Great video, Jim. The beauty of trad archery is that if you're good at archery then you're probably good with a cheap bow. It's not necessary to get a custom bow to increase your accuracy or precision. It may look prettier, but at the end of the day it's just a stick and string.
Being a person who introduce archery to thousends of people, I get this question alot. I ask people a few questions to help them get an idea of what they want. First things first! What is your drawlength? Make sure the bow can handle your drawlength without going into stacking. What poundage can you handle? Don't buy more than you can handle. Budget? How much do you plan to spend? Do you want longevity of the bow? Some have 30 years warranty! Others have warranty for a year, or just around the corner.. Are you looking for top performance? Often the performance leads to shorter lifespan of the bow. Is beauty, a piece of art that you are looking for? You go through the questions and it helps to point people to a direction where they get a bow that makes them happy. That is my approach to helping people choosing. Cheers Bjarne
I used to shoot with a modern recurve years ago but due to injury had to give up. Really interested in re starting but with a trad bow. Looks much more fun and organic.
So true! We all have our own 🏹 journeys. I started with two traditional takedowns, one for right (Black Hunter!) and one for left-hand shooting (Spyder XL). Then, I discovered historical, traditional bows and found my passion. And, there are so many varieties with amazing bowyers around the world! Archery is a daily learning experience. Whatever your direction, choose what feels right to you and makes you happy. Be well, and keep shooting😊🙏🏼🫵😎🏹🙇🏻♂️
@@Robert-fx3ng Yes, I appreciate the challenge of shooting ambidextrously. It fits me, and it is fun! It is a mindful and physically balancing experience.
@@ambidextrousarchery I am brand new to archery and do some things right handed and others left. I too get into a challenge. I have a a Black hunter with a second on the way to try something similar to what you have done. Are you still using two different bows or is there something that shoots ambidextrous you like? I am 6’4” and a bit worried about draw length and stacking.
@@Robert-fx3ng What a fantastic time to begin archery! There are many varieties of styles and bows from around the world that use various draw lengths and techniques. The Black Hunter bows are a great choice to begin learning, especially if you are pursuing what practitioners often call traditional archery. I do not currently own a trad bow, but I use Arc Rolan Snake 60 and 50 twin bows to teach kids and new archers. I fell for historic and Asiatic bow styles that usually do not have risers and can easily be shot from either hand. I show much of my learning journey in my vlog, and there are some super channels you can check out to explore styles that may interest you.
You're right Jim. Price and poundage narrow the field, also purpose - target/3D/whatever. Then find a shop that lets you try them out - without a hard sell. I was lucky and found such a place by chance. I knew nothing, I now realise, and was given impartial advice. Like running shoes or hiking boots, try before you buy!
Very good video Jim. I too like a Striker bow and have had one since 2016. Because of injury I had to switch from right handed shooting to left handed shooting and it was Rick Ellis, of Striker, that helped me with that decision. Because of that I ended up buying one of his Classic longbows. But before I did, I purchased a cheep left handed bow to see if I was really going to be able to make the switch. Once I knew I could, I ordered the Classic from Rick. They are a great company and great guys at Striker. You are right in that price, situation, and poundage all figure into purchasing not only your first trad bow, but any trad bow.
I like the takedown option so my first recurve was a Martin Saber. Then discovered ilf and ended up with a Hoyt Satori which I've been shooting for almost 5 years now.
Three years ago you helped me choose my first traditional bow, a choice between Bear or Striker, after talking with you I chose Striker sport I use this bow to this day I know it was a good choice. Many Thanks
I learned by buying cheap. First bow i got was a samick sage and it taught me that I didn’t like takedown bows. Then i bought a vintage BP colt and it taught me that I didn’t like big heavy recurves. Then i bought a galaxy black ridge and it taught me that i love hybrid bows. I still have the sage as a bow fishing rig, and i sold the colt for what i bought it for. Now that i know what i like, i can spend big on a type/style of bow i love.
I bought a 55.00 takedown 30,lb recurve (d and q archery). Wasn't sure if I would enjoy it or not so cheapest way made sense. Getting a bit of proficiency before thinking of investing in a more expensive bow.
If Coming from Compound there are models that are going to feel more like a compound in the grip/handle and ones like most metal riser ILF Bow risers (often limbs for ILF are sold separately) you can modify to be more like compound by removing the grip/handle part and using a little bit of grip tape or cloth tape so the vibration is not going through the hand. The target ILF and even most dual shoot off the shelf/target can even take a traditional drop-away rest that can feel similar to a compound drop-away rest. The models of wood riser that are close to a compound grip are the universal medium to deep notch grip with flat front or the to the bows besides the metal ILF riser modified as I already said. Another close some of the primitive design Longbows have is the Rounded grip some older designs of flat limb longbow that yes you can find some models with an actual shelf, have like from Grayvn Archery. Then are some bows like Martin uses an old compound design riser from late 1980's early 1990's in one or two models, then PSE has a bow fishing model, AMS has a model of Bowfishing bow, and Cajun one of the two recurve bowfishing models will be close to a compound especially in design of the riser. Finally, Striker RK1 is a model with a longbow and recurve option that has an exact clone to that of most compound designs in the grip. These are in the styles closest to a slim longbow grip that are more common designs.
Ya I over stretched... but then I got a deal on it , a bit less than half price. But I don't think I'm shooting up to the quality of the bow. But I'm loving it.
Rather niche answer, 40# 48 inch Ragim taiga custom. Does need to be shot 3 under or use a tab with a spacer. Shooting off a cut down Hoyt super rest. Light, & fast enough for me.
I would buy a ILF wooden riser . There are now plenty of them now . And 30 or 35 lbs limbs .You could find other limbs in no time if you want to increase the poundage .
I have shot many different brands of bows. Bear browning Damon howett (good bow) now I shoot a black wolf by win win. Best bow I have ever used. As I get older draw weight goes down 45 to 50
This is a really hard question. And strangely enough, even though I'm not a pro like you, I've been asked that question a few times. I think it's a question of point of view. Especially with traditional bows. For me, it's a bow that will feel good in my hands. It won't have a big hand shock and I won't have a problem with the stack - since my draw is long, I had a 64" bow and should have a custom 66" piece finished this week. Of course, there are technical aspects that cannot be overlooked. The strength of the draw, the material, for some of us the look of the bow, the appropriate bowstring and last but not least the right arrows. But I would say that with traditional bows it's more about feelings than technical aspects, like with Olympic bows. Of course, some may see it differently. But that's the thing, we are all different and we all do things in our own way. 😎
Bearpaw has a 30 year warranty that is nice. But a junxing blackhunter or an junxing 261 ilf bow is very accurate and you don't need to spend a lot of money for a good bow
i ordered a sanlida royal x8 the other day! everyone keeps saying its a spectacular bow for the package and money. 130 bucks for the bow and arrows and glove etc etc etc. if i dig it, im going to get a 3 rivers oberon or the new NYX 3k carbon recurve next. i just wanted to get a cheap one to see how i felt about traditional before dumping 400 bucks on it
Gonna make a big effort to get back into shooting on the regular again and upgrade my 25lb starter bow (which I've had a ton of fun with) for a 50-60lb sammick sage sometime next year if all goes well!
Finding the right bow for me was an expensive process. I have tried a few but in order for me to try I had to first buy. It's the down side to being in an area where trad equipment and trad shooters are in very short supply. I tried a few glass over wood bows but they didn't fit. The look was fantastic the grips for me were not as nice. I ended on an ilf since it gave me the versatility to change the bow without having to replace the bow. It isn't perfect but it's the best I have come across so far for me. One day I may be able to give a nice custom a go but for now I am where I am at
I've been there. I had a high poundage recurve that was a custom & takedown from my younger years. When I started to invest again I still had the feeling of that custom grip in my head. So I found that grip on a quality riser & then I started buying ILF limbs to put into that ILF Riser. It really is interesting how different a bow will shoot an arrow with a different style of limb. Bare shaft shooting really tells u alot about what arrow is right for your setup. Out of 3 sets of limbs I have one for practicing & another which would be for 3D target or hunting. By shooting a different lighter poundage limb of 5 to 7 lbs less from what u r building up with for practice it really makes u a better shooter with better form. That's more than half the battle right there.
i bought a black hawk flat bow or whatever it's called, only 30 pounds but it has been perfect for me and it has lasted for the past i dunno 10 ish years
This post made me laugh as one bow came to mind as soon as I saw it and here it comes … Incoming bear fan boy lol my bear grizzly in 35lb for the money she’s just a beauty and one of the best bows out there for the money imo . Smooth , whisper quiet , forgiving with looks and great history behind it . She’s called the working man’s bow and that’s what she is , a real little work horse of a bow at a great price . In the time I’ve been shooting I’ve brought around 10 plus bows , I’ve the whole striker range tried a good few bodniks / bear paws . I’ve done exactly what you’ve said on this video and over bowed my self and recently I’ve dropped poundage and gone back to my good old faithful 35lb grizzly and I’ve fallen in love with her again just like when I first brought her as my first bow . She’s obviously not as good as my strikers but for the money you can’t go wrong , she still blows my mind how good of a bow she is for such a old design and great price .
The most important advice coming from me would be: Don't buy a bow too early. What I mean by that is that you will make immense progress in the first few months up to a year of regular training and if you purchase a bow too early you might outgrow it and - as Jim said - lose money when reselling it. This is especially true for one-piece bows. Keeping in mind, that you should be - if anything - underbowed a bit when starting out you will quickly work your way up and then you can be a teensy bit overbowed on the first bow you actually want to get. Some archery shops offer wonderful rental programs, which will also make you realize whether archery is something you're in for the long run. This was the case for me where a shop ran this rental program in half-year increments where up to a year of rental cost would be calculated as a discount for your first purchase.
I’d be interested to see the bow you initially spec’d with Striker. Even if they made you a one off or something. Just to see what you came up with without limits lol! And ‘shaking like a pooping dog’ gonna start using that one!
May I ask what type of mistakes would a person develop if they were using a bow with too high poundage? You mentioned that they can become bad habits. What have you noticed the bad habits are for too high poundage bow use?
I am really a fan of this videos and couldn't agree more with the content...Jim you sting is perfect after years, I almost wish it loose the edge but is doesn't, how close you can get to perfection these days?!PS.the sticker gets all the attention at the airports:)
I don't know what I want I'm so out of touch. I shot an ambidextrous fiberglass long bow when I was a kid/teen. Oh and those words yall probably hate. I'm a lefty
It means that you can have more inconsistency in your form and/or release and still take decent shot. Some bows wont let you get away with a bad release or inconsistent form. Any variation and your shot will be off significantly
I was looking at your Grizzly Jim Striker Bow. Can you give your thoughts on the longbow vs recurve limb options? I normally shoot with a takedown recurve and wondering what differences I'd see with a takedown longbow.
I’ve got the striker rk1 longbow and the striker sport take down recurve . For me the longbow seems smoother , more forgiving and more silent but me personally I prefer the grip of recurve . Now after owning the two I wish I’d got a take down long bow with the traditional type handle as for me the grips a lot more repeatable , I’ve got the one piece striker sport longbow as well , and while I love that my rk1 is ALOT smoother and ALOT more silent
You're over thinking this. First bow... I want the cheapest bow possible that shoots straight. After that 2nd bow... I want the cheapest bow that draws smooth, shoots straight and lasts, 3rd bow I want a bow that people on their first and second bow wish they could afford.
This question I am sure is asked but man there isn’t a clear answer. Recurve or long bow , one piece or take down, price etc… my advice is buy a used bow that you can learn on then once you have the fundamentals down you will develop preferences then go looking. Even at that you will most likely try different things. My way was buying vintage bows off of EBay. I have no regrets and yes I hope to get a personal one made for me one day
i bought the bow I wanted but did not get the limbs that were advertised with it the limbs are ok but felt I got conned on the deal so would never order a bow online again it was a bosen horn bow paid £250 and got a bow that was only worth about £180 contacted them and got no answer
I still do! I absolutely love the heritage and Fred bear is one of my heroes. But unfortunately a few years back there was a pretty big dip in quality. But they will always be very dear to my heart.
My problem always is, "what are my options?" More so than "what is the best". Not always as easy as a quick google when you're into such a niche market.
Basically if you can lift 30kg you can shoot a 60lbs bow 30kg=66lbs. Find the cheapest arrows you can find they are all pretty much the same. Make shure to dry fire the bow when you get it to dry out the limbs and prevent bow worm eggs developing. Dry fireing allso helps dry the glue in the laminated limbs. Honestly dont bother with a club just practice at the park
Great video, Jim. The beauty of trad archery is that if you're good at archery then you're probably good with a cheap bow. It's not necessary to get a custom bow to increase your accuracy or precision. It may look prettier, but at the end of the day it's just a stick and string.
Being a person who introduce archery to thousends of people, I get this question alot.
I ask people a few questions to help them get an idea of what they want.
First things first! What is your drawlength? Make sure the bow can handle your drawlength without going into stacking.
What poundage can you handle? Don't buy more than you can handle.
Budget? How much do you plan to spend?
Do you want longevity of the bow? Some have 30 years warranty! Others have warranty for a year, or just around the corner..
Are you looking for top performance? Often the performance leads to shorter lifespan of the bow.
Is beauty, a piece of art that you are looking for?
You go through the questions and it helps to point people to a direction where they get a bow that makes them happy.
That is my approach to helping people choosing.
Cheers Bjarne
Heck yeah. What a way to start the day. 5am here
You answered the question without directly answering the question! lots of sage advise in this one.
What should you buy as your firs bow ? Does not matter, you'll miss with every bow there is :-)
Fyi i searched good beginning bows for adults got a bunch of crap. Got recommend this. Best video ive seen yet.
I used to shoot with a modern recurve years ago but due to injury had to give up. Really interested in re starting but with a trad bow. Looks much more fun and organic.
So true! We all have our own 🏹 journeys. I started with two traditional takedowns, one for right (Black Hunter!) and one for left-hand shooting (Spyder XL). Then, I discovered historical, traditional bows and found my passion. And, there are so many varieties with amazing bowyers around the world! Archery is a daily learning experience. Whatever your direction, choose what feels right to you and makes you happy. Be well, and keep shooting😊🙏🏼🫵😎🏹🙇🏻♂️
How did you choose right vs left handed? Do you shoot both way still.
@@Robert-fx3ng Yes, I appreciate the challenge of shooting ambidextrously. It fits me, and it is fun! It is a mindful and physically balancing experience.
@@ambidextrousarchery I am brand new to archery and do some things right handed and others left. I too get into a challenge. I have a a Black hunter with a second on the way to try something similar to what you have done. Are you still using two different bows or is there something that shoots ambidextrous you like? I am 6’4” and a bit worried about draw length and stacking.
@@Robert-fx3ng What a fantastic time to begin archery! There are many varieties of styles and bows from around the world that use various draw lengths and techniques. The Black Hunter bows are a great choice to begin learning, especially if you are pursuing what practitioners often call traditional archery. I do not currently own a trad bow, but I use Arc Rolan Snake 60 and 50 twin bows to teach kids and new archers. I fell for historic and Asiatic bow styles that usually do not have risers and can easily be shot from either hand. I show much of my learning journey in my vlog, and there are some super channels you can check out to explore styles that may interest you.
This is better advertising for your signature series than any direct add could ever be.
You're right Jim. Price and poundage narrow the field, also purpose - target/3D/whatever. Then find a shop that lets you try them out - without a hard sell. I was lucky and found such a place by chance. I knew nothing, I now realise, and was given impartial advice. Like running shoes or hiking boots, try before you buy!
Very good video Jim. I too like a Striker bow and have had one since 2016. Because of injury I had to switch from right handed shooting to left handed shooting and it was Rick Ellis, of Striker, that helped me with that decision. Because of that I ended up buying one of his Classic longbows. But before I did, I purchased a cheep left handed bow to see if I was really going to be able to make the switch. Once I knew I could, I ordered the Classic from Rick. They are a great company and great guys at Striker. You are right in that price, situation, and poundage all figure into purchasing not only your first trad bow, but any trad bow.
My bow was a gift to me some years ago. It's an antique 1964 Ben Pearson Filly 702, 60" 35# and I can shoot it for hours on end.
Thanks for fueling my archery passion Jim.
Good video mate i started cheap with a samick sage clone. Now im shooting a great plains model b that transformed how i shoot
Wonderful video, love your commentary in Italy btw. Thanks for your amazing hybrid strings. Best regards from Sweden. You ledgend you.
I rock the Samick Sage 😁
I like the takedown option so my first recurve was a Martin Saber. Then discovered ilf and ended up with a Hoyt Satori which I've been shooting for almost 5 years now.
Three years ago you helped me choose my first traditional bow, a choice between Bear or Striker, after talking with you I chose Striker sport I use this bow to this day I know it was a good choice. Many Thanks
I did buy a grizzly jim signature series and I love it. ❤️
🥰
I learned by buying cheap. First bow i got was a samick sage and it taught me that I didn’t like takedown bows. Then i bought a vintage BP colt and it taught me that I didn’t like big heavy recurves. Then i bought a galaxy black ridge and it taught me that i love hybrid bows.
I still have the sage as a bow fishing rig, and i sold the colt for what i bought it for. Now that i know what i like, i can spend big on a type/style of bow i love.
I bought a 55.00 takedown 30,lb recurve (d and q archery). Wasn't sure if I would enjoy it or not so cheapest way made sense. Getting a bit of proficiency before thinking of investing in a more expensive bow.
If Coming from Compound there are models that are going to feel more like a compound in the grip/handle and ones like most metal riser ILF Bow risers (often limbs for ILF are sold separately) you can modify to be more like compound by removing the grip/handle part and using a little bit of grip tape or cloth tape so the vibration is not going through the hand. The target ILF and even most dual shoot off the shelf/target can even take a traditional drop-away rest that can feel similar to a compound drop-away rest. The models of wood riser that are close to a compound grip are the universal medium to deep notch grip with flat front or the to the bows besides the metal ILF riser modified as I already said. Another close some of the primitive design Longbows have is the Rounded grip some older designs of flat limb longbow that yes you can find some models with an actual shelf, have like from Grayvn Archery. Then are some bows like Martin uses an old compound design riser from late 1980's early 1990's in one or two models, then PSE has a bow fishing model, AMS has a model of Bowfishing bow, and Cajun one of the two recurve bowfishing models will be close to a compound especially in design of the riser. Finally, Striker RK1 is a model with a longbow and recurve option that has an exact clone to that of most compound designs in the grip. These are in the styles closest to a slim longbow grip that are more common designs.
Ya I over stretched... but then I got a deal on it , a bit less than half price. But I don't think I'm shooting up to the quality of the bow. But I'm loving it.
Rather niche answer, 40# 48 inch Ragim taiga custom. Does need to be shot 3 under or use a tab with a spacer. Shooting off a cut down Hoyt super rest. Light, & fast enough for me.
I would buy a ILF wooden riser . There are now plenty of them now . And 30 or 35 lbs limbs .You could find other limbs in no time if you want to increase the poundage .
I have the answer Jim.... get all of them!😉
😅 Right!?! So many amazing bows!!!
I have shot many different brands of bows. Bear browning Damon howett (good bow) now I shoot a black wolf by win win. Best bow I have ever used. As I get older draw weight goes down 45 to 50
This is a really hard question. And strangely enough, even though I'm not a pro like you, I've been asked that question a few times. I think it's a question of point of view. Especially with traditional bows. For me, it's a bow that will feel good in my hands. It won't have a big hand shock and I won't have a problem with the stack - since my draw is long, I had a 64" bow and should have a custom 66" piece finished this week. Of course, there are technical aspects that cannot be overlooked. The strength of the draw, the material, for some of us the look of the bow, the appropriate bowstring and last but not least the right arrows. But I would say that with traditional bows it's more about feelings than technical aspects, like with Olympic bows. Of course, some may see it differently. But that's the thing, we are all different and we all do things in our own way. 😎
Bearpaw has a 30 year warranty that is nice. But a junxing blackhunter or an junxing 261 ilf bow is very accurate and you don't need to spend a lot of money for a good bow
i ordered a sanlida royal x8 the other day! everyone keeps saying its a spectacular bow for the package and money. 130 bucks for the bow and arrows and glove etc etc etc. if i dig it, im going to get a 3 rivers oberon or the new NYX 3k carbon recurve next. i just wanted to get a cheap one to see how i felt about traditional before dumping 400 bucks on it
Gonna make a big effort to get back into shooting on the regular again and upgrade my 25lb starter bow (which I've had a ton of fun with) for a 50-60lb sammick sage sometime next year if all goes well!
The bow you sold to Nu Sensei, that was a rocking horse shit rare sale.
Finding the right bow for me was an expensive process. I have tried a few but in order for me to try I had to first buy. It's the down side to being in an area where trad equipment and trad shooters are in very short supply. I tried a few glass over wood bows but they didn't fit. The look was fantastic the grips for me were not as nice. I ended on an ilf since it gave me the versatility to change the bow without having to replace the bow. It isn't perfect but it's the best I have come across so far for me. One day I may be able to give a nice custom a go but for now I am where I am at
I've been there. I had a high poundage recurve that was a custom & takedown from my younger years. When I started to invest again I still had the feeling of that custom grip in my head. So I found that grip on a quality riser & then I started buying ILF limbs to put into that ILF Riser. It really is interesting how different a bow will shoot an arrow with a different style of limb. Bare shaft shooting really tells u alot about what arrow is right for your setup. Out of 3 sets of limbs I have one for practicing & another which would be for 3D target or hunting. By shooting a different lighter poundage limb of 5 to 7 lbs less from what u r building up with for practice it really makes u a better shooter with better form. That's more than half the battle right there.
i bought a black hawk flat bow or whatever it's called, only 30 pounds but it has been perfect for me and it has lasted for the past i dunno 10 ish years
This post made me laugh as one bow came to mind as soon as I saw it and here it comes … Incoming bear fan boy lol my bear grizzly in 35lb for the money she’s just a beauty and one of the best bows out there for the money imo . Smooth , whisper quiet , forgiving with looks and great history behind it . She’s called the working man’s bow and that’s what she is , a real little work horse of a bow at a great price . In the time I’ve been shooting I’ve brought around 10 plus bows , I’ve the whole striker range tried a good few bodniks / bear paws . I’ve done exactly what you’ve said on this video and over bowed my self and recently I’ve dropped poundage and gone back to my good old faithful 35lb grizzly and I’ve fallen in love with her again just like when I first brought her as my first bow . She’s obviously not as good as my strikers but for the money you can’t go wrong , she still blows my mind how good of a bow she is for such a old design and great price .
The most important advice coming from me would be: Don't buy a bow too early.
What I mean by that is that you will make immense progress in the first few months up to a year of regular training and if you purchase a bow too early you might outgrow it and - as Jim said - lose money when reselling it. This is especially true for one-piece bows. Keeping in mind, that you should be - if anything - underbowed a bit when starting out you will quickly work your way up and then you can be a teensy bit overbowed on the first bow you actually want to get.
Some archery shops offer wonderful rental programs, which will also make you realize whether archery is something you're in for the long run. This was the case for me where a shop ran this rental program in half-year increments where up to a year of rental cost would be calculated as a discount for your first purchase.
I got a bear grizzly I'm wanting to try a longbow next
I’d be interested to see the bow you initially spec’d with Striker. Even if they made you a one off or something. Just to see what you came up with without limits lol! And ‘shaking like a pooping dog’ gonna start using that one!
Grizzly Jim Signature RK-1?
Funny you should say that 😏
@@ArcheryAdventures RUclips won't let me give enough 👍👍👍👍 on this comment!
Black Swan static recurve 50-60# mid riser,😍😍😍
I've never met an archer yet that doesn't think the Black Hunter is a GREAT bow for the money (£125) !!!
I LOVE mine (#30).
I just gave my Black Hunter away as a prize. A really fun beginner and training bow.
May I ask what type of mistakes would a person develop if they were using a bow with too high poundage? You mentioned that they can become bad habits. What have you noticed the bad habits are for too high poundage bow use?
I am really a fan of this videos and couldn't agree more with the content...Jim you sting is perfect after years, I almost wish it loose the edge but is doesn't, how close you can get to perfection these days?!PS.the sticker gets all the attention at the airports:)
I haven't shot in 30 years. Im thinking i want a samik or a pse, good bad indifferent? Suggestions?
I don't know what I want I'm so out of touch. I shot an ambidextrous fiberglass long bow when I was a kid/teen. Oh and those words yall probably hate. I'm a lefty
what do experienced archers mean , when they say ' less forgiving and/or more forgiving '
It means that you can have more inconsistency in your form and/or release and still take decent shot. Some bows wont let you get away with a bad release or inconsistent form. Any variation and your shot will be off significantly
I was looking at your Grizzly Jim Striker Bow. Can you give your thoughts on the longbow vs recurve limb options? I normally shoot with a takedown recurve and wondering what differences I'd see with a takedown longbow.
I’ve got the striker rk1 longbow and the striker sport take down recurve . For me the longbow seems smoother , more forgiving and more silent but me personally I prefer the grip of recurve . Now after owning the two I wish I’d got a take down long bow with the traditional type handle as for me the grips a lot more repeatable , I’ve got the one piece striker sport longbow as well , and while I love that my rk1 is ALOT smoother and ALOT more silent
You're over thinking this. First bow... I want the cheapest bow possible that shoots straight.
After that 2nd bow... I want the cheapest bow that draws smooth, shoots straight and lasts, 3rd bow I want a bow that people on their first and second bow wish they could afford.
Kassai's trad bows Are the best.
This question I am sure is asked but man there isn’t a clear answer. Recurve or long bow , one piece or take down, price etc… my advice is buy a used bow that you can learn on then once you have the fundamentals down you will develop preferences then go looking. Even at that you will most likely try different things. My way was buying vintage bows off of EBay. I have no regrets and yes I hope to get a personal one made for me one day
i bought the bow I wanted but did not get the limbs that were advertised with it the limbs are ok but felt I got conned on the deal so would never order a bow online again it was a bosen horn bow paid £250 and got a bow that was only worth about £180 contacted them and got no answer
You use to love 💕 Baer bows. What happened?
I still do! I absolutely love the heritage and Fred bear is one of my heroes.
But unfortunately a few years back there was a pretty big dip in quality. But they will always be very dear to my heart.
But they are all beautiful
My problem always is, "what are my options?" More so than "what is the best". Not always as easy as a quick google when you're into such a niche market.
👏👏👏👏
You still alive m8 no bows for ale on your web site ?
Traditional arches never die…
What everyone needs is a KG Osprey
disagreement of your mother, your wife, the kids, and sometimes.....the bank employee !
A striker or bear Montana......I know a guys who's selling one....
😏
Basically if you can lift 30kg you can shoot a 60lbs bow 30kg=66lbs.
Find the cheapest arrows you can find they are all pretty much the same. Make shure to dry fire the bow when you get it to dry out the limbs and prevent bow worm eggs developing. Dry fireing allso helps dry the glue in the laminated limbs. Honestly dont bother with a club just practice at the park
😅🤣