Hi Ron, I’v never thought that I would ever have to use a solder iron, however as a musician I do pay a guitar tech to do maintenance when needed on my guitars, it’s not cheap. After watching your video you have given me the confidence to start learning to solder. Thanks for your tutorial on maintenance of the solder iron, that’s what I call starting from the beginning. Subscribed 👍🏻👍🏻
Ron, I started Soldering with Silver solder and an Acetylene Torch, soldering pieces of Copper together. I did this fresh out of High School. This was my Job just after graduation at my Fathers Stampings company. Not anything to do with the small electronics soldering we do now. My Dad worked with me when I first started doing this job and he told me the most important thing to know about soldering is that solder flows to the heat! This information has always helped me to do a good job in soldering. Knowing that it is the heat that does the work!
I recently replaced my old soldering iron with a new one and coincidentally came across your video. I'm glad I watched it before using my new soldering iron. After following your advice, my new soldering iron still looks brand new, unlike my first one after its initial use. Thanks for making this very useful video!
Thank you ,im a beginner,and no one tells you to tin the soldering iron tips,,,i just cleaned with soldering tip tinning and then flux, and the brass wool, now when it cools i will tin before hand, very good tips and advice ,Very Much appreciated
I am so glad that you produced this video. I have had many times tried to determine the reason why my soldering task always had a hard time melting solder in order to establish a connection to my track. Immediately following your video, I went and carried out the cleaning of my soldering iron, and yes it was black. It now is super shiny! THX
You will enjoy using that clean and tinned soldering iron much more. Let me know how that works next time you use it. I think the difference will seem almost miraculous.
Thank you Ron for reminding me of things I knew but had foregotten over the years. As my horoscope tells me I' ve got a lot of soldering on my horizon. I needed this video. Cheers, Chris Perry.
Thanks. Purchased all the bits you recommended and I've just spent several hours happily soldering away. Great results and a soldering iron stored away ready for the next time. Great video. Much appreciated.
Wow... I don't know the first thing about soldering but "know enough" to know that "oxidation is bad". I had no idea at all that oxidation itself was such a terrible conductor of heat. Great demo!! and thanks.
Hey Ron! I was the kid you met at National last (2018) year! Just wanted to say that you have inspired me to start a channel, it launched 2 weeks ago and I just made my first layout tour 2 days ago!! Thanks man, and was incredible to meet you!
I am new to soldering and it’s been really frustrating, solder refusing to melt on the tip. Thanks for your advice on cleaning and tinning the tip, it’s much easier now, many thanks.
Good points to ponder. Keeping the tip tinned is key.Been through a few irons and tips over the years. Maintenance is the best insurance for extending the life of your iron!
Thanks so much for your tutorial on tinning and maintaining your soldering iron. I am retired and into model railroading, now. I have never soldered before and just now learning about how to solder and maintaining the soldering iron. Not sure where you get that cleaning solution you dip your iron in to but, I am going to try and find it. I have learned so much from your tutorials on model railroading. I am in the process of building my HO layout and it is so much fun. Every step in the process is a new adventure for me. I am so passionate about doing everything the best I can and making my layout so realistic looking. Your tutorials have been so helpful. Thanks to guys like you posting these You Tube videos, it has helped me so much or I wouldn't have known about "transitioning" my curves on my layout. You saved me from making a big mistake in laying out my curves.
thanks you for this information. I was struggling to solder a gold jump ring shut but after tinning my solder iron and making sure it is clean it worked.
@@RonsTrainsNThings Gladly! I was not aware that irons should be tinned after every use. I've been doing it only periodically after the initially tinning. I also have used a file to clean irons too. Embarrassingly, my irons have never lasted consistently long either.
I learned to solder back in the 90’s as a kid. My dad taught me. Anyway, he taught me to use a wet sponge. IMO, nothing beats a wet sponge when it comes to cleaning your iron.
I've been soldering for about 55 years, including two decades as a full-time audio-equipment bench tech, and I switched over to the brass wool sponge about 10 years ago. I find the brass wool works even better than the sponge; and some manufacturers claim that the thermal shock of putting a hot tip on a damp sponge creates micro cracks in the iron plating of the tip and causes the tip to oxidize, pit and deteriorate sooner. PS, Ron, you're using the tip cleaning block far too often; they typically contain a harsh alkali such as ammonium chloride and if overused will remove the iron plating from the tip and hasten it's demise.
Really great video sir, thanks for all the info. Only thing I noticed from when I first was trying to understand soldering was everyone was always saying use a damp sponge, not a wet sponge. Why?, was always the question that came to mind. I understand now, it drops the temp significantly, but just something to keep in mind for any future content (there's always someone who honestly wants to know why and how come lol).Thanks a bunch sir, you've explained alot and it was extremely informative! Appreciate it tons!
Wow!!!! Ron...a most helpful video. I just finished watching your "adding a crossover" video and before asking about your cleaning solution prior to the brass cleaner I watched this video on soldering. This video reminded me of seasoning a new cast iron skillet and why its done. I have been doing all the wrong things with my soldering iron for years and now know why the lack of performance from it. I never tinned it to begin with, I used sandpaper on it all the time to clean it and I never put it away correctly. Thank you for sharing this info..I need to pull out the iron, get the products of proper care and see about re furbishing my iron or buy a new tip and start from scratch correctly. Tom
I've honestly never tried to solder before all because of the things you pointed out, got my first iron a couple days ago and I've been worried about plugging it in til this video lol
Ron, I like so many others want to say “thank you “ for this video. Literally I just bought the same exact Weller station that’s in this video. I was about to start soldering this weekend.... I am sure glad that I saw this . Wow you made me Happy 😃!!!!
Perfect timing of this video, I just received my first quality iron. It happens to be the same as your new one. Will follow your tips. Also received my mini files today. Perfect. Thanks yet again Ron
I know that I'm using lousy solder wick, but I decided to go online as my soldering irons weren't working properly. I'm aware of the brass sponges but I just have a regular sponge at the moment. I haven't yet wrapped my cold soldering irons in solder, but I think I'll try that later today. Great video btw
A rarely-used soldering iron is a great case for why tinning after use is important. The longer your iron sits between use the more important it is to keep it tinned and protected.
Where can I give something like a quadrillion THUMBS UP 👍 on this??? Cause this deserves MORE than just a single one. I bought a cheap ol Walmart Soldering iron...Worked for about 2 or 3 times. No matter what I did, I couldn't get solder to to stick to the tip nor could I solder anything without making a mess or just ruining what I'm doing. Ok..Watch some videos, sponge this, scrape that...STILL couldn't get it to work. Ok...It's got to be that the iron sucks. I go and buy a Weller, regular plug in the socket, no controls Iron, comes with 3 tips...MAN...Worked great straight out of the box. UNTIL the 4th or 5th time using it. Nope. Nothing. I try cleaning, I try scraping, sandpaper etc etc. Dawned if I could tin the tip yo save my life. But I read Weller was good....I don't have hundreds of dollars to get fancy dial temp stuff....I want to connect this wire to that one. PERIOD!!! Why should I spend HUNDREDS on something so seemingly easy to do. The package of the Weller doesn't even explain anything at all. Yet, I watch video after video after video of people just ever so slightly touching one wire to another etc and BAM, done. That's the problem with videos these days...."OH, it's so simple....Do this then that, BAMMM!!!! Done.....NONE of those videos go "behind the scenes" to show what that person did to get the iron to work as the video shows. And WTF is up with the cost of a spool of solder costing AS MUCH AS a Steak Dinner for 2 people? It's SOLDER. Its basically CRAP metal formed into a wire structure. $30 per spool just seems to me to be stupid. Oh, and hey...don't breathe the fumes....so now, in order to do simple soldering.....I have to spend $30 on a spool of it, another $20 or so for a fan and filtration just to join 2 wires. I thank You Sir for taking the time and effort to produce this video, it helped explain ALOT. As for the people who bring this stuff to market with ZERO instructions.....I catch you out and about....I'm take you out back and shove my size 13's up your ass.
Acid paste flux provides superior cleaning for soldering, I use it when solder assembling Fast Tracks turnouts but a note of caution, the solder joints must be cleaned to remove acid flux residue. I use denatured alcohol. Thanks Ron for an informative video.
Great tips...lol, Ron. I to got a new soldering station for Christmas and I likely would have just gone ahead and started soldering. Know i know how to properly make my tips last.
Ron this is a great video, especially since i have been making all of the mistakes that have ruined my soldering tips. After watching the video the first time I went to Amazon and bought all of the products that you use, I haven't tried them yet but plan on trying them on Wednesday since w are expecting a heavy snow, and I plan to stay in. Barry
I use plumbers solder paste which is cheap and will last for MANY years.Dip the tip and wipe excess off with a dry rag being very careful not to get burned....This works best for me after a lifetime of frustration with this subject...I also can't believe I now own a solder sucking pen after all these years...lol!!!
I ruined my first tip because I didn't even know you were supposed to maintain and clean them but after I learned to clean the tip with wool+wet sponge and to keep it tinned I've never had issues since and my tips perform great weeks after being opened, unlike my first one that died after a day of use
I'm brand new to soldering and I never did this. I kept wondering why after a few connectors soldered why my tip was black and not transferring heat that good. Thanks for the help!
@@RonsTrainsNThings Yup it made a huge difference!! I never realized that the tip needed a coat of solder but now it works so much better. Thanks again
Yup, anyone would hate soldering with a black, oxidized tip. They will not transfer the heat. Get a new tip, tin it, keep it clean and tinned, and who knows, soldering may become your favorite part of the hobby.
Steve, it's also important to use the right tip for the job. For soldering rails, and most general purpose use, I would use a tip that looks like a small standard screwdriver. For soldering electronic components, get a conical or pointed tip. The right tool for the right job.
Well this explains a lot Ron. I've never heard of this before and could not figure out why my soldering iron took forever to melt the finest size of solder I could buy from Radio Shack. Time to pull them all out and do some tinning. Is this necessary with the soldering guns as well? You know the ones that look like a pistol. I have one of them made by Weller but I have not tinned it either. Thanks for sharing. Keep up the good work.
Hi, Roland. I believe that cleaning and tinning your tips will make your soldering a much more enjoyable and less frustrating experience. Yes, you should tin the tip on soldering guns as well. Thanks for your comment.
I do the winding solder around a new tip thing, I use up old bits of solder I no longer use to do it. Maintenance is the key, and before you run of to celebrate completing one of those cheap SMD practice boards, tin you tip. Or is it just me that goes into celebration mode? I actually keep my boards to monitor my improvement… I'll go back to my sad little corner now. I’ve seen elsewhere that the tip tinning cleaner should be used before leaving your iron to cool as it works better. I’ve always used it as you do until now and my Hakko T18-D16 must be a year old and looks like new. I use the Weller brass sponge as it’s finer and seems to clean better, I heard it actually has more/better flux in it. I didn’t even know they have flux in them until then.
Ron, I have had the Weller WLC100 soldering station for some time now. I love mine, and I know you will grow to love yours as well. Your video is the first time I have heard of the wrap the tip in solder technique. I'll have to give that a try. That brass sponge looks interesting, as well. I enjoy your videos a lot!
This is the best video I have ever watched on soldering. You did an excellent job of explaining the process. I really learned something today. Thank you, also, have you ever used "solder glue"? I am trying it out on my new layout and it seems to be working very well.
Hi, David. Thank you very much. As for solder glue, no I have not used it. I'm anxious to know how it conducts electricity and how it holds up over time.
At 14:30, the primary reason solder won't tin the rear of the tip is because it's plated with chrome or something other metal that resists solder. You could clean the black oxidation off, but that section of the shank still won't accept solder; it's not supposed to! The tip is plated with iron which will allow solder to tin it but won't easily be dissolved by the hot solder and flux. Underneath the plating, the best quality tips are copper; only the pointy end of the tip should be strongly attracted to a magnet, becahse of the iron plating.
very helpful video! i just have one question, so after you clean it with the brass sponge between each item you solder, do you tin it again as well? or do you just tin it once in the beginning, and once at the end before you put it away?
I use to work in field service working on computer systems. The soldering iron I use had a tip with only a 1/4 to 5/16 coating on the end for solder. I was also taught only to solder with the very tip of the soldering iron. Tip: I carried my soldering iron in my portable tool bag. So, I wouldn't have to wait for it to cool down or take the chance of burning something on the customer site seeing I didn't have a stand, I carried a wad of aluminum foil about the size of a large hot dog that I used as a sleeve around the tip to not only cover, but to also dissipate the heat real quick. I just slip the soldering iron in the wadded up sleeve and throw it in my tool bag. Another side effect of the aluminum foil was the cleaning action it performed as I put it in the sleeve.
Hi, great video! I’ve been apparently oxidizing my tips too often and finally did some youtubing. 😅 This is great. What is the name of your tip cleaning paste? Also do you have a favorite lead free solder wire? Thanks!
I'm liking the whole video I'm still watching it now but it definitely helps me out knowing what to do to keep my tip of my iron like it needs to be cuz the thing go through them my last layout I went through 7 ironsso I wish this video is out long time ago
After watching your video I learned something new can I appreciate that like I said in the last message I want to 7 soldering iron how wishes video came out a long time ago it would have saved me a lot of money and I need to get some flux and some steel wool before I use my new one starts ordering attract together and wires
I never have had much luck trying to tin a tip by heating it just with its own iron. I almost always need to use a second soldering-iron to melt the solder onto the freshly-cleaned tip (I don't know why you say not to use sandpaper or a wire brush to clean the copper tip; that's a necessary step for the solder to adhere properly, especially for a used tip that's already oxidized or soiled with baked-on contaminants. I find that a Lola stainless-steel-mesh scrubbie-pad works best of all, though, for gently removing even very hard or deeply-embedded oxides and deposits, without taking off too much of the tip's base-metal; a little wet-paste Comet cleanser can be a helpful "persuader" for scouring off really "stubborn" build-up) of the first iron. The solder-coiled-around-the-tip method you showed does work sometimes, but you will want to add a thick dabbing of paste-flux to both the tip and the solder prior to heating it, so that oxidation doesn't form before the tip gets hot enough to melt the solder onto itself; the flux should be applied even if you're using rosin-core solder, too, since the solder would have to be heated hot enough to melt (and this temperature would be too hot for oxidation not to form on the bare-copper tip) before the flux inside could touch the tip and stop the new oxidization.
For the last part of your comment about the solder-coiled-around-tip method and the thick dabbing of flux: I am using Novacan's old master's stained glass flux and lead free solder (jewelry making). Can I use this liquid flux on the tip, could the solder, then heat? or is that a big no no
@@BiologicalTableSalt I have always used just regular paste flux, so I am unfamiliar with the liquid type. But in any case, as I said, I have had much better results by using a second iron to heat the first iron's tip when re-tinning, rather than just heating up the iron whose tip I'm trying to tin, and having it oxidize before it gets hot enough to melt the solder. Really, though, if you just get a container of regular paste flux to use for tinning your tips and other general-purpose soldering, this would likely be the best solution, and it's not even very costly, either --- a 1-or-2-ounce container is only a few bucks at a hardware store or eBay, and if you usually just do occasional small soldering-tasks like I do, that container should last you several years.
Good video. Thanks for making it. I never had any formal soldering class/education and it shows. Am I right in understanding that a higher wattage soldering iron allows you to get a joint hotter, quicker so as not to melt/damage nearby parts/circuits? I'm thinking a higher wattage iron would be best for soldering track segments without heating plastic rail ties too much. Also, if you're able, you might consider raising the Audio Output level of videos like this one. I have the volume on my laptop all the way up, but was still wanting the video to play louder.
Thanks for the sound feedback. As for wattage, you want to strike a balance between heating your work quickly and getting it too hot. For N scale rails I use a 30 watt iron. For fine electronics I use about 10 watts--it just doesn't take much to get them hot and high heat can quickly damage surrounding parts.
hi ron this is my first time commenting on your videos that I'm a big fan of. ive noticed you are using radio shack solder that I also use. unfortunately radio shack has closed in my area a great loss to me and I'm sure to a lot of other modelers
Hi, Bill. Radio Shack is out of business now entirely, a fact about which I have mixed feelings. This roll of solder is a spare that I had stocked up on a few years ago and recently opened.
Great info thanks so much! Just learning and getting frustrated already. First two attempts didn't go so well. Started with old iron and old solder given to me. The solder job ended up cloudy white and also seen some of it was discolored on the spool. My question is does solder go bad when it gets old?
I don't think solder goes bad, but if it is greenish you probably have an acid core solder. You may want to buy some rosin core solder to use. Also, if you have an old iron and the tip is black, you may want to investin a new tip.
I understand that the upper part of the tip isn't used for soldering so it doesn't need to be perfect. I was hoping to see an old tip made usable. I suppose I'll just repeat the steps you show & hope that it works for me.
Tips are consumable, and they reach a point of no return. If you cannot get solder to stick it is time to replace it. It isn't going to transfer heat at that point.
I posted a review and teardown of a $45 Harbor Freight soldering station on my channel, comparing it directly to this same Weller; the HF unit is far superior and costs about $20 less. The tips that come with the Harbor Freight unit aren't very good (neither are the Weller-supplied tips), but they're of the fairly common 900M series and better replacement tips are available.
Overall good, but... i hope your "cleaning solution" isn't the tip activator xD. That's a procedure you should do once every 6/12 or even more months, when your tip is in really bad shape. It usually has acids in it, and if you keep "cleaning" with it, you won't have a tip, cause it would be eaten away by it. A thing i do before putting away my soldering iron (a pinecil, so... better not ruin my tips xD), is to put the tin, to a point it creates a sphere, then hold it there till the tip is cold enough, then drop the sphere. This will make sure the tip has a uniform layer of tin on it, fresh and clean, and the flux to protect even more. Also, as you said on the video, don't be scared of the brown color of the tip, it's usually flux that is burnt away, and can actually be helpful to keep oxidation away, make sure you don't use acid based flux, else you ruin your tip if you don't clean it real good.
Hi, many years ago I met a man who coated the tips of his soldering iron with a silver plating, they were always shining, no oxidation. What do you think about it ?
Thanks so much for the video but I just spent several hours following your instructions to the letter with 2 separate soldering irons but have been unsuccessful. Both soldering irons remain black and the solder simply balls up and falls off.
If they are that black and burned it is time for new tips. This extends the life of good tips, but ultimately tips are consumable and need to be replaced from time to time.
I have a really important question, i bought flux and it says its self-cleaning flux, water soluble, but it is white so can i use this to clean my iron
I had one of those Orange Wellers with the LEDs. The tip was destroyed in about 3 hours of use. But it was 40w and way too hot. You're fighting a losing battle trying to maintain the tip on a soldering iron that has no temperature control or power control. They simply run the tips much too hot. My 25w pencil will idle in the holder at over 450C. Contrast that with a "proper" temperature of 350C or less (320 is about ideal). I can burn a ton of solder trying to keep the scorching pencil tinned but it's a struggle. I *strongly* recommend that if you don't buy a soldering tool with at least a little bit of power control or adjustable temperature, at least get some means of turning it off and on when it's not in use. A soldering iron just sitting in the holder at full heat is one that is destroying its tip. How to solve this problem? The easiest way is unplug it immediately after use and plug it in just before use. Don't let it sit and cook at full temperature. The best solution IMHO is never buy the cheapest soldering setup. Get at least one with a temperature setting. Even a crude control is far better than none at all. You can make a variable power setup using a dimmer switch and a receptacle with basic home wiring parts from your local improvement store. Or you can get a momentary footswitch that works just like plugging and unplugging. Step on the switch to turn on your iron and remove your foot to unplug. They are $30 and super useful. Ultimately, I bought a proper station with actual temperature control in degrees. All of my soldering frustrations went away when I bought a station with actual temperature setting and a few different tips to give me the right shape for the task.
Hi Ron, I’v never thought that I would ever have to use a solder iron, however as a musician I do pay a guitar tech to do maintenance when needed on my guitars, it’s not cheap. After watching your video you have given me the confidence to start learning to solder. Thanks for your tutorial on maintenance of the solder iron, that’s what I call starting from the beginning. Subscribed 👍🏻👍🏻
Good luck! I wish you the best.
Ron, I started Soldering with Silver solder and an Acetylene Torch, soldering pieces of Copper together. I did this fresh out of High School. This was my Job just after graduation at my Fathers Stampings company. Not anything to do with the small electronics soldering we do now. My Dad worked with me when I first started doing this job and he told me the most important thing to know about soldering is that solder flows to the heat! This information has always helped me to do a good job in soldering. Knowing that it is the heat that does the work!
Great point. Thanks. 👍🏼
Good information thanks, I’m just starting to use a soldering iron, so I’m open for useful information at all times thanks 👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
Not a train guy, but im getting into soldering a custom keyboard and this was a lifesaver. 10/10
I recently replaced my old soldering iron with a new one and coincidentally came across your video. I'm glad I watched it before using my new soldering iron. After following your advice, my new soldering iron still looks brand new, unlike my first one after its initial use. Thanks for making this very useful video!
I've watched a lot of soldering iron care vids and i always learn something new. People really love their irons!
Thank you ,im a beginner,and no one tells you to tin the soldering iron tips,,,i just cleaned with soldering tip tinning and then flux, and the brass wool, now when it cools i will tin before hand, very good tips and advice ,Very Much appreciated
Yes, I had to learn the hard way too, but there are some good soldering videos on RUclips now that are a big help.
I always had trouble with this in the beginning. I also learned a lot from this video, especially on how to maintain an older soldering iron
I am so glad that you produced this video. I have had many times tried to determine the reason why my soldering task always had a hard time melting solder in order to establish a connection to my track. Immediately following your video, I went and carried out the cleaning of my soldering iron, and yes it was black. It now is super shiny! THX
You will enjoy using that clean and tinned soldering iron much more. Let me know how that works next time you use it. I think the difference will seem almost miraculous.
Thank you Ron for reminding me of things I knew but had foregotten over the years. As my horoscope tells me I' ve got a lot of soldering on my horizon. I needed this video. Cheers, Chris Perry.
Thanks. Purchased all the bits you recommended and I've just spent several hours happily soldering away. Great results and a soldering iron stored away ready for the next time. Great video. Much appreciated.
Wow... I don't know the first thing about soldering but "know enough" to know that "oxidation is bad". I had no idea at all that oxidation itself was such a terrible conductor of heat. Great demo!! and thanks.
Complete newbie to soldering, thank you for such a clear explanation of tinning and tip care. Will try this out when my new soldering iron arrives.
Hey Ron!
I was the kid you met at National last (2018) year!
Just wanted to say that you have inspired me to start a channel, it launched 2 weeks ago and I just made my first layout tour 2 days ago!!
Thanks man, and was incredible to meet you!
I remember. I still tease Lionel Strang about being my camera man. Lol. This is exciting. I'm going to go check out your channel now.
I am new to soldering and it’s been really frustrating, solder refusing to melt on the tip.
Thanks for your advice on cleaning and tinning the tip, it’s much easier now, many thanks.
I'm glad you found it helpful.
I've been involved with soldering for a long time including Mil Spec & aerospace.
This is all great advice. Thanks Ron!
Thanks. Some disagree, but I guess we all have our ways of doing things.
Good points to ponder. Keeping the tip tinned is key.Been through a few irons and tips over the years. Maintenance is the best insurance for extending the life of your iron!
Thanks so much for your tutorial on tinning and maintaining your soldering iron. I am retired and into model railroading, now. I have never soldered before and just now learning about how to solder and maintaining the soldering iron. Not sure where you get that cleaning solution you dip your iron in to but, I am going to try and find it. I have learned so much from your tutorials on model railroading. I am in the process of building my HO layout and it is so much fun. Every step in the process is a new adventure for me. I am so passionate about doing everything the best I can and making my layout so realistic looking. Your tutorials have been so helpful. Thanks to guys like you posting these You Tube videos, it has helped me so much or I wouldn't have known about "transitioning" my curves on my layout. You saved me from making a big mistake in laying out my curves.
thanks you for this information. I was struggling to solder a gold jump ring shut but after tinning my solder iron and making sure it is clean it worked.
I've been soldering for nearly 20 years and I learned some good things from this video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks for telling me so. Can you tell me what was most helpful to you?
@@RonsTrainsNThings Gladly! I was not aware that irons should be tinned after every use. I've been doing it only periodically after the initially tinning. I also have used a file to clean irons too. Embarrassingly, my irons have never lasted consistently long either.
I learned to solder back in the 90’s as a kid. My dad taught me. Anyway, he taught me to use a wet sponge. IMO, nothing beats a wet sponge when it comes to cleaning your iron.
A wet sponge works great. The tinning solution just gives a bit of extra boost to the cleaning and coats the tip in solder.
I've been soldering for about 55 years, including two decades as a full-time audio-equipment bench tech, and I switched over to the brass wool sponge about 10 years ago. I find the brass wool works even better than the sponge; and some manufacturers claim that the thermal shock of putting a hot tip on a damp sponge creates micro cracks in the iron plating of the tip and causes the tip to oxidize, pit and deteriorate sooner. PS, Ron, you're using the tip cleaning block far too often; they typically contain a harsh alkali such as ammonium chloride and if overused will remove the iron plating from the tip and hasten it's demise.
Really great video sir, thanks for all the info. Only thing I noticed from when I first was trying to understand soldering was everyone was always saying use a damp sponge, not a wet sponge. Why?, was always the question that came to mind. I understand now, it drops the temp significantly, but just something to keep in mind for any future content (there's always someone who honestly wants to know why and how come lol).Thanks a bunch sir, you've explained alot and it was extremely informative! Appreciate it tons!
Wow!!!! Ron...a most helpful video. I just finished watching your "adding a crossover" video and before asking about your cleaning solution prior to the brass cleaner I watched this video on soldering. This video reminded me of seasoning a new cast iron skillet and why its done. I have been doing all the wrong things with my soldering iron for years and now know why the lack of performance from it. I never tinned it to begin with, I used sandpaper on it all the time to clean it and I never put it away correctly. Thank you for sharing this info..I need to pull out the iron, get the products of proper care and see about re furbishing my iron or buy a new tip and start from scratch correctly. Tom
Glad to help Tom. I think you will find much better results and longer life from your soldering tips going forward.
I've honestly never tried to solder before all because of the things you pointed out, got my first iron a couple days ago and I've been worried about plugging it in til this video lol
Good teaching video. Thanks, now I 'm going to tin my soldering Iron. Thanks again.
I'm just getting started in soldering and Model Railroading and this/your video helped me tremendously ! Thanks Ron
See you down the road!
Ron, I like so many others want to say “thank you “ for this video. Literally I just bought the same exact Weller station that’s in this video. I was about to start soldering this weekend.... I am sure glad that I saw this . Wow you made me Happy 😃!!!!
Perfect timing of this video, I just received my first quality iron. It happens to be the same as your new one. Will follow your tips. Also received my mini files today. Perfect. Thanks yet again Ron
That is awesome. I know you will enjoy working with them...if you keep that new iron in good shape. LOL.
Thank you. I really appreciate your professional presentation and terrifically useful information.
Great tutorial! My soldering tips oxidized today and I had to figure out how to clean it.
Thank you very much for this great explanation. I'm new to soldering and this helps a lot.
I've been soldering circuits since 2007 and I only recently started learning about how to take care of soldering tips. Thanks for the tutorial.
Glad to be of help.
Thanks Ron!
I’m novice and now I know why my brand new tip has gone so fast(~50 connections 😊).
Very helpful! Thanks again!
I know that I'm using lousy solder wick, but I decided to go online as my soldering irons weren't working properly. I'm aware of the brass sponges but I just have a regular sponge at the moment. I haven't yet wrapped my cold soldering irons in solder, but I think I'll try that later today. Great video btw
Hi Ron this is a great video for me as I got a new soldering iron for use on radio control cars and now for model trains hope it last a long time
You have been very thourough . You provided a lot of value to my life.
Very good video. I rarely use a soldering iron but this information may keep my 15 year old iron in good working condition. Thanks!
A rarely-used soldering iron is a great case for why tinning after use is important. The longer your iron sits between use the more important it is to keep it tinned and protected.
Good Video!! Been soldering for a long time have always been a big fan of Hakko stations, their tips are phenomenal at holding a good tin.
Great detailed video and very direct and to the point! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Where can I give something like a quadrillion THUMBS UP 👍 on this??? Cause this deserves MORE than just a single one.
I bought a cheap ol Walmart Soldering iron...Worked for about 2 or 3 times. No matter what I did, I couldn't get solder to to stick to the tip nor could I solder anything without making a mess or just ruining what I'm doing.
Ok..Watch some videos, sponge this, scrape that...STILL couldn't get it to work.
Ok...It's got to be that the iron sucks.
I go and buy a Weller, regular plug in the socket, no controls Iron, comes with 3 tips...MAN...Worked great straight out of the box. UNTIL the 4th or 5th time using it. Nope. Nothing. I try cleaning, I try scraping, sandpaper etc etc. Dawned if I could tin the tip yo save my life.
But I read Weller was good....I don't have hundreds of dollars to get fancy dial temp stuff....I want to connect this wire to that one. PERIOD!!! Why should I spend HUNDREDS on something so seemingly easy to do.
The package of the Weller doesn't even explain anything at all.
Yet, I watch video after video after video of people just ever so slightly touching one wire to another etc and BAM, done.
That's the problem with videos these days...."OH, it's so simple....Do this then that, BAMMM!!!! Done.....NONE of those videos go "behind the scenes" to show what that person did to get the iron to work as the video shows.
And WTF is up with the cost of a spool of solder costing AS MUCH AS a Steak Dinner for 2 people?
It's SOLDER. Its basically CRAP metal formed into a wire structure. $30 per spool just seems to me to be stupid. Oh, and hey...don't breathe the fumes....so now, in order to do simple soldering.....I have to spend $30 on a spool of it, another $20 or so for a fan and filtration just to join 2 wires.
I thank You Sir for taking the time and effort to produce this video, it helped explain ALOT.
As for the people who bring this stuff to market with ZERO instructions.....I catch you out and about....I'm take you out back and shove my size 13's up your ass.
Thanks Ron, I NEEDED that! I keep ruining tips, so now I will try your methods and see if I can keep the iron running hot.
Glad you found the video helpful.
Great advise. Have used the brass sponge cleaner for years.
Acid paste flux provides superior cleaning for soldering, I use it when solder assembling Fast Tracks turnouts but a note of caution, the solder joints must be cleaned to remove acid flux residue. I use denatured alcohol. Thanks Ron for an informative video.
That is true--subject of another video. Thanks.
Helpful info for sure! Right on Ron, thanks!! 👍
Thanks for the informative video, Ron. My poor neglected soldering iron will appreciate it too!
This was great information I was clueless about. Thanks!
Had to sub, just because he uses Weller. The 40watt led is my favorite iron!
Thanks and welcome to the chnnel.
Great tips...lol, Ron. I to got a new soldering station for Christmas and I likely would have just gone ahead and started soldering. Know i know how to properly make my tips last.
Ron this is a great video, especially since i have been making all of the mistakes that have ruined my soldering tips. After watching the video the first time I went to Amazon and bought all of the products that you use, I haven't tried them yet but plan on trying them on Wednesday since w are expecting a heavy snow, and I plan to stay in. Barry
Hey, Barry. I'm curious to know how things went.
Nice presentation. Thank you.
I use plumbers solder paste which is cheap and will last for MANY years.Dip the tip and wipe excess off with a dry rag being very careful not to get burned....This works best for me after a lifetime of frustration with this subject...I also can't believe I now own a solder sucking pen after all these years...lol!!!
I ruined my first tip because I didn't even know you were supposed to maintain and clean them but after I learned to clean the tip with wool+wet sponge and to keep it tinned I've never had issues since and my tips perform great weeks after being opened, unlike my first one that died after a day of use
Thanks! This video was really helpful
I'm brand new to soldering and I never did this. I kept wondering why after a few connectors soldered why my tip was black and not transferring heat that good. Thanks for the help!
Glad to be of help. Have you tried this? How did it affect your iron's performance?
@@RonsTrainsNThings Yup it made a huge difference!! I never realized that the tip needed a coat of solder but now it works so much better. Thanks again
Thank you for sharing a lot of very useful information;PJP
Excellent video Ron! You know how much I hate soldering and I think you just showed me why. My tips are a black and charred as sin lol
Yup, anyone would hate soldering with a black, oxidized tip. They will not transfer the heat. Get a new tip, tin it, keep it clean and tinned, and who knows, soldering may become your favorite part of the hobby.
Steve, it's also important to use the right tip for the job. For soldering rails, and most general purpose use, I would use a tip that looks like a small standard screwdriver. For soldering electronic components, get a conical or pointed tip. The right tool for the right job.
Well this explains a lot Ron. I've never heard of this before and could not figure out why my soldering iron took forever to melt the finest size of solder I could buy from Radio Shack. Time to pull them all out and do some tinning. Is this necessary with the soldering guns as well? You know the ones that look like a pistol. I have one of them made by Weller but I have not tinned it either. Thanks for sharing. Keep up the good work.
Hi, Roland. I believe that cleaning and tinning your tips will make your soldering a much more enjoyable and less frustrating experience. Yes, you should tin the tip on soldering guns as well. Thanks for your comment.
I do the winding solder around a new tip thing, I use up old bits of solder I no longer use to do it. Maintenance is the key, and before you run of to celebrate completing one of those cheap SMD practice boards, tin you tip. Or is it just me that goes into celebration mode? I actually keep my boards to monitor my improvement… I'll go back to my sad little corner now.
I’ve seen elsewhere that the tip tinning cleaner should be used before leaving your iron to cool as it works better. I’ve always used it as you do until now and my Hakko T18-D16 must be a year old and looks like new.
I use the Weller brass sponge as it’s finer and seems to clean better, I heard it actually has more/better flux in it. I didn’t even know they have flux in them until then.
Good hits Ron, thanks for sharing....Jack
Ron, I have had the Weller WLC100 soldering station for some time now. I love mine, and I know you will grow to love yours as well. Your video is the first time I have heard of the wrap the tip in solder technique. I'll have to give that a try. That brass sponge looks interesting, as well. I enjoy your videos a lot!
Thank you and I'm glad you found the tips helpful.
Great information Ron. I'm fairly new to soldering.- Scorpio
These tips will make it a much more enjoyable and less frustrating task.
This is the best video I have ever watched on soldering. You did an excellent job of explaining the process. I really learned something today. Thank you, also, have you ever used "solder glue"? I am trying it out on my new layout and it seems to be working very well.
Hi, David. Thank you very much. As for solder glue, no I have not used it. I'm anxious to know how it conducts electricity and how it holds up over time.
At 14:30, the primary reason solder won't tin the rear of the tip is because it's plated with chrome or something other metal that resists solder. You could clean the black oxidation off, but that section of the shank still won't accept solder; it's not supposed to! The tip is plated with iron which will allow solder to tin it but won't easily be dissolved by the hot solder and flux. Underneath the plating, the best quality tips are copper; only the pointy end of the tip should be strongly attracted to a magnet, becahse of the iron plating.
Thanks Ron great videos
Good Information Ron
Hey, Big Bill. Thanks, and thanks for "stopping by." Good to see you here as always.
Great video Ron. I better do some modifications to my flux capacitor!
LOL. We all need one of those.
Damn, already took sandpaper to my tip but it’s ok cause I literally have new ones coming in the mail today lol. Now I know.
Great video Ron. Much better than Eric’s explanation. :) -Mark
I’ve never used paste or the cleaner although I do have them. I just use a brass sponge before and after soldering a component.
Great Tips Ron...thank you Tom
nice video very handy to watch :)
Well, I learned something! (shamefully hides steel brush) Thanks Ron!
Great video
Thanks that was most helpful
very helpful video! i just have one question, so after you clean it with the brass sponge between each item you solder, do you tin it again as well? or do you just tin it once in the beginning, and once at the end before you put it away?
I use to work in field service working on computer systems. The soldering iron I use had a tip with only a 1/4 to 5/16 coating on the end for solder. I was also taught only to solder with the very tip of the soldering iron.
Tip: I carried my soldering iron in my portable tool bag. So, I wouldn't have to wait for it to cool down or take the chance of burning something on the customer site seeing I didn't have a stand, I carried a wad of aluminum foil about the size of a large hot dog that I used as a sleeve around the tip to not only cover, but to also dissipate the heat real quick. I just slip the soldering iron in the wadded up sleeve and throw it in my tool bag. Another side effect of the aluminum foil was the cleaning action it performed as I put it in the sleeve.
Hi, Earl. Good tip. Thanks.
Thanks for the great tips.
One thing I’ve gained from this video is you LOOOVVVVVEEEEE THE TIP.
That’s what she said
Great video!
Thank you
Nice 👍
Hi, great video! I’ve been apparently oxidizing my tips too often and finally did some youtubing. 😅 This is great. What is the name of your tip cleaning paste? Also do you have a favorite lead free solder wire? Thanks!
Nice!
Great how to video
Thanks. Was the re something in particular that you found helpful?
I'm liking the whole video I'm still watching it now but it definitely helps me out knowing what to do to keep my tip of my iron like it needs to be cuz the thing go through them my last layout I went through 7 ironsso I wish this video is out long time ago
After watching your video I learned something new can I appreciate that like I said in the last message I want to 7 soldering iron how wishes video came out a long time ago it would have saved me a lot of money and I need to get some flux and some steel wool before I use my new one starts ordering attract together and wires
Hi Ron thanks so much can the 30 watt iron work for the 40watt station if I plug it in
In N scale 30W will do all the track and feeder work easily. It should also be good for HO track also, but I'm not that experienced with HO.
"Just the tip!" - Archer
I never have had much luck trying to tin a tip by heating it just with its own iron. I almost always need to use a second soldering-iron to melt the solder onto the freshly-cleaned tip (I don't know why you say not to use sandpaper or a wire brush to clean the copper tip; that's a necessary step for the solder to adhere properly, especially for a used tip that's already oxidized or soiled with baked-on contaminants. I find that a Lola stainless-steel-mesh scrubbie-pad works best of all, though, for gently removing even very hard or deeply-embedded oxides and deposits, without taking off too much of the tip's base-metal; a little wet-paste Comet cleanser can be a helpful "persuader" for scouring off really "stubborn" build-up) of the first iron. The solder-coiled-around-the-tip method you showed does work sometimes, but you will want to add a thick dabbing of paste-flux to both the tip and the solder prior to heating it, so that oxidation doesn't form before the tip gets hot enough to melt the solder onto itself; the flux should be applied even if you're using rosin-core solder, too, since the solder would have to be heated hot enough to melt (and this temperature would be too hot for oxidation not to form on the bare-copper tip) before the flux inside could touch the tip and stop the new oxidization.
For the last part of your comment about the solder-coiled-around-tip method and the thick dabbing of flux: I am using Novacan's old master's stained glass flux and lead free solder (jewelry making). Can I use this liquid flux on the tip, could the solder, then heat? or is that a big no no
@@BiologicalTableSalt I have always used just regular paste flux, so I am unfamiliar with the liquid type. But in any case, as I said, I have had much better results by using a second iron to heat the first iron's tip when re-tinning, rather than just heating up the iron whose tip I'm trying to tin, and having it oxidize before it gets hot enough to melt the solder. Really, though, if you just get a container of regular paste flux to use for tinning your tips and other general-purpose soldering, this would likely be the best solution, and it's not even very costly, either --- a 1-or-2-ounce container is only a few bucks at a hardware store or eBay, and if you usually just do occasional small soldering-tasks like I do, that container should last you several years.
Good video. Thanks for making it. I never had any formal soldering class/education and it shows. Am I right in understanding that a higher wattage soldering iron allows you to get a joint hotter, quicker so as not to melt/damage nearby parts/circuits? I'm thinking a higher wattage iron would be best for soldering track segments without heating plastic rail ties too much.
Also, if you're able, you might consider raising the Audio Output level of videos like this one. I have the volume on my laptop all the way up, but was still wanting the video to play louder.
Thanks for the sound feedback. As for wattage, you want to strike a balance between heating your work quickly and getting it too hot. For N scale rails I use a 30 watt iron. For fine electronics I use about 10 watts--it just doesn't take much to get them hot and high heat can quickly damage surrounding parts.
hi ron this is my first time commenting on your videos that I'm a big fan of. ive noticed you are using radio shack solder that I also use. unfortunately radio shack has closed in my area a great loss to me and I'm sure to a lot of other modelers
Hi, Bill. Radio Shack is out of business now entirely, a fact about which I have mixed feelings. This roll of solder is a spare that I had stocked up on a few years ago and recently opened.
Great info thanks so much! Just learning and getting frustrated already. First two attempts didn't go so well. Started with old iron and old solder given to me. The solder job ended up cloudy white and also seen some of it was discolored on the spool. My question is does solder go bad when it gets old?
I don't think solder goes bad, but if it is greenish you probably have an acid core solder. You may want to buy some rosin core solder to use. Also, if you have an old iron and the tip is black, you may want to investin a new tip.
What's your opinion on using the 'Ammonia Block ?'
Only as a last resort. It is abrasive and is hard on a good tip.
I understand that the upper part of the tip isn't used for soldering so it doesn't need to be perfect. I was hoping to see an old tip made usable. I suppose I'll just repeat the steps you show & hope that it works for me.
Tips are consumable, and they reach a point of no return. If you cannot get solder to stick it is time to replace it. It isn't going to transfer heat at that point.
I posted a review and teardown of a $45 Harbor Freight soldering station on my channel, comparing it directly to this same Weller; the HF unit is far superior and costs about $20 less. The tips that come with the Harbor Freight unit aren't very good (neither are the Weller-supplied tips), but they're of the fairly common 900M series and better replacement tips are available.
Overall good, but... i hope your "cleaning solution" isn't the tip activator xD. That's a procedure you should do once every 6/12 or even more months, when your tip is in really bad shape. It usually has acids in it, and if you keep "cleaning" with it, you won't have a tip, cause it would be eaten away by it.
A thing i do before putting away my soldering iron (a pinecil, so... better not ruin my tips xD), is to put the tin, to a point it creates a sphere, then hold it there till the tip is cold enough, then drop the sphere. This will make sure the tip has a uniform layer of tin on it, fresh and clean, and the flux to protect even more. Also, as you said on the video, don't be scared of the brown color of the tip, it's usually flux that is burnt away, and can actually be helpful to keep oxidation away, make sure you don't use acid based flux, else you ruin your tip if you don't clean it real good.
Hi, many years ago I met a man who coated the tips of his soldering iron with a silver plating, they were always shining, no oxidation. What do you think about it ?
will this work on replaceable tips?
What temperature do you use for a variable soldering station. A 895d for example
Thanks so much for the video but I just spent several hours following your instructions to the letter with 2 separate soldering irons but have been unsuccessful.
Both soldering irons remain black and the solder simply balls up and falls off.
If they are that black and burned it is time for new tips. This extends the life of good tips, but ultimately tips are consumable and need to be replaced from time to time.
Are you using lead free solder or rosin core solder to tin the tip
I used rosin core, but either will work.
I have a really important question, i bought flux and it says its self-cleaning flux, water soluble, but it is white so can i use this to clean my iron
Where is the link to obtaining the brass sponge and container?
amzn.to/3AskTdy
I had one of those Orange Wellers with the LEDs. The tip was destroyed in about 3 hours of use. But it was 40w and way too hot. You're fighting a losing battle trying to maintain the tip on a soldering iron that has no temperature control or power control. They simply run the tips much too hot. My 25w pencil will idle in the holder at over 450C. Contrast that with a "proper" temperature of 350C or less (320 is about ideal). I can burn a ton of solder trying to keep the scorching pencil tinned but it's a struggle. I *strongly* recommend that if you don't buy a soldering tool with at least a little bit of power control or adjustable temperature, at least get some means of turning it off and on when it's not in use. A soldering iron just sitting in the holder at full heat is one that is destroying its tip. How to solve this problem? The easiest way is unplug it immediately after use and plug it in just before use. Don't let it sit and cook at full temperature.
The best solution IMHO is never buy the cheapest soldering setup. Get at least one with a temperature setting. Even a crude control is far better than none at all. You can make a variable power setup using a dimmer switch and a receptacle with basic home wiring parts from your local improvement store. Or you can get a momentary footswitch that works just like plugging and unplugging. Step on the switch to turn on your iron and remove your foot to unplug. They are $30 and super useful.
Ultimately, I bought a proper station with actual temperature control in degrees. All of my soldering frustrations went away when I bought a station with actual temperature setting and a few different tips to give me the right shape for the task.