But still remember to build up.
Hunting you need a certain depending on what your tracking etc
With Target and Clout you will need a certain level depending on your distance.
There's is a reasons no one is shooting a 20lb bow in the Olympics.
Jim, I agree with starting low and as you said even after you have been shooting for quite a while you don't need high poundage. It's to bad we didn't have that insight when we were younger. Hope all is well with you and yours thank you.
Stephen Hann where are you????
Good advice Jim . I used to think I was clever shooting my compound set at 60lb to get the the max speed out of my shorter draw length, big mistake, turned it down to 40lb and shot far far better. Was pulling it with my teeth though 😜👍
😬😉
Shot a 96# English longbow for fun but for good consistent shooting I go down to 50lbs for comps for a full 3d course 96# would kill me.
Great video again. I personely found that loss of arrow speed because of shooting lower poundage can also be corrected by changing your arrow setup. Different point weight or others fletchings. In my case maybe also changing wooden shafts.
That being said from a guy that shoots only wooden arrows.
The differences in all the types of wooden shafts is something I don't know a lot off.
I always use Cedar shafts.
Jim will u give a bow with free of cost to ur u tube subscriber
It’s highly unlikely 😅
At 74 years old my limit in bare bow is 42# @ 27", using carbon bamboo limbs. When I shoot to practice, I shoot for two hours at a time, 45 yards about 42 meters, and hitting tens, or kill zone on my 3D's, 4 days a week. But what I like to do is start at 25 yards, 20 yards, 15 yards, then work back up in distance, (instinctive) back to 25 yards, this is my variation for bow hunting here in Thailand. 45 yards I just try for target fun, would not take any hunting shot, past 30 yards, and that would be stretching it. Yes starting low poundage, to set technique first in concert first.
Common sense that is all about. Better to be in control your bow.
I don't feel manly if I don't shoot my 50 pounds bow! The shorter riser increased the poundage! Woo, yes, I'm a macho-man!
Jk but my 44# limbs got jacked up to 50# and I just shot without fixing anything and it became rather familiar now!
Wise words from a wise man...:P
People should train their strength, I found out that amongst the different sports out there, archers are amongst the laziest
In other sports, people also train their cardiovascularity by doing cardio specific exercices. Or they train their strength in the same way. They just don't only practise their main sport. With archers (especially modern archery) they don't do that at all
They don’t really need to though. If you’re a power lifter you need to keep strength training, but Any archer that can achieve a 40lb bow has already hit the Olympic number for most professionals in accuracy.
@@mrzisme my point being archers are among the laziest is still valid though
Tex can not only shoot a 100# Recurve, he can also shoot his own leg. Sorry Tex. It´s a classic. ;)
Great video as always, they always make me want to spend money at Merlin.
just sucks that Merlins customer service and support is beyond pathetic. Emails never responded to. Rude on the phone …… please change
I’ve had the complete opposite experience when dealing with Merlin, they always reply quickly to emails, sorted out warranty issues super fast, fast delivery, good advice, and have even taken the time to photograph goods for me to view during the lock down. I couldn’t ask for a better service!
You had me poundage Big Jim🍌