Genuine vs Fake Hakko Soldering Iron Tips
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- Опубликовано: 13 июл 2019
- In this video I take a look at the differences between genuine Hakko soldering iron tips and the cheap knockoffs of the tips that are available on sites like Amazon and eBay.
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Do yourself a favor when tinning and don’t try to melt solder by getting the wire hot. Instead, flux the wire generously with liquid or paste flux, then melt a glob of solder onto the iron tip and apply to the wire. The flux in the wire will suck the solder into the wire and it will tin almost instantly. So fast that there’s no time to melt insulation.
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The genuine tips make more sense on the cheaper irons because they have a lower wattage and slower recovery time so need all the help they can get on something like that 10ga wire. Note that some people have found that their generic/fake tips, had a little larger inner diameter and that they achieved better thermal performance by adding a wrap of aluminum foil between the element and the tip. Others did not find enough diameter difference to bother with it.
Just buy a high frequency iron, they have cheap tips that actually work. Instead of a heating element they use a coil with 32v 400khz AC to heat the tip by induction and a temp probe that inserts into the back of the tip. You can get a 120w station for around $130 that will solder 6 AWG wire with ease. Xytronic units like the LF-3200 are good quality unit Quick and Atten are Cheaper but also lower quality. The Quick tips are very good though and they offer some tips that Xytronic doesn't.
in case it helps any metrics 690*F~365*C and 660*F-350*C
Funny. "The tips are nearly the same, no big difference, but I will continue using the geniune tips because I can afford them. And you with your cheap soldering stations continue use yours" :D
On the flip side, I have a friend who bought some of these cheap tips... and they were deplating themselves from the first use.
Yes, the plating is the main quality improvement with a real Hakko tip. Hakko actually sacrifices a bit of thermal performance (thicker plating is less conductive) to gain their legendary durability. I'm personally a fan of this tradeoff, as running my iron a tiny bit warmer isn't a big deal. It's usually only 10C or less, small difference kind of thing.
What's going to be the standard size/shape tip for general use? The FX951 on Amazon that comes with one tip uses a D16, but the bundle that comes with 5 tips comes with D08, D12, D24, D32 and D52. I believe I read that the FX888D uses a D16 by default.
I think my old workplace used a D24 for soldering 22AWG stranded wire together but I can't really remember if it was that big, or if it just looked that big while tinned. Or would you even recommend going up to a D32?
Which two or three chisel tips would you recommend? I was thinking the D12, D16, and D24. I'll probably only play around with computer keyboard PCBs, RC cars, and electric guitar wiring. Do you think a D08 is too small? Thanks!
Good question. I actually have that exact bundle of tips plus the next size up (T18-S3). The D24 is what I normally use to do thin wire (like 22AWG). For 16AWG or above I generally step up to the D32. For through hole PCB work I use the D24 tip if I can get away with it. If I have to work in a tight spot on the PCB I will drop down to the D16. For surface mount PCB work I usually use the D16, but for really fine work I will use the D12. I've only used the D08 a few times. It's basically a conical tip. It isn't really good for much except for extraordinarily fine SMD work. The S3 tip would be equivalent to a D48 or D50 if it used the same naming scheme as the rest of them. It's useful for soldering 10AWG wire or soldering say 3 or 4 12AWG wires together.
My tip selection methodology pretty much boils down to selecting the biggest tip I can get away with for the work I am doing. If I had to pick 3, I would would go D16, D24 and D32. This is especially true if you aren't going to be doing any SMD work on your PCBs.
@@Eman2000 thank you so much for your suggestions!
Chisel tip. Match it to the pad size. Junk the conical tips. Maybe a bevel if you really need lots of heat transfer on a wide pad
Hi there could u please give me some guide here, my iron tip rolls a bit seems like it's a bit smaller, I bought an American Hakko Soldering Iron Tip T18-I Conical Shape R0.2 x 14.5 mm is that ok for 900M iron?
The Hakko FX-888D uses T18 series tips not 900M type tips, there is a difference, you can buy off brand T18 tips they are thicker than 900m tips and perform better.
Idk if its because I am not taking care of my soldering iron tips but...The fake 1s (I know they fake) they burn out so fast...ugh
I have the Fx888D soldering iron station. Great soldering iron station it's been working perfect for long time I have used both tips genuine and copies and from experience I can tell you that the genuine Our Father best they lost a lot longer you get a better soldering job done and the material is designed properly to couple around the ceramic element and it doesn't have play the cheap ones tend to have a bigger gap which is not good you will make your element work a lot harder. Then again I'm not saying all the cheap tips about maybe there are some very good ones but I haven't come across one yet. So for the meantime I always order the genuine tips and they are quite robust I have put them through the pace and they are very difficult to wear unless you butcher them.
I call the fake ones fakos and tend to agree they are good enough for most applications
the most important thing about soldering tips is how fast they get oxidized , when it turns black and not transferring heat properly , the fake ones is obviosly very fast to turn black and you will notice its not melting solder any more , but genuine ones usually can handle much higher temperatures without getting oxidized and turn black , but to be fair i should note that not all fake ones are equal in quality , i used some fake ones before that performs quite descent , you just shouldnt go too cheap , you will surely get the worst quality
I heard you say you paid $6 for genuine tips, I just looked and can't find them for under $12...digikey wanted $18 for T19 oned
Try hakko USA’s website. I paid about $6 per tip.
why nobody use thermal grease to fill the gap???
I was wondering that myself.
thanks for the video. can I know why my soldering tip will be oxidized within a miniute no matter how I clean it ? really jealous on those youtuber doing a long long video and their soldering tip still so shiny and perfect. really cofused. I watch tip clean video it took so much effort to restore an oxidized tip but it take me only 1 Minute to destroy it. so frustrating.
Consider lowering your temperature if you can. Keep your tip clean. It's not uncommon for a tip to start looking bad after a minute or too. It's good practice to wipe the tip in brass wool or a wet sponge every time you take the iron out of the stand. When you put the iron away its important to put a layer of solder over the tip. This protects it when its not in use.
I used Antex C18 soldering irons for years, the iron plated tips held up way better then the nickel plated ones but on both types the body of the tip deteriorated and failed, until I got some genuine English made tips not the garbage one the M.M.Newman sells, the genuine Antex ones last forever I never had to replace one,the iron always burned out before the tip failed, the Antex stuff has gotten so expensive the I now use the Chinese knock off irons that take the Hakko style tips, and so far I'm pleased with them and they're priced fairly.
My experience mirrors yours. Fake tips are ok but don't seem to transfer heat as well.
4:15 The tip is made with a dip in the middle for dragging across wires. Some bevel tips are also made that way intentionally
The thing about the 937D, et al., is that the tips for them suck. I never had an issue with my old RS 40W iron, or its tips, until I went to use it one day and 30 years of usage I guess the ceramic heater finally broke as there is no resistance to it. I had to buy something but not happy with the tips. I brought up about the tips and many people have the same issue where it starts to pit (quickly too) and eats away no matter what you do. I tin mine as a ritual, but doesn't matter, so I think it is because the copper they use is too thin and/or of inferior quality. I know the Chinese "copper wire" has always sucked for me so that must be it.
@ 8:52 Hakko tip vs Fakko (Fake-oh) tip , i love it ;-]
I would say if you need the performance, buy genuine tips. The air gaps in genuine tips is much smaller, the end result is that the thermal resistance from heating core to the tip end is 3 times smaller. The genuine tips can bring a third party soldering station or iron performs very close to the genuine Hakko soldering station, really worth the money. Of course, if there is a third party tips can close those air gaps inside, the performance difference would disappear also. But I have not found one cheaper third party tip that good yet.
how about t12 tips have u tried ? I suspect fake iron using genuine tip will have same performance
@@UncleF115 I tried fake T12 Tip, mostly the performance are the same. But there is still difference on different soldering irons. The heating coil on genuine T12 is slightly further away from thermal couple sensing the temperature. This requires different tuning to reach optimum temperature control on soldering iron controller.
Soldering irons in the future: A tip that has a very tiny sensor in it, that knows the date you purchased it, and if its legit. And if not, the iron will not work. HP comes to mind.
You can tell right from the fuse test the real tip is way better, I know because the cheap one acted like my iron always has😂 I'm watching this to see if I need real tips on my cheap station and the answer is yes I do
The cheap kit seems like a good value, but you're better off with a single genuine small chisel or bevel tip for $6-7 than a variety of trash, most of which you won't use, for $10-15
FYI Hakko is pronounced hahk-koh rather than hey-koh. If you understand IPA then it is [hakko:]. It means "white light".
Anybody making or have knowledge of Solder bit manufacturing process ??
why woud hakko give that many tips anyways
Уважаемый человек, для начала, научитесь правильно паять.
I wold give a dislike for this video... you need different tips to solder electronics not wires, .... tip precision, and solder watering is important for precision soldering....